Ford Fiesta ST (mk7) - how to replace front and rear brakes
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- This video shows you how I replace the brakes, pads and discs all round, on my 2013 Fiesta ST.
It is not intended to be an instruction video, you may have your own preferred technique, method or tools.
If you do attempt this yourself be sure you know what you are doing, brakes are an important safety item, DO NOT ATTEMPT IT UNLESS YOU ARE COMFORTABLE AND COMPETENT TO DO SO.
My trackday and vlogging kit;
Lavalier microphone : amzn.to/2EZSbWp
Zoom H1 audio recorder : amzn.to/2WjxWJ3
Pedal & windscreen cameras : amzn.to/2WQWzkS
Cabin camera : amzn.to/2WwwCaI
Headrest camera mount : amzn.to/2KFJ5Sa
GoPro suction cup mount : amzn.to/2WvjORQ
Ball-joint GoPro mount : amzn.to/31jHI1t
Sony FDR-AX33 b-roll camera : amzn.to/2EXvVfH
Rode Videomic b-roll microphone : amzn.to/2WW4Ofe
Gorillapod tripod : amzn.to/2WuP9En
Rear dashcam : amzn.to/2Wt3YHJ
Tyre pressure gauge : amzn.to/2K4hnPz
Driving gloves : amzn.to/2WNjUDW
You can also find me at / markcup70
![300HP FORD FIESTA ST MK7 REVIEW on AUTOBAHN [NO SPEED LIMIT!] by AutoTopNL](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/iAfPvdkyKsE/mqdefault.jpg)
00:15 Tools and lifting the car
01:28 Rear brakes
12:08 Front brakes
5 cameras for a brake change. Respect. Nice tutorial. Thank you.
Thanks Ryan! I wanted this to be the go-to video for the masses of ST owners so no corner was cut when it came to video production. Having said that, and having learned so much more about video editing since I uploaded this, I now think it's terrible and could have been so much better!
Loosen wheel nuts 1/4 turn before jacking up the car. This prevents you swearing when you find the guy who fitted your tyres used a 1000 foot pound air tool to tighten your front wheel nuts. It's much easier to deal with tight front wheel nuts with the weight of the car on the wheel, and handbrake on, than with the wheel off the ground and spinning every time you try to loosen the nuts.
Good video and well explained. How ever as a Volvo technician myself (rear brakes are 100% the same as this) you really should be cleaning up the calliper carrier and greasing it along with the new pads to prevent them from getting stuck. Also you should be torquing up the calliper carrier bolts as the length of the ratchet you used would not have done them tight enough along with the callipers aswell.
Exactly why I hate doing it my self. Trying not to transfer any copper slip to the disk surface is a massive phaf and always best left to the professionals easy job or not. There was a huge short cut made in this video.
Cheers from USA. I'm anothing Molten Orange, MP215 owner. Just wanted to stop in and say thanks for your video, I couldn't have changed my pads and rotors without it!
Thanks Chip! Glad I could help :D
I was debating having my friend do my new pads for me but after seeing this im definitely going to do them myself. Great video with loads of different angels covered and i even know what to do when i change the discs at some point too. Thanks for posting :)
Go for it Carter, there's nothing at all to be afraid of!
Thank you for making this video. 2016 FiST here in the good ol US of A. 96k miles on stratified 93 tune and love it.
Glad I could help! Truth be told I'd have one of these cars again in a heartbeat 👍
Lifesaver sir. My son was quoted £360 for disks and pads fitted by Ford. I told him not to be so daft and crack open the spanners. Full set of Mintex pads and discs £110.
Thanks for your comments Mark. It makes all of the effort filiming and editing worthwhile knowing someone's really benefitted from it, I'm glad you found it useful!
You are so welcome. We had a great time figuring it all out, great father son time and a chance for him to see how it all fits together.
Again great video and you have a pleasant voice to listen to. Some important things though, I always clean the caliper with compressed air and I clean the rubber around the piston with soap then I apply ATE grease to the rubber to prevent it from drying out too early, you should also add ATE plastilube onto the new break pads and onto the top of the piston inside the caliper. I would also clean the wheel hub with a wire metal brush followed by ceramic high temp resistant grease or copper grease.
You also need to clean and put special heat resistant grease on the guding pins, ATE Plastilube will be fine.
This video was awesome. I figured I could figure it out without issue but this made it much faster. I appreciate your help in making my job easier!
I glad you found it useful Sheldon, thanks for watching.
So many people have commented on how he forgot to say to loosen/remove the brake fluid reservoir cap. It's literally like one of the first things he says in the video. Lord have mercy folks. Pay attention. This a great tutorial! You just have to be willing to pay attention to the entire thing, not just parts of it.
thanks a lot for this videoguide! my st200 is on 25000 km now and i was pretty shocked, that the disks got so rusty after it started to rain more in autumn. but as i saw your video i was pretty relieved, that this seems to be normal on the st (i got the st200, but i think the brakes are the same). driving much more relaxed now :)
at 11:35min you press the brake pedal, with the rear caliper piston rotates in or out you're better off fitting and torqueing up the wheel first before pressing the brake pedal, not an issue on the fronts because the piston simply push in or out.
Also good practise to apply some ceratec grease on the pad tabs/lugs.
Good to see some modern cars stick with nice simple brakes! Unlike some manufacturers that like to use special tools/bits just to make it more fun.. Or even require the proper dealer software just to rewind the piston!
I've always found chucking a wheel nut back on with the new disc makes putting the carrier etc back on so much easier - just a thought :)
I'm embarrassed to say I've never even thought of doing that Michael...good suggestion...thank you!
Good video!
Just my 0.02, instead of the zip ties (a valuable resource for car work to be sure) you could use a wire hangar to hold the front (and rear) calipers by bending it through the slot in the caliper and hooking it to the spring. That's what I've always done.
That's a good suggestion, however, I would personally prefer the cable tie option as I think they'd probably be a little less likely to permanently mark the red painted calipers.
oh, good point. hadn't thought about the calipers. suppose you could wrap the hangar in tape. I'll have to think about that as I plan to paint my calipers red.
do they even sell wire hangers anymore? not in america
Excellent video I have exactly the same car and colour and the same job to do you video has made my life so much easier thank you for posting.
Will maintain my st as much as possible on my own thanks to your video 👍👏👏
Before you wind back the brake caliper you need to open the bonnet and take the cap of the brake reservoir otherwise you can damage the seals in the master cylinder then you will have to spend out again, please note when this is done fill up with brake fluid and then pump the peddle to make sure you have brakes once the brakes pads are finished.
my favorite tool, and I think everyone favorite tool, is the ratchet spanner. whoever invented deserves a gold medal.
I could not agree more. I've only recently got a full set of them...already I can't bear to think how much of a PITA simple jobs like these would be without them!
Dylan Knight the only thing better are passthrough socket wrenches... let's you put an Allan key or a screwdriver through it
Seabirds were a bit chatty, eh? Great walk-through video, I'm doing mine this week and this video was a huge help.
Ha ha, yes, they can get a bit LOUD at times LOL
Glad you found it useful :D
A very helpful video that you've created. I like the way you've been thorough to video the minor details.
Thank you for this video! Great instructions, did mine for the MOT and it passed! 😁 thanks again 👍
One tip, you only really need to clean the rust proofing from the actual braking friction surfaces. It can be handy to leave on the non-braking surfaces to prevent rust.
Thanks for the reply Mark. About 3 hard stops and they gave up the ghost. Very noisy, virtually no braking or bite.
The original motorcraft ones seemed much better. May have to try yellowstuff or Ds2500 but worried about the cold bite driving to work.
I have also recently upgraded to Peron stage 1+ (225bhp/265ft/lbs) so could also be the extra power.
Give the YellowStuff a try. I loved them on track (although they only lasted one full day at Goodwood) and on the few road miles I covered they had plenty of normal temperature bite.
The other good thing about them is they are cheap (bin them if you don't like them) and they, for me anyway, produced absolutely no brake dust at all that stuck to my wheels!
They're well worth a shot.
When you run the brake caliper back in are you supposed to loosen the brake fluid cap first?
jim carson your supposed to take it off yes
Great vid, informativeand clear..just bought my mountune 215 st2 and will need to do pads for a track day or two later this year so this was perfect
Great video! Looks very well thought out. I love the go pro army you use lol!
Great informative video, well done. Was following you step by step while watching you.
brake lube on the slider pins? Life goes all bad if you don't do that...
Video on slider pin replacement and lubrication will follow soon!
Superb video. Thank you for making it.
Awesome tutorial - Thank you
Should always remember to temporarily remove the brake fluid reservoir cap when pressing the caliper pistons back in. That gives the brake fluid somewhere to go.
dont worry the fluid will ooze out through the cap and onto everything
Hugely appreciated thank you
Really good tutorial, very easy to follow. Thanks
Love that color 😁 great informative video.
Thank you so much for this video, you have given me the confidence to do this myself. One question though, whats with all the springs and boot assemblies I see when pricing up the brake sets online? I have this same car and didnt see any of that equipment.
No mention that theres a little nib on the back of the pad and you have line up the piston so it goes in one of the four holes or all the pressure goes on that nib and you will get uneven back wear on the inside of the disc
Great video, thank you very for making it!!!!
Great video! Thx! No ATE plastilube on the hooks of the break pads? As well as on the bracket? The only way to prevent squeaking...... Not wise to press the break pedal with the brake fluid reservoir still open...... The fluid will most likely spill over into the engine bay.
You might want to use some break clean to remove the grease on the rear brake after you mounted them, meaning once again before you mount the wheel.
Thanks for the video bro, very simple and informative
Thanks for the feedback and glad I could help!
13:41 *Your front brake pads lasted only 200 miles???*
Correct! I bedded them in for 100 miles commuting on the road for a week and then went hard on them around Goodwood circuit. By the end of that day they were toast!
great vid brother! thanks!!
Great video; I posted it on the fiestastforum and it is much appreciated. No mention of the front pad clips, though??? I did my rears (did have a seized pin) and am about to do the fronts; hoping the clips are straightforward as I know the front motorcraft pads include new clips. Seems to me there is also something marked on the pads: inside/outside?
You're the first to mention those two things...complete oversight on my part that I didn't mention them! I've been beating myself up ever since the video went live that I missed them out. I think most have managed to work those parts out as they've not been commented on before. Thanks for sharing and keep enjoying your car!
Just a suggestion but it might be useful to list the tools in The description as well. Other than that this is an excellent video. Thanks!
great video !
I heard that they not selling the mr230 at the moment as have manufacturing issues with the cat back.. had the mp215 fitted
I have a couple of thoughts, First the main reason I do my own brakes. How much money did it cost you to do that job? and more importantly is how much money did you save from what a shop was going to charge you? The US they want 153 bucks for front pads so this time I bought from a auto parts store and I saved a hundred. Thanks for a great video.
Hi nice video , could you do video on were to jack as i cannot find jacking points done brakes on different cars
No can do Ross, I've not owned this car since March 17. Sorry!
No problem thanks for replying
THANKS very clear and helpful.
This is the second time I've returned LOL. I'm just getting cheaper over time I guess. First I did rears, then a shop did fronts, now I got all 4 in the garage to be changed today.
Good work...and comments like yours are the exact reason I spent a weekend making this video. It's not tricky to do, no one should be afraid of doing it, and you get to learn things in the process!
@@MarkCup70 Thanks, your video is such a massive help. Once you do one or two (and get used to things) it's super easy. I realized that I may not have noticed a stuck caliper pin so I'll have to check this weekend. Since I fixed one when replacing the discs, I know what to do. Knowledge is addictive!
I recently had new brake pads and rotors fitted to my ST by a dealership. They also don't bleed the lines when they fit, but I've got no idea exactly what their method is. Probably similar, but I wonder how carefully...
Since the initial fit, and even after a master cylinder bleed with an ABS cycle (done by Ford dealer) the pedal still feels too soft, with little action at the top - nothing like it was on the factory fitted brake set. I'm due another visit to the dealer to ask them to rectify the fault, I'll be interested to see if the brakes need bleeding AGAIN.
have you ever had the parking brake stop working after changing the pads? I followed this video exactly and the parking brakes barely works now. The brakes work perfectly when using the pedal though.
Great video dude. No bullshit, great content. I'm considering these same discs and pads from eurocarparts and mintex. What's your thoughts now having used them?
Great video - I followed this and managed to do my back brakes.
One thing I didn't spot was where the handbrake adjustment is, any ideas?
I couldn't say Scott, I only ever had the handbrake adjusted once and the Ford dealership did it for me.
Did you ever figure out how to get the parking brake tightened back up?
Dylan ik im a bit late but with this style you don’t have to adjust them manually, the parking brake uses the normal pads
Hi Mark, great video! I was about to change the brake pads on mine.
So you don't like the EBC yellow stuff? The 200 miles you mentioned was all track use?
Thanks a lot!
I do like the Yellowstuff pads, for track use I think they are superb...but they don't last long.
I can't comment on them as road pads as there was nothing left after the trackday!
Thanks for the video, one question, why didn’t you bleed your brake lines? Seeing as you pushed the piston in air could enter the system, just curious as someone said to bleed them ?
I wouldn't think air could enter the system by pushing the pistons back in. It's forcing the brake fluid back out the system to the reservoir. That's why you remove the cap when doing this.
What happens if after doing the front brakes the brake pedal isn't nice and firm? I switched from stock pads to HPS 5.0, which are supposed to have less initial bite but they feel like non performance pads right now. Hopefully as it beds in more it will improve, I think I noticed a little improvement so far.
I noticed you didn't do any bleeding of the brakes once you put new pads and brakes on? Is this not necessary? I will only need to pump the brake pedal to make sure it's firm
Awesome video, well done mate 👍🏻
Is there any adjustment for the anti rattle clips? My ST is on pagid discs and pads and they rattle when braking gently. Took it back to garage who “adjusted the shims”. Rattle stopped for a few weeks and has now returned. Very frustrating.
Very nice
Hi Mark. Thankyou for posting this video and also the slider renewal one. Both were really helpful. My Mp215 has done 30k but I changed to Brembo pads all around with the ATE blue fluid and gave the calipers a lick if red paint. I bought a sealey rear caliper winder tool but it didn't really fit properly so was a nightmare. Do you know the correct measurement (pcd) for the correct caliper tool?
Hi Dave. I'm glad you found the videos useful! I'm not sure of the measurement off hand...but I know that I needed no adaptor on the wind back tool and as it came it fitted and engaged with the piston just fine. I'll measure it today and will report back.
Hi again Dave. PCD of the two lugs on my wind back tool is 22mm exactly. I hope that helps.
Thank you for your video! I'm going to try it myself. You use Brembo pads all around, how are they for a sporadic to moderate track use compared to stock and compared to the ebc yellow?
Thank you for detailed video, Mark. I own ST 2016 in the same color. One question regards front brake pads. In the video you used Brembo P24072, but this set is not compatible with ST. This set is for cars with rear drum brakes. Moreover, they are smaller then original brake pads. Did you use them as an example or really drive with this set?
hi mark! i’m just wondering if you received any “brake squeel” from these discs and pads? i’m having a hard time finding pads and discs that don’t squeel! thanks for the video though, definitely easier than i thought!!
Hi Mark, thanks for the video! Been greasing up the sliders as the rear brakes are seized and the guide shows how simple the rear brakes actually are to work on. However, part of the rear pads fell off once the caliper was removed (are backing plates part of the pad usually or separate? As im presuming this is the bit that fell off - looks like a backing plate/anti squeal plate anyway) Thanks! Matthew :)
That does sound like the anti-squeal plate. If you look in this video at 9:45 you can clearly see it on the back of the pad as I drop the new ones in, however, they are usually atttached. Not on my ST but on previous cars I have known them to detach. If in doubt I recommend you fit a new set of pads...they're not expensive (£39 IIRC) so better to be safe than sorry! 👍
MarkCup70 thats great Mark cheers! Hope you well? Rear brakes are still slighty seized, however I have greased the sliders and they slide great now, filed the pads and pad sitting locations, so im not sure now what could be causing the binding, as neither rear wheels spin properly.
I have a important question: How big does my profile need to be on the brake pads and rotors, with other words when do I need to change the pads and rotors front and rear?
This tutorial is AWESOME!!! I own a US spec FiST and I wanna tackle this brake swap myself. Do you know if its the same exact setup in our US spec cars?
I'm fairly sure it is Ray, I've never heard of any differences between US and Euro spec cars. Have a visual check first, make sure you have all the right tools to hand and go for it...It really is a straightforward process. I'm glad I could help!
MarkCup70 cool man...i def be back to thank you when I do it!
MarkCup70 how many inches is that G clamp?
I think it's 5 inches Ray. I'll check when I get home tonight and let you know for sure.
Thank you!
Once the rear was done was any adjustment of the handbrake required and if so how....thanks
Was just wondering where you positioned the jackstands underneath the car exactly?
Hi Mark! great video, very well explained and the only ST video on RUclips, thankyou!
one quick question, could you please link me to the Ebay page for the Piston Rewind tool that you used in the video, i have seen many on Ebay but im worried about buying the wrong one! thanks again
Thanks Nick Jr!
Any of the generic 22 piece kits available will do it. If my wind back tool broke tomorrow I'd go and buy item no. 141707534660
Ah yes the 22 piece kit..done and ordered, I look forward to my little project Thank you very much!
Hi i just did this for rear brakes and it was pretty hard to put the new pads on. Now while driving its braking constantly without applying pressure on the brake pad. Its not much but the discs are hot and i dunno if this is ok and Will wear out soon or if i assembled something wrong... Any tips?
I like your video 💪👍
The bolts which come with the pads, are these replacements for the carrier and calliper bolts?
What kind of breakpads do you recommend for trackdays for fiesta st200 (2016)? Thank you all!
When slowly winding back the front right piston using the g clamp my piston housing became damp with brake fluid ( assuming brake fluid was pushing past the o-ring ), rang ford and they say the caliper needs replacing. Seen comments elsewhere saying they see a slight leak every-time they push back the piston and also others say they never see a leak, also some say they open the bleed valve before pushing back the piston to try and avoid putting too much pressure on the o-ring. Was wondering what your opinion would be on these points, thanks.
Hi Ady. In all my time replacing single piston floating caliper pads/discs I've never once had any fluid leak from the piston seals when pushing the piston back in. With the cap loosened on the fluid resevoir in the engine bay it's always worked for me without issue. I accept that loosening the bleed nipple is perhaps the best way to do it as that way you're not forcing fluid back through the brake pedal master cylinder into the resevoir. Why don't I do that? To avoid getting air into the system that would then mean a bleed is necessary...it's very easy for air to get into the system once the bleed nipple is loose. I have a friend with a Fiesta ST and am planning a bleed and fluid change instruction video in the next month or so. As for your piston seals and Ford saying you need new calipers...I think you could get away with just replacing the seals. I've not done that myself before but reasearching online it seems a fairly straightforward job, just take your time, use the correct tools and some good quality seals/o-rings. Good luck with getting this fixed and thanks for watching!
Hello there! What experience have you made with brake discs? I'm going to replace brake lines, fluid and pads to get a better performance but I was told to get normal discs. What do you recommend?
great vid!!!
hey mark, could you tell me what parts number your brake pads are in the front? i ordered my Brembo set but they didn't fit at all, it had the number P24 072 however i found out that there is also a brake pad set with parts number P24 151, is this the right one?
Good job dude
Hi mark, what pads would you recommend for road use and the track day on the Fiesta ST?
Great video. Did i miss you replacing the brake hose retaining bracket on the rear? Also, can a G clamp be used on the rear piston or does it have to be the special tool?
I’ve used G-clamp on all corners
If you're only replacing pads is it safe to assume that the caliper bracket doesn't need to be removed? you can just remove the old pads, slip the new ones in and re-attatch the caliper assembly?
Absolutely Benny, it makes the job only half as long, just remove the piston assembly, old pads out, new ones in, get the piston back in, then reassemble.
You'll need to take a little more care when bedding them in though as the disc will have slight grooves and wear in it from the old pads so the new ones won't contact the disc fully and completely for a good few miles.
bit late to the party I know, but I changed both front & back as per video, gave it a road test & nearly overshot a junction only doing 5mph! How long did yours need bedding in? Feel like putting the old ones back on!
Not at all Mike! I've had that before, it could be anything from different pad compound, contaminents on the disc, or just not pressing the pedal hard enough 😉 I didn't mention it as such in the video but I've always gone out for a drive, to a local quiet stretch of road, and just worked new pads and discs hard for a good few stops, gradually building the pressure and speed, while allowing them to cool between runs. Do that a few times and I'm sure they'll come in for you 👍
@@MarkCup70 I had the same problem after a dealer changed my brakes and discs - ruined the brake response, all the sharp servo assistance was gone. Felt like the pads were miles away from the discs and had the efficiency of drum brakes. I initially blamed the Motorcrafts dealership 1 fitted, but after dealership 2 did a change of fluid, brake lines (HEL braided) AND fitted EBC Yellowstuffs all round .... Very minimal difference.
Subsequently bled the fronts myself, and an ABS bleed cycle with FORScan, no different. I can't figure whether the first brake change somehow damaged either the master cylinder, brake servo or the ABS module -- or the front pistons are somehow being over-retracted. A double-tap of the brakes makes them more responsive, but still not as good as they first were. Pedal travel needs to be longer than it used to be for same braking force. If I just push the pedal once, with light braking I get _terrible_ caliper / clip rattle until I brake more firmly. This never happened with the factory set, first change it started and a subsequent change plus new clips didn't improve it. So frustrating.
I've driven someone else's ST with the same problem, apparently after a pad change. I've owned two of these STs from new but my current one is the first I had pads changed on. Both STs from the factory had razor sharp braking from first touch of the pedal.
Did your braking feel, specifically pedal response, never really change throughout the life of your car? (compound difference aside) - did you always change brakes yourself, and did you always use the same method? I know you've had a couple of cars since the ST but I'm keen to know if you ever had any problem with the ABS module, calipers or master cylinder/servo.
I’m so jealous…we never got the 3DR MK7 Fiesta ST in the states 😭 I hope you all are aware how lucky you are lol
I just bought EBC yellow stuff pads! Are they no good or were you beating the shit out of them to make them do that? I certainly hope for more than 200 miles from mine. Also fantastic video I hope you do all sorts of videos on maintaining this car.
That was from a trackday Blake...fitted the weekend before, bedded in on my commute for 5 days then reduced to the backing plates in 130 miles of track use. They're a great pad otherwise, cheap, good pedal feel, fade resistant and all with very little dust on the wheels.
Would you recommend them brembo disks and pads? Or should I go for pagid?
thanks for your video, very useful , i've just changed my pads and rotors on my fiesta st and i'd like to ask you since i did it i have a bit of fading....did you have it too when you did it on your car? thanks from france ;-)
Hi Greg. I didn't have fade immediately after...but I did take time to bed in the new discs and pads properly. How many miles did you cover after fitting the new pads and discs before you experienced the brake fade?
in fact i've just installed the new rotors and pads so i covered approximatively 100 kilometers....I know that there is a grinding to be made but I have the impression not to have of bitting into my braking....maybe a problem with the pads??
I'm not sure what to suggest Greg. It could be that you have a problem with the pads..or is it possible that you got some grease or oil onto the pads or discs during fitting?
I cleaned well rotors during the assembly...I am going to wait a little, if that does not get better I shall try to put other pads....thank you for your help Mark...i saw in your other video you put ebc pads on your st, Were you satisfied by these pads?
EBD Yellowstuff...yes...they're a great pad on track and give off very low level's of brake dust. They wear out very quickly but because they're so cheap I can accept that compromise for fade free dust free braking with a solid pedal all day long.
Torque down values for allt the bolts including the torque values for the bracket front and rear. Anyone?
Great video Mark. Do you have a big brake kit on all around, or are they just brembo pads and discs? The stock pads on my 2014 ST are quite grabby. Wondering if it changes with different pads. Hoping to start with track days in a couple of years once my PCP finance ends and I buy the ST :)
Hi Liam
I have standard calipers all round and in the video fitted Brembo rear discs, Mintex front discs, and Brembo pads both front and rear.
I understand the grabby brakes point...I hated the standard pads and the system itself is over-assisted by the servo. These Brembo pads I don't find too bad on that front. Best for me so far for on road feel have been Ferodo DS2500 as they have a lower initial bite when cold.
As for trackdays, do it! There's no better way to really appreciate how good the ST is!
+MarkCup70 thanks for the detailed response. Do you also have higher temp brake fluid to go with those? I will have to get myself the MP215 tune at some point too :)
+Liam Fraser Yes, I run standard lines but with a high temp ATE fluid.
You sir are a legend. Thanks.
Great video mate.
Do you lose the warranty with the Mountune MR230 kit?
Do you really feel the power difference?
Cheers
Thanks Doug!
Yes, your base vehicle warranty is lost with MR230. Mountune give you 12 months on all that they fit but in theory you can kiss goodbye to any warranty claims for anything from Ford.
I say 'in theory' as most dealers, if you ask nicely enough, can put things through under warranty. I have had warranty work done since MR230 was installed, it was completely unrelated to the MR230 package, and the dealer was very reasonable about it and put it through without question.
Do you feel the difference? Compared to going from standard to MP215 I'd say it's a good two or three times more noticeable...the extra shove low down is really apparent.
I recently changed my pads to the same as yours (standard brembo) but since then getting really bad brake fade. Running Ate typ 200 dot 4 racing fluid and changed it last about 6 months ago. Any ideas?
It's probably the pads themselves causing the problem Dave...they're a cheap day-to-day pad really...suitable for road use only.
Is it the pedal going long or do you just have no bite when you work them hard?
I wouldn't be surprised if the pads gave up completely after one or two hard stops.
Do you keep the e break on or off during his??
No greasing of the slide pins?
Can u please advice the size off front disc and pads it's a djungle can't find the right one 😀😥would be very appreciated
I don't recall exactly Lars. Your best bet is to try an owners forum or FB group I think. Sorry!
I find it. With big caliper 278 23mm
Small like rear 253😀
Hi Mark brilliant ideo tutorial, did you need to adjust your handbrake at all after doing the rears?
No adjustment needed when I did the rears...I think I had the dealership adjust it once when in for a service though.
MarkCup70 Brilliant, going to have a go at doing the rear discs and pads, they're shot already after 10k. I reckon the slider pins may have seized stopping proper pad disc contact.
Sorry this is now a car of the past, but where exactly did you lift the rear of the car, and where exactly did you place the stands. Ford say, do not support the rear on the axle, but everyone does it anyway?
I did too.
Mark interesting video compared to my MK5 ST looks a bit easier on yours.
How did you find the yellow stuff pads ? I think there not as good as stated ?
I really liked the Yellows! Yes, they wear out very quickly, yes I was on the metal backing plates after a day at Goodwood, but I had zero fade and zero brake dust on the wheels all day long. The pedal feel was good too, they don't compress too much.
The best thing though is the price. For £60 a set next time I'm on track I'll take a second set and drop them in during the lunch break.