Omg i never knew it was right there omg i paid 200 dollar's to get it done.... I CAN DO IT MYSELF.... this was verrrrrry helpful i have a van in omg it gets hot in there thank you so much will be doing this...
As a woman who likes to try to do it on her own THANK YOU! I have health conditions and heat makes them worse I've been without ac in my van that is a 2008 for a whole month and I'm dying.
As I recall, your supposed to hook it up to the low side. Usually the letter L is on the cap. The other connection is a high side which you do not want to use for this procedure.
That is a great video. No shaky camera and horrible sound; you must have a clip mike because I could clearly hear you over the engine. I would have like to have seen the following: 1. What do the colours on the gauge mean? 2. If you over-fill can you release refrigerant to a good level? 3. For an average refill with this kind of gauge and hose what is the time in emptying one can? 4. How to shut off a fill of a partially empty can once the gauge shows good. I know there's only so much you can put into a basic video but I think answering the above points would be useful for an already incredibly handy video.
I thought the van was supposed to be on before connecting it? And yes, shaking the can while you're doing it. I just came to see if I had to start the van before or after :) Thanks!
hi i have a 2000 chrysler T&C and i can not find out how to recharge it i have look and looked on here and can not find something please help me if u can....thanks
I'm working on a 2001 T&C. It doesn't have the connector in the back like that. It has a port in front of the alternator, coming from the AC pump. Then one behind the air filter.
If I would of saw your video before I went to the store I wouldn't waste $59:99 I corrected I saw this bottle at ebay and I 2 no of them for only $28 and that included shipping and receiving
I had to watch this video again before I started to edit my video doing the same thing with Torma on his civic lol it has a ton of views now... wow impressive Dan!
On some ac's you need Refrigerant in the system so the compressor turns on, so give it some time until enough pressure builds up to kick it on. Keep the can upright otherwise you're putting in liquid Refrigerant which can damage the compressor. Once it's almost empty you can turn it upside down to finish emptying it.
Mine was doing that, well clicking on and off, added a little and it kicked on and showed the correct pressure. Then I added roughly 20oz, ice cold now. 🥶 Not saying all cars need that much.
Looks like Dan just put an unpurged hose worth of contamination into his AC system right off the bat. Gently purge the hose with new refrigerant before and while connecting hose to the service fitting so you are not stuffing atmospheric air with moisture into the system!
You would want to refer to your owners manual for the appropriate amount to add as well as account for the temperature at the time you are adding. You can also do a search for your make and model online and find the proper reading taking into account the temperature
Erick D If the pressure is too high a safety kicks in and stops your compressor from running at which point all you will get is hot air from the AC. I believe according to the law, you aren't allowed to just allow the excess refrigerant out into the atmosphere but you could double check on that and decide for yourself
I tried this but right when i turned the valve to puncture the can, the needle went all the way into the red. Everything else was correct, my AC was on full blast, everything connected properly, etc. Not sure what else to do
Same here. But I don't think I had the connector all the way engaged because when I gave up to remove the connector, it just fell off. The needle was just reading the can's internal pressure I believe. I'll try again tomorrow.
My van sounds the exact same. What’s that noise? That a belt or a pulley of some kind? I gotta figure this shit out 😂 I don’t want to pay a mechanic to just look at it
HVAC and market refrigeration tech here: you definitely will be better off if you do charge it while running especially if by charging into the suction. You could charge it as a vapor but it will take longer. But liquid will move faster. You can’t charge to the high side unless you have a recovery machine hooked up in reverse(no avg homeowner is going to have that type of equipment) you can absolutely charge R-134a as a liquid into the suction of your cars A/C compressor. These systems are designed to get a certain amount of vapor superheated before if comes back to the compressor superheat is the threshold a vapor has been heated PAST its saturation temp. (Fancy way of saying the system has been engineered with a certain margin of safety built in to protect components) You can charge liquid into the suction but only charge liquid while the compressor is running. Reason being the compressor has valves and both shut when compressor isn’t running. If you charge liquid into the suction line while the compressor is off you will just fill that pipe with liquid and the second the compressor kicks on it will get a full Column of liquid and bust valves and be virtually useless as it cannot compress liquid. However, if the compressor is running the suction gas coming back will be superheated by about 10-even as much as 30 degrees sometimes this means if you just lightly “crack that valve on the new refrigerant can open, as soon as that liquid refrigerant enters the suction line it will start absorbing the excess heat of the existing refrigerant in the system and will be all vapor by the time it gets to the compressor(almost instant but not quite) don’t open it up full bore by any means but charging liquid by “metering it” through the suction while the system is running is a standard operating procedure in the A/C and refrigeration world. Automotive A/C is a little bit different here and there so not all of my numbers will be 100% on the money but the basic methods for charging, recovery and evacuation are all the same.
IT'S NOT A VERY GOOD GAUGE. IT NEEDS AN AMBIENT TEMP SCALE. NEEDS DIFF. PSI'S AT DIFF. TEMPS. IN AZ THATS A GOOD WAY TO OVER CHARGE AND RUIN YOUR AC. EXAMPLE: YOU FILL TO CORRECT PRESSURE AT 70 DEGREES AT 7AM THEN AT 4PM IT HITS A 110+ THE ADDED EXPANSION WILL PUT YOU WAY INTO THE RED. SO AMAZON MAY CHEAPER BUT THAT GAUGE IS USELESS HERE
Rick Corey Thanks for the comment. You are correct that temperature affects the pressure. Based on the specs of your vehicle and the current temperature you can calculate the appropriate pressure. This particular gauge does provide the pressure around the outside edge so you should be able to use it in AZ with a little bit of math. They do make gauges, however, that allow you to dial in the currrent temperature that provide you the proper range based on that temperature.
Can someone please help me I can not for the life of me find out where mine is under my hood I can’t find the hose that has the caps on it that you hook your Freon to
Question for you Dan, if you have less then 10,000 views now, there will be no adds in front of your video Nice idea for a movie buddy, I have that kit at my shop from when i did my uncles grand prix. when i was working at Regency Collision years ago I also had my ODP card, so i was the guy that had to fill or recover all the Freon in the condensers from any front end collision that needed it... not to mention all the paper work and tagging them.
This is a piss poor idea. I am an ase master tech with 20 years under my belt. Doing a recharge this way is highly inaccurate. You do not use pressure to fill an ac system you use weight there is a tag somewhere under the hood with the specification on it. Plus you should run a complete vaccume on the system first. You can have the right pressure in the system with oxygen contamination and not have enough refrigerant in the system. Which all can cause expensive damage to the ac compressor and or the receiver driver. Of all the DIY things ac is not one that should done at home there is a reason shops pay $5000 dollars for a good ac machine.
I partially agree and largely don't. For the older car market with slow AC leaks /as was described/ this method works well. Not everyone has $290-$750 for a vacuum purge AC service. And that's /if/ you can find a reliable shop. I am no master technician but I have recharged AC (fairly) reliably with this method for years. But some of your observations are correct. But it's not "piss poor".
AC Stop Leak Results: ruclips.net/video/MeQ0ekV29-U/видео.html
Omg i never knew it was right there omg i paid 200 dollar's to get it done.... I CAN DO IT MYSELF.... this was verrrrrry helpful i have a van in omg it gets hot in there thank you so much will be doing this...
As a woman who likes to try to do it on her own THANK YOU! I have health conditions and heat makes them worse I've been without ac in my van that is a 2008 for a whole month and I'm dying.
Amazing video. Living in Florida, I definitely needed to keep up with my ac without it costing an arm and a leg
Love the air raid siren 🚨
As I recall, your supposed to hook it up to the low side. Usually the letter L is on the cap. The other connection is a high side which you do not want to use for this procedure.
Thanks for the video, very helpful
Thank you! this worked on my Wife's 2013 T&C
Thank you so much!! Now to make sure I order the correct refrigerant.
Thank you so much! I was able to get our 09 CT&C AC nice and cold again. I'll go online to order another can of refrigerant. I do have a gauge.
That is a great video. No shaky camera and horrible sound; you must have a clip mike because I could clearly hear you over the engine.
I would have like to have seen the following:
1. What do the colours on the gauge mean?
2. If you over-fill can you release refrigerant to a good level?
3. For an average refill with this kind of gauge and hose what is the time in emptying one can?
4. How to shut off a fill of a partially empty can once the gauge shows good.
I know there's only so much you can put into a basic video but I think answering the above points would be useful for an already incredibly handy video.
Thanks help me alot 👍🏻
Great video Dan! Very helpful and appreciated.
I thought the van was supposed to be on before connecting it? And yes, shaking the can while you're doing it. I just came to see if I had to start the van before or after :) Thanks!
Thank you for the video, really helpful!
thank you. very helpful. Do you know if the gauge and freon would work for the 2003 town and country?
Haha the ending was pretty sick
Did you open the valve all the way when adding refrigerant
I have a 2006 (with the 3.8L) and the low port is up front, the radiator next to the alternator.
hi i have a 2000 chrysler T&C and i can not find out how to recharge it i have look and looked on here and can not find something please help me if u can....thanks
Good video keep them up
Is it normal to hear and feel air coming out that area ? Where the heat and ac go into the housing
I'm working on a 2001 T&C. It doesn't have the connector in the back like that. It has a port in front of the alternator, coming from the AC pump. Then one behind the air filter.
If I would of saw your video before I went to the store I wouldn't waste $59:99 I corrected I saw this bottle at ebay and I 2 no of them for only $28 and that included shipping and receiving
thanks! my van and proble... yea, i went to auto zone and the price was 4 times higher.
Thank u my bro. Very informative video. Great advice. Have a great summer 2019
hey, what reading do you know when its full? :)
So the hose and gauge amazon shows adapter do i need it for the cans because you dont have it on the cans oh where can I buy your cans ??
Thank you so much for this!!!
I put 2 cans in and it’s still not cold should I keep putting more in or take it to a mechanic
I had to watch this video again before I started to edit my video doing the same thing with Torma on his civic lol
it has a ton of views now... wow impressive Dan!
+Shawn Springall Awesome! I know right? 😁
I have a 2008 does it just take the 134A Thanks J.
Hello and thanks for your question. I believe all vehicles after 1993 take R134a so yes your 2008 takes the R134a.
Yeah I have the same year which I know this is three years ago but....lol
Thank you.😀
Thank you
Thank you ! 🙏
Can I use that can if the compressor is not engaging?
I am having the same problem.
On some ac's you need Refrigerant in the system so the compressor turns on, so give it some time until enough pressure builds up to kick it on. Keep the can upright otherwise you're putting in liquid Refrigerant which can damage the compressor. Once it's almost empty you can turn it upside down to finish emptying it.
Mine was doing that, well clicking on and off, added a little and it kicked on and showed the correct pressure. Then I added roughly 20oz, ice cold now. 🥶 Not saying all cars need that much.
Looks like Dan just put an unpurged hose worth of contamination into his AC system right off the bat. Gently purge the hose with new refrigerant before and while connecting hose to the service fitting so you are not stuffing atmospheric air with moisture into the system!
the arrow on the can says can upside down you did it wrong.
Mine doesn't drop down at all as it it's full yet I have steaming hot air. I see my compressor is engaged too so not sure why it isn't blowing cold
Do u need the ac on ?
Jesus Murillo yes
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO HOPEFULLY IT'S THE SAME FOR A 2010😬😬...
Great video! Thank you for showing me something I can do my self n save a few bucks as well. Really helpful..much appreciated!
Wal Mart sells cheap R134a for about 4.88 per 12 ounce can in the automotive department. :)
+Alexander King Good to know! I may need more soon. The leak seems to have gotten bigger. Good ole T & C
Gonna get me 5 cans
Still the best place for 134 just got mine under $4. Just came looking for the port lol much appreciated!
i live in florida. what should be the correct gauge reading??
09 crystler t&c lx
You would want to refer to your owners manual for the appropriate amount to add as well as account for the temperature at the time you are adding. You can also do a search for your make and model online and find the proper reading taking into account the temperature
TheAverageDan thanks. What happens if overcharged?
Erick D If the pressure is too high a safety kicks in and stops your compressor from running at which point all you will get is hot air from the AC. I believe according to the law, you aren't allowed to just allow the excess refrigerant out into the atmosphere but you could double check on that and decide for yourself
Picked me up 134a 12oz can @ Napa $12.99
have a question and can't find the answer. had to replace air compressor in a 2001 Chrysler towne and country. how many cans of freon it will take?
According to: www.techchoiceparts.com/refrigerant-and-oil-capacities/chrysler Front AC Only is 34 oz. and Front and Rear is 46 oz.
Should the refrigerant have oil in it or no?
Yes. That's why the can should be vertical.
I tried this but right when i turned the valve to puncture the can, the needle went all the way into the red. Everything else was correct, my AC was on full blast, everything connected properly, etc. Not sure what else to do
Same here. But I don't think I had the connector all the way engaged because when I gave up to remove the connector, it just fell off. The needle was just reading the can's internal pressure I believe. I'll try again tomorrow.
I'm driving chrysler town and country "2005" is the same thing ? Yes or no
How do u know when it's done?
How do you read the gage face
My van sounds the exact same. What’s that noise? That a belt or a pulley of some kind? I gotta figure this shit out 😂 I don’t want to pay a mechanic to just look at it
Should purge air from charge hose
How many cans does it normally take for a town and country
Id refer to your manual or do a Google search for your particular year/model
Don't turn the can upside down when the ac on, because the compressor has to suck gas, not liquid .
HVAC and market refrigeration tech here: you definitely will be better off if you do charge it while running especially if by charging into the suction. You could charge it as a vapor but it will take longer. But liquid will move faster. You can’t charge to the high side unless you have a recovery machine hooked up in reverse(no avg homeowner is going to have that type of equipment) you can absolutely charge R-134a as a liquid into the suction of your cars A/C compressor. These systems are designed to get a certain amount of vapor superheated before if comes back to the compressor superheat is the threshold a vapor has been heated PAST its saturation temp. (Fancy way of saying the system has been engineered with a certain margin of safety built in to protect components)
You can charge liquid into the suction but only charge liquid while the compressor is running. Reason being the compressor has valves and both shut when compressor isn’t running. If you charge liquid into the suction line while the compressor is off you will just fill that pipe with liquid and the second the compressor kicks on it will get a full Column of liquid and bust valves and be virtually useless as it cannot compress liquid. However, if the compressor is running the suction gas coming back will be superheated by about 10-even as much as 30 degrees sometimes this means if you just lightly “crack that valve on the new refrigerant can open, as soon as that liquid refrigerant enters the suction line it will start absorbing the excess heat of the existing refrigerant in the system and will be all vapor by the time it gets to the compressor(almost instant but not quite) don’t open it up full bore by any means but charging liquid by “metering it” through the suction while the system is running is a standard operating procedure in the A/C and refrigeration world. Automotive A/C is a little bit different here and there so not all of my numbers will be 100% on the money but the basic methods for charging, recovery and evacuation are all the same.
IT'S NOT A VERY GOOD GAUGE. IT NEEDS AN AMBIENT TEMP SCALE. NEEDS DIFF. PSI'S AT DIFF. TEMPS. IN AZ THATS A GOOD WAY TO OVER CHARGE AND RUIN YOUR AC.
EXAMPLE: YOU FILL TO CORRECT PRESSURE AT 70 DEGREES AT 7AM THEN AT 4PM IT HITS A 110+ THE ADDED EXPANSION WILL PUT YOU WAY INTO THE RED. SO AMAZON MAY CHEAPER BUT THAT GAUGE IS USELESS HERE
Rick Corey Thanks for the comment. You are correct that temperature affects the pressure. Based on the specs of your vehicle and the current temperature you can calculate the appropriate pressure. This particular gauge does provide the pressure around the outside edge so you should be able to use it in AZ with a little bit of math. They do make gauges, however, that allow you to dial in the currrent temperature that provide you the proper range based on that temperature.
Or fill only at 110 F.
how to unclog ac hose ???
Can someone please help me I can not for the life of me find out where mine is under my hood I can’t find the hose that has the caps on it that you hook your Freon to
Question for you Dan, if you have less then 10,000 views now, there will be no adds in front of your video
Nice idea for a movie buddy, I have that kit at my shop from when i did my uncles grand prix. when i was working at Regency Collision years ago I also had my ODP card, so i was the guy that had to fill or recover all the Freon in the condensers from any front end collision that needed it... not to mention all the paper work and tagging them.
Shawn Springall Correct. Videos should only display if you have monetization turned on, which can only happen after 10k views
I wish I knew you could get it cheaper on Amazon I paid 60 bucks but I also had no ac at all
I have a 2003 Chrysler Concorde lxi
Not for a 2001 town and country
Less talky more worky
Why can't you get the right ear
This is a piss poor idea. I am an ase master tech with 20 years under my belt. Doing a recharge this way is highly inaccurate. You do not use pressure to fill an ac system you use weight there is a tag somewhere under the hood with the specification on it. Plus you should run a complete vaccume on the system first. You can have the right pressure in the system with oxygen contamination and not have enough refrigerant in the system. Which all can cause expensive damage to the ac compressor and or the receiver driver. Of all the DIY things ac is not one that should done at home there is a reason shops pay $5000 dollars for a good ac machine.
I partially agree and largely don't. For the older car market with slow AC leaks /as was described/ this method works well. Not everyone has $290-$750 for a vacuum purge AC service. And that's /if/ you can find a reliable shop.
I am no master technician but I have recharged AC (fairly) reliably with this method for years.
But some of your observations are correct. But it's not "piss poor".
THEY TOOK YER JERB!!!
You must have spent 5 minutes telling us over and over not to buy these kits at auto stores. Just get to the point.