After I burnt out the original little DC motor, I wanted a decent standard industrial 3Phase motor. This is actually pretty small :) Thanks for watching.
Fun icecream fact: Eskimo is part of something called "Unilever heartbrand" which is named differently in almost every country. Eskimo was the aussie and previous eastern european name, now here it's called Algida, in other places it's GB Glace, Wall's, Langnese, Swirl's, Frigo, etc. There are about 20 names for it and it's all the same.
"It's probably overkill " ...nice. The ice cream buckets, now that's overkill :) Sunday morning coffee and turd polishing... doesn't get any better. Cheers
Hey! It's great to see that you choose the traditional green from the old days ahah i have a new born in the house but tomorow i'll make some time to got to the forum and answer the PM !! Great work on the lathe, small machines can also do some great work!
Thanks for answering my unasked question "what's the minimum set of mini-lathe parts that you can't (or shouldn't) fabricate yourself?". I've been toying with the idea of building a Gingery lathe (for the experience not the end product) and I really appreciate your attention to machine rigidity and for clearly showing the inherent limitations of a small machine.
Thanks for watching. I would strongly recommend beg, buying or stealing some cast iron lathe bed. Even it if is too big, cut it down. Any watch makers lathe bed would be more rigid than this wet noodle:). Sieg is building to a price. Their short cuts really show up in the lack of bed rigidity.
Do you think the taper roller bearings are overkill compared to angular contact bearings which do not require space modification? It seems as if a lot of people are replacing with angular contact bearings now. (Once my mini lathe is apart I cannot make new spacers)
Yes I agree. The tapered roller bearings are not a great choice. The whole machine is so flexible that the bearing rigidity does not seem to be a large factor in the performance. The few persons whole I have seen measure the concentrity of the two bearing bores were also not impressed.
Did you not consider fitting a machined 'steady' under the headstock where the original motor went as the headstock is mostly overhanging the bed at the back, also a steady under the middle of the bed for much the same reason? :-)
That would be a different machine. Really, you'd be better off starting with one of the Boley, Schaublin, Leinen etc watch making lathe beds, as they are much stiffer.
Overall how do you like those Ikea cabinets? I've been looking at them as a way to get some cheap shop tooling storage but I've been hesitant to pull the trigger since they have such mixed reviews online, some people say they are built way too cheap but yours looks ok?
It is thin sheet metal. Epoxying then together makes a big difference, but they are still pretty flimsy. Epoxying MDF into each drawer would probably make then feel a lot better. The one with the Clarkson T&C accessories in it is about a year old, and some drawers are holding a lot of weight, but still works fine. Mounting them into a rigid stand like my lathe stand actually makes them feel pretty good. I cant see any other options for €40 which would do as well.
@@RotarySMP Thanks for the info! Your sentiment about no other option at this price is exactly what I was thinking! I'm considering ordering 2 or 3 of them and bolting them together and mounting them on a combined base with wheels, hoping that will stiffen them up enough!
@@FKreider I used my parallel jaw pliers to crush the rear flange onto the epoxy as well. There is a nice picture here of someone who did like what you are planning... www.flickr.com/photos/49960717@N08/29102245291
About the gearbox sealing, you could just apply flex seal to the surfaces (shouldn't affect the fit?) And boom it'll hold oil. I have a raiser box for my milling head filled with oil sealed like that and it doesn't leak... From there anyway. The relieved areas will seal up also fine with flex seal but that might be too much of a hackjob for your standards I guess.
I have my doubts about the quality of these cheap steel gears. If they fail, rather than doing a sealed gearbox, I think it would be better to go back to a belt drive direct to the pulley, and regain the torque with a bigger motor. That is why real CNC machines do it. Still, first I'll see how it goes like this. Thanks for watching.
I have a small mini mill with the same head as your lathe. It's just sat about gathering dust. Not sure what to do with it, Feel guilty to sell it to someone because it's just such a turd. Maybe I will polish it one day (:
The spacers don't spin against anything. They are part of the inner race stack up. Fwd bearing, spacer, back gear, rear spacer, rear bearing, outer spacer, encoder pulley and dual nuts. Those two spacers just locate the back gear. Thanks for watching.
You ain”t going to like the noise they make and they get worse as time goes by ! I ended up removing the gears and made a belt drive system that has two speeds and this along with a 3ph motor + vfd means almost no noise . One benefit of this system is in low range at its lowest vfd speed I can’t stop the chuck spinning by hand and the belt drive lever acts like a clutch which allows power tapping / threading with good sensitivity. My spindle gets very hot -i have tried everything including running the bearings with no pre load , different grease and even gear oil . When i built the headstock i fitted double lip seals to the end caps and i think they may be contributing to the heat and maybe also the poly v belt drive on the spindle . I have never measured the temperature but after about 15min of running at 1000rpm you cant hold onto the chuck for more than a second or two . I fitted two grease nipples to the rear of the head that channel grease in through the bearings and pushes the old grease out into the cavity inside the head . My other lathe had the same set up except no seals and it only ever got slightly warm . So when it is all finished are you going to make a name plate or sticker up for it ? Might i suggest “ THE SHINING TURD CNC MANUFACTURING COMPANY “ 😁
Funny part is, I have that 3Ph motor and VFD belt driving the spindle, but decided I like the option of low end torque, and decided to put the gears back in. Could well have been a bad choice that one. Thanks for watching.
Will be a nice machine in the end, unfortunately the original castings are total crap. Same size machine or slightly bigger, build around a big heavy, wide slant bed, closed loop servos with linear scales on all axis, perhaps a 3th milling axis, delivered as parts kit from china, that would be totally awesome. Unfortunately everyone buys those cheap toys, so the china guys have no reason to change.
You got a lot done in this video looking great so far can't wait to see some chips thanks for the videos
I am looking forward to that as well. Thanks for watching.
I love that the motor is almost the same size as than the lathe.
After I burnt out the original little DC motor, I wanted a decent standard industrial 3Phase motor. This is actually pretty small :) Thanks for watching.
Fun icecream fact: Eskimo is part of something called "Unilever heartbrand" which is named differently in almost every country.
Eskimo was the aussie and previous eastern european name, now here it's called Algida, in other places it's GB Glace, Wall's, Langnese, Swirl's, Frigo, etc. There are about 20 names for it and it's all the same.
Thanks for the excellent fun fact :)
Finally it looks like a lathe again! Really interested to see how well the CNC conversion work.
It will be pretty slow on the axis feeds, as these are only Nema 23 steppers. Thanks for watching.
Wow. Enjoyed very much the video. That machine is going to be a thing of beauty when done.
Thanks for watching.
Admit that you bought that cabinet because it exactly fits 3 ice cream containers. ;)
Great series! I love the Schaublin (spelling?) one as well.
Isn't that how we all choose out furniture :)
Thanks for your kind feedback.
@@RotarySMP xD
"It's probably overkill " ...nice.
The ice cream buckets, now that's overkill :)
Sunday morning coffee and turd polishing... doesn't get any better.
Cheers
Thanks for watching.
Hey! It's great to see that you choose the traditional green from the old days ahah i have a new born in the house but tomorow i'll make some time to got to the forum and answer the PM !! Great work on the lathe, small machines can also do some great work!
Happy birthday!!
Thanks for the video. Looking good. Keep safe and stay well.
Thanks Colin. You as well.
Thanks for answering my unasked question "what's the minimum set of mini-lathe parts that you can't (or shouldn't) fabricate yourself?". I've been toying with the idea of building a Gingery lathe (for the experience not the end product) and I really appreciate your attention to machine rigidity and for clearly showing the inherent limitations of a small machine.
Thanks for watching. I would strongly recommend beg, buying or stealing some cast iron lathe bed. Even it if is too big, cut it down. Any watch makers lathe bed would be more rigid than this wet noodle:). Sieg is building to a price. Their short cuts really show up in the lack of bed rigidity.
Well done, I knew it would be the beginings of an accurate machine
I hope so. Thanks for watching.
Starting to look really good now we’ll done.
Thanks for watching.
New subscriber, very nice job on this, really enjoying it, thanks for sharing!
Welcome .and thanks for watching.
re using container is cool
Well, great... Now I have to go and buy some ice cream.... 😀
Go for it. You've earned it. Thanks for watching.
Mart Jakobson, my shop is full of OxiClean tubs.
Do you think the taper roller bearings are overkill compared to angular contact bearings which do not require space modification? It seems as if a lot of people are replacing with angular contact bearings now. (Once my mini lathe is apart I cannot make new spacers)
Yes I agree. The tapered roller bearings are not a great choice. The whole machine is so flexible that the bearing rigidity does not seem to be a large factor in the performance. The few persons whole I have seen measure the concentrity of the two bearing bores were also not impressed.
@@RotarySMP I might bolt machine to slab of granite I happen to have.
@@stevewhite315 It should seriously improve the stiffness. Was this the video where I put a clock on it and twisted the bed with my hands?
A drip feed oiler controlled by a solenoid would keep those gears almost as well lubricated as an oil bath.
True, but would also make a hell of a mess. Thanks for watching.
Did you not consider fitting a machined 'steady' under the headstock where the original motor went as the headstock is mostly overhanging the bed at the back, also a steady under the middle of the bed for much the same reason? :-)
That would be a different machine. Really, you'd be better off starting with one of the Boley, Schaublin, Leinen etc watch making lathe beds, as they are much stiffer.
Overall how do you like those Ikea cabinets? I've been looking at them as a way to get some cheap shop tooling storage but I've been hesitant to pull the trigger since they have such mixed reviews online, some people say they are built way too cheap but yours looks ok?
It is thin sheet metal. Epoxying then together makes a big difference, but they are still pretty flimsy. Epoxying MDF into each drawer would probably make then feel a lot better. The one with the Clarkson T&C accessories in it is about a year old, and some drawers are holding a lot of weight, but still works fine. Mounting them into a rigid stand like my lathe stand actually makes them feel pretty good. I cant see any other options for €40 which would do as well.
@@RotarySMP Thanks for the info! Your sentiment about no other option at this price is exactly what I was thinking! I'm considering ordering 2 or 3 of them and bolting them together and mounting them on a combined base with wheels, hoping that will stiffen them up enough!
@@FKreider I used my parallel jaw pliers to crush the rear flange onto the epoxy as well. There is a nice picture here of someone who did like what you are planning...
www.flickr.com/photos/49960717@N08/29102245291
Good stuff , thanks
Thanks for watching.
About the gearbox sealing, you could just apply flex seal to the surfaces (shouldn't affect the fit?) And boom it'll hold oil. I have a raiser box for my milling head filled with oil sealed like that and it doesn't leak... From there anyway. The relieved areas will seal up also fine with flex seal but that might be too much of a hackjob for your standards I guess.
I have my doubts about the quality of these cheap steel gears. If they fail, rather than doing a sealed gearbox, I think it would be better to go back to a belt drive direct to the pulley, and regain the torque with a bigger motor. That is why real CNC machines do it. Still, first I'll see how it goes like this. Thanks for watching.
Hockey pucks for tiny mini lathe? Are you going to cut them in half?
I dont know yet. Have to buy them first. Thnks for watching.
I have a small mini mill with the same head as your lathe. It's just sat about gathering dust. Not sure what to do with it, Feel guilty to sell it to someone because it's just such a turd. Maybe I will polish it one day (:
Dont feel bad. My turd lurked abandoned in the corner of the garage for years after I got the Boley. Thanks for watching.
The plastic spacers may have been part of the design. Plastic on metal not metal on spinning metal.
The spacers don't spin against anything. They are part of the inner race stack up. Fwd bearing, spacer, back gear, rear spacer, rear bearing, outer spacer, encoder pulley and dual nuts. Those two spacers just locate the back gear. Thanks for watching.
You ain”t going to like the noise they make and they get worse as time goes by !
I ended up removing the gears and made a belt drive system that has two speeds and this along with a 3ph motor + vfd means almost no noise . One benefit of this system is in low range at its lowest vfd speed I can’t stop the chuck spinning by hand and the belt drive lever acts like a clutch which allows power tapping / threading with good sensitivity.
My spindle gets very hot -i have tried everything including running the bearings with no pre load , different grease and even gear oil . When i built the headstock i fitted double lip seals to the end caps and i think they may be contributing to the heat and maybe also the poly v belt drive on the spindle . I have never measured the temperature but after about 15min of running at 1000rpm you cant hold onto the chuck for more than a second or two .
I fitted two grease nipples to the rear of the head that channel grease in through the bearings and pushes the old grease out into the cavity inside the head . My other lathe had the same set up except no seals and it only ever got slightly warm .
So when it is all finished are you going to make a name plate or sticker up for it ? Might i suggest “ THE SHINING TURD CNC MANUFACTURING COMPANY “ 😁
Funny part is, I have that 3Ph motor and VFD belt driving the spindle, but decided I like the option of low end torque, and decided to put the gears back in. Could well have been a bad choice that one. Thanks for watching.
Will be a nice machine in the end, unfortunately the original castings are total crap.
Same size machine or slightly bigger, build around a big heavy, wide slant bed, closed loop servos with linear scales on all axis, perhaps a 3th milling axis, delivered as parts kit from china, that would be totally awesome.
Unfortunately everyone buys those cheap toys, so the china guys have no reason to change.
I agree with you. The machine you describe would be a modernised Emco 120. Totally different market and price point unfortunately.