Heat Treating Alloy and Tool Steel - Heat Treatment 102
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- G'day everyone,
This is the final part in my 3 part video series on heat treating steel. The first one covered the basics of carbon steel ( • Heat Treating Carbon S... ) and the second one covered the allotrope phase change at high temperatures ( • Steel shrinks when it ... ), and in this video I would like to cover tool and alloy steels. The first half will be dedicated to what makes them special, and the second half will focus on some aspects to consider when heat treating them. I will focus on 01 specifically because of how common it is. For other alloys you will need to look up the manufactures guide, because each alloy will require different heat treatment steps.
#heattreatment
This video will really test your metal, son, -------- I say TEST YOUR METAL, SON! - Foghorn Leghorn.
👈 see yourself out. You know what you did. 😂
This was a great basic overview, enough to entice beginners to learn more... along with knowing what to even research.
Excellent video!
Oh man thank you for the clarity on steel designations! I'm very grateful for that. It's been such a pleasure being around to watch your videos evolve in quality and you have really been making great stuff. Thank you!🍉
For me in the NL/Europe is always difficult to convert these alloy numbers to our local system. To my understanding some alloys are even not exactly available: there are small differences in composition. I wish they would agree on an international standard (and everybody used it).
I'm sure we'll get on that right after standardizing on a single measurement system globally.
In other words, unfortunately, I don't know that it'll happen.
@@elitearbor There is a (mostly) global standard for linear measurement but it's just those pesky Yanks that don't want to join in :-)
Yup, even in Europe there are already about half a dozen different systems, Germany, Britain, Sweden, Italy, France, etc. I'm still working on a massive table in a Word file where I've listed the AISI, DIN and EN alloys and tried to find the different alloy numbers in different countries for the same alloy, yet half of it I've been unable to find because it seems they only exist in one system but not the others. Fortunately there are only a limited number of alloys which are commonly used, the exotic ones not so much so you can just forget about them and look them up in the rare case you do need to know. St 37-2, C45 and 42 CrMo4 makes up for half of what is used.
Great introduction to this subject. As a retired engineer, I know folks with a PhD. in materials science. As you stated, it's a deep study.
This was my 'everyday a schoolday' moment for today,cheers man
Great set of videos dude. 10 points
Hi Adrian. Thank you for this info VERY helpful. I enjoy the way you present your knowledge so easy to understand please keep informing us.
This is quite the rabbit hole I'm very happy to have fallen down it.
Thanks for the awesome insight into what's possible!
A good DIY project is a small electric heat treat oven. Using an Ink Bird PID controller ($40 or cheap import option) and a resistance wire heater, a fabricated steel box, a couple fire bricks, some insulation, and you're good to go. The PID controller uses a k type thermocouple and can hold certain temperatures or run various programs. You can probably build it for around $200.
Alternatively, Vevor is selling an electric kiln for about the same price where you would be able to do the same thing.
Then if you really want to get crazy, I think Argon gas can be pumped in at a few psi to prevent scale on the parts.
Might make an entertaining project and would come in handy for 17-4 & 15-5 stainless. Both options machine well after being hardened, don't move much in heat treat, and end up with parts that are tough as hell. We've been making a ton of 17-4 & 15-5 stainless parts for Commercial & Military aviation.
Very good. Tempering is a who,e topic by itself. I’m amazed that all most people know about tempering is what they learned in junior high school shop making a screwdriver or chisel. That works well enough for blacksmithing, but not for making anything precision.
Anyone enlighten me about ck67/c67s is it okey to make chisel and plane blades for woodwork or pocket knife?
I didint found any source to give simple answers and idk about metallugry
I've often wondered if there is any merit in quenching in a container that has a dual layer of water and oil, the oil layer having less of a heat-shock and the water rapidly cooling the bulk material.
Wow, you managed to make a topic, that was always a horror for me back in my metallurgy classes, sound really interesting!
You should look into making a carbide straightening hammer to fix that warped knife.
Thanks a bunch for all the info, dude! 😊
In my case I live in Brazil, around 1/4 of a mile from the sea... Probably less than that. So, carbon steel becomes rust dust pretty fast. 😕
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
@6:00 I had never thought about the fact that a larger part would take longer to cool and therefore not quench as hard!
I'm afraid I lost you when you said "Now listen here" 🙂
Thank you for explaining it to my 5 year old brain...
yay new video
At the shop I work at we use liquid nitrogen for heat treating parts
A video on cold treatment with nitrogen would be interesting.
I learned a lot of this 45 years ago. Thanks for the refresher.
Nice video, thanks man!
Butane Torch, yes!
Metallurgy Saturdays!
A quick word about the temper durability of HSS. When grinding and the steel get hot if quenched in water in process many times it will also affect the steels hardness. So even if it's only just to hot to handle to red hot let it air cool, dont quench it if it can be avoided and it will better maintain it's properties. Back in the days when phones had dials I used to operate a big planer on occasion. When sharpening 1"/25mm HSS it was quite apparent if you cooled it to often durability wise.
For the algorithm.
Interesting, thank you. My education was clearly lacking!
8:06 In Chemistry they taught us that the hottest part of a flame is just beyond the tip of the blue cone. Inside the blue cone is relatively cold (I guess it is the unburt gas).
Nice job in covering this topic.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Great educative video
Great overview
Great video. A really good addition would be a video about case hardening - while scoffed by many, case hardened tools are a great compromise in many cases
The other day I needed a tool, so I sharpened a piece of what I think is tool steel, and quench harden in water. I didnt even bother tempering the tool. It worked fine, producing nice chips.
really nice
It makes sense to learn how to harden relatively cheap steel to lower bainite. The quality of the parts is cosmic.
*nickel
Fun
Pretty sure the annealing temperature of high speed steel is around 1300°C. It would take a lot more than 500° to ruin the temper.
That’s the anneal temp but you’ll start to lose hardness around 500-600. Similar in a sense that you anneal carbon steel at 730 but you start to lose hardness at 180ish.
@@artisanmakes would be interesting to test how much hardness is lost at temperatures below the point it anneals.
There are a few charts for these but they vary depending on the amount of carbon in the steel
@@freestyla101 you’d lose all your hardness. 1300C is practically the melting point and several hundred degrees above the austenitization temperature. Tool steels are hardened by martensite and carbides, above the austenitization temperature you have no martensite and by 1300C you have no carbides.
I know a bit about this stuff and I think you did a nice job.
Excellent series. Ray.
Great video mate!
Thanks! 👍💪✌
EARLY!