Just started developing my black and white film. Only know and do stand developing - love it. Now wanna do color film. Was hoping stand developing could be done on color film. So happy to see this.
Wow, these look amazing! I'm going to have to try this and if it works for me, this will be how I develop my color for now on. Thank you sharing your method on color development.
Very interesting! Gearing up to do a video on stand developing for my channel and ran into this doing research. Looks like I’m going to have to amend my “you can’t get color with stand development” stance that I took in a previous video! Thanks for sharing 🙏
From what I could gather, these are the steps in this video. Do you start out by rinsing the film in the dark canister? I put "??" Next to the step, let me know! :) Steps (C-41) - spool up the film - rinse film?? - put in developer for 45min (agitating for 30 seconds 2-3times every 10 seconds) - put developer back into black/dark bottle - put blix in canister for 6min (agitate every 30 seconds for 10 seconds) - put blix back into dark bottle - wash film with water (plunging film in water within canister - pour stabilizer in film canister for about 1-2 min and then pour back into bottle - squeegee the film and let it dry
So, a lot of instructions will tel you to prewash or presoak. Based on my experiments and years of doing this, I don’t see a difference in doing it or not, so I consider it a personal choice.
I develop all my own film both c-41 and black and white, I to am a Rodinal lover usually @1:50, from time to time I use D-76 and DD-X, who says I don’t know how to live it up and have an exciting life? I use the Tetenal kits for colour, I’m very paranoid about temperatures and times but I’ve known mixes last 6 months if kept in the dark and cool with no air at all in the bottles and they are not over-used. But I do shoot a lot more black and white than colour I’d say a ration of about 15 black and white for 1 colour. So in those 6 months I’d only do about 8 films max and they tend to be 120. However, when I do develop colour I always make sure I rinse the film really well before starting. I’m going to wait until I’m making a new batch of mixes before using your method, but I’m definitely going to give it a try. Saving the video in a play list and will let you know how I get on
Great looking images! How'd you conclude that 45 minutes was the necessary time? And also, you say that the developer is at room temperature. Not all room temps are the same. Is the temp a specific temp or within a certain range? And do you adjust the time accordingly? Thanks.
after a certain amount of time, highlights arent developing any further as theres no agitation so the chemical against the film isnt replenished. 45 minutes is the shortest time i tested that fully developed the negs without issues. room temp can fluctuate true but around 20ºc seems to be a good middle ground.
Hi! The scans you have seem to be well scanned. I understand the operator plays an vital role in the scanning process, but I'm still curious what scanner you are using. I send all my film to a local lab to get developed and scanned with HS-1800. The thing is, it never gets the color right and scans often have a nasty cyan cast (which is not so easily balanced in post).
Hey Jimmy, thats really strange that you are getting scans back from a lab with incorrect colors. They should be doing all of the adjustments. Either way, I use an Epson V550 flatbed scanner. Its not the most advanced or "best" scanner, but it does a great job if you know what youre doing. I recommend picking up any of the Epson V series scanners (they are cheap!) and scanning your own negatives at home. Check this video out, it does a great job of explaining how to properly scan colour negatives.
I guess people at the lab are either too lazy or busy to scan it properly and just use auto settings. I will probably pick up a epson scanner in the future and do it myself. Thx!
Wow these look great, its so much easier to screw up the colors by having the temp off by a degree and here this is sitting for 45 mins and looks really nice. I'm gonna have to give this a try, I really really hate developing c41. Btw as far as washing blix/fixer it's not so much about washing it off the film (well that too) but also letting it diffuse out of the emulsion. But yea, a couple mins under the tap and some dunking and changing water is fine. The ilford method works great. What temp do you use for the chemicals? Just room temp?
@@ThePhotoDept Well, I used the Rollei COLORCHEM Kit C-41 with the user manual dilutions and the only result I got was a redish-orange 35mm film with no images. I am really interested in that method. I find it so usefull, specially with point and shoot cameras with no variable aperture or shutter speed settings.
@@ThePhotoDept I don't know, I think I'm going to develop another 35 film with some exhausted overused chemicals, like 7 or 8 baths. Maybe that works. To be honest, I didn't find any clear consistent table chart info about that method. Everything seems like trial-error testing. Anyway, awesome job. Thanks!
i used to do it with a diy sous vide then i decided to buy the cinestill tcs1000 best decision ever.it's very accurate at keeping the temp constant which every important when doing E6 there are more steps and its 6mn per step
A few questions I hope you can answer for me as I am new to the darkroom: 1. Do you prep the entire c-41 kit or do you only mix what you need for development? 2. Do you dilute your chemicals at all? 3. How much do you adjust your time by on cold/hot days? Thanks so much! Hope to be developing a lot of rolls with this process.
You don’t dilute the chemicals more than what it says in the kit instructions, and temp doesn’t matter in stand development (within reason... 65°F - 75°F).
Awesome, will try this when I get a c-41 kit. Have you experimented with pushing color film and using stand dev.? I'd assume it's the same situation as B&W, where the ISO doesnt make any difference in the dev. times/techniques, but I'm curious if you had any general insights into pushing color.
Great tutorial on stand development for c41! I'm interested in developing my own film, especially with medium format film! How much does the process change with 120 film?
The C-41 process is the same for all film formats. Stand development, in B&W, introduces a factor called "bromide drag", which can generate uneven development. Because of the chemical difference between B&W and C-41 development, I doubt that bromide drag is a factor in 120 development for C-41, but the question is untested as far as I know.
C41 is a “normalled” process, so regardless of film speed, brand , and format size, the process is the same. I process mostly 120 film shot with my Pentax 67 as of late.
Randall Stewart interesting you bring that up, I haven’t seen that in any of my b&w stand development myself. I’m interested to see what would cause this. I have noticed uneven development if I skip the agitation stage in either stand development process.
Depending on how demanding you are over your results, the images to me seem to lack saturation and have a modest blue cast. The problem in making any such judgement about the C-41 stand development process is the images are scanned for final viewing. Therefore, any deviations observed from a C-41 norm might be introduced in the scanning process. So, as he says, you'll have to try it for yourself and judge your own results. Note: skipping a water wash between developer and blix will significantly reduce the number of film rolls you can process before the blix goes bad. Question: What effect, if any, does stand development have on the extended reuse of the developer [number of rolls which can be processed] ???
Hello again, Randall. To answer your question, I can’t tell you how much longer or how shorter the lifespan of the chemistry is because I haven’t done any comparisons between the two methods in that regard. The reason I don’t do a wash between developer and blix is because almost all online resources who talk about stand development for c-41 have advised against it, so I followed suit. Seems to work out just fine, and I have noticed my developer is usually exhausted first anyhow. Finally, I disagree with your observations about Blue cast. I have gone over these images again and there is definitely a blue cast in the images with very strong Blue subjects, yes. However, there are several examples that are heavily green, yellow, and even pretty damn neutral such as the Coffee image and the one of my friend laughing inside. I dunno, maybe your eyes are better than mine!
Just started developing my black and white film. Only know and do stand developing - love it. Now wanna do color film. Was hoping stand developing could be done on color film. So happy to see this.
Your video entered the future. I was here and saw it. Good job.
Wow, these look amazing! I'm going to have to try this and if it works for me, this will be how I develop my color for now on. Thank you sharing your method on color development.
TRAVCANNPHOTO thank you! Remember, it took a lot of trial and error to get to where I landed, your results will vary.
Very interesting! Gearing up to do a video on stand developing for my channel and ran into this doing research. Looks like I’m going to have to amend my “you can’t get color with stand development” stance that I took in a previous video! Thanks for sharing 🙏
From what I could gather, these are the steps in this video. Do you start out by rinsing the film in the dark canister? I put "??" Next to the step, let me know! :)
Steps (C-41)
- spool up the film
- rinse film??
- put in developer for 45min (agitating for 30 seconds 2-3times every 10 seconds)
- put developer back into black/dark bottle
- put blix in canister for 6min (agitate every 30 seconds for 10 seconds)
- put blix back into dark bottle
- wash film with water (plunging film in water within canister
- pour stabilizer in film canister for about 1-2 min and then pour back into bottle
- squeegee the film and let it dry
So, a lot of instructions will tel you to prewash or presoak. Based on my experiments and years of doing this, I don’t see a difference in doing it or not, so I consider it a personal choice.
@@ThePhotoDept thank you! And room temp tap water is fine for the entire process?
woahhh how beautiful, thank youuu!!! can't wait to give color dev a whirl!
you better show me how you do!
I develop all my own film both c-41 and black and white, I to am a Rodinal lover usually @1:50, from time to time I use D-76 and DD-X, who says I don’t know how to live it up and have an exciting life? I use the Tetenal kits for colour, I’m very paranoid about temperatures and times but I’ve known mixes last 6 months if kept in the dark and cool with no air at all in the bottles and they are not over-used. But I do shoot a lot more black and white than colour I’d say a ration of about 15 black and white for 1 colour. So in those 6 months I’d only do about 8 films max and they tend to be 120. However, when I do develop colour I always make sure I rinse the film really well before starting. I’m going to wait until I’m making a new batch of mixes before using your method, but I’m definitely going to give it a try. Saving the video in a play list and will let you know how I get on
Thank you for explaining how to do this! I might try it with my own film.
Excellent video. It’s great to learn something new every day. Thanks!
Thank you so much for your support!
Wonderful! Thanks for sharing this approach!
Great looking images! How'd you conclude that 45 minutes was the necessary time? And also, you say that the developer is at room temperature. Not all room temps are the same. Is the temp a specific temp or within a certain range? And do you adjust the time accordingly? Thanks.
after a certain amount of time, highlights arent developing any further as theres no agitation so the chemical against the film isnt replenished. 45 minutes is the shortest time i tested that fully developed the negs without issues. room temp can fluctuate true but around 20ºc seems to be a good middle ground.
What type of developer do you use?
I believe I used the CineStill c41 kit
Hi! The scans you have seem to be well scanned. I understand the operator plays an vital role in the scanning process, but I'm still curious what scanner you are using. I send all my film to a local lab to get developed and scanned with HS-1800. The thing is, it never gets the color right and scans often have a nasty cyan cast (which is not so easily balanced in post).
Hey Jimmy, thats really strange that you are getting scans back from a lab with incorrect colors. They should be doing all of the adjustments. Either way, I use an Epson V550 flatbed scanner. Its not the most advanced or "best" scanner, but it does a great job if you know what youre doing. I recommend picking up any of the Epson V series scanners (they are cheap!) and scanning your own negatives at home. Check this video out, it does a great job of explaining how to properly scan colour negatives.
heres the link! ruclips.net/video/p5EymnBexVQ/видео.html
I guess people at the lab are either too lazy or busy to scan it properly and just use auto settings. I will probably pick up a epson scanner in the future and do it myself. Thx!
Wow these look great, its so much easier to screw up the colors by having the temp off by a degree and here this is sitting for 45 mins and looks really nice. I'm gonna have to give this a try, I really really hate developing c41. Btw as far as washing blix/fixer it's not so much about washing it off the film (well that too) but also letting it diffuse out of the emulsion. But yea, a couple mins under the tap and some dunking and changing water is fine. The ilford method works great. What temp do you use for the chemicals? Just room temp?
when i stand develop, the chemicals are at room tempt and adjusted for time if its a colder day.
Are the colour developer and blix diluted like the user manual says or you change concentrations?
Awesome video by the way.
Great question! The dilutions are the same as the instructions, no change.
@@ThePhotoDept Well, I used the
Rollei COLORCHEM Kit C-41 with the user manual dilutions and the only result I got was a redish-orange 35mm film with no images. I am really interested in that method. I find it so usefull, specially with point and shoot cameras with no variable aperture or shutter speed settings.
@@xpsacks oh wow thats really strange. that would indicate to me that it didnt develop and the blix washed away what was there.
@@ThePhotoDept I don't know, I think I'm going to develop another 35 film with some exhausted overused chemicals, like 7 or 8 baths. Maybe that works. To be honest, I didn't find any clear consistent table chart info about that method. Everything seems like trial-error testing.
Anyway, awesome job. Thanks!
Yeah, I definitely need to try this.
All done at room Temp? 65f~ or 18C?
In any stand development method temp doesn’t matter (within reason).
i used to do it with a diy sous vide then i decided to buy the cinestill tcs1000 best decision ever.it's very accurate at keeping the temp constant which every important when doing E6 there are more steps and its 6mn per step
A few questions I hope you can answer for me as I am new to the darkroom:
1. Do you prep the entire c-41 kit or do you only mix what you need for development?
2. Do you dilute your chemicals at all?
3. How much do you adjust your time by on cold/hot days?
Thanks so much! Hope to be developing a lot of rolls with this process.
You don’t dilute the chemicals more than what it says in the kit instructions, and temp doesn’t matter in stand development (within reason... 65°F - 75°F).
@@joeltunnahthank you! Just what I wanted to know
@DavidGriffin no problem. I think C41 stand development definitely gives the photos a special something. Try it! Good luck.
What were the brands of chemicals you used here?
Cinestill!
Hi great video! Would you happen to know how much rodinal would work to develop 120 film using stand development? Thanks so much
Awesome, will try this when I get a c-41 kit. Have you experimented with pushing color film and using stand dev.? I'd assume it's the same situation as B&W, where the ISO doesnt make any difference in the dev. times/techniques, but I'm curious if you had any general insights into pushing color.
Great tutorial on stand development for c41! I'm interested in developing my own film, especially with medium format film! How much does the process change with 120 film?
The C-41 process is the same for all film formats. Stand development, in B&W, introduces a factor called "bromide drag", which can generate uneven development. Because of the chemical difference between B&W and C-41 development, I doubt that bromide drag is a factor in 120 development for C-41, but the question is untested as far as I know.
C41 is a “normalled” process, so regardless of film speed, brand , and format size, the process is the same. I process mostly 120 film shot with my Pentax 67 as of late.
Randall Stewart interesting you bring that up, I haven’t seen that in any of my b&w stand development myself. I’m interested to see what would cause this. I have noticed uneven development if I skip the agitation stage in either stand development process.
Everyone I have seen that has these issues doesn't agitate at all. I have never seen anyone have issues that agitates.
Thanks!
Depending on how demanding you are over your results, the images to me seem to lack saturation and have a modest blue cast. The problem in making any such judgement about the C-41 stand development process is the images are scanned for final viewing. Therefore, any deviations observed from a C-41 norm might be introduced in the scanning process. So, as he says, you'll have to try it for yourself and judge your own results. Note: skipping a water wash between developer and blix will significantly reduce the number of film rolls you can process before the blix goes bad. Question: What effect, if any, does stand development have on the extended reuse of the developer [number of rolls which can be processed] ???
Hello again, Randall. To answer your question, I can’t tell you how much longer or how shorter the lifespan of the chemistry is because I haven’t done any comparisons between the two methods in that regard. The reason I don’t do a wash between developer and blix is because almost all online resources who talk about stand development for c-41 have advised against it, so I followed suit. Seems to work out just fine, and I have noticed my developer is usually exhausted first anyhow.
Finally, I disagree with your observations about Blue cast. I have gone over these images again and there is definitely a blue cast in the images with very strong Blue subjects, yes. However, there are several examples that are heavily green, yellow, and even pretty damn neutral such as the Coffee image and the one of my friend laughing inside. I dunno, maybe your eyes are better than mine!
Great post. Thank you.
Interesting
true
@@ThePhotoDept I had the thought today. Come on the tube my only social media and was inspired thank you ✌️
who cares about your coffee. I thought this was about C41 development
Imagine leaving this comment on a 7 year old video. Absolutely get a life.