Thanks for posting Mike!! Same part and steps for 2008 Mazda 3. Good advise to mark the flat spots. Used a 16 ton bottle jack press to install the new bushing with no problems. Cheers :-)
The suspension bolts need to be torqued to spec with the suspension at ride height - by jacking up the lower control arm until the pinch welds are off the jackstands. Otherwise, every bushing will be under torque at ride height and will fail sooner.
Exaplain the physics in how that makes it so? I just want to know how by lifting the the rest of the assembly by it torqued while its dangling? Vs when its ready pressed up on it by the weight? How does it change the amount of space? Because it would stop exerting the force once its at ride height as the rest of the suspension is taking care of it.
Thank you. My local mechanic did the biggest part of pressing in the bushing, so I can't take all of the credit. Nevertheless, thank you! And the car is still fully functional down there.
Trying to figure out the best/easiet/afforable way to tackle this on my 2009 Mazda5. I really don't think I wanna fuss with trying to get bushings out myself while under the car like a lot of videos show. Plus I have no way to get one back in. Thinking about either just being complete arms with bushing already installed so that I can do it on the side of the road on stands.. or just taking them out and taking to a shop to press in the new bushings.
I'm watching this again because I only changed the 1 side a year ago. 🙄 Also if anyone reads this, I used a regular vise to press the bushing in. It takes some cursing and maneuvering but you can do it with a vise. You just have to get it flat enough.
Very interesting. If I ever get to fix another trailing arm, I'll try using a vice or some sort of non-commercial/non-industrial grade, basically a consumer version that's easily accessible in common hardware stores, and create a new video to share. Thanks for watching this video again, and for sharing your comments. Cheers!
Thanks for the video, my speed 3 started making some alarming thunking sounds under braking, it sounded like it wasn’t at the wheel but under the car. Just jacked up that side of the car and my bushing looked exactly like yours. Guess I’ll be ordering replacements
No major suspension play that I could feel while driving, but there was a very loud, pronounced, knocking/thumbing sound when going over any kind of bump on the road. Even speed bumps at very close speeds would cause the sound. Once that bushing was replaced, the annoying and concerning sound was gone. Sorry for the late response.
If I remember correctly, the bushing has a small lip on one side, that lip should be facing towards the outside of the vehicle. Also, you have to make your own mark for the new bushing. So before removing the old bushing, mark it with a silver or white marker. It's a bit difficult to explain as I don't know all of the terminology but the part that sticks out of the bushing that bolts up into the body of the car, mark that piece with the edge of the round part of the bearing that connects to the trailing arm. That way you will know how to have the new bearing aligned with the trailing arm.
@@NDG7583 You are most welcome. I hope it works out. Good luck! Also, sorry for calling the bushing, "bearing" twice in my explanation above. I hope that did not cause any confusion. Cheers!
Just replaced my struts and shocks on my '07 3 last night, and noticed that exact bushing is near shot on both sides. I am looking to order off of Rock Auto. Is it the rear trailing arm, rear forward, rear to frame or rear right/left? Just want to make sure I order the correct ones. Thanks a ton!
You have to make your own mark for the new bushing. So before removing the old bushing, mark it with a silver or white marker. It's a bit difficult to explain as I don't know all of the terminology but the part that sticks out of the bushing that bolts up into the body of the car, mark that piece with the edge of the round part of the bearing that connects to the trailing arm. That way you will know how to have the new bearing aligned with the trailing arm.
@@mikeschmeeedotcom We used t do this with aluminum quick change rear end for racr cars many years ago to avoid havig to use a press. If it is good and sunny you might try wrapping the arm in clear plastic after the bushing has been frozen for a few hours. Let the sun serve as a solar oven.
@@MultiFormWallet This sounds super interesting. I'll definitely try this method next time I run into this trailing arm bushing issue. You just gave me a new video idea! Cheers!
ugh indeed! If your local mechanical shop does not have a press to insert the bushing, try an online search for the keywords of "handheld press trailing arm bushing" which populate some creative alternative methods of pressing the bushing into the arm.
Great video. Is the trailing arm what controls the toe of the rear wheel, or is that the lateral link/brace next to the jacking point that you used? Just got an alignment and the mechanic said the bushing where the rear toe is adjusted is nearing the end of its life, just want to check I'm looking at the right part. Thanks!
No, I don't think so, atleast at this particular Mazda 3 that I was working on. I think the toe adjustment on this 07 Mazda 3 is another arm thats connected to the trailing arm but the toe adjustment bolt is closer to the center of the rear of the vehicle. If you take a look at the 6:44 - 7:07 time stamp, there is a silver nut with notches craved into it, fairly close to the lift point where I placed the yellow floor jack. Not the bolt right next to that lift point, but the one after that. It's a little bit larger. That nut connects to an arm, that connects to the trailing arm. I think the mechanic may be referring to the bushing in that arm. Sorry I don't know the name of it and I hope I explained in a way where you can understand. I'm horrible when it comes to explaining things. Don't quote me on any of this as I'm not 100% sure but thats my best guess without looking in a Haynes manual, hah. Cheers!
@@JeanFrancoisDesrosiers oh I see. That is unfortunate, sorry to hear. This Mazda that I worked on is in fairly good shape. Municipalities generally do not spread salt on the roads in the south western corner of BC. The winter months are mostly filled with a lot of rain, though the region does see a cold snap or two with some snow. Nevertheless, the cities don't do much, other than plow the main roads because the rain and/or temperatures will melt everything within a few days.
Once again Mazda engineers jam how much stuff in front of a bushing that will need to be replaced later..i think I'll just duck tape around bushing an try shoot some polyurethane into it so I won't have 2 remove all this.
I'm digging the soft music to cover up all the swearing. Great video!
great music , and expert use of a jack and the removed wheel , well done that man.
Thanks for posting Mike!! Same part and steps for 2008 Mazda 3. Good advise to mark the flat spots. Used a 16 ton bottle jack press to install the new bushing with no problems. Cheers :-)
Right on!
The suspension bolts need to be torqued to spec with the suspension at ride height - by jacking up the lower control arm until the pinch welds are off the jackstands. Otherwise, every bushing will be under torque at ride height and will fail sooner.
Exactly 😊
Exaplain the physics in how that makes it so? I just want to know how by lifting the the rest of the assembly by it torqued while its dangling? Vs when its ready pressed up on it by the weight? How does it change the amount of space? Because it would stop exerting the force once its at ride height as the rest of the suspension is taking care of it.
Finally a Mazda 3 without dangerous rust down there. And great job by you
Thank you. My local mechanic did the biggest part of pressing in the bushing, so I can't take all of the credit. Nevertheless, thank you! And the car is still fully functional down there.
very soothing to watch with the music
Thanks, glad you liked it.
Trying to figure out the best/easiet/afforable way to tackle this on my 2009 Mazda5. I really don't think I wanna fuss with trying to get bushings out myself while under the car like a lot of videos show. Plus I have no way to get one back in. Thinking about either just being complete arms with bushing already installed so that I can do it on the side of the road on stands.. or just taking them out and taking to a shop to press in the new bushings.
I'm watching this again because I only changed the 1 side a year ago. 🙄
Also if anyone reads this, I used a regular vise to press the bushing in. It takes some cursing and maneuvering but you can do it with a vise. You just have to get it flat enough.
Very interesting. If I ever get to fix another trailing arm, I'll try using a vice or some sort of non-commercial/non-industrial grade, basically a consumer version that's easily accessible in common hardware stores, and create a new video to share. Thanks for watching this video again, and for sharing your comments. Cheers!
Thanks for the video, my speed 3 started making some alarming thunking sounds under braking, it sounded like it wasn’t at the wheel but under the car. Just jacked up that side of the car and my bushing looked exactly like yours. Guess I’ll be ordering replacements
Glad it helped, cheers!
Hello, I'm looking for bushing for my 2010 Mazda6 rim I can't find the bushing I have fitted to my car?
the part when the new bushing goes in is PRiceless. LOL. Im dying, at 4:47
Much love from a Toyota tech
Correct, I’ve tried doing it myself - and failed big time!
What was the symptoms onbthe road.was the car loose on the road
No major suspension play that I could feel while driving, but there was a very loud, pronounced, knocking/thumbing sound when going over any kind of bump on the road. Even speed bumps at very close speeds would cause the sound. Once that bushing was replaced, the annoying and concerning sound was gone. Sorry for the late response.
How the bushing goes in, is there a right side. Thank you
If I remember correctly, the bushing has a small lip on one side, that lip should be facing towards the outside of the vehicle.
Also, you have to make your own mark for the new bushing. So before removing the old bushing, mark it with a silver or white marker. It's a bit difficult to explain as I don't know all of the terminology but the part that sticks out of the bushing that bolts up into the body of the car, mark that piece with the edge of the round part of the bearing that connects to the trailing arm. That way you will know how to have the new bearing aligned with the trailing arm.
@@mikeschmeeedotcom Yes I see the lip on the new bushing. Thank you for taking the time to explain, very helpful.
@@NDG7583 You are most welcome. I hope it works out. Good luck!
Also, sorry for calling the bushing, "bearing" twice in my explanation above. I hope that did not cause any confusion.
Cheers!
@@mikeschmeeedotcom Not at al, cheers.....
Just replaced my struts and shocks on my '07 3 last night, and noticed that exact bushing is near shot on both sides. I am looking to order off of Rock Auto. Is it the rear trailing arm, rear forward, rear to frame or rear right/left? Just want to make sure I order the correct ones. Thanks a ton!
Rear trailing arm bushing
Hi, when pressing in the new bush is there a marking where they should go in?
You have to make your own mark for the new bushing. So before removing the old bushing, mark it with a silver or white marker. It's a bit difficult to explain as I don't know all of the terminology but the part that sticks out of the bushing that bolts up into the body of the car, mark that piece with the edge of the round part of the bearing that connects to the trailing arm. That way you will know how to have the new bearing aligned with the trailing arm.
I swear if i do this, Ill missed to put back one or two bolts n clips. Great vid !
It happens. Thanks!
Dang, I thought you have your own method of pressing that new bushing.....
Ever try placing the busing assembly in the freezer and the arm in the oven and slip them together?
No I have not. Interesting idea. Have you tried it? Did it work? I don't think my oven would accommodate the arm.
Sorry for the late response!
@@mikeschmeeedotcom We used t do this with aluminum quick change rear end for racr cars many years ago to avoid havig to use a press. If it is good and sunny you might try wrapping the arm in clear plastic after the bushing has been frozen for a few hours. Let the sun serve as a solar oven.
@@MultiFormWallet This sounds super interesting. I'll definitely try this method next time I run into this trailing arm bushing issue. You just gave me a new video idea! Cheers!
Thank You Mike !!!!!!!
You're welcome
is the speed3 the same
Nice, good to know, thanks!
my god this was helpful. THANK YOU
Most welcome
Yeahhhhh that's too many steps. I'm just gonna crank my music louder so I can't hear the clunking.
😂😂😂😂😂
Ugh I wanted to see how you got the bushing pressed in.
ugh indeed! If your local mechanical shop does not have a press to insert the bushing, try an online search for the keywords of "handheld press trailing arm bushing" which populate some creative alternative methods of pressing the bushing into the arm.
helpful. thanks!
You're welcome. Cheers!
Great video. Is the trailing arm what controls the toe of the rear wheel, or is that the lateral link/brace next to the jacking point that you used? Just got an alignment and the mechanic said the bushing where the rear toe is adjusted is nearing the end of its life, just want to check I'm looking at the right part. Thanks!
No, I don't think so, atleast at this particular Mazda 3 that I was working on.
I think the toe adjustment on this 07 Mazda 3 is another arm thats connected to the trailing arm but the toe adjustment bolt is closer to the center of the rear of the vehicle.
If you take a look at the 6:44 - 7:07 time stamp, there is a silver nut with notches craved into it, fairly close to the lift point where I placed the yellow floor jack. Not the bolt right next to that lift point, but the one after that. It's a little bit larger. That nut connects to an arm, that connects to the trailing arm. I think the mechanic may be referring to the bushing in that arm. Sorry I don't know the name of it and I hope I explained in a way where you can understand. I'm horrible when it comes to explaining things.
Don't quote me on any of this as I'm not 100% sure but thats my best guess without looking in a Haynes manual, hah. Cheers!
that helps, thanks again!
It is a 205 55 R16 wheel? ??
No 195/65/R15
❤❤👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Went to junkyard and found a trailing
arm with nice bushing already in it.
That seems like an easier option. Cheers!
Minecraft but auto repairs
Removing rear knuckle with 12" ratchet... You know its not happening in Canada
It did though.
@@mikeschmeeedotcom Yeah! And I'm jealous you can. On mine if I touch any bolt they shater into rust dust.
@@JeanFrancoisDesrosiers Interesting. Does your Mazda have a lot of rust, possibly from salt on roads during the winter season?
@@mikeschmeeedotcom exactly
@@JeanFrancoisDesrosiers oh I see. That is unfortunate, sorry to hear. This Mazda that I worked on is in fairly good shape. Municipalities generally do not spread salt on the roads in the south western corner of BC. The winter months are mostly filled with a lot of rain, though the region does see a cold snap or two with some snow. Nevertheless, the cities don't do much, other than plow the main roads because the rain and/or temperatures will melt everything within a few days.
No way I'd attempt it. I'm probably find some fool to buy it for cheap.
Once again Mazda engineers jam how much stuff in front of a bushing that will need to be replaced later..i think I'll just duck tape around bushing an try shoot some polyurethane into it so I won't have 2 remove all this.
i'd say that's pretty good for a bushing to last 10 years! That's one of those parts you will probably only replace once.
wasnt that bad
thats suspension looks medieval
Hmm no?
Have the time ... good luck on doing it your self... if not, prepare your wallet ... might as well sell and get another car
It was pretty easy installation in my opinion. Having a local mechanic press in the bushing into the trailing arm was pretty cheap too.
Mal vídeo, pesimo, no mostró como metió el buje, si quieres enseñar algo qe sea completo, y no a medias, te ganaste un no me gusta!!!
Less talk very straight forward I like it Picasso 🤌🏽❗️. Do all your videos like this!!
Cheers!