He should have explained that the fuze comes from the remains of an exploded shell. Still there can be toxic remains inside (especially lead and mercury which were used as main ingredients in primers)
Heating and cooling several times helps! Another option is to put the item in acetic acid for several days after heating and cooling... Attention (!), before heating a military item, make sure that it is safe from an accidental explosion, and also whether it will melt !
Dude... so much scarring from the tools. Use a softer approach, wanted to learn methods for cleaning my dutch ww1 fuse "Tijdschokbuis no.2", but it was not pretty to watch excessive force on such a fuse. Use a smaller hammer, learn to tap straight on. Scare it loose, torture is not often needed ;)
I don't know whether I have been lucky or what, but I have dismantled 2 '80s, 1 '85 and also a Dop 91 without having to resort to hammer and punch. I heated them all (not at the same time!) in my barbecue until they were glowing red hot. I then quenched them in a bucket of cold water and waited for a few minutes to get rid of residual heat. I drilled out the screws in the "skirt" and the nose cap and then whacked the fuse with a wooden mallet. so as not to mark the body. On each occasion with a little bit of of rotary persuasion ...hand only, the fuses came apart.
Robin March you get lucky sometimes, I've had the same thing and several occasions I've managed to get fuses apart without even hearing or hammering them, all depends on condition and how long they've been in the ground! glad you got yours apart
putting the punch directly into the hole and using it as a type of "leaver" (I think thats what your trying to say in your comment..) , that wouldn't work as it would act as another pin and lock the nose cone in place.. I can see where your coming from but doing it the way I do it may cause a little bit of damage however its by far the easiest way of getting the fuse apart.
Hi sorry for the late reply I've been away.. and yes it is quite common for the locking pins to break, some fuses never had any put in them- but still had the holes for them to fit into. sometimes there are no locking pins on the nose cone of the fuse either, like what you said about your fuse. thanks for commenting :)
yea it needs to be very hot, which makes the metal expand so when you cool it down quickly it returns to its normal size quicker which loosens the components.
i found one not long ago, but its all really dirty. any advice on cleaning before trying to disassemble it? any can i check somehow is the fuse burnt and safe to heat?
Not much of a tutorial, without telling why you do what you're doing, or even showing the little pieces. Not a word about how they work, no theory at all.
+Rick Autry This is what I call an "in the workshop" video so basically a video walk through on taking a fuse apart. If you would like more information, close ups on all components along with explanations and history please look at one of my "disassembly" videos which are done in full HD at my desk where all the components are clean and much easier to show and talk about. Thanks
I don’t get the drilling bit. Was there a seized grub-screw? Anyway. Next time reduce damage by putting a rod into the hole you drilled (as in bottom it out in the hole) then hit the rod - might help reduce scaring on the tip near the hole. There is also a ring in the base underneath that’s hard to get out.
Hi there. I have what I think is a type 80 fuze. It's in great nick and mostly disassembled but there's one bit I can't figure out. Can you help. I've got pics of al the bits.
I tried it like how I saw it on the turkisch fuze video, but I think I didn't made it hot enough. It was a No88 fuze. Nothing would budge...I'll try again then and make it hotter. Then a quick cool down?
hi evo,there was no screw i have now taken my fuse apart thanks to your great vids,the 2 little locking pins were not visible when i took the first piece off,i poked a dart down the holes and the pins appeared to be broken inside them,when i pried up the second bit 2 little ends came out of holes is this common for them to break, thanks to your vids i can now start looking at more of my fuse collection to strip.....keep em coming lol
Some dumb questions.... do these fuses contain any explosive material? How did they ignite the shell? And what is the goal of taking it apart? Just to clean up and keep as a relic? It does look beautiful cleaned up. And from reading the other comments, these are not uncommon finds. Is that just because there was so much shelling during WW1? I'd think WW2 stuff would be more common. Sometimes it's hard to wrap your head around WW1.
Is the fuse itself dangerous? I mean when you find it on a battlefield, is it dangerous to clean it? Was it made to explode or just to make the shell explode?
Dude, where'd get em from, ive been to the battlefields of the Somme, but all i find is peices of shrapnel, ive seen loads if these fuses, but they're always part of someones private collection, id love ti find one of these
@@norbertfleck812 I need to take a Metal Detector and go searching at night, most of the noxious ordanance has degraded by now and is little more than a harmless mineral deposit
THANK YOU. I found a shell fuse like this one in my grandfather's things several years ago (he passed away in 1966.) Mine is in perfect condition, easily unscrewed and taken apart. I didn't know it was BRASS tho!! I shall have to polish it up. Perfect paper weight.
Hello, Up until Sunday I had a fuse number 80 in good shape having freed off all the components (except 1) . Following my success of dismantling other fuses by first heating them in barbecue charcoal and quenching them in cold water I thought that I would further try the Fuse No 80 giving it the same treatment in an effort to remove a steel "cap" which was situated in the middle of the body and screwed in. In the usual way I had a pair of tongs at the ready to lift out the red hot piece but to my horror it had melted the fuse part from the copper timing ring. Brass apparently melts at 800 degrees and I am positive that my barby temp doesn't get that hot. The metal that had melted has the colour of gold. The only good thing regarding this is that the steel "cap" was recovered whole. Were their fuses manufactured out of inferior materials? or perhaps you can tell me why this happened to this one and not the others. Look forward to hearing from you.
Robin March do you happen to know what date the fuse was? Brass melts at over 900 degrees Celsius so this most likely happened because during the later years of the war the munitions factories were running out of brass so started to mix in other metals which will reduce the purity of the brass and affect things such as melting temperature and strength etc. most likely a late war fuse, I've seen this same thing happen to a friend with a German dopp fuse as both countries were running out of brass and effectively doing the same thing to stretch their resources
Ian salmons some of this stuffs been buried for almost a hundred years and is well siezed together, the heat and cooling process just loosens everything up. Metal strength isn’t an issue as its only going to be an ornament once its apart and cleaned up
Ian salmons I wouldn’t of said so, most likely just mild steel as it drills put relatively easy however the drill always moves into the softer brass which is the tricky part of drilling it nicely. its only a screw to stop the brass cone coming undone so i doubt they would go the effort of hardening them as they made so many millions, theres no actual blueprints saying it is or isn’t so I’m just judging on how easy they are to drill through.. Been a while since I’ve taken one apart though haha
Ian Smith still waiting for someone to actually come up with what these ‘proper tools’ are, other than that most people use what they have in the garage and they still do the job
Two pieces of wood with crescents cut into them would help you keep that tight in the vice. Of course … that piece was actually better before you took it apart and polished the living crap out of it. 😄
I watch a video on doing this the person who was dismantling the fuse lost the best part of his fingers and sight in one eye don't try this at home folks.
The heat created by the drill bit i presume. In Northern Ireland lots of people blew themselves up with pipe bombs screwing the cap on if powder was on the thread (friction). So I'm guessing that's what he meant
@@sammni After the fuze has done its job (some remains of the exploded shell were still attached to it) there is nothing left which could be dangerous - except for poisonous metals (lead etc.) or other toxic remains.
hi I am really interested in this fuse because on a school trip to belgum about ww1 we went to a trench and I purchased a grimy/ dirty fuse which originally had no info about it for 10 euros . I then did lots of research into how to clean it and have confirmed it to be a no.80 VII shell fuse, however now that I have it I want to get the rest of it. please help because I have no idea if there are different types of shell casing or not and/or where to get this/these? please help thanks :D images: i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/starrydad/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151112_125045_zpszbamrqsu.jpg i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/starrydad/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151112_125056_zpsgrpxu2iv.jpg i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/starrydad/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151112_125121_zpslqaucotx.jpg i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/starrydad/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151112_125210_zpsle4mcrxq.jpg i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/starrydad/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151112_125220_zpstcikiwhl.jpg
Knowing nothing about this, it looked comedically dangerous based on the title.
He should have explained that the fuze comes from the remains of an exploded shell.
Still there can be toxic remains inside (especially lead and mercury which were used as main ingredients in primers)
Heating and cooling several times helps! Another option is to put the item in acetic acid for several days after heating and cooling...
Attention (!), before heating a military item, make sure that it is safe from an accidental explosion, and also whether it will melt !
that was awosme. Its amazing to see the inside technology of such a simple this as a shell fuse. Very awsome video
Dude... so much scarring from the tools. Use a softer approach, wanted to learn methods for cleaning my dutch ww1 fuse "Tijdschokbuis no.2", but it was not pretty to watch excessive force on such a fuse. Use a smaller hammer, learn to tap straight on. Scare it loose, torture is not often needed ;)
I don't know whether I have been lucky or what, but I have dismantled 2 '80s, 1 '85 and also a Dop 91 without having to resort to hammer and punch. I heated them all (not at the same time!) in my barbecue until they were glowing red hot. I then quenched them in a bucket of cold water and waited for a few minutes to get rid of residual heat. I drilled out the screws in the "skirt" and the nose cap and then whacked the fuse with a wooden mallet. so as not to mark the body. On each occasion with a little bit of of rotary persuasion ...hand only, the fuses came apart.
Robin March you get lucky sometimes, I've had the same thing and several occasions I've managed to get fuses apart without even hearing or hammering them, all depends on condition and how long they've been in the ground! glad you got yours apart
putting the punch directly into the hole and using it as a type of "leaver" (I think thats what your trying to say in your comment..) , that wouldn't work as it would act as another pin and lock the nose cone in place.. I can see where your coming from but doing it the way I do it may cause a little bit of damage however its by far the easiest way of getting the fuse apart.
Hi sorry for the late reply I've been away.. and yes it is quite common for the locking pins to break, some fuses never had any put in them- but still had the holes for them to fit into. sometimes there are no locking pins on the nose cone of the fuse either, like what you said about your fuse. thanks for commenting :)
yea it needs to be very hot, which makes the metal expand so when you cool it down quickly it returns to its normal size quicker which loosens the components.
i found one not long ago, but its all really dirty. any advice on cleaning before trying to disassemble it? any can i check somehow is the fuse burnt and safe to heat?
Not much of a tutorial, without telling why you do what you're doing, or even showing the little pieces. Not a word about how they work, no theory at all.
+Rick Autry This is what I call an "in the workshop" video so basically a video walk through on taking a fuse apart. If you would like more information, close ups on all components along with explanations and history please look at one of my "disassembly" videos which are done in full HD at my desk where all the components are clean and much easier to show and talk about. Thanks
I don’t get the drilling bit. Was there a seized grub-screw?
Anyway. Next time reduce damage by putting a rod into the hole you drilled (as in bottom it out in the hole) then hit the rod - might help reduce scaring on the tip near the hole.
There is also a ring in the base underneath that’s hard to get out.
Good job Bro 👌🤩💪
Hi there. I have what I think is a type 80 fuze. It's in great nick and mostly disassembled but there's one bit I can't figure out. Can you help. I've got pics of al the bits.
yes, I try to get it as hot as possible. normally id put it in our wood burning fire but its not quite winter yet so we dont have it lit yet.
How not to take apart a ww1 shell fuse in 2012, i hope you can see after 6 years your own cruel skills.
nice video, do you heat the fuze to glowing hot?
These no80's were used on 18 pdr, 13 pdr, 10 pdr, 15 pdr and 75mm artillery shells :)
I tried it like how I saw it on the turkisch fuze video, but I think I didn't made it hot enough. It was a No88 fuze. Nothing would budge...I'll try again then and make it hotter. Then a quick cool down?
this may sound stupid but is the screw you drilled out visible,on my fuse there does not appear to be a screw, so maybe its already gone ??????
hi evo,there was no screw i have now taken my fuse apart thanks to your great vids,the 2 little locking pins were not visible when i took the first piece off,i poked a dart down the holes and the pins appeared to be broken inside them,when i pried up the second bit 2 little ends came out of holes is this common for them to break, thanks to your vids i can now start looking at more of my fuse collection to strip.....keep em coming lol
The det on mine sits lower and i cant seem to just lift it out, any ideas on what would be stopping it coming out??
Some dumb questions.... do these fuses contain any explosive material? How did they ignite the shell?
And what is the goal of taking it apart? Just to clean up and keep as a relic? It does look beautiful cleaned up.
And from reading the other comments, these are not uncommon finds. Is that just because there was so much shelling during WW1? I'd think WW2 stuff would be more common. Sometimes it's hard to wrap your head around WW1.
They do when they are new, but not anymore after they have fuzed a shell.
Can someone tell me what is the screw for on the bottom of a No.80
Is the fuse itself dangerous? I mean when you find it on a battlefield, is it dangerous to clean it? Was it made to explode or just to make the shell explode?
I is made to make the shell explode but might have some explosive in it
It takes skill to do that :p nice one!
Dude, where'd get em from, ive been to the battlefields of the Somme, but all i find is peices of shrapnel, ive seen loads if these fuses, but they're always part of someones private collection, id love ti find one of these
You have a good chance to find highly toxic ammunition there.
@@norbertfleck812
I need to take a Metal Detector and go searching at night, most of the noxious ordanance has degraded by now and is little more than a harmless mineral deposit
@@BillSikes. I doubt that. S-Lost and Phosgene can still be lethal.
is that for a british 12 pdr artillery shell?
THANK YOU. I found a shell fuse like this one in my grandfather's things several years ago (he passed away in 1966.) Mine is in perfect condition, easily unscrewed and taken apart. I didn't know it was BRASS tho!! I shall have to polish it up. Perfect paper weight.
Hello, Up until Sunday I had a fuse number 80 in good shape having freed off all the components (except 1) . Following my success of dismantling other fuses by first heating them in barbecue charcoal and quenching them in cold water I thought that I would further try the Fuse No 80 giving it the same treatment in an effort to remove a steel "cap" which was situated in the middle of the body and screwed in. In the usual way I had a pair of tongs at the ready to lift out the red hot piece but to my horror it had melted the fuse part from the copper timing ring. Brass apparently melts at 800 degrees and I am positive that my barby temp doesn't get that hot. The metal that had melted has the colour of gold. The only good thing regarding this is that the steel "cap" was recovered whole. Were their fuses manufactured out of inferior materials? or perhaps you can tell me why this happened to this one and not the others. Look forward to hearing from you.
Robin March do you happen to know what date the fuse was? Brass melts at over 900 degrees Celsius so this most likely happened because during the later years of the war the munitions factories were running out of brass so started to mix in other metals which will reduce the purity of the brass and affect things such as melting temperature and strength etc. most likely a late war fuse, I've seen this same thing happen to a friend with a German dopp fuse as both countries were running out of brass and effectively doing the same thing to stretch their resources
why do you have to heat/cool it - doesn't this just soften the metal ?
Ian salmons some of this stuffs been buried for almost a hundred years and is well siezed together, the heat and cooling process just loosens everything up. Metal strength isn’t an issue as its only going to be an ornament once its apart and cleaned up
Evo7125 ok.. Thanks, one more question, the pin you drill out ... is it hardened?
Ian salmons I wouldn’t of said so, most likely just mild steel as it drills put relatively easy however the drill always moves into the softer brass which is the tricky part of drilling it nicely. its only a screw to stop the brass cone coming undone so i doubt they would go the effort of hardening them as they made so many millions, theres no actual blueprints saying it is or isn’t so I’m just judging on how easy they are to drill through.. Been a while since I’ve taken one apart though haha
Evo7125 If it’s a screw I’ll try a screw extractor first and see if I can wind it out
Ian salmons of its not rusted away it’ll be a flat head screw, I’ve only ever had one that unscrewed
when you got a lot free time & nothing to do with your life ,go ahead
It comes apart easier, when you use the proper tools.
Ian Smith still waiting for someone to actually come up with what these ‘proper tools’ are, other than that most people use what they have in the garage and they still do the job
Why not the puch in that hole and hit the end of the punch wthh the hammer, less damage .
Hi thanks i am going to try and take my fuses apart just got a austro-hungary m99 fuse
it looks like the fuse on my 12 pdr shell.
I'm trying to learn more about my artillery shell
Good job
бил, грел, сверлил - сделал все, чтоб взорваться
Two pieces of wood with crescents cut into them would help you keep that tight in the vice. Of course … that piece was actually better before you took it apart and polished the living crap out of it. 😄
Why drill through the entire head ? ? ?
thanks :)
I watch a video on doing this the person who was dismantling the fuse lost the best part of his fingers and sight in one eye don't try this at home folks.
At least you should purchase a fuze which is examined to be burnt out.
I have just found a youtube video it appears to be ww1 vintage
Are you sure it is inert? you are drilling and cooking!
1.51 tap tap tap....BOOM
Tin solder something then remove it
Very sloppy work
+Pawel33007
Are you a professional at doing this type of work?
how?
The heat created by the drill bit i presume. In Northern Ireland lots of people blew themselves up with pipe bombs screwing the cap on if powder was on the thread (friction). So I'm guessing that's what he meant
@@sammni After the fuze has done its job (some remains of the exploded shell were still attached to it) there is nothing left which could be dangerous - except for poisonous metals (lead etc.) or other toxic remains.
Парень, ты своей смертью не умрешь!! Не трогай старые боеприпасы вообще
no risk at all...this detonator was used...I mean it ignited something long ago..
And the purpose was....??
Dont be so negative Alan
Istructions unlear. Bew off 3 figers
Brutal use of tools.
Absolutely barbaric I say Charlie boy old chap!
hi I am really interested in this fuse because on a school trip to belgum about ww1 we went to a trench and I purchased a grimy/ dirty fuse which originally had no info about it for 10 euros . I then did lots of research into how to clean it and have confirmed it to be a no.80 VII shell fuse, however now that I have it I want to get the rest of it. please help because I have no idea if there are different types of shell casing or not and/or where to get this/these? please help thanks :D
images:
i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/starrydad/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151112_125045_zpszbamrqsu.jpg
i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/starrydad/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151112_125056_zpsgrpxu2iv.jpg
i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/starrydad/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151112_125121_zpslqaucotx.jpg
i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/starrydad/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151112_125210_zpsle4mcrxq.jpg
i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/starrydad/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151112_125220_zpstcikiwhl.jpg
endirenderz. your fuse is an 18 pounder only difference being is it high explosive or shrapnel
If you email me some pictures of the fuse and shell I'll see if I can tell you anything about it. I'll send you a message with my email address.
Pyramide office Gold is klaar 🚱🚮
Anyone else cringe when he use "WATER DISPERSION agent" 40 as a lubricant instead of a penetrating oil like Q10?