thanks for all the info instead of just running the car every weekend the way it is and dealing with a ill handling car sometimes is good your willing to share your experience. keep it up
All depends on driver..old school drivers like to drive off RF so they run a stiffer RF spring the less split u have n front springs the free or loose the car will be on entry.. running a stiffer spring on LF is called hillbilly style which makes for a loose or free car but free is fast! Me I’m running 50lbs if split up front n a 250LR n 225 rr
Too stiff on rf can make car push going in crazy as it seems that’s why I like very little split n front so when I enter turn it rotates til I get back n throttle..
As a new driver, I have really been watching these videos. What length of springs do you use in the back. I have 13" and 16". Is it possible to use the 16" that is 175 on the RR and use a 200 or 250 on the left rear? I ask cause I am burning my right rear tire like crazy and feel I have no traction. Please help! Thank you!
You will get different opinions on this some say shorter springs to reduce weight but there is always the risk of coil bind. I am a firm believer in the longer springs to reduce the risk of coil bind while also giving you more travel. Now I may be wrong on this but I think long springs run into the risk of bowing out of shape. This was a setup on a A-mod back in the 90's and a metric GM frame. We use 9 inch springs on the front 900 lb on the right and 800 lb on the left. The rear spring I believe was 15 inch coils on a mono leaf suspension the mono's left and right was 50 lb the right rear coil was 125 lb and the left rear was 175 lb. We had a 100 lb split in the front and a 50 lb in the rear. It worked really well cars have change so much now this combination may be junk but it was to give an idea.
We have a lot more dynamic cross during braking from weight being higher up transferring to the right side. Also some modifieds have brake floater bars shoving up on the chassis in the Lr to load rf during braking.
Not always.. asphalt yes we use to run a 1050 rf n 800 lf but on dirt I run 1050lf 1100 rf u can even put that 1100 of lf n 1050 of rf on dirt. It frees car up do go way crazy but try 100lb split n run 3in of stagger n back n about 3/4 to a inch of stagger in front n see if that frees u on entry..
Nice video! Love the RC car as an example to visually demonstrate what is happening as the car goes into the corner.
Thank you !
thanks for all the info instead of just running the car every weekend the way it is and dealing with a ill handling car sometimes is good your willing to share your experience. keep it up
Thanks Mike, I know more than I did prior to viewing this video. Thanks for posting & educating.
Hey Mike, really appreciate the videos. Keep it up!
Eric Waterbury Thanks for the comment... If we ever get the weather to cooperate we will do our next TT on reading the track. Stay tuned!
Stiffer spring in the right front? every one I have talked to says softer spring in the right front (compared to left front). Any ideas why ?
Randy Dorsett soft spring with a bump stop. Once you hit that bump stop it’s a stiff spring again.
All depends on driver..old school drivers like to drive off RF so they run a stiffer RF spring the less split u have n front springs the free or loose the car will be on entry.. running a stiffer spring on LF is called hillbilly style which makes for a loose or free car but free is fast! Me I’m running 50lbs if split up front n a 250LR n 225 rr
Too stiff on rf can make car push going in crazy as it seems that’s why I like very little split n front so when I enter turn it rotates til I get back n throttle..
As a new driver, I have really been watching these videos. What length of springs do you use in the back. I have 13" and 16". Is it possible to use the 16" that is 175 on the RR and use a 200 or 250 on the left rear? I ask cause I am burning my right rear tire like crazy and feel I have no traction. Please help! Thank you!
yes dew it works good
You will get different opinions on this some say shorter springs to reduce weight but there is always the risk of coil bind. I am a firm believer in the longer springs to reduce the risk of coil bind while also giving you more travel. Now I may be wrong on this but I think long springs run into the risk of bowing out of shape. This was a setup on a A-mod back in the 90's and a metric GM frame. We use 9 inch springs on the front 900 lb on the right and 800 lb on the left. The rear spring I believe was 15 inch coils on a mono leaf suspension the mono's left and right was 50 lb the right rear coil was 125 lb and the left rear was 175 lb. We had a 100 lb split in the front and a 50 lb in the rear. It worked really well cars have change so much now this combination may be junk but it was to give an idea.
Put car on scales.. gotta have enough rear % weight or ur spinning o top also good shocks help when running more rake
Nevermind on rear % I see now u say ur burning rr up.. what’s lf look like and what’s RF look like n comparison to rr
So stiffening the RF spring will help it turn in? That's backwards from asphalt. Is it different on dirt? Not arguing, just asking.
We have a lot more dynamic cross during braking from weight being higher up transferring to the right side. Also some modifieds have brake floater bars shoving up on the chassis in the Lr to load rf during braking.
Not always.. asphalt yes we use to run a 1050 rf n 800 lf but on dirt I run 1050lf 1100 rf u can even put that 1100 of lf n 1050 of rf on dirt. It frees car up do go way crazy but try 100lb split n run 3in of stagger n back n about 3/4 to a inch of stagger in front n see if that frees u on entry..
Left front can lift up from torque
Sprint cars are a lot simpler ,,,,The things got way to many parts !!