Thanks for the video.There are much cheaper alternatives online that basically do the same thing. The price they're asking for this is ridiculous and having to address rattle or use rubber pads at this price is even worse
TBF it's tricky to find something that works like a Tremel-no, plenty of stops and tremsetters. It's why the Hardtailer caught my eye. Of course a much cheaper door slide bolt would do the same job just trickier to setup and no fine tuning.
I have this on all my recent guitars. It’s very convenient and well made. There was a similar one also German made for a while, but that seemed to go out of business, so ENGL it is!
Looking forward to seeing this journey! I picked up a 1993 N2 Paduk stain at the beginning of the year and its intended path forward is *very* similar to this!
Hi, good for you! I'm an author of one of those... less favourable reviews on Thomann. You were a bit lucky (or I was unlucky) with the fact you had perfectly planed cavity. In my case the cavity was painted with this black, conductive paint and not even at all and that lead to the hardailer being bent, and if it's bent it doesn't operate smoothly, in extreme case, like it was initially in my case - you couldn't pull the rivet out at all. Hence, I needed to plane the cavity for Hardtailer to work properly. I also had the problem with springs resting on the hardailer which introduced a lot of spring noise and also hampered the bridge operation. Also, you applied some damping on the screw right from the get go, as mentioned in the reviews. I didn't do it as not to hamper the resonance of the guitar. I had to do the thing you mentioned, that is tighten the springs but this leads to other problems after disengaging hardtailer. Maybe dampening the screw is a better resolution to the problem after all. One thing you might consider doing is to fix the screw in some way as it will change it's setting eventually. Best
Look I think it's a really great device but the price is just stupid, I've had a bit to do with machining over the years and know what it costs to produce something like this. I've been using small slide bolt locks for cupboards for like 30 years to do the same thing, granted you can't fine tune as such. Saying that if you drop tune quite often then it's worth it.
@mastertheguitar Good to hear. All my guitars have trems, and all are blocked off except a Patrick Eggle and an Ibanez RG770, which I'd really like to block, but would like it to be easily reversible. This looks like a better option than the Tremol-No.
Right after this thing appeared on Thomann, there were selling exactly the same product for like 25-30 € in silver color without Engl logo ofc. Now, €80 for the same product is insane.
Sorry, that is just not correct. I've many of these already. When it was still called "Guitar-Guard Hardtailer Trem Block System", it was 88 euro, now it is 89. I've looked it up. Not in any way connected to the product, but again bought many of these already. Expensive, but for me they work flawlessly for that couple of drop D songs with my GOTOH 510 equipped guitars.
There are freely available 3D prints that will, in essence, do the same thing. Now I don’t suggest going down that road with regular fdm filament, but if you’re willing to take the time to figure out engineering filament print(nylon and polycarbonate being the most common) I say go for it. I’m doing that exact same thing right now.
Full Washburn N2 DEMO here - ruclips.net/video/nXp2ZNGKNmU/видео.htmlsi=qLIQXrbNYN23qm7v
Thanks for the video.There are much cheaper alternatives online that basically do the same thing. The price they're asking for this is ridiculous and having to address rattle or use rubber pads at this price is even worse
TBF it's tricky to find something that works like a Tremel-no, plenty of stops and tremsetters. It's why the Hardtailer caught my eye. Of course a much cheaper door slide bolt would do the same job just trickier to setup and no fine tuning.
I have this on all my recent guitars. It’s very convenient and well made. There was a similar one also German made for a while, but that seemed to go out of business, so ENGL it is!
Looking forward to seeing this journey! I picked up a 1993 N2 Paduk stain at the beginning of the year and its intended path forward is *very* similar to this!
Sweet!
@@mastertheguitar hope yours doesn’t need a refret li’e mine!
@@thomasrobertson4213 Ouch no, frets all good full demo is at ruclips.net/video/nXp2ZNGKNmU/видео.html
A bit spendy but seems quality made.
Hi, good for you! I'm an author of one of those... less favourable reviews on Thomann. You were a bit lucky (or I was unlucky) with the fact you had perfectly planed cavity. In my case the cavity was painted with this black, conductive paint and not even at all and that lead to the hardailer being bent, and if it's bent it doesn't operate smoothly, in extreme case, like it was initially in my case - you couldn't pull the rivet out at all. Hence, I needed to plane the cavity for Hardtailer to work properly. I also had the problem with springs resting on the hardailer which introduced a lot of spring noise and also hampered the bridge operation. Also, you applied some damping on the screw right from the get go, as mentioned in the reviews. I didn't do it as not to hamper the resonance of the guitar. I had to do the thing you mentioned, that is tighten the springs but this leads to other problems after disengaging hardtailer. Maybe dampening the screw is a better resolution to the problem after all. One thing you might consider doing is to fix the screw in some way as it will change it's setting eventually. Best
Look I think it's a really great device but the price is just stupid, I've had a bit to do with machining over the years and know what it costs to produce something like this. I've been using small slide bolt locks for cupboards for like 30 years to do the same thing, granted you can't fine tune as such. Saying that if you drop tune quite often then it's worth it.
£5 for a box of different sized O-Rings from Amazon mate. That should sort any rattles.
Actually got a box of rings a while back for DIY stuff, thankfully tho it's been solid, no rattles. 👍
@mastertheguitar Good to hear. All my guitars have trems, and all are blocked off except a Patrick Eggle and an Ibanez RG770, which I'd really like to block, but would like it to be easily reversible. This looks like a better option than the Tremol-No.
Right after this thing appeared on Thomann, there were selling exactly the same product for like 25-30 € in silver color without Engl logo ofc.
Now, €80 for the same product is insane.
@@kennethdarlington yeah remember seeing the original. Assume ENGL bought the rights to it.
Sorry, that is just not correct. I've many of these already. When it was still called "Guitar-Guard Hardtailer Trem Block System", it was 88 euro, now it is 89. I've looked it up. Not in any way connected to the product, but again bought many of these already. Expensive, but for me they work flawlessly for that couple of drop D songs with my GOTOH 510 equipped guitars.
Good looking product. Although marking those last two holes and immediately drilling without taking the item out didnt make much sense haha.
Yeah thought that afterwards, force of habit I guess 😂
why do they always cost so much? just a small piece on metal...
Yeah it's pricey can only assume some 'designer/patent' costs are included.
@@mhenkka what the market will bare?
There are freely available 3D prints that will, in essence, do the same thing. Now I don’t suggest going down that road with regular fdm filament, but if you’re willing to take the time to figure out engineering filament print(nylon and polycarbonate being the most common) I say go for it. I’m doing that exact same thing right now.
a hundred pounds?????
I didnt know Wes Borland had a youtube channel
😂😂😂😂