Tried to disassemble the thing but tumbler cover just will not turn. It rotates quite freely a few degrees but then nothing. Gave up and put a little more teflon grease on key and just continue to pray every time I need to start the car...
I had to remove the steering wheel with a torx 30 and 10 mm allen, because my key slid in and out in position 1, Then I used a pair of pliers to pull off the ignition cover after turning it 180 degrees, then had to pry the lock cylinder out with a screwdriver, finally I filed down the the tumbler pins with the key in, while using a small screw driver from the other side. Mercedes said $600 plus labor and reprogramming. This was a free fix! Thanks
Thanks for the video. I took your advice and replaced the key tumbler before it locked up completely. I put up with it for about 3 months, as I was travelling across the country. I replaced with Mercedes parts, which are very stiff at first but works now. I recommend if you do not have the shaft tool to remove the black ring, you should get LONG channel lock pliers. Mine were short and not as efficient. Took all of about 10 minutes.
Adub408 it can be stubborn, but keep working it. As the video shows, he has trouble with his after the ring is off also. You cannot force it, just keep moving it. You will have to disassemble your key fob to take out the key blank and change it for the new tumbler key. When you do this be very careful. You need to go to the Crossfire forum and read the very detailed instructions. With just the blank, you can get a hold of it with a pair of pliers, which may help to turn. If this does not work, you may be locked. However I would keep trying while moving your steering wheel hard to the left and then release. If it is locked, Google the next film on sticky key and a different guy talks about what you will need to do. There is also a video by a Mercedes mechanic that talks about tumbler removal. It is on older Mercedes, but they used the same tumbler system on them as on the crossfire it appears. The newer Mercedes they changed systems. Hope this helps.
Thank you Fupabox, I have W202 1996, and I had the same problem with the ignition yesterday and I had a lot of fun all day long..., your video saved my life, today I could start the car and managed to bring the car on my driveway, and tomorrow I will complete the mission LOL..... Thank you Fupabox (mcgiver)
Thanks! My friend is going to try this tomorrow. My Crossfire is having issues with sticking and I've been stuck a couple of times. The dealer was giving me a run-around, and denying that this was a known problem! When I tried to give them information, they got nasty. Not going back to them!
My 1997 E420 is my back on the road. Dealer activated the new key to the car and that was it. No charge except for new key. When fixing tumbler, be sure and clean it thoroughly with silicone spray or something similar. Spray penetrating oil after and make sure all tumbler pins are spring loaded. This is critical. Clean inside of ignition switch and pack light grease inside. Rei-install and everything should be ok.
You are a bank account saver, fupabox! Extra Notes: My first wafer got jammed by an idiot muffler welder who jammed the key in thinking it was push-and-turn. This key design promotes this error with the angle on the end of the key slot. I ground that first wafer down on the back side. It is the reverse direction of the wafer that gets jammed in and sticks. I repaired it just in time, before it got worse. Also, the previous owner had used graphited lock-ease which had gummed up the wafers and/or the pins. Brake cleaner degreases this and silicone spray washes it further. Do not soak it for too long in the brake cleaner since the plastic might absorb the hydrocarbon and swell up. I limited it to 2 minutes before rinsing with the silicone spray. I did this 3 times and got a bunch of dirt and graphite out. I used a rough (not fine) drum sanding drum on a drill to grind the wafers down. A dremel might work. I thought it too high speed. The low speed of the drill allows gentle shaving of the brass. Take your time. Then debur all brass edges with a small file. Everything must move smoothly. That first wafer will not move smoothly, which is why I ground it totally down. I only have one key - no spare one as fubabox has. I could not turn the tumbler after it easily slipped in and it had easliy turned counter-clockwise to position 0. It was now stuck in position 0. However, after watching the video several times I noticed how fupabox put some decent toque on his key end. I put my channel locks on key plastic body and turned it harder than I would have dared by holding the plastic body by itself. It popped from position 0 to 1 with only gentle torque. It works fine now. I drink a tall beer in your name, fupabox!
Fupabox. I finally put it back together. I drilles a hole in the steeering lock, pushed the metal piece in that controlled the steering lock,and installed a screw so the lock does not engage. I will replace sometime later. Then I purchased a new swith because the plastic on the back of the ols switch was broken. I will fix it later and then sell it. Nothing else wrong with switch. I installed the switch, pushe it into the tabs on the steering lock, put in the tumbler assembly, lock ring, and key sensor, and then had it towed to Mercedes and ordered a key: $195 with tax. Should be in by Friday and I should be able to the car home. Thanks for your help. By the way, key turns super smooth in the ignition, better than a new one. My thought: Avoid buying a new key and tumbler until after you have spent time cleaning all the dirt out of the old tumbler and inside the switch. Silicone spray works great, followed by some light grease inside the switch. Believe it or not, I used crisco.
I just bought a white 98 SLK230 with custom 2 tone red and black interior [the guy just bought a 2007 SL500] SLK had same issues as in this video sticking key, wouldnt turn, I used channel locks to force the ring off, then sanded claw marks off the ring and repainted the ring - then took a fine file and filed down the tumbler plates until they were as flat as possible with the tumbler - to compensate for a worn key - works fine now - but will buy a new tumbler in the near future, also heater blower motor not working either, a little bit of rust bubbles on the nose of the hood, torn red leather seats he originally wanted $4.8k last summer when it was looking sharp [exterior] i bought it in february, he wanted $3.2k by then, i offered him $2.5k a week later we settled on $2.7k , it had new Dunlop tires that are 1 yr old .. now I have this to SLK to scoot around in until my 1992 SL500 is in tip top shape .. then I will sell both - I'm done with having to constantly be working on MBs ..going with something simpler more fun and easier to work on like a Miata or a Solstice ..
My key all of a sudden won't turn (97 c230). If I understand this correctly, it won't turn most likely because my key is worn over the years and therefore won't release all the wafers enough to allow the tumbler to turn. My question then is, can I just cut a new key (assuming the new cut key would be just like new)? My FOB is also broken from drops over the years so I could really go for a new case and flip out key. I'm a bit hesitant to file down the wafers to fit the key if I can just get a new key. Please clarify for me so I can be clear with the options at hand and thanks for sharing the video.
2 Thumbs up!! Thanks for making this seamless! It took me 20 minutes to jiggle the key to position 1 but after that it was like a glove...... Very surprisingly easy for being a German POS! Thank you for your beautiful tutorial!!!
My Mercedes 300 E 24 valve had the ignition key stuck in the lock. Neither of the local service providers were able to remove the key so the whole ignition has been removed and I was directed to a parts supplier to obtain a new ignition barrel and key. While the spares supplier was getting the barrel and key from his stock room I managed to remove the key from the barrel however the key would still not turn in the barrel but I was able to put it back and take it out. I then took the ignition assembly together with the new barrel and key back to the MB agents. They were still unable to remove the plastic collar which holds the barrel in place. There do not appear to be any screws or clips which would release this plastic collar. Can any one give me advice on this problem.
thank you. My key gets stuk IN the ignition. I hate having to spend 20 minutes soemtimes to get it out. And leaving my car with a key in it is just not an option. Thanks for showing me I can do it myself also.
I have a C230 1997. I cannot get my ignition in the one position, my steering wheel is locked. And I'm just having a terrible time with it. Is this some kind of factory defect?
hey shot in the dark... you wouldn't happen to have a part # for this special MBZ tool (i'm just assuming it's a benz tool). it's my first timing having this ignition style and it seems like a necessary tool. thanks!
The steering wheel doesn't appear to be locked whereas I've pulled on it hard left and right. I have lifted the front end as well. As of right now, I've ordered a Master Key overnighted to me from the Dealership. Trying to avoid having it towed.
Hey Fupabox. I put switch back in, connected the collar..it snapped in. Car acts like it wants to start but won't. Any idea what is wrong? I did remove the whole transponder -- three wires connect to it so I could not have gotten those mixed up. I could start it before I tore it apart.
Allen Lundy try to re sync the key to the car...point the remote at the inside rearview mirror and push the unlock on the remote, then immediately put the key in ignition and try to start.. you may need to do it a few times.. if it doesn't work ,try unlocking the drivers door with the key remote, then try the ignition again
I did try everything but nothing worked, as a matter of fact, the w202 steering wheel bolt is now completely striped , the tumbler cover destroyed with a Dremel in an attempt to remove tumbler by cutting off the metal cover, the ignition Assembly does not come out no matter how hard I hit it , the pin does no break, don't what else to do, this stupid project has taken almost three months but still I'm not giving up, any ideas or suggestions in how to take either the stripped bolt or the ignition Assembly without taking the steering wheel off? thanks to everyone that me help on this
Hello Fupabox, I've got an electronic key and it just stopped last week Saturday after a regular service of oil change. Was listening to the CD while oil was being Changed. When done, the key just would not start. I was a while there about 1hr30min or more. What do I do? They advice I change the whole key hole, electronic key and the brain box? Isn't that a bit drastic? I live in Nigeria and drive a C180 Model 2000. Please help and FAST! Thanks.
the battery level prob. dropped a bit while you were listening to the radio and the key unsynced itself from the car....make sure the battery in the car is fully charged 1.. using the metal blade key lock and unlock the drivers side door. 2.. within 10 seconds put the electronic key in the ignition and try to start. if that doesn't work 1..lock then unlock the drivers side door with the metal key 2.. press the lock button on the electronic key..if the door locks,use the electronic key and unlock it again..then try the ignition you do not need a new ignition or anything..it just needs to recognize the key aagin
Update on my 1997 E420. Dealer has received the Master key but says that it will not unlock or lock the car...even pointing at rear view mirror. Car starts and shuts back off almost immediately. They will get back to me Monday. So, since I had disconnected the transponder box behind the instrument panel, seems that all connections got lost. According to my maintenance manual, Activation needs to be done with the Remote Central Locking control module. System can only be activated or deactivated with Infrared (IR) transmitter or master key. I guess they will figure it out without bankrupting me.
I understand. Its just these are 17 yr old vehicles not showroom pieces so any money I can save on ignition switch means more for engine replacement parts. I've already disabled my door locks so a free turning ignition switch would probably be bad. Mine isn't too hard to turn but ill try a new key first before doing this. Even if my switch jams I can probably cut open my dash and Jerry rig a generic switch in less than an hour. It won't be pretty but my cars already no beauty queen. Thanks for the advice though.
I have a Mercedes 1999 E320, my key won't turn in the ignition at all. can't get it to move, it comes out but when I stick it in nothing happens and I can't move it. when the door is open it says take key but still my key won't move. any idea how to fix this? I'm guessing it's something with the security
Sorry I thought this posted. First when you file down wafers you create extra tolerance/clearance issues. Wherever you have too much the ignition will wear a grove into the housing which will then cause premature failure. A locksmith does not have to have a vin to recut that key, if he knows what he is doing. I can look at a key and tell you the cuts. Then cutting an original key will correct that issue. Now the second reason for not filing down wafers. It creates burrs. Burrs get stuck. If that ignition gets stuck and you can't turn it to the on position you will have to cut the hard plate cover in a way to get access to the release points. Which will be more expensive. To repair it correctly you need to remove the either bent or broken wafer and/or cut a new key. Your more then welcome to do things as you like but if the ignition sticks off then your pretty fucked for getting it out. I work on Mercedes ignitions for the dealer. I know what I'm talking about. Do not file wafers. They are not called pins. Pins are in house locks and some older model cars. Not this one. They were in ford ignitions up through 96, Chrysler back in the early 80s, and a few others. Call a locksmith because if you get that thing stuck you can count on paying 500-800 to get it out and a new one in.
Ok, so when it rains, it pours.........I was just checking with you on hood liner :----))) Now ignition is locked, hope I can start it.......If it starts, take it to shop, just have him replace the tumbler with a new one? Can I use the same key? mine is a 1995 w202
Great video, got me a little intimated from doing it. instead of saying turning it to 90 degree position would turning to the 9 clock position be better.a little hard to see everything but i think i got it. will those pins for sure fall out it i dont cover them ?
***** try tapping gently on it while you turn it..vibration may help it line up and turn, also try some penetrating oil...if you can't get it to turn you will need to go to the dealer or a locksmith to have it removed
I just bought a white 98 SLK230 with custom 2 tone red and black interior [the guy just bought a 2007 SL500] same issues as in this video sticking key, wouldnt turn, I used channel locks to force the ring off, then sanded claw marks off the ring and repainted the ring - then took a fine file and filed down the tumbler plates until they were as flat as possible with the tumbler - to compensate for a worn key - works fine now - but will buy a new tumbler in the near future, also heater blower motor not working either, a little bit of rust bubbles on the nose of the hood, torn leather seats he originally wanted $4.8k last summer when it was looking sharp [exterior] i bought it in february , he wanted $3.2k by then, i offered him $2.5k a week later we settled on $2.7k , it had new Dunlop tires that are 1 yr old .. now I have this to SLK to scoot around in until my 1992 SL500 is in tip top shape .. then I will sell both - I'm done with having to constantly be working on MBs going with something simpler and easier to work on like a Miata or a Solstice ..
Mine has a weird problem. When I turn the key to pos 1, it would activate the electrical section and at pos 2 the dashboard lights up for 1 sec and then shutsdown completely (pos 3 wont do anything). And sometimes it would fire up the engine at pos 1. Any advise? (its a C220 CDI 2004)
Hey fupabox. When you re-install, the sensor collar, does it have to be in a certain position? I notice the tumbler key slot sits at an angle and the slot in the sensor collar is to the right.
*****. Thanks. I carefully watched your video and now see that the flat spot is on the right, turns left to lock and the collar. I see the wire for the sensor was on the left side when you pulled your collar off and i noticed how the slot in the chrome ring was positioned. So I should be ok. Now debating whether I am going to fix the steering lock where black piece never locks the steering. If not a law issue, I may just drill all the way through and put a bolt in it so it does jump back plus drill the center of it out so the ignition switch (piece on back of ignition switch) does engage the steering lock. Key to me getting the tumbler to work right was to remove all the dirt out of the tumbler using silicone spray and doing same inside where the tumbler goes. Then I lubed everything and made sure all the tumblers pieces where moving in and out freely. Now, when I put it back together tomorrow, if it starts, I will be happy. I definitely had the switch turned opposite of where it should have been.
i have a 2000 e320 and am not sure if the eis is damaged or the key is not working. i usually can not get my key past position 1 but on the rare occasion i can. any advice?
I'm not very well versed with the EIS since I have never experienced an issue with one... I did have this link in my files in case it ever came up mhhauto.com/Thread-The-ultimate-Mercedes-EIS-repair-guide
Do you know if any online store would have the individual climate control buttons. I know it's a very specific part but my blue temp dec. button is cracked from use.
lube the key wiggle it,move the steering wheel side to side to see if it is locking the ignition, tap gently with a screwdriver on the key as you try to turn it..if you have a spare key ,try that....keep trying until you are sure that it won't move.. because it will be a long expensive job if you can't turn the key, A locksmith may be able to drill the tumbler out, but I am not 100% sure
i have a mercedes E-240, the problem is I cannot remove the key, but i can start and turn off the engine. any idea what is the solution for my problem. thanks!
The key will not be released with your foot on the brake and in park..your should feel the click when you release the brake pedal. could be a faulty brake switch
@@fupabox also a faulty park position sensor on the stickshift will not allow the key to release -- saw that in another YT video - it wasnt the key or the tumbler .. it was a lose/worn microswitch for the park position..
I watched this video and thought it might help with my situation. This is a very informative video but I have a different problem. I am able to turn the key from lock to start without any problems. But when I turn the car off the ignition will not release my key. It's a 1996 e320 by the way. Most of the time I have to leave the driver door unlocked with the key in the ignition because i cannot pull the key out. Once in a while it will release the key but the LCD screen under the speedo says Take Key even though the key isn't in the ignition. But this only happens once in a whole most of the time the key will not come out. Which means someone can come along and easily steal my car without a struggle. Anyone have any help for this situation?
check the linkage to the shifter...the key can not be removed if the car isn't in park..if the shift linkage isn't moving all the way then the car may not be recognizing that it is parked..and will hold the key
I have no problem turning the key, but when i turn it over to start the engine it doesn't respond immediately. It takes like half a second. Yesterday it didn't respond at all and i had to turn the key back and forth for it to finally crank. What part of the lock is failing?
It's very hard to say .. could be the key transponder chip, could be the receiver ring around the ignition could be the electrical contacts inside the ignition.
Thanks for the reply! It's a mechanical key, my car is a '93. I think it's the part with the contacts on, i heard they can disintegrate over time. It can be bought seperately quite cheap. Partnumber 2025450104.
someone probably had a bunch of heavy keys on a keyring ,hanging from the ignition and wore out the plastic lip that keeps the key in... remove the smart key from your key chain and it should be able to stay in on its own
Thank you for your video. I've a 1996 C220 but my key still won't turn despite multiple attempts. What does the removal tool (MB Part # 202 589 00 14 00) do? Will it enable me to remove the tumbler if my key won't turn?
I have a 97 E320. After my battery died,(from leaving interior light on) I jump started it and it would not go over 5 MPH (floored, which has happened b4, but my hubby cleared the codes in the past and corrected that issue) So I parked it, waiting 4 hubby to get home, and when he got home, the ignition would not turn AT ALL!! It's been a month and a half and I still don't have a functional car, and I'm losing my mind... Should I try this?? I am in the car now, and got the channel locks and turned it to the left, as in your video.. Weird thing is, that nothing led up to this.. It never stuck in the past.. Just BAMM!! Thanks 4 the video, and any comments THA may help would be appreciated .. Peace
check the battery voltage first...if the battery isn't at nearly a full charge the ignition may not recognize the anti theft chip in your key,and won't release the lock in the tumbler..
same exact thing is going on with my car right now, 1999 E320. the key won't turn in the ignition at all! nothing led up to this just parked it and hopped out, and went inside for 10 mins came back out and the key won't turn in the igntion. it's the smart key i think. it's not a metal key, there's a metal key inside it. I just put the key into the ignition and I'm letting it set to see if it will re-sync like you told someone. I'm loosing my mind trying to fix this. any ideas to help me? did you get your car fixed?
Brandon try turning the steering wheel to the left and right while trying to turn the key..if the wheel seems stuck you will need to turn it a bit forcefully..the wheel can sometimes jam on the locking pin which won't allow the key to turn
+fupabox I can turn the wheel it's just hard like no power steering, the key won't move at all just goes in and doesn't make the noise it normally makes when you stick it in. I just put the key in and I'm letting it sit to see if it will re-sync. but the steering wheel will move
no problems .. it worked for another 80k km and then the car was sold to Africa as a taxi. It's not the fix I would use on a collector car , but a daily driven old w203 it isn't worth the $ to get a new keyed ignition
Thanks! My friend just bought a 1997 C280 and has this same problem. He watched your video and opted to buy a new tumbler and key off Ebay for like $12 but I m not sure if it will work because it's not an electronic key. If it doesn't work, the sanding/filing method will be used.
the transponder ring's wire connects to a connector at the base of the ignition switch - the bottom half of the plastic dash under the steering wheel has to be removed to access it ..
Hi, I have just subscribed to your channel, can you help as I have a c36 with one key and it won't turn to position 1, have tried alot past two days. Any recommendations please. Thanks
Damn it! Tuis just happened to me just now! Good thing im parked at home :s bad news is i want to get to work QQ anyways going to do what i saw when i get back thanks man.
+Jamaica Dancehall TV If it is the square end non traditional key, the problem is usually that the key isn't being recognized by the ignition tumbler.. lots of things can cause it, but a bad battery is first to check..press button and see if the red led inside glows.. then re syncing the key with the car by putting the key in the ignition and leaving it there for a few hours.. don't try to turn it, just leave the key in and let the key and ignition resync to each other
***** Thank you for replying, the awkward thing is that the eis recognizes the key because it unlocks the steering and makes the sound, but the key will not rotate in the ignition, had to tow the car back home last night. Any ideas?
+Jamaica Dancehall TV the wheel unlocks and you can hear the click, then the key won't turn.. odd... try the resync just in case..I'll see if I can find an answer
Hi fupabox, me again (in Brazil) - E320 stuck shift btwn R and D. Once I move to P position, shift will not move to R, unless I manually turn a little wheel on the side of the assembly. I just found out I cannot remove the key from ignition even on a P position...OMG ! are the problems related one to another? anyway I can send you a pic from the shifter? Pls help..Best
+Edesio Mandelli Yes they are related.. the key can only be removed when the shifter is in park. and your foot is off the brake..something in the brake switch is not functioning
Well this is information i need badly you see i am another victim. I am at the post office i go out and my doors are locked so i reach in drivers side and unlock the door beep beep the alarm goes off so i go to the passengers side and unlock the door and the alarm turned off ,so i get in try to start it and it will not turn. So i attempted everything i removed the black thing around the ignition and it seems like the cylinder would easily come out. But if the key is not to the first click i guess I am pretty much out of the game .....? so i attempted to drill the tumbler out, nothing i could not even scratch it all the shaking from the drill did nothing i called the dealer and he tells me 800$ plus to replace the cylinder.I think i can get dynamite cheaper. is there any chance for me to ever drive this E420 again ? if i remove it and replace it ? my key bob thing is wasted i bought the car not knowing anything about the key bob. please anything at all will help . thank you It is a 1997 E420
Fupabox. I dropped that key in the water long ago; only have the regular key. So I thank I am going to tow it to the dealer next week and order keys: electronic and backup. It will hit me $300 but it no other cost so far. My insurance should pick up the cost unless you have another idea for programming the regular key.
Allen Lundy try locking and unlocking the door with the reg. key..then ignition within 10 seconds.. if it doesn't work the dealer option may be the only option unfortunately
This can last indefinitely once it's filed down . I always remove my car key from the rest of the keys now to keep weight from wearing down the tumbler . More convenient leaving them in the glovebox and only having 1 key in my pocket .
Really appreciate the videos! I think I have a related issue on my 2000 SL; often times when I remove the key after shutting off the engine, and then I open the door, I get beeping as if the ignition switch thinks the key is still in the ignition. It's happening more and more now and it leaves the exterior marker lights on = drained battery. I've tried spraying contact cleaner and silicone spray in the keyhole, but it doesn't really seem to have much effect. Any suggestions?
+pezzonovante888 it sounds more like a lighting issue than an ignition...car beeping as if lights were left on. Try switching the light switch back and forth ever so slightly from the off position next time it happens, and if that stops it then you know it's likely the headlight module. it may just be a bit sticky between the lights on and parking light position...over the years carbon tracking can build up in the grease that lubricates the switch contacts..eventually there is enough residual carbon to create a circuit through the grease even though the switch is off.. pulling the switch apart and cleaning off the old grease, and putting new dielectric grease in could solve the problem
Interesting. The thought had crossed my mind about the possibility of it being lighting. Hmmm, I'll check it out. I'll message you how it works out. Thanks a lot man.
@fupabox i have a ml320 1998 i can start the car and all but it takes a few twist and turning the key in the ignition before it starts, what could be the problem?
+fupabox sorry I mean you have to wiggle the key around first, the car works fine and all but when I insert the key in the ignition you have to wiggle it a few times and it's starting to Irritate me because on my other Benz I'm so used to just inserting the key and smoothly turning the key without having to really use some force.
only parked my car for 10 mins and came back out and now my key won't turn in the igintion. it's a e320 1999. I'd love someone forever if they told me how I could fix this.
This was a suggested video from you tube. I really can’t believe my eyes! I just fixed one of these at work today in 1 hour. Some rube didn’t know what he was doing (as demonstrated). Please go to someone who knows what they are doing and disregard this video. Sorry sir no offence.
i would have to try it myself once i get the removal tool coz i couldnt take it apart last time :< and its getting REALLY stuck on me the last few months :< god damn key guy or whatever they are called quoted me 100$ to "fix" it and this is going to be the second time now .... heck the whole tumbler assembly is 10$ on ebay with 2 keys >>
Annnnnnd my key broke.... Good thing its only the joint thingy the hooks the key to the keyknob plastick thinngy... Oh well time to spind money i dont have to fix it ^^weeee fun...
im going to use it !! the car is under my house and i dont want to pay for a truck to get it fixed !! so the hell with it !! i think its time for me to buy a cheap keyfob/remote and install it anyways .... damn merc for their high price`s !!
it did not work QQ i had to take it to a key guy ((i dont know what they are called :P )) paid 35$ to the tow truck and when i got there he took the damn thing apart took him like 20min to get it loose/out of the car and like an-hour + to fix it ((he told me to sit down :< but i heard drilling/grinding/pounding and stuff for ever :P)) and since my key was broke he said its 35$ only to clone the metal part of the key ((mine was broken even more + the remote chip inside was dead too)) so i asked for a new remote key/device he said about 70$ so i bought that since it comes with a key :> so i had to pay 230$ ish for the every thing QQ anyways at the end he told me all the brass pins in side were bent/snapped he had to change them all !! after this fix all i have is bad differential , interior, poor power im guessing here its the SC , every thing rubber in car :P and the inner door handle is getting broken :P i pain so much on this car yet im not willing to sell it !! at this point its a loss if i sell it xD like 65% loss :P damn it ^^
DO NOT EVER FILE DOWN WAFERS IN A LOCK. I am a locksmith. You will create long term issues. Also those are not pins in that ignition. Those are wafers. This advice will destroy you ignition in the long term. Contact a licensed locksmith. They can cut you a new key. If it's a programmed key you may have to go to the dealer because no one has cracked Mercedes programming yet.
A new key isn't the issue..the issue is worn pins/wafers..the new key will only be cut to the VIN# and will not work at all,and you will have spent a few hundred dollars on nothing...I would honestly like to know how this would harm the ignition in the long run ? Appreciate the input
I love people that cry gloom and doom and then don't have any facts to back up their "expertise". I think the only issue you'll experience is loss of contributions to your local locksmith. May possibly eventually make the ignition just turn with a screwdriver?
I have a Mercedes 1999 E320, my key won't turn in the ignition at all. can't get it to move, it comes out but when I stick it in nothing happens and I can't move it. when the door is open it says take key but still my key won't move. any idea how to fix this? I'm guessing it's something with the security
Hey sorry for the late response but I never ended up fixing it at all... I had to sell it as is because I couldn't get the key to turn. One second I was driving it around my neighborhood, pulled up in my driveway to sign some papers and the title over and when the buyer turned it off and we went to stick the key back in after about 15 mins it wouldn't turn at all... won't even budge... There's a bunch of different tricks you could try to do if you look around on RUclips but I couldn't get it to work..... and the gentlemen I sold it to had to get it towed even tho it ran and he told me the key still won't move and the mechanics he brought it to couldn't figure it out why either
first lube it and see if that helps..the key or the tumbler is likely wearing down..you can prolong the life of the key and tumbler by never using a keychain..keep the ignition key separate from all your other keys and just clip it back on when getting out of the car
Tried to disassemble the thing but tumbler cover just will not turn. It rotates quite freely a few degrees but then nothing. Gave up and put a little more teflon grease on key and just continue to pray every time I need to start the car...
I had to remove the steering wheel with a torx 30 and 10 mm allen, because my key slid in and out in position 1, Then I used a pair of pliers to pull off the ignition cover after turning it 180 degrees, then had to pry the lock cylinder out with a screwdriver, finally I filed down the the tumbler pins with the key in, while using a small screw driver from the other side. Mercedes said $600 plus labor and reprogramming. This was a free fix! Thanks
Thanks for the video. I took your advice and replaced the key tumbler before it locked up completely. I put up with it for about 3 months, as I was travelling across the country. I replaced with Mercedes parts, which are very stiff at first but works now. I recommend if you do not have the shaft tool to remove the black ring, you should get LONG channel lock pliers. Mine were short and not as efficient. Took all of about 10 minutes.
Adub408 it can be stubborn, but keep working it. As the video shows, he has trouble with his after the ring is off also. You cannot force it, just keep moving it.
You will have to disassemble your key fob to take out the key blank and change it for the new tumbler key. When you do this be very careful. You need to go to the Crossfire forum and read the very detailed instructions.
With just the blank, you can get a hold of it with a pair of pliers, which may help to turn. If this does not work, you may be locked. However I would keep trying while moving your steering wheel hard to the left and then release. If it is locked, Google the next film on sticky key and a different guy talks about what you will need to do. There is also a video by a Mercedes mechanic that talks about tumbler removal. It is on older Mercedes, but they used the same tumbler system on them as on the crossfire it appears. The newer Mercedes they changed systems. Hope this helps.
Thank you Fupabox, I have W202 1996, and I had the same problem with the ignition yesterday and I had a lot of fun all day long..., your video saved my life, today I could start the car and managed to bring the car on my driveway, and tomorrow I will complete the mission LOL..... Thank you Fupabox (mcgiver)
Thanks! My friend is going to try this tomorrow. My Crossfire is having issues with sticking and I've been stuck a couple of times.
The dealer was giving me a run-around, and denying that this was a known problem! When I tried to give them information, they got nasty. Not going back to them!
My 1997 E420 is my back on the road. Dealer activated the new key to the car and that was it. No charge except for new key. When fixing tumbler, be sure and clean it thoroughly with silicone spray or something similar. Spray penetrating oil after and make sure all tumbler pins are spring loaded. This is critical. Clean inside of ignition switch and pack light grease inside. Rei-install and everything should be ok.
Allen Lundy good to hear..glad you're up and running again
You are a bank account saver, fupabox!
Extra Notes:
My first wafer got jammed by an idiot muffler welder who jammed the key in thinking it was push-and-turn. This key design promotes this error with the angle on the end of the key slot. I ground that first wafer down on the back side. It is the reverse direction of the wafer that gets jammed in and sticks. I repaired it just in time, before it got worse. Also, the previous owner had used graphited lock-ease which had gummed up the wafers and/or the pins. Brake cleaner degreases this and silicone spray washes it further. Do not soak it for too long in the brake cleaner since the plastic might absorb the hydrocarbon and swell up. I limited it to 2 minutes before rinsing with the silicone spray. I did this 3 times and got a bunch of dirt and graphite out.
I used a rough (not fine) drum sanding drum on a drill to grind the wafers down. A dremel might work. I thought it too high speed. The low speed of the drill allows gentle shaving of the brass. Take your time. Then debur all brass edges with a small file. Everything must move smoothly. That first wafer will not move smoothly, which is why I ground it totally down.
I only have one key - no spare one as fubabox has. I could not turn the tumbler after it easily slipped in and it had easliy turned counter-clockwise to position 0. It was now stuck in position 0. However, after watching the video several times I noticed how fupabox put some decent toque on his key end. I put my channel locks on key plastic body and turned it harder than I would have dared by holding the plastic body by itself. It popped from position 0 to 1 with only gentle torque. It works fine now.
I drink a tall beer in your name, fupabox!
+Karl Hx
Incidentally, I have a 1997 E320.
+Karl Hx Excellent.. glad it worked for you.. good tip on the brake cleaner swelling the plastic.. thanks
I learned that it is also important to not have so many keys hanging on the ignition, the weight brings angle up not making the car start
+Gregory Decker . I was going to say the same thing . A car key should be alone on its keyring
Elvin Lategan Sure but being able to go into your home is also important too. So just two keys then.
I keep the house keys with the other bunch of keys . 2 bunches
Fupabox. I finally put it back together. I drilles a hole in the steeering lock, pushed the metal piece in that controlled the steering lock,and installed a screw so the lock does not engage. I will replace sometime later. Then I purchased a new swith because the plastic on the back of the ols switch was broken. I will fix it later and then sell it. Nothing else wrong with switch. I installed the switch, pushe it into the tabs on the steering lock, put in the tumbler assembly, lock ring, and key sensor, and then had it towed to Mercedes and ordered a key: $195 with tax. Should be in by Friday and I should be able to the car home. Thanks for your help. By the way, key turns super smooth in the ignition, better than a new one. My thought: Avoid buying a new key and tumbler until after you have spent time cleaning all the dirt out of the old tumbler and inside the switch. Silicone spray works great, followed by some light grease inside the switch. Believe it or not, I used crisco.
Allen Lundy Haha Crisco... it would work for sure ...fingers crossed it all works with the new key
This is very helpful. I have a w463 and it’s getting sticky. This will help me prevent those expensive repairs! Thank you.
I just bought a white 98 SLK230 with custom 2 tone red and black interior [the guy just bought a 2007 SL500] SLK had same issues as in this video sticking key, wouldnt turn, I used channel locks to force the ring off, then sanded claw marks off the ring and repainted the ring - then took a fine file and filed down the tumbler plates until they were as flat as possible with the tumbler - to compensate for a worn key - works fine now - but will buy a new tumbler in the near future, also heater blower motor not working either, a little bit of rust bubbles on the nose of the hood, torn red leather seats he originally wanted $4.8k last summer when it was looking sharp [exterior] i bought it in february, he wanted $3.2k by then, i offered him $2.5k a week later we settled on $2.7k , it had new Dunlop tires that are 1 yr old .. now I have this to SLK to scoot around in until my 1992 SL500 is in tip top shape .. then I will sell both - I'm done with having to constantly be working on MBs ..going with something simpler more fun and easier to work on like a Miata or a Solstice ..
Miata is dead reliable
NO TOOLS FOR THIS BOY!
My key all of a sudden won't turn (97 c230). If I understand this correctly, it won't turn most likely because my key is worn over the years and therefore won't release all the wafers enough to allow the tumbler to turn. My question then is, can I just cut a new key (assuming the new cut key would be just like new)? My FOB is also broken from drops over the years so I could really go for a new case and flip out key. I'm a bit hesitant to file down the wafers to fit the key if I can just get a new key. Please clarify for me so I can be clear with the options at hand and thanks for sharing the video.
IF the new key was cut based on your VIN insted of a copy of your worn key it could work,but pins also wear rover time.
Very helpful thank you, took me altogether about 45 min and it was not hard, no I will not get stranded because of the lock
@the stiver if your ignition won't turn your steering wheel won't unlock which means it won't matter if it starts.
2 Thumbs up!! Thanks for making this seamless! It took me 20 minutes to jiggle the key to position 1 but after that it was like a glove...... Very surprisingly easy for being a German POS! Thank you for your beautiful tutorial!!!
6
My Mercedes 300 E 24 valve had the ignition key stuck in the lock. Neither of the local service providers were able to remove the key so the whole ignition has been removed and I was directed to a parts supplier to obtain a new ignition barrel and key. While the spares supplier was getting the barrel and key from his stock room I managed to remove the key from the barrel however the key would still not turn in the barrel but I was able to put it back and take it out. I then took the ignition assembly together with the new barrel and key back to the MB agents. They were still unable to remove the plastic collar which holds the barrel in place. There do not appear to be any screws or clips which would release this plastic collar. Can any one give me advice on this problem.
thank you. My key gets stuk IN the ignition. I hate having to spend 20 minutes soemtimes to get it out. And leaving my car with a key in it is just not an option. Thanks for showing me I can do it myself also.
I have a C230 1997. I cannot get my ignition in the one position, my steering wheel is locked. And I'm just having a terrible time with it. Is this some kind of factory defect?
We have 3 old mercs at home and all have the same problem. Cheap Chinese cars have better ignition switches.
thank you, big help here. fixed it myself thanks to you.
hey shot in the dark... you wouldn't happen to have a part # for this special MBZ tool (i'm just assuming it's a benz tool). it's my first timing having this ignition style and it seems like a necessary tool. thanks!
ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/eurotec/2012-01-05_212221_service_and_repai2.pdf
part # 202 589 00 14 00
The steering wheel doesn't appear to be locked whereas I've pulled on it hard left and right. I have lifted the front end as well. As of right now, I've ordered a Master Key overnighted to me from the Dealership. Trying to avoid having it towed.
fingers crossed
Hey Fupabox. I put switch back in, connected the collar..it snapped in. Car acts like it wants to start but won't. Any idea what is wrong? I did remove the whole transponder -- three wires connect to it so I could not have gotten those mixed up. I could start it before I tore it apart.
Allen Lundy try to re sync the key to the car...point the remote at the inside rearview mirror and push the unlock on the remote, then immediately put the key in ignition and try to start.. you may need to do it a few times.. if it doesn't work ,try unlocking the drivers door with the key remote, then try the ignition again
I did try everything but nothing worked, as a matter of fact, the w202 steering wheel bolt is now completely striped , the tumbler cover destroyed with a Dremel in an attempt to remove tumbler by cutting off the metal cover, the ignition Assembly does not come out no matter how hard I hit it , the pin does no break, don't what else to do, this stupid project has taken almost three months but still I'm not giving up, any ideas or suggestions in how to take either the stripped bolt or the ignition Assembly without taking the steering wheel off?
thanks to everyone that me help on this
Hello Fupabox,
I've got an electronic key and it just stopped last week Saturday after a regular service of oil change. Was listening to the CD while oil was being Changed. When done, the key just would not start. I was a while there about 1hr30min or more.
What do I do? They advice I change the whole key hole, electronic key and the brain box?
Isn't that a bit drastic? I live in Nigeria and drive a C180 Model 2000.
Please help and FAST!
Thanks.
the battery level prob. dropped a bit while you were listening to the radio and the key unsynced itself from the car....make sure the battery in the car is fully charged
1.. using the metal blade key lock and unlock the drivers side door.
2.. within 10 seconds put the electronic key in the ignition and try to start.
if that doesn't work
1..lock then unlock the drivers side door with the metal key
2.. press the lock button on the electronic key..if the door locks,use the electronic key and unlock it again..then try the ignition
you do not need a new ignition or anything..it just needs to recognize the key aagin
Thanks... So much. I'll give it a try
Update on my 1997 E420. Dealer has received the Master key but says that it will not unlock or lock the car...even pointing at rear view mirror. Car starts and shuts back off almost immediately. They will get back to me Monday. So, since I had disconnected the transponder box behind the instrument panel, seems that all connections got lost. According to my maintenance manual, Activation needs to be done with the Remote Central Locking control module. System can only be activated or deactivated with Infrared (IR) transmitter or master key. I guess they will figure it out without bankrupting me.
TheElder Al ouch.. so unhooking the transponder caused it to need to be re-paired with the keyless remote..no pairing, no start
i got a problem with my van ignition turns on but wont start got my starter checked it's OK i tightend the wires still wont start?
Also @the stiver if your ok with ignition being turned by a screwdriver then more power to ya. I say it's probably not a good idea.
I understand. Its just these are 17 yr old vehicles not showroom pieces so any money I can save on ignition switch means more for engine replacement parts. I've already disabled my door locks so a free turning ignition switch would probably be bad. Mine isn't too hard to turn but ill try a new key first before doing this. Even if my switch jams I can probably cut open my dash and Jerry rig a generic switch in less than an hour. It won't be pretty but my cars already no beauty queen. Thanks for the advice though.
Those pins don't have a lot of free area to file them down.
I have a Mercedes 1999 E320, my key won't turn in the ignition at all. can't get it to move, it comes out but when I stick it in nothing happens and I can't move it. when the door is open it says take key but still my key won't move. any idea how to fix this? I'm guessing it's something with the security
Sorry I thought this posted. First when you file down wafers you create extra tolerance/clearance issues. Wherever you have too much the ignition will wear a grove into the housing which will then cause premature failure. A locksmith does not have to have a vin to recut that key, if he knows what he is doing. I can look at a key and tell you the cuts. Then cutting an original key will correct that issue. Now the second reason for not filing down wafers. It creates burrs. Burrs get stuck. If that ignition gets stuck and you can't turn it to the on position you will have to cut the hard plate cover in a way to get access to the release points. Which will be more expensive. To repair it correctly you need to remove the either bent or broken wafer and/or cut a new key. Your more then welcome to do things as you like but if the ignition sticks off then your pretty fucked for getting it out. I work on Mercedes ignitions for the dealer. I know what I'm talking about. Do not file wafers. They are not called pins. Pins are in house locks and some older model cars. Not this one. They were in ford ignitions up through 96, Chrysler back in the early 80s, and a few others. Call a locksmith because if you get that thing stuck you can count on paying 500-800 to get it out and a new one in.
If I was to pull all of the pins out and reinsert the barrel would the car still start?
it should start with anything you could jam into the cylinder it there are no pins . Other than being a theft risk I'm pretty sure it would work
Ok, so when it rains, it pours.........I was just checking with you on hood liner :----))) Now ignition is locked, hope I can start it.......If it starts, take it to shop, just have him replace the tumbler with a new one? Can I use the same key? mine is a 1995 w202
you can have the lock replaced..not sure if they can use the same key..if you can get it to turn you can easily do this fix for free
Great video, got me a little intimated from doing it. instead of saying turning it to 90 degree position would turning to the 9 clock position be better.a little hard to see everything but i think i got it. will those pins for sure fall out it i dont cover them ?
yes .. once the key is removed there is nothing to hold them in place
My key is stucked and i cant turn it how to fixxx
***** try tapping gently on it while you turn it..vibration may help it line up and turn, also try some penetrating oil...if you can't get it to turn you will need to go to the dealer or a locksmith to have it removed
Thanks
I just bought a white 98 SLK230 with custom 2 tone red and black interior [the guy just bought a 2007 SL500] same issues as in this video sticking key, wouldnt turn, I used channel locks to force the ring off, then sanded claw marks off the ring and repainted the ring - then took a fine file and filed down the tumbler plates until they were as flat as possible with the tumbler - to compensate for a worn key - works fine now - but will buy a new tumbler in the near future, also heater blower motor not working either, a little bit of rust bubbles on the nose of the hood, torn leather seats he originally wanted $4.8k last summer when it was looking sharp [exterior] i bought it in february , he wanted $3.2k by then, i offered him $2.5k a week later we settled on $2.7k , it had new Dunlop tires that are 1 yr old .. now I have this to SLK to scoot around in until my 1992 SL500 is in tip top shape .. then I will sell both - I'm done with having to constantly be working on MBs going with something simpler and easier to work on like a Miata or a Solstice ..
Another spot on repair!
Mine has a weird problem. When I turn the key to pos 1, it would activate the electrical section and at pos 2 the dashboard lights up for 1 sec and then shutsdown completely (pos 3 wont do anything). And sometimes it would fire up the engine at pos 1. Any advise? (its a C220 CDI 2004)
the ignition is completely worn out and the contacts are crossing over .
thank you for this
Hey fupabox. When you re-install, the sensor collar, does it have to be in a certain position? I notice the tumbler key slot sits at an angle and the slot in the sensor collar is to the right.
Allen Lundy when you put the sensor collar back on ,it will only go on in one position..as long as it will pop on , it is the right spot
*****. Thanks. I carefully watched your video and now see that the flat spot is on the right, turns left to lock and the collar. I see the wire for the sensor was on the left side when you pulled your collar off and i noticed how the slot in the chrome ring was positioned. So I should be ok. Now debating whether I am going to fix the steering lock where black piece never locks the steering. If not a law issue, I may just drill all the way through and put a bolt in it so it does jump back plus drill the center of it out so the ignition switch (piece on back of ignition switch) does engage the steering lock. Key to me getting the tumbler to work right was to remove all the dirt out of the tumbler using silicone spray and doing same inside where the tumbler goes. Then I lubed everything and made sure all the tumblers pieces where moving in and out freely. Now, when I put it back together tomorrow, if it starts, I will be happy. I definitely had the switch turned opposite of where it should have been.
Allen Lundy steering lock is merely for anti theft reasons..if you can fix it the way you are explaining..it's all good
2004 s55 amg with keyless go key will not turn ignition eis but will start by pushing keyless switch on gear shift only one key any ideas
I don't have any experience with the "keyless go" system, but it sounds like the steering column lock is stuck or the electronic module in it is bad
Starting to think rear Sams is going bad thanks
i have a 2000 e320 and am not sure if the eis is damaged or the key is not working. i usually can not get my key past position 1 but on the rare occasion i can. any advice?
I'm not very well versed with the EIS since I have never experienced an issue with one... I did have this link in my files in case it ever came up mhhauto.com/Thread-The-ultimate-Mercedes-EIS-repair-guide
Works thanks alot
Do you know if any online store would have the individual climate control buttons. I know it's a very specific part but my blue temp dec. button is cracked from use.
If I can not get my key to position 1, do I have to take it to the dealership? Is there another way to get the cylinder out?
lube the key wiggle it,move the steering wheel side to side to see if it is locking the ignition, tap gently with a screwdriver on the key as you try to turn it..if you have a spare key ,try that....keep trying until you are sure that it won't move.. because it will be a long expensive job if you can't turn the key, A locksmith may be able to drill the tumbler out, but I am not 100% sure
i have a mercedes E-240, the problem is I cannot remove the key, but i can start and turn off the engine. any idea what is the solution for my problem. thanks!
The key will not be released with your foot on the brake and in park..your should feel the click when you release the brake pedal. could be a faulty brake switch
@@fupabox also a faulty park position sensor on the stickshift will not allow the key to release -- saw that in another YT video - it wasnt the key or the tumbler .. it was a lose/worn microswitch for the park position..
I watched this video and thought it might help with my situation. This is a very informative video but I have a different problem. I am able to turn the key from lock to start without any problems. But when I turn the car off the ignition will not release my key. It's a 1996 e320 by the way. Most of the time I have to leave the driver door unlocked with the key in the ignition because i cannot pull the key out. Once in a while it will release the key but the LCD screen under the speedo says Take Key even though the key isn't in the ignition. But this only happens once in a whole most of the time the key will not come out. Which means someone can come along and easily steal my car without a struggle. Anyone have any help for this situation?
check the linkage to the shifter...the key can not be removed if the car isn't in park..if the shift linkage isn't moving all the way then the car may not be recognizing that it is parked..and will hold the key
I have no problem turning the key, but when i turn it over to start the engine it doesn't respond immediately. It takes like half a second. Yesterday it didn't respond at all and i had to turn the key back and forth for it to finally crank. What part of the lock is failing?
It's very hard to say .. could be the key transponder chip, could be the receiver ring around the ignition could be the electrical contacts inside the ignition.
Thanks for the reply! It's a mechanical key, my car is a '93. I think it's the part with the contacts on, i heard they can disintegrate over time. It can be bought seperately quite cheap. Partnumber 2025450104.
This looks like a pain in the balls but I will do it. I've read too many horror stories. Thanks for the vid :)
Hi I have a problem with my W210 1999. Keys keep falling from the ignition cylinder.It is the smart key type.
someone probably had a bunch of heavy keys on a keyring ,hanging from the ignition and wore out the plastic lip that keeps the key in... remove the smart key from your key chain and it should be able to stay in on its own
Thank you very much for your replay and advice.
Is this a w202 1997? I think it was smart key. Do you know if it is possible to put a smart key ignition?
this is a 1997 ...I'm not sure if the newer smart key can be swapped in without all the computers etc. being replaced
Thank you for your video. I've a 1996 C220 but my key still won't turn despite multiple attempts. What does the removal tool (MB Part # 202 589 00 14 00) do? Will it enable me to remove the tumbler if my key won't turn?
Please don´t put any kind of lubrication in you old ignition, it will loosen up all the dirt in it and it will stop moving for good.
hey what about taking out the whole ignition lock assembly?
Thank for the very helpful video. Life saver!
I have a 97 E320. After my battery died,(from leaving interior light on) I jump started it and it would not go over 5 MPH (floored, which has happened b4, but my hubby cleared the codes in the past and corrected that issue)
So I parked it, waiting 4 hubby to get home, and when he got home, the ignition would not turn AT ALL!!
It's been a month and a half and I still don't have a functional car, and I'm losing my mind...
Should I try this?? I am in the car now, and got the channel locks and turned it to the left, as in your video..
Weird thing is, that nothing led up to this.. It never stuck in the past.. Just BAMM!! Thanks 4 the video, and any comments THA may help would be appreciated ..
Peace
check the battery voltage first...if the battery isn't at nearly a full charge the ignition may not recognize the anti theft chip in your key,and won't release the lock in the tumbler..
same exact thing is going on with my car right now, 1999 E320. the key won't turn in the ignition at all! nothing led up to this just parked it and hopped out, and went inside for 10 mins came back out and the key won't turn in the igntion. it's the smart key i think. it's not a metal key, there's a metal key inside it. I just put the key into the ignition and I'm letting it set to see if it will re-sync like you told someone. I'm loosing my mind trying to fix this. any ideas to help me? did you get your car fixed?
Brandon try turning the steering wheel to the left and right while trying to turn the key..if the wheel seems stuck you will need to turn it a bit forcefully..the wheel can sometimes jam on the locking pin which won't allow the key to turn
+fupabox I can turn the wheel it's just hard like no power steering, the key won't move at all just goes in and doesn't make the noise it normally makes when you stick it in. I just put the key in and I'm letting it sit to see if it will re-sync. but the steering wheel will move
Brandon is your battery good ? the car battery I mean
Anyone ever bought a new tumbler? If so, did you have to get it via the dealer since tumbler is electronic.
+Allen Lundy Yes, I ordered one from an independent MB shop. Installed myself. Cost was roughly $135 if I remember correctly.
Hi. It's not completely clear from your video. Did this actually work? Seems like you still have problems at the end of the video.
no problems .. it worked for another 80k km and then the car was sold to Africa as a taxi. It's not the fix I would use on a collector car , but a daily driven old w203 it isn't worth the $ to get a new keyed ignition
Thanks! My friend just bought a 1997 C280 and has this same problem. He watched your video and opted to buy a new tumbler and key off Ebay for like $12 but I m not sure if it will work because it's not an electronic key. If it doesn't work, the sanding/filing method will be used.
my key is an infrared key to a 99 Mercedes c230 kompressor. Do you have any advice on that???
what's the issue with it ??
Where does that tumbler at the ignition with wire where does it connect to
+tawanda chakawa It identifies the antitheft chip in the key
the transponder ring's wire connects to a connector at the base of the ignition switch - the bottom half of the plastic dash under the steering wheel has to be removed to access it ..
Hi, I have just subscribed to your channel, can you help as I have a c36 with one key and it won't turn to position 1, have tried alot past two days.
Any recommendations please.
Thanks
Damn it! Tuis just happened to me just now! Good thing im parked at home :s bad news is i want to get to work QQ anyways going to do what i saw when i get back thanks man.
I will let you know what they say on Monday. Should only need programming or activation, etc.
TheElder Al I
What if my w210 key won't turn?, smart key
+Jamaica Dancehall TV If it is the square end non traditional key, the problem is usually that the key isn't being recognized by the ignition tumbler.. lots of things can cause it, but a bad battery is first to check..press button and see if the red led inside glows.. then re syncing the key with the car by putting the key in the ignition and leaving it there for a few hours.. don't try to turn it, just leave the key in and let the key and ignition resync to each other
***** Thank you for replying, the awkward thing is that the eis recognizes the key because it unlocks the steering and makes the sound, but the key will not rotate in the ignition, had to tow the car back home last night. Any ideas?
+Jamaica Dancehall TV the wheel unlocks and you can hear the click, then the key won't turn.. odd... try the resync just in case..I'll see if I can find an answer
***** The key was the issue, had another key programmed and this one fixed by re-solder, thanks
Jamaica Dancehall TV excellent... glad you got it working
Hi fupabox, me again (in Brazil) - E320 stuck shift btwn R and D. Once I move to P position, shift will not move to R, unless I manually turn a little wheel on the side of the assembly. I just found out I cannot remove the key from ignition even on a P position...OMG ! are the problems related one to another? anyway I can send you a pic from the shifter? Pls help..Best
+Edesio Mandelli Yes they are related.. the key can only be removed when the shifter is in park. and your foot is off the brake..something in the brake switch is not functioning
Great..gonna check on that...
Well this is information i need badly you see i am another victim. I am at the post office i go out and my doors are locked so i reach in drivers side and unlock the door beep beep the alarm goes off so i go to the passengers side and unlock the door and the alarm turned off ,so i get in try to start it and it will not turn. So i attempted everything i removed the black thing around the ignition and it seems like the cylinder would easily come out. But if the key is not to the first click i guess I am pretty much out of the game .....? so i attempted to drill the tumbler out, nothing i could not even scratch it all the shaking from the drill did nothing i called the dealer and he tells me 800$ plus to replace the cylinder.I think i can get dynamite cheaper. is there any chance for me to ever drive this E420 again ? if i remove it and replace it ? my key bob thing is wasted i bought the car not knowing anything about the key bob. please anything at all will help . thank you It is a 1997 E420
+Mark Helzer try watching this... ruclips.net/video/8D_SmpZfDmk/видео.html
how on earth did you find this out - amazing
:)
Fupabox. I dropped that key in the water long ago; only have the regular key. So I thank I am going to tow it to the dealer next week and order keys: electronic and backup. It will hit me $300 but it no other cost so far. My insurance should pick up the cost unless you have another idea for programming the regular key.
Allen Lundy try locking and unlocking the door with the reg. key..then ignition within 10 seconds.. if it doesn't work the dealer option may be the only option unfortunately
How many miles do you recommend to this?
This can last indefinitely once it's filed down . I always remove my car key from the rest of the keys now to keep weight from wearing down the tumbler . More convenient leaving them in the glovebox and only having 1 key in my pocket .
Really appreciate the videos! I think I have a related issue on my 2000 SL; often times when I remove the key after shutting off the engine, and then I open the door, I get beeping as if the ignition switch thinks the key is still in the ignition. It's happening more and more now and it leaves the exterior marker lights on = drained battery. I've tried spraying contact cleaner and silicone spray in the keyhole, but it doesn't really seem to have much effect. Any suggestions?
+pezzonovante888 it sounds more like a lighting issue than an ignition...car beeping as if lights were left on. Try switching the light switch back and forth ever so slightly from the off position next time it happens, and if that stops it then you know it's likely the headlight module. it may just be a bit sticky between the lights on and parking light position...over the years carbon tracking can build up in the grease that lubricates the switch contacts..eventually there is enough residual carbon to create a circuit through the grease even though the switch is off.. pulling the switch apart and cleaning off the old grease, and putting new dielectric grease in could solve the problem
Interesting. The thought had crossed my mind about the possibility of it being lighting. Hmmm, I'll check it out. I'll message you how it works out.
Thanks a lot man.
+fupabox You were right! Turns out it was the daytime running light relay. Part's on order.
pezzonovante888 glad you got it sorted :)
Will this work on a 1999 e320
as long as you have the old flip switchblade key it should work
@fupabox i have a ml320 1998 i can start the car and all but it takes a few twist and turning the key in the ignition before it starts, what could be the problem?
do you mean you have to wiggle the key around...or that the car tries to start, but takes a few tries
+fupabox sorry I mean you have to wiggle the key around first, the car works fine and all but when I insert the key in the ignition you have to wiggle it a few times and it's starting to Irritate me because on my other Benz I'm so used to just inserting the key and smoothly turning the key without having to really use some force.
+fupabox do you know which part could be true problem and thanks for the response sir
+Wwjcd also I can take the key in and out the ignition easily it's just you got to wiggle the key do you know what could be the problem?
the ignition is worn..maybe you can lube it a bit , but if that doesn't help you will need a new ignition tumbler
I lost my only ignition key will I still be able to replace the tumbler assembly without my key ?
you will have to drill it out ..not est but it can be done
only parked my car for 10 mins and came back out and now my key won't turn in the igintion. it's a e320 1999. I'd love someone forever if they told me how I could fix this.
Brandon Blackfrye how did you fix?
Thanks again!
Im having the sane problem right now nd i cant get it to turn 90 degrees is there anyway we can talk over the phone please
NO AUDIO
This was a suggested video from you tube. I really can’t believe my eyes! I just fixed one of these at work today in 1 hour. Some rube didn’t know what he was doing (as demonstrated). Please go to someone who knows what they are doing and disregard this video. Sorry sir no offence.
what if i just removed all the pins ^^ ? i mean there is chip so the car wont run without the real key :P
That's funny .. I never thought of that.. It would likely work
i would have to try it myself once i get the removal tool coz i couldnt take it apart last time :< and its getting REALLY stuck on me the last few months :< god damn key guy or whatever they are called quoted me 100$ to "fix" it and this is going to be the second time now .... heck the whole tumbler assembly is 10$ on ebay with 2 keys >>
Yeah it's a real pain in the A** to get out. $10 seems a much better deal than $100 :)
or get all the pins out thats even cheaper :P
And he still doesnt have the correct tools = more damage.
There is no way, I would do this. I would rather pay $500 buck then really screw the ignition.
sadiedog2319 As mentioned there's that special tool for it which is why it costs that much.
Annnnnnd my key broke.... Good thing its only the joint thingy the hooks the key to the keyknob plastick thinngy... Oh well time to spind money i dont have to fix it ^^weeee fun...
can i spray WD40 inside of it ? that might loosen things up ??
KingStivan that sux. if you can find silicone spray it would be better..the wd40 will work temporarily but will eventually attract dust
im going to use it !! the car is under my house and i dont want to pay for a truck to get it fixed !! so the hell with it !! i think its time for me to buy a cheap keyfob/remote and install it anyways .... damn merc for their high price`s !!
KingStivan It should work..
it did not work QQ i had to take it to a key guy ((i dont know what they are called :P )) paid 35$ to the tow truck and when i got there he took the damn thing apart took him like 20min to get it loose/out of the car and like an-hour + to fix it ((he told me to sit down :< but i heard drilling/grinding/pounding and stuff for ever :P)) and since my key was broke he said its 35$ only to clone the metal part of the key ((mine was broken even more + the remote chip inside was dead too)) so i asked for a new remote key/device he said about 70$ so i bought that since it comes with a key :> so i had to pay 230$ ish for the every thing QQ anyways at the end he told me all the brass pins in side were bent/snapped he had to change them all !! after this fix all i have is bad differential , interior, poor power im guessing here its the SC , every thing rubber in car :P and the inner door handle is getting broken :P i pain so much on this car yet im not willing to sell it !! at this point its a loss if i sell it xD like 65% loss :P damn it ^^
DO NOT EVER FILE DOWN WAFERS IN A LOCK. I am a locksmith. You will create long term issues. Also those are not pins in that ignition. Those are wafers. This advice will destroy you ignition in the long term. Contact a licensed locksmith. They can cut you a new key. If it's a programmed key you may have to go to the dealer because no one has cracked Mercedes programming yet.
A new key isn't the issue..the issue is worn pins/wafers..the new key will only be cut to the VIN# and will not work at all,and you will have spent a few hundred dollars on nothing...I would honestly like to know how this would harm the ignition in the long run ?
Appreciate the input
I love people that cry gloom and doom and then don't have any facts to back up their "expertise". I think the only issue you'll experience is loss of contributions to your local locksmith. May possibly eventually make the ignition just turn with a screwdriver?
Try a NEW key and a little WD 40 in the barrel before you do this modification if no joy folloe the vid good luck.
man.put.a.letool.motor.ouol...andat.wiil.l.dueat.
mersadas.is.amany.pet.no.good.......jankam.all.to.meney.praloms.man.
This vid is confusing man...
gat.an.LTD.ar.forabos.barotos.then.marsades.all.isi.in.mersads.ito.maney.praloms.
Butcher at work!
Why not just order a new tumbler cut to code and replace?
Don't buy a used car from this guy!
I have a Mercedes 1999 E320, my key won't turn in the ignition at all. can't get it to move, it comes out but when I stick it in nothing happens and I can't move it. when the door is open it says take key but still my key won't move. any idea how to fix this? I'm guessing it's something with the security
im having the same problem with my 2000 e320 did you get your car started if so how did you fix it or what was the problem?
Emily Williams b
Hey sorry for the late response but I never ended up fixing it at all... I had to sell it as is because I couldn't get the key to turn. One second I was driving it around my neighborhood, pulled up in my driveway to sign some papers and the title over and when the buyer turned it off and we went to stick the key back in after about 15 mins it wouldn't turn at all... won't even budge... There's a bunch of different tricks you could try to do if you look around on RUclips but I couldn't get it to work..... and the gentlemen I sold it to had to get it towed even tho it ran and he told me the key still won't move and the mechanics he brought it to couldn't figure it out why either
will this work for a 1997 w140 because mine yesterday started doing that, i have to wiggle it around for it to open and start the car
first lube it and see if that helps..the key or the tumbler is likely wearing down..you can prolong the life of the key and tumbler by never using a keychain..keep the ignition key separate from all your other keys and just clip it back on when getting out of the car
fupabox