Wow that attic came out super. I am going to wait till it gets a bit cooler cause now its a furnace up there. A bit of detail but the outcome was perfect. Thank you
Very nice looking, as you said, "it is just an attic, it doesn't have to be perfect." Well, I wish my "special projects cam out as nice as your hack together project!
Nicely done. That is exactly what I want to do with my attic. I am so tired of looking at all that blown insulation up there. It looks like a mess in my attic right now. Your attic looks so nice and organized.
Hello thank you I had that same problem. Was tires of looking at it and was so messy. Now is so much better I do enjoy every time I go up there which is very often. Hope you get it done soon send me the link when you finish so I can see it.
You need at least a 1 inch air gap from the insulation to your roof sheathing. Take them out and add 1 inch space. You could either cut small wood blocks to put in and set the insulation board against or you can install baffles before putting the insulation in place. If you don't, your going to ruin your roof with no air flow at the roof sheathing. you need to allow air to flow from your soffit, up the sheathing and out of the ridge vent.
That insulation is so I dont get the nails into my head but really are kind of loose. Its not everywhere just that section there just for that issue. I can remove it and cut the nails flush also. In the summer is very hot up there and kind of help a little but not enough. Thank you
Its been years I did this and no mold yet. I ordered a new roof last week and will be rearranging the foam to let them breath since I am getting some feedback on this issue. Its a small area just were I walk so the nails dont pinch my head. Thanks
I am not an insulation expert but from what I have seen in attack insulation videos, I noticed the insulation you put up against the roof sheathing, I think your suppose to leave a gap between the roof sheathing and the insulation to allow for air flow from the soffit vent to the ridge vent or box vents at the top of the roof. Just something you might want to look into, to keep your attic cooler and keep from damaging your shingles. Good job on the storage area that’s something I’m starting in my garage attic.you also might want to check out the videos on DIY attic elevators there are quite a few different ones They look fairly easy to make and sure makes it a lot easier to get stuff up and down. I’m gonna make one for my garage
Hello I just added that foam to mainly keep my head from hitting the nails. I does help a little with the heat but in the summer you cant go up there for too long anyway. Its just in that section there when you enter the attic. I even had to cut some of the nails that were longer than 3/4 so it would not pass the foam. I had some left from the garage door insulation I did and I ended up using it. Since then I do feel a little better but not enough to go hang out up there for too long. My attic is like 3000 sq. ft and would love to do the foam spray in the intire attic but since my roof is the original I want to wait till I get a new roof to do it. Its a bit costly to spray the entire home but once I get that new room I hope to also get the foam insulation along with a solar heat fan to help also. Thank you
@@ExtremDIY You need at least a 1 inch air gap from the insulation to your roof sheathing. Take them out and add 1 inch space. You could either cut small wood blocks to put in and set the insulation board against or you can install baffles before putting the insulation in place. If you don't, your going to ruin your roof with no air flow at the roof sheathing. you need to allow air to flow from your soffit, up the sheathing and out of the ridge vent.
One thing you could have done differently is to run the grain of the plywood at 90 degrees to what you did. Plywood has an odd number of layers with the top and bottom the same. I did my attic with 1/2 inch plywood but had the grain going across the rafters. That way I have 3 layers in the strongest direction instead of only 2. I hadn’t thought of it prior to the install but noticed a huge difference in springiness when I alternated orientation. But since you used heavier ply it’s probably not an issue and your runs are longer the way you did it and look better with long runs of grain. But my way would be slightly cheaper and lighter and I’m just passing on an alternative and making people aware of the odd number of ply veneers. Another thing I did at the plywood joins was screw a timber underneath to strengthen the join after all I’m only using 1/2 inch ply.
Wow I would had never thought about something like that. Some sections are springy. I thought of using less cuts thats why I used it the longer way. I did notice that when it was a tight fit there is less flex than the sections that have some play when the wood was installed. I love the attic I wish it was as high as the other sections of the home but overall I will add some some more this winter cause its too hot now. Also get rid of a lot of stuff that never gets used. Thank you for the advise
Nice job..have same area above tooo…..what did you use on the roof insulation?……flooring was great idea and work to get it done…very impressive…my garage area had insulation pulled out and it was freaking hot in there…almost need fan to remove hot air…..
Hello I used 3/4 foam pieces that I had left over from the garage door that I insulated because of the direct sun I get in the morning. Also helps with the nails sticking to my head. In the summer it feels better in that section than without the foam insulation but it surves a dual purpose for me but more so I dont pinch my head. You know when you are looking for something you forget there are nails and wham in they go. They sell them I believe up to 2 inches thick if you wanted to go that rout or spray foam the entire attic. I would like to spray foam the entire attic but I still have the original roof. I want to wait till I get the new roof and spray it and add an attic fan if possible to bring down the temp in the summer. Thank you
Hello now that is cooler I am cleaning out and getting rid of many items that I will never use. We start packing crap and forget about it then never find it...
This is dangerous.. Those trusses are designed to carry almost no load on the bottom cord. if you put very much up there you can cause serious damage to the structure.
Hello I have been getting rid of the useless items and most left are empty boxes or Christmas items. Anything that has some weight was moved to the area of the support wall. So far no cracks on the ceiling. I also put back 2x4 along the trusses once I finished the installation of the plywood. They were there before I started the project for support. I removed them and reinstalled after I was done with the video. Thanks
@@dumpsterfire6351 Dumpster, unless you are an Engineer you don’t know. Just my dumb ol’ engineer opinion. Yes you could reinforce things and make it work. He didn’t, and the folks who do these kind of modifications rarely, if ever do. Modern trusses are stuck together with nail plates, and as soon as you get any over deflection you have the ability of the intersections of the truss to move, and that further loosens the nail plates. Weakening the joints and allowing more deflection. This can lead to catastrophic failure under wind or snow loads. I’ve spent a couple of decades, figuring out how to repair the damage to buildings caused these kind of poorly, and ignorantly conceived projects by home owners, their handymen, and contractors.
@@randallthomas5207 oh here we go with the “I’m an engineer” don’t tell me what i know guy. Appears you very used to talking down to people. Its not exactly rocket science right. I do know many people don’t understand basic physics but reinforcing a rafter is very simple. Some 2x6’s and a long beam will more than suffice the POORLY DESIGNED (engineered) structure. Ohhh the engineer designed the shitbird truss. Imagine that! Not an attack on you sir…just a lifetime of wondering “why tf did they do that?”I understand what your saying but because someone isn’t an engineer doesn’t mean that a homeowner cant simply UNDERSTAND build / reinforce something beyond its poorly designed waste of space code.
@@dumpsterfire6351 The difference difference between engineers and others is that the engineer, can give you an accurate idea of how things will work, and meet your budget, or tell you what more it will take. My father told me years ago, that if you take a million monkeys, and teach them to randomly pound on a key board, then sort through the results,you will eventually have enough word strings to put together the complete works of Shakespeare. And if you bunch of guys an unlimited budget, and enough time they can build a bridge to get a truck over the river. You can build anything an engineer can design, just by trail and error. The engineer can tell you how to build a bridge over the same water way, in a finite time, with finite resources, and know how much load it can carry.
Looks great, but how do you know it is structurally sound? You are adding a lot of weight. I want to do this, but figure I first need to call in a structural engineer.
Hello I thought about that so I moved all the heavy items towards the support wall and the empty boxes and light items in the middle. I spoke to a friend about the weight and since the wood is being screwed into the truses he said it helps to give some support and rigidity. He said to even out the weight to the support wall and move light items to center. He also mentioned the structure has lots of cross support since its a large roof that can handle some decent weight, I hope he is correct and the ceiling doesnt fall on me. I wanted to go with a thinner wood but was very bouncy so I went with 5/8 inch which worked perfect. Also if you go with non treated wood is lighter but more expensive. Thank you let me know how yours comes out
I see lots of compliments and a few people pointing out that trusses (especially 2x4) arent ment to hold the weight... So what is the solution? Don't suggest tearing all down and installing 4x12 rafters. The practice in the video is done by millions of people and surely if drywall started to fall and roof decking caving in people would share those videos.. i haven't seen any. Yes in agree the risk isn't here, but people get 2 layers of shingles, feet of snow, hang drywall, Garage door motors, bikes and it handles. So what is the exact breaking point? Surely span distance and load barring walls placed dead center change numbers? But to then simple question, how can one door things to lesson failure? Running plywood spanning 90degrees to trust? Sistering up 2x4s on bottom cord of does that not help? What about a perpendicular run 2x4s that spans from one load wall to then other and plywood on top of that and not directly putting weight on the strusses?
Hello thank you for your feedback looks like you are well knowledgeable. I put the heavy stuff close to the load bearing wall. I reinstalled 2x4 on top of the finished plywood fastened to the trusses to balance any load like you mentioned. I had added it back after the video was finished and forgot to included. These trusses seemed built with great support compared to most other attics I have seen but doesnt mean I should load up on junk in the attic. I do a regular through away crap and make sure weight is distributed. I moved my garage door openers to the wall style for looks and remove weight of the center ceiling. So far so good. thank you
Hello If you go by an engineer they will tell you that you cant put much weight in the attic. We dont get snow in south Florida so far but we do have roof tiles that are heavy. I put the heavier items were the support wall is the rest are empty boxes or light items. Some homes dont have good structure so you have to be extra careful with the weight. If you are going to build something like this do speak to someone that has experience to make sure you dont overload the attic. If you are going to build a room or office in an attic then for sure you need an experienced contractor for the job. Hope this helps thank you
Hello the jigs are so the 2x2 on the side were the plywood will rest on land flush with the floor. So if you are doing 5/8 thick plywood then you make the jig with 5/8 depth so once you install the wood on top it will sit nice and flush with the trusses. Hope it helps thank you
When trusses are designed and built, they are sized for load or NO load...This is significant. The load you are placing up there, the plywood alone was not calculated in the structure. NOT a GOOD deal, I would expect problems in the future...The dimension lumber and the fasteners, Truss strut gussets all are undersized.
Hello thank you when it gets a little cooler I am cleaning out the space and moving any items of weight to the support wall leaving empty boxes and such in the middle area. Hopefully it should have less stress on the trusses.
Homeowners do this stuff all the time. No no no no no no. As stated from op. The trusses are not Engineered for this type of load. The attic ladder is just there to have access to the mechanicals.
@@dumpsterfire6351 I'm sure someone on RUclips named "dumpster fire" knows better than engineers that both build the trusses themselves and those that are here to say why it's not a good idea. Your attitude can cause very costly problems for yourself and others.
@@archael18 RUclips is full of these brainless, rabid fanbois that will defend any moron making videos on how to destroy your house. This guy is potentially causing massive damage to his house and these idiots will cheer him on to the end. What's worse is that this damage probably won't be discovered until someone else buys the house and they are going to get stuck with the repair bills. I am currently in the situation of fixing a house that has test of thousands of dollars worth of poorly done and sometimes illegal modifications the be ignorant people who owned the home prior to me. I even hired a home inspector and he missed most of it, including illegal and dangerous wiring in the attic.
Hello those are new gas cans in case a hurricane for the generator. If I ever use them I would wash them and let them dry. the caps are on but very loose so no preasure is build up inside them. Thank you
Most attics are not designed to hold a load. Using your attic for storage could cause massive problems with your ceilings. Because you put the plywood inside the joists, instead of over them, you are removing any reinforcement they would add to your attic by spanning multiple joists. You are also limiting your amount of insulation, which doesn't looks like you have enough to begin with. The insulation you put along the inside of the roof is going to trap moisture and cause mold because you did not have any air gap. You may think you are fixing your house, but you are actually causing all kinds of problems due to your ignorance, which will probably never get discovered until someone else buys it. You people are a menace.
I guess some people are upset about my attic. Well like I mentioned before the insulation if so I dont pinch my head with the roof nails but they are kind of loose anyway. I am redoing my roof soon and I will remove them now that I know ventilation is needed. The insulation is what came with the house in that section where as the rest of the house is double the size. As far as the support there are other wood beams that were reinstalled after I installed the plywood. Any of the heavier items are on the support wall section only. the rest of the areas are empty boxes and small items. I am not an engineer by all means but I have seen some really horrible crap the home builders design and build here is South Florida. These trusts seem well reinforced and are doubled in some sections. My first half of this project was done with the plywood on the top instead of the inner joist but I like it better this way. If I ever have any issues I will let you know but so far so good. Thanks for your input.
@@Han-ws8he Hello hopefully when cool weather comes about I will do some changes. Also getting the roof done soon and will correct the foam insulation. I love my attic I wish it was taller. Thanks
Hello there was a beam that I removed to install the plywood that was not installed straight and I put back all across that section that is not on the video. That 2x4 beam will give more support and I have cleaned up the attic and removed any extra items. All the heavy items are on the support wall. Thank you
Great job making it organized. Thanks for the ideas
Thank you
Excellent job on the attic and lighting up there. thanks for the inspiration
Excellent job on that attic, thanks for the ideas.
Love what you did and gave me some great ideas. Thank you
Awesome job. Thanks
Wow that looks great. I bet it was hot up there but very well though out. thanks
Wow attic looks awesome.
Great job! Thanks for taking time to video this. This helps big time.
Hello thank you I am glad it helped.
The attic came out very nice. I been wanted to get mine done but havent had the time. Great work
Fantastic job on the attic. Once you finish the insulation the nails won't hurt as mush.
Very nice outcome.
Love it. Something I need to attempt one of these days.
Thank you
Wow that attic came out super. I am going to wait till it gets a bit cooler cause now its a furnace up there. A bit of detail but the outcome was perfect. Thank you
That looks awesome for an attic and the stick idea to open the ladder. I hate the rope on mine I will do this so I can remove the stick.
Very nice looking, as you said, "it is just an attic, it doesn't have to be perfect." Well, I wish my "special projects cam out as nice as your hack together project!
Thank you I wish its was a little taller but its sufficient for my needs.
Nicely done. That is exactly what I want to do with my attic. I am so tired of looking at all that blown insulation up there. It looks like a mess in my attic right now. Your attic looks so nice and organized.
Hello thank you I had that same problem. Was tires of looking at it and was so messy. Now is so much better I do enjoy every time I go up there which is very often. Hope you get it done soon send me the link when you finish so I can see it.
You need at least a 1 inch air gap from the insulation to your roof sheathing. Take them out and add 1 inch space. You could either cut small wood blocks to put in and set the insulation board against or you can install baffles before putting the insulation in place. If you don't, your going to ruin your roof with no air flow at the roof sheathing. you need to allow air to flow from your soffit, up the sheathing and out of the ridge vent.
That insulation is so I dont get the nails into my head but really are kind of loose. Its not everywhere just that section there just for that issue. I can remove it and cut the nails flush also. In the summer is very hot up there and kind of help a little but not enough. Thank you
@@ExtremDIY You really aren't too bright are you?
@@ExtremDIYcan't wait to watch your moldy roof replacement🥴
Its been years I did this and no mold yet. I ordered a new roof last week and will be rearranging the foam to let them breath since I am getting some feedback on this issue. Its a small area just were I walk so the nails dont pinch my head. Thanks
@ExtremDIY years...a roof should easily last decades. It really is just basic materials science and thermodynamics
You did a fantastic job on that attic all you need now is A/C lol.
Absolutely amazing job !!! I'm going to use your idea !!! I'm going to drill 2 inch holes everywhere for proper insulation ventilation !!! Amazing !!!
Hello thank you
That's a terrible idea. You need an actual air gap throughout
I am not an insulation expert but from what I have seen in attack insulation videos, I noticed the insulation you put up against the roof sheathing, I think your suppose to leave a gap between the roof sheathing and the insulation to allow for air flow from the soffit vent to the ridge vent or box vents at the top of the roof. Just something you might want to look into, to keep your attic cooler and keep from damaging your shingles. Good job on the storage area that’s something I’m starting in my garage attic.you also might want to check out the videos on DIY attic elevators there are quite a few different ones They look fairly easy to make and sure makes it a lot easier to get stuff up and down. I’m gonna make one for my garage
Hello I just added that foam to mainly keep my head from hitting the nails. I does help a little with the heat but in the summer you cant go up there for too long anyway. Its just in that section there when you enter the attic. I even had to cut some of the nails that were longer than 3/4 so it would not pass the foam. I had some left from the garage door insulation I did and I ended up using it. Since then I do feel a little better but not enough to go hang out up there for too long. My attic is like 3000 sq. ft and would love to do the foam spray in the intire attic but since my roof is the original I want to wait till I get a new roof to do it. Its a bit costly to spray the entire home but once I get that new room I hope to also get the foam insulation along with a solar heat fan to help also. Thank you
@@ExtremDIY You need at least a 1 inch air gap from the insulation to your roof sheathing. Take them out and add 1 inch space. You could either cut small wood blocks to put in and set the insulation board against or you can install baffles before putting the insulation in place. If you don't, your going to ruin your roof with no air flow at the roof sheathing. you need to allow air to flow from your soffit, up the sheathing and out of the ridge vent.
Yes, as a roofer, you need to allow the roof to have air flow. You can void shingle warranty and cause major ice dams in winter
@@ExtremDIY You are missing the point. Not leaving an air gap between the foam and the inside of the roof will trap condensation and cause mold.
One thing you could have done differently is to run the grain of the plywood at 90 degrees to what you did. Plywood has an odd number of layers with the top and bottom the same. I did my attic with 1/2 inch plywood but had the grain going across the rafters. That way I have 3 layers in the strongest direction instead of only 2. I hadn’t thought of it prior to the install but noticed a huge difference in springiness when I alternated orientation.
But since you used heavier ply it’s probably not an issue and your runs are longer the way you did it and look better with long runs of grain. But my way would be slightly cheaper and lighter and I’m just passing on an alternative and making people aware of the odd number of ply veneers.
Another thing I did at the plywood joins was screw a timber underneath to strengthen the join after all I’m only using 1/2 inch ply.
Wow I would had never thought about something like that. Some sections are springy. I thought of using less cuts thats why I used it the longer way. I did notice that when it was a tight fit there is less flex than the sections that have some play when the wood was installed. I love the attic I wish it was as high as the other sections of the home but overall I will add some some more this winter cause its too hot now. Also get rid of a lot of stuff that never gets used. Thank you for the advise
Nice job..have same area above tooo…..what did you use on the roof insulation?……flooring was great idea and work to get it done…very impressive…my garage area had insulation pulled out and it was freaking hot in there…almost need fan to remove hot air…..
Hello I used 3/4 foam pieces that I had left over from the garage door that I insulated because of the direct sun I get in the morning. Also helps with the nails sticking to my head. In the summer it feels better in that section than without the foam insulation but it surves a dual purpose for me but more so I dont pinch my head. You know when you are looking for something you forget there are nails and wham in they go. They sell them I believe up to 2 inches thick if you wanted to go that rout or spray foam the entire attic. I would like to spray foam the entire attic but I still have the original roof. I want to wait till I get the new roof and spray it and add an attic fan if possible to bring down the temp in the summer. Thank you
👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you
My attic is so full of just about anything that I get nightmares of it coming down on my face when I sleep.
Hello now that is cooler I am cleaning out and getting rid of many items that I will never use. We start packing crap and forget about it then never find it...
This is dangerous.. Those trusses are designed to carry almost no load on the bottom cord. if you put very much up there you can cause serious damage to the structure.
Hello I have been getting rid of the useless items and most left are empty boxes or Christmas items. Anything that has some weight was moved to the area of the support wall. So far no cracks on the ceiling. I also put back 2x4 along the trusses once I finished the installation of the plywood. They were there before I started the project for support. I removed them and reinstalled after I was done with the video. Thanks
I don’t know about “dangerous” Mr. Karen 😂
I don’t see a lathe up there.
Reinforce the rafters and use away
Wankers man i swear. 🙄
@@dumpsterfire6351 Dumpster, unless you are an Engineer you don’t know. Just my dumb ol’ engineer opinion. Yes you could reinforce things and make it work. He didn’t, and the folks who do these kind of modifications rarely, if ever do. Modern trusses are stuck together with nail plates, and as soon as you get any over deflection you have the ability of the intersections of the truss to move, and that further loosens the nail plates. Weakening the joints and allowing more deflection. This can lead to catastrophic failure under wind or snow loads. I’ve spent a couple of decades, figuring out how to repair the damage to buildings caused these kind of poorly, and ignorantly conceived projects by home owners, their handymen, and contractors.
@@randallthomas5207 oh here we go with the “I’m an engineer” don’t tell me what i know guy. Appears you very used to talking down to people.
Its not exactly rocket science right.
I do know many people don’t understand basic physics but reinforcing a rafter is very simple.
Some 2x6’s and a long beam will more than suffice the POORLY DESIGNED (engineered) structure. Ohhh the engineer designed the shitbird truss.
Imagine that!
Not an attack on you sir…just a lifetime of wondering “why tf did they do that?”I understand what your saying but because someone isn’t an engineer doesn’t mean that a homeowner cant simply UNDERSTAND build / reinforce something beyond its poorly designed waste of space code.
@@dumpsterfire6351 The difference difference between engineers and others is that the engineer, can give you an accurate idea of how things will work, and meet your budget, or tell you what more it will take. My father told me years ago, that if you take a million monkeys, and teach them to randomly pound on a key board, then sort through the results,you will eventually have enough word strings to put together the complete works of Shakespeare.
And if you bunch of guys an unlimited budget, and enough time they can build a bridge to get a truck over the river. You can build anything an engineer can design, just by trail and error. The engineer can tell you how to build a bridge over the same water way, in a finite time, with finite resources, and know how much load it can carry.
Looks great, but how do you know it is structurally sound? You are adding a lot of weight. I want to do this, but figure I first need to call in a structural engineer.
Hello I thought about that so I moved all the heavy items towards the support wall and the empty boxes and light items in the middle. I spoke to a friend about the weight and since the wood is being screwed into the truses he said it helps to give some support and rigidity. He said to even out the weight to the support wall and move light items to center. He also mentioned the structure has lots of cross support since its a large roof that can handle some decent weight, I hope he is correct and the ceiling doesnt fall on me. I wanted to go with a thinner wood but was very bouncy so I went with 5/8 inch which worked perfect. Also if you go with non treated wood is lighter but more expensive. Thank you let me know how yours comes out
I see lots of compliments and a few people pointing out that trusses (especially 2x4) arent ment to hold the weight...
So what is the solution? Don't suggest tearing all down and installing 4x12 rafters. The practice in the video is done by millions of people and surely if drywall started to fall and roof decking caving in people would share those videos.. i haven't seen any.
Yes in agree the risk isn't here, but people get 2 layers of shingles, feet of snow, hang drywall, Garage door motors, bikes and it handles.
So what is the exact breaking point? Surely span distance and load barring walls placed dead center change numbers?
But to then simple question, how can one door things to lesson failure? Running plywood spanning 90degrees to trust? Sistering up 2x4s on bottom cord of does that not help?
What about a perpendicular run 2x4s that spans from one load wall to then other and plywood on top of that and not directly putting weight on the strusses?
Hello thank you for your feedback looks like you are well knowledgeable. I put the heavy stuff close to the load bearing wall. I reinstalled 2x4 on top of the finished plywood fastened to the trusses to balance any load like you mentioned. I had added it back after the video was finished and forgot to included. These trusses seemed built with great support compared to most other attics I have seen but doesnt mean I should load up on junk in the attic. I do a regular through away crap and make sure weight is distributed. I moved my garage door openers to the wall style for looks and remove weight of the center ceiling. So far so good. thank you
How much weight can it hold, especiallywhen snow it on the roof, too? Did you get an engineer to confirm it is ok?
Hello If you go by an engineer they will tell you that you cant put much weight in the attic. We dont get snow in south Florida so far but we do have roof tiles that are heavy. I put the heavier items were the support wall is the rest are empty boxes or light items. Some homes dont have good structure so you have to be extra careful with the weight. If you are going to build something like this do speak to someone that has experience to make sure you dont overload the attic. If you are going to build a room or office in an attic then for sure you need an experienced contractor for the job. Hope this helps thank you
So is it flush?
Yes it came out flush.
I don't understand what your jigs did for you in the flooring.
Hello the jigs are so the 2x2 on the side were the plywood will rest on land flush with the floor. So if you are doing 5/8 thick plywood then you make the jig with 5/8 depth so once you install the wood on top it will sit nice and flush with the trusses. Hope it helps thank you
Is it flush?
Hello yes all the wood is flush with the 2x4 so you can easily slide boxes with no issues. Thank you
When trusses are designed and built, they are sized for load or NO load...This is significant. The load you are placing up there, the plywood alone was not calculated in the structure. NOT a GOOD deal, I would expect problems in the future...The dimension lumber and the fasteners, Truss strut gussets all are undersized.
Hello thank you when it gets a little cooler I am cleaning out the space and moving any items of weight to the support wall leaving empty boxes and such in the middle area. Hopefully it should have less stress on the trusses.
Homeowners do this stuff all the time. No no no no no no. As stated from op. The trusses are not Engineered for this type of load. The attic ladder is just there to have access to the mechanicals.
@@ExtremDIY man just reinforce and tell people to stfu
Good job bud
@@dumpsterfire6351 I'm sure someone on RUclips named "dumpster fire" knows better than engineers that both build the trusses themselves and those that are here to say why it's not a good idea. Your attitude can cause very costly problems for yourself and others.
@@archael18 RUclips is full of these brainless, rabid fanbois that will defend any moron making videos on how to destroy your house. This guy is potentially causing massive damage to his house and these idiots will cheer him on to the end. What's worse is that this damage probably won't be discovered until someone else buys the house and they are going to get stuck with the repair bills.
I am currently in the situation of fixing a house that has test of thousands of dollars worth of poorly done and sometimes illegal modifications the be ignorant people who owned the home prior to me. I even hired a home inspector and he missed most of it, including illegal and dangerous wiring in the attic.
Your insulation situation is horrible my friend
The money you spent on your attic you should’ve built a shed to house the same crap!
Unfortunately I live in an HOA and they dont allow any exterior structures.
Good job, I'm gonna totally steal your methods, but storing gas cans in your attic is not a good thing to do, even empty..
Hello those are new gas cans in case a hurricane for the generator. If I ever use them I would wash them and let them dry. the caps are on but very loose so no preasure is build up inside them. Thank you
Most attics are not designed to hold a load. Using your attic for storage could cause massive problems with your ceilings. Because you put the plywood inside the joists, instead of over them, you are removing any reinforcement they would add to your attic by spanning multiple joists. You are also limiting your amount of insulation, which doesn't looks like you have enough to begin with. The insulation you put along the inside of the roof is going to trap moisture and cause mold because you did not have any air gap.
You may think you are fixing your house, but you are actually causing all kinds of problems due to your ignorance, which will probably never get discovered until someone else buys it. You people are a menace.
I guess some people are upset about my attic. Well like I mentioned before the insulation if so I dont pinch my head with the roof nails but they are kind of loose anyway. I am redoing my roof soon and I will remove them now that I know ventilation is needed. The insulation is what came with the house in that section where as the rest of the house is double the size. As far as the support there are other wood beams that were reinstalled after I installed the plywood. Any of the heavier items are on the support wall section only. the rest of the areas are empty boxes and small items. I am not an engineer by all means but I have seen some really horrible crap the home builders design and build here is South Florida. These trusts seem well reinforced and are doubled in some sections. My first half of this project was done with the plywood on the top instead of the inner joist but I like it better this way. If I ever have any issues I will let you know but so far so good. Thanks for your input.
@@Han-ws8he Hello hopefully when cool weather comes about I will do some changes. Also getting the roof done soon and will correct the foam insulation. I love my attic I wish it was taller. Thanks
Run a beam and make a loft
Fk all that cross struss bs
Hello there was a beam that I removed to install the plywood that was not installed straight and I put back all across that section that is not on the video. That 2x4 beam will give more support and I have cleaned up the attic and removed any extra items. All the heavy items are on the support wall. Thank you
Thanks for telling us you don't have a functional brain.