This is the only video out there for rear motor mount replacement. Removing was pretty straightforward thanks to your video. Installing the new one is a different story. Having twisted the transmission bracket, it was hard to put it back into place. I found out jacking the engine way up gave room to get the bracket back into place. Then came the struggle of bolting things up. I threaded the drive bolt and left it loose. Screwed the top bolt of the bracket from under then jacked the engine up from the transmission side and remaining 2 holes lined up. The 14mm bolt that holds the mount you access from under is the make it or break it imo for replacement. It was really tight and not really much space for leverage. I used a box wrench and breaker bar to get it going. Had to be creative.
Just did this repair and it was a full day changing all the engine mounts Radius bushings. Used your technique and it worked fine. One small note, in the beginning of your video, all you need to do is to take the lid of the air filter rather than unscrew the whole box. Just like you would change the filter with the tube going to the throttle module. Getting the aft mount up from the abyss between the firewall and the engine takes some patients, but it does come out rather than having to take the throttle module out. Thanks.
Vacuum actuated mounts have a liquid inside which over time loses its ability to dampen. Although the mount may look okay, and the vacuum functions it just doesn't possess the same properties it once did. This particular mount often leads to the front one becoming torn as well especially if you drive your cars hard. Great video good refresher for me as I'm about to do this on another another Honda.
I just did this on my 97 Odyssey which uses the same F22B engine. All you have to do is remove the u shaped hoop over the mount with the two 14mm bolts and the heater valve off the firewall to give you better access. Then slide the mount out behind the mount bracket and twist the bottom up and over it and slide it out. Unbolting the heater valve gives you the clearance you need to slide it out the pass side of the engine bay from the top
This is the only video on You tube on removing the rear motor mount. The rear mount is the hardest. Everyone talks about taking the intake off loosen the other mounts but you did it without doing that. This is a great video on how to do the job.
I just did this job today and followed your instructions. A little tricky twisting the mount out but got it all done in about 2-3 hours. excellent tutorial ! Thank You!
I used your process successfully on my 1994 Honda Accord. The other 3 were fairly easy to do. I was stumped on the one you're working on here. Then, I watched your video and admittedly I was very intimidated. The hot Florida sun was unforgiving here also but it was a success thanks to your video. I also didn't have the privilege of power tools. The last mount is in thanks to your video and she's up and running with no vibration. Feels like a new car. Thanks again!!
Removing the intake manifold to get the rear motor mount out is pure insanity. I wouldn't want to tack on more hours of never ending gasket scraping and crossing my fingers I didn't gouge the aluminum surface with my scraper creating a vacuum leak nightmare from hell.
i was able to do it but it was a freaking battle plus i was a bit sick so it was all an up hill battle for me.. i replaced the front mount but i know i needed to replace the rear also or the front one would rip apart .. i only have the side ones to go and they seem way easier the the front and back.. your video and others i researched helped me alot. thsnk you
Very impressive tutorial. I will use this information today to do this job on my 93 accord wagon. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I hope you and your camera man make many more videos to help people get threw difficult procedures on Honda's.
Just wanted to say thanks for making this video. Best one on the subject I've seen. Just did my 1997 Accord today, about 6 hours total. About the only thing I did different was I took the throttle body off to give more clearance and a top view of the mount.Gave me a chance to do a good throttle body cleanup while I had it out. Fairly easy removal and only adds about 20 minutes to the total job. It also gives you more swing room when removing the mount. Actually my mount was okay but the plastic bushing in the link from the vacuum solenoid to the crank lever on the mount failed allowing the link to pull out of the crank lever. Went ahead and replaced the mount with a new one rather than try a jury rigged repair. Should be good for another 135,000 miles.
+tuslogdet52 nice work! yeah this mount is the only pain in the ass since its way in the back and not a lot of room to work with. Took us a long time as well. Glad you got it done, now you don't have to worry about it until next time lol
Cool video! Unfortunately for me my 97 Accord with over 290,000 miles has a spun con rod bearing and will be pulling the engine to rebuilt it. Meanwhihle wih the engine removed, I'll replace all the motor mounts to save me the headache later down the road.
Thanks for the video,you make it look easy but is not,had a hard time adjusting the mount racket but finally did it,thanx again and all 94 honda accord videos are welcome
I got rear engine mount installed when i bought car cuz when i put on reverse 1 out of 5 times there was loud crack. AFter, i got it installed, same thing happened..no change or improvement. 2 years later i hear cracks when I accelerate or put on reverse. Do i need to change all of my mounts? I got 97 honda accord automatic.
Hey The engine mounts are confusing me and I am times limited. I can try ask dealer with my vin but I'll be busy tomorrow. I have a 1995 Honda Accord Wagon EX 2.2L VTEC Automatic Transmission So am I supposed to get transmission Mount with the solenoid? What is the solenoid for anyway? Thanks
You can check if your engine mount has the solenoid or Not by looking at your vehicle engine mount in the rear. The solenoid helps dampen the vehicle engine during idle and the ecu deenergize above idle.
@@NutzAboutBolts yeah I'm going to probably call them tomorrow morning while I'm at work. I don't know if you're in the US but sometimes you order stuff from RockAuto and the stuff comes like 2 days so when I get my order in by Sunday. I got some reputable shop that gave me a really good estimate on changing the rear main so I got to take them up on that offer.
If that mount you took out was OEM Honda and still good as you said. I would've slapped that baby back in and returned the other one. All aftermarket motor mounts are trash. You're gonna need to replace them again in about a year.
Hi, very helpful video! My accord 96 wheel only vibrates when its still and in driving gear. It doesn't happen in neutro or when moving. Its also worst when the AC is on, would this be the mounts?
Lol I have a 97 Honda oddysey with the accord motor I have to get the rear mount changed .when I saw were it was my eyes popped out of its sockets and the first words out of my mouth oh HELL NO! lol a job I will actually pay someone else to do. your a brave man lol...
Anthony Maldonado haha, yeah, this job was a little difficult to get to and took us 2-3 hours or so in the 90+ heat weather. We got it done though and its a common problem on these vehicles.
I got the old mount out and the new one in, having trouble getting all the bolts to line up correctly. Should i put the bolts into the brackets before the throughbolt in the rubber peice of the mount or vice versa? I can grt one or the other to line up but not both
I had the same problem. What I did was screw the through bolt and left it loose. Screwed and left loose the top bolt of bracket. Jacked the engine up from transmission side and the holes lined up. This is advise for guys wanting to do this in the future.
I had fun doing this on a 91 Accord. Did most of what he did less taking loose driver side mount which I should have done. Took fuel line loose from fuel filter. Took the fuel filter loose from firewall, Carbon Box?/loose from firewall and heater control valve hose and cable then turned vavle up behind manifold to r and r the mount. I use to cuss Italian cars now Japanese cars have taken their place. LOL
I have a question for the rear engine mount. What are the torque specifications on the rear engine mount if there is any? between the bracket and engine block and the main bolt that goes through the rubber piece.
Douglas Parish I'm not too sure, I would go to the dealership and ask for the part since they'll have a diagram of the parts and they have the OEM parts for it. I wouldn't try to find a bolt at home depot and replace it with it. Go get it at the dealership for the exact part.
Great video -- thanks. I've got a broken vacuum actuator linkage in the rear mount on my '96 EX, and this video is critical to my ability to DIY this project. Question -- what brand mount did you buy, and does it work well, i.e. dampen the vibrations properly at both high rpm and low idle rpm? I've heard a lot of skepticism about aftermarket motor mounts being too stiff and causing excess vibration ... but figure they can't all be bad.
I already bought the part and have a decent knowledge of auto repair. Do you think it's something I can do in my garage? Or should I have a shop do it??
David Volbeda it doesn't look to be that hard, just look and see if its possible for you. Most of the mounts, people can do it at home with the right tool. Make sure its jack up right and its safe to go down there. Be safe when working on these. Good luck.
hi, are the intake and exhaust support brackets neccessary to put back in? because i replaced all four of my mounts on my 96 accord and didnt put those 2 support brackets on, but now i still feel a little vibration only when i turn on my AC. could it be those 2 support brackets that i didnt put back on? well my question really is are those 2 support brackets a vital components for minimal engine vibration? Thanks.
i have honda accord 1994..and the problem is too much vibration when in drive mode in parking or if i make reverse.is it the engine mounts is the problem?
Bon Silbin mine does the same I have a 98 Honda Accord especially in reverse sounds bad idk if it could be this or sum thing Else but lmk what it could be? ASAP anybody heeeeeelp 😝
Man you have the best videos. But I wish you would have made this rear mount video on the 5th gen Accords. Is there any way I can find out how to do it?
+Thomas S The only thing is maybe the internet or RUclips? or maybe you can buy a repair manual and see how to do it as well. Unfortunately, we don't have a 5th gen accord on hand to demonstrate.
@@NutzAboutBolts thank you, i've tried to remove the two bolts on the lower bracket to the transmission and can not get them loose, therefore i give up and live with the shaking car though
I got the old mount out and the new one in, having trouble getting all the bolts to line up correctly. Should i put the bolts into the brackets before the bolt in the rubber peice of the mount or vice versa? I can grt one or the other to line up but not both@NutzAboutBolts
my 97 accord shakes at around 45 mph and gets worse the faster you go. it only shakes under acceleration......and quits when you get out of the throttle. no shake in the steering wheel, only in the seats and floors. any ideas would be helpful. all ready changed drivers cv joint.
+NutzAboutBolts great vids man, hey I have the 96 Accord with the 2.7 Liter V6. are you familiar with that engine? how would I go about changing the rear mount which Vacuum actuated?
okay, Marcus, why are you saying at 4:26 that there are 2 more bolts holding the mount to the subframe? There are 4 total, and you take out the driver's side front one, so three are left. 2 are on the passenger side, easy to get to. But the last one is on the driver's side at the rear of the mount, and you do not show how you removed that one. Or does the auto trans mount only have 3 bolts? Mine is a five-speed, and I am not reaching that one from any direction. Okay, sorry, I am wrong, the 5-speed has four bolts, and the auto has three. Guess I'll have to figure that out and post my own video. Thanks for the info you posted.
cori karasiuk yeah, sorry about not mentioning the bolts difference. The auto and manual trans mount is different. Hope you got it out and fixed the problem.
That's what I was thinking. The auto has only 3 bolts, 2 on passenger side easy to get to and 1 in the rear on the driver side, which he did not mention. Then the long main one going thru the bracket. Go figure. But thanks for info
yea a mechanic was changing my water pump on my 94 Honda accord ex instead of removing the the crank pulley he just cut the timing cover off with a blade and removed the top pulley to get too the water pump. So know my car struggles to start i think since he removed a pulley the timing is off??
Alex Rivera ouch, I would take the car back to him to have him redo the timing, he probably jacked up the timing if he didn't put it back together properly.
TheMarcusGomez yeah, always have the vehicle on jack stands. Never go under without them, don't trust just the jack underneath the vehicle, the hydraulic can go out anytime and can crush you. Be safe than sorry... we even posted an article on our Facebook Fan page about a male working under his vehicle and the hydraulic jack failed and crushed him to death.
This is the only video out there for rear motor mount replacement. Removing was pretty straightforward thanks to your video. Installing the new one is a different story. Having twisted the transmission bracket, it was hard to put it back into place. I found out jacking the engine way up gave room to get the bracket back into place. Then came the struggle of bolting things up. I threaded the drive bolt and left it loose. Screwed the top bolt of the bracket from under then jacked the engine up from the transmission side and remaining 2 holes lined up. The 14mm bolt that holds the mount you access from under is the make it or break it imo for replacement. It was really tight and not really much space for leverage. I used a box wrench and breaker bar to get it going. Had to be creative.
Glad you got it in, it’s a PITA, you did everything right
Just did this repair and it was a full day changing all the engine mounts Radius bushings. Used your technique and it worked fine. One small note, in the beginning of your video, all you need to do is to take the lid of the air filter rather than unscrew the whole box. Just like you would change the filter with the tube going to the throttle module.
Getting the aft mount up from the abyss between the firewall and the engine takes some patients, but it does come out rather than having to take the throttle module out.
Thanks.
Vacuum actuated mounts have a liquid inside which over time loses its ability to dampen. Although the mount may look okay, and the vacuum functions it just doesn't possess the same properties it once did. This particular mount often leads to the front one becoming torn as well especially if you drive your cars hard. Great video good refresher for me as I'm about to do this on another another Honda.
Thank you so much. This is my second time doing this and your tech looks way easier. I'm try tomorrow
I just did this on my 97 Odyssey which uses the same F22B engine. All you have to do is remove the u shaped hoop over the mount with the two 14mm bolts and the heater valve off the firewall to give you better access. Then slide the mount out behind the mount bracket and twist the bottom up and over it and slide it out.
Unbolting the heater valve gives you the clearance you need to slide it out the pass side of the engine bay from the top
This is the only video on You tube on removing the rear motor mount. The rear mount is the hardest. Everyone talks about taking the intake off loosen the other mounts but you did it without doing that. This is a great video on how to do the job.
whitesoxbob thanks!
I just did this job today and followed your instructions. A little tricky twisting the mount out but got it all done in about 2-3 hours. excellent tutorial ! Thank You!
nice work!
I used your process successfully on my 1994 Honda Accord. The other 3 were fairly easy to do. I was stumped on the one you're working on here. Then, I watched your video and admittedly I was very intimidated. The hot Florida sun was unforgiving here also but it was a success thanks to your video. I also didn't have the privilege of power tools. The last mount is in thanks to your video and she's up and running with no vibration. Feels like a new car. Thanks again!!
Michael Harder nice! we worked in the hot sun in this video as well, it wasn't comfortable lol. Glad you got it done!
Removing the intake manifold to get the rear motor mount out is pure insanity. I wouldn't want to tack on more hours of never ending gasket scraping and crossing my fingers I didn't gouge the aluminum surface with my scraper creating a vacuum leak nightmare from hell.
i was able to do it but it was a freaking battle plus i was a bit sick so it was all an up hill battle for me.. i replaced the front mount but i know i needed to replace the rear also or the front one would rip apart .. i only have the side ones to go and they seem way easier the the front and back.. your video and others i researched helped me alot. thsnk you
🙌🏽 yeah the rear mount was a PITA, glad you got it replaced.
This method worked great on my 1st gen CL. Thank you man you made this go smooth for me. First smooth repair in a while haha
Very impressive tutorial. I will use this information today to do this job on my 93 accord wagon. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I hope you and your camera man make many more videos to help people get threw difficult procedures on Honda's.
Thanks
Just wanted to say thanks for making this video. Best one on the subject I've seen. Just did my 1997 Accord today, about 6 hours total. About the only thing I did different was I took the throttle body off to give more clearance and a top view of the mount.Gave me a chance to do a good throttle body cleanup while I had it out. Fairly easy removal and only adds about 20 minutes to the total job. It also gives you more swing room when removing the mount. Actually my mount was okay but the plastic bushing in the link from the vacuum solenoid to the crank lever on the mount failed allowing the link to pull out of the crank lever. Went ahead and replaced the mount with a new one rather than try a jury rigged repair. Should be good for another 135,000 miles.
+tuslogdet52 nice work! yeah this mount is the only pain in the ass since its way in the back and not a lot of room to work with. Took us a long time as well. Glad you got it done, now you don't have to worry about it until next time lol
Cool video! Unfortunately for me my 97 Accord with over 290,000 miles has a spun con rod bearing and will be pulling the engine to rebuilt it. Meanwhihle wih the engine removed, I'll replace all the motor mounts to save me the headache later down the road.
I prefer this method over remove the intake plenum. Looking forward to changing my own motor mounts. Thanks for this tutorial
bad angles, but I think it will still be helpful. lookig to do this to my 95... Excited to start fixing her up. she's been a good car to me
yeah, most of the spaces are a lot tighter than on the video lol
Thanks for the video,you make it look easy but is not,had a hard time adjusting the mount racket but finally did it,thanx again and all 94 honda accord videos are welcome
funkmasterandre andre lol thanks, glad you got it in and fixed it. :)
Arka takozu sökmek için ön motor braketinin 3 civatasini çıkarmak gerekirmi ?
I got rear engine mount installed when i bought car cuz when i put on reverse 1 out of 5 times there was loud crack. AFter, i got it installed, same thing happened..no change or improvement. 2 years later i hear cracks when I accelerate or put on reverse. Do i need to change all of my mounts? I got 97 honda accord automatic.
Hey
The engine mounts are confusing me and I am times limited. I can try ask dealer with my vin but I'll be busy tomorrow.
I have a 1995 Honda Accord Wagon EX 2.2L VTEC Automatic Transmission
So am I supposed to get transmission Mount with the solenoid?
What is the solenoid for anyway?
Thanks
You can check if your engine mount has the solenoid or Not by looking at your vehicle engine mount in the rear. The solenoid helps dampen the vehicle engine during idle and the ecu deenergize above idle.
@@NutzAboutBolts thanks. I can't put it on a lift. I'd have use a flashlight.
And hope I can see it.
@@1XSTEALTHTWINTURBOX1 only other way is call the dealership with your vin or make and model and hopefully they can find out
@@NutzAboutBolts yeah I'm going to probably call them tomorrow morning while I'm at work.
I don't know if you're in the US but sometimes you order stuff from RockAuto and the stuff comes like 2 days so when I get my order in by Sunday.
I got some reputable shop that gave me a really good estimate on changing the rear main so I got to take them up on that offer.
@@1XSTEALTHTWINTURBOX1 yeah if you don’t have time to do it yourself, let the shop do it for cheap 👍🏼
Thanks for the video!
Np!
So did u put the vacuum hose back on? What does it do...why is there a hose connected to mount?
If that mount you took out was OEM Honda and still good as you said. I would've slapped that baby back in and returned the other one. All aftermarket motor mounts are trash. You're gonna need to replace them again in about a year.
bro is there a serious time lapse for the oil filter...how did you keep it from dripping
Tremendo trabajo nice. I have to replace same set up but on a 1995 honda odyssey hope it goes the same paz
Good move. I have a 95 honda odyssey with 300,000 miles going to replace all the mounts
Did you replace the rear mount? How did it go?
Not yet. Go to is rockauto
Im tackling this job pn my 97 accord soon, is there any differences between manual and automatics as i have the manual
Manual will have more room for you to remove the mount.
@@NutzAboutBolts oh thank God lol, thank you me and my dad are going to watch this video again tomorrow and figure out what we should do from there
Hi, very helpful video! My accord 96 wheel only vibrates when its still and in driving gear. It doesn't happen in neutro or when moving. Its also worst when the AC is on, would this be the mounts?
good job, made my heartskip watching it though...Should always use multiple safety jacks...
Lol I have a 97 Honda oddysey with the accord motor I have to get the rear mount changed .when I saw were it was my eyes popped out of its sockets and the first words out of my mouth oh HELL NO! lol a job I will actually pay someone else to do. your a brave man lol...
Anthony Maldonado haha, yeah, this job was a little difficult to get to and took us 2-3 hours or so in the 90+ heat weather. We got it done though and its a common problem on these vehicles.
I got the old mount out and the new one in, having trouble getting all the bolts to line up correctly. Should i put the bolts into the brackets before the throughbolt in the rubber peice of the mount or vice versa? I can grt one or the other to line up but not both
I had the same problem. What I did was screw the through bolt and left it loose. Screwed and left loose the top bolt of bracket. Jacked the engine up from transmission side and the holes lined up. This is advise for guys wanting to do this in the future.
Why don't you also take the center bracket off too? And the cats?
Would this be pretty much the exact same process for a 96 honda civic?
I had fun doing this on a 91 Accord. Did most of what he did less taking loose driver side mount which I should have done. Took fuel line loose from fuel filter. Took the fuel filter loose from firewall, Carbon Box?/loose from firewall and heater control valve hose and cable then turned vavle up behind manifold to r and r the mount. I use to cuss Italian cars now Japanese cars have taken their place. LOL
lol
I have a question for the rear engine mount. What are the torque specifications on the rear engine mount if there is any? between the bracket and engine block and the main bolt that goes through the rubber piece.
Front engine mount:
Bracket-to-chassis bolts - 28
Bracket-to-engine bolts - 28
Through-bolt - 47
Rear engine mount:
Mount-to-chassis bolts - 28
Bracket-to-engine bolts - 40
Nut for mount stud - 40
Left engine mount:
Bracket-to-engine bolt/nuts - 40
Mount-to-chassis bolts - 28
Right engine mount:
Through-bolt - 40
Bracket-to-transaxle nuts - 28
Mount-to-chassis bolts - 28
Says this is for a 6th gen 98-02 accords
wow this looks like a pain in the ass! thanks for posting though. did you have the oil drained before taking out the filter?
What would be the problem that rattle the whole engine?? Replaced the front nd driver motor mount but still the same??
Did you replaced the rear mount?
is it basically the same on 98-02 accords 2.3l 4 cyl?
it might be different on 98-02 since they got rid of that vacuum motor mount.
RIGHT
The bolts that go in above the exhaust, what size diameter and length are those. This guy sold me my car with no bolts in the rear mount
Douglas Parish I'm not too sure, I would go to the dealership and ask for the part since they'll have a diagram of the parts and they have the OEM parts for it. I wouldn't try to find a bolt at home depot and replace it with it. Go get it at the dealership for the exact part.
Ok bro preciate it
***** I feel you on dat
Great video -- thanks. I've got a broken vacuum actuator linkage in the rear mount on my '96 EX, and this video is critical to my ability to DIY this project.
Question -- what brand mount did you buy, and does it work well, i.e. dampen the vibrations properly at both high rpm and low idle rpm? I've heard a lot of skepticism about aftermarket motor mounts being too stiff and causing excess vibration ... but figure they can't all be bad.
John Kowtko it is an aftermarket part from Auto Zone. Not sure of the brand, but it works well. Haven't heard of any problems so far.
John Kowtko
did you had a rought idle ?
Your videos are solid! I'm a huge fan. Do you have a video on how to replace the rear engine mount for a 2003-2007 ex v6 accord??
David Volbeda thanks! unfortunately, we don't have that video.
a
Thanks for posting this video. Now I know not to even try this lol
😅😅 it’s not too bad but I get it.
I already bought the part and have a decent knowledge of auto repair. Do you think it's something I can do in my garage? Or should I have a shop do it??
David Volbeda it doesn't look to be that hard, just look and see if its possible for you. Most of the mounts, people can do it at home with the right tool. Make sure its jack up right and its safe to go down there. Be safe when working on these. Good luck.
hi, are the intake and exhaust support brackets neccessary to put back in? because i replaced all four of my mounts on my 96 accord and didnt put those 2 support brackets on, but now i still feel a little vibration only when i turn on my AC. could it be those 2 support brackets that i didnt put back on? well my question really is are those 2 support brackets a vital components for minimal engine vibration?
Thanks.
Destroymaster100 the vibration is more likely the cheap aftermarket mounts... the brackets are important, they help prevent cracks on the manifolds.
thanks for the video im going to change mine this weekend if it doesnt rain ,were you getting a rough idle because of this ?
yes, the idle was rough due to the engine mount, this is a common problem with this car.
NutzAboutBolts
thank you
I have the same problem
Ok thanks thats a start, they're 17x wat length
i have honda accord 1994..and the problem is too much vibration when in drive mode in parking or if i make reverse.is it the engine mounts is the problem?
sounds like it, have you checked to see if its brittle and cracked?
Bon Silbin mine does the same I have a 98 Honda Accord especially in reverse sounds bad idk if it could be this or sum thing Else but lmk what it could be? ASAP anybody heeeeeelp 😝
Honda parts discontinued which brand did you go with?
We went with Amazon, links in the description box. You can also try finding one on eBay if the amazon one doesn’t work, or any automotive part stores
I have a 1991 Honda accord lx I am having trouble adjusting the rear mount bracket. It wont move up any further, trying to install.
WOLFnPACK R. maybe before bolting down all the bolts, just hand tighten it so the parts can move around.
ok so what i did was remove the passenger side mount and gave me a lot more room to install bracket thanks anyways.
Man you have the best videos. But I wish you would have made this rear mount video on the 5th gen Accords. Is there any way I can find out how to do it?
+Thomas S The only thing is maybe the internet or RUclips? or maybe you can buy a repair manual and see how to do it as well. Unfortunately, we don't have a 5th gen accord on hand to demonstrate.
guess i will purchase haynes. D:
keep up the videos they're awesome.
+Thomas S thanks! :)
Dang that looks hard though. How long did the whole process take?
Daniel Gonzalez Silva almost 3 hours in the hot hot sun.
Very helpful
anthony cowles thx
Are you working under that car without jack stands?
never! lol
Wat size are those bolts in the rear motor mount, I have to replace them
Douglas Parish I believe its 17mm
Douglas Parish was those bolts 17mm?
can i remove the rear mount without remove the bracket, because the two bolts to the bracket is so tight that i cant remove
You’ll need to remove the bracket or else you won’t be able to wiggle the rear mount out
@@NutzAboutBolts thank you, i've tried to remove the two bolts on the lower bracket to the transmission and can not get them loose, therefore i give up and live with the shaking car though
@@tonyle7311 try spraying some WD-40 on the bolts and then use an impact wrench to break the bolt loose.
I got the old mount out and the new one in, having trouble getting all the bolts to line up correctly. Should i put the bolts into the brackets before the bolt in the rubber peice of the mount or vice versa? I can grt one or the other to line up but not both@NutzAboutBolts
my 97 accord shakes at around 45 mph and gets worse the faster you go. it only shakes under acceleration......and quits when you get out of the throttle. no shake in the steering wheel, only in the seats and floors. any ideas would be helpful. all ready changed drivers cv joint.
any fuel problems? any check engine light? does it shake during idle?
No , it is noticeable at 45 and gets worse. I had to change the left axle because of a split boot anyway. Thanks for the reply .
Check your inner axles, if the grease leaked out, it'll shake upon acceleration.
I will check it out....thanks.
Is this the same for a 2000 accord 2.3 manual transmission?
+Je Jupiter no, its different.
Thank you!
You don't need to take out the air box?
We took it out in the beginning to have access to the top
Does anyone have torque specs for this job?
THANKS GREAT JOB!!!!!
Lou M. Méndez thanks!
is way easy if you remove the intake and throttle the job dont take more than 3 hrs
+nomercy0401 we did look into that, but you'll be removing more things out of the way than doing this way.
+NutzAboutBolts great vids man, hey I have the 96 Accord with the 2.7 Liter V6. are you familiar with that engine? how would I go about changing the rear mount which Vacuum actuated?
GD UPLOAD!!!
Cool, but your sound was low and garbled
Thanks bro
Douglas Parish np!
okay, Marcus, why are you saying at 4:26 that there are 2 more bolts holding the mount to the subframe? There are 4 total, and you take out the driver's side front one, so three are left. 2 are on the passenger side, easy to get to. But the last one is on the driver's side at the rear of the mount, and you do not show how you removed that one. Or does the auto trans mount only have 3 bolts? Mine is a five-speed, and I am not reaching that one from any direction.
Okay, sorry, I am wrong, the 5-speed has four bolts, and the auto has three. Guess I'll have to figure that out and post my own video. Thanks for the info you posted.
cori karasiuk yeah, sorry about not mentioning the bolts difference. The auto and manual trans mount is different. Hope you got it out and fixed the problem.
That's what I was thinking. The auto has only 3 bolts, 2 on passenger side easy to get to and 1 in the rear on the driver side, which he did not mention. Then the long main one going thru the bracket. Go figure. But thanks for info
is it alright if I'm missing a bolt on a motor mount
+Alex Rivera no, make sure to have all the bolts or you'll have vibrations.
Thank u I already found the missing bolt but my car has problems with starting I think it needs to be retimed
Alex Rivera
it shouldn't need that if all you did was removed the rear engine mount... unless you did something else to the timing lol...
yea a mechanic was changing my water pump on my 94 Honda accord ex instead of removing the the crank pulley he just cut the timing cover off with a blade and removed the top pulley to get too the water pump. So know my car struggles to start i think since he removed a pulley the timing is off??
Alex Rivera
ouch, I would take the car back to him to have him redo the timing, he probably jacked up the timing if he didn't put it back together properly.
Huge headache, lol..
looks worse than replacing the dang wheel bearings
Jack stands?
TheMarcusGomez ?
Did u use jack stands, and not just a jack itself.
Oh I just noticed it now in the picture . Lol.
TheMarcusGomez
yeah, always have the vehicle on jack stands. Never go under without them, don't trust just the jack underneath the vehicle, the hydraulic can go out anytime and can crush you. Be safe than sorry... we even posted an article on our Facebook Fan page about a male working under his vehicle and the hydraulic jack failed and crushed him to death.
Yeah I've heard many stories too.
Comfort sedan