All you ever wanted to know about Arcade Buttons
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- Опубликовано: 5 мар 2023
- Below are links to the different buttons in this video. Also i forgot to mention that focus attack sells washers that can be installed in the Seimitsu buttons to dampen the clicking. Sanwa has them built in. I love the click so no need for me . Hope you guys enjoyed this one
Jumper cables for happ buttons to A1up quick connect
www.diyretroarcade.com/produc...
Seitmitsu buttons
focusattack.com/seimitsu-ps-1...
Springs for the Seimitsu are on bottom of screen
I have the highest tension
Industrious Lorenzo joystick
paradisearcadeshop.com/collec...
Crown Buttons ( Focus Attack)
focusattack.com/crown-samduck...
Sanwa products focusattack.com/search.php?se...
Sanwa OBSF-30
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Sanwa OBSF-6piece
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Led Buttons and Accessories
upgradearcade.com/shop/ols/ca...
Led buttons and Joysticks kit ( You can ask for Sanwa joysticks)
arcademodup.com/product/arcad...
The best advice I can give anyone who dislike Happ/iL buttons because of the amount of force required to push the button is to remove the springs. From a Logical standpoint people think that if the button doesn't have a spring, it won't work. This isn't true for those buttons. This is because the microswitch has a spring in it. The Spring in the button itself just gets in the way of awesome. Removing the spring makes the button way more responsive and comparable to any Sanwa, Crown convex etc. by removing the spring you are removing the middle man. Great video about buttons regardless.
Thanks. I dont remember what i said anymore about the buttons but generally i do like different buttons for different appliactions. i only uses sanwa for some fighting games . Many of my cabs now have buttons with heavy springs for a stiffer feel
@@supermetalgamerman5930 In the 90's I didn't mind a stiffer feel...especially for street fighter and MK but nowadays they just don't work for me. It also depends on how far the button has to travel before it engages. With Happ/IL it's just too much with the springs in the button but with no spring is pretty much instant attacks and much kinder to arthritis!
@@AvnerRosenstein-ULTRA-LXV I use happs for the pac man donkey Kong type games
And I play a lot of console stuff
On arcade cabs and for those I like the stiffer feel because you don’t have to press them so fast in most games but yes for fighters def sanwa style
I really can’t thank you enough for that advide. I was about to return my new fightstick because I didn't like how the buttons felt, but I removed the springs, and now it's much better. Thank you!
Excellent 😊
Thank you!😊
lol i felt you on the " i feel like i can just hover over them and it will press". i just put in new sanwa and thats how i feel about them. ill barely touch the side of the button and it will register. and i just installed them on the mayflash f500 v2 lol which i see you have as well. wtf are the chances of that. just switched out my buttons and joystick for sanwa today its an f500 v2 mayflash like yours and i felt the same exact way about the buttons today and this video pops up for me to watch. crazy shit.
You forgot the BEST buttons for Rapid-Fire Classic Arcade games: Leaf-Switch buttons. Try playing a game like "Halleys Comet" in Mame, with typical Microswitch buttons. In Halleys Comet, the game rewards you for maintaining a certain maximum sustained rate of fire. You will be able to get a LOT more powerups, as a result... IF you can keep that rate up. The problem? Typical Microswitches have a high-spring resistance, for the initial Snap based activation, to occur. They also tend to have about 3 MM of total travel. The heavy microswitch resistance, causes a LOT of fatigue to your fingers, in a relatively short amount of time. While that is no real issue, when playing a fighting game... it is a HUGE issue, when trying to play a Non-Stop rapid fire games.. like Haleys Comet, Asteroids Deluxe, and even when playing extended sessions of Galaga...
Now... here is the thing... Many Japanese Microswitches have much lighter activation forces. As such, they will be a bit easier to maintain a rapid fire rate, with LESS fatigue. But the Japanese buttons suffer from something else: Accidental Presses. If they are Too Sensitive, you are far more likely to press them on accident. Furthermore... if you cant allow your fingers to simply REST on the buttons without accidentally pressing them... you also create additional Stress related Fatigue, trying to keep your fingers / hand "Hovering" right above the buttons. This could also lead to a Carpel Tunnel like injury.. because the muscles have to always be "On".
How Leaf buttons change the Game:
First, there are long travel, and short travel leaf buttons. Make sure to get the longer travel leaf buttons, for Rapidfire game use. You would think that the longer the travel... the slower your responses... right? This is where you will be mistaken. You see... a Leafswitch is merely two pieces of "Spring-Steel" that are very close together. The thing is... Once you make the two touch each other... you can sort of "VIBRATE" them to "Connect and Disconnect"... and they only break contact.. by less than a sheet of papers distance apart, between them. And... in order to make and break connection rapidly.. it takes almost ZERO physical effort at all. A literally "Feathers Touch". This is why I call this technique "FEATHERING".
But then... if leafs were so easily triggered... wouldnt there be an issue with Accidental Presses? Leaf Buttons solve this, by having a longer Vertical Travel length. The first few mm of travel, will not even cause the leafs to touch. This allows the button-return-spring... to comfortably hold your resting fingers, on top of the buttons, without accidentally pressing them. HOWEVER... if you give the button about 2 more MM of travel.. you cause the Leafs to touch, and activate. You still probably have another 2 to 3 mm worth of travel, to "Bottom Out" the button. That said... once your leafs make contact.. you intentionally keep them at this level... and vibrate them at that height... without fully Bottoming out the button (never pressing the button fully down. merely spring-boarding it in the center, with quick and light "feathering" vibrations)
Since you dont have to fully bottom out the button to get it to fire... you also do not get the typical Click Noises, nor do you suffer from constant Impact based Fatigue, to your finger tips. You also do not have to wait for bottom "rebounding", in order to fire off the button again. This makes it MUCH faster, and far less fatiguing, for constant rapidfire usage. You also get a much more comfortable and QUIET gaming session.
Now... Leaf-Switch Buttons, and Leaf-Switch Joysticks.. are NOT the best option for ALL game types. For example... do not use them for fighting games. In fighting games, you NEED that click feedback, to know exactly if and when you have "Activated" a button / directional press. This is critical to your "Timings", for things like Dragon Punches to be performed, without any issues.
Also, with Leaf Sticks, you might accidentally not hit a perfect Diagonal... or might accidentally trigger a jump / diagonal on accident.
That said... Wico Leafsticks are the ONLY way to do well in a game of Robotron. They have much less "Stick Travel" than Microswitch joysticks.. allowing for much faster dodging. And in Robotron.. that is super critical.. because projectiles move at Lightning speeds... and you are often narrowly dodging them by a mere Pixels distance. In Robotron, most of your movements are in large diameter circular walking paths. As such, your movements are not hyper-critical. Where as with fighters, you need 100% flawless directionals, which coordinate with the precise button timing.
The other Positive things about Leaf based Sticks... mirrors Leaf Buttons. They are pretty much Silent... even when you slam the sticks as Harshy as possible. They have a unique Rubber Centering Grommet... which makes them smooth and gooey... and helps to greatly reduce any Impact based noises, impact vibrations, and noises. As such, they FEEL so much better to your hands... and your very soul feels so much better... that you are not constantly hearing (and feeling) the "Clickity Clack" or Micros... nor the hard plastic impacts from typical End-Of-Travel collisions, with microswitch based joysticks.
So... my advice is to add at least ONE long-travel leaf-button, on your control panel layout. I would tend to use a straight dual 6 buttons layout, like the original SFII cabinets... but then add the leaf button diagonally downwards from the 6 button layout, closer to the stick... similar to the Run button on MK3 (just a little closer, if memory serves correct).
This will allow you the Option to use Feathering on many Classic Arcade games... as well as to still have Microwitch snapping feedback, for fighters.
As for the sticks... you can place two sticks almost vertically on top of each other (a slight diagonal placement, is best), allowing you to grasp and use either one of them... with the same button layout. That will allow you to have the ability to use the comfortable + Silent Leaf sticks, for classics like Robotron, without any Compromise.
Additional Notes:
Realize, that certain modern Shops sell "Modern" versions of Short-Travel leaf buttons + Leaf sticks. The issue with the modern versions... is that they are WAY too sensitive, even if you drastically stretch out the buttons return spring. This means that you wont be able to rest your fingers comfortably on the buttons, without accidentally pressing them. Also, because they have short travel... every press will Bottom-Out the button... and thus you will get the added Noises, as well as the Impact based Fingertip fatigue.. and the time + distance for each Button Return. You likely wont be to "Feather" these modern short travel Leafswitch buttons.
The other thing to realize, is that Leaf Switches have a certain Lifespan. Eventually, the leafs will start to lose their same level of Springy-Ness. This is typically the case, when you buy used arcade controls, that have a few decades worth of use on them. When the leafs start to lose their spring levels.. they often will end up bending too far outwards... and even when you bend them back... they wont STAY bent. They will keep extending past their intended distances... and they wont react properly.. and they also often end up getting mechanically "Stuck" as a result. As such, you will have to purchase brand new Leafs for your leafswitch controls. I believe these are still mfg., as they use a lot of them in Pinball machines... and other mechanical equipment.
Also, leafswitches are out in the Open... and they tend to get Dirty Contact pads, as a result. Use some alcohol to clean them every few months or so. You can also place a business card between the leafs, squeeze the leafs together... as you pull the card through them... and it will drag the grime off of the contacts, onto the cards surface.
And finally... I might not be a high level Competition fighter... but I grew up playing many fighting games in US Cabinets... which all had Happ Competition Joysticks, and Happ Concave microswitch buttons. I never had any issues playing, while using these controls, in the Arcade... and against some fairly Fierce competition. My favorites being Killer Instinct 1, and Tekken 3. MK3 / Ultimate was also fun at times too... but by that time period, I didnt have a lot of time available to learn + play that game. I especially LOVE concave shaped buttons, as the are far more comfy for your fingers to rest within... and to help keep your fingers Centered within the correct button (without slipping off of them, nor hitting the side-edges of the buttons on accident).
I have also come to HATE those that have made Curved button layout. Your keyboard keys are not curved... and your buttons should not be curved either. You lose track of where buttons are like that... and... you lose mechanical advantage from having your hand lay FLAT... rather than with bent fingers directly OVER the top of the buttons. Furthermore, every hand shape.. when laid flat... will be different, due to different finger lengths. However, when your fingers are bent, they can easily adapt to dual straight line button alignments. Just like anyone can type on a standard keyboard, without any issues.
Wow thanks for all that
Maybe I will try the leaf buttons
I’m a control panel that I use for my lap connected to a rasberry pi
I used left side for a 360 wheel set up but I have right side ( player 2 completely free )
Do you know where I can purchase the classic leaf buttons rather than modern ?
@@supermetalgamerman5930 I used to get mine from used classic arcade control panels... off of ebay. Often times, you could get NOS (new old stock) arcade controls / buttons... from Operators that closed up their Routes / Businesses.
That said, I think certain Pinball leaf buttons, might still be Long Travel leafs.
You should be able to tell visibly, as short travel leaf buttons look like the same button height as Happs concave microswitch buttons. Where as long travel leaf buttons have taller button actuators.
With Leafswitch buttons, you will need all of the parts of it. Sometimes they are Sold Separately. You have the main button itself (button, shell, and the return spring). Then there is the LeafSwitch Holder, which is the button screws into + holds the leafswitch. Then there is the leafswitch itself. Also, there contacts that can be replaced on each leafswitch (though, most people would just replace the entire leaf, rather than just replace worn contacts. In a home use setting... its likely a leaf will last longer than you. As arcade use, was often +12 hrs of constant operational abuses, 7 days a week)
Sadly, all of the Arcade controllers that I once had collected over the years... got stolen out of my minivan. =[ The only thing I have left, were a few Leafswitch Joysticks, that I had already brought into the Apartment.
I used to have Pole Position Steering wheels, Analog Pedals, 6 way Shifters, Trackballs, Spinners, Tron trigger sticks, Rotary Sticks, and much more (Cry).
I also USED to have a bunch of real arcade machines... like an Asteroid Deluxe (had to sell them all off). I believe my Asteriods Deluxe, had all Long Travel Leaf buttons... and it was Glorious, once I got the hang of it. I really miss that machine. That and Spy Hunter, were my two top Favorites, that I use to own.
Nothing can beat the real controls of a Spy Hunter wheel.. which is specifically designed to be Slammed as fast and hard as possible... In order to counteract the Armored Cars that try to slam into you. The game actually calculates both their energy vectors, and yours... and based on the result, is whom ends up getting pushed.. and how Far you or them get pushed. If you dont slam them hard and fast as possible... the Baddies will always win, and force you off the road.. crashing to a fiery deth.
Hey quick question. I managed to procure two of Sanwa's OBSA-45UK buttons. They're actually buttons used in rhythm games. They have an LED holster and an Omron switch like the American style button assemblies you showed at the beginning of the video with the fork wire connections. Since you have the experience installing these American/iL style buttons like this, do you happen to know what you had to do to stop the underside with the LED holster and the cherry switch from falling off the whole assembly?
Okay I figured it out, it just looks like I just had to push down really hard. >u
New sub thanks I'm building my own arcade machine
Try the Seimitsu buttons with a heavy spring from focus attack . Love them . Just get one first to see if you like it
@@supermetalgamerman5930 do u have a link to it with that joystick that springs on your video
I just added the link to the description. I didn’t install those joysticks but I know they are IL sticks . I just installed sanwa sticks and switched to 4lb springs and they feel good as well but these feel like arcade sticks . I have a test control panel I use sometimes . Maybe I’ll do an instillation video next week but I think it’s easy enough .
24 mm vs 30 mm button qanba which is best and whats the difference >?
Different sizes
That’s all
24 mm is pretty small for a full size cab
Long, Long, LONG ago I worked in a Bally's Aladdins' Castle...nearly every machine (this was in 1985-1986) was running on Happ style buttons and leaf switches. They had great action and speed, and no click...at least -the only noise I recall was from the plunger bottoming out with a gorilla playing it. The only buttons I knew of with microswitches were the Player 1 / Player 2 Atari "Volcano" switches with LEDs inside. I was watching this with interest as I am building a cab right now and trying to decide what I want in buttons and actions...Anyway - the Happ controls did not need a spring because the leaf spring/switch provided the return. Seems all the current "hot arcade" buttons are microswitch based and I get it - you can get different "feels" and can add springs to lighten/quicken keypresses - I just hate the clickety noise - I guess all the fighting games made these super popular?
I saw on the focus attack website that they sold something for sanwa I believe , could be for others too
But it’s something dampen the sound of the click . I personally love that sound though . I come from mostly console playing growing up where you get no sound
So the clicks were different for me
I have some cheap Led buttons I’m going to be upgrading soon
Squeaky
That’s the sound that kills me
@@supermetalgamerman5930 - Squeaky becuz of the plungers? What makes 'em squeak? Agree - that WOULD be annoying.
@@jcinsaniac cheepo plastic
For Classic 80s arcade games.. you want Long-Travel leafswitch buttons. They feel the best... they are silent, and you can get much faster Rapidfire responses with them, with almost ZERO fatigue, with a technique called "Feathering". You can read about this in my more detailed response, in the comment section, above your reply.
I worked in a Namco owned Arcade in the 90s. By that time we still had a handful of games that had original Leafswitches in them. However, for fighting games.. they had the new Happs Microswitch sticks + Microswitch Buttons. They were much easier to maintain, as Micros never needed cleaning, and they could last several years worth of play, without issue.
That said... for a Game like Galaga... you just get Far too much Fatigue, to play that game with Microswitches. I had foolishly replaced the leafs on that game, as back then, I was largely Ignorant to the benefits of Leafs. Eventually I changed it back, especially since many people complained about it (including one of the other employees).
That said... if you want to play fighting games.. you really NEED to use microswitches. They give you Tactile and Auditory Feedback, which is Critical to your timings of various combinations of movements and button presses. Those games are a lot more Critical of timing... and so if you are off by a mere fraction of a second... your special move wont be executed.
The best compromise is to add at least One leaf-switch button on your Control Panel.. and possible a 2nd Leafswitch stick, diagonal to a microswitch based stick (so your wrist can reach either stick, easily).
The "Later ERA" Japanese arcades tended to have different arcade controls, and different cabinets. Most of their cabs ended up being Plastic shells, that you could easily swap in different games. These were also lighter, easier to move, and they often had seating + much larger sized monitors. I believe this was in fact, started by the popularity of Fighter games like Street Fighter 2.
Most of the US Arcades, kept using dedicated Wooden Cabinets, and generic Happ created arcade controllers.
@@johndough8115 Thanks! - This is fantastic info and totally in line with what I recall. Yes, cleaning long leafs was a PITA but necessary from time to time...I am mostly leaning to games like Asteroids, where getting a tight group of shots (not a LINE of shots) is important...there were several games that the spring fatigue factor is crucial - most of the Atari vector games, Track n Field, Gyruss, Pleiades all benefited from leafs in good condition - The fighting games came along after I changed over to home gaming with the lone exception being Karate Champ - but I thought KC was two sticks and the only button was for P1/P2 and maybe there was a Kick button? I missed out on Mortal Kombat and Killer Instinct and that genre - so, I don't value/understand the microswitch obsession until you better explained it. If you have an opinion on the quality of the "Goldleaf" style switches - that's what I am leaning toward - Ultimarc Ultimate I/O and RGB Goldleafs for the 6 buttons. Cheers!
i got that the worst from pacman