Have you ever fallen foul of a locked-up wheel? Is great power nothing without great responsibility? Let us know your powerful brake experiences below 👇
Got some arthritis in my index finger which starts to hurt after an hour or two of driving, so yes please, more braking power means less load on my finger joints!
As long as the brake isn't grabby and the power increases progressively then I don't think you can have too much power... more power = lighter finger feel. Used to think my V-brakes had loads of power (seems ridiculous now 😆) but my fingers had to work so much harder to achieve it!
@@elrictdb what brand are you using? Shimano seems be be best known for being more grabby. I have maguras at the moment and really like them I'm also using the cheapest leavers they do that have the plastic carbotecture construction which has some flex in it. Seems to help with modulating the power... plus they don't make your fingers as cold as aluminium leavers. You could also drop a rotor size to increase modulation.
Tested the Maven brakes on an enduro bike last week at my local dealer. Didn't like the initial amount of hand power required to activate the levers. Overly heavy return spring in the levers was the issue. Staying with Codes on my Levo SL (Gen 2).
That's some very valuable insight, thank you for sharing! What makes great brakes really powerfull is how little force is dampened in the springs and seals. And now I see SRAM did only part of their homework, stiffening the calipers and (most probably) switching to lighter seals for mineral oil.
Nice info, no comparison anywhere so far, only most powerfull brakes.....SRAM mada. I want to see some values against other top brakes (Saint, Codes, MT7, Trickshots etc...)
When talking about 'too much of braking power', you guys often forget there are bigger riders out there. We are not all 170cm, 65kg people. At my 191cm, 110ish kg, more is better :)
In terms of the SRAM Maven, I dont believe there to be too much power for braking. Going back to previous braking standards, some may believe that rim brakes are powerful enough. When looking at the flagship series from a brake manufacturer, I wouldnt be suprised to see improvements each year. The new caliper design looks like an older Shimano M810 Saint Caliper. They too said the same thing back in the day! 50% more power! You will be fighting for traction with these brakes.
So long as the brakes aren't functioning as a light switch (off/on), are easy to progressively apply actuation, then by all means I'd like a lot of stopping power. Why not be able to slow a speeding bicycle on wild descents without fade or failure? I'd like the sort of power that rips the spokes out of my wheel without fading..... if I request it. 😜 The increased mass of the calipers and master cylinder can be slightly offset by reducing rotor size.
@gmbntech it's a 2013 XTC 29er with Mavic crossmax st hoops, Renthal carbon bars, Thompson elite seat post, Titanium railed saddle, Thompson stem, Cane Creek angle headset. It's weight is actually pretty light for what it is lol
D.O.T. stand for 'Department of Transport' and for bonus points the numbers refer to dry/wet boiling points - the higher the DOT number the higher the boiling point.
Department of transportation, as for the mavens I do want to try them. I have code rsc’s currently and have very few complaints. Maybe the Mavens really are better for me. Hopefully I’ll find out at Sea Otter. 😁
Sadly sram's marketing was a bit misleading. They are actually very fatiguing because they initially need 780 grams to pull the lever. This is a lot more than other brakes. Some only take 120 gr, most Take about 400gr. What sram shows with less power was later on in the pull motion. After the high force in the start you then later need less force fore braking compared to other brakes. However this approach is very fatiguing. Watch dale stone's review of them.
They'll function every bit as good as "useful" brakes, but with another level of available power if requested. Also the ability to eliminate fading is a plus.
some brake oils have a much higher boiling point than DOT fluid. I use sunflower seed derived brake oil which has a boiling point just under 300°C. and it's 100% biodegradable. DOT is hygroscopic, and once moisturized, the boiling point drops down to 120°C or so...
I was lucky to pick up the Van Halen version and after setting them up to my liking on a 50mm rise bar and after around 100 miles my conclusion is that Maven is the best breaks on todays market. No fatigue good modulation with insane stop power and they look cool which for many is very important. BTW this is my opinion others may have another.
1) I'm a big fan of the Crankbrother BOA shoes - have a set that are beat up as hell but still wearing them! I will be investng in a new pair soon. 2) Not liking my SRAM DB8 brakes that came on my Mondraker Crafty R....but my Code RSC were fabulous on my Nukeproof Mega. Not sure if it's the Mineral Oil thing on the DB8's that I don't like - just seems weak by comparison, even though I'm able to use the Same Sintered Pads in either model. Maybe the other difference is the issue - Codes + SRAM HS2 rotors (thinker) and DB8's + SRAM Centrelines (even thought they are larger diameter...)
Getting back to Standards, They need to go to a standard way of bleeding brakes. There is no reason there should be 1000 ways to bleed a hydraulic system. Once the lever has been bleed, the rest should be easy.
IF you use DOT 5 brake fluid then you know that it absorbs moisture over time, reducing braking effect. It also causes any steel components in the braking system to rust. Another downside is that it easily strips paint to bare metal. I researched alternatives and found a military spec brake fluid called Automech. It is virtually a lifetime brake fluid that is designed to be left in braking systems forever as it doesn't absorb moisture and it doesn't strip paint. It also has a very high boiling point. I use it in my kit-car. Nearly every year I found myself having to replace the rear brake cylinders and clutch slave cylinder. After switching to Automech fluid, I cannot recall when I last changed the cylinders or bled the brakes. It's not cheap but well worth it, especially if you've paid £300+ for your brakes!
I had a 6 pot hope caliper from jones at dirt mag (who?😅) it was on the rear of my titanium hard tail. Even banked over, it would pull the bike upright
As a car mechanic I've never liked the DOT, is very corrosive, the litliest drop will make your skin red and I don't even talk if it gets in the eye. And it will remove paint or make rust averything it touches.
for the longest time, ive used shimano XT with 180mm rotor. my newest bike came with hayes dominion A4 with 203mm rotor. i am still getting used to these, nearly endoing several times on steep descents.
Brake fade or lack of crispness on longer cable runs is still a problem that also eludes the Mavens which I saw first hand on a Commencal Meta 1 yesterday . The low boiling point of mineral oil is still a problem with Maxima . This brake set is "TOO HEAVY" .
@@45graham45 Some manufacturers treat them as cable lines as they take up similar space and are organised in much the same way as mechanical brake lines .
I went from Code RS to TRP Evo DHR brakes, and, along with 220 up front and 200 rear rotor, I have more than enough stopping power and consistency. No plans to move over to the new Sram
Yes, give me all the stopping power possible, just make so I can modulate it. Some of us like to go as fast as possible between points a and b, and need to shed speed quickly. Better brakes make for faster riding. Definitely not for everybody though.
#AskGMBNTech My bike currently has two piston disc brakes with resin pads (Shimano MT4100, 180mm rotors) and at some point they'll probably need upgrading. I don't mind the size of the rotors but if I were to upgrade the calipers and levers, should I aim for four piston resin, two pistons sintered or just go all out for four piston sintered assuming there's something compatible with that rotor size?
#askgmbntech i recently upgraded my rotor from 160 to Shimano 203 rotor and now it is rattling between the pads when hitting bumps or curbs because the 203 is not as stiff , what can I do to stop it from rattling?
I have zero use for SRAM brake levers and calipers. Granted, the only such I have experience with are the execrable Guide Ts. Shimano or Hope for me, until the end. I'm a pretty big guy, 280 lbs, and my bikes aren't super light. I hate 160mm rotors, no clue what the point of them is (unfortunately 180s don't fit in the frame of my gravel bike). But I don't see myself going higher than 203mm front and rear on my regular bikes, especially with XT or similar brakes. I do have 223 f/r on my e-bike though. If you're fat like me, I don't think there's such a thing as too powerful of a brake. But braking is a skill and you can get better at it. I have.
It's been said that once the ultimate Mavins stock runs out there will be no more I've looked on a stack of sites, there are all sold out Also the DOT = Department of Transportation. It's amazing how long the standards have been around 1918 ish🤔
Do those brakes feel as spongy and in need of bleeding as the rest of the sram brake lineup? Great to see they've gone from DOT fluid, it's overkill on bikes and so much more of a hassle
Despite being advised by #GMBNTECH to not upgrade my Voodoo hard tail and to buy a full sus bike instead, I did it anyway 😁. I have now built a Voodoo Bantu with hollowtech BB, Shimano 30t SLX crank set, 9 speed 50/12t Box Compents drive train, Rockshox 150mm hydraulic dropper, Suntour Expixon 120mm air fork, and Maxxis DHR2 2.4 rear with Schwalbe Magic Marry 2.4 front both tubliss with Peatys sealant. I freeking love it!! But after having decent one of my favourite ebike decents on the newly tweeked Bantu, I really need my brakes to be 150% better. I could have stopped faster by jamming my foot in the front wheel 😂 Recommendations please 🙏😁
Ask any XC rider, brakes can easily be at least unnecessary powerful, often too powerful. After some time in red you hardly know anything about modulation anymore
Absolutely you can’t just say the most powerful brakes are the best if there is no modulation that’s as bad as lack of power you gotta remember just like anything but especially on a mountain bike your never going to stop on a dime it’s going to take time & space to stop can you imagine if you just slammed on the brakes you’d be on the ground quick.
never be to powerful imo, lets remember the old v brakes etc we had a time to adjust to the power increase think it will be same for these new brakes :) love the content as always
Have seen somebody already swap the levers out for Lewis as they felt the levers were too stiff. I might be the only one but I think that caliper is the ugliest caliper I have ever seen. Not that you buy brakes for that reason, just couldn't help thinking it!
@gmbntech I'm sure it is when all shiny and in the flesh. Just looks a bit frankenstein in shape compared to most calipers. The Magura 4 pot calipers are the prettiest to look at, that single piece of aluminium, same reason macbooks are the prettiest laptops
It really isn’t a power issue. Can you overcome the tire grip with your brakes? Then they’re powerful enough. I suspect Any entry level hydraulic brakes with 140mm rotors are enough to overcome the grip of even the burliest DH bikes. On a related note, more “disk surface area” doesn’t translate in any way to more braking power, and the usual myth that rotor equals more torque, while theoretically true, is rendered moot by the fact that smaller rotors would stop you all the same anyway. The only reason why you want bigger brakes is heat management, and to some extent, brake lever feel. Don’t get me wrong, those are very very important characteristics and they may well warrant fitting big bikes with big brakes. But this “brake power” myth really needs to die, especially from an otherwise top notch publication such as gmbn. Look up the “driving 4 answers” channel here on RUclips with their videos on “big brakes”, 99 percent of it is relevant to biking.
Have you ever fallen foul of a locked-up wheel? Is great power nothing without great responsibility? Let us know your powerful brake experiences below 👇
Nope, I've experienced tons of traction failures but that's more the rider and tires issue 😂
Got some arthritis in my index finger which starts to hurt after an hour or two of driving, so yes please, more braking power means less load on my finger joints!
As long as the brake isn't grabby and the power increases progressively then I don't think you can have too much power... more power = lighter finger feel. Used to think my V-brakes had loads of power (seems ridiculous now 😆) but my fingers had to work so much harder to achieve it!
I can't even feather low power brakes with any finesse. 50% extra power will make me 50% worse.
@@elrictdb what brand are you using? Shimano seems be be best known for being more grabby. I have maguras at the moment and really like them I'm also using the cheapest leavers they do that have the plastic carbotecture construction which has some flex in it. Seems to help with modulating the power... plus they don't make your fingers as cold as aluminium leavers. You could also drop a rotor size to increase modulation.
The fact that the base version is called Bronze Maven and not Iron Maven is a huge shame...
Best comment 👏🏼
The red color looks like Eddie Van Maven😅
@@MikeNolan_Councilmansomeobody is far too easily pleased.
Up the irons. 🤘
@@johndef5075Should be called the 5150 edition
Tested the Maven brakes on an enduro bike last week at my local dealer. Didn't like the initial amount of hand power required to activate the levers. Overly heavy return spring in the levers was the issue. Staying with Codes on my Levo SL (Gen 2).
That's some very valuable insight, thank you for sharing! What makes great brakes really powerfull is how little force is dampened in the springs and seals. And now I see SRAM did only part of their homework, stiffening the calipers and (most probably) switching to lighter seals for mineral oil.
Nice info, no comparison anywhere so far, only most powerfull brakes.....SRAM mada. I want to see some values against other top brakes (Saint, Codes, MT7, Trickshots etc...)
I’ve watched another video review and they said the same thing!🤙🏻
When talking about 'too much of braking power', you guys often forget there are bigger riders out there. We are not all 170cm, 65kg people. At my 191cm, 110ish kg, more is better :)
DOT oil gets its name from „Department of Transportation“.
In terms of the SRAM Maven, I dont believe there to be too much power for braking. Going back to previous braking standards, some may believe that rim brakes are powerful enough. When looking at the flagship series from a brake manufacturer, I wouldnt be suprised to see improvements each year. The new caliper design looks like an older Shimano M810 Saint Caliper. They too said the same thing back in the day! 50% more power! You will be fighting for traction with these brakes.
So long as the brakes aren't functioning as a light switch (off/on), are easy to progressively apply actuation, then by all means I'd like a lot of stopping power. Why not be able to slow a speeding bicycle on wild descents without fade or failure? I'd like the sort of power that rips the spokes out of my wheel without fading..... if I request it. 😜
The increased mass of the calipers and master cylinder can be slightly offset by reducing rotor size.
I went way overkill on my XC bike, went from 120mm to , 180mm front and 160mm in the rear on Shimano XT trail brakes, absolutely no complaints!
That'll add a few grams, sometimes it's better to have more stopping power for when you need it though 🤙
@gmbntech it's a 2013 XTC 29er with Mavic crossmax st hoops, Renthal carbon bars, Thompson elite seat post, Titanium railed saddle, Thompson stem, Cane Creek angle headset. It's weight is actually pretty light for what it is lol
D.O.T. stand for 'Department of Transport' and for bonus points the numbers refer to dry/wet boiling points - the higher the DOT number the higher the boiling point.
If i was upgrading brakes I would go with Hope , but very happy with XT
Owen is such a mechanic 😂 talking about how difficult these new components will be to set up.
Department of transportation, as for the mavens I do want to try them. I have code rsc’s currently and have very few complaints. Maybe the Mavens really are better for me. Hopefully I’ll find out at Sea Otter. 😁
The naked Trek looked like it had a lovely old Titec Ali post like what I had on my 1999 Superlight😊
No, brakes can't be too powerful. Who doesn't like one finger brakimg and less fatigue on long descents? #gmbntech
Aye alright.
Sadly sram's marketing was a bit misleading. They are actually very fatiguing because they initially need 780 grams to pull the lever. This is a lot more than other brakes. Some only take 120 gr, most Take about 400gr.
What sram shows with less power was later on in the pull motion. After the high force in the start you then later need less force fore braking compared to other brakes. However this approach is very fatiguing.
Watch dale stone's review of them.
Commented on the post about this rater then below in the comment section 🙈🙈 D.O.T. Stands for Department of Transportation. Love the show!!
Useless for 99% of riders… but high level athletes will enjoy them!
I'll be putting the mavens on mine
They'll function every bit as good as "useful" brakes, but with another level of available power if requested. Also the ability to eliminate fading is a plus.
some brake oils have a much higher boiling point than DOT fluid. I use sunflower seed derived brake oil which has a boiling point just under 300°C. and it's 100% biodegradable. DOT is hygroscopic, and once moisturized, the boiling point drops down to 120°C or so...
I was lucky to pick up the Van Halen version and after setting them up to my liking on a 50mm rise bar and after around 100 miles my conclusion is that Maven is the best breaks on todays market.
No fatigue good modulation with insane stop power and they look cool which for many is very important.
BTW this is my opinion others may have another.
1) I'm a big fan of the Crankbrother BOA shoes - have a set that are beat up as hell but still wearing them! I will be investng in a new pair soon.
2) Not liking my SRAM DB8 brakes that came on my Mondraker Crafty R....but my Code RSC were fabulous on my Nukeproof Mega. Not sure if it's the Mineral Oil thing on the DB8's that I don't like - just seems weak by comparison, even though I'm able to use the Same Sintered Pads in either model. Maybe the other difference is the issue - Codes + SRAM HS2 rotors (thinker) and DB8's + SRAM Centrelines (even thought they are larger diameter...)
Seems like someone that worked at YT went to canyon....somehow that spectral look the same as the jeffsy 🤔🤔🤔
Getting back to Standards, They need to go to a standard way of bleeding brakes. There is no reason there should be 1000 ways to bleed a hydraulic system. Once the lever has been bleed, the rest should be easy.
If You upgrade your brakes that much power, you would have to get a tire that can handle that much power if you cant, the brakes would be a downgrade.
IF you use DOT 5 brake fluid then you know that it absorbs moisture over time, reducing braking effect. It also causes any steel components in the braking system to rust. Another downside is that it easily strips paint to bare metal. I researched alternatives and found a military spec brake fluid called Automech. It is virtually a lifetime brake fluid that is designed to be left in braking systems forever as it doesn't absorb moisture and it doesn't strip paint. It also has a very high boiling point. I use it in my kit-car. Nearly every year I found myself having to replace the rear brake cylinders and clutch slave cylinder. After switching to Automech fluid, I cannot recall when I last changed the cylinders or bled the brakes. It's not cheap but well worth it, especially if you've paid £300+ for your brakes!
Right on. The #1 reason I would prefer mineral oil is the corrosive nature of DOT brake fluids.
I had a 6 pot hope caliper from jones at dirt mag (who?😅) it was on the rear of my titanium hard tail. Even banked over, it would pull the bike upright
I'm gonna go ahead and say I like DOT more than mineral oil. Mineral oil is so much harder to clean off parts imho
As a car mechanic I've never liked the DOT, is very corrosive, the litliest drop will make your skin red and I don't even talk if it gets in the eye.
And it will remove paint or make rust averything it touches.
@@ulukai_555With brake fluids , there is obviously no clear winner unfortunately .
DOT stands for Department of Transport.. I think, I hope I heard it right. Good video!
DOT = Department of Transportation here in the US. Love the show, and the gear I picked up from your store! #quiztime
DOT - Department of Transportation. The 4.1 or 4.2 at the end, I believe, is to do with the viscosity of the oil??? Owen can correct if I'm wrong
for the longest time, ive used shimano XT with 180mm rotor. my newest bike came with hayes dominion A4 with 203mm rotor. i am still getting used to these, nearly endoing several times on steep descents.
That's a good jump in stopping power, do you prefer them? Or still getting used to them?
@@gmbntech it's unfair to compare my 9yr old XTs to my brand new Dominion A4s :) i really love the A4s, just have to get used to them.
I’m not an aggressive enough rider for more powerful brakes. But I could see how others might need them
I'd like to try the Mavens. I'm just so thrilled with my new Shiguras!
I did my shiguras last week, I'll be honest, they are good but pretty much like my m7120, rotors are better than Shimanos thou.
Seams worst move from DOT to mineral oil. Dot brakes dont absorb moisture when its sealed.
Brake fade or lack of crispness on longer cable runs is still a problem that also eludes the Mavens which I saw first hand on a Commencal Meta 1 yesterday . The low boiling point of mineral oil is still a problem with Maxima . This brake set is "TOO HEAVY" .
What's a cable run?
@@45graham45 The length of hydraulic brake hose between the caliper and lever reservoir
@@robertmcfadyen9156 Ah right. Well these brakes use hoses rather than cables - they're hydraulic.
@@45graham45 Some manufacturers treat them as cable lines as they take up similar space and are organised in much the same way as mechanical brake lines .
I went from Code RS to TRP Evo DHR brakes, and, along with 220 up front and 200 rear rotor, I have more than enough stopping power and consistency. No plans to move over to the new Sram
Interestingly, the only brakes with which I ever had problems with overheating were SRAM with DOT fluid.
Blimey, those levers are huge!😳
The levers are almost the same size as Code fives .
Yes, give me all the stopping power possible, just make so I can modulate it. Some of us like to go as fast as possible between points a and b, and need to shed speed quickly. Better brakes make for faster riding. Definitely not for everybody though.
If you can modulate the power then it's great, but more stopping power means more skids/wash outs if you can't! 🤘
#AskGMBNTech My bike currently has two piston disc brakes with resin pads (Shimano MT4100, 180mm rotors) and at some point they'll probably need upgrading. I don't mind the size of the rotors but if I were to upgrade the calipers and levers, should I aim for four piston resin, two pistons sintered or just go all out for four piston sintered assuming there's something compatible with that rotor size?
#askgmbntech i recently upgraded my rotor from 160 to Shimano 203 rotor and now it is rattling between the pads when hitting bumps or curbs because the 203 is not as stiff , what can I do to stop it from rattling?
I have zero use for SRAM brake levers and calipers. Granted, the only such I have experience with are the execrable Guide Ts. Shimano or Hope for me, until the end. I'm a pretty big guy, 280 lbs, and my bikes aren't super light. I hate 160mm rotors, no clue what the point of them is (unfortunately 180s don't fit in the frame of my gravel bike). But I don't see myself going higher than 203mm front and rear on my regular bikes, especially with XT or similar brakes. I do have 223 f/r on my e-bike though. If you're fat like me, I don't think there's such a thing as too powerful of a brake. But braking is a skill and you can get better at it. I have.
It's been said that once the ultimate Mavins stock runs out there will be no more
I've looked on a stack of sites, there are all sold out
Also the DOT = Department of Transportation. It's amazing how long the standards have been around 1918 ish🤔
For those of us that have hand arthritis, this is a great thing.
Interesting we didn't think of that!
Do those brakes feel as spongy and in need of bleeding as the rest of the sram brake lineup? Great to see they've gone from DOT fluid, it's overkill on bikes and so much more of a hassle
Despite being advised by #GMBNTECH to not upgrade my Voodoo hard tail and to buy a full sus bike instead, I did it anyway 😁. I have now built a Voodoo Bantu with hollowtech BB, Shimano 30t SLX crank set, 9 speed 50/12t Box Compents drive train, Rockshox 150mm hydraulic dropper, Suntour Expixon 120mm air fork, and Maxxis DHR2 2.4 rear with Schwalbe Magic Marry 2.4 front both tubliss with Peatys sealant. I freeking love it!! But after having decent one of my favourite ebike decents on the newly tweeked Bantu, I really need my brakes to be 150% better. I could have stopped faster by jamming my foot in the front wheel 😂
Recommendations please 🙏😁
Any shimano brakes deore and up is good, i have 4 pot slx and they are awesome
Ask any XC rider, brakes can easily be at least unnecessary powerful, often too powerful. After some time in red you hardly know anything about modulation anymore
Norco just launched two new bikes this week, will you talk about them next week?
Miineral is more expensive, as you can buy DOT in every shop which has automotive or morbike parts for far less.
#quiz D.O.T. stands for Department Of Transpostation. The U.S. one!
50% more powerful than codes. I believe that's on par with shimano
#quiztime - Department of Transportation
DOT is American Department of Transportation certified.
DOT means Department of Transportation
Try a Deore M6100 on a 20" folding bike with 160 mm rotors, properly bedded.... then GRIP it...
Ultimate power 😤
considering my weight and having a relatively heavy bike, I can't wait to install the Mavens this weekend!!
Let us know what you think of them 👀
People debated this when V-Brakes became a thing...
I want to fit them on my new Simplon Rapcon pmax pinion. That thing weighs 26 kg and I'm not of light fit either.
These brake should be great for eBikes! Tell us how it goes if you do end up taking the plunge 🤘
DOT is short for Department of Transportation.
DOT stands for Departement of Transport
#Quiz Department Of Transport 🤟🏼
The more powerful brakes are, the more tyre wears?
Only if you're skidding everywhere 💨
Great show guys 👌
Thank you!
Absolutely you can’t just say the most powerful brakes are the best if there is no modulation that’s as bad as lack of power you gotta remember just like anything but especially on a mountain bike your never going to stop on a dime it’s going to take time & space to stop can you imagine if you just slammed on the brakes you’d be on the ground quick.
never be to powerful imo, lets remember the old v brakes etc we had a time to adjust to the power increase think it will be same for these new brakes :) love the content as always
I bet sram will bring out mavens using dot fluid next year with 1000% power increase for 500 bucks
i am waiting for someone to mismatch them with shimano brakes to make sramano or shisramno like with shigura
Quanto custa o freio da esran
#askgmbn how is ti possible to gost shift with internal routing?😊
Have seen somebody already swap the levers out for Lewis as they felt the levers were too stiff. I might be the only one but I think that caliper is the ugliest caliper I have ever seen. Not that you buy brakes for that reason, just couldn't help thinking it!
They are chunky! But very nice to look at in person 🤘
@gmbntech I'm sure it is when all shiny and in the flesh. Just looks a bit frankenstein in shape compared to most calipers. The Magura 4 pot calipers are the prettiest to look at, that single piece of aluminium, same reason macbooks are the prettiest laptops
240 pounds here i always need more brake power
DOT = US Department of Transportation
DOT = Department of Transportation
Maven brakes ideal for fat knackers on ebikes to rip trails to bits and create braking bumps quicker
DOT = Department Of Transportation. DOT brake fluid conforms to automotive standards.
Dept of transportation
There is no H in SRAM.
DOT = "Daft Ole Tat"
It really isn’t a power issue. Can you overcome the tire grip with your brakes? Then they’re powerful enough. I suspect Any entry level hydraulic brakes with 140mm rotors are enough to overcome the grip of even the burliest DH bikes. On a related note, more “disk surface area” doesn’t translate in any way to more braking power, and the usual myth that rotor equals more torque, while theoretically true, is rendered moot by the fact that smaller rotors would stop you all the same anyway.
The only reason why you want bigger brakes is heat management, and to some extent, brake lever feel. Don’t get me wrong, those are very very important characteristics and they may well warrant fitting big bikes with big brakes. But this “brake power” myth really needs to die, especially from an otherwise top notch publication such as gmbn.
Look up the “driving 4 answers” channel here on RUclips with their videos on “big brakes”, 99 percent of it is relevant to biking.
#quiz. Department of transport
DOT.. Department of Transportation
My thoughts on the SRAM brakes? Overpriced. Overengineered. Pure money grab.
#quiz Department of Transportation
Department of transport
Department of transportation.
Department of transportation
Pfffft!
Department of Transportation - DOT
#Quiz Answer D.O.T. Department of Transportation🚵