Hi Randy, The line is hitched 2 the boom for 2 reasons 1) It can never get pinched between the boom and the gooseneck causing it to fray and fail 2) It takes some load off the tang. Remember, the four rivits in the tang already take the load from the 15:1 (in my case 12:1) vang. It was designed originally for a 3:1 system in the 70s so those four rivets and the tang are under a lot of load now. The gooseneck has 6 rivets and mostly are under compression when sailing. Happy Sailing
Hi, thanks for the question. I choose to run the purchase blocks at the outhaul boom cleat because when the vang is on hard the boom likes to bend. an outhaul strung directly from the gooseneck to the fairlead at the end of the boom will stay strait and a) ease slightly and b)interfere with the foot of the sail. Also, by running the shock chord with it the outhaul will ease more easily in light winds without any fuss. I hope this helps. David Wright
Question was asked, "Why do I use a 3:1 cunningham?" Answer: Total purchase is 6:1 when you include the 2:1 of the cunningham primary that goes through the sail. I find this to be enough purchase that when I crank on it I can get the eye to its maximum position resting on the boom without much difficulty. With more purchase the loss to friction is greater and there ends up being a lot of line floating around in the cockpit when its windy, which can get caught in the mainsheet and ratchet.
Hi David, Nice video, very neat rigging set up. I just have a question, with the control lines - cunningham and outhaul being spectra/dyneema braid, what size are they? 5mm? and do the grip ok in the cleats? and how do they wear? I dont suppose you can tell me what lengths they are too? Cheers
Hi, I liked that you were able to splice the spectra line onto the blocks. Does it run any smoother through the blocks? What about the cleats? Is this significantly different to the standard high tech double braid line? Or is it better? Thank you. :)
In your older rigging video you used the old holt block for the top block what was the reason for that or did you have a preference to that block compared to the newer holt and harken blocks
Hello David, could you tell me the name/maker of the block (example. Harken T2 etc.) which you used for the cunningham that attached to the mast side? This is explained around 7:26 in the video.
TheLads It is lighter, absorbs no water, runs more smoothly through the leads in the harken deck plate when pulled on an angle (hiking position). As long as you use harken aluminum cleats it sticks very well. It wears out more quickly in the sun but all the lines of a laser cost less than 50 dollars so you can replace them whenever its needed.
David Wright I've got a series of questions for you. Do I really need a 6:1 out hall? It sounds a bit ott to me. What purchase is your vang? How thick is your traverler? Do you have any Hiking tips because I'm new to the Laser and my calves dig into the side, is that normal? I've tried loosening the strap loads but I'm too low in the water.
![Rigging Your Laser Sailboat in Less Than 5 Minutes [HD]](/img/1.gif)
Hi Randy,
The line is hitched 2 the boom for 2 reasons
1) It can never get pinched between the boom and the gooseneck causing it to fray and fail
2) It takes some load off the tang. Remember, the four rivits in the tang already take the load from the 15:1 (in my case 12:1) vang. It was designed originally for a 3:1 system in the 70s so those four rivets and the tang are under a lot of load now. The gooseneck has 6 rivets and mostly are under compression when sailing.
Happy Sailing
Hi, thanks for the question.
I choose to run the purchase blocks at the outhaul boom cleat because when the vang is on hard the boom likes to bend. an outhaul strung directly from the gooseneck to the fairlead at the end of the boom will stay strait and a) ease slightly and b)interfere with the foot of the sail.
Also, by running the shock chord with it the outhaul will ease more easily in light winds without any fuss. I hope this helps.
David Wright
Question was asked, "Why do I use a 3:1 cunningham?"
Answer: Total purchase is 6:1 when you include the 2:1 of the cunningham primary that goes through the sail. I find this to be enough purchase that when I crank on it I can get the eye to its maximum position resting on the boom without much difficulty. With more purchase the loss to friction is greater and there ends up being a lot of line floating around in the cockpit when its windy, which can get caught in the mainsheet and ratchet.
Hi David,
Nice video, very neat rigging set up. I just have a question, with the control lines - cunningham and outhaul being spectra/dyneema braid, what size are they? 5mm? and do the grip ok in the cleats? and how do they wear? I dont suppose you can tell me what lengths they are too? Cheers
Hi, I liked that you were able to splice the spectra line onto the blocks. Does it run any smoother through the blocks? What about the cleats? Is this significantly different to the standard high tech double braid line? Or is it better? Thank you. :)
What is the diameter of your downhaul and outhaul control line? thanks!
Did you drill your tiller yourself? If you did, is it holding up okay or did it damage the carbon?
In your older rigging video you used the old holt block for the top block what was the reason for that or did you have a preference to that block compared to the newer holt and harken blocks
Hello David, could you tell me the name/maker of the block (example. Harken T2 etc.) which you used for the cunningham that attached to the mast side? This is explained around 7:26 in the video.
why do u have the main purchase for the outhaul on the boom instead of using 2 blocks on the mast to accomplish it?
Note: (On an older sail you may find the eye can be pulled further down, but a new one will get plenty of twist with the eye resting on the boom.)
Why do you use coreless rope for your downhall and outhall? Surely it's harder to cleat and wears quicker.
TheLads It is lighter, absorbs no water, runs more smoothly through the leads in the harken deck plate when pulled on an angle (hiking position). As long as you use harken aluminum cleats it sticks very well. It wears out more quickly in the sun but all the lines of a laser cost less than 50 dollars so you can replace them whenever its needed.
David Wright Thanks for the quick reply. Just bought a laser and i'm pimping it up a bit so I needed a bit of advice for the best ropes and stuff.
David Wright I've got a series of questions for you.
Do I really need a 6:1 out hall? It sounds a bit ott to me.
What purchase is your vang?
How thick is your traverler?
Do you have any Hiking tips because I'm new to the Laser and my calves dig into the side, is that normal? I've tried loosening the strap loads but I'm too low in the water.
why do you use 29mm t2 blocks in your systems instead of 18mm t2?
Does the size make a difference?
Bigger blocks have less friction
do you like your block setup for cunning ham and outhaul? i need to re do mine
yours actual pulleys are better as pulleys Harken we receive with the laser pack?
Yes, I am happy with everything I you see on this video
Good Luck
What kind of tiller extention is that? where can I purchase it? Thanks.
Dave,
What’s the length of your kicker line?