This happen to my vibe 130T tandem too. When my 2.3hp honda go max speed the water go over the hatch and got into my hatch very bad. Now i ask my gf go kayak again she said NO more😅
Give your gf some time... She will go back out with you eventually. Just slow it down a bit to where you're not getting a bunch of water coming over the hatch and all will be good! 😊👍
I'm a bit late to the game, but it makes no sense that water would be driven into the hull through the rudder line tube while underway. If you've ever been in any small boat with a motor there's a plug at the base of the transom that you open to drain water from the hull while underway. The water drains out rather quickly. I guess if the motor was creating some type of backwash it could happen but it sure didn't look like that was happening in the video.
All the Islands will leak a bit around the steering line entrances particularly if the rear of the boat is submerged. The culprit is an outboard motor hanging off the rear of the boat. It's going to happen again, just more slowly with the tubes pushed up and into the grommets.
Hi FFH , I put my 2.5 Suzuki on the back of my Hobie Duo compass , if I throttle to fast I start to get water coming up from the pedal drive opening filling under my seat area. Would adding a outrigger on one side keep the back end a little more afloat to stop more water from coming up , thanks
I would have to say "probably not". I'm currently looking into a kind of planer board for the rear of my TI that is adjustable so that when being propelled forward it would actually lift the rear of the kayak allowing it to plane better and keep the rear from wanting to submerge when using the outboard but that is just another future project in my long list of mods that I want to do. 😊👍
@@FFHTV I just raised my 2.5 Suzuki up a another two and a half inches just leaving the lower unit foil a couple inches in the water. Maybe it was to deep driving to back of the kayak down. Will see next time I take it out if that helps, thanks for your response !
Ok that stopped the water coming in at that point but what about the water coming out of the other end of the tube. I know originally Hobie installed small O rings inside the tubes but those usually work their way out the back end of the tube and are no longer effective. Have you seen this to be true?
Hi Maxwellmark! In my scenario I had no issues with water coming in thru the tubes themselves. All the o-rings were in place and saw no water intrusion during testing when forcing water from the outside after the initial fix.
Thanks Joshua! I'm excited to have this TI and hopeful of good things to come with it. Yes, I agree. Hajime TI videos are very inspiring and wonderful to see. 😊👍
Oh, my God. This is a scary scenario I would not want to encounter offshore. 😢 I am glad that it was you under control and boy the 2.5hp Suzuki ran like it was a 250hp outboard. Oh, Lord! 😂
holy crap! I will be checking my rear tubes as soon as it's daylight! Keen to see your motor mount mod, as I'm about to build a motor mount for the suzuki 2.5 and would love to take this into account! I'm also thinking about a bilge pump. Surprised you were able to pump it all and get going again!
Thanks for checking out my channel! The motor mount mod is done. The mod does not change the original build of the motor mount at all so that if it doesn't work out then it's no big deal. All that is left to do now is to take it out on the water and try it out. Sadly thunderstorms in my area have been consistently popping up when I have been available to go which is a no-no for me. I have seriously considered an electric bilge pump which may eventually happen once I make a decision of where to place the pump outlet on the boat. The thing about the AI and TI is that once a certain amount of water enters the hull it will submerge enough that you may not be able to open the hatch to use the hand pump since the hatch may already be under water at that point. I'm not a big fan of making holes in the boat but in this case I may make the exception but for the time being it will remain just a planned out thought while I continue relying on the hand pump if and when the need arises. 😊👍
I had a similar disaster recently on my 10 month old TI. Water intrusion seems to come in the rear and possibly other round hatches as well, between the hatch and the kayak. Problem with the gasket as well as the hatch twist handles as the sources of leak. My steering tubes are fine though. Whilst I seal the gasket with additional silicon, I dont have any solution for thd hatch handles unless I cover them with tape temporarily. Do u have similar issues?
Seems like I always get a little bit of water coming in by way of the hatch somewhere but no enough that it would worry me. Make sure that you have a sump pump with you at all time just in case of a worst case scenario. I may eventually go with an electric bilge pump in the future. Only time will tell... 😊👍
Holy cow you got way too much weight on the stern. That motor is way to heavy to have on the stern. Water has a way for finding its way in when an area of a boat is not meant to be submerged. I had a friend put a motor on one of his akas allowing the weight of the motor to not be on the stern. The load capacity of your boat may be over as well. I do very rough ocean sailing with my TI, without issue. I see a lot of people adding a lot of extra weight to their TI's and the TI is just not designed for a lot of extra weight.
Just to mention... Your outboard motor height is too low.. being set too low it will suck your kayak lower into the water when under throttle... Lift the motor up so the cavitation plate is just under the surface of the water.. you will get more speed and lift..
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
This happen to my vibe 130T tandem too. When my 2.3hp honda go max speed the water go over the hatch and got into my hatch very bad. Now i ask my gf go kayak again she said NO more😅
Give your gf some time... She will go back out with you eventually. Just slow it down a bit to where you're not getting a bunch of water coming over the hatch and all will be good! 😊👍
Stay safe out there amigo!
Thank you Shane! At my age safety is a priority for sure. 😊👍
I'm a bit late to the game, but it makes no sense that water would be driven into the hull through the rudder line tube while underway. If you've ever been in any small boat with a motor there's a plug at the base of the transom that you open to drain water from the hull while underway. The water drains out rather quickly. I guess if the motor was creating some type of backwash it could happen but it sure didn't look like that was happening in the video.
All the Islands will leak a bit around the steering line entrances particularly if the rear of the boat is submerged. The culprit is an outboard motor hanging off the rear of the boat. It's going to happen again, just more slowly with the tubes pushed up and into the grommets.
Plastic Hull boats have their limits. The amount of crap loaded on to this hull is ridiculous.
Hi FFH , I put my 2.5 Suzuki on the back of my Hobie Duo compass , if I throttle to fast I start to get water coming up from the pedal drive opening filling under my seat area. Would adding a outrigger on one side keep the back end a little more afloat to stop more water from coming up , thanks
I would have to say "probably not". I'm currently looking into a kind of planer board for the rear of my TI that is adjustable so that when being propelled forward it would actually lift the rear of the kayak allowing it to plane better and keep the rear from wanting to submerge when using the outboard but that is just another future project in my long list of mods that I want to do. 😊👍
@@FFHTV I just raised my 2.5 Suzuki up a another two and a half inches just leaving the lower unit foil a couple inches in the water. Maybe it was to deep driving to back of the kayak down. Will see next time I take it out if that helps, thanks for your response !
Ok that stopped the water coming in at that point but what about the water coming out of the other end of the tube. I know originally Hobie installed small O rings inside the tubes but those usually work their way out the back end of the tube and are no longer effective. Have you seen this to be true?
Hi Maxwellmark! In my scenario I had no issues with water coming in thru the tubes themselves. All the o-rings were in place and saw no water intrusion during testing when forcing water from the outside after the initial fix.
Hajime K's YT channel is what made me want to get a TI. Super cool to see you with a TI now too. Can't wait to see what you do with it :)
Thanks Joshua! I'm excited to have this TI and hopeful of good things to come with it. Yes, I agree. Hajime TI videos are very inspiring and wonderful to see. 😊👍
Oh, my God. This is a scary scenario I would not want to encounter offshore. 😢 I am glad that it was you under control and boy the 2.5hp Suzuki ran like it was a 250hp outboard. Oh, Lord! 😂
holy crap! I will be checking my rear tubes as soon as it's daylight! Keen to see your motor mount mod, as I'm about to build a motor mount for the suzuki 2.5 and would love to take this into account! I'm also thinking about a bilge pump. Surprised you were able to pump it all and get going again!
Thanks for checking out my channel! The motor mount mod is done. The mod does not change the original build of the motor mount at all so that if it doesn't work out then it's no big deal. All that is left to do now is to take it out on the water and try it out. Sadly thunderstorms in my area have been consistently popping up when I have been available to go which is a no-no for me. I have seriously considered an electric bilge pump which may eventually happen once I make a decision of where to place the pump outlet on the boat. The thing about the AI and TI is that once a certain amount of water enters the hull it will submerge enough that you may not be able to open the hatch to use the hand pump since the hatch may already be under water at that point. I'm not a big fan of making holes in the boat but in this case I may make the exception but for the time being it will remain just a planned out thought while I continue relying on the hand pump if and when the need arises. 😊👍
I had a similar disaster recently on my 10 month old TI. Water intrusion seems to come in the rear and possibly other round hatches as well, between the hatch and the kayak. Problem with the gasket as well as the hatch twist handles as the sources of leak. My steering tubes are fine though. Whilst I seal the gasket with additional silicon, I dont have any solution for thd hatch handles unless I cover them with tape temporarily. Do u have similar issues?
Seems like I always get a little bit of water coming in by way of the hatch somewhere but no enough that it would worry me. Make sure that you have a sump pump with you at all time just in case of a worst case scenario. I may eventually go with an electric bilge pump in the future. Only time will tell... 😊👍
Holy cow you got way too much weight on the stern. That motor is way to heavy to have on the stern. Water has a way for finding its way in when an area of a boat is not meant to be submerged. I had a friend put a motor on one of his akas allowing the weight of the motor to not be on the stern. The load capacity of your boat may be over as well. I do very rough ocean sailing with my TI, without issue. I see a lot of people adding a lot of extra weight to their TI's and the TI is just not designed for a lot of extra weight.
Just to mention... Your outboard motor height is too low.. being set too low it will suck your kayak lower into the water when under throttle... Lift the motor up so the cavitation plate is just under the surface of the water.. you will get more speed and lift..