Here in the USA, we have cans that involve 8 or more steps to pour gas. After turning, pressing, twisting, adjusting various knobs, buttons and switches and centering the nozzle, gas flows all around the spout and some of it goes into the chainsaw. This is what our government calls a "no spill" fuel container. Oh, the plastic used in the container is known to cause cancer in the state of California. The other 49 states are OK with it. Check out logcabinlooms youtube video entitled "gas can rant" to see what I am talking about.
I just noticed that this particular gas can is for sale in Canada and the rest of the world except the USA. Perhaps there is a "grey market" for these cans in the USA?
Great video ! I have used this type of gas/oil container for over 35 years. There is a hard to find type of replacement spout you can get for these that is better for working with. They are about six inches long and the end has a screw on cap the size of one liter motor oil caps. they fit inside the can for transport like normal spouts ,but at the job site you put them upright. When you want to use them there is just a simple cap to unscrew. ... And a tip for all the hunters out there; When you are using your chain saw to cut up a moose, Be SURE to use VEGETABLE Oil as a bar oil, or you will ruin your meat. . Cheers.
That's a better system than what we have had down here. You were forced to make your own vent just get the gas out but now you can buy a kit on Amazon to fix that problem.
Seems like a perfect candidate to keep that oil side nozzle outside of the tank. Perhaps? For the points you've made about the oil, I've always preferred a funnel on a tether.
You have good taste in chainsaws. I had a 034 in the past and they are awesome saws. I have a husky now and it's junk compared to the sthils I have had.
Seems to be well made, but in my opinion the saftey no spill cans have spilled more fuel than the old ones with the vent. I think the EPA should try pouring gas themselves from these cans.
I aquired one of these but I sold it when I sold my chain saw. I now use a Makita 12 amp electric saw and a forty volt Greenworks battery operated saw and I have not looked back. One works fine (actually better than ANY gas chain saw it's weight) in the scope of my wood pile and extension cord and the other surprised me and every skeptic who tried it out. Chain oil is usually 30 weight motor oil. To be more environmentally friendly I have been using cooking oil lately. You can often find a bargain in canola oil (much cheaper than chain oil) and while it is true you will be refilling your chain lube reservoir more frequently I love my little slice of Heaven on earth and I am just as glad that the red dye marked petroleum product is not finding it's way into the well water I could bottle and sell. See you at the gun show this weekend 314299...;-) Oh BTW....I found your video on 310 Lyman reloader kits very helpful.
Electric saws are excellent if used within their limitations. I have a plug in electric saw that sees a decent amount of use, while not as powerful as the Sthil 034 it's plenty good enough for many tasks. I have a buddy who blocks his wood (eight cords) with an old electric saw, and he's been uisng the same one for probably 20 years.
This is oddly entertaining, the survey company I used to work for only used these. Pretty convenient when you’re deep in the woods cutting boundary lines
I'm a new shooter (I know this is a non-firearm video) but is there any cheap solution to gun oil? Like for storage and use, similar to the homemade bore cleaning solution.
3-IN-ONE oil is a pretty good oil for guns and you can buy it most anywhere at a reasonable price. In reality it's no different than most "gun" oils, which are mostly technical grade mineral oils with some additives.
Regular motor oils (new, of course) will work. For cleaning, ATF works as it contains dispersants (which are similar to detergents) BUT should never be used to lubricate, only to clean. Remember, "motor" oils are designed to experience the heat and other conditions of 'combustion' which, in most situations, is similar enough to the 'deflagration' found in modern firearms. All 'firearm' specific purpose lubricants are, as 314299 mentions above, are just base oils with additives that make them fit and cost for purpose. A lot of the additives used in firearm specific lubricants are there for reducing build up. Keeping the residual products of deflagration (burning, powder propellants) and bullet/casing contamination from hindering the proper operation of the firing mechanism is why some companies can charge quite a lot of money (a lot of them are simply not worth the cost in relation to other products). Also, keep in mind of what sort of firearms you're using these lubricants on. Simple firearms like a bolt action rifle is more tolerant of a wider array of lubrication products as they are simple machines and tend to see less frequent use and higher rates of maintenance. Firearms that contain plastics and rubber components can encounter issues if the wrong lubrication product is used as many petroleum based lubricants can affect rubbers and plastics (causing cracking or swelling, ultimately causing that part to fail prematurely). There are a lot of resources out there. Good luck!
Thanks. I have an SKS (Canadian right of passage) and a 92FS. I just bought 'Hoppes'' branded oil since, well it was what I found, and it works but seems expensive to me for what it is. I find that a lot of gun stuff is harder/more expensive to get up here (no surprise) hence why I was drawn to this channel. Thanks for information. I wish I was raised with proper firearm mentors in my family but sadly that is not the case.
I agree with you on the downside of the nozzles in the oil and gas. Also the nozzles are to large to fit in the opening of the gas tank and oil tank on my chainsaw
I sell this exact gas can at NAPA Auto parts!! I don't have a chain saw, but if I did, I get staff pricing!!! They really are quite nice and low priced. I never fill and stick nozzles in oil or fuel. Too messy otherwise.
We have Sceptre here, and was surprised to see that they are made in Canada. I need one of these for my car, it uses enough oil to warrant an oil can. I wonder if knowing how to fill a saw is dangerous knowledge. 🤔
Secpter makes more products than one would initally guess they did. For instance they make military ammo storage/transport containers (think mortar round carriers, etc). As for dangerous knowledge I think knowing how to start a saw is dangerous thing, at least for some people. Come to think of it saws are dangerous even when they are not running. I'm sure YT will come up with a "solution" to keep us all safe from such topics.
Those vent spouts are a bit tricky, have to keep them at just the right angle.. I have a pair of 25L ones for my boat, and they glug and gurgle until about a fifth of the can is emptied. Then it's a gasoline bong!
I used to use that style of can/spout for my oil furnace so I know exactly what you mean ...... glug..........glug........glug.........glug........woosh!
I drill a 1/2” hole in the top of the can at the back, then I use a piece of wire to pull a valve stem from a car rim through. Remove the valve core and use the dust cap as a air vent. Works perfectly 👍
good god man, nobody uses the nozzle for the oil, throw that thing away. if you can shoot a .5" group at 100y you otta be able to get oil in that tank without spillin a drop.
So here I am trying to figure out why on earth you would carry 2 stroke oil in a separate can instead of pre mixing the gas. I feel really stupid now because I didnt think of bar oil. Great video am thanks for making it. I'm probably going to get one of these. Lol feel free to make fun of me.
The Husqvarna Combi Can is supposed to be quite good (it is a similar product) but costs about $40, so for once a product made in this country is more economical.
Here in the USA, we have cans that involve 8 or more steps to pour gas. After turning, pressing, twisting, adjusting various knobs, buttons and switches and centering the nozzle, gas flows all around the spout and some of it goes into the chainsaw. This is what our government calls a "no spill" fuel container. Oh, the plastic used in the container is known to cause cancer in the state of California. The other 49 states are OK with it. Check out logcabinlooms youtube video entitled "gas can rant" to see what I am talking about.
That is why i gots my pld(pretty lame degree) in canology.
I just noticed that this particular gas can is for sale in Canada and the rest of the world except the USA. Perhaps there is a "grey market" for these cans in the USA?
@@314299 Probably so, the "common sense" gas can is a thing of the past here in the states!
We can buy replacement spouts from China. Not sure if the Gas Can police would arrest us for pouring our gas like Canadians, though.
@@314299 yes, you can but this can on Amazon.com...
Great video ! I have used this type of gas/oil container for over 35 years. There is a hard to find type of replacement spout you can get for these that is better for working with. They are about six inches long and the end has a screw on cap the size of one liter motor oil caps. they fit inside the can for transport like normal spouts ,but at the job site you put them upright. When you want to use them there is just a simple cap to unscrew. ... And a tip for all the hunters out there; When you are using your chain saw to cut up a moose, Be SURE to use VEGETABLE Oil as a bar oil, or you will ruin your meat. . Cheers.
I'll keep a look out for that type of spout. Thanks.
That's a better system than what we have had down here. You were forced to make your own vent just get the gas out but now you can buy a kit on Amazon to fix that problem.
The EPA is apparently busy down there "saving the earth" one gas can at a time....
You got it.
Seems like a perfect candidate to keep that oil side nozzle outside of the tank. Perhaps? For the points you've made about the oil, I've always preferred a funnel on a tether.
I think that for a days work that oil nozzle will stay outside the can, but it will get stowed in the can for transport or longer term storage.
I'm liking the concept. I'll be sure to check them out if I see them around. Thanks, as always, for sharing!
Trawna representing the garbage can industry!
You have good taste in chainsaws. I had a 034 in the past and they are awesome saws. I have a husky now and it's junk compared to the sthils I have had.
I've had the 034 for quite awhile, must be close to 20 years now. It has given good service and was money well spent.
Seems to be well made, but in my opinion the saftey no spill cans have spilled more fuel than the old ones with the vent. I think the EPA should try pouring gas themselves from these cans.
Yeah, in the real world things don't go quite the way they do in a lab.
That’s a really good idea. In some states, I’m looking at you California, gas cans have to be environmentally friendly. I don’t get it personally.
I aquired one of these but I sold it when I sold my chain saw. I now use a Makita 12 amp electric saw and a forty volt Greenworks battery operated saw and I have not looked back. One works fine (actually better than ANY gas chain saw it's weight) in the scope of my wood pile and extension cord and the other surprised me and every skeptic who tried it out. Chain oil is usually 30 weight motor oil. To be more environmentally friendly I have been using cooking oil lately. You can often find a bargain in canola oil (much cheaper than chain oil) and while it is true you will be refilling your chain lube reservoir more frequently I love my little slice of Heaven on earth and I am just as glad that the red dye marked petroleum product is not finding it's way into the well water I could bottle and sell. See you at the gun show this weekend 314299...;-) Oh BTW....I found your video on 310 Lyman reloader kits very helpful.
Electric saws are excellent if used within their limitations. I have a plug in electric saw that sees a decent amount of use, while not as powerful as the Sthil 034 it's plenty good enough for many tasks. I have a buddy who blocks his wood (eight cords) with an old electric saw, and he's been uisng the same one for probably 20 years.
This is oddly entertaining, the survey company I used to work for only used these. Pretty convenient when you’re deep in the woods cutting boundary lines
At least there is one less thing to lug.
I'm a new shooter (I know this is a non-firearm video) but is there any cheap solution to gun oil? Like for storage and use, similar to the homemade bore cleaning solution.
3-IN-ONE oil is a pretty good oil for guns and you can buy it most anywhere at a reasonable price. In reality it's no different than most "gun" oils, which are mostly technical grade mineral oils with some additives.
CorrosionX aviation is a pretty nice product, wicks in dissimilar metals etc.
Regular motor oils (new, of course) will work. For cleaning, ATF works as it contains dispersants (which are similar to detergents) BUT should never be used to lubricate, only to clean. Remember, "motor" oils are designed to experience the heat and other conditions of 'combustion' which, in most situations, is similar enough to the 'deflagration' found in modern firearms.
All 'firearm' specific purpose lubricants are, as 314299 mentions above, are just base oils with additives that make them fit and cost for purpose. A lot of the additives used in firearm specific lubricants are there for reducing build up. Keeping the residual products of deflagration (burning, powder propellants) and bullet/casing contamination from hindering the proper operation of the firing mechanism is why some companies can charge quite a lot of money (a lot of them are simply not worth the cost in relation to other products).
Also, keep in mind of what sort of firearms you're using these lubricants on. Simple firearms like a bolt action rifle is more tolerant of a wider array of lubrication products as they are simple machines and tend to see less frequent use and higher rates of maintenance. Firearms that contain plastics and rubber components can encounter issues if the wrong lubrication product is used as many petroleum based lubricants can affect rubbers and plastics (causing cracking or swelling, ultimately causing that part to fail prematurely).
There are a lot of resources out there. Good luck!
Thanks. I have an SKS (Canadian right of passage) and a 92FS. I just bought 'Hoppes'' branded oil since, well it was what I found, and it works but seems expensive to me for what it is. I find that a lot of gun stuff is harder/more expensive to get up here (no surprise) hence why I was drawn to this channel. Thanks for information. I wish I was raised with proper firearm mentors in my family but sadly that is not the case.
I appreciate the information!
I agree with you on the downside of the nozzles in the oil and gas. Also the nozzles are to large to fit in the opening of the gas tank and oil tank on my chainsaw
Your saw must have a really small gas / oil fill openings.
@@314299 yes it is small I tried a new safety can that was 7/8” and it would not fit. Echo 330t purchased in 2010
Thanks, I've been deciding wether or not to buy one of these, but I think I'm going to. 🖒
I sell this exact gas can at NAPA Auto parts!! I don't have a chain saw, but if I did, I get staff pricing!!! They really are quite nice and low priced. I never fill and stick nozzles in oil or fuel. Too messy otherwise.
We have Sceptre here, and was surprised to see that they are made in Canada. I need one of these for my car, it uses enough oil to warrant an oil can. I wonder if knowing how to fill a saw is dangerous knowledge. 🤔
Secpter makes more products than one would initally guess they did. For instance they make military ammo storage/transport containers (think mortar round carriers, etc).
As for dangerous knowledge I think knowing how to start a saw is dangerous thing, at least for some people. Come to think of it saws are dangerous even when they are not running. I'm sure YT will come up with a "solution" to keep us all safe from such topics.
Love it
I've had this one for a few years now and it's still holding up well.
Those vent spouts are a bit tricky, have to keep them at just the right angle.. I have a pair of 25L ones for my boat, and they glug and gurgle until about a fifth of the can is emptied. Then it's a gasoline bong!
I used to use that style of can/spout for my oil furnace so I know exactly what you mean ...... glug..........glug........glug.........glug........woosh!
I drill a 1/2” hole in the top of the can at the back, then I use a piece of wire to pull a valve stem from a car rim through. Remove the valve core and use the dust cap as a air vent. Works perfectly 👍
Cool. Thanks for the idea.
good god man, nobody uses the nozzle for the oil, throw that thing away. if you can shoot a .5" group at 100y you otta be able to get oil in that tank without spillin a drop.
With my 6" groups apparently I need as much help as possible!
Careful commietube might find this offensive.
That's possible as it does feature dangerous flammable liquids and an extremely dangerous power tool. Think of the children!
Who cares?! Screw them👌....... 👍
So here I am trying to figure out why on earth you would carry 2 stroke oil in a separate can instead of pre mixing the gas. I feel really stupid now because I didnt think of bar oil. Great video am thanks for making it. I'm probably going to get one of these. Lol feel free to make fun of me.
I only make fun of people who don't realize that they need to use mixed gas in two strokes.
Sent you a msg on your ace shotshell video...if you could msg me via contact info I provided
I'd appreciate
Cheers....Rodney
i sexually identify as a flame and i find this video triggering. im gonna have to get youtube to ban this seditious video
They only ban the popular uploads so this one ought to be here for ages.....
That is a nice quality can, however, what else would you expect from a capitalist country industry. I wish Ukraine could produce such goods.
The Husqvarna Combi Can is supposed to be quite good (it is a similar product) but costs about $40, so for once a product made in this country is more economical.