You needed heat enough to get the metal to glow and hammer stress relief in the areas that were bowed or stretched while your using the ram, once your you're satisfied with the straightening if it is still hot you can air gun cool it but not splash it with water because that will cause it to become brittle, cutting to restore shape in the corners works but will weaken the areas that were welded. The weld is always far stronger then the parent metal and the heat generated can weaken the parent metal, so it might be advisable to place a plate or reinforcement gusset in the areas that you welded as opposed to leaving just a straight butt weld which is inherently weaker and prone to cracking or splitting at the weld seam.
The proper way to do this would be push each side of the back out, then hit the raised part of the frame down, you can see right before the bend on each side that the frame is bent up. Hitting that stress point would allow the frame to "snap" back into place. When you try to straighten any frame you always have to hammer the stress points, otherwise it will not be a strong fix.
This is the perfect example of what I fail to understand Joe! I'm sure superman makes a great point but for me I would need that along with a fab Joe video to really sop up all the good stuff 👍
Thank you Joe! I'm more of a visual person and find it difficult to follow the step by step directives in the pamphlet. Mainly because it is to general for a dent puller for dummies type of guy like myself lol. Love the attention to detail 👌thank you!
A "come along" ( lever ratchet ) puller would have helped to pull things together. Don't need hydraulics for that (I have a 4t puller myself for example). Might have been better to use a big section to spread the load on the next frame cross rail you were using as a reaction point so as not to bend that. And i would have started by pushing the back rail straight -- the secondary bend in the side rail would very likely have reversed for the same reason it was created.
Shocking the metal with a hammer while it has pressure on it will help it from springing back. All you had to do was hammer down the high spots in the corners and you would have been good.
Is that kit really just for spreading things? Like I couldn't use it to press out a bushing right? I have a part I want to press out but would be hard to take it to a big shop press.
Thanks for the tip, That was only part of the problem, The metal had stretched a bit. I found that cutting, bending and re-welding took a bit less time.
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You needed heat enough to get the metal to glow and hammer stress relief in the areas that were bowed or stretched while your using the ram, once your you're satisfied with the straightening if it is still hot you can air gun cool it but not splash it with water because that will cause it to become brittle, cutting to restore shape in the corners works but will weaken the areas that were welded. The weld is always far stronger then the parent metal and the heat generated can weaken the parent metal, so it might be advisable to place a plate or reinforcement gusset in the areas that you welded as opposed to leaving just a straight butt weld which is inherently weaker and prone to cracking or splitting at the weld seam.
Thanks for the tip
Put a piece of 2x4 across the span.
Great demonstration 👍😁
Thanks Dave
The proper way to do this would be push each side of the back out, then hit the raised part of the frame down, you can see right before the bend on each side that the frame is bent up. Hitting that stress point would allow the frame to "snap" back into place. When you try to straighten any frame you always have to hammer the stress points, otherwise it will not be a strong fix.
Great tip thanks for the explanation 😊
This is the perfect example of what I fail to understand Joe! I'm sure superman makes a great point but for me I would need that along with a fab Joe video to really sop up all the good stuff 👍
Thank you Joe! I'm more of a visual person and find it difficult to follow the step by step directives in the pamphlet. Mainly because it is to general for a dent puller for dummies type of guy like myself lol. Love the attention to detail 👌thank you!
Thanks Ed, I enjoy adding the detail to the videos
Sir thank you so much for this video helped me a lot god bless you
Thanks for the feedback
Great use of that tool!
Thanks for the feedback
Thank man
A "come along" ( lever ratchet ) puller would have helped to pull things together. Don't need hydraulics for that (I have a 4t puller myself for example).
Might have been better to use a big section to spread the load on the next frame cross rail you were using as a reaction point so as not to bend that.
And i would have started by pushing the back rail straight -- the secondary bend in the side rail would very likely have reversed for the same reason it was created.
Thanks for the tip
Great video! Thanks!
Thanks
Thank you
Shocking the metal with a hammer while it has pressure on it will help it from springing back. All you had to do was hammer down the high spots in the corners and you would have been good.
Thanks great tips
Put a board across it moe!
Thanks for the tip
Is that kit really just for spreading things? Like I couldn't use it to press out a bushing right? I have a part I want to press out but would be hard to take it to a big shop press.
The Harbor Freight Press would be a better deal, 12 ton vs 4 ton, same price. Go with the press model
If it were me, I would've bought two of those jacks, three or four for foundation work.
Thanks Brian for the infomation
hey joe...thanks. Could you have taken a flat dolly or backup for a hammer, and hit those raised corner kinks instead of cutting? Just wondering....
Thanks for the tip, That was only part of the problem, The metal had stretched a bit. I found that cutting, bending and re-welding took a bit less time.
That’s a very lightweight frame.