Exhaust extensions almost always have to have something welded on. Unless it is a Briggs and Stratton motor as they usually have standard pipe threaded exhaust. This allows you to go buy steel plumbing pipe and make up an extended exhaust. I actually had to weld a small 1 inch nipple onto the stock exhaust to make it fit the pipe. I then just used a small set screw to hold it on. Mine is not air tight at the joint. I do use a CO2 detector just for safety.
I found a "Stens" part #120-224 from my local small engine repair shop and it works great. I got all my parts together and assembled. Now I am ready for a long running generator.
Hi. Thank you For this great information Can you tell me please Is there any necessity for the fewl tank to be full ? And is there any conceren for flooding when conecting the extra tank ? Thanks again!
If you just happen to have a small tap and die set, then you could drill it at 11/32", and then tap the cap with an M-10 X 1.0 tap for an exact fit ! It worked for me perfectly.
Thanks. That did work. Note: The fuel cap on new eu2000 does not have the lip at bottom of the center hole. Just drill enough to pre thread and then your ready
I know this is an old video but I am a little stumped. Maybe you'll see my post. I built the extended run fuel line exactly as you did. It didn't work. I used the same B&S tap / fitting as you. After watching many videos I added a fuel filter and a bulb pump. Still didn't work. I made sure the Honda tank was filled right up - nothing. I experimented with gravity - nothing. I used an airline quick disconnect at the cap end. I am beginning to think that the Honda just doesn't produce enough 'suck' to pull the fuel through. The gen packed up and I have to fix it but once I get it working I am going to persevere with this darn fuel line. I am fed up refueling all the time. I am going to remove all little 'extras' (pump, filter, quick disconnect) and just run a hose. I'll see if that works. Many other RUclipsrs are showing more sophisticated lines working. As I say I'm stumped. Meanwhile I bought a Harbor Freight Predator 2000. A great purchase. So glad I didn't buy another Honda. To expensive and unreliable. I want to adapt the fuel line to run that too. I am sure it can be done without the complex nonsense 'Pinellas Power Products' is selling for several hundred dollars. Anyway thanks for your videos you are man after my own heart.
At 8:43 you can see the mod really good. I had to tack weld a small 1" i.d. x1" long nipple over the stock 1/2" i.d. nipple on the Honda muffler. Then I slide in the longer section of tubing (3/4")and use a screw to temporarily hold it until I need to service or remove the generators. It is not 100% air tight but still 99% and good enough. This allows me to use the generator as normal when not using it in the RV.
I've been finding that in extreme temperatures a single Honda likes to trip the safety overload once in awhile. one works is fine while I'm sitting in my driveway for test procedures but out on the road it proves otherwise. I can generally one run one at full throttle and the other Eco and there's so much happier starting that roof 13.5k AC
So you have some really good ideas on this and the home made honda parallel cable. The only thing I think I would change is the 12 v automotive fan to push air into the RV storage area. I can't exactly tell where yours is but I think when ventilating something like this it is better to "pull" air instead of "push" it. Pulling air will create a slight negative pressure in the space and guarantee that no stray fumes make their way into the main camper. Also, although nothing to do with this, I used to have a house with a crawl space and terrible moisture problems. It had a fan pushing air under the house to ventilate it to try to help with the problem. It didn't work very well though. I remounted the fan to pull the air out from under the house and the differences were amazing.
The setup hangs off the back of an RV. They are set up in a long box with ventilation only on each end. Pulling would put the fan on the exhaust side and would not be good. Pulling is better for large open spaces but pushing directs the flow to an exact spot and removes heat quicker from a focused area.
One point to mention here is that I’m finding this mod only works with a certain run of model years. My 2 Honda eu2000i companion caps are a bit different and the center valve is actually recessed into the cap about a half inch and not flush with the top so the 90 T doesnt work the same. You have to come out with a straight fitting first and then 90 off of that. Just a heads up.
Very nice setup! And very smart way have the cap valve fitted! Some old good memories filled me when to show the way you twist regular 120ac to fit 12v honda :) I was thinking of putting a T-valve instead that would be tank/input port/ off/ so you can have honda fuel tank empty if using the extended one and have it off to use natural gas on burn carburator gas - easier for storage and not very expensive.
I had to buy a 23/64" ($6) drill bit, 2 of those petcocks ($22.47) and I threw in a pack of 3 inline fuel filters $6.99) but I got it done. The fuel line was $7.70. Today I ordered from Amazon 1/4" barb male and female quick disconnects ($18.52). At the moment I am going to dangle the end of the fuel line (cut at a 45 degree angle) in the gas can but for now it'll do. WAAAAY more than $20. So far I think I have spent closer to $60. It'll be worth it though.
I just purchased a new Honda EU2000i generator, I've watched all your videos. Wanting to extend the running time of my new generator I purchased the Briggs & Straton shut off valve and went to modify my fuel cap as this video shows. I seems that the newer model fuel cap I have doesn't match the one shown in the video. After disassembly of my fuel cap (Pin, washer, spring, dome shaped washer, foam, rubber washer, valve) I went to drill the 23/64" hole and my cap is different than shown. It is deeper down inside to where you drill the hole. Anyway I continued and drilled a small part and tried to tap the Briggs & Straton valve in but the threads are NOT long enough to fit down into the cap. I will need to figure out a different plan to attach the shut off valve and fuel line to my cap. At least I was able to re-assemble the cap to original for now. Honda has definitely changed their style of cap from the one shown in your video.
Yes, I've seen the new style caps and have had a few people message me on it. They only changed the outer dimensions to a larger more comfortable to remove size. You can still do this, but you need an extension to reach down in there. The Briggs valve uses a standard 1/8" NPT thread. You can find small plumbing pipe fittings at the Home Depot/Lowes to extend the reach. There are 2 basic methods. First you could screw a 1/8"npt male x1/8"npt male nipple and then a 1/8"npt female x1/8"npt female union, then the Briggs valve. Second you could just get a 1/8"npt male to hose barb fitting ( amzn.to/1YUdABR ) and then sleeve the Briggs threads and fitting barb in a short piece of rubber fuel line and clamps.
Great video! But I wanted to let you and any future viewers know that this only works with the older fuel caps (part number 17620-ZT3-030). It is June 2015 and I just purchased 2 new EU-2000's and the caps are different and this mod will not work like it does with the cap you show in your video.
Jim VanGieson I did have one gentleman do it. He bought a small 1/4" npt brass extension at the Home Depot. This allows you to get around the extra meat they've built into the new gas caps.
sixtyfiveford I thought about doing something like that but, at $12 each, I just went ahead a bought a couple of the old style caps like the ones in your video.
Very nice. I like the fan and ventalation. I'm definitely building a set up similar to this. I might weld up a secure steel version of what you built. I bet they steal those things all the time. I'll make em bring a torch at least.
Hey sixtyfiveford; yet another great vid. Your ingenuity is amazing! There is no prison that could hold you! btw, is that a 65 ford truck in your garage-hence the name? Thanks again
I guess I was just being impatient. Fired the genny's up and marked where the fuel was in the line and after about 20 min the fuel had almost reached the genny cap. I guess I figured that if I used the primmer bulb to fill the lines the vacuum from the pumps would keep them full. Live & learn! Thanks!
Your generator basement is fantastic! Such a great idea with the fans and exhaust extenders. It was hard to tell, but is that sitting on a hitch style cargo carrier?
Thanks. It's kind of like a hitch cargo carrier. It is bolted to the square RVbumper and a wood housing was made for it (previous owner). I have went on a few cross country trip with it running and everything seams to work great and the temperatures(using temperature gun) are all great. I prop the door open a few inches just to help push out hot air but I wouldn't need to if the floor of the carrier was mesh.
I know its kinda old video but for me is pure knowledge. I live in venezuela and we are having power outages of 4 hours every single day (only for mother day they left us in peace). 2 things: 1) would you rather a original plastic cap like your to be modified or ca i go with a metal one (in amazon they are like 9$). I read that metal would damage the plastic thread of the fuel generator tank. 2) could you do a video o be more specific on how you manage to do the 12v cable? Thanks a lot
Hello, on the EU2200I its a different size cap, the metal ones off of Amazon didn’t fit, and not sure of the size petcock ( threaded part or the hose part) should be used either. Thank you for taking the time and effort that you have taken with providing us with this video.
Wow that's brilliant! Thanks so much! Ok Last question! I have two eu2000i's and sometimes I only use one, like to charge batteries or make coffee when I'm out boondocking, so I'm building this hose as you instruct and how can I shut off one side of the T when I only want to pull gas to one generator? It seems that since the cap is screwed into both that I have to haul them both out of the truck Even if I'm Only starting one.
You can use the shut off on one and remove the cap to carry the other around Or you can get an inline fuel shut off and put in inline with the one you want to leave in the truck. Unplug it after the inline fuel shutoff.
It requires welding. I welded a small 1" length of pipe to the exhaust outlet. I then can insert a slightly smaller diameter pipe into it and use a set screw to retain it.
Thank you for this! Do you know why I'm only able to siphon about half of my extended range 5 gallon fuel can? I don't have any holes in the external tanks "straw" hose, and it's fully submerged.
I want to modify my gas caps like you did in the "Honda EU2200i EU2000i extended Fuel range Make your own gas caps" video. The stem on my original shutoff valve is 18/64 so it seems like a 23/64 bit would remove a lot more material than your video shows. What is the diameter of your original stem?
I just bought a 2020 Honda EU2200i TAG Bluetooth generator. Based on your comments, it seems my cap is different from the one in your video. Do you know what size drill bit I should use to ream out my cap, and will the part you listed above for 2014 and newer (¼" barb x 1/8" NPT Male Pipe) fit this newer cap? Thanks! Your videos are great.
I have not had an opportunity to have my hands on a eu2200i but they should be identical to the newer eu2000i caps. You can buy caps already made these days amzn.to/2WJ9541
@@sixtyfiveford Thanks for the quick reply. All of the EU2200 models have serial numbers that start with: "EAMT-" which is different from all the other Honda gen models. The gas cap part# for all the EU2200's is 17620-Z44-A30, which is unique to all, and only the EU2200's. So, it seems that any cap that will fit any of the other models may not be a good fit for the EU2200. And from what I've read, if it doesn't have a good seal at the gen gas tank, the fuel pump won't suck gas :-(
Here's a link to a page with all of the Honda gen models with part diagrams and part numbers: www.hondapowersportsparts.com/oemparts/c/honda_power_equipment_generator_eu_series/parts
I am not getting gas to come up from the auxilliary container...I filled to generator's tank right up to the top of the fill hole. Does the line have to be primed? Does this mean I may have an air leak? If so, maybe use some silicone caulk or teflon tape on the petcock's threads?
Very nice video. I'm going to try making one as well. Couple of questions: 1. I only have a 22/64" or a 24/64" (3/8") drill bit, could I use the 22/64" instead of the 23/64" drill bit that you used in your video? 2. I already have a 3/8" marine style fuel line and was wondering would that be too loose. Was your 1/4" fuel line a snug fit? Thanks!
This is the best and most simple modification i have seen for the EU2000I. I have been looking for the right petcock, but haven`t found it yet, can you tell me where i can buy this, or the part number, so i will know exactly which part i`m looking for? Great Video,,,Regards>
When the gen pulls fuel from the aux fuel tank does it maintain the current fuel level that is in the gen's fuel tank (if you have a 1/2 tank it maintains the 1/2 tank) or does it fill the tank to the top? Just wondering if I would need to disconnect the aux tank and let the gen run for a while before I shut it off.
Jim VanGieson It will keep the level the same. The fuel that is being used sucks the same volume in to replace it. If anything it may be a miniscule amount lower.
Love your set up with the fan and the exhaust extension! I read your prior comment below but still don't quite understand what's keeping the extension exhaust pipe from getting too hot to the touch. Could you please clarify: you welded a 1" long piece onto the existing muffler , then added another free rolling longer and larger 3/4" diameter pipe over that to extend out to your shed/box vent? It's not a typo that the initial pipe you welded is only 1 inch long tacked onto the original muffler and not longer? Because im visualizing 2 full length pipes, one outside the other with air between the two to keep the pipe from being scorching hot. And you mentioned about screws or was it bolts to temporarily tighten the pipe. So holes need to be drilled into the pipe? What are thosr screw/bolt tightened against? Lastly, is that a galvanized water pipe, or a metal conduit? Thanks so much in advance!
It's just cheap electrical conduit. I have 1" of pipe welded to the Honda muffler. I then can add any length of pipe to that and use a set screw to hold it in place. I put a larger piece of pipe over the length of pipe to reduce heat in some areas. I use bolts going through the side of the larger pipe that go in and touch the inner pipe as a stand off. You could also just use fiberglass exhaust heat wrap to wrap the pipe.
I have a 3 or 4 year old EU2000. Bought all the parts before taking the cap apart. The cap is completely redesigned from the one in the video. The shut off valve is too shallow to be threaded into the cap. Needs more thought on how to make it work.
So when you running this do you leave the gas can vented, or is it vacuum sealed like the generator caps? I have heard your supposed to vent the gas can while the generator needs to be vacuume sealed. If the gas can isn't vacuumed sealed, how would it create vacuumed to pull from the gas can to the generator. Also can you leave the generator completely full and have it pull from the gas can without overflowing. Thank you for your time
The aux gas can is vented. The Honda tanks are sealed except for the port going into the fuel of the aux tank. Yes, you fill the generator tank all the way up then attach the setup.
will drilling a hole in the cap void any/all of your warranty ? Also, what tips/suggestion would you give the owner of a new eu2000 who has yet to start/run it ?
A.N. conley You're not ruining the cap and it can be put right back to original. You can buy replacement caps or you can buy aluminum caps with a port already in them. If you can find a gas station with ethanol free gas, use it and you wont and have any issues with your machine. www.pure-gas.org will show you local stations with e-free
@@sixtyfiveford Ok, I'll check tomorrow. I heard there's a drain tube so the gas doesn't drain/spill all over the generator. Someone says after that open choke and pull start cord a couple times to clear the jets too.
As for exhaust extensions do you have a video how to? I wanted to do some research of putting the generator in the shed/ garage . Putting inside on near shared living space does not seem to be a good idea as CO gas is sneaky dangerous. Thank you for your videos once again!
+Raven4122 I'll have to say this is one of the few things I haven't had to replace a pull start on. It definitely wont be fun. The instinct with these Hondas is to pull the cord upwards at an angle. It cuts grooves into the plastic and frays the cord. The cord should be pulled straight out horizontally to avoid this.
that is how i do start it, another video addressed this issue, it frays right where it goes in the actual recoil part. Another quick question, mine used to start 2 pulls max when cold now it seams 4-5 pulls.. any ideas to get it back to 2 pull max? it is 2 yrs old..
Raven4122 The ethanol in your gasoline is slowly tarnishing the carburetor parts. It will soon need a carb cleaning. You can also switch to ethanol free gasoline to prevent this ( www.pure-gas.org will list your local stations) If the cord is fraying and your pulling horizontal; the eyelet in the housing has a bur on it.
I didnt think ethenol left a tarnish I know regular fuel does, I used to race and used ethenol never had any issues with it..ill check it out though thanks.
The ethanol by itself doesn't but since it is hydroscopic it pulls moisture from the air and sinks it the base of the carb bowl/gas tank. The water stays mixed with the ethanol and keeps it separated. This mixture tarnishes the brass jets and causes difficulty starting.
Yeah, they charge a lot for the Hondas but if you have to live next to your generator(RV or camper) sound it everything. People have had good luck with those HF units.
sixtyfiveford Yeah good point. I'd love to get one of the harbor freight inverter generators but they're a lot of money. The 900 watt one is more in my price range.
I simply welded a 1" pipe nipple over the exhaust outlet. The nipple protrudes about 1/2" from the plastic housing and I can insert longer pipe(in this case electrical conduit) of any length.
@@sixtyfiveford Great idea, I was wondering if anybody ever tried threading the muffler and possibly adding a quick connect , Thank you so much for taking the to write and reply .
Does this work the same with the EU3000is? The gas cap looks the same, but I see some kits that have an extra hose attached from the gas cap to something on the face of the 3000. Thanks for the tutorial!
Why don’t you just covert it to run on propane and get 6 times the run time? I used one by Hutch Mountain. I can get up to 30 hours from a BBQ propane tank. You can run either propane or gasoline. And no pouring gas in the dark!
I powered my house (half the panel) for 2 years and 4 months while we were waiting for PG&E to get their engineering closer to us.… I owned a pool of three EU2000i generators at one point, with usually two working and one not. The unit would run on average 8-10 hours a day. HERE'S A TIP for those of you that are going to run this generator for extended periods of time. Take the original plug out(careful with this, you can lose the plug down the inner engine shrouds), take it to the auto parts store and have them sell you a plug that is one heat-range step HOTTER. Problem is that carbon will eventually build up heavily on the face of the piston, when it gets really really bad, a piece of carbon will chip off and foul the exhaust valve and then you have no compression, the only solution then is to overhaul the internals of the engine which is very expensive unless you do it yourself. (I've gotten so I can tear this engine down and have the piston completely out in about an hour.) After I WORE OUT the first one (dealer told me it was junk) I became a religious user of Castrol full-synthetic.
It's a good idea to Read your plug every once in a while. Not everyone will benefit nor need a hotter plug. Depending on your elevation the oxygen percentage is going to change and you will have a higher or lower input compared to your carb fuel jetting(richer or leaner). Simple things like a dirty air filter will cause a rich situation and carbon buildup. Also the average outside temperature or how confined of space they are used in plays a rule in choosing a plug. Also whether or not you run eco throttle a lot (the more you run eco throttle the higher chance of carbon buildup). Honda generalizes the specs and gives the same parameters for everyone. They have a fixed jet carb that delivers the exact same amount of fuel from sea level to 5000 feet (which has 16% less oxygen). At that point they recommend a high altitude jet which delivers less fuel to match the oxygen level. Which is not the best. So it was great that you "read" your plug and addressed the issue.
I appreciate your video. I have the newer Honda generator with Companion. Can you give me the details how to convert that gas cap and adjustments I need to make vs your video? Also I believe my Hondas are supposed to run 8 hours, not 4. Is that true and is it because they made a bigger tank or what? Thanks again.
I put detailed instructions in the video description for the newer style gas caps. They will run 4-8hours depending on the load applied. The gas tanks are the same size from old to new models.
Exhaust extensions almost always have to have something welded on. Unless it is a Briggs and Stratton motor as they usually have standard pipe threaded exhaust. This allows you to go buy steel plumbing pipe and make up an extended exhaust. I actually had to weld a small 1 inch nipple onto the stock exhaust to make it fit the pipe. I then just used a small set screw to hold it on. Mine is not air tight at the joint. I do use a CO2 detector just for safety.
GREAT.. I used the extended range caps for a week straight and and they worked flawlessly.
Awesome.
You just saved me about $180 buying the extended range kit. Thank you.
+Jeffro115 Awesome.
I found a "Stens" part #120-224 from my local small engine repair shop and it works great. I got all my parts together and assembled. Now I am ready for a long running generator.
Stens makes good replacement parts. That is the exact part I used in the video.
Hi. Thank you
For this great information
Can you tell me please
Is there any necessity for the fewl tank to be full ?
And is there any conceren for flooding when conecting the extra tank ?
Thanks again!
That gas cap upgrade is pretty slick...I have a EU2000 with a 3gal plastic outboard motor tank for ext run...Works real nice & clean
If you just happen to have a small tap and die set, then you could drill it at 11/32", and then tap the cap with an M-10 X 1.0 tap for an exact fit ! It worked for me perfectly.
Thanks. That did work.
Note: The fuel cap on new eu2000 does not have the lip at bottom of the center hole. Just drill enough to pre thread and then your ready
Great to know. If it doesn't seal tight a little Permatex #2(any auto parts store carries) on the threads will seal it up.
I know this is an old video but I am a little stumped. Maybe you'll see my post. I built the extended run fuel line exactly as you did. It didn't work. I used the same B&S tap / fitting as you. After watching many videos I added a fuel filter and a bulb pump. Still didn't work.
I made sure the Honda tank was filled right up - nothing. I experimented with gravity - nothing. I used an airline quick disconnect at the cap end.
I am beginning to think that the Honda just doesn't produce enough 'suck' to pull the fuel through. The gen packed up and I have to fix it but once I get it working I am going to persevere with this darn fuel line. I am fed up refueling all the time.
I am going to remove all little 'extras' (pump, filter, quick disconnect) and just run a hose. I'll see if that works. Many other RUclipsrs are showing more sophisticated lines working. As I say I'm stumped.
Meanwhile I bought a Harbor Freight Predator 2000. A great purchase. So glad I didn't buy another Honda. To expensive and unreliable. I want to adapt the fuel line to run that too. I am sure it can be done without the complex nonsense 'Pinellas Power Products' is selling for several hundred dollars.
Anyway thanks for your videos you are man after my own heart.
Moe, that is a good modification on the gas caps. The fan is also a great tip.
Thanks Man. It has worked great for the last few years.
I love how you converted the plug! Love your videos.
At 8:43 you can see the mod really good. I had to tack weld a small 1" i.d. x1" long nipple over the stock 1/2" i.d. nipple on the Honda muffler. Then I slide in the longer section of tubing (3/4")and use a screw to temporarily hold it until I need to service or remove the generators. It is not 100% air tight but still 99% and good enough. This allows me to use the generator as normal when not using it in the RV.
I'am Your Newest Subscriber Great Videos. Why 2 EU2000is ? Mine Runs Roof AC Fine
I've been finding that in extreme temperatures a single Honda likes to trip the safety overload once in awhile. one works is fine while I'm sitting in my driveway for test procedures but out on the road it proves otherwise. I can generally one run one at full throttle and the other Eco and there's so much happier starting that roof 13.5k AC
This video saved me about $150 and made me look like a genius to my 12 year old son.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
You never cease to amaze me. Simple and effective. Thanks.
+shouldibehere Thanks, I'm glad you like it.
Are you sure you don't have some Mexican in you. Very inventive... Good job!
So you have some really good ideas on this and the home made honda parallel cable. The only thing I think I would change is the 12 v automotive fan to push air into the RV storage area. I can't exactly tell where yours is but I think when ventilating something like this it is better to "pull" air instead of "push" it. Pulling air will create a slight negative pressure in the space and guarantee that no stray fumes make their way into the main camper.
Also, although nothing to do with this, I used to have a house with a crawl space and terrible moisture problems. It had a fan pushing air under the house to ventilate it to try to help with the problem. It didn't work very well though. I remounted the fan to pull the air out from under the house and the differences were amazing.
The setup hangs off the back of an RV. They are set up in a long box with ventilation only on each end. Pulling would put the fan on the exhaust side and would not be good. Pulling is better for large open spaces but pushing directs the flow to an exact spot and removes heat quicker from a focused area.
One point to mention here is that I’m finding this mod only works with a certain run of model years. My 2 Honda eu2000i companion caps are a bit different and the center valve is actually recessed into the cap about a half inch and not flush with the top so the 90 T doesnt work the same. You have to come out with a straight fitting first and then 90 off of that. Just a heads up.
Very nice setup! And very smart way have the cap valve fitted!
Some old good memories filled me when to show the way you twist regular 120ac to fit 12v honda :)
I was thinking of putting a T-valve instead that would be tank/input port/ off/ so you can have honda fuel tank empty if using the extended one and have it off to use natural gas on burn carburator gas - easier for storage and not very expensive.
Unbelievable!!! You are so creative. Thanks for sharing. Please keep the videos coming.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Thanks for your tip about how to make that plug
Some very clever ideas. Love the 120V cord cap heat and twist. Thanks!
EustisRider Thanks.
I had to buy a 23/64" ($6) drill bit, 2 of those petcocks ($22.47) and I threw in a pack of 3 inline fuel filters $6.99) but I got it done. The fuel line was $7.70. Today I ordered from Amazon 1/4" barb male and female quick disconnects ($18.52). At the moment I am going to dangle the end of the fuel line (cut at a 45 degree angle) in the gas can but for now it'll do. WAAAAY more than $20. So far I think I have spent closer to $60. It'll be worth it though.
I just purchased a new Honda EU2000i generator, I've watched all your videos. Wanting to extend the running time of my new generator I purchased the Briggs & Straton shut off valve and went to modify my fuel cap as this video shows.
I seems that the newer model fuel cap I have doesn't match the one shown in the video.
After disassembly of my fuel cap (Pin, washer, spring, dome shaped washer, foam, rubber washer, valve) I went to drill the 23/64" hole and my cap is different than shown. It is deeper down inside to where you drill the hole. Anyway I continued and drilled a small part and tried to tap the Briggs & Straton valve in but the threads are NOT long enough to fit down into the cap.
I will need to figure out a different plan to attach the shut off valve and fuel line to my cap.
At least I was able to re-assemble the cap to original for now.
Honda has definitely changed their style of cap from the one shown in your video.
Yes, I've seen the new style caps and have had a few people message me on it. They only changed the outer dimensions to a larger more comfortable to remove size. You can still do this, but you need an extension to reach down in there. The Briggs valve uses a standard 1/8" NPT thread. You can find small plumbing pipe fittings at the Home Depot/Lowes to extend the reach. There are 2 basic methods. First you could screw a 1/8"npt male x1/8"npt male nipple and then a 1/8"npt female x1/8"npt female union, then the Briggs valve. Second you could just get a 1/8"npt male to hose barb fitting ( amzn.to/1YUdABR ) and then sleeve the Briggs threads and fitting barb in a short piece of rubber fuel line and clamps.
Great video! But I wanted to let you and any future viewers know that this only works with the older fuel caps (part number 17620-ZT3-030). It is June 2015 and I just purchased 2 new EU-2000's and the caps are different and this mod will not work like it does with the cap you show in your video.
Jim VanGieson I did have one gentleman do it. He bought a small 1/4" npt brass extension at the Home Depot. This allows you to get around the extra meat they've built into the new gas caps.
sixtyfiveford I thought about doing something like that but, at $12 each, I just went ahead a bought a couple of the old style caps like the ones in your video.
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it.
If you want the threads to turn out best, spend $8 for a 1/8" NPT tap, and about the same for a tapered reamer.
Actually, the way he's doing it is better. Because, it's not removing material and helps make a much better seal without having to use sealant.
Wow. Great job. Simple, elegant solution. The best kind. I learned a lot.
Waste Nottingham Hey Thanks.
Very nice. I like the fan and ventalation. I'm definitely building a set up similar to this. I might weld up a secure steel version of what you built. I bet they steal those things all the time. I'll make em bring a torch at least.
This box was on the Motorhome when I got it. Earlier this year I rebuild it out of steel and sheathed in Aluminum. Definitely more secure.
@@sixtyfiveford that's awesome. Thanks for the ideas. I think I'll make mine so I can unpin it and move it with the loader if I want.
good setup idea, what is that in, an rv,
Clear and Simple, main components of great solutions.
thank you
Glad it helped
Hey sixtyfiveford; yet another great vid. Your ingenuity is amazing! There is no prison that could hold you! btw, is that a 65 ford truck in your garage-hence the name? Thanks again
Patrick McMurray Thanks. No prison.... Too funny. Yeah, the truck in the garage is my 1965 Ford F100 and my name sake.
great straight forward video.....right to the point.
I guess I was just being impatient. Fired the genny's up and marked where the fuel was in the line and after about 20 min the fuel had almost reached the genny cap. I guess I figured that if I used the primmer bulb to fill the lines the vacuum from the pumps would keep them full. Live & learn! Thanks!
+Jim VanGieson Enjoy the endless gas.
thanks for sharing and well done! have looked into many options and this is by far the easiest/most simple!
+Andy Higgins Hey Thanks.
sixtyfiveford Thanks I built one a while back after watching the video. Now I have to modify it for a 3rd generator.
Michael Gutierrez They're thirsty little bugger when they're running AC units.
Your generator basement is fantastic! Such a great idea with the fans and exhaust extenders. It was hard to tell, but is that sitting on a hitch style cargo carrier?
Thanks. It's kind of like a hitch cargo carrier. It is bolted to the square RVbumper and a wood housing was made for it (previous owner). I have went on a few cross country trip with it running and everything seams to work great and the temperatures(using temperature gun) are all great. I prop the door open a few inches just to help push out hot air but I wouldn't need to if the floor of the carrier was mesh.
just saw this video and the DIY 30 amp parallel wire. Great info well explained and demonstrated.
+JACK32767 Hey Thanks.
Appreciate the video, simple and to the point, Paul from Iowa
I'm glad it helped
if I ever get ready to go buy something I am going to check with you get your opinion on what to buy in my price range, good Video :)
I know its kinda old video but for me is pure knowledge. I live in venezuela and we are having power outages of 4 hours every single day (only for mother day they left us in peace). 2 things: 1) would you rather a original plastic cap like your to be modified or ca i go with a metal one (in amazon they are like 9$). I read that metal would damage the plastic thread of the fuel generator tank. 2) could you do a video o be more specific on how you manage to do the 12v cable? Thanks a lot
The metal caps were a lot more when I did the video. They should work great.
Hello, on the EU2200I its a different size cap, the metal ones off of Amazon didn’t fit, and not sure of the size petcock ( threaded part or the hose part) should be used either. Thank you for taking the time and effort that you have taken with providing us with this video.
You don't need the o-ring washer under your threaded in fuel valve if you seal the threads going into the cap with thread sealant.
Awesome set up! 👏👍
Apparently not where you needed me.... Thanks for watching.
Creative as allways :-)
Using suction to fill up receiving tanks as there level drops, nice :-) :-)
It's just extra insurance but not completely necessary.
Wow that's brilliant! Thanks so much!
Ok Last question!
I have two eu2000i's and sometimes I only use one, like to charge batteries or make coffee when I'm out boondocking, so I'm building this hose as you instruct and how can I shut off one side of the T when I only want to pull gas to one generator? It seems that since the cap is screwed into both that I have to haul them both out of the truck Even if I'm Only starting one.
You can use the shut off on one and remove the cap to carry the other around Or you can get an inline fuel shut off and put in inline with the one you want to leave in the truck. Unplug it after the inline fuel shutoff.
You did t seem to provide the size of the o ring. I assume it’s a 3-8” OD? I’d assume it needs to be a special type to be fuel resistant?
nice set up!....very cool and creative
mikeatc33 Hey Thanks.
Please show us how to extend the exhaust on the Honda EU 2000 generator. I like your set-up and would like to make one myself. Thanks for what you do.
It requires welding. I welded a small 1" length of pipe to the exhaust outlet. I then can insert a slightly smaller diameter pipe into it and use a set screw to retain it.
Thank you for this!
Do you know why I'm only able to siphon about half of my extended range 5 gallon fuel can? I don't have any holes in the external tanks "straw" hose, and it's fully submerged.
I really appreciate your video’s...Can you make a video on this subject for a Westinghouse igen2500 generator? Thanks.
Great detailed video. Thanks for the great ideas, also love the extended exhaust.
Albert Borges Thanks. The extended exhaust is something a lot of people have commented on. I may have to do a video on it.
sixtyfiveford I would like to see that video
I want to modify my gas caps like you did in the "Honda EU2200i EU2000i extended Fuel range Make your own gas caps" video. The stem on my original shutoff valve is 18/64 so it seems like a 23/64 bit would remove a lot more material than your video shows. What is the diameter of your original stem?
I just bought a 2020 Honda EU2200i TAG Bluetooth generator. Based on your comments, it seems my cap is different from the one in your video. Do you know what size drill bit I should use to ream out my cap, and will the part you listed above for 2014 and newer (¼" barb x 1/8" NPT Male Pipe) fit this newer cap? Thanks! Your videos are great.
I have not had an opportunity to have my hands on a eu2200i but they should be identical to the newer eu2000i caps. You can buy caps already made these days amzn.to/2WJ9541
@@sixtyfiveford Thanks for the quick reply. All of the EU2200 models have serial numbers that start with: "EAMT-" which is different from all the other Honda gen models. The gas cap part# for all the EU2200's is 17620-Z44-A30, which is unique to all, and only the EU2200's. So, it seems that any cap that will fit any of the other models may not be a good fit for the EU2200. And from what I've read, if it doesn't have a good seal at the gen gas tank, the fuel pump won't suck gas :-(
Here's a link to a page with all of the Honda gen models with part diagrams and part numbers: www.hondapowersportsparts.com/oemparts/c/honda_power_equipment_generator_eu_series/parts
I am not getting gas to come up from the auxilliary container...I filled to generator's tank right up to the top of the fill hole. Does the line have to be primed? Does this mean I may have an air leak? If so, maybe use some silicone caulk or teflon tape on the petcock's threads?
Thanks Tony.
Very nice video. I'm going to try making one as well. Couple of questions:
1. I only have a 22/64" or a 24/64" (3/8") drill bit, could I use the 22/64" instead of the 23/64" drill bit that you used in your video?
2. I already have a 3/8" marine style fuel line and was wondering would that be too loose. Was your 1/4" fuel line a snug fit?
Thanks!
Nice mods and hacks all around. Thanks!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Hey Moe, Nice set up using the fan.
+Joe Fann Hey thanks. It seems to work very well.
This is the best and most simple modification i have seen for the EU2000I.
I have been looking for the right petcock, but haven`t found it yet, can you tell me where i can buy this, or the part number, so i will know exactly which part i`m looking for?
Great Video,,,Regards>
Bill Watts 399517 is the Briggs and Stratton part number
sixtyfiveford
Man, you`re fast :) ,,,thanks for the info,,,Dave
When the gen pulls fuel from the aux fuel tank does it maintain the current fuel level that is in the gen's fuel tank (if you have a 1/2 tank it maintains the 1/2 tank) or does it fill the tank to the top? Just wondering if I would need to disconnect the aux tank and let the gen run for a while before I shut it off.
Jim VanGieson It will keep the level the same. The fuel that is being used sucks the same volume in to replace it. If anything it may be a miniscule amount lower.
Thank you very much.
Love your set up with the fan and the exhaust extension!
I read your prior comment below but still don't quite understand what's keeping the extension exhaust pipe from getting too hot to the touch.
Could you please clarify: you welded a 1" long piece onto the existing muffler , then added another free rolling longer and larger 3/4" diameter pipe over that to extend out to your shed/box vent? It's not a typo that the initial pipe you welded is only 1 inch long tacked onto the original muffler and not longer? Because im visualizing 2 full length pipes, one outside the other with air between the two to keep the pipe from being scorching hot.
And you mentioned about screws or was it bolts to temporarily tighten the pipe. So holes need to be drilled into the pipe? What are thosr screw/bolt tightened against?
Lastly, is that a galvanized water pipe, or a metal conduit? Thanks so much in advance!
It's just cheap electrical conduit. I have 1" of pipe welded to the Honda muffler. I then can add any length of pipe to that and use a set screw to hold it in place. I put a larger piece of pipe over the length of pipe to reduce heat in some areas. I use bolts going through the side of the larger pipe that go in and touch the inner pipe as a stand off. You could also just use fiberglass exhaust heat wrap to wrap the pipe.
@@sixtyfiveford , got it! Thanks for taking the time to clarify that for me. Wishing you an amazing day!
I have a 3 or 4 year old EU2000. Bought all the parts before taking the cap apart. The cap is completely redesigned from the one in the video. The shut off valve is too shallow to be threaded into the cap. Needs more thought on how to make it work.
So when you running this do you leave the gas can vented, or is it vacuum sealed like the generator caps? I have heard your supposed to vent the gas can while the generator needs to be vacuume sealed. If the gas can isn't vacuumed sealed, how would it create vacuumed to pull from the gas can to the generator. Also can you leave the generator completely full and have it pull from the gas can without overflowing. Thank you for your time
The aux gas can is vented. The Honda tanks are sealed except for the port going into the fuel of the aux tank.
Yes, you fill the generator tank all the way up then attach the setup.
@@sixtyfiveford thank you so much. I'm excited to try mine out
will drilling a hole in the cap void any/all of your warranty ? Also, what tips/suggestion would you give the owner of a new eu2000 who has yet to start/run it ?
A.N. conley You're not ruining the cap and it can be put right back to original. You can buy replacement caps or you can buy aluminum caps with a port already in them. If you can find a gas station with ethanol free gas, use it and you wont and have any issues with your machine. www.pure-gas.org will show you local stations with e-free
Thanks heaps sixtyfiveford !!! I'll be cranking it up tomorrow Got the straight gas and good oil. Plan on converting it next week.
These are the best out there. You'll be happy with your purchase.
Nice video and very easy to follow instructions.
+Philip Johnson Thanks, glad it helped.
Thanks for the excellent explanation!
Awesome! ! Good idea. Other RUclips guy adds a fuel kill switch so we can burn all fuel up to keep carburetor clean.
Honda has a fuel bowl drain on the carb already. Open the side cover and turn the flat head screw on the carb bowl and everything drains.
@@sixtyfiveford Ok, I'll check tomorrow. I heard there's a drain tube so the gas doesn't drain/spill all over the generator. Someone says after that open choke and pull start cord a couple times to clear the jets too.
Great idea! Nice Honda generators too! Like I always say, can't beat a Honda!
good video, I also liked the exhaust extensions...
Thanks. The setup has worked out very well.
As for exhaust extensions do you have a video how to? I wanted to do some research of putting the generator in the shed/ garage . Putting inside on near shared living space does not seem to be a good idea as CO gas is sneaky dangerous.
Thank you for your videos once again!
thanks for the share, curious, what's the point of the two genny's?
They're smaller, more compact and easier to move around. So you can just grab one 75 lb generator by hand and move it around easily.
@@sixtyfiveford sure, but you're still limited to 2000W draw or is there a way to combine both?
@@bikeninja956 Yeah, they combine with parallel cords and give you 4000W peak.
@@sixtyfiveford oh snap. Nice.
Thanks
Is the o-ring necessary? Since it's a pipe thread, it should have a good seal.
Great info and a great setup
Dang reliable Hondas.
Nice job. I'm curious how what did you use to extend the exhausts? I need to extend mine, and saw your video.
SWEET nicely done just wondered if you have your pull start chord fraying mine is and only 2yrs old. Not looking forward to replacing it..
+Raven4122 I'll have to say this is one of the few things I haven't had to replace a pull start on. It definitely wont be fun. The instinct with these Hondas is to pull the cord upwards at an angle. It cuts grooves into the plastic and frays the cord. The cord should be pulled straight out horizontally to avoid this.
that is how i do start it, another video addressed this issue, it frays right where it goes in the actual recoil part. Another quick question, mine used to start 2 pulls max when cold now it seams 4-5 pulls.. any ideas to get it back to 2 pull max? it is 2 yrs old..
Raven4122
The ethanol in your gasoline is slowly tarnishing the carburetor parts. It will soon need a carb cleaning. You can also switch to ethanol free gasoline to prevent this ( www.pure-gas.org will list your local stations) If the cord is fraying and your pulling horizontal; the eyelet in the housing has a bur on it.
I didnt think ethenol left a tarnish I know regular fuel does, I used to race and used ethenol never had any issues with it..ill check it out though thanks.
The ethanol by itself doesn't but since it is hydroscopic it pulls moisture from the air and sinks it the base of the carb bowl/gas tank. The water stays mixed with the ethanol and keeps it separated. This mixture tarnishes the brass jets and causes difficulty starting.
Hey, thanks for posting! Lots of great ideas here.
+canamm Hey Thanks.
Why didn't you go with the harbor freight one? Great video!
Love2boat92 Loud... very loud.
sixtyfiveford Oh. That makes sense.
Yeah, they charge a lot for the Hondas but if you have to live next to your generator(RV or camper) sound it everything. People have had good luck with those HF units.
sixtyfiveford Yeah good point. I'd love to get one of the harbor freight inverter generators but they're a lot of money. The 900 watt one is more in my price range.
Your too kind.
Great tips with the Hondas , Do you have a video how to extend the exhaust by chance ?
I simply welded a 1" pipe nipple over the exhaust outlet. The nipple protrudes about 1/2" from the plastic housing and I can insert longer pipe(in this case electrical conduit) of any length.
@@sixtyfiveford Great idea, I was wondering if anybody ever tried threading the muffler and possibly adding a quick connect , Thank you so much for taking the to write and reply .
Very cool Love your vids
You're a creative and smart fellow...thanks!
Thanks for watching.
Thanks -Moe
3/8 fuel line is too big. I would use the 22/64" and wobble it around a little to slightly enlarge the hole.
thanks for great video. Question: how do I remove the generator
cap tether? Cut it? pull hard?
Thanks!
Chris
Does this work the same with the EU3000is? The gas cap looks the same, but I see some kits that have an extra hose attached from the gas cap to something on the face of the 3000. Thanks for the tutorial!
I think its in the oil gauge inlet to create vacume.
this dude is awesome.
Good idea. . Good tip.
Why don’t you just covert it to run on propane and get 6 times the run time? I used one by Hutch Mountain. I can get up to 30 hours from a BBQ propane tank. You can run either propane or gasoline. And no pouring gas in the dark!
Why not use a marine fuel tank?
Hey Thanks Man.
I powered my house (half the panel) for 2 years and 4 months while we were waiting for PG&E to get their engineering closer to us.… I owned a pool of three EU2000i generators at one point, with usually two working and one not. The unit would run on average 8-10 hours a day. HERE'S A TIP for those of you that are going to run this generator for extended periods of time. Take the original plug out(careful with this, you can lose the plug down the inner engine shrouds), take it to the auto parts store and have them sell you a plug that is one heat-range step HOTTER. Problem is that carbon will eventually build up heavily on the face of the piston, when it gets really really bad, a piece of carbon will chip off and foul the exhaust valve and then you have no compression, the only solution then is to overhaul the internals of the engine which is very expensive unless you do it yourself. (I've gotten so I can tear this engine down and have the piston completely out in about an hour.) After I WORE OUT the first one (dealer told me it was junk) I became a religious user of Castrol full-synthetic.
It's a good idea to Read your plug every once in a while. Not everyone will benefit nor need a hotter plug. Depending on your elevation the oxygen percentage is going to change and you will have a higher or lower input compared to your carb fuel jetting(richer or leaner). Simple things like a dirty air filter will cause a rich situation and carbon buildup. Also the average outside temperature or how confined of space they are used in plays a rule in choosing a plug. Also whether or not you run eco throttle a lot (the more you run eco throttle the higher chance of carbon buildup).
Honda generalizes the specs and gives the same parameters for everyone. They have a fixed jet carb that delivers the exact same amount of fuel from sea level to 5000 feet (which has 16% less oxygen). At that point they recommend a high altitude jet which delivers less fuel to match the oxygen level. Which is not the best. So it was great that you "read" your plug and addressed the issue.
Great video. Can you make a video on your extended exhaust system? keep up the good work, thanks.
+Bj G Hey Thanks. I just welded a small piece of pipe(1" length) over the stock exhaust hole. Then I slide another piece of longer pipe into that.
Thank you
Thanks..
What about EU2,200 Honda generators. Will this still work?
I appreciate your video. I have the newer Honda generator with Companion. Can you give me the details how to convert that gas cap and adjustments I need to make vs your video? Also I believe my Hondas are supposed to run 8 hours, not 4. Is that true and is it because they made a bigger tank or what? Thanks again.
I put detailed instructions in the video description for the newer style gas caps. They will run 4-8hours depending on the load applied. The gas tanks are the same size from old to new models.
You don't address the newer cap. What size drill bit, which petcock, etc. I would like to do the operation so please post the pertinent info. Thanks