Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
As a Stihl gold factory certified technician, why can't Stihl put some grease on the clutch shoe pivot bushings. That's what I do with this repair. Once again she made a great video that was spot on. Outstanding!
Why does she use the piston stop and plug removal? Because i just pull the three bolts near the clutch and head comes apart separate from the shaft side. Easy and i cannot figure out why she does the extra steps?
Finally a clutch video nice you can't leave a Stihl outside in the rain the clutch pins seize up maybe sell the customer a engine cover that stop my clutch problem thanks nice video
There are good and bad videos. This one is superb. I might add two notes of caution however. When you crack the clutch housing away from the trimmer and later put it back together, be sure the end of the throttle cable fits into the black plastic housing intended for it. Otherwise the cable will be prone to jump off the guide pulley channel to the carb. This happened to me and made the engine Hi/Lo speed adjustments problematic. Also, be sure to slip the tiny blue and black wires back into the tiny guide-slot that houses them, otherwise the wires might get cut by the orange engine housing. A picture would be much easier, but I'm limited to words - I don't know how to attach pictures to the comments. Apart from that, thanks; best descriptive video I've seen yet!
I just appreciate your efficiency in making repairs. I'm always forgetting or misplacing tools, looking for screws, forgetting how linkages are supposed to go, etc. Nice to watch professionals.
Thanks for all ur information, I’m retired and took a part time job at a local golf course working on their equipment and u have become my go to source for repairs on the Stihl equipment we are using. Thanks Kurt
Great video as usual. I had this problem on my Stihl FS111. Replaced clutch after checking shaft, as you showed us in video. However still didn't spin! My son (a car mechanic) looked at it and took the shaft out and put it the other way round. This was the problem. Shaft was only worn at the clutch end. Still I have a new clutch and shaft now!
This was going to be my comment too. The clearance between the bushing and the clutch is very small and just a little rust will seize the clutch levers to the pivot. Anti- seize helps control the rust and the clutch will last much longer and function properly. Good call!
The problem with string trimmers is that they sometimes sit idle for months during the winter. During this time rust attacks the clutch and gas turns into turpentine. So drain out the gas and spray some Kroil on the clutch during this time. Also remember to get some grease in the gearbox down by the trimmer head.
When the clutch won't clutch, it really is a crutch, and makes your difficult day all too much. But with your stellar skills, you managed to fix it, and now the weed wacker grass kicker, lives another day, for some young whipper snapper, to trim the yard.
Informative, well explained. Another good video from you. Thanks! I like to watch these sort of things even though I am not having the problem at the moment. But when it does happen I can at least recall what sort of needs to be done. And how difficult or not the repair will be. And then - will look up your video again. Excellent!
Great info. I have one that continues turn at idle, adjusted carburetor to prevent, can't go any lower on idle, stuck in engagement. Cleaned and wire brushed. Going to replace with new, bushings and plates. They like the machine, so going to make it right. Again thanks, using you as a resource.
Need to replace my clutch on Stihl HT101. Your video is a great help. You explained the procedure in a very concise and understandable manner! Thank you very much!!!
Love your videos!!..I watch on my large TV so all I can do is "like" , therefore in order to comment, use my computer or mobile phone. Thanks for the well done ,step by step telling what YOU are doing, but why.. Thanks. Again wish I could have gotten demos like you do when I was younger (am 86yrs young) and worked on my equipment!!!!!Love you!
You put a new plug in without checking the gap, a no no, box might have been bumped/dropped causing gap to close up which could cause starting/ running problems. Good job on clutch repair.
I have a suggestion like how about putting the tool numbers / part numbers on the items mentioned with links where to purchase them when you mention the items in your videos.
Great video, made it look easy. My concern is anyone using a cordless "screwdriver" be careful not to over tighten the screws as the are going into aluminium and may strip the thread. Same for tightening the spark plug.
Hello Chick ☺️ every time I watch your channel I learn something new just wonderful by the way I love Echo I have an Echo chain saw excellent also my trimmer we call them whipper snippets in Aussie is a Stihl76 had it 25 years very little trouble great tool love your channel keep it up
And if you have to replace the clutch drum? I have a KM-131R and the drum and driveshaft needed replaced. Driveshaft is a piece of cake, but the drum has a "C" clip 'way down a hole, my snap ring pliers can't get in there - so I'm shopping for a set of "needle nose" snap ring pliers... though I might check with you to see if I'm missing something. Thanks, these are great videos! You helped me fix the valve lash/timing on this machine and no it starts like a breeze!
This was introduced to watch as I’m a Stihl user😀 Was going to ask diagnosing clutch vs gearbox? You answered by twisting the shaft turning the head. Rusty perhaps in rainy weather Feel confident to do that job now, if I had to, thanks Chickanic 😀 Try to upsell a Shihl Strap...😀 When is next live? Have a nice day everyone...
@chickanic How many clutch assemblies can one expect to replace in a single year after 6 years. My residential FS56RC is on its second one this year as of today.
I would pull the shaft out and clean and grease it while I had the shaft apart. The shaft is probably filthy and the grease hardened. I lube them back with high temp wheel bearing grease and coat the shaft pretty liberally after sanding off any burrs from it with wet or dry sandpaper. I wet sand it to a perfect sheen. I would also clean the sprocket interior with break cleaner and a clean shop towel.
Mostly happens with 4mix engines, usually the spring breaks and it's because they can't keep a steady rev like 2 stroke. One way or another if you're using a 4mix for edging lawns etc you're going to have clutch issues eventually. I use to carry spare springs and change them on the job. Once you have done it a few times it's fast. I mostly certainly don't remove the shaft as it's time consuming. Just remove the shaft and housing together. If you use the 4mix like the fs 130 I have for section clearing only then your usually running it at full bore so no clutch issues.
These are my cleaning and "have to touch a Stihl backpack blower" gloves. When a Stihl product is left outside in the sun, the fiberglass it is made with will give you pokeys everywhere it touches your skin. I HATE POKIES!!! LOL!
Is there a bushing or bearing in the clutch that needs grease once in while? Like the little needle bearing in a chainsaw clutch. Is it easy to lube it at the same time as clutch replacement?
I have a friend who has a Troybilt riding mower , when the blades are engaged after just a few seconds it blows the fuse , any idea what problem is ? Thanks for another great video .
Great video thanks - do I need the piston stop (not part of my tool kit) ? Looks like the clutch could be removed just by stopping it spinning while unscrewing
@Chickanic. Thanks Brie for another great repair video. Now I know of another toll I need. The piston stop. I meant to remove the bolts holding the blades on my mower and accidentally removed the bolt that holds the blade holder to the shaft. The piston stop looks like a better and safer way to go to make sure the bolt for the blade holder is properly tightened. Hope you and your family stay safe and well.
Just use a well placed 2" x 4" piece of lumber through the discharge chute / mower deck to wedge the blade from moving is all i use to hold the blade stationary then cinch the blade bolt down to proper torque Just remember to leave the coil plug boot/ wire off the spark plug before you work on it.
@@onthelake9554 Thanks for the warning. I didn't know that I shouldn't use a piston stop for keeping the flywheel from moving as I try to tighten the blade holder back on the shaft. I accidentally loosend that bolt instead of the 2 bolts holding the blades on the blade holder. What would you suggest I use to keep the flywheel or shaft from moving while I tighten that holder bolt? Thank you.
i literally just bought an ht 105 and just started it brand new and its doing this. it has a 4 year warranty. should i fix things myself if its under warranty?
if you buy an old style oil filter wrench set at the wide setting it holds the flywheel fins in 3 pionts to allow you to remove and install clutches with ease...id add a photo to demonstrate but can't...
I have a fs56rs Stihl trimmer. Do I have to worry about the clutch on it. Every year I have 5 acres of property to trim down. It has anywhere from first size rocks to one's that weight several 100lbs so a mower wouldn't last 20 seconds and there's no way I could ever buy 1 of the line mowers. Also, how hard would it be to convert it to the handle bar version? Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
Great vids and subed :) Quick question about the wave washers - in the video it appears that the outside curved face of the washer rests against the plate and the inside curved face rests against the clutch itself - correct?
Thanks for this. I thought I had a clutch problem on my weed eater but now I’m not so sure. When I run the machine, the head spins but as soon as I apply the head to the weeds the head just stops. Any idea deals what the problem might be?
There is no real need to use a solvent like she did. Light rust like that shown responds well to wire brushing or sanding with emery cloth. A brass mini wire brush in a Dremel tool is excellent for tight places, although the brushes wear fast. Aerosol brake cleaner, a fast-evaporating solvent that leaves no residue, works well for cleaning dust and any other residue.
We have a 460fs the shaft looks like it has shortened, is that a sign of wore out clutch? It’s not sticking out of the shaft hosing tube far enough, it’s only sticking out less then a quarter inch of the tube
Do you see this happen on the Stihl fs91r? I’m coming from a echo 2620 i love it just when I see a deal I kinda wanna go for it. If not I’ll stay with my echo
Thank you for explaining why my Stihl hl100 string trimmer head won’t spin, great video. So I need a clutch for an HL100 Stihl. Where would I buy it in your Amazon link?
Funny, I’ve worked on hundreds of these units and have never seen a clutch stuck open or closed. HS 82’s are a different story. Our lack of rain in AZ probably has something to do with it.
So, how long do these clutches last? I bought mine in 1995 and it is in heavy yearround use on a 20-acre estate, only with the three-blade head. The clutch has never needed replacing.
What about one that just makes a grinding noise and will hardly engage I pulled it apart put good used clutch doing same noise from clutch house the trimmer head gearbox itself is good
Mine stopped spinning when I was cutting brush, sounded just like when your chain falls off your chainsaw , the sound came from up near the engine so I took shaft apart checked clutch it looked fine, checked the drive both ends look good , replaced the gear head started working good for about a couple minutes did the same thing again . Took apart shaft again started it the shaft seemed to be spinning fine kinda at a loss ????
Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
As a Stihl gold factory certified technician, why can't Stihl put some grease on the clutch shoe pivot bushings. That's what I do with this repair. Once again she made a great video that was spot on. Outstanding!
Because grease inside a clutch is not a good idea. They should be made from self lubricating material bushings but stihl and what she used to be.
I still put a tad of grease in it, never had a problem and it stops the ideal noise 😊
Maybe Neverseez VERY sparingly? But I thought, Lard in a Frictionally Type Thing?
Hmmmm...🤔
Why does she use the piston stop and plug removal? Because i just pull the three bolts near the clutch and head comes apart separate from the shaft side. Easy and i cannot figure out why she does the extra steps?
I like how she shows what’s wrong with it fix’s it then so it working
Finally a clutch video nice you can't leave a Stihl outside in the rain the clutch pins seize up maybe sell the customer a engine cover that stop my clutch problem thanks nice video
chic I usualy put a slight layer of loctite antiseize on the od of the bushings ,I had many came in with bushings locked up
Good camera work, good lighting, clear description, clear 'warnings'.
Thank you.
There are good and bad videos. This one is superb. I might add two notes of caution however. When you crack the clutch housing away from the trimmer and later put it back together, be sure the end of the throttle cable fits into the black plastic housing intended for it. Otherwise the cable will be prone to jump off the guide pulley channel to the carb. This happened to me and made the engine Hi/Lo speed adjustments problematic. Also, be sure to slip the tiny blue and black wires back into the tiny guide-slot that houses them, otherwise the wires might get cut by the orange engine housing. A picture would be much easier, but I'm limited to words - I don't know how to attach pictures to the comments. Apart from that, thanks; best descriptive video I've seen yet!
I just appreciate your efficiency in making repairs. I'm always forgetting or misplacing tools, looking for screws, forgetting how linkages are supposed to go, etc. Nice to watch professionals.
Ah yes. The miracles of video editing.
Take picture of work before disassembly, helps a lot..
What lubricant did you use
Thanks for all ur information, I’m retired and took a part time job at a local golf course working on their equipment and u have become my go to source for repairs on the Stihl equipment we are using.
Thanks
Kurt
Just want to say a big thank you for your videos. Enjoy everyone.
Great video as usual. I had this problem on my Stihl FS111. Replaced clutch after checking shaft, as you showed us in video. However still didn't spin! My son (a car mechanic) looked at it and took the shaft out and put it the other way round. This was the problem. Shaft was only worn at the clutch end. Still I have a new clutch and shaft now!
You showed what was wrong.
And step by step on how to change that clutch 👍🏾👊🏾🇺🇲.
Your videos are always easy to follow and straight to the point.
This is better than going to update classes !!!! Thank you !
Add some anti-seize to the clutch bushing surfaces to help protect the surface from rusting again.
This was going to be my comment too. The clearance between the bushing and the clutch is very small and just a little rust will seize the clutch levers to the pivot. Anti- seize helps control the rust and the clutch will last much longer and function properly. Good call!
I think I'm falling in love with this chick. So great to watch these videos
Thank I like it that you give us the part numbers when you do the repair
The problem with string trimmers is that they sometimes sit idle for months during the winter. During this time rust attacks the clutch and gas turns into turpentine. So drain out the gas and spray some Kroil on the clutch during this time. Also remember to get some grease in the gearbox down by the trimmer head.
@Tommy Ealey That's why you should only use non ethanol gas in any small engine.
And still use a fuel stabilizer. @@davidmorse8432
When the clutch won't clutch, it really is a crutch, and makes your difficult day all too much. But with your stellar skills, you managed to fix it, and now the weed wacker grass kicker, lives another day, for some young whipper snapper, to trim the yard.
You are a poet!
@@davidmorse8432 Thanks, and you are pretty stellar for saying so!
My husband and start watching a few days ago! We love your channel!
Informative, well explained. Another good video from you. Thanks! I like to watch these sort of things even though I am not having the problem at the moment. But when it does happen I can at least recall what sort of needs to be done. And how difficult or not the repair will be. And then - will look up your video again. Excellent!
Great info. I have one that continues turn at idle, adjusted carburetor to prevent, can't go any lower on idle, stuck in engagement. Cleaned and wire brushed.
Going to replace with new, bushings and plates.
They like the machine, so going to make it right.
Again thanks, using you as a resource.
Need to replace my clutch on Stihl HT101. Your video is a great help. You explained the procedure in a very concise and understandable manner! Thank you very much!!!
Love your videos!!..I watch on my large TV so all I can do is "like" , therefore in order to comment, use my computer or mobile phone. Thanks for the well done ,step by step telling what YOU are doing, but why.. Thanks. Again wish I could have gotten demos like you do when I was younger (am 86yrs young) and worked on my equipment!!!!!Love you!
You put a new plug in without checking the gap, a no no, box might have been bumped/dropped causing gap to close up which could cause starting/ running problems. Good job on clutch repair.
I have a suggestion like how about putting the tool numbers / part numbers on the items mentioned with links where to purchase them when you mention the items in your videos.
Great video, made it look easy. My concern is anyone using a cordless "screwdriver" be careful not to over tighten the screws as the are going into aluminium and may strip the thread. Same for tightening the spark plug.
Better to buy a cordless Torque Screwdrivers that has Calibration Certificate of the actual torque in each setting.
Thanks for creating this video from 🇦🇺
It is so nice to turn around and grab the parts that you need. Very good video. Thanks.
One of the Best RUclips girls! We Love you Chickanic!
Aw! Thanks again Fred!
@@Chickanic,
Such a good public speaker and the Heart ♥️ of a Teacher!
Love this channel. I have learned so much. Thanks Chickanic. 👍
So glad she's wearing safety glasses!
Hello Chick ☺️ every time I watch your channel I learn something new just wonderful by the way I love Echo I have an Echo chain saw excellent also my trimmer we call them whipper snippets in Aussie is a Stihl76 had it 25 years very little trouble great tool love your channel keep it up
And if you have to replace the clutch drum? I have a KM-131R and the drum and driveshaft needed replaced. Driveshaft is a piece of cake, but the drum has a "C" clip 'way down a hole, my snap ring pliers can't get in there - so I'm shopping for a set of "needle nose" snap ring pliers... though I might check with you to see if I'm missing something. Thanks, these are great videos! You helped me fix the valve lash/timing on this machine and no it starts like a breeze!
This was introduced to watch as I’m a Stihl user😀
Was going to ask diagnosing clutch vs gearbox?
You answered by twisting the shaft turning the head.
Rusty perhaps in rainy weather
Feel confident to do that job now, if I had to, thanks Chickanic 😀
Try to upsell a Shihl Strap...😀
When is next live?
Have a nice day everyone...
Hey Rick! We have been doing lives every other Sunday. See ya there!
@chickanic How many clutch assemblies can one expect to replace in a single year after 6 years. My residential FS56RC is on its second one this year as of today.
I would pull the shaft out and clean and grease it while I had the shaft apart. The shaft is probably filthy and the grease hardened. I lube them back with high temp wheel bearing grease and coat the shaft pretty liberally after sanding off any burrs from it with wet or dry sandpaper. I wet sand it to a perfect sheen. I would also clean the sprocket interior with break cleaner and a clean shop towel.
Thankyou for that, just been given one to sort with the clutch absolutely solid!
OK, Now after watching you do this one, I think I can put a new clutch on this fs250 & get it back up and going! Thank You!
Great video Chickanic. I think my FS130 needs a new clutch, opposite problem it won't stop spinning even though I've adjusted the idle. Thanks again.
I enjoy your videos.....and they have solved some of my small engine issues. Great stuff, keep it up!
Mostly happens with 4mix engines, usually the spring breaks and it's because they can't keep a steady rev like 2 stroke. One way or another if you're using a 4mix for edging lawns etc you're going to have clutch issues eventually. I use to carry spare springs and change them on the job. Once you have done it a few times it's fast. I mostly certainly don't remove the shaft as it's time consuming. Just remove the shaft and housing together. If you use the 4mix like the fs 130 I have for section clearing only then your usually running it at full bore so no clutch issues.
I have s stihl fs130r 7 year old just now needing a clutch it been used very hard can’t complain at all
Love the gloves - true Chickanick style
These are my cleaning and "have to touch a Stihl backpack blower" gloves. When a Stihl product is left outside in the sun, the fiberglass it is made with will give you pokeys everywhere it touches your skin. I HATE POKIES!!! LOL!
@@Chickanic Friend, the revolutions 13200 max for the saw 372xp oe 2003 are okay?
What was the fluid used to clean the rust?
Awesome! Thanks for posting! Chickanic is the best on RUclips!
Thanks so much for watching!
Another really great and helpful video, Chickanic! One question, what did you use to clean the rust?
+1; I was wondering the same thing. I've just started using Evapo-rust, and with mixed results.
Howdy !WONDERFUL PERSON! it's good to spend a Sunday eve with a friend!
Thanks Joe!
Geat step by step explanation! Thanks so much!
brilliant Chickaniic thanks, did repair as instructed ,Works great .
I have an fs 75 with a curved shaft. the long plastic bushing is waffled and they say not available at the dealer. Any ideas ? Great video.
Is there a bushing or bearing in the clutch that needs grease once in while? Like the little needle bearing in a chainsaw clutch. Is it easy to lube it at the same time as clutch replacement?
I have a friend who has a Troybilt riding mower , when the blades are engaged after just a few seconds it blows the fuse , any idea what problem is ? Thanks for another great video .
Will I need a piston stop for this job?
Great video.
Really enjoy all your videos. Thank you !
Thank you 👍 helped me out with my old machine
Thank you for your helpful informative videos. Do you need to lubricate the shaft on the FS111, or just the gearbox?
Great video thanks - do I need the piston stop (not part of my tool kit) ? Looks like the clutch could be removed just by stopping it spinning while unscrewing
Great video! I assume you checked/set the gap on the new spark plug??
I enjoy your show i have learned so many things
@Chickanic. Thanks Brie for another great repair video. Now I know of another toll I need. The piston stop. I meant to remove the bolts holding the blades on my mower and accidentally removed the bolt that holds the blade holder to the shaft. The piston stop looks like a better and safer way to go to make sure the bolt for the blade holder is properly tightened.
Hope you and your family stay safe and well.
Just use a well placed 2" x 4" piece of lumber through the discharge chute / mower deck to wedge
the blade from moving is all i use to hold the blade stationary then cinch the blade bolt down to proper torque
Just remember to leave the coil plug boot/ wire off the spark plug before you work on it.
Piston stops ruin engines when not used properly , not for changing blades ever.
@@onthelake9554 Thanks for the warning. I didn't know that I shouldn't use a piston stop for keeping the flywheel from moving as I try to tighten the blade holder back on the shaft. I accidentally loosend that bolt instead of the 2 bolts holding the blades on the blade holder. What would you suggest I use to keep the flywheel or shaft from moving while I tighten that holder bolt?
Thank you.
@@ccadama Use rope in the cylinder if you must lock it up .
@@onthelake9554 Exactly
Good job explaining
I appreciate the haircut offer on 11:55 in the video, but mine's fairly well trimmed short already.
I have seen the drive shafts strip out on those if they are used under heavy load
i literally just bought an ht 105 and just started it brand new and its doing this. it has a 4 year warranty. should i fix things myself if its under warranty?
Keep these great informative videos coming !!! Always learn something great instructor easy to follow doesn't miss a trick.
What about beed blasting the old clutch? Remove the rust and drum😊
I've got to prep mine for a long sit.
Another logical & informative video. Thank you.
Most excellent tutorial, cheers
Great job making it all look so easy. Am I confused or did you forget the third screw in the bottom of the clutch housing?
if you buy an old style oil filter wrench set at the wide setting it holds the flywheel fins in 3 pionts to allow you to remove and install clutches with ease...id add a photo to demonstrate but can't...
I have a fs56rs Stihl trimmer. Do I have to worry about the clutch on it. Every year I have 5 acres of property to trim down. It has anywhere from first size rocks to one's that weight several 100lbs so a mower wouldn't last 20 seconds and there's no way I could ever buy 1 of the line mowers. Also, how hard would it be to convert it to the handle bar version? Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
This video was really helpful. Where did you get your piston stop? Thanks -
Great job Girl!
Very good video! The volume wasn’t loud enough to hear you. I can’t hear well but not many videos that I can’t hear. Thank you for the video!
Could i ask where you find your long shank torx that fits into your impact driver? Thanks for your vids!
Great vids and subed :) Quick question about the wave washers - in the video it appears that the outside curved face of the washer rests against the plate and the inside curved face rests against the clutch itself - correct?
Thanks for this. I thought I had a clutch problem on my weed eater but now I’m not so sure. When I run the machine, the head spins but as soon as I apply the head to the weeds the head just stops. Any idea deals what the problem might be?
Can you tell me what you used to clean the rust off the housing.
There is no real need to use a solvent like she did. Light rust like that shown responds well to wire brushing or sanding with emery cloth. A brass mini wire brush in a Dremel tool is excellent for tight places, although the brushes wear fast. Aerosol brake cleaner, a fast-evaporating solvent that leaves no residue, works well for cleaning dust and any other residue.
We have a 460fs the shaft looks like it has shortened, is that a sign of wore out clutch? It’s not sticking out of the shaft hosing tube far enough, it’s only sticking out less then a quarter inch of the tube
Great video chik
Do you see this happen on the Stihl fs91r? I’m coming from a echo 2620 i love it just when I see a deal I kinda wanna go for it. If not I’ll stay with my echo
Another job well done...thanks for the DIY video !!!!
Sorry for being a complete noob, but why do you need a piston stop?
Chickanic depends which head😀😀😀
Is there anything I can use in place of the piston stop l.? I don't have access to one of those.
Thank you for explaining why my Stihl hl100 string trimmer head won’t spin, great video. So I need a clutch for an HL100 Stihl. Where would I buy it in your Amazon link?
Hi Bree, where can I get a piston stop for my Stihl HL 100? The spark plug on mine is a Bosch super R10.
Another great video lady
Thanks again!
Hello where can you get those bushing from
Funny, I’ve worked on hundreds of these units and have never seen a clutch stuck open or closed. HS 82’s are a different story. Our lack of rain in AZ probably has something to do with it.
Could you tell me what tool i need to remove the screw that holds the clutch in place for my fs 45 weed eater ?
I work on stilh every day never had a clutch go bad other then the spring in the middle if it doesn't turn the start gets round
Good morning from Adelaide south Australia. Very informative video.
Awesome! My sister has lived in Adelaide for 8 years.
@@dudekanic I remember you told me on a live chat a few weeks ago. My wife is from Texas👍
So, how long do these clutches last? I bought mine in 1995 and it is in heavy yearround use on a 20-acre estate, only with the three-blade head. The clutch has never needed replacing.
Thanks chick, for entertains ole man.
hi from Finland...I have a clutch issue with my Stihl FS45 how will I get it looks,give me a simple tip
great video - clear and precise...now I'm a new subscriber...all the way from SW France , cheers
What about one that just makes a grinding noise and will hardly engage I pulled it apart put good used clutch doing same noise from clutch house the trimmer head gearbox itself is good
Mine stopped spinning when I was cutting brush, sounded just like when your chain falls off your chainsaw , the sound came from up near the engine so I took shaft apart checked clutch it looked fine, checked the drive both ends look good , replaced the gear head started working good for about a couple minutes did the same thing again . Took apart shaft again started it the shaft seemed to be spinning fine kinda at a loss ????