Great job on both the speakers and your video. We will silence those internet trolls with positivity. Now I just need to get my hands on a set of the xls encores. Dreams!
Great video. My thoughts on building speakers are to have fun building them and enjoying the music after all the work you put into it. Time for me to dream up my next pair. Thanks for sharing
Mate, good on you for having a go and building a great pair of speakers. What others think doesn't matter, you enjoy them and that does! Thanks for sharing.
Rick, you owe no one any apologies. Awesome work. I have just received the woofers for my diy build. Agree with your choices 100%. I also bought plans from Joseph Crowe. I hope mine come out as good as yours. Thank you for your videos.
What a nice build. Well done. Forget the negative people. Keep what you are doing. I built open baffles first time this year. They are great. Simple crossover design. Gosh they sound good.
Thanks Rick! Thanks for the detailed video..I wouldn't hide that crossover either. I have a pair of 10" Dayton ds still in the boxes that I need to use eventually. Thanks again and looking forward for your next video!
Good stuff. It's satisfying building your own.Knowing your objectives is useful,but a little experimentation is part of the fun. Thanks for sharing and happy listening.
Also a user / DIYer of Joseph Crowe's designs here. I had built the No. 1815 (15" bass + ES600 horn) and after trying the passive XO I went for an active variant with Hypex Fusion modules. Those correct the low bass region und thus I get 25Hz-20kHz from a big two-way. I built the 3d printed horns for that planar driver as well but haven't done much with it yet. Interesting that you prefer them without horn for better (wider?) soundstaging. Will give that a try some day.
Yeah, that ES600 is nice! Just to make it clear tho, I never heard that planar as a horn. My woodworking limits. But as a dipole I really love the soundstage. I saw a video update where Joseph removes the back cover of the large horn and he remarks that he liked the sound better as well. You just get that very pleasant 1st reflection (when at 3 to 4 feet) from the front wall. Maybe the horn would have sounded better, maybe one day I'll give it a crack again if I get a table saw. Try them with and without the 3D horn and let me know! I'm interested to know as well! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I appreciate it. If you're ever in the LA area, let me know and you can swing by to listen to these 👍
Very cool build man! This is a great example of the reiterative nature of speaker design. You never, ever end up with what you initially plan for. I like your humble approach and I’m also a parts guy and a fan of GR. Also, I’ve used both the BG Neos and the GRS and there really is no comparison. BG’s have a much smoother response. I hope this is in the realm of helpful information like you say up front.
Thanks Alex. I appreciate it. Yeah, I hear the BGs are sweet. I think their stronger flux might control the foil better. I'd love to get my hands on a pair but not at $300 each right now. maybe if I find a deal. For the xo, I started with the design that Joseph Crowe provided then dropped everything into XSIM and made small changes, then built with cheap caps and measured and got as close as I knew how to, and then changed to better parts to the final ones I used. I wanted to use a better cap on the initial Bandpass but my budget didn't allow for it. I was already $4k in. But i'd love to upgrade a set of 22uF Axon to Jantzen Superiors and keep the 0.1uF Miflex bypass caps. Thanks for watching. I appreciate it 👍
@@RickRuizAudio I should clarify I’ve only used the smaller Neo 3’s which are only $100. That’s a similar approach to how I do crossovers. Lots of parts on hand and trial and error with measurements. I get a starting point from xsim after taking my raw driver measurements. Then I’ll use Xsim to get an idea what part I want to start with to make a particular change to the response.
@@RickRuizAudio - =) .. Im a bit of a joker ... mind my sarcasm. It's all in support.. yes. =) Great speakers.. nice presentation of your process. Glad to see you are happy with them. Keep it up!
Just stumbled across your channel. I am also building a speaker based on a Troy Crowe design. In this instance, it is Project 1695, which is a 2.5 way open baffle (OB) design. Like you, I did not have enough sense to just build the speaker according to the plans and had to consult with TC regarding the changes. The original design is a TMW where the tweeter is a compression horn mounted to a custom 8.9” horn, a 10” midrange and a 15” woofer. A 15” woofer would be more than sufficient in most configurations…except OB. I decided to use dual 15” woofers per side. Because of this, the midrange had to be located above the tweeter because there was now no room under the tweeter. I also decided to bi-amp. This allows me to separately power the woofers. Now I can use a higher power Class D amp on the woofers while using a low powered tube or Class A amp for the tweeter and midrange. The changes have resulted in a speaker that looks very different from Project 1695 while not being different in important aspects. For example, the crossover is the same except that the portion of the passive crossover for the woofer has been deleted. Also, the amount of attenuation needed to match the horn with the midrange remains the same. I had JC provide the horn plus rear cover for the compression driver. Unlike you, my woodworking skills are not rudimentary, they are non-existent so I am having someone else build the speaker. The resulting speaker is a MTWW that is around 5 feet tall and around 2 feet wide around the woofers. All drivers are the same as the original JC plans so no further changes to the crossover are needed. The speaker is made from 1.75” Baltic birch butcher block and reinforced with 2 sheets of MDF around the woofers. I have high hopes that these will be my “end game” speakers. Look forward to getting them and then start the process of pairing them with electronics that would work best for them as well as room treatments. I have a room in my house that can serve as a dedicated listening room so I have more leeway in treating the room than I normally would. Always good to see another person who went down the DIY rabbit hole!
@@RickRuizAudio Will do! BTW, the compression horn is SB Acoustics ROSSO-65CDN-T compression driver, the 10” driver is the Scan Speak Classic 10” paper cone driver and the 15” drivers are the SB Bianco Open Baffle woofers. Crossover parts are minimal (4 parts) and are made by Goertz and Mundorf. Basically, you need a couple of resistors to attenuate the horn to match the midrange driver and a cap to keep the horn from destroying itself by playing too low. Midrange is a bit of overstatement as the 10” driver only plays from 1200 hz to 200hz and is only there to improve upper bass performance (300-600 hz range). Would love to share pics of the speaker and crossover once completed.
I love these kinds of projects, Frankensteining your way from an initial conception to something that actually works for you. If you find yourself needing to fill a bigger room or just needing those higher levels you mention it might distort at now, you can always just add another of the GRS planars up top to increase power handling capabilities (not to mention vertical sweet spot) and move to a different woofer on the bottom. Of course, in that case, you'll more than likely need to revamp the crossover to accomodate, so OPPORTUNITY. Seriously, though, if you're keeping to the same room, I really doubt you'd ever NEED to change anything. That's more of a WANT thing, for folk like us, right?
Lol, seriously Todd. I've aready considered a 2nd Planar and placing them MTM above the bass. But yeah, in this space they aren't needed. I usually listen at 75dB, but in my youth, when house parties were a thing, I would have used a folded horn for the bass!! Thanks for the support and thanks for watching! 👍
@@RickRuizAudio Mmmm, overkill. Personally I'm and open baffle fanatic, so I'm alway thinking in those terms to get decent bass. My personal rig were I DIY all my stuff is a nearfield desktop arranged in a corner. I have 2 15" woofers driven in stereo by a pair of subwoofer amps. Your current stuff seems pretty mellow for me for a whole living room ;-p
Yes parts do make a difference. Drivers cabinet and crossover parts plus design. It's your money and your taste. Everyone would do it slightly differently due to taste their budget and experience. Also if the designer lives with someone else ...what they are willing to look at and live with. Multiple amps and an active crossover are worth a look. Like what you have built by the way. Enjoy the music.
I don't think this this particular ribbon super tweeter can be used Open Baffle. I think I would need another set to fire backwards at the front wall out of phase. But please let me know if I'm wrong. Maybe the 3" planar magnetic (the copy of the Neo3) could be used Open Baffle.
I’m probably preaching to the choir here, but there are levels of DIY. The first level is a kit like one made by GR-Research or CSS Audio that offers a flat pack option. The second level is building off plans, whether by a kit company like GR-Research or by someone like Joseph Crowe. Woodworking skills are required if you are building the cabinets yourself, but at least you can (in most cases) be confident that you are building a speaker that someone has previously built, tested and found to be to their liking. If you are lucky, there might even be reviews posted by people who have previously built the speaker. If you go with an established name, you will probably end up with a good speaker, though it may not be to your personal preferences. The third level (in ascending levels of complexity and challenge) is modifications to those plans. The greater the modification, the more you are entering the territory of unanticipated complications. I made relatively minor changes. Basically, I wanted better bass response than Project 1695 offered for two reasons. First, open baffle speakers need big drivers to have good bass response because there is no cabinet reinforcement of bass in an OB speaker. I wanted as close to a full range speaker as possible so I decided to have two 15” woofers per side instead of one per side. Additionally, I decided to bi-amp the speaker so I could get the most out of the woofers. Simple change. Right? Not as simple as it seems. The original design was to simply invert Project 1695 and do a WMTMW speaker. There were several issues with this. The first issue was size. This would be a speaker nearly 6’ tall and I wasn’t crazy about a speaker that big. The next issue was cost as this added around $1,000 to the cost of the drivers. The 3rd issue is that really want your woofers close to the floor and not have issues that could arise from reflections off the floor and the ceiling. The final issue is attenuation. The plans had the resister value for attenuating a single 10” midrange with the horn, not dual 10” drivers. JC estimated the resistor value for the dual 10” drivers, but he never built, tested or listened to that configuration. For all of these reasons, I went with MTWW as my configuration. Now I had to worry about other issues. Even moving the 10” midrange above the horn, fitting two 15” drivers under the horn raised the center horn height higher than would be ideal (around. 35”). After consulting with JC, we decided that the center could be as high as 40” without running into problems because of the superior dispersion provided by the horn. The next big issue was support/vibration. Project 1695 was carved out of 3.25” solid wood. The thickest butcher block I could easily find was 1.75”. Now, I have two 15” woofers that have to be placed close together to keep my horn from being too high up AND I have vibration of two 15” woofers. My solution (for now) is adding two layers of MDF to reinforce the woofer portion of the baffle and help control vibration. The thickness is now 3.25” around the woofers. Hopefully, that will be sufficient. My point is that even minor modifications to established plans can quickly get you into the area of unanticipated issues/complications. I have huge respect for anyone who makes significant changes to a speaker plan as you have done, Rick, and even greater respect for those of you who opt for level 4, a clean slate design.
I'm also really interested in how the mid sounds. I have always been curious about planners . Maybe you can make a little cover out of plexiglass to keep the dust off . BTW have you ever used xsim for crossover simulation?
I design, from source to ear ,diy, and poverty budget. Lol @ most . Open baffle 2in duo on top, love the depth and sound field. ribbon ,beston are great sparkle. My mid bass is 70hz up to 600hz. Carbon fiber Kevlar 8 in the midrange to 5k. Ribbons 5k up. 70hz down dual dayton 18's@ 500watt. Got monoblock tpa3255 s @ 48vdc. To the 8 ohm towers about 200+ watts each. Best in over 500 systems I have constructed. I'm retired pro.. I like your stuff, I sold all mine. This one I keep for me.20hz to 20k @
Very cool. Thanks for sharing, Larry. I'm also thinking of plugging the port on the bass cabinets to shift rolloff from 31hz to approx 65hz and the fill bottom with GR Research's Servo Sub. Just gotta save my pennies. 👍
I build the XLS Encores. The XLS's don't really compare to something of the size of the Joseph Crowe's. The XLSs sound natural and beautiful but only go down to 65ish Hz. And the highs while also very nice, not at the detail level of the ribbon tweeter. But the XLS are very holographic. Imaging and soundstage really shine and if you have a small space, they're wonderful. Especially for the price.
Awesome. Thanks for sharing. I was hoping to hear a sound clip. For those wondering, they most likely sound like these, although I am using a NEO 10 crossed over at 400 hz. Still would be the same open sound. ruclips.net/video/BqzB6JkDBA8/видео.html
Thanks Ron. I appreciate it! Yeah, I think it would be close to the 10. Except for the cut off at 10kHz. The sound was great running as 2 way crossed at 500, but then I added the super tweeter and it adds a whole other level of dimension. Very cool video! Thanks for sharing 👍
Appreciate your thought process and how you pivoted as you progressed with your build.
Thanks Gary. I appreciate you watching 👍
Great job on both the speakers and your video. We will silence those internet trolls with positivity. Now I just need to get my hands on a set of the xls encores. Dreams!
Thanks so much Phil! I appreciate your support and kind words. Thanks for watching!
Haters only hate because they can't relate! It's an awesome build 👏
Thank you Jed. I appreciate your support 🙏
Dude forget about the internet trolls, amazing speakers and great execution. Props to you
Thank you Al!! I appreciate it, and thanks for watching 👍
Great job, I bet they'll hold their own against some pricy competition!
Thanks Emmett! And Yes, they definitely do! Thanks for watching 👍
Great video. My thoughts on building speakers are to have fun building them and enjoying the music after all the work you put into it. Time for me to dream up my next pair. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Chris! I feel the exact same way! I appreciate the support! 🙏
Mate, good on you for having a go and building a great pair of speakers. What others think doesn't matter, you enjoy them and that does! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you. I appreciate the support 🙏
Rick, you owe no one any apologies. Awesome work. I have just received the woofers for my diy build. Agree with your choices 100%. I also bought plans from Joseph Crowe. I hope mine come out as good as yours. Thank you for your videos.
Thanks Ted! I appreciate your support! I hope yours come out awesome 👍 and thanks for watching.
It's kind of funny that I'm building the same speaker, but 100% open baffle.
What a nice build. Well done. Forget the negative people. Keep what you are doing. I built open baffles first time this year. They are great. Simple crossover design. Gosh they sound good.
Thanks Chris! I appreciate the support 👍
for 2 classes fantastic job
Thank you so much! And I appreciate your support! 🙏
Thanks Rick! Thanks for the detailed video..I wouldn't hide that crossover either. I have a pair of 10" Dayton ds still in the boxes that I need to use eventually. Thanks again and looking forward for your next video!
Thanks Mike. I appreciate it! 👍
Good stuff. It's satisfying building your own.Knowing your objectives is useful,but a little experimentation is part of the fun. Thanks for sharing and happy listening.
Thanks Oliver. I appreciate your support, and thanks for watching 👍
Very cool! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching! I appreciate it!
Very nice! Beautiful speakers, love the crossovers components choices
Thanks Kevin. I appreciate it! And thanks for watching 👍
Also a user / DIYer of Joseph Crowe's designs here. I had built the No. 1815 (15" bass + ES600 horn) and after trying the passive XO I went for an active variant with Hypex Fusion modules. Those correct the low bass region und thus I get 25Hz-20kHz from a big two-way.
I built the 3d printed horns for that planar driver as well but haven't done much with it yet. Interesting that you prefer them without horn for better (wider?) soundstaging. Will give that a try some day.
Yeah, that ES600 is nice! Just to make it clear tho, I never heard that planar as a horn. My woodworking limits. But as a dipole I really love the soundstage. I saw a video update where Joseph removes the back cover of the large horn and he remarks that he liked the sound better as well. You just get that very pleasant 1st reflection (when at 3 to 4 feet) from the front wall. Maybe the horn would have sounded better, maybe one day I'll give it a crack again if I get a table saw. Try them with and without the 3D horn and let me know! I'm interested to know as well! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I appreciate it. If you're ever in the LA area, let me know and you can swing by to listen to these 👍
Very cool build man! This is a great example of the reiterative nature of speaker design. You never, ever end up with what you initially plan for. I like your humble approach and I’m also a parts guy and a fan of GR. Also, I’ve used both the BG Neos and the GRS and there really is no comparison. BG’s have a much smoother response. I hope this is in the realm of helpful information like you say up front.
Thanks Alex. I appreciate it. Yeah, I hear the BGs are sweet. I think their stronger flux might control the foil better. I'd love to get my hands on a pair but not at $300 each right now. maybe if I find a deal. For the xo, I started with the design that Joseph Crowe provided then dropped everything into XSIM and made small changes, then built with cheap caps and measured and got as close as I knew how to, and then changed to better parts to the final ones I used. I wanted to use a better cap on the initial Bandpass but my budget didn't allow for it. I was already $4k in. But i'd love to upgrade a set of 22uF Axon to Jantzen Superiors and keep the 0.1uF Miflex bypass caps. Thanks for watching. I appreciate it 👍
@@RickRuizAudio I should clarify I’ve only used the smaller Neo 3’s which are only $100. That’s a similar approach to how I do crossovers. Lots of parts on hand and trial and error with measurements. I get a starting point from xsim after taking my raw driver measurements. Then I’ll use Xsim to get an idea what part I want to start with to make a particular change to the response.
@@alexw890 Nice. Ahh, yeah, the Neo3 is a better price. I know GR does use that one on their NX series.
Great video, looks like it was a great project and terrific learning experience. Thanks!
Lots of fun too! Thank you 🙏 and thanks for watching 👍
Those who can't, hate.
Excellent job, thanks for sharing.
Thanks Doug. I appreciate it 👍
Top honoust project, thanks for sharing
🙏 Thank you for the support!
Nice speakers, I'd love to have them !
Thanks! And thanks for watching 👍
Im subscribing because of the lisp =)
Kudos on making your own .. and knowing what it takes. =)
Thanks for sharing.
Lol. Thanks for the support. I appreciate it! And thanks for the follow 🙏
@@RickRuizAudio - =) .. Im a bit of a joker ... mind my sarcasm. It's all in support.. yes. =)
Great speakers.. nice presentation of your process. Glad to see you are happy with them. Keep it up!
Cool speakers 🙌
Thanks Stefan! I appreciate it 👍
👍 Awesome. Good 4 U!!
Thanks Frank! I appreciate the support 👍
Just stumbled across your channel. I am also building a speaker based on a Troy Crowe design. In this instance, it is Project 1695, which is a 2.5 way open baffle (OB) design. Like you, I did not have enough sense to just build the speaker according to the plans and had to consult with TC regarding the changes. The original design is a TMW where the tweeter is a compression horn mounted to a custom 8.9” horn, a 10” midrange and a 15” woofer.
A 15” woofer would be more than sufficient in most configurations…except OB. I decided to use dual 15” woofers per side. Because of this, the midrange had to be located above the tweeter because there was now no room under the tweeter. I also decided to bi-amp. This allows me to separately power the woofers. Now I can use a higher power Class D amp on the woofers while using a low powered tube or Class A amp for the tweeter and midrange.
The changes have resulted in a speaker that looks very different from Project 1695 while not being different in important aspects. For example, the crossover is the same except that the portion of the passive crossover for the woofer has been deleted. Also, the amount of attenuation needed to match the horn with the midrange remains the same. I had JC provide the horn plus rear cover for the compression driver. Unlike you, my woodworking skills are not rudimentary, they are non-existent so I am having someone else build the speaker.
The resulting speaker is a MTWW that is around 5 feet tall and around 2 feet wide around the woofers. All drivers are the same as the original JC plans so no further changes to the crossover are needed. The speaker is made from 1.75” Baltic birch butcher block and reinforced with 2 sheets of MDF around the woofers.
I have high hopes that these will be my “end game” speakers. Look forward to getting them and then start the process of pairing them with electronics that would work best for them as well as room treatments. I have a room in my house that can serve as a dedicated listening room so I have more leeway in treating the room than I normally would.
Always good to see another person who went down the DIY rabbit hole!
Very cool. That speaker sounds awesome. Thanks for sharing and please update us when you get them in!
@@RickRuizAudio Will do! BTW, the compression horn is SB Acoustics ROSSO-65CDN-T compression driver, the 10” driver is the Scan Speak Classic 10” paper cone driver and the 15” drivers are the SB Bianco Open Baffle woofers. Crossover parts are minimal (4 parts) and are made by Goertz and Mundorf. Basically, you need a couple of resistors to attenuate the horn to match the midrange driver and a cap to keep the horn from destroying itself by playing too low. Midrange is a bit of overstatement as the 10” driver only plays from 1200 hz to 200hz and is only there to improve upper bass performance (300-600 hz range). Would love to share pics of the speaker and crossover once completed.
@@ccdccd8615 nice. Yeah, please do email some pictures over when you get them. Where are you located, if you don't mind me asking?
@@RickRuizAudio Greater Washington, DC area. Unfortunately, we are on opposite coasts.
I love these kinds of projects, Frankensteining your way from an initial conception to something that actually works for you. If you find yourself needing to fill a bigger room or just needing those higher levels you mention it might distort at now, you can always just add another of the GRS planars up top to increase power handling capabilities (not to mention vertical sweet spot) and move to a different woofer on the bottom. Of course, in that case, you'll more than likely need to revamp the crossover to accomodate, so OPPORTUNITY. Seriously, though, if you're keeping to the same room, I really doubt you'd ever NEED to change anything. That's more of a WANT thing, for folk like us, right?
Lol, seriously Todd. I've aready considered a 2nd Planar and placing them MTM above the bass. But yeah, in this space they aren't needed. I usually listen at 75dB, but in my youth, when house parties were a thing, I would have used a folded horn for the bass!! Thanks for the support and thanks for watching! 👍
@@RickRuizAudio Mmmm, overkill. Personally I'm and open baffle fanatic, so I'm alway thinking in those terms to get decent bass. My personal rig were I DIY all my stuff is a nearfield desktop arranged in a corner. I have 2 15" woofers driven in stereo by a pair of subwoofer amps. Your current stuff seems pretty mellow for me for a whole living room ;-p
@@toddlucas1062 lol. I'm a mellow guy 😎
👍 very nice diy
Thank you for watching! 🙏
I build speakers a bit like your's but I use a 5" open FR driver on the top of the box. I'll never go back to "normal" speakers. 😅
Yeah, I just love that kind of sound. Thanks for watching 👍
Yes parts do make a difference. Drivers cabinet and crossover parts plus design. It's your money and your taste. Everyone would do it slightly differently due to taste their budget and experience. Also if the designer lives with someone else ...what they are willing to look at and live with. Multiple amps and an active crossover are worth a look. Like what you have built by the way. Enjoy the music.
Thank you for the support and for watching the video! 🙏
Have you tried the super tweeter open baffle just like your Tweeter? You might like the sound when giving it room to breathe.
I don't think this this particular ribbon super tweeter can be used Open Baffle. I think I would need another set to fire backwards at the front wall out of phase. But please let me know if I'm wrong. Maybe the 3" planar magnetic (the copy of the Neo3) could be used Open Baffle.
I’m probably preaching to the choir here, but there are levels of DIY. The first level is a kit like one made by GR-Research or CSS Audio that offers a flat pack option. The second level is building off plans, whether by a kit company like GR-Research or by someone like Joseph Crowe. Woodworking skills are required if you are building the cabinets yourself, but at least you can (in most cases) be confident that you are building a speaker that someone has previously built, tested and found to be to their liking. If you are lucky, there might even be reviews posted by people who have previously built the speaker. If you go with an established name, you will probably end up with a good speaker, though it may not be to your personal preferences. The third level (in ascending levels of complexity and challenge) is modifications to those plans. The greater the modification, the more you are entering the territory of unanticipated complications. I made relatively minor changes. Basically, I wanted better bass response than Project 1695 offered for two reasons. First, open baffle speakers need big drivers to have good bass response because there is no cabinet reinforcement of bass in an OB speaker. I wanted as close to a full range speaker as possible so I decided to have two 15” woofers per side instead of one per side. Additionally, I decided to bi-amp the speaker so I could get the most out of the woofers.
Simple change. Right? Not as simple as it seems. The original design was to simply invert Project 1695 and do a WMTMW speaker. There were several issues with this. The first issue was size. This would be a speaker nearly 6’ tall and I wasn’t crazy about a speaker that big. The next issue was cost as this added around $1,000 to the cost of the drivers. The 3rd issue is that really want your woofers close to the floor and not have issues that could arise from reflections off the floor and the ceiling. The final issue is attenuation. The plans had the resister value for attenuating a single 10” midrange with the horn, not dual 10” drivers. JC estimated the resistor value for the dual 10” drivers, but he never built, tested or listened to that configuration.
For all of these reasons, I went with MTWW as my configuration. Now I had to worry about other issues. Even moving the 10” midrange above the horn, fitting two 15” drivers under the horn raised the center horn height higher than would be ideal (around. 35”). After consulting with JC, we decided that the center could be as high as 40” without running into problems because of the superior dispersion provided by the horn. The next big issue was support/vibration. Project 1695 was carved out of 3.25” solid wood. The thickest butcher block I could easily find was 1.75”. Now, I have two 15” woofers that have to be placed close together to keep my horn from being too high up AND I have vibration of two 15” woofers. My solution (for now) is adding two layers of MDF to reinforce the woofer portion of the baffle and help control vibration. The thickness is now 3.25” around the woofers. Hopefully, that will be sufficient.
My point is that even minor modifications to established plans can quickly get you into the area of unanticipated issues/complications. I have huge respect for anyone who makes significant changes to a speaker plan as you have done, Rick, and even greater respect for those of you who opt for level 4, a clean slate design.
Well said. And thank you. 🙏
I'm also really interested in how the mid sounds. I have always been curious about planners . Maybe you can make a little cover out of plexiglass to keep the dust off . BTW have you ever used xsim for crossover simulation?
Yeah Mike, I use XSIM to get my starting point. Then tweak the crossover with measurements and then buy ear.
I design, from source to ear ,diy, and poverty budget. Lol @ most . Open baffle 2in duo on top, love the depth and sound field. ribbon ,beston are great sparkle. My mid bass is 70hz up to 600hz. Carbon fiber Kevlar 8 in the midrange to 5k. Ribbons 5k up. 70hz down dual dayton 18's@ 500watt. Got monoblock tpa3255 s @ 48vdc. To the 8 ohm towers about 200+ watts each. Best in over 500 systems I have constructed. I'm retired pro.. I like your stuff, I sold all mine. This one I keep for me.20hz to 20k @
Very cool. Thanks for sharing, Larry. I'm also thinking of plugging the port on the bass cabinets to shift rolloff from 31hz to approx 65hz and the fill bottom with GR Research's Servo Sub. Just gotta save my pennies. 👍
What GR-Research speakers did you build and how do these compare.
I build the XLS Encores. The XLS's don't really compare to something of the size of the Joseph Crowe's. The XLSs sound natural and beautiful but only go down to 65ish Hz. And the highs while also very nice, not at the detail level of the ribbon tweeter. But the XLS are very holographic. Imaging and soundstage really shine and if you have a small space, they're wonderful. Especially for the price.
Build VMPS V60 reveal everything!
I'll look that one up. Thanks for the suggestion 👍
nice! but...really, your NOT going to add grillage to protect the near-floor cones? huh?... have you experimented with "exciters"? yet :-)))
No, no grills for me. My kids are grown and I don't have pets. They'll be fine. I've heard exciters but I've never played with them.
Used market low cost approach 😮
Sure. If you can find some used speakers and reuse the drivers. 👍
Awesome. Thanks for sharing. I was hoping to hear a sound clip. For those wondering, they most likely sound like these, although I am using a NEO 10 crossed over at 400 hz. Still would be the same open sound. ruclips.net/video/BqzB6JkDBA8/видео.html
Thanks Ron. I appreciate it! Yeah, I think it would be close to the 10. Except for the cut off at 10kHz. The sound was great running as 2 way crossed at 500, but then I added the super tweeter and it adds a whole other level of dimension. Very cool video! Thanks for sharing 👍