I could use the monkey business one but that would upset 1 or 2 people. Came up on a feed the other day, monkeys climbing power poles. Lets just say they got a bigger jolt than t he bird did and it didn't end well for the monkey or all his friend that folllowed.
18 years for a florescent tube, that's really good. I don't miss incandescent bulbs; the ones in the house that got turned on and off a lot, like a hallway light, would burn out after a couple months, and always at night, LOL. I remember those florescent desk lamps with the button you held down to turn on.
One of the 42 watt cfl bulbs in the work shop just burned our. It was installed in 2002. I did have to fix it once or twice, bad connections on inverter board. It finally quit last year. Don't know how many hours on it but quite a few. It runs whenever I am working in the shop and it on for probably 10 to 15 hours a week.
@12voltvids I remember the first time I saw compact florescent bulbs, it was at my local Home Depot, around 1993. Reading the specs on the box, I thought, cool, I've got to try them. 15 or 20 watts for the same brightness as a 60 or 75 watt incandescent bulb, and 5+ years average life instead of 1100 hours. It was a win-win to me. I went all cfl until the LED bulbs came out and became affordable, around the late-2000's.
By the way, modern video codecs are FPS dependent. They have coefficients based on the FPS. If you try to change the FPS without re-encoding it, the file will be corrupt. I learned it the hard way. Codecs use this for example to blur parts of images of fast movement that the eye cannot see. This is one thing why modern video codecs are so much more efficient in terms of the amount of data needed to represent the video. When you change the FPS of a video, you have to re-encode it. This is why I always capture in ridiculously high bitrates (actually just a visually lossless setting like CRF 14 or so) to have a high quality encoding after editing.
Thanks Dave. Did You check the output voltages of the Power Supply ?? That Board looked bent/warped Could the Screw have put to much pressure on the Heat sink to crack the Board ? Mike M.
My 15 year old toshiba regza lcd 47” has developed an odd problem. When first turned on the right side has fold over with 4 horizontal lines. This only affects the right side of the screen, the horizontal lines went across the screen. After about 15-20 minutes the problem disappears giving a normal picture. Once in awhile the cold startup gets a red, dark screen that goes away after time also eventually a good picture.
Hey I had a question about a vcr, my vcr is a gold star gvp c125, and when I put in a tape the motor head spins and then the lights turn on, but when I put a tape in it, the motor whirs and the head spins but the pinchers don’t grab the tape nor does it eject when it is not functioning. Do you think this is a mode switch problem or what could I do to help it? -A friendly vcr enthusiast
4:33 - Nope. This thing is done for. It most likely cracked a BGA solder joint. Good luck fixing that. Baking doesn't help long term. It needs to be reballed properly. And almost nobody got the tools for that because you need the exact BGA package's stencil to do it.
@@12voltvidshow are mitsubishi vcrs for capcitors i have one from 2002 andnit hasnt failed me once but we had a mitsubishi svsh in 1989 it was terrible it may have had a defective trick playback board like the one you fixed but it was always going in for issues.
@@12voltvids i think are first one was a bad year and it may have had that trick playback board like you removed in one video but are shop was stupid i think all they did was clean it and throw it back at us but i love my mitsubishi svhs 2002 i still use it for playback its so depenable ive only had to clean it twice indont mess with it since it keeps working
@@12voltvids are first one was 1989 which seems to be a bad year the one frlm 2002 is a work horse way back it did lotd of recording from the sattelite always a solid machine.
Honestly, the only flatscreen TVs in my parents house are insignias, just by coincidence. Both were from from different people, one broken, one working. Both free. Redid the ground joints on the hdmi port on the broken one and cleaned the port, and that fixed it, and that TV is from 2007. Although the buttons on the side are broken, when the TV is one it does a random choice of one of the buttons on the side (ex pressing power while its on will open input settings, change volume, change channel). Couldnt be bothered to fix that when a remote is $8
I've got an older Haier 37in LCD TV here. After 15 minutes the left half of the screen goes all garbage, Switch off let it cool, and then it's okay until it warms up. Right half of screen still shows a good picture. I'm thinking it's a problem with the panel itself.
Good to satisfy your curiosity and see if it could be a QUICK FIX. How about your CAT ? I haven't see it in your recent videos. I am surprised that you re-assembled without taking your spare parts. I usually grab stuff like speakers and valuable components.
Good check for easy problems before sending it to the recycling. I usually send failed devices to recycling as well, but decided to keep the last two failed items for potential spare parts, a fiber optic router and 12v car battery charger. Router has at least perfectly working 12v power supply, something else failed in it as it couldn't connect to internet anymore. Car battery charger never worked at all, no sign of life, led stays off, no power output to the battery, but couldn't return it for warranty, as I bought it in 2021, kept it in storage just in case I'd need it, then tried it now at the beginning of this year for my extra 12v battery, and found out it doesn't work. Had to buy new smart charger (for agm batteries) and tested it immediatly, it works. Dead charger has at least good spare cables, and perhaps some components at the pcb are still ok. Fuse was intact, so wasn't that easy problem.
1:10 - Peak editing. LMAO
I could use the monkey business one but that would upset 1 or 2 people. Came up on a feed the other day, monkeys climbing power poles. Lets just say they got a bigger jolt than t he bird did and it didn't end well for the monkey or all his friend that folllowed.
18 years for a florescent tube, that's really good. I don't miss incandescent bulbs; the ones in the house that got turned on and off a lot, like a hallway light, would burn out after a couple months, and always at night, LOL. I remember those florescent desk lamps with the button you held down to turn on.
One of the 42 watt cfl bulbs in the work shop just burned our. It was installed in 2002. I did have to fix it once or twice, bad connections on inverter board. It finally quit last year. Don't know how many hours on it but quite a few. It runs whenever I am working in the shop and it on for probably 10 to 15 hours a week.
@12voltvids I remember the first time I saw compact florescent bulbs, it was at my local Home Depot, around 1993. Reading the specs on the box, I thought, cool, I've got to try them. 15 or 20 watts for the same brightness as a 60 or 75 watt incandescent bulb, and 5+ years average life instead of 1100 hours. It was a win-win to me. I went all cfl until the LED bulbs came out and became affordable, around the late-2000's.
By the way, modern video codecs are FPS dependent. They have coefficients based on the FPS. If you try to change the FPS without re-encoding it, the file will be corrupt. I learned it the hard way. Codecs use this for example to blur parts of images of fast movement that the eye cannot see. This is one thing why modern video codecs are so much more efficient in terms of the amount of data needed to represent the video. When you change the FPS of a video, you have to re-encode it. This is why I always capture in ridiculously high bitrates (actually just a visually lossless setting like CRF 14 or so) to have a high quality encoding after editing.
Thanks Dave.
Did You check the output voltages of the Power Supply ??
That Board looked bent/warped Could the Screw have put to much pressure on the Heat sink to crack the Board ?
Mike M.
Yes 5.1,. 12.4, 23.9
Insignia Best Buy's cheap Chinese made TV. Some were made by Samsung & Westinghouse back when they first started.
I had a 32-inch Dynex TV which actually had an LG panel inside, nice suprise!
How even the OSD tiles are corrupted, I think it might be PSU related as well. I think there's more than one thing wrong with this poor old thing.
OSD also goes through TCON. Its either main board or tcon. Both have the same solution, a trip to recycle center.
My 15 year old toshiba regza lcd 47” has developed an odd problem. When first turned on the right side has fold over with 4 horizontal lines. This only affects the right side of the screen, the horizontal lines went across the screen. After about 15-20 minutes the problem disappears giving a normal picture. Once in awhile the cold startup gets a red, dark screen that goes away after time also eventually a good picture.
A TV with Samxon caps... Next!
the tv i got was a Samsung LE46B550 LCD TV looks very clean but is hevery
Hey I had a question about a vcr, my vcr is a gold star gvp c125, and when I put in a tape the motor head spins and then the lights turn on, but when I put a tape in it, the motor whirs and the head spins but the pinchers don’t grab the tape nor does it eject when it is not functioning. Do you think this is a mode switch problem or what could I do to help it? -A friendly vcr enthusiast
Don't know. Don't know which chassis that one has.
I have one of those .. I feel offended now :)
I have 2
I think it is the Gamma IC shorted on the T-Con board that is causing this issue.
That's what failed on my Sony xbr
4:33 - Nope. This thing is done for. It most likely cracked a BGA solder joint. Good luck fixing that. Baking doesn't help long term. It needs to be reballed properly. And almost nobody got the tools for that because you need the exact BGA package's stencil to do it.
Old Dave is known for his fearsome furnace fighting skills.
Jack of all trades.
@@12voltvidshow are mitsubishi vcrs for capcitors i have one from 2002 andnit hasnt failed me once but we had a mitsubishi svsh in 1989 it was terrible it may have had a defective trick playback board like the one you fixed but it was always going in for issues.
@@stpworld Misubishi had some good years and bad years. They had a ton of power supply leaky cap issues and this was on linear power supplies.
@@12voltvids i think are first one was a bad year and it may have had that trick playback board like you removed in one video but are shop was stupid i think all they did was clean it and throw it back at us but i love my mitsubishi svhs 2002 i still use it for playback its so depenable ive only had to clean it twice indont mess with it since it keeps working
@@12voltvids are first one was 1989 which seems to be a bad year the one frlm 2002 is a work horse way back it did lotd of recording from the sattelite always a solid machine.
Unfortunately, we have power interruptions, so we couldn't keep florescent lights burning non-stop. Interesting though. And interesting TV .
Honestly, the only flatscreen TVs in my parents house are insignias, just by coincidence. Both were from from different people, one broken, one working. Both free. Redid the ground joints on the hdmi port on the broken one and cleaned the port, and that fixed it, and that TV is from 2007. Although the buttons on the side are broken, when the TV is one it does a random choice of one of the buttons on the side (ex pressing power while its on will open input settings, change volume, change channel). Couldnt be bothered to fix that when a remote is $8
I've got an older Haier 37in LCD TV here. After 15 minutes the left half of the screen goes all garbage, Switch off let it cool, and then it's okay until it warms up. Right half of screen still shows a good picture. I'm thinking it's a problem with the panel itself.
Tcon board. could be the fpc from tcon to panel.
Good to satisfy your curiosity and see if it could be a QUICK FIX. How about your CAT ? I haven't see it in your recent videos. I am surprised that you re-assembled without taking your spare parts. I usually grab stuff like speakers and valuable components.
3 cats sitting next to me but not that close right now.
Good check for easy problems before sending it to the recycling.
I usually send failed devices to recycling as well, but decided to keep the last two failed items for potential spare parts, a fiber optic router and 12v car battery charger. Router has at least perfectly working 12v power supply, something else failed in it as it couldn't connect to internet anymore.
Car battery charger never worked at all, no sign of life, led stays off, no power output to the battery, but couldn't return it for warranty, as I bought it in 2021, kept it in storage just in case I'd need it, then tried it now at the beginning of this year for my extra 12v battery, and found out it doesn't work.
Had to buy new smart charger (for agm batteries) and tested it immediatly, it works.
Dead charger has at least good spare cables, and perhaps some components at the pcb are still ok. Fuse was intact, so wasn't that easy problem.
You forgot to take the PSU out of the TV!
Not everything happens on camera
I saw a 46-inch Samsung lcd tv come up near me for free I hope to get it at the weekend when its ready.
You have a new heat gun for what I remember... in my opinion it's worth trying to reflow what appears to be a BGA CPU chip under that heat sink.
More than likely the tcon board.
It's not a bga, it's a flat pack.
@@12voltvids so you did not give up.
It's the tcon board.
@@12voltvids I think I've got it, it's the tcon board !
Wafers and tcon boards, who doesn't like that for breakfast.
Do I dare tempt repairs at a hisense 85" tv? No back light 😅
You're braver than me.