Thanks for the tutorial man! Saved me $700+ over a remanufactured unit! Helps to have a shop press for everything too. I made a custom piece of pipe to fit the three spoke part to separate the upper half and grabbed that with a pipe wrench, I was scared I was gonna break the cast aluminum with a pry bar.
@@dustinwood2585 no problem. Separating the two halves is definitely the worst part. It stress me out every time. I have good access to a welder now so I usually just makes tools now when I need them.
Took a look at & just cleaned everything up. Spring “felt” good, no burrs or unusual wear apparent. I did clean up throttle body, re routed PVC and all appears good to go for now.👍
TO ALL WHO ARE HAVING TROUBLE DISASSEBLING THE CLUTCH: I was unable to unscrew the aluminum piece on my clutch after lubrication, heat, and brute force. Here is how I did it: 1-1/16" 3/4 drive 12pt socket. Cut two slots 180 degrees out from each other so that when you place it over the shaft it fits over whatever you use for the pin to go through the shaft holes. I used a 1/4" impact driver extension bit (good grade tough material). Hold the aluminum threaded hub with a gloved hand or clamp it some kind of way, I just held it. Be sure that since you are turning the shaft the impact is turning clockwise. Give it hell. 3/4 impact level hell. Good luck to you all and many thanks to @atvrepairsandmore2482 for taking the time to share your work!
Thank you for this. I have a 2012 that was stolen two months after I got it for our small farm. Well, just recently recovered it & cosmetically it’s very rough but @ 867 hours it runs great. The only apparent issue was it needed a battery, done, and it cranked right up and ran smoother than a baby’s butt. So, mechanically it appears solid except had the same issue as you describe and I believe,🤞 I can de burr, clean up/ polish bearing surfaces, etc. and it should do what its new purpose will be and that is to ride my Grandson around our small farm. Again, 😊 thank you. Oh, OK I’m gonna OCD nerd out (& apologize in advance) a 10mm socket/bolt head, 99.9/10th’s % will be a 6mm bolt with a “avg”, torque value of 90 inch lbs. LOL, when a kid & when school let out, I put new bikes together for a Yamaha dealer. Loved & learned off road going FAST & ended up owning a multiline motorcycle dealership and racing Desert & MX, plus a few Hare & Hounds for years.
I see this really often on the mules. Might be able to clean the clutch good but most the time the clutch needs new parts. I just tighten stuff by feel. Unless it’s a head bolt or some other bolt that holds on something that holds air pressure or fluid.
I greet you! I wanted to change those pads myself on a 2007 polaris sportsman 500 but couldn't get that part to thread. I gave even with heat and nothing. I gave up because he wanted to break up with acx with everything.
Great video. Is there any way to know if just a spring could be weak? I’ve got a 3010 mule. Clutch seems to work good engages and disengages with no noise and pulls good. It will sometimes just barely drag the belt and cause a hard shift. I can depress the spring with almost finger pressure and even with idle all the way down it’ll sometimes still barely drag the belt. Thanks
I have a 2005 3010 and the primary clutch was stuck fully in engaged, would not release. Only 300 hrs on the clock so should not need rebuilt. I was wondering if I could rub some grease on the fly weights or the rollers that they slide on? I first thought of silicone spray but afraid it might get on the friction surface of the belt or pulleys. Any other thoughts appreciated. Thanks in advance.
@@atvrepairsandmore2482But what type spray? I know silicone is really hard to get off one it has gotten on a surface. WD40 just evaporates so its not a good choice as a lubricant. TIA
I rebuilt my 4010 clutch and installed new spring and it engages while idling sometimes, is there a shim kit for spring? the spring seams a little weak, the new spring is better but not enough
As long as you installed every new part in the clutch kit, I’d make sure there are no grooves in the surface of the clutch. I’m not sure if they make a shim list for these or not but you could probably find a spring or shim kit that works on it
It’s a mod I found on RUclips. A guy made a good video on it. All you have to do is trim the tool and add a resistor in the tool. I only did it because dewalt didn’t make a ratchet. They just recently came out with one. Been using it hard for a year with no issues
Vă salut! Am vrut să schimb și eu acele pastile la un polaris sportsman 500 din 2007 dar nu am putut reuși să desfiletez acea piesă. Am dat chiar și cu căldură și nimic. Am renunțat că vroia să se desfacă cu acx cu tot.
Hello. Wayne from Queensland. I have a 2510 diesel mule 2001 model. Is the bolt that holds the clutch onto the crank a reverse thread? Cheers from down under.
![[DRAGON BALL LEGENDS REVEALS ＆ STUFF] LEGENDS FESTIVAL 2024 Special Edition Part 1](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mV5bGIswTtQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the tutorial man! Saved me $700+ over a remanufactured unit! Helps to have a shop press for everything too. I made a custom piece of pipe to fit the three spoke part to separate the upper half and grabbed that with a pipe wrench, I was scared I was gonna break the cast aluminum with a pry bar.
@@dustinwood2585 no problem. Separating the two halves is definitely the worst part. It stress me out every time. I have good access to a welder now so I usually just makes tools now when I need them.
Good video man. Helped me get all the little pieces in
Took a look at & just cleaned everything up. Spring “felt” good, no burrs or unusual wear apparent. I did clean up throttle body, re routed PVC and all appears good to go for now.👍
good information on this repair. it was a big help Thank you
TO ALL WHO ARE HAVING TROUBLE DISASSEBLING THE CLUTCH:
I was unable to unscrew the aluminum piece on my clutch after lubrication, heat, and brute force. Here is how I did it:
1-1/16" 3/4 drive 12pt socket. Cut two slots 180 degrees out from each other so that when you place it over the shaft it fits over whatever you use for the pin to go through the shaft holes. I used a 1/4" impact driver extension bit (good grade tough material). Hold the aluminum threaded hub with a gloved hand or clamp it some kind of way, I just held it. Be sure that since you are turning the shaft the impact is turning clockwise. Give it hell. 3/4 impact level hell. Good luck to you all and many thanks to @atvrepairsandmore2482 for taking the time to share your work!
Thank you for this. I have a 2012 that was stolen two months after I got it for our small farm. Well, just recently recovered it & cosmetically it’s very rough but @ 867 hours it runs great. The only apparent issue was it needed a battery, done, and it cranked right up and ran smoother than a baby’s butt. So, mechanically it appears solid except had the same issue as you describe and I believe,🤞 I can de burr, clean up/ polish bearing surfaces, etc. and it should do what its new purpose will be and that is to ride my Grandson around our small farm. Again, 😊 thank you. Oh, OK I’m gonna OCD nerd out (& apologize in advance) a 10mm socket/bolt head, 99.9/10th’s % will be a 6mm bolt with a “avg”, torque value of 90 inch lbs. LOL, when a kid & when school let out, I put new bikes together for a Yamaha dealer. Loved & learned off road going FAST & ended up owning a multiline motorcycle dealership and racing Desert & MX, plus a few Hare & Hounds for years.
I see this really often on the mules. Might be able to clean the clutch good but most the time the clutch needs new parts. I just tighten stuff by feel. Unless it’s a head bolt or some other bolt that holds on something that holds air pressure or fluid.
Thank You for information and advice, seems to be a easy fix now
I greet you! I wanted to change those pads myself on a 2007 polaris sportsman 500 but couldn't get that part to thread. I gave even with heat and nothing. I gave up because he wanted to break up with acx with everything.
It takes some patience and some effort. Sometimes they come right off and sometimes they fight hard
Great video. Is there any way to know if just a spring could be weak? I’ve got a 3010 mule. Clutch seems to work good engages and disengages with no noise and pulls good. It will sometimes just barely drag the belt and cause a hard shift. I can depress the spring with almost finger pressure and even with idle all the way down it’ll sometimes still barely drag the belt. Thanks
You can buy the spring individually from the kit. I’d probably go that route just to check it. The spring is very easy to swap
@@atvrepairsandmore2482 Cool that’s what I was thinking replace the spring and old belt and see how it did. Just wanted a second opinion thanks!
Do you know where you got your clutch puller from I’m having a hard time finding one with the correct threads
Will a c clamp push the rollers in place ??
I have a 2005 3010 and the primary clutch was stuck fully in engaged, would not release. Only 300 hrs on the clock so should not need rebuilt. I was wondering if I could rub some grease on the fly weights or the rollers that they slide on? I first thought of silicone spray but afraid it might get on the friction surface of the belt or pulleys. Any other thoughts appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Spraying it is fine but if you get some on the surface just clean it with brake cleaner.
@@atvrepairsandmore2482But what type spray? I know silicone is really hard to get off one it has gotten on a surface. WD40 just evaporates so its not a good choice as a lubricant. TIA
@@brianthompson8425 I would use silicone or something thick that won’t come off right away
I rebuilt my 4010 clutch and installed new spring and it engages while idling sometimes, is there a shim kit for spring? the spring seams a little weak, the new spring is better but not enough
As long as you installed every new part in the clutch kit, I’d make sure there are no grooves in the surface of the clutch. I’m not sure if they make a shim list for these or not but you could probably find a spring or shim kit that works on it
How do you get the clutch out if the thread inside stripped do you have any idea
What's up with the DeWalt battery on the Hercules ratchet
It’s a mod I found on RUclips. A guy made a good video on it. All you have to do is trim the tool and add a resistor in the tool. I only did it because dewalt didn’t make a ratchet. They just recently came out with one. Been using it hard for a year with no issues
@@atvrepairsandmore2482 ahh ic. Yeah looks like a handy tool! You don't happen to have a link to the video do you?
How did you take it out. Did you use special tools?
Yes you need a clutch puller.
WHERE DID YOU GET THE CLUTCH REBUILD KIT FROM
I bought it on ebay
How can I pull the clutch out if the thread inside stripped when I try tu pull it whit a different bolt it's a mule 4010 gasoline engine
Did you strip the threads on the clutch or on the engine crank shaft?
@@atvrepairsandmore2482 I think it's the threads of the clutch because they're not to far in, or how long it's the engine shaft?
@@atvrepairsandmore2482What if you stripped the threads on the drive shaft? Asking for a friend….. 😔
Vă salut! Am vrut să schimb și eu acele pastile la un polaris sportsman 500 din 2007 dar nu am putut reuși să desfiletez acea piesă. Am dat chiar și cu căldură și nimic. Am renunțat că vroia să se desfacă cu acx cu tot.
Hello. Wayne from Queensland. I have a 2510 diesel mule 2001 model. Is the bolt that holds the clutch onto the crank a reverse thread? Cheers from down under.
How do I get this piece off of the engine?
You need a clutch puller.
I’m more of a guy who presses things not beat them together
?
A few light taps with the hammer has more finesse than pressing in the vice or an up right press.