Great tips Matt. I really like the way you put a construction screw behind each hinge on the jamb side. Also, very detailed method for removing the extra drywall when the jamb has to be out out of plumb with the drywall.
Hi I am a finish carpenter contractor & that is a system I use for special circumstances . I use the “EZ hang” system and roll it in place with the “door stud” tool. That way I hang all my doors alone 100% of the time. I hung 3 doors (all pre hung) in less than 2 hours one day? Then last week it took 4 hours to hang one where the was framed way out. So in that case it’s good to know what your teaching ! And all new apprentices should watch this!
Nice job. I've been doing finish carpentry for over 35 years. I was taught a 3/16" reveal on casing. I know some do 1/4", but smaller looks better to me unless it's really large casing & base. Also, I use to do the drywall adjustment the same as you, but in recent years after scoring the drywall I use the oscillating saw and come in from the edge of the drywall and it cuts clean so you don't forever have crumbling drywall falling out from behind the casing. I like your pocket hole miters. Have you seen the Collins edge-pocket tool for mitered casing? You might like it. Also you might want to check out Spencer Lewis from Insider Carpentry if you haven't yet. He uses cam clamps and PUR adhesive for his miters. I bought the clamps but haven't had an opportunity to try his method out yet. Always like learning how other good carpenter do it. You have a nice technique and explained it well. Keep up the good work!
Followup on door installation, before watching your video, then after. Matt, I had 3 pre-hung doors to install. I hung #1, before I viewed your video. I knew about hanging the hinge side first, but had problems getting the reveal-gap even all the way around, plus the door would close, but then “spring back”. It took “for-ever” to get it installed; the door kept binding on the hinge side, and I had to break the frame on the top of strike side to get an 1/8” gap. Obviously I did quite a few things wrong, but I finally got it working. After installing door #1 I came across your video. I followed your steps exactly for door #2, and it worked flawlessly. Perfect installation, in record time (for me). The next day I started door #3. Started out following the steps exactly, but came up with the same problems I had with door #1. I tried numerous adjustments. Every time I tightened the construction screws on the hinge side, the door would bind up. It would close completely, but would “spring” back. I finally got the “spring-back” resolved by loosening the construction screws, then use wedged shims on one side of the hinge-jam only. Previously I had used flat blocks as shims. Evidently, the face of the rough opening was not parallel with the jamb, and when I tightened the construction screws in the jam, the hinge side of the jam was “twisting”, putting the hinge side in a bind. When I install another door, I’ll be sure to make sure the rough opening and jam are parallel… after all, that’s why the shims are tapered, so you can make allowances for warped studs. Lesson learned, the hard way. We don’t live in a straight, level, or true world (and not parallel either). I watched a few of the other videos also, especially the plumbing of a basement bathroom… very detailed explanation of the wet vent and wye connections, as well as water supply layouts.
Thanks for watching, Henry! I've had the same experience that you described, like you mention you need to make sure your jambs are parallel, if anything it is better if your hinge side is tipped in slightly, that way there is no binding.
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Great tips Matt. I really like the way you put a construction screw behind each hinge on the jamb side. Also, very detailed method for removing the extra drywall when the jamb has to be out out of plumb with the drywall.
Thanks for the feedback, Henry! Stay tuned for more!
Hi I am a finish carpenter contractor & that is a system I use for special circumstances .
I use the “EZ hang” system and roll it in place with the “door stud” tool.
That way I hang all my doors alone 100% of the time.
I hung 3 doors (all pre hung) in less than 2 hours one day?
Then last week it took 4 hours to hang one where the was framed way out.
So in that case it’s good to know what your teaching ! And all new apprentices should watch this!
Nice job. I've been doing finish carpentry for over 35 years. I was taught a 3/16" reveal on casing. I know some do 1/4", but smaller looks better to me unless it's really large casing & base.
Also, I use to do the drywall adjustment the same as you, but in recent years after scoring the drywall I use the oscillating saw and come in from the edge of the drywall and it cuts clean so you don't forever have crumbling drywall falling out from behind the casing.
I like your pocket hole miters. Have you seen the Collins edge-pocket tool for mitered casing? You might like it. Also you might want to check out Spencer Lewis from Insider Carpentry if you haven't yet. He uses cam clamps and PUR adhesive for his miters. I bought the clamps but haven't had an opportunity to try his method out yet.
Always like learning how other good carpenter do it. You have a nice technique and explained it well. Keep up the good work!
Followup on door installation, before watching your video, then after.
Matt,
I had 3 pre-hung doors to install. I hung #1, before I viewed your video. I knew about hanging the hinge side first, but had problems getting the reveal-gap even all the way around, plus the door would close, but then “spring back”. It took “for-ever” to get it installed; the door kept binding on the hinge side, and I had to break the frame on the top of strike side to get an 1/8” gap. Obviously I did quite a few things wrong, but I finally got it working.
After installing door #1 I came across your video. I followed your steps exactly for door #2, and it worked flawlessly. Perfect installation, in record time (for me).
The next day I started door #3. Started out following the steps exactly, but came up with the same problems I had with door #1. I tried numerous adjustments. Every time I tightened the construction screws on the hinge side, the door would bind up. It would close completely, but would “spring” back.
I finally got the “spring-back” resolved by loosening the construction screws, then use wedged shims on one side of the hinge-jam only. Previously I had used flat blocks as shims.
Evidently, the face of the rough opening was not parallel with the jamb, and when I tightened the construction screws in the jam, the hinge side of the jam was “twisting”, putting the hinge side in a bind.
When I install another door, I’ll be sure to make sure the rough opening and jam are parallel… after all, that’s why the shims are tapered, so you can make allowances for warped studs. Lesson learned, the hard way. We don’t live in a straight, level, or true world (and not parallel either).
I watched a few of the other videos also, especially the plumbing of a basement bathroom… very detailed explanation of the wet vent and wye connections, as well as water supply layouts.
Thanks for watching, Henry! I've had the same experience that you described, like you mention you need to make sure your jambs are parallel, if anything it is better if your hinge side is tipped in slightly, that way there is no binding.
Have you ever tried 15ga nails for your shimming and jamb install? Seems like it could save you some time.
I use a rasp I used to hammer it? No big deal just quieter with a nice size rasp? Try it u might like it or not ?
Good idea!