Cody, I guarantee that no one is picking apart your work, but most are simply glad to see a man who is trying to produce, rather than always consume... You are showing an example of what a man can do, and to be innovative, creative, and to use what you have to create what you need. Great job!
Had you thought about putting some kind of set pin in the seat slide so that people with shorter legs wouldn't be scooting back as they push on the treadle. Just an idea. :)
Wranglerstar, you continue to amaze me with your incredible talent for woodwork and content creation. Also, you're willing to critique your own work--that takes character! Thank you for doing what you do! Regards, Project Farm!
Cody, the steel discs on the pivot points would be better termed as spacers as the really bear no weight or force when clamping. However, a true bearing would be a great idea so that the all thread doesn't dig into the wood. A properly sized piece of conduit would be a good, inexpensive solution for this. This will be a great tool to have in the future.
Wow! This is probably the nicest Shave horse build I have seen yet! I know you see and know every Imperfection.. because your the one that built it. I go through the same thing as does every woodworker. Most people will never know or see what you see. It's a work of Art. That's a build to definately be proud of. It will serve you and your family for generations. Nicely done!! Cheers 🇨🇦
Great job Cody. I like the ratcheting mount. When I have to bolt wood like you have done on the clamp arms I have used split ring lock washers to act as springs and take up the slack of the wood drying out. That way when the humidity goes up and the wood swells I have that spring action to let the wood move a bit without crushing against the hardware.
Hey Cody I think it came out great. As far as mistakes go. Well, it's a tool, hand made. That's awesome in itself, as long as you can accomplish the tasks that you need to (and I'm sure you will for many years ) that's what counts. Great job!
My Uncle Ernie used a shave horse and had a small board on the top piece of the clamp that had a leather strop mounted so that he could (in doing a lot of carving) could stop a moment and pull the edge of the draw knife over to keep the wire edge down and so have the sharpest edge to work with. Your horse is simple, clean, and beautiful, green wood or not, lovely bit of work there, its a great design!
adding a notch on the upper part of the clamp will also help in holding square stock on the diagonal. If you place it on one corner it can be rotated out of the way when not needed.
You may see your mistakes, but I think most of your viewers see your workmanship for what it is. It's what keeps me coming back to watch and learn all the more. Mike
I suspect the pressure on the bolt/axle will wear the holes in the two arms fairly quickly. the steel washers and wax are a good idea but a simple brass bushing from the hardware store, glued into each arm would prevent any normal wear on the inside holes. Just a suggestion.
hand addition to your shop. keep in mind green wood for lathe projects warp and split often. This wont really work for timber framing lumber but for the lathe rough turn it over sized. The put it in the microwave for 30 to 60 seconds then let it cool down for a couple hours and repeat until it stops losing much weight or use a moisture meter.
If you go down the boat shop you can pick up a a roller 9 inches long roughly you can use it for your board piece that you clamp down to stop it on your plate keep the wood from sliding. This is suggestion you might like it better it is soft enough but yet it will grip without putting a ring or Mark in your wood
Very cool! Gives one a lot of ideas. The horses I've used before were primitive, field-expedient and then left at the site (think: half log with branch legs). Problems: 1) Tradle is going to bust-out (lag too close to bottom, not centered) 2) I would have used a nylock on the axle, because "wood is never dry, its just drier, or not so dry" (Gramps) 3) would have cleaned up the big washers first (less work), its the ONLY time I've seen you be impatient! 4) if your top jaw is turned "long part up" I predict it will split from the pressure (think of the leverage) 5) I like the adjustable work top but I suspect its gonna end up being the "adjustable work item size" where the work level is going to be the same no matter who uses it...don't worry, your boy will grow plenty, and soon! 6) I would have made the tradle 1" higher off the ground to engage the ball of the foot...I can't engage a heel or arch type implement all day, youch! Thanks for the vids!
Cody, you could use a couple of " nylon insert lock nuts" and you can adjust them to whatever tightness you like. They are cheap enough. Any good hardware store should carry them.
I think I'm gonna make one of these... but I'm gonna add a seat back, a cup holder, and a power strip with a stand in front for my PC. Then I can work, relax and enjoy a refreshing beverage all while watching Cody's videos all at the same time!
Dear Cody, congratulations on an excellent build of some novel approaches to a shave horse. I do like the adjustable baseplate with a toothed gearing for adjustment. You have a rectangular piece on cross section at the head to provide pressure for your work. Most other people use a circular piece in cross section and I wondered why you chose that? One thing that would really make your choice advantageous is if on different faces you leave one flat, insert a small v-groove for small round work in face #2, a larger V-groove in face #3 for larger round and a gentle concave for face #4 for oval profiles pieces. That way, choosing the appropriate gripping face will induce the least amount of damage to the workpiece from holding. Cheers.
Have been wanting to make a shave horse for years. Thank you for posting. Have never seen that type of ratcheting height adjustment before, but I like it! This just might be the year I get busy and make one, and then maybe a bow
Hello Mr. Cody, Your shaving horse turned out real nice, don’t look so close as to see all the imperfections but enjoy it as something you made. Be proud!
Just a suggestion you might want to shave the hard wood hold down block into an octagon and groove one side to hold round stock so to not damage the surfaces. Wonderful video sir.
Two thoughts for you Cody, use bronze bushings in your clamp pivot points to save to wood. Second install a cross brace in the lower part of the treadal to help transfer clamping pressure when using one foot.
I often find mistakes in my own work to Cody. What makes a difference for me is that if I find a mistake and i know i did my best i take it as learning. thanks you for your effort Cody. apreciate your videos. Blessings from Norway
I'm the same way! lol I always call my wife into the room and show her what I have done. When she's excited and her face lights up it's the most wonderful of moments to experience, but if she doesn't understand the value of what I've done or she's not very impressed with it for whatever reason, that can be quite deflating.
SInce You designed the upper element as a rotable rectangle... and there's a groove in the lower element to hold the round objects or to use it to hold the "diamond section" - maybe a little groove in the upper element would work as well to increase the hold on the "diamond". You could use it in normal position every now and then and when necessary, rotate it 180 degrees...
The all thread will wear the wood holes when turning in wood. The threads will act like the flutes on a drill. A thin wall bushing or thread the ends of a piece of round bar will help prevent wear. Great job, now I'm gona have to build one.
Something that may be cool is adding a dowel all the way through your pivoting boards a few inches above the treadle, and then you could then use the top of your foot to open the clamp. Just an idea I thought I would put out there! Best Wishes!
for the part that clamps down the wood you can just drill a hole straight through and instead of screws put a piece of thin round bar steel with a 90 degree on one end. That way you can change position of it really quick and it can rotate freely. Great videos my friend!
Cody, love the SH, looks really good. Would adding leather to the top not sure what its called) help better secure the stock? Also, to the bottom (where your feet would push) help "better feel" amount of pressure. As Leather transfer better (more felt than wood). Thanks again for sharing.
I might have missed it, but does the seat just slide or is there a locking mechanism? A locked seat might work better when you or Jack are closer to the workpiece.
The most complicated part is the adjustable bottom part of the vice, how did you design the teeth to take the load of the foot treadle pressure? And the angle of the bottom vise do you end up pulling the shave toward your waist or pulling toward your armpit?
I built a shave horse for myself about six months ago. Mine is not nearly as nice as yours. I sure wish I could have seen your plans, first. Beautiful job.
I prepare material for the embodiment of similar option of a bench, at a seat I will do a fisation of situation with edges on perimeter, and with a spring at the lever of the lower basic rack, and so offset of your bench, without delicacy, it is practical and it is rational. Hind legs were pleasant durability, and noticed that the place of fastening of the top persistent lever to a bench is made more primitively and rationally, but I will try to make to myself as a classical bench with smooth forms. You the good fellow that made the bench and videos shared with colleagues on hobby. hi from Moscow.
sweet need make spoon mule and few saw horses. get barn themed shop going. think already have throw but if ever tried lost foam and melt iron that always useful tool make. or giant chisel for timber framing.
I would suggest using a bolt for the top block instead of the lag screws for easier turning of the block. The threads on the lag screws make the top block move sideways a little as it is rotated. Been there done that. Several top blocks of different shapes might be advantageous.
Very nice tool, I can see how it would be useful. the only thing I would change is the groove. to me, it seems like a 60 or 90 degree v-groove would have broader applicability. but I'm not knocking your design at all, looks nice, tough materials in all the right places, I'm sure you'll get many, many years of great use out of it. I look forward to seeing it put to use!
My wife loves to see my projects when I'm finished too. lol. its always good for the male ego to hear how wonderful something is. I made a bunch of your tree branch crayons and she was amazed. hahaha. The little things. lol. I learn so much from you so thanks for sharing.
It's nice to see an old invention continue to be recreated, nicely done. If the dowel stakes don't ever happen to hold, I hope you're not a vampire! ;)
That is very nice. You are to critical of your work. You make some of the best thing I see on You Tube, you can see you put your heart into everything you build. Yes we make mistakes that is how we learn. I wish I had half your skills. I really look forward to your video's just to learn more and more and when you make a mistake you tell us and we learn. Thank you Cody for and your teaching God has truly blessed you. Hi to the family and God Bless Pete USMC
Great job on the tradel It will make for a great coat rack Lol😁 Might I suggest your next project should be a solar kiln. Then you can kiln dry all your lumber in weeks instead of air drying for years
Nice Job. I know you mentioned a few times about the users legs possibly getting tired holding the tension. Just out of curiosity, how come you didn't go with the style of shave horse where the tension comes from the users weight as they sit?
Wranglerstar, Would adding a spring to provide tension on the treadle to secure the workpiece work ok instead of having to hold it with your feet? I ask because I have disabilities that affect my legs.
Just wondering about how far you need to stretch your legs to reach the treadle if you are sitting all the way back working on a long piece? How much pressure can you apply to hold a long piece in place?
You could put a second nut on the threaded rod to lock it and keep it from moving, they make a nut with a built in nylon washer to "lock" the nut in place.
Very nice! I am not a fan of the metal you used at the end here. Im sure, however, it made life easier. Could you still build the same design without lag bolts and metal bearing pieces?
I have always like your videos and I am always impressed by your work. I would not worry about things being a little tight now. the reason is the more you use it the more it will wear in. just what I think
That looks really neat. Do you plan on putting any type of finish on it or keeping it el natural? Also, could you possibly post the 360 videos on you tube? When viewing them on Facebook with a phone (which is all I've got) it doesn't work properly. It shows up as video with fisheye lens look. Anyway, love your content. Thanks
I d put a small bevel on the clamping edge for a larger surface and less punctual damage to the workpiece. Slightly round it then to fit most sizes and clamping angles.
Cody, I guarantee that no one is picking apart your work, but most are simply glad to see a man who is trying to produce, rather than always consume... You are showing an example of what a man can do, and to be innovative, creative, and to use what you have to create what you need. Great job!
Had you thought about putting some kind of set pin in the seat slide so that people with shorter legs wouldn't be scooting back as they push on the treadle. Just an idea. :)
Wranglerstar, you continue to amaze me with your incredible talent for woodwork and content creation. Also, you're willing to critique your own work--that takes character! Thank you for doing what you do! Regards, Project Farm!
Cody, the steel discs on the pivot points would be better termed as spacers as the really bear no weight or force when clamping. However, a true bearing would be a great idea so that the all thread doesn't dig into the wood. A properly sized piece of conduit would be a good, inexpensive solution for this. This will be a great tool to have in the future.
another option for the top hold down is to adhere leather to one face to get around marking your work piece
perfect use for some of those leather scraps
Will you have plans available. And how will you prevent shrinking and warpage as the green fir dries.
Wow! This is probably the nicest Shave horse build I have seen yet! I know you see and know every Imperfection.. because your the one that built it. I go through the same thing as does every woodworker. Most people will never know or see what you see. It's a work of Art. That's a build to definately be proud of. It will serve you and your family for generations. Nicely done!! Cheers 🇨🇦
Great job Cody. I like the ratcheting mount. When I have to bolt wood like you have done on the clamp arms I have used split ring lock washers to act as springs and take up the slack of the wood drying out. That way when the humidity goes up and the wood swells I have that spring action to let the wood move a bit without crushing against the hardware.
Hey Cody I think it came out great. As far as mistakes go. Well, it's a tool, hand made. That's awesome in itself, as long as you can accomplish the tasks that you need to (and I'm sure you will for many years ) that's what counts. Great job!
My Uncle Ernie used a shave horse and had a small board on the top piece of the clamp that had a leather strop mounted so that he could (in doing a lot of carving) could stop a moment and pull the edge of the draw knife over to keep the wire edge down and so have the sharpest edge to work with. Your horse is simple, clean, and beautiful, green wood or not, lovely bit of work there, its a great design!
adding a notch on the upper part of the clamp will also help in holding square stock on the diagonal. If you place it on one corner it can be rotated out of the way when not needed.
You may see your mistakes, but I think most of your viewers see your workmanship for what it is. It's what keeps me coming back to watch and learn all the more. Mike
the distance between the treadle and the floor is a close shave
Thank you for all the great content Cody
Jam nut it, not red Loctite!
Steve
stuff was thinking the same thing
Yup, exactly what I was thinking. Looks like a bunch of folks are thinking the same. Cody are you listening ?
I was just about to suggest the same thing
Kenneth Bartlett: Not likely
even blue would be better. that think is going to keep moving for a long time yet.....
I suspect the pressure on the bolt/axle will wear the holes in the two arms fairly quickly. the steel washers and wax are a good idea but a simple brass bushing from the hardware store, glued into each arm would prevent any normal wear on the inside holes. Just a suggestion.
PTFE has the lowest coefficient of friction of any solid.
not sure that's true against Stainless Steel. then it tends to slip and stick...
hand addition to your shop. keep in mind green wood for lathe projects warp and split often. This wont really work for timber framing lumber but for the lathe rough turn it over sized. The put it in the microwave for 30 to 60 seconds then let it cool down for a couple hours and repeat until it stops losing much weight or use a moisture meter.
If you go down the boat shop you can pick up a a roller 9 inches long roughly you can use it for your board piece that you clamp down to stop it on your plate keep the wood from sliding. This is suggestion you might like it better it is soft enough but yet it will grip without putting a ring or Mark in your wood
Very cool! Gives one a lot of ideas. The horses I've used before were primitive, field-expedient and then left at the site (think: half log with branch legs). Problems: 1) Tradle is going to bust-out (lag too close to bottom, not centered) 2) I would have used a nylock on the axle, because "wood is never dry, its just drier, or not so dry" (Gramps) 3) would have cleaned up the big washers first (less work), its the ONLY time I've seen you be impatient! 4) if your top jaw is turned "long part up" I predict it will split from the pressure (think of the leverage) 5) I like the adjustable work top but I suspect its gonna end up being the "adjustable work item size" where the work level is going to be the same no matter who uses it...don't worry, your boy will grow plenty, and soon! 6) I would have made the tradle 1" higher off the ground to engage the ball of the foot...I can't engage a heel or arch type implement all day, youch! Thanks for the vids!
Looks and works pretty good Cody ;)
Did you have plans or a design to emulate?
Not sure if someone has mentioned this, but you might want to make a grove in your hold-down block similar to the grove in your work surface there.
Cody, you could use a couple of " nylon insert lock nuts" and you can adjust them to whatever tightness you like. They are cheap enough. Any good hardware store should carry them.
I think I'm gonna make one of these... but I'm gonna add a seat back, a cup holder, and a power strip with a stand in front for my PC. Then I can work, relax and enjoy a refreshing beverage all while watching Cody's videos all at the same time!
Dear Cody, congratulations on an excellent build of some novel approaches to a shave horse. I do like the adjustable baseplate with a toothed gearing for adjustment. You have a rectangular piece on cross section at the head to provide pressure for your work. Most other people use a circular piece in cross section and I wondered why you chose that? One thing that would really make your choice advantageous is if on different faces you leave one flat, insert a small v-groove for small round work in face #2, a larger V-groove in face #3 for larger round and a gentle concave for face #4 for oval profiles pieces. That way, choosing the appropriate gripping face will induce the least amount of damage to the workpiece from holding. Cheers.
Fantastic series so far.
Have been wanting to make a shave horse for years. Thank you for posting. Have never seen that type of ratcheting height adjustment before, but I like it! This just might be the year I get busy and make one, and then maybe a bow
Nice job! It is a completely usable and nicely made. Find some acorn covers for the pivot bolts.
Hello Mr. Cody,
Your shaving horse turned out real nice, don’t look so close as to see all the imperfections but enjoy it as something you made. Be proud!
very handy and versatile...nice
Just a suggestion you might want to shave the hard wood hold down block into an octagon and groove one side to hold round stock so to not damage the surfaces. Wonderful video sir.
Two thoughts for you Cody, use bronze bushings in your clamp pivot points to save to wood. Second install a cross brace in the lower part of the treadal to help transfer clamping pressure when using one foot.
your hold down could benefit from a v notch as well , for rounding square stock , the height adjust and sliding seat idea are very cool ,
This is useful for many things... I've seen these used for making wooden shovels barrels ect. its a great tool! Great job!
I often find mistakes in my own work to Cody. What makes a difference for me is that if I find a mistake and i know i did my best i take it as learning. thanks you for your effort Cody. apreciate your videos. Blessings from Norway
Very nice build. I really enjoy these videos. I'm always learning something.
I'm the same way! lol I always call my wife into the room and show her what I have done. When she's excited and her face lights up it's the most wonderful of moments to experience, but if she doesn't understand the value of what I've done or she's not very impressed with it for whatever reason, that can be quite deflating.
Green wood is always tough. Great job. Thank you for sharing. I build log furniture and always wanted to make one.
SInce You designed the upper element as a rotable rectangle... and there's a groove in the lower element to hold the round objects or to use it to hold the "diamond section" - maybe a little groove in the upper element would work as well to increase the hold on the "diamond". You could use it in normal position every now and then and when necessary, rotate it 180 degrees...
THANKS FOR SHARING!
The all thread will wear the wood holes when turning in wood. The threads will act like the flutes on a drill. A thin wall bushing or thread the ends of a piece of round bar will help prevent wear. Great job, now I'm gona have to build one.
Needs a cup holder for coffee or beer.
How fitting.
Turned out awesome.. very functional
Thanks for sharing!
Awesome Job Buddy!!
nice work Cody!
Something that may be cool is adding a dowel all the way through your pivoting boards a few inches above the treadle, and then you could then use the top of your foot to open the clamp. Just an idea I thought I would put out there! Best Wishes!
for the part that clamps down the wood you can just drill a hole straight through and instead of screws put a piece of thin round bar steel with a 90 degree on one end. That way you can change position of it really quick and it can rotate freely. Great videos my friend!
Amazing tool and an amazing video, great job Mr Wranglerstar!
This is buy far the best shave horse iv seen to build!
nice build for a quicky! cheers.
You sir are one awesome guy. Loving your channel.
Love the work you do
I might wrap the top jaw in a thin piece of leather. When it clamps down, that would add a nice compression feel to it. Nice work!
It's so good to see you doing something quickly and expediently.
I have to do everything that way. Well, almost everything.
Art work, thanks for sharing that
Worked out perfectly!
Great job Mr W!
Cody, love the SH, looks really good. Would adding leather to the top not sure what its called) help better secure the stock? Also, to the bottom (where your feet would push) help "better feel" amount of pressure. As Leather transfer better (more felt than wood). Thanks again for sharing.
I might have missed it, but does the seat just slide or is there a locking mechanism? A locked seat might work better when you or Jack are closer to the workpiece.
Love the finished product
The most complicated part is the adjustable bottom part of the vice, how did you design the teeth to take the load of the foot treadle pressure? And the angle of the bottom vise do you end up pulling the shave toward your waist or pulling toward your armpit?
I built a shave horse for myself about six months ago. Mine is not nearly as nice as yours.
I sure wish I could have seen your plans, first. Beautiful job.
I prepare material for the embodiment of similar option of a bench, at a seat I will do a fisation of situation with edges on perimeter, and with a spring at the lever of the lower basic rack, and so offset of your bench, without delicacy, it is practical and it is rational. Hind legs were pleasant durability, and noticed that the place of fastening of the top persistent lever to a bench is made more primitively and rationally, but I will try to make to myself as a classical bench with smooth forms. You the good fellow that made the bench and videos shared with colleagues on hobby. hi from Moscow.
Good afternoon. Do you have the blueprints for sale?
Maybe add a groove top one side of the top clamp thing y to match the one on the bottom. Pretty cool.
I thought I would never need a Shaving Horse. You just changed my mine! Awesome Job and Thank You!
one of the more remarkable things we've seen you build. good work, cody
sweet need make spoon mule and few saw horses. get barn themed shop going. think already have throw but if ever tried lost foam and melt iron that always useful tool make. or giant chisel for timber framing.
I would suggest using a bolt for the top block instead of the lag screws for easier turning of the block. The threads on the lag screws make the top block move sideways a little as it is rotated. Been there done that. Several top blocks of different shapes might be advantageous.
Cody, possibly you have answered this. Wont the threaded rod chew away on the wood which it passes through?
Thanks for the video
Very nice tool, I can see how it would be useful. the only thing I would change is the groove. to me, it seems like a 60 or 90 degree v-groove would have broader applicability. but I'm not knocking your design at all, looks nice, tough materials in all the right places, I'm sure you'll get many, many years of great use out of it.
I look forward to seeing it put to use!
What’s up Mr. W do you by any chance have any plans or drawings for the Shave Horse?
I do not understand anything of your language, but your works are extremely didactic and surpass the language. Greetings from Bs As, Argentina
Use a nylock nut or a locknut not loctite then you can adjust when needed.
My wife loves to see my projects when I'm finished too. lol. its always good for the male ego to hear how wonderful something is. I made a bunch of your tree branch crayons and she was amazed. hahaha. The little things. lol. I learn so much from you so thanks for sharing.
It's nice to see an old invention continue to be recreated, nicely done. If the dowel stakes don't ever happen to hold, I hope you're not a vampire! ;)
That is very nice. You are to critical of your work. You make some of the best thing I see on You Tube, you can see you put your heart into everything you build. Yes we make mistakes that is how we learn. I wish I had half your skills. I really look forward to your video's just to learn more and more and when you make a mistake you tell us and we learn. Thank you Cody for and your teaching God has truly blessed you. Hi to the family and God Bless Pete USMC
Great job on the tradel
It will make for a great coat rack Lol😁
Might I suggest your next project should be a solar kiln. Then you can kiln dry all your lumber in weeks instead of air drying for years
Sure came out nice!
Nice Job. I know you mentioned a few times about the users legs possibly getting tired holding the tension. Just out of curiosity, how come you didn't go with the style of shave horse where the tension comes from the users weight as they sit?
Wranglerstar, Would adding a spring to provide tension on the treadle to secure the workpiece work ok instead of having to hold it with your feet?
I ask because I have disabilities that affect my legs.
wonder if one could install a spring on the treadle so your legs would be free and a handle on top for to release the work ?
Mr. Wranglerstar, am I mistaken, or is the wax you used to lubricate your pivot washers the same wax that you use on your tin pants?
Do you have or know where I can get a copy of the plans used o make this? Including a bill of materials, too, please..
this is an interesting design were did you get plans or did you just do a frankenstein for it I like it
It looks very nice and functional. the squeak of that lock would drive me nuts in short order.
Wouldn't you want the top of that clamp to be a soft wood so It's not marring your project? Or would a piece of thick leather suffice?
Just wondering about how far you need to stretch your legs to reach the treadle if you are sitting all the way back working on a long piece? How much pressure can you apply to hold a long piece in place?
You could put a second nut on the threaded rod to lock it and keep it from moving, they make a nut with a built in nylon washer to "lock" the nut in place.
Seems like its gonna be really useful
Nice job on your Shaving Horse Cody ;)
Very nice! I am not a fan of the metal you used at the end here. Im sure, however, it made life easier. Could you still build the same design without lag bolts and metal bearing pieces?
I have always like your videos and I am always impressed by your work. I would not worry about things being a little tight now. the reason is the more you use it the more it will wear in. just what I think
That looks really neat. Do you plan on putting any type of finish on it or keeping it el natural? Also, could you possibly post the 360 videos on you tube? When viewing them on Facebook with a phone (which is all I've got) it doesn't work properly. It shows up as video with fisheye lens look. Anyway, love your content. Thanks
Do you have plans for this build?
I d put a small bevel on the clamping edge for a larger surface and less punctual damage to the workpiece. Slightly round it then to fit most sizes and clamping angles.
great content. love your videos💪👍✌️️
What happned to the $200 tool box Cody. Is it complete, and did you give it to the winner?