It is indeed true that they leave a gap between the outer cylinder head and the cylinder to make sure there is enough pressure on the combustion chamber.
It’s like time travel. I was hoping you were going to show the interior and where the piston lined up with the port floors. I know it’s in another video.
I do intend to get back to it. Initially I said I'd do it this year, but then I didn't know I was gonna crash and that my 2T was going to be so much trouble. I absolutely do plan to work on Project Tao Tao more, but I'm not making any promises of exactly when. It's been too long, that's for sure.
Possibly with the base gasket thickness. Could also mill the head or cylinder. Gotta be careful either way. I'm not really sure about milling a coated bore TBH. Another possibility would be to see if the 77cc head is any different. Possibly it could be used to boost compression.
@@49ccscoot thanks for the reply my guy! I have a MHR replica 70cc cylinder LC (aluminium, 2 ring piston) for piaggio engine. The base gasket that comes with it, is pretty thin and sadly no store in my country offers thiner gaskets. How could increase compression on this cylinder? Im thinking of milling the cylinder itself...
@@boostedhub Milling the base of the cylinder is another option. Could be used without a base gasket and a sealant only. If you do anything like milling the cylinder base, just make sure you are sure of what effect it's going to have on your port timing. There are calculators that can tell you that.
Can i ask a question sir? What is the effect of knowing the port timing/ duration using that tdc wheel? I have a jog z2 with 70cc cyclinder kit but its made in taiwan but im using airsal t6 cyclinder head. I want to know everything before i put that t6 single ring block. Thanks in advance for the answer. Love all your videos :)
And btw sir i do have polini cyclinder head using o ring i want to use it but it seems that it knocks when i put it on the taiwan block im planning to add more gasket at the bottom is it good?
@@middlechild3503 I use a degree wheel to find out what the actual port durations are. They have a spec in the manual, but that doesn't mean it will always end up there. Adding gaskets or spacers to the bottom of the cylinder will give you more squish clearance, but it also changes those port durations. More spacing will raise duration, which may move the powerband higher. Once again, checking duration with different spacing may be useful.
49ccScoot thank you sir for your reply and for sharing your knowledge. Btw one more question right now im using 2 head gasket for my scooter is that good for my head?
If we're talking about in a dream world, it would be a Gilera Runner with the 180cc two-stroke or maybe even the Aprilia SRV 850 if focused less on mods and more on actual riding. In the real world, I'd probably start with a Yamaha Zuma with the horizontal Minarelli, or maybe a Piaggio/Vespa with the Hi-Per2 engine or a Honda Elite/Dio to build a big stroker with.
90GTVert Thank you for the feedback, watching your videos has been a big help. I hope to have my 03 Zuma rebuilt with all the mods for next summer and bring it down to maybe take a ride in OC while your there.
So you are four thou off.. fully assemble the head and torque it down to spec. Check it again. And ditch the duct tape. If you are still off I would check the machine work you did to the cases.
Haven't watched the whole video but the initial installation of the circlip was poor in that the circlip ends should face 12 or 6 o clock. Plenty of 2-strokes have died due to the circlip flexing itself out of the groove due to inertia when the ends are placed at 3 or 9 o clock and then getting caught in the transfer port or coming up into the combustion chamber, destroying the cylinder wall, etc. I'm sure you've learned to do it right over the past 3 years but just commenting for the people who don't know yet.
Good catch. I knew that well before this. Been doing them at 12 or 6 basically since I started working on 2Ts. I watched that part again and thought I must have moved it later... but it doesn't look like I did. Odd. I even went as far as buying a specialty circlip installer when I got my RC1, because I don't like that I always wind up scuffing the piston otherwise and I think it's best if you don't fiddle with the clip anymore than you have to for it's integrity. I've installed a lot of circlips and I've never found an easy way that works every time without much effort for me, aside from the installer. I think some people (like me) lack the dexterity to do them easily so anything that streamlines the process and is a one and done attempt that flexes the clip less is cool with me.
Everything was checking out roughly to TPR's specs so I didn't bother. I usually spend the time on corrected and uncorrected compression ratio calculations when it's a setup that I'm less sure about.
![2 Stroke Tips & Tricks [Blowdown]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0-DJP04BLRg/mqdefault.jpg)
It is indeed true that they leave a gap between the outer cylinder head and the cylinder to make sure there is enough pressure on the combustion chamber.
Your learning keep it up bro
Nice build 💪🏻
It’s like time travel.
I was hoping you were going to show the interior and where the piston lined up with the port floors. I know it’s in another video.
i might be wrong here but did you forget to install the second piston circlip? or wasn't it shown on video? anyways, awesome videos!
This is a mock up. Didn't really have to install either of them for a mock up.
hello, how are you? how many degrees do you recommend for a 103cc
Is project tao tao going to return soon? I enjoyed those vids alot I think I've watched them all about 10 times XDD
I do intend to get back to it. Initially I said I'd do it this year, but then I didn't know I was gonna crash and that my 2T was going to be so much trouble. I absolutely do plan to work on Project Tao Tao more, but I'm not making any promises of exactly when. It's been too long, that's for sure.
Isso é um motor muito dez .Acho espetacular.
How can you increase compresion on this particular kit? Take material off the head or cylinder(since it is an O-ring type ceal)?
Possibly with the base gasket thickness. Could also mill the head or cylinder. Gotta be careful either way. I'm not really sure about milling a coated bore TBH. Another possibility would be to see if the 77cc head is any different. Possibly it could be used to boost compression.
@@49ccscoot thanks for the reply my guy! I have a MHR replica 70cc cylinder LC (aluminium, 2 ring piston) for piaggio engine. The base gasket that comes with it, is pretty thin and sadly no store in my country offers thiner gaskets. How could increase compression on this cylinder? Im thinking of milling the cylinder itself...
@@boostedhub Milling the base of the cylinder is another option. Could be used without a base gasket and a sealant only. If you do anything like milling the cylinder base, just make sure you are sure of what effect it's going to have on your port timing. There are calculators that can tell you that.
Can i ask a question sir? What is the effect of knowing the port timing/ duration using that tdc wheel? I have a jog z2 with 70cc cyclinder kit but its made in taiwan but im using airsal t6 cyclinder head. I want to know everything before i put that t6 single ring block. Thanks in advance for the answer. Love all your videos :)
And btw sir i do have polini cyclinder head using o ring i want to use it but it seems that it knocks when i put it on the taiwan block im planning to add more gasket at the bottom is it good?
@@middlechild3503 I use a degree wheel to find out what the actual port durations are. They have a spec in the manual, but that doesn't mean it will always end up there.
Adding gaskets or spacers to the bottom of the cylinder will give you more squish clearance, but it also changes those port durations. More spacing will raise duration, which may move the powerband higher. Once again, checking duration with different spacing may be useful.
49ccScoot thank you sir for your reply and for sharing your knowledge. Btw one more question right now im using 2 head gasket for my scooter is that good for my head?
@@middlechild3503 As long as they're sealing, it should be fine.
49ccScoot thank you sir. Godbless.
If you were going to pick out a scooter used or new for daily riding, mods and longer rides. What would you pick up
If we're talking about in a dream world, it would be a Gilera Runner with the 180cc two-stroke or maybe even the Aprilia SRV 850 if focused less on mods and more on actual riding. In the real world, I'd probably start with a Yamaha Zuma with the horizontal Minarelli, or maybe a Piaggio/Vespa with the Hi-Per2 engine or a Honda Elite/Dio to build a big stroker with.
90GTVert Thank you for the feedback, watching your videos has been a big help. I hope to have my 03 Zuma rebuilt with all the mods for next summer and bring it down to maybe take a ride in OC while your there.
@@sammie21613 Nice!
Would 197,5 degrees of exhaust duration be too much for a (50cc) street bike?
I would try 190/130 first if possible. You can run high durations and sometimes it works well, but that's a lot for a pure street setup.
@@49ccscoot anything above 190.25 is the best duration for any 2 ex port cylinder but one port cyls can go up to 200
So you are four thou off.. fully assemble the head and torque it down to spec. Check it again. And ditch the duct tape.
If you are still off I would check the machine work you did to the cases.
Why is the squish 1,1mm with the stock gasket?
I'd imagine the height of the cases could be slightly different or maybe they just err on the side of caution.
Haven't watched the whole video but the initial installation of the circlip was poor in that the circlip ends should face 12 or 6 o clock. Plenty of 2-strokes have died due to the circlip flexing itself out of the groove due to inertia when the ends are placed at 3 or 9 o clock and then getting caught in the transfer port or coming up into the combustion chamber, destroying the cylinder wall, etc. I'm sure you've learned to do it right over the past 3 years but just commenting for the people who don't know yet.
Good catch. I knew that well before this. Been doing them at 12 or 6 basically since I started working on 2Ts. I watched that part again and thought I must have moved it later... but it doesn't look like I did. Odd. I even went as far as buying a specialty circlip installer when I got my RC1, because I don't like that I always wind up scuffing the piston otherwise and I think it's best if you don't fiddle with the clip anymore than you have to for it's integrity. I've installed a lot of circlips and I've never found an easy way that works every time without much effort for me, aside from the installer. I think some people (like me) lack the dexterity to do them easily so anything that streamlines the process and is a one and done attempt that flexes the clip less is cool with me.
Why didnt you check the uccr?
Everything was checking out roughly to TPR's specs so I didn't bother. I usually spend the time on corrected and uncorrected compression ratio calculations when it's a setup that I'm less sure about.
@@49ccscoot Are you running pump gas?
@@claudeperron780 Yes. It's a street scooter so I use whatever premium is wherever I'm riding. Usually 91-93 (R+M)/2.