Strange Electronic Speed Control Problem
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- A strange fault on my ESC prompted me to make this video for the RCM&E forum gurus to see what they thought, you can read the progress here: shorturl.at/XlqUL, cheers
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Right, here's the result of trying the esc in a model with the same motor ... six minutes in and hey presto the problem occurred again ... motor died and the esc went back into connection mode with the beeps, closed the throttle and the motor beeped four times and it fired up again, it didn't do this on this deadstick flight though! Perhaps it was a lot hotter.
Anyway thanks all for the ideas in conclusion I'll increase the air outlet hole in the cowl and install an 80amp while I'm at it, thanks again, cheers.
Ground runs, my favourite maintenance action
Yes indeed Phil.
After checking all connections and battery condition, trying a different ESC was a logical step. RC hobby devices made in China to a price point aren't aerospace grade, amazing they are as good as they are.
I'll scene have her in the air again Gary with an 80 amp ESC 👍
That’s very odd, I definitely wouldn’t trust that thing, Jeff’s got the right idea 😂
Not worth the risk Eric, cheers 👍
Is the timing in the esc adjustable?
It is Ron, I'm just reading the leaflet now, cheers
Is there any exit for cooling air from the cowl? You showed where air could get in, but I didn't notice any exit holes. I think the rule of thumb is twice the inlet area for exit.
I realise the ESC misbehaved later with no cowl but even a replacement ESC will want functional cooling. 🙂
Hi Richard, I have a 'spoon' outlet either side of the cowl (white) but definately not twice the size of the inlet.
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes I like the spoon method. :-) I wonder whether the firewall is an area of airflow stagnation within the cowl? Maybe mount it on an angled plate under the motor box, so that the air through the grill passes directly over the ESC on its way to the spoons?
@@RichardTapp1I like the angle idea, I'll use that, cheers Richard 🙂👍
The air hole out of the model needs to be bigger than the intake but even with the cowl off same problem.
Yep same problem, I can make a outlet in the bottom of the cowl but the esc barely gets warm to the touch with the two 'spoon' outlets that I have on either side.
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Tend to agree with Jeff in LA USA.
Use the force obionekenobi
I bet you had to Google that spelling Barry! Lol
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes noope
Very odd indeed, and worrying that it ran with throttle closed. The fact the esc was resetting looks like the operating voltage dropped too low, like one I mentioned to you that kept resetting. Though your gadget showed the lipo was ok? Weird.
In the bin with that! 😮.
And no, I don't want it thanx. 😅
Thanks Bob, the batteries are almost new but I popped the meter on to be sure one cell wasn't bad, I'll open the esc up and have a poke around... nothing to lose 🤔👍
My Lidl resets the motor relatively often. I think it might depend on the battery. I also was thinking of cable interference if they are all very close and possibly also due to not so good soldering.
Leaving he engine running is really strange, as if the calibration of the ESC didn't work almost. I guess to troubleshoot, the first thing would be to switch the receiver, then the ESC and then the motor, but don't listen to me, I am just guessing in the dark.
I tried another ESC in the model Andrew and no problems at all, I also tried the suspect ESC in another model and the same problem occurred so it's definitely the ESC. I'm going to fit a bigger ESC, smaller propeller and I've been improved the cooling 👍
Bad esc most likely but could it be over propped? Even so it shouldn't reset at 1/4 throttle. Test with another esc but verify the right prop to not cook another esc.
Thanks for the ideas, it is a big prop but it's under the maximum amp draw for the esc, the next esc will be an 80amp 👍
Could try cutting off the heat shrink and examining the PCB under an eyeglass. As the electronics are likely CMOS you can damage the components just through handling, so getting a CMOS grounding wrist strap would be advisable. If you can see a cracked joint you MAY be able to solder it but that needs a soldering iron compatibe with soldering surface mount devices ( I am assuming that it isn't a pin through hole construction) If there is nothing obviously wrong, then what I do next with such devices is carefully lay them on the garage floor, get a 1 lb hammer and hit it hard. Then collect the shrapnel and consign to the waste bin. That way you will never be tempted to use it again and wreck several tens of hours of work crashing a treasured model.
Wise words, thanks for the image, it made us laugh 🙂👍
How much does an outfit like coast?
Hi George, if you're talking about the whole model, radio gear and all, you could expect to pay in the region of £500. I already had the radio equipment and batteries and, as I built the model (well, finished it off really), it was just the cost of the motor and speed controller (esc), say £100, cheers. If you're new to radio control flying then you could get into it a lot cheaper by buying second hand but always join a club first.
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Thank you for the information.
Have you tried an other esc
I've just tried the esc in another model with the same motor and the problem occurred Paul, so it's the esc. I've got an 80amp out of said model and I'll try it in the Mercury but I don't think I'll have any problems, cheers
Great
@@YogenhI've just tried the 80amp and no problems whatsoever 👍
Cliff get rid of that esc or give to a “friend “ 😂😅. Would not trust it anymore. Jeff in LA USA
Shame really it's pretty new although I've had it a couple of years it's hardly run, cheers Jeff
😂