Nice job, Mark! I might have made the time to cover a Barbarossa, as there seems to be no end to the questions about it on BGG. Good, clear explanations!
Very good video. One thing I would have mentioned is that there are NO land units in the game. A lot of wargamers will be looking for wooden cubes or counters to represent armies.
Game looks great, looking forward to breaking this one out. Just finished up with Europe Engulfed on the table so hopefully this rules read will be much easier after watching your video. Seems like a really easy and fun system to play.
Hi Mark. A little late to comment, but I just got the game yesterday. I've watched your video in advance. Great introduction. Maybe the best I have ever seen to any game. But I have a question that I don't seem to find answers for in the rulebook. When you add an event to a conflict. Let's say an attack resolution. And both sides have added some events. Which side will apply their events first. The active player or the deactive player? For examble the active player can reroll dice. Either because they played an 11-12-13 conflict card. Or played an event like Tiger tanks, that lets them adjust one of their dice to a 5. The defending player added an event card that let's them make the active player reroll the best dice once again. To hopefully let them roll a lesser number. It does matter a great deal, who gets to choose events first and who gets to react?
From 6.0, Conflict Resolution: Step 1: Play Event Cards. Both players may play as many Events from their Held Cards Area as they wish. The Acting Player selects his Events first, then the Reacting Player. Playing Event Cards is optional-you may choose to play none or as many as allowed. Step 2: Choose then reveal Conflict Cards simultaneously. Step 3 is to determine dice from all the cards and Step 4 is to roll them at the same time. Then, specifically in Step 5: “The Acting Player applies the effects in this step first, then the Reacting Player. Certain Events, e.g., Counterattack, can be played after all dice have been rolled.” Hope that helps!
@@buetowmt That was fast. Thanks. It looks like it's 7.0 in the 1st edition. But I'll get it. I can update on GMT to see if there is any changes. Thanks again. I would love to see more introductory videos from your hand in the future. You do it so well.
Great overview! One question (note that I haven't read the rules yet): at about 27:10 the Allies played the Major-General 10 Soviet card to defend Yugoslavia - is this allowed, when Gen Mongomery Event is also played (as it doesn't have a red star)?
Yes, generally. There are some restrictions about which cards may be used where (for Allies), yes, once you draw, you'll choose which cards you'll use in Conflict Resolution.
Thanks! I can\t believe that you answered and so quickly. Your help means a great deal to me. I am retired and want to really enjoy this game..and I thank you for your expert help.
I thought you can only have 1 blitzkrieg attack per turn? Operation Overlord allows you to have two blitzkriegs without depleting the hand. Am I misunderstanding the rules?
A Blitzkrieg potentially adds three more land attacks after a successful land area attack. In Overlord, if the Amphibious attack succeeds, you can take two more Land Area attacks. You can't use Blitzkrieg during Overlord. (The extra attacks are not Blitzkreig; they are part of the Operation).
Not sure if anyone gives a shit but if you guys are stoned like me atm you can watch pretty much all of the latest movies and series on InstaFlixxer. I've been watching with my girlfriend lately :)
There are some special rules regarding the Vichy territory in North Africa, specifically when it can be activated (by Allied attacks or an Event card).
Nice review. After one play of the game I'm just not convinced. First, a big detractor is the lackluster map. It looks like something a kid from the 1980's could have drawn. The map is not engaging for me nor the person I played against. In today's day and age thats just unacceptable with all of the graphics technology and tools available. Second, there are no military units. You get some black cubes, disks, and 'sticks'. These playing pieces are very disappointing. My question to my opponent was, could the designer have done any less with the pieces? How about a nice graphic at least on them? The cards I admit are well done. Good symbology that was intuitive for us. Liked the pictures on them as well. Gameplay wasn't engaging. If anything could have made this game work for me, it would be the gameplay. Although I liked the idea of Blitzkrieg and Big Push, it wasn't enough. When resolving battle, each player rolls 3 dice and adds the value of a conflict card. So number one you can imagine that a lot of variability exists with the roll of 3 dice. But the strangest thing is the type of conflict cards. For example, the Axis hand has an equal number of German and Italian cards. In what aspect of WW2 could history consider the Germans and Italians as equals? It's odd that the designer did this. The Allied player has an equal number of Soviet and US cards. Odd also. No cards representing the UK. Soviet cards can be played in places other than the Soviet Union and that don't border/connect to the Soviet Union. I just don't like that. Overall I'm feeling like this game was a poor use of limited gaming dollars.
I have to agree with you on the art design of this. That is often the #1 thing that catches someone's eye (aside from theme) and this does not say "Spend $65 on me!" I'm relatively new to wargames, but coming from the world of Euro-style boardgames, I'm spoiled in terms of art and production value. Honestly I was shocked the first few times I saw wargames, which are often $20-$40 more than your average boardgame, and the graphic design was so basic. We live in the age of custom meeples and advanced graphic design, and companies are still producing games with colored cubes and maps that look like they're out of a 1992 school textbook! Of course there are some beautiful games out there....I'm just wondering why so many go with a basic look and don't even try to take advantage of modern programs. Case in point, there is an upcoming re-release in 2019 of a magazine game published in 1988. The map for the game looks actually looks MORE plain than the 1988 original. I don't even know how that's possible, but there you go.
I read the rulebook and I think I know less about the game than I did before reading it.
The rules are genuinely terrible.
Like game...
"Rulebook". I doubt that one was final upon release. A new 2ed one out now though!
Thanks, Mark! This game just arrived today, so I thought I'd watch this video before looking at the rules.
Nice job, Mark! I might have made the time to cover a Barbarossa, as there seems to be no end to the questions about it on BGG. Good, clear explanations!
That was a great overview. Well done by the camera lady also. Subbed.
Excellent video. Really nailed it. Are you going to do any additional videos?
Very good video. One thing I would have mentioned is that there are NO land units in the game. A lot of wargamers will be looking for wooden cubes or counters to represent armies.
Game looks great, looking forward to breaking this one out. Just finished up with Europe Engulfed on the table so hopefully this rules read will be much easier after watching your video. Seems like a really easy and fun system to play.
Great overview Mark. Will help us get started. Keep it up!
Great job! More videos Mark!
Subbed. Long-time gamer here. Good pacing, good comments, and zero "verbal mannerisms." Well done.
Well done! I would love to see a whole playthru too.
Hi Mark. A little late to comment, but I just got the game yesterday. I've watched your video in advance. Great introduction. Maybe the best I have ever seen to any game. But I have a question that I don't seem to find answers for in the rulebook. When you add an event to a conflict. Let's say an attack resolution. And both sides have added some events. Which side will apply their events first. The active player or the deactive player? For examble the active player can reroll dice. Either because they played an 11-12-13 conflict card. Or played an event like Tiger tanks, that lets them adjust one of their dice to a 5. The defending player added an event card that let's them make the active player reroll the best dice once again. To hopefully let them roll a lesser number. It does matter a great deal, who gets to choose events first and who gets to react?
From 6.0, Conflict Resolution:
Step 1: Play Event Cards. Both players may play as many Events from their Held Cards Area as they wish. The Acting Player selects his Events first, then the Reacting Player. Playing Event Cards is optional-you may choose to play none or as many as allowed.
Step 2: Choose then reveal Conflict Cards simultaneously.
Step 3 is to determine dice from all the cards and Step 4 is to roll them at the same time.
Then, specifically in Step 5:
“The Acting Player applies the effects in this step first, then the Reacting Player. Certain Events, e.g., Counterattack, can be played after all dice have been rolled.”
Hope that helps!
@@buetowmt That was fast. Thanks. It looks like it's 7.0 in the 1st edition. But I'll get it. I can update on GMT to see if there is any changes. Thanks again. I would love to see more introductory videos from your hand in the future. You do it so well.
Great shirt, my friend. That's one I wear all the time
Great overview! One question (note that I haven't read the rules yet): at about 27:10 the Allies played the Major-General 10 Soviet card to defend Yugoslavia - is this allowed, when Gen Mongomery Event is also played (as it doesn't have a red star)?
I believe that is only the case when defending an area that was originally Soviet.
Thank you! Just what i needed!
I understand selecting new conflict ards from your disposal stack, but when do you draw new cards from the unused position of the deck?
You refill your hand after a conflict of any sort.
You have a nice clear style. Thank you. Hope you too treated yourself to a nice cup of coffee afterwards. You do like coffee right? 😉
I purchased this game because it says it works solitaire. Have you played it such and if so, how well did it work? Thanks, nice video!
I have not played it solo but I believe the 'Bot is supposed to be pretty good.
THX...ready to play!
after we randomly select our conflick cards. then can we select from those drawn any card we like to use?
Yes, generally. There are some restrictions about which cards may be used where (for Allies), yes, once you draw, you'll choose which cards you'll use in Conflict Resolution.
Thanks! I can\t believe that you answered and so quickly. Your help means a great deal to me. I am retired and want to really enjoy this game..and I thank you for your expert help.
@@fredjensen1683 You're welcome!
@@buetowmt can we only use 1 event card per action?
I believe it depends on the type of Event card.
I thought you can only have 1 blitzkrieg attack per turn? Operation Overlord allows you to have two blitzkriegs without depleting the hand. Am I misunderstanding the rules?
A Blitzkrieg potentially adds three more land attacks after a successful land area attack. In Overlord, if the Amphibious attack succeeds, you can take two more Land Area attacks. You can't use Blitzkrieg during Overlord. (The extra attacks are not Blitzkreig; they are part of the Operation).
@@buetowmt Oh! That makes much more sense now. Got it. Imma try to use blitzkrieg more often now.
you said both axil and allies start with the same number of conflict cards? Don't we have axils 8 cards and allies 6 cards?
The main game it's Axis 8 and Allies 6. Apologies if I misspoke.
Yugoslavia looks like it would be really important in this game, being adjacent to two(?) Axis 'oil' spaces and two spaces away from Berlin.
"then Hitler's Reich will fall"... love it
Not sure if anyone gives a shit but if you guys are stoned like me atm you can watch pretty much all of the latest movies and series on InstaFlixxer. I've been watching with my girlfriend lately :)
@Bjorn Martin definitely, been watching on InstaFlixxer for months myself :)
Love it!
Thanks a lot, 👍
Thank you.
What about vici france?
There are some special rules regarding the Vichy territory in North Africa, specifically when it can be activated (by Allied attacks or an Event card).
Really? How does one get one's wife to play war games with them?
No way in hell my beloved wife will even consider it...lol!
Lucky guy!
The BIG 'E' A&A I can't even get my wife to play a board game let alone a wargame.
Ik for a fact a requirement needed to be my wife is that she has to enjoy boardgames/wargames.
Nice review. After one play of the game I'm just not convinced. First, a big detractor is the lackluster map. It looks like something a kid from the 1980's could have drawn. The map is not engaging for me nor the person I played against. In today's day and age thats just unacceptable with all of the graphics technology and tools available. Second, there are no military units. You get some black cubes, disks, and 'sticks'. These playing pieces are very disappointing. My question to my opponent was, could the designer have done any less with the pieces? How about a nice graphic at least on them? The cards I admit are well done. Good symbology that was intuitive for us. Liked the pictures on them as well. Gameplay wasn't engaging. If anything could have made this game work for me, it would be the gameplay. Although I liked the idea of Blitzkrieg and Big Push, it wasn't enough. When resolving battle, each player rolls 3 dice and adds the value of a conflict card. So number one you can imagine that a lot of variability exists with the roll of 3 dice. But the strangest thing is the type of conflict cards. For example, the Axis hand has an equal number of German and Italian cards. In what aspect of WW2 could history consider the Germans and Italians as equals? It's odd that the designer did this. The Allied player has an equal number of Soviet and US cards. Odd also. No cards representing the UK. Soviet cards can be played in places other than the Soviet Union and that don't border/connect to the Soviet Union. I just don't like that. Overall I'm feeling like this game was a poor use of limited gaming dollars.
I have to agree with you on the art design of this. That is often the #1 thing that catches someone's eye (aside from theme) and this does not say "Spend $65 on me!" I'm relatively new to wargames, but coming from the world of Euro-style boardgames, I'm spoiled in terms of art and production value. Honestly I was shocked the first few times I saw wargames, which are often $20-$40 more than your average boardgame, and the graphic design was so basic. We live in the age of custom meeples and advanced graphic design, and companies are still producing games with colored cubes and maps that look like they're out of a 1992 school textbook! Of course there are some beautiful games out there....I'm just wondering why so many go with a basic look and don't even try to take advantage of modern programs. Case in point, there is an upcoming re-release in 2019 of a magazine game published in 1988. The map for the game looks actually looks MORE plain than the 1988 original. I don't even know how that's possible, but there you go.
OK Review. You go off on too many tangents while explaining a certain action.
Thanks for the feedback. Do you have a particular example of that? It wasn't really meant as a review, more as a how to play and overview though.
thx Mark, great overview
You're welcome! Glad it was helpful.