Thanks for the Great Content - it Saved my behind. ..X-mas day 2024 - tenant calls & says Dishwasher is Not Working. I go in next day. Washer wasn't working. I thought - drain pump - usual cause. NoPE.. it won't Start..This was a head scratcher. I found your Vid & decided to give it a go. BUT I ended up Not having to replace the switch. I removed the door and Panel - I pushed the start button, for the Hell of it, and the Washer started WoRKiNG. (there was a short in the wiring that lead into the switch. ) I let the machine run. reassembled the Door and Panel. Ran it again, before Giving the Tenant the Thumbs Up.
My latch proved to be bad after it got water-logged (due to a drain blockage). It shorted and essentially melted where the spade connectors entered the latch. It also explains the faint burning smell in the days after the 'moisture incident' and when it finally failed. Thanks for the video. I was able to hack it so I could use the machine while waiting for parts. In 2022 the new latch is $60 from Amazon.
Thanks for helping me confirm what i thought was the problem, almost the same dishwasher all the Schematics are pretty much the same as yours. . Was pretty sure the switch was bad. I checked continuity on the switch when door was latched to diagnose, and sure enough switch wasn’t closing on the side the hot leg was connected, just needed to make sure I was right and this vid put my mind at ease. I used some wires form a safety float switch (I’m and hvac tech) and put insulated male spades on them to connect. Now I can wash dishes while I wait on new switch to arrive. Just have to make sure door is closed before turning on.
Good tutorial, my machine (exactly like yours but different model number) had the exact same problem. My switch was defective (no continuity) on the right side of the two switches. I was able to repair at ZERO cost! Once you have the handle/latch removed and the switches unplugged, you will find, that by lifting up the little black tab with a small screwdriver, you can slide the white switches out of the black handle assembly. Once you have them out, look at the end opposite of the connectors. You can see the small round contacts of the switches on the end of two thin metal "leaves." I simply folded a thin strip of emery paper (super fine sandpaper) and carefully inserted it between the two contacts and sanded gently. I think the contacts become oxidized over time, and stop conducting. If these contacts are initially coated from the factory, they may oxidize again after a short time, but at least it buys you some time to order a replacement latch assembly. When you are done, slide the switches fully into the handle, then remount the handle onto the door. Plug in the leads, push the fully door closed and test. I think you will be pleasantly surprised to see your dishwasher works again!
Hello Gregor, I was able to fix my dishwasher by following these exact same instructions. Thank you for posting this. I also added a little dialectric grease to keep the contacts from oxidizing again. Saved me money.
@@oldtimer6528 Those contacts carry a decent amount of amperage which might degrade the grease, which is not designed to be heat resistant or resistant to arcing (which caused the contact points to degrade in the first place)
Thank You so much, you saved me a lot. I used metal paper clips as connector, instead of cable for testing :-) Then when I connected everything back, the dishwasher started working. I didn't have to buy a new latch.
You answered my question that was not directly related to replacement of the latch, namely, does the latch normally make a popping sound when opening or closing. It most certainly does, as your video shows. I was concerned, as other brand dishwashers I've had, notably Maytag or Bosch, barely evidence any click or pop whatsoever when the door is opened or closed. I was very concerned that there was something wrong with our new Frigidaire. But no. Thanks!
Hi I have a Hotpoint dishwasher FDUD43133P the door catch has broken but I cannot remember where all the connectors go after replacing the door catch can you please help
Does anyone know the name of the engineer or department head responsible for the plastic latching mechanism on these dishwashers? I'd love to have a conversation with them.
Trust me. It's most likely the executives. "how can we make more money after someone buys the product?" "oh have to break down and sell them repair parts at 500% markup"
Replaced latch, but accidentally closed door and now guts are hanging... the cancel button or any of the other functions aren't working after they light up. They blink and then go dark and do not light up again. Any ideas?
@mathuser7 that whole dishwasher was failure mode. I got latch Fixed, pump went out the following week. I trashed it entirely for scrap and got a new, (different brand), dishwasher.
It's a mechanical switch made with injection molded plastic and a couple of contacts latching over a metal hook (hook is on the door). Too much force or too much non-gentle use and the plastic breaks breaking the latch.
desertdispatch its probably not a useful exercise, it might be possible to force a broken latch closed and get continuity, but that doesn't mean it will close the circuit when its assembled in the washer. It's way easier just to bypass/ jump the leads for a minute and see if the washer runs without the latch in question.
most people don't know how to check for continuity. the power should be cut off before unscrewing the first screw. I'm a tech, I would use the ohm method.
I was wondering the same. I’m getting no response/no lights on my control panel. I did get 120v on both sides of the switch and even to the control board. I’m thinking the keypad must be bad, but I’m going to exhaust every other possibility before I pay high cost for a new one on a 15yr old washer.
what are the specs of the electric wire you used? any danger to using a wire with an improper gauge, amperage limit, or maximum wattage load limit? I'm a total newbie to electric wiring so I don't know what's 'common sense'.
If you use a wire with too small a gauge it will melt, maybe paper clips is not a great idea lol... If in doubt just cut a short piece of 14 awg wire, that's what runs power to the dishwasher in your wall, so it's more than sufficient to bridge the gap. I think my speaker wire is 16 or 18 awg.
Seems to me it would have been easier to just remove wires from latch and short with your wires instead of removing the latch. Also I would have put the screw driver in from above not below to keep it from falling out. Finally I wish you would have tried the diagnostics mode again to show how that worked.
Could jump the wires without removing the latch yes, but either I knew it was bad already (because I did the testing process before I filmed / bought the replacement parts which aren't returnable) or it was just easier to work with the plugs and wires removing it first. For the screw driver, the counter overhangs the dishwasher blocking it from going in in that orientation. Diagnostics mode is explained on the worksheet, it's pretty boring... Most people fall asleep before getting that far in the video as it is. ;-)
+Alfredo Pereyra Were you able to run the dish washer a full cycle by bypassing the latch / wiring the leads? If so, then your replacement latch is bad (because plugs, wiring harness and dishwasher are okay). If not, you've got something else wrong that I don't know anything about.
Thanks for the Great Content - it Saved my behind. ..X-mas day 2024 - tenant calls & says Dishwasher is Not Working. I go in next day. Washer wasn't working. I thought - drain pump - usual cause. NoPE.. it won't Start..This was a head scratcher. I found your Vid & decided to give it a go. BUT I ended up Not having to replace the switch. I removed the door and Panel - I pushed the start button, for the Hell of it, and the Washer started WoRKiNG. (there was a short in the wiring that lead into the switch. ) I let the machine run. reassembled the Door and Panel. Ran it again, before Giving the Tenant the Thumbs Up.
Thank you so much for your work, your video help me to save a ton of time and money to avoid buying a new control board or new dishwasher
Glad it helped 😄
My latch proved to be bad after it got water-logged (due to a drain blockage). It shorted and essentially melted where the spade connectors entered the latch. It also explains the faint burning smell in the days after the 'moisture incident' and when it finally failed. Thanks for the video. I was able to hack it so I could use the machine while waiting for parts. In 2022 the new latch is $60 from Amazon.
Thanks for helping me confirm what i thought was the problem, almost the same dishwasher all the Schematics are pretty much the same as yours. . Was pretty sure the switch was bad. I checked continuity on the switch when door was latched to diagnose, and sure enough switch wasn’t closing on the side the hot leg was connected, just needed to make sure I was right and this vid put my mind at ease. I used some wires form a safety float switch (I’m and hvac tech) and put insulated male spades on them to connect. Now I can wash dishes while I wait on new switch to arrive. Just have to make sure door is closed before turning on.
Good tutorial, my machine (exactly like yours but different model number) had the exact same problem. My switch was defective (no continuity) on the right side of the two switches.
I was able to repair at ZERO cost! Once you have the handle/latch removed and the switches unplugged, you will find, that by lifting up the little black tab with a small screwdriver, you can slide the white switches out of the black handle assembly.
Once you have them out, look at the end opposite of the connectors. You can see the small round contacts of the switches on the end of two thin metal "leaves." I simply folded a thin strip of emery paper (super fine sandpaper) and carefully inserted it between the two contacts and sanded gently. I think the contacts become oxidized over time, and stop conducting. If these contacts are initially coated from the factory, they may oxidize again after a short time, but at least it buys you some time to order a replacement latch assembly.
When you are done, slide the switches fully into the handle, then remount the handle onto the door. Plug in the leads, push the fully door closed and test. I think you will be pleasantly surprised to see your dishwasher works again!
Definitely something to try if the latch mechanism isn't broken free like mine was, thanks for the tip!
Hello Gregor, I was able to fix my dishwasher by following these exact same instructions. Thank you for posting this. I also added a little dialectric grease to keep the contacts from oxidizing again. Saved me money.
@@oldtimer6528 Those contacts carry a decent amount of amperage which might degrade the grease, which is not designed to be heat resistant or resistant to arcing (which caused the contact points to degrade in the first place)
I think I may have the same issue. A can of contact cleaner will be getting out tonight!
Thank you very much. I made the repair as shown on the video. You saved me $200.
Thank You so much, you saved me a lot. I used metal paper clips as connector, instead of cable for testing :-)
Then when I connected everything back, the dishwasher started working. I didn't have to buy a new latch.
You answered my question that was not directly related to replacement of the latch, namely, does the latch normally make a popping sound when opening or closing. It most certainly does, as your video shows. I was concerned, as other brand dishwashers I've had, notably Maytag or Bosch, barely evidence any click or pop whatsoever when the door is opened or closed. I was very concerned that there was something wrong with our new Frigidaire. But no. Thanks!
Happy to be of help 😄
Thanks! You're the one video that helped me solve it!
Hi I have a Hotpoint dishwasher FDUD43133P the door catch has broken but I cannot remember where all the connectors go after replacing the door catch can you please help
This helped me so much! Thanks! I thought I'd have to call a repairman or buy a new latch.
Campos Legacy You're most welcome, glad it was helpful.
H myth%y/\
Ok so I have buttons on top, when I open it i select normal wash and hit start and shut door but does not start...thoughts?
Does anyone know the name of the engineer or department head responsible for the plastic latching mechanism on these dishwashers? I'd love to have a conversation with them.
Trust me. It's most likely the executives. "how can we make more money after someone buys the product?" "oh have to break down and sell them repair parts at 500% markup"
Replaced latch, but accidentally closed door and now guts are hanging... the cancel button or any of the other functions aren't working after they light up. They blink and then go dark and do not light up again.
Any ideas?
Sounds like you're in power failure mode
@mathuser7 that whole dishwasher was failure mode. I got latch Fixed, pump went out the following week. I trashed it entirely for scrap and got a new, (different brand), dishwasher.
how does a latch fail? isn't it a mechanical switch?? unless it broke
It's a mechanical switch made with injection molded plastic and a couple of contacts latching over a metal hook (hook is on the door). Too much force or too much non-gentle use and the plastic breaks breaking the latch.
cant you perform a continuity test on the latch terminals and make any determination if the latch is good or bad?
desertdispatch its probably not a useful exercise, it might be possible to force a broken latch closed and get continuity, but that doesn't mean it will close the circuit when its assembled in the washer. It's way easier just to bypass/ jump the leads for a minute and see if the washer runs without the latch in question.
most people don't know how to check for continuity. the power should be cut off before unscrewing the first screw. I'm a tech, I would use the ohm method.
I was wondering the same. I’m getting no response/no lights on my control panel. I did get 120v on both sides of the switch and even to the control board. I’m thinking the keypad must be bad, but I’m going to exhaust every other possibility before I pay high cost for a new one on a 15yr old washer.
what are the specs of the electric wire you used? any danger to using a wire with an improper gauge, amperage limit, or maximum wattage load limit? I'm a total newbie to electric wiring so I don't know what's 'common sense'.
If you use a wire with too small a gauge it will melt, maybe paper clips is not a great idea lol... If in doubt just cut a short piece of 14 awg wire, that's what runs power to the dishwasher in your wall, so it's more than sufficient to bridge the gap. I think my speaker wire is 16 or 18 awg.
our latch locks but the door pops open and the dishwasher continues to wash making a mess on the floor
Maybe your latch is stuck "on"... does your machine start with the door open? if so, what about if you physically remove the latch?
Seems to me it would have been easier to just remove wires from latch and short with your wires instead of removing the latch. Also I would have put the screw driver in from above not below to keep it from falling out. Finally I wish you would have tried the diagnostics mode again to show how that worked.
Could jump the wires without removing the latch yes, but either I knew it was bad already (because I did the testing process before I filmed / bought the replacement parts which aren't returnable) or it was just easier to work with the plugs and wires removing it first. For the screw driver, the counter overhangs the dishwasher blocking it from going in in that orientation. Diagnostics mode is explained on the worksheet, it's pretty boring... Most people fall asleep before getting that far in the video as it is. ;-)
Thank you
I replaced the door latched and after 5 minutes with the new latch i get again the CL error. Any ideas?
+Alfredo Pereyra Were you able to run the dish washer a full cycle by bypassing the latch / wiring the leads? If so, then your replacement latch is bad (because plugs, wiring harness and dishwasher are okay). If not, you've got something else wrong that I don't know anything about.
main control board possibly bad?
This would be awesome in 3-D.
Good deal Bro thanks.
good