The part with you showing and explaining, that flaws in the FDM process are most often just hidden (either on purpose or by accident) is the most important one imho, because I feel most experts/brands/YT channels don't like or want to say it that frankly.
You changed my 3D printing life a couple of videos ago! 1mm on first layer solved all the problems I had with bed adhesion. And 1mm on all layers work great for many of my models, and cut the print speed in half or more. Thanks Tom!!
Well done. I have a kid next door asking about settings on his new printer, I've been pointing him to your videos (great timing), and Teaching Tech's videos.
Man you are really revolutionizing 3D printing for those new into 3d printing. I remember that I was struggling wit 3d printing 2 years ago, and your videos alongside with Maker's Muse made it so much of a more enjoyable process for me.
Your videos have been such a great help on my 3D printing journey. Having jumped straight into the deep end with the notorious A8 (and the subsequent pretty-much-almost-from-scratch-rebuild called the AM8) your insights and tips have saved me in my hours of despair when nothing seemed to work and the machine was close to a spontaneous defenestration. I still keep coming back to them years later when I am stuck somewhere. Thank you for making these videos and putting on all this effort.
There can never be enough of these print guides especially to just keep up with how quickly 3D printers change. I still remember the days threaded rods were acceptable for printer frames haa
From the title I was envisioning pictures of when you get back to your over night multi-hour print and discovering it failed spectacularly, either it printed a birds nest since it stopped adhering to the print (like when a tall object falls over during print) or a huge blob of material stuck to the hot end.
I really appreciated this series you made; it was what convinced me at the end of 2020 to buy my first printer (ender3 pro). I've had it running nearly 24/7 since; have done extensive upgrades. Early on I experienced intermittent underextrusion that took a while to diagnose; eventually I discovered the cracked idler arm on the extruder (that's a really outdated extruder design). I also had intermittent layer shifting issues which I ascribe to improperly tensioned belts or possibly excessive stepper driver current. Both were great learning experiences, if frustrating in the moment. I have been very interested in the voron project and appreciated yours&cnckitchen's reviews. I plan to build a voron 2.4 300^3 or 350^3, super hyped for parts to arrive on the slow boat. I will continue to follow your vids, and thank you for your commitment to and emphasis on open source in the printing community.
Great stuff. I got my Prusa MK3S kit in April and after putting it together, I have been printing like crazy. Your videos (and the Prusa forum) have helped me understand a lot of the settings and troubleshoot. Thanks again and keep up the great work!!
Ey Tom is back again with a basics video. I love it! I have two questions, these questions are not really widely discussed so that is why i am asking. Questions: - How does a belt rubbing on one of it's sides effect the print quality? - How do I minimize overshooting corners without linear advance.
Since Tom hasn't replied yet: 1- belt rubbing will wear out your belt (obviously) but, it probably won't have a big affect on print quality. If the drag is severe enough and your printer has high acceleration, it may cause some skipped steps 2-Tension your belts properly. If the belts are crappy, replace them! Make sure there's no mechanical play in the machine.
6:00 Something to add is a damaged heat break. I couldn't figure out for the life of me why my printer refused to print. Tried quite a few cold pulls including one where I nearly punched myself in the face when it released. (LOL) I took my E3D hotend apart to see where the hangup was and noticed the heat break was bent slighty. Replaced it and it worked much better. Also get a bondtech extruder, the one that came with my mendelmax 2.0 was crap.
damn... I watched all the previous episodes just to find out that 3D printing is not user-friendly at all. hahah Thanks for sharing all the great tips and knowledge Thomas.
Great information Tom, I do think that sometimes we become a little unforgiving with our cheap printers and really expect far to much from them. I think one of my problems is I am constantly trying to get them to print that little bit better when in reality the quality is pretty dam good especially for the price of the printer!
How about improving Top Layer Quality? For me this has been the most annoying issue to resolve. In particular, I'm trying to make a few molds for silicone parts that I produce. The side walls come out decent but the top layers never look good. I've tried messing with ironing and skin layers, with little to no improvement. Any top final layer looks like the nozzle dragged over it here or there as well as leaving little lines, almost like stringing but are actually a part of that layer. It looks terrible for a finished part. So far I've only used inexpensive PLA for these molds but have a few rolls of HTPLA from proto-pasta that I'm going to try next. Currently working with a sovol sv01 and Cura. Thanks for the great videos.
When adjusting settings to address an issue with a printer, and you're not super familiar with all 3 - try only changing 1 setting at a time. It may take a little longer, but you'll know what change induces what and how, and learn a lot.
One issue I was having was filament WAY underextruding. did teaching tech's estep calibration method a ton of times, and numbers were always wildly different. I saw my filament tension wheel was barely turning, so said hey why not? Took off the wheel, gave it a drop of WD40, cleaned off the excess, and it's been printing like a champ ever since. Amount extruded is always also right on and consistent too
Be careful which "WD40" you use - the original formula was a Water Dispersant (hence the "WD") and can be slightly corrosive. Far better to use light machine oil for sliding parts (e.g.: Singer sewing machine oil) or PTFE/lithium grease for bearings.
@@anthonyrich1592 i had some lithium grease back in the day, but all I had laying around was a can of WD40 I've had for a while and I've been broke for a while
I recently build a Prusa Mk3s clone, Bear frame and extruder modifications. Works great. Your videos are a real help. Ever think about putting in a book or dvd? Now think I may want to mod my older mk2.5s with the e3d volcano hotend but have questions as to calibration kand z height printing. Maybe a short video on the Prusa e3d mod could be in the future??
Thank you, very informative, you did cover what I had a problem with but I think it's not cheap belts but worn bearings because my belts are good, again thank you for making this updated version of videos for owning a printer.👍😎👍
You mentioned how if you went into detail it would be a messy 2 hour video. I'm looking for that 2 hour video. A 2 hour full troubleshooting video with timestamps would be awesome
There's a critical difference between prints meant to look pretty and prints that meant to be practical. Personally, I prefer to slightly increase flow and overlap to get the best adhesion. Works great for brackets and jigs but doesn't look nice for little figures.
Fantastic video series, Thomas! I've been printing for a while but there's always more to learn and your videos are an excellent reference. Is that an Okinawan shirt, by the way? :)
Hey Tom. I have been 3d printing for 7 years, and have a problem that has been happening for the last couple months that I just can't figure out. I'm using Simplify 3d, printer is a Creality S5, with a Microswiss hotend, Capricorn Bowden, dual gear extruder, silicone heater, etc. She's pretty well upgraded. My outermost layer isn't adhering to the next inner layer. My extrusion multiplyer is spot on. Anything I print with a large vertical wall, the outer perimeter is loose. The rest are just fine. It's just the outer layer. I cannot figure out what the heck is causing this issue. Any suggestions what I should look for? Thanks. Been a subscriber for over 6 years. Thanks for all your help.
wow what an extremely helpful video! Wish i would have watched this when i got my printer. Maybe i would have taken a better approach to fixing quality issues.
That was very helpful, thanks. I would sit through a longer video that provided a detailed explanation for all the things that are adjustable in a slicer. I'm using Flashprint and have about 7 tabs of settings to negotiate! :)
You're awesome man. It must be incredibly hard to parse what data and in what depth you go. I wonder if 3d printing will ever be like a 50 dollar bubble jet. If you draw an analog to paper printers, 3d printers are still in the Fortran punch card era but improving rapidly.
In situation of Buying 3D printer from someone for the first time , What should i have to check first to confirm that it's Not faulty ? Can you suggest what should be the test print to Check it's Performence and Quality ? Like Hello world for the 3D Printing ?for creality ender
hello Tom. I know this is off topic for today. I just started using the Prusa slicer and I can not figure out how to get it to scale uniformly. Could really use the help and today's video was awesome keep up the good work.
Using Prusa slicer 2.1.0, look to the left side and select the Scale (S) tool, between the Move and Rotate tools. The handles at the *corners* of the model box let you scale x,y, and z axes together. The other handles only let you change one axis at a time.
Hello Thomas, I know this is two years after you posted this video, but I have had layer shift happen from the gcode file being corrupted by a faulty sd card.
I always seem to have some filament buildup, at first it seems fine, but then it cures and the nozzle tears the whole thing apart. What am I doing wrong?
Im looking to buy an affordable 3d printer(around 300-400$) and its mostly as a hobby so i can print stuff like statues and busts and gettin to paint the and all i also live in apartment so no workshop what do you think should i get fdm or resin based printer??!
Well said about hiding artifacts. It seems like half of r/FixMyPrint are posts asking for help to tune out minor defects that are inherent artifacts to the modern diy printing process. It seems unrealistic expectations and perfectly curated social media posts are not limited to the fitness industry.
If you're seeing filament wear on a Bowden based printer it's usually because the Bowden tube is too long or otherwise inducing too much resistance on the filament between the extruder gears and the hot end. This was a real problem for me on a Core-XY printer I had because the Bowden tube between the extruder gears and the hot end was around 850mm long. I initially replaced the original extruders (which were single gears driving against bearings) with BMG clones (which drove the filament with a gear on two sides) but I eventually gave in and eliminated all but 40mm of Bowden tubing by moving the extruders up onto the hot end assembly itself.
Is there anything other than software issues that can cause layer shifts on a delta printer? I don't see how a slipped belt or motor can cause a perfectly flat offset on a delta, but it happens to me fairly often.
I’m having layer issues with the first layer. I print a raft and it seems that it sticks to the object a lot and the object isn’t filled in on the first layer with lots of holes and looks bad
Hi, Im having issues printing a model which uses Boole - i connect and flatten the object in C4d , Cura sees the holes (windows in a building) , but the printer ignores the holes
one thing I really get annoyed with is layer separation after the print finishes. I have printed two identical parts at the same time with ASA. 255°C on the hotend, 110°C on the bed. One turned out flawless, the other got layer separation in two places. I have an enclosure and the ambient temperature is stable. Octoprint shows stable print temperatures. Everything should work out actually but it doesn't. I just can't wrap my head around it.
i have a divinci all in one pro. my FIRST layer always comes out with threaded lines...not a solid smooth bottom print. the rest of the print comes out great...but that first layer just wont lay smooth...it looks like string sitting next to one another how do i fix this. thank you.
Help. The top surfaces are GONE. I "changed nothing" is mostly accurate. I certainly didn't touch flow. It's even apparent on 2nd layer of rafts (1st prints fine).
I have an Ender 3D printer. I had been printing great prints for awhile with little to no issues. A few days ago my printer clogged and even after cleaning the nozzle and tube and even changing the nozzle it is not printing right anymore. The nozzle keeps clogging and the print layers are stringy and break very easily. Anything I can do to fix this?
Literally I replaced the brass nozzle on my Mk3 yesterday with an E3D Nozzle X, hardened steel with unique nano coating, initial prints look better and any material that gets stuck to the outside wipes off easily with a piece of cloth when it's hot.
I usually avoid the problem by having a slow, thick first layer. e.g.: initial layer height 0.3mm; initial layer line width 250%; initial layer speed 10mm/sec. (Credit to Thomas who mentioned this "in passing" during his "Was live: Creality Ender 3 Build & First Prints!" video.) It can add a lot of time to a print job but would you rather have the print work right the first time and just wait a little longer, or keep repeating the same print because it doesn't stick properly? Also regularly cleaning the bed with a light detergent or isopropyl alcohol (if you can find any) will remove any grease you might have left behind when removing prints.
I had a problem with the acceleration and velocity in my printer, they were too high. for x and y axis, ended up in 200 from 500 and the z axis went from 20 to 2, that was velocity, acceleration i don´t remember exactly. they work perfectly in those for me at least.
Can i just kidnap you to fix my 3 printers? The bed leveling is a pain in my butt and i pull my hair out every time i try to fix it. Maybe my expectations to the printers are too high?
Making things can be quite satisfying. My advice first is to have an idea what you want to make after the novelty wears off. I want enclosures for arduino projects; others want cosplay costumes; others want to replace broken bicycle parts that are hard or expensive to get,and more. Second advice is, sometimes a cheaper printer is reliable, sometimes it needs work or even parts replaced. Usually a more expensive printer will have fewer issues out of the box. Quality matters. It can be very frustrating as a beginner having problems and not knowing if they are you, the machine, or the slicer. (Thanks to Tom for videos like this!). I have heard several people lament that their first printer was too cheap, and wishing they had saved up for a better one first. Third advice is, don't rush it. Watch the RUclipss, read the reviews, see what others have done, find a Facebook group for the printer you like the look of and absorb knowledge. 3d printing can be frustrating. It can be difficult. And it can also be so very rewarding. :)
The part with you showing and explaining, that flaws in the FDM process are most often just hidden (either on purpose or by accident) is the most important one imho, because I feel most experts/brands/YT channels don't like or want to say it that frankly.
You changed my 3D printing life a couple of videos ago! 1mm on first layer solved all the problems I had with bed adhesion. And 1mm on all layers work great for many of my models, and cut the print speed in half or more. Thanks Tom!!
Well done. I have a kid next door asking about settings on his new printer, I've been pointing him to your videos (great timing), and Teaching Tech's videos.
Man you are really revolutionizing 3D printing for those new into 3d printing. I remember that I was struggling wit 3d printing 2 years ago, and your videos alongside with Maker's Muse made it so much of a more enjoyable process for me.
It's nice to see everything coming together in one place. When I got started I had to watch videos by people like yourself, Chuck, Joel and Angus.
Man you make some the best quality 3d printer videos on RUclips. Keep up the great work!
Your videos have been such a great help on my 3D printing journey.
Having jumped straight into the deep end with the notorious A8 (and the subsequent pretty-much-almost-from-scratch-rebuild called the AM8) your insights and tips have saved me in my hours of despair when nothing seemed to work and the machine was close to a spontaneous defenestration. I still keep coming back to them years later when I am stuck somewhere.
Thank you for making these videos and putting on all this effort.
There can never be enough of these print guides especially to just keep up with how quickly 3D printers change. I still remember the days threaded rods were acceptable for printer frames haa
From the title I was envisioning pictures of when you get back to your over night multi-hour print and discovering it failed spectacularly, either it printed a birds nest since it stopped adhering to the print (like when a tall object falls over during print) or a huge blob of material stuck to the hot end.
I really appreciated this series you made; it was what convinced me at the end of 2020 to buy my first printer (ender3 pro). I've had it running nearly 24/7 since; have done extensive upgrades. Early on I experienced intermittent underextrusion that took a while to diagnose; eventually I discovered the cracked idler arm on the extruder (that's a really outdated extruder design). I also had intermittent layer shifting issues which I ascribe to improperly tensioned belts or possibly excessive stepper driver current. Both were great learning experiences, if frustrating in the moment.
I have been very interested in the voron project and appreciated yours&cnckitchen's reviews. I plan to build a voron 2.4 300^3 or 350^3, super hyped for parts to arrive on the slow boat. I will continue to follow your vids, and thank you for your commitment to and emphasis on open source in the printing community.
You rock dude!!!!! I made my first printer looking your videos. exactly one year ago. Now I go for the second. Thank you very much.
This series is better than any paid courses on Udemy teaching the basics about 3D printing.
Great stuff. I got my Prusa MK3S kit in April and after putting it together, I have been printing like crazy. Your videos (and the Prusa forum) have helped me understand a lot of the settings and troubleshoot. Thanks again and keep up the great work!!
Ey Tom is back again with a basics video. I love it!
I have two questions, these questions are not really widely discussed so that is why i am asking.
Questions:
- How does a belt rubbing on one of it's sides effect the print quality?
- How do I minimize overshooting corners without linear advance.
Since Tom hasn't replied yet:
1- belt rubbing will wear out your belt (obviously) but, it probably won't have a big affect on print quality. If the drag is severe enough and your printer has high acceleration, it may cause some skipped steps
2-Tension your belts properly. If the belts are crappy, replace them! Make sure there's no mechanical play in the machine.
i had crazy layer shift on my cr10s pro and all it ended up being was a loose stepper driver pinion gear. love this video series by the way!
6:00 Something to add is a damaged heat break. I couldn't figure out for the life of me why my printer refused to print. Tried quite a few cold pulls including one where I nearly punched myself in the face when it released. (LOL) I took my E3D hotend apart to see where the hangup was and noticed the heat break was bent slighty. Replaced it and it worked much better. Also get a bondtech extruder, the one that came with my mendelmax 2.0 was crap.
damn... I watched all the previous episodes just to find out that 3D printing is not user-friendly at all. hahah Thanks for sharing all the great tips and knowledge Thomas.
Great information Tom, I do think that sometimes we become a little unforgiving with our cheap printers and really expect far to much from them.
I think one of my problems is I am constantly trying to get them to print that little bit better when in reality the quality is pretty dam good especially for the price of the printer!
Oh while complaining about RUclips, I forgot to say thanks Tom great video.
I wish I could get a personal instruction session from you, thank you for your videos!
Espacialy the samples you show like at 8:40 are very usefull for beginners. Thanks for this good video!
How about improving Top Layer Quality? For me this has been the most annoying issue to resolve. In particular, I'm trying to make a few molds for silicone parts that I produce. The side walls come out decent but the top layers never look good. I've tried messing with ironing and skin layers, with little to no improvement. Any top final layer looks like the nozzle dragged over it here or there as well as leaving little lines, almost like stringing but are actually a part of that layer. It looks terrible for a finished part. So far I've only used inexpensive PLA for these molds but have a few rolls of HTPLA from proto-pasta that I'm going to try next. Currently working with a sovol sv01 and Cura. Thanks for the great videos.
Would you recommend keeping your printer in a covered container/box to reduce any dust/dirt build-up?
When adjusting settings to address an issue with a printer, and you're not super familiar with all 3 - try only changing 1 setting at a time. It may take a little longer, but you'll know what change induces what and how, and learn a lot.
Very good video, I'm on a 3d printing subreddit and most posts are about unfixable issues, like the visible layers
this video is awesome he literally talked about all the problems i was having. and i was confused. But the video helped a lot
One issue I was having was filament WAY underextruding. did teaching tech's estep calibration method a ton of times, and numbers were always wildly different. I saw my filament tension wheel was barely turning, so said hey why not? Took off the wheel, gave it a drop of WD40, cleaned off the excess, and it's been printing like a champ ever since. Amount extruded is always also right on and consistent too
Be careful which "WD40" you use - the original formula was a Water Dispersant (hence the "WD") and can be slightly corrosive. Far better to use light machine oil for sliding parts (e.g.: Singer sewing machine oil) or PTFE/lithium grease for bearings.
@@anthonyrich1592 i had some lithium grease back in the day, but all I had laying around was a can of WD40 I've had for a while and I've been broke for a while
Just a suggestion: Maybe sometime you can have a live stream to answer "When things go wrong" questions.
@@CrazyMineCuber Oh ok...then he should never do that again. That would be dumb. Thanks for the insight.
what a great video. now i got a checklist on what i can do to correct things ! thanks
can you make a tutorial on how to 3D print a Fleshlight
yeah that would be helpful
I recently build a Prusa Mk3s clone, Bear frame and extruder modifications. Works great. Your videos are a real help. Ever think about putting in a book or dvd?
Now think I may want to mod my older mk2.5s with the e3d volcano hotend but have questions as to calibration kand z height printing. Maybe a short video on the Prusa e3d mod could be in the future??
Thank you, very informative, you did cover what I had a problem with but I think it's not cheap belts but worn bearings because my belts are good, again thank you for making this updated version of videos for owning a printer.👍😎👍
Great video for new users! I enjoy all your videos. Thanks for making them.
Never forget, filament degradation due to humidity should never be underestimated!
You mentioned how if you went into detail it would be a messy 2 hour video. I'm looking for that 2 hour video. A 2 hour full troubleshooting video with timestamps would be awesome
There's a critical difference between prints meant to look pretty and prints that meant to be practical.
Personally, I prefer to slightly increase flow and overlap to get the best adhesion. Works great for brackets and jigs but doesn't look nice for little figures.
this is so well put, fantastic work
Fantastic video series, Thomas! I've been printing for a while but there's always more to learn and your videos are an excellent reference. Is that an Okinawan shirt, by the way? :)
Hey Tom. I have been 3d printing for 7 years, and have a problem that has been happening for the last couple months that I just can't figure out. I'm using Simplify 3d, printer is a Creality S5, with a Microswiss hotend, Capricorn Bowden, dual gear extruder, silicone heater, etc. She's pretty well upgraded. My outermost layer isn't adhering to the next inner layer. My extrusion multiplyer is spot on. Anything I print with a large vertical wall, the outer perimeter is loose. The rest are just fine. It's just the outer layer. I cannot figure out what the heck is causing this issue. Any suggestions what I should look for? Thanks. Been a subscriber for over 6 years. Thanks for all your help.
You should totally do a guest spot on "This is Rad" Podcast!!!!
love the music, love the shirt, love the tips!
Really informative and well structured. Great video, thank you!
wow what an extremely helpful video! Wish i would have watched this when i got my printer. Maybe i would have taken a better approach to fixing quality issues.
That was very helpful, thanks.
I would sit through a longer video that provided a detailed explanation for all the things that are adjustable in a slicer.
I'm using Flashprint and have about 7 tabs of settings to negotiate!
:)
You're awesome man. It must be incredibly hard to parse what data and in what depth you go. I wonder if 3d printing will ever be like a 50 dollar bubble jet. If you draw an analog to paper printers, 3d printers are still in the Fortran punch card era but improving rapidly.
Wery helpful, you earned yourself place in references on my paper for uni.
In situation of Buying 3D printer from someone for the first time ,
What should i have to check first to confirm that it's Not faulty ? Can you suggest what should be the test print to Check it's Performence and Quality ? Like Hello world for the 3D Printing ?for creality ender
Love you Tom keep doing what you doing!!
Thank you Tom! Just built my first printer (Mk3s). Your videos are definitely a big inspiration. My name's also Tom 😅😂
will you talk about Prusa slicer ? What about cutting thing into parts so you can make helmets or pieces lager then the printer
The one thing I myself noticed was z off set being a very common reason with bed adhesion.
I had a massive layer shift and attributed to driver board.
Love my volcano setup. Good video!
One more nice and intuitive video. Keeping following the next ones from the series.
By the way, where can I get that skull ?
I'm also wondering about that.
Hope someone that knows sees this :)
hello Tom. I know this is off topic for today. I just started using the Prusa slicer and I can not figure out how to get it to scale uniformly. Could really use the help and today's video was awesome keep up the good work.
Using Prusa slicer 2.1.0, look to the left side and select the Scale (S) tool, between the Move and Rotate tools. The handles at the *corners* of the model box let you scale x,y, and z axes together. The other handles only let you change one axis at a time.
Thanks!
Requested it last time
As for peeling corners I notice on enders it's do to offset cooling air flow causing thermal gradient in print. It peels up on right side.
You could redirect airflow but I prefer just avoiding problem by angling large prints so they don't contact over a large area.
Hello Thomas, I know this is two years after you posted this video, but I have had layer shift happen from the gcode file being corrupted by a faulty sd card.
My printer printed perfectly for three weeks, and then one day I got every single issue listed in this video.
Finally an answer to "What could go wrong?"
I always seem to have some filament buildup, at first it seems fine, but then it cures and the nozzle tears the whole thing apart. What am I doing wrong?
Can you make a video like this one, but for resin printers and resin printing issues?
Im looking to buy an affordable 3d printer(around 300-400$) and its mostly as a hobby so i can print stuff like statues and busts and gettin to paint the and all i also live in apartment so no workshop what do you think should i get fdm or resin based printer??!
Well said about hiding artifacts. It seems like half of r/FixMyPrint are posts asking for help to tune out minor defects that are inherent artifacts to the modern diy printing process.
It seems unrealistic expectations and perfectly curated social media posts are not limited to the fitness industry.
Another reason for no extrusion can be too much retraction distance, which can wear off the filament causing a worse grip
If you're seeing filament wear on a Bowden based printer it's usually because the Bowden tube is too long or otherwise inducing too much resistance on the filament between the extruder gears and the hot end. This was a real problem for me on a Core-XY printer I had because the Bowden tube between the extruder gears and the hot end was around 850mm long. I initially replaced the original extruders (which were single gears driving against bearings) with BMG clones (which drove the filament with a gear on two sides) but I eventually gave in and eliminated all but 40mm of Bowden tubing by moving the extruders up onto the hot end assembly itself.
Is there anything other than software issues that can cause layer shifts on a delta printer? I don't see how a slipped belt or motor can cause a perfectly flat offset on a delta, but it happens to me fairly often.
I’m having layer issues with the first layer. I print a raft and it seems that it sticks to the object a lot and the object isn’t filled in on the first layer with lots of holes and looks bad
Love the shirt. I got one very much like it in blue.
Hi, Im having issues printing a model which uses Boole - i connect and flatten the object in C4d , Cura sees the holes (windows in a building) , but the printer ignores the holes
one thing I really get annoyed with is layer separation after the print finishes. I have printed two identical parts at the same time with ASA. 255°C on the hotend, 110°C on the bed. One turned out flawless, the other got layer separation in two places. I have an enclosure and the ambient temperature is stable. Octoprint shows stable print temperatures. Everything should work out actually but it doesn't. I just can't wrap my head around it.
i have a divinci all in one pro. my FIRST layer always comes out with threaded lines...not a solid smooth bottom print. the rest of the print comes out great...but that first layer just wont lay smooth...it looks like string sitting next to one another how do i fix this. thank you.
that is a very nice shirt. thanks for the videos.
Oh man. What have I gotten myself into 😂
What about when the print falls apart and looks like yarn?
But I want the two hour video...
Help. The top surfaces are GONE. I "changed nothing" is mostly accurate. I certainly didn't touch flow. It's even apparent on 2nd layer of rafts (1st prints fine).
Einfach tolle informative Videos :)
Excellent advice. Thanks.
Great video bro
I have an Ender 3D printer. I had been printing great prints for awhile with little to no issues. A few days ago my printer clogged and even after cleaning the nozzle and tube and even changing the nozzle it is not printing right anymore. The nozzle keeps clogging and the print layers are stringy and break very easily. Anything I can do to fix this?
Did you ever figure it out? I'm having the exact same problem currently.
I have a Prusa Mk3 and never get things working.
E.g. first layer comes off bed, print sticks to hot end and way more pls help
Literally I replaced the brass nozzle on my Mk3 yesterday with an E3D Nozzle X, hardened steel with unique nano coating, initial prints look better and any material that gets stuck to the outside wipes off easily with a piece of cloth when it's hot.
I usually avoid the problem by having a slow, thick first layer. e.g.: initial layer height 0.3mm; initial layer line width 250%; initial layer speed 10mm/sec. (Credit to Thomas who mentioned this "in passing" during his "Was live: Creality Ender 3 Build & First Prints!" video.) It can add a lot of time to a print job but would you rather have the print work right the first time and just wait a little longer, or keep repeating the same print because it doesn't stick properly?
Also regularly cleaning the bed with a light detergent or isopropyl alcohol (if you can find any) will remove any grease you might have left behind when removing prints.
I had a problem with the acceleration and velocity in my printer, they were too high. for x and y axis, ended up in 200 from 500 and the z axis went from 20 to 2, that was velocity, acceleration i don´t remember exactly. they work perfectly in those for me at least.
Would anyone know how to fix mid air printing. Like under a chin or like a hanging area? Hard to explain im new to this
Fantastic video, thank you
Please make more resin videos
Very good video!
Thanks for the video!
Can i just kidnap you to fix my 3 printers? The bed leveling is a pain in my butt and i pull my hair out every time i try to fix it. Maybe my expectations to the printers are too high?
Nice shirt!
Thank you.
Thanks!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed the series!
Wow, I want to buy a printer, but now it seems like a lot of work.. But I imagine it would be worth it :)
Making things can be quite satisfying. My advice first is to have an idea what you want to make after the novelty wears off. I want enclosures for arduino projects; others want cosplay costumes; others want to replace broken bicycle parts that are hard or expensive to get,and more. Second advice is, sometimes a cheaper printer is reliable, sometimes it needs work or even parts replaced. Usually a more expensive printer will have fewer issues out of the box. Quality matters. It can be very frustrating as a beginner having problems and not knowing if they are you, the machine, or the slicer. (Thanks to Tom for videos like this!). I have heard several people lament that their first printer was too cheap, and wishing they had saved up for a better one first. Third advice is, don't rush it. Watch the RUclipss, read the reviews, see what others have done, find a Facebook group for the printer you like the look of and absorb knowledge. 3d printing can be frustrating. It can be difficult. And it can also be so very rewarding. :)
There's still no decent Prusa Mini review on RUclips, just saying.
vector 3d one was good, the others i agree with you. bear in mind however, that makers muse and tom like to wait a while to find out all the flaws
Because it is a flawed product, but none of the reviewers want to criticise it and miss out on their free Prusa goodies!
@@farmerwoody123 What's so bad about it? I got it recently and it, umm, just works?
leaving a comment for the algorithm
protip: get in touch with your printer's community.
Top!
#prusaLOVE
wish I would get notified for these. However RUclips says I cant? because the content is made for kids? how lame.
Sounds like some settings on your end. I get notified from every one of his videos.
Love the shirt :-D
Obviously.