CLR in the sonic cleaner... do you dilute it first? If not, I'd put the parts into a zip-lock baggie, so you don't use as much CLR, or any other solution. Or, just save the solution in a well marked container to use again later.
I see other videos of larger Banish models and their indexing looks to be more of a click into place. I like that better because it keeps them in place better.
Yes. Align the baffles so that the etched baffle lines all match up. Then slide the tube down over the baffle stack and install your end cap tightening until it is just snug. Be sure to keep all threads lubricated. Not sure why this video does not show this.
Cleaning mine now in an ultrasonic cleaner. I have Lyman Turbosonic case cleaner. If that doesn't work, what works best for removing stubborn baked-on residue from the baffles? Sodium Hydroxide? I mostly shoot Federal Automatch
I found out, for titanium silencer parts, CLR works for lead fouling. It just takes time. It was my experience, the lead fouling I had had no negative effect on silencer function, and I think it might have actually made it a little quieter.
I align the index marks, stand the stack upright, make sure the index marks are aligned, then slide the tube over. Then rotate the tube and install the other cap.
@@DevonLadd Not reverse threaded. Mine was a little loose after running about 300 rounds through it. I wasn't even checking when firing. Just assumed it was well secured. I'll have to check as I fire next time.
@@ram218313 Had you fired it before trying to unscrew it? If you did and tightened while hot, that may be your issue, kind of like you're not supposed to put a spark-plug into a hot engine. I'd try firing a few rounds through to heat it all up and try to unscrew it, using heat protection for your hands, of course.
@@Threedog1963 no never been fired. i was wanting to take apart to lube the baffles to help minimize lead sticking and carbon lock. i was able to take part after putting in vise and using a strap wrench.
@Silencer Central Does the baffle line have be perfectly aligned or can it be silently off is that problem?
CLR in the sonic cleaner... do you dilute it first? If not, I'd put the parts into a zip-lock baggie, so you don't use as much CLR, or any other solution. Or, just save the solution in a well marked container to use again later.
I see other videos of larger Banish models and their indexing looks to be more of a click into place. I like that better because it keeps them in place better.
Do the lines on the baffles need to be aligned?
I'd assume so.
Yes. Align the baffles so that the etched baffle lines all match up. Then slide the tube down over the baffle stack and install your end cap tightening until it is just snug. Be sure to keep all threads lubricated. Not sure why this video does not show this.
@@dougr5379 No way the lines stay lined up when you're screwing the end cap back. They need to explain more on this.
@@no_handle_required I screwed the end cap back in, then took it apart again, and they were still aligned.
Just clarifying the end caps ARE titanium as well, correct? So they can also be cleaned with CLR?
Cleaning mine now in an ultrasonic cleaner. I have Lyman Turbosonic case cleaner. If that doesn't work, what works best for removing stubborn baked-on residue from the baffles? Sodium Hydroxide? I mostly shoot Federal Automatch
Stubborn residue after ultrasonic cleaning is best tackled with your choice of cleaning solvent, some soaking, and elbow grease.
I found out, for titanium silencer parts, CLR works for lead fouling. It just takes time. It was my experience, the lead fouling I had had no negative effect on silencer function, and I think it might have actually made it a little quieter.
@@richwhippersnapper
It most certainly does
@@SilencerCentral what if I don’t own a ultrasonic cleaner. Can I just use some Clenzoil cleaner
@@GunsWithDrum69 Absolutely. Your preferred cleaning solvent and some good old fashioned elbow grease will get the job done.
How do you maintain the baffle indexing when putting it back together?
There are index markings on the baffles.
I align the index marks, stand the stack upright, make sure the index marks are aligned, then slide the tube over. Then rotate the tube and install the other cap.
should anti seize be used on the threads once its cleaned?
It's not required, but you can use a small amount if you so desire.
Why I can’t unscrew the top?
i just got mine and i cant get either end off by hand
@ram218313 yup, mines tight as all get out. Worried it's threaded in the opposite direction or somthing lol
@@DevonLadd Not reverse threaded. Mine was a little loose after running about 300 rounds through it. I wasn't even checking when firing. Just assumed it was well secured. I'll have to check as I fire next time.
@@ram218313 Had you fired it before trying to unscrew it? If you did and tightened while hot, that may be your issue, kind of like you're not supposed to put a spark-plug into a hot engine. I'd try firing a few rounds through to heat it all up and try to unscrew it, using heat protection for your hands, of course.
@@Threedog1963 no never been fired. i was wanting to take apart to lube the baffles to help minimize lead sticking and carbon lock. i was able to take part after putting in vise and using a strap wrench.
Gainz