This is exactly why we all need to share what we are doing. Your idea worked great but someone else was able to see the potential to make it better. and if you hadn't shared you wouldn't have gotten this time saving technique. Thank you Curtis keep up the great work.
Recently I have really focused more on the use of weed fabric to help ease weed pulling and increase moisture control with mulch on top that I turn under the following year to add compost. This saved so much work. I saw your original video on spacing/burning holes and the second was a real break through. I use it for Kale, spinach, kohlrabi, cabbage, anywhere I can. Thank you.
Hey Curtis, I've been watching some of these videos in anticipation of spring! I wanted to share my surprise when you dropped Ray Tyler's name in this video. When you made this video, you hadn't yet visited his farm (or at least hadn't made a video about visiting) and I'd never heard him interviewed by either you or Diego (from the the Permaculture Voices podcast, for those of you reading this who don't know that podcast). Now that Ray is "part of the urban farming family," it's cool to hear his name dropped before y'all were rocking together. I know I don't know you or Ray personally, but your videos and interviews (as well as his) have changed the way I'm going to approach my own gardening this coming year. Thank you for all you do. Cheers! -John in Montana
Okay Curtis, This is my first post to you since I discovered your subscription six months ago. (Yeah I know, right?) My post to you today is about this time saving technique that we'll be using at our home - 1,500 SF and our rental - 2,000 SF. It is late winter, Feb here in TX and my wifey and I are preparing our ground this next week after we get back from the M.E.N. convention in Belton, TX this year. This weekend though we'll be covering the yards and preparing our bed covers, so thanks for the tip. We'll be using this technique. Additionally, we have made a hydroponics tower assembly for less than $200.00; it is solar powered, 48 strawberry plants is an area five foot tall, three foot wide, and eight & a half feet long. I'll be sure to let you know how long it takes and our profit from the farmer's market with this experiment. Your book "Urban Farmer" has been a great resource of information for ideas to expand our farm economically and efficiently for things like you've said are the most difficult challenges to farming; that being the marketing and business aspects of this business. You are right as is others like Joel Saladan, John Cohen, & Geoff Lawton about the changing face of agriculture in the Americas. With recent political directions of the government here in the U.S.A. it will become more imperative for citizens of this country to follow the paths that folks, like you have blazed; if we are to keep our economic balance during this time of rediscovered self-reliance, and freeing ourselves from the cheap & abusive use of third world markets. It's time that citizens in this country get out into the yard and grow and delicious food for our own families and those who can't. Thanks, Curt; I now know Canada is more than the home of good beer and John Candy.
Great ideal I was planning to do something like this on smaller scale on my allotment here in UK its only a small plot. Just hate weeding and was planning to use membrane for growing onions, leeks and brassicas, might even do it for potatoes as well. You can buy this already in UK but it isnt cheap. I hate the membrane getting loose at the end you end up with bits of plastic thread
Hi, I am still going to try the garden mats, but I have use landscape fabric for potted plants & I going to try your garden improved LSF also. Tell your friend thanks. As always great video.
Thanks Curtis. Good update, timely for me. Getting ready to burn my fabric in the next week or so. For you folks in Ontario / Eastern Canada Dubois in Quebec carries tarps and this type of weed barrier. Free shipping. Curtis I hope it's OK to put that info here. If not please let me know.
Love your intro and am loving your RUclips how to's. Almost done reading through your book, Curtis 👍👍👍 On my way to becoming a market gardener, not really urban but veggie farmer anyway. ;)
We where farming 55 acres of weed fabric and found those big holes a pain..we switched to xxs and dibbled in the plants and no weeds period. We of course also used water transplanters at certain seasons and they just punched a slit and in went plants...save hell realns no circles...my daughters did what you did and regretted the littke bit of weedibg at plant necks in our flower farming.
are you using anything to anchor the fabric down to the ground? I'm sure it would be fine when all the plants get a bit bigger, but I'd be worried about a gust of wind shifting or blowing up the fabric and damaging the plants, especially the new plugs.
I'm following this method for an 80X50 charity garden. I've purchased the same fabric you use and have a couple questions. Does it stand up well to foot traffic or must you keep that to a minimum? Does this fabric allow for decent water to reach the soil without irrigation? I'm hoping this is what enables ut to eliminate the tedious weeding work that chases away all but the most dedicated of volunteers.
I was just watching the old tarp video looking for info! Can you tell us where you get your tarps from and what fabric type/thickness they are specifically? Im finding the tarps for rows (3'x25' and such) but cant find the large tarps (50'x50'?) that you use for the stale seedbed technique. Thanks for all the great info Curtis
I was wondering why you use landscaping fabric instead of the solid plastic, if you are using drip irrigation? (Or do you only use it when you have overhead sprinklers?) In the DR, the cheapest weed barrier is 3 or 4 times the price of the traditional plastic row covers.
Urban Farmer Curtis Stone Thanks for your reply! How many times longer (roughly) might the fabric last? Calculating better, here the 3.65m x 100m rolls of fabric would cost me 6-8x more in total than the 1.32m x 1220 meter plastic rolls. (I have not yet seen the actual thickness though.) Also, with the landscape fabric, would you move it between plantings so that the holes use different soil each time, or so you always do that pitch fork aeration technique anyways, between plantings, this peeling back the fabric each time? Thanks!
Hey I need some advice! I tried this last year and it was a big fail! The fabric kept shifting and slightly covering entire rows of plants and weeds found there way through it eventually and the sun destroyed the integrity!
Question: how would you suggest to hold the fabric down in a windy place? Stakes worked half the time, but blew away several times when i used this as my walkway a few years ago. I have room for about 9 strips of these in my garden and would like to use them as you have instead... but when that wind comes... Im doomed!
Just a quick list of the by-products of burning landscape fabric made out of petroleum based plastic such as PET: Water, methane, acetaldehyde, ethylene, formaldehyde, methanol, acetone, benzene, terephthalic acid, styrene (ethenylbenzene), ethanol, toluene (methylbenzene), xylene (dimethylbenzene), ethylbenzene, naphthalene, biphenyl and phenol. These compounds being organic chemicals will bind to the soil. You can accomplish the same work with an exacto knife without melting the plastic.
Thanks for these time saving tips Curtis! Quick question - does this fabric, the Sunbelt, transfer water effectively? More directly, can I put this down then transplant and rely on overhead water to irrigate and not do drip lines underneath - have you found that to work? Thanks!
Why not fold them in half if they line up and burn through multiple layers? Wouldn't that make more sense to do lets say 2 or 3 of those wooden sheets at a time?
I think they're all saying 'hole saw' because Curtis used one to cut the wooden template, not the fabric. He couldn't remember the name of the tool, so people are commenting 'hole saw'. :)
Just re-watched this in anticipation of using this technique in my tiny little backyard plot. It occurred to me that at the planting stage you could take a couple of scraps of 2X material and some dowel rod and fashion an upside down, "T" shaped, multi head dibble with the pins corresponding to the hole spacing. I couldn't find exactly what I am envisioning but this is "sort of" what I mean. i.ytimg.com/vi/wkBhutIMfHw/maxresdefault.jpg Walk down the row, poke in your holes (say four at a time using the spacing in this video) and drop in the transplants. Easy peazy and fast.
I did this with 3 tarps stacked on top of eachother and they melted together so badly I spent 2 hours cutting them loose. My tarps are 110gr./m² maybe the ones used in this video were alot lighter. So anyway, I'm not stacking tarps anymore to do this :-) To people that say this will poison the soil: landscape fabrics are made from polypropylene which is pretty safe. When you do this trick the plastic liquefies and hardens in just a second and even if it burns there are no toxins released that could contaminate soil or air. Just do some research before spreading non sense.
I am having the same issue right now. I think i figured it out though. When i try to baby it apart i really start screwing it up. But it seems to work better when i stand on the sides of the tarp beneath and grab the sides of the tarp on top and then yank up as fast as i can in one big rip. It seems counter intuitive and i feel like each yank is going to rip the tarp apart, however it comes apart much cleaner that way. Its still not perfect, but the results i believe are acceptable. Also, how i used the torch made a big difference in how well it came apart. In the spots where i was really taking my time trying to get it to melt well around the edges of the circle, it really gobbed up the plastic and made it difficult to get apart. In the spots where i went real fast with the torch and didnt worry about the sides being perfect, these holes came apart rather easy with less damage to the tarps. Am assuming curtis has the same issues and finds these imperfections ok for the time savings of not doing them one at a time, he has employees on the clock. But you are correct, doing them one at a time would give better results.
codygillespie I had this issue too. I also was standing on the wood template to douse the flame. But I think you are right about torching the holes quickly and perhaps using Curtis's up and down movement of the torch to be more precise in order to get less melting together of the fabrics.
Burning plastic on the soil in which you'll grow your food: isn't there any danger of getting polution or even poison in your soil? Doesn't look very "organic" ;-) (sorry could be some wrong words in this text)
Sigh.. It's become a trigger at this point for me. Most of the gardening community is dictated by people who have very low levels of actual knowledge on the scientific side, so it's taught people to make broad sweeping generalizations about things that they know very little about in depth because they lacked the scientific approach of learning to distinguish empirical data from here say.
This is exactly why we all need to share what we are doing. Your idea worked great but someone else was able to see the potential to make it better. and if you hadn't shared you wouldn't have gotten this time saving technique.
Thank you Curtis keep up the great work.
Exactly what I was thinking when I googled it, I was like "Curtis has to have an easier way to go about this"
Recently I have really focused more on the use of weed fabric to help ease weed pulling and increase moisture control with mulch on top that I turn under the following year to add compost. This saved so much work. I saw your original video on spacing/burning holes and the second was a real break through. I use it for Kale, spinach, kohlrabi, cabbage,
anywhere I can. Thank you.
Hey Curtis, I've been watching some of these videos in anticipation of spring! I wanted to share my surprise when you dropped Ray Tyler's name in this video. When you made this video, you hadn't yet visited his farm (or at least hadn't made a video about visiting) and I'd never heard him interviewed by either you or Diego (from the the Permaculture Voices podcast, for those of you reading this who don't know that podcast). Now that Ray is "part of the urban farming family," it's cool to hear his name dropped before y'all were rocking together.
I know I don't know you or Ray personally, but your videos and interviews (as well as his) have changed the way I'm going to approach my own gardening this coming year. Thank you for all you do. Cheers! -John in Montana
Okay Curtis,
This is my first post to you since I discovered your subscription six months ago. (Yeah I know, right?) My post to you today is about this time saving technique that we'll be using at our home - 1,500 SF and our rental - 2,000 SF. It is late winter, Feb here in TX and my wifey and I are preparing our ground this next week after we get back from the M.E.N. convention in Belton, TX this year.
This weekend though we'll be covering the yards and preparing our bed covers, so thanks for the tip. We'll be using this technique. Additionally, we have made a hydroponics tower assembly for less than $200.00; it is solar powered, 48 strawberry plants is an area five foot tall, three foot wide, and eight & a half feet long. I'll be sure to let you know how long it takes and our profit from the farmer's market with this experiment.
Your book "Urban Farmer" has been a great resource of information for ideas to expand our farm economically and efficiently for things like you've said are the most difficult challenges to farming; that being the marketing and business aspects of this business.
You are right as is others like Joel Saladan, John Cohen, & Geoff Lawton about the changing face of agriculture in the Americas. With recent political directions of the government here in the U.S.A. it will become more imperative for citizens of this country to follow the paths that folks, like you have blazed; if we are to keep our economic balance during this time of rediscovered self-reliance, and freeing ourselves from the cheap & abusive use of third world markets. It's time that citizens in this country get out into the yard and grow and delicious food for our own families and those who can't. Thanks, Curt; I now know Canada is more than the home of good beer and John Candy.
Just WOW, you just changed my garden thanks.
+1 on the tarps/fabric. I know from Jean Martin's videos that we shouldn't skimp on fabrics and I'd hate to invest in the wrong thing.
Great ideal I was planning to do something like this on smaller scale on my allotment here in UK its only a small plot. Just hate weeding and was planning to use membrane for growing onions, leeks and brassicas, might even do it for potatoes as well. You can buy this already in UK but it isnt cheap. I hate the membrane getting loose at the end you end up with bits of plastic thread
Always pleasure to see when small changes and improvements save time :)
Thanks! What a great Idea. It's gonna make my life a lot easier this spring.
That's the "Ray Tyler" method man, glad you are finally on board!! :D Cheers & happy growing!
Hi, I am still going to try the garden mats, but I have use landscape fabric for potted plants & I going to try your garden improved LSF also. Tell your friend thanks. As always great video.
Thanks Curtis. Good update, timely for me. Getting ready to burn my fabric in the next week or so.
For you folks in Ontario / Eastern Canada Dubois in Quebec carries tarps and this type of weed barrier. Free shipping. Curtis I hope it's OK to put that info here. If not please let me know.
Good, always looking for a better way, Thanks. I see they also make a 6' wide landscape material. That size would not be better to use?....Joe
Curtis uses a 30 inch bed system, so that would not work as well for him.
Since you're doing this on your plots directly, won't this leave burnt plastic and chemicals on the soil?
+Chloe Adeline Not that I've seen.
You are absolutely right. See my coment above. Burning plastic directly into soil is not a food safe practice.
Love your intro and am loving your RUclips how to's. Almost done reading through your book, Curtis 👍👍👍
On my way to becoming a market gardener, not really urban but veggie farmer anyway. ;)
+Vie great to hear.
Brilliant idea! My question is does the fabric ever heat weld together at the edge of the hole and make it hard to separate?
Yes. But they pull apart easy.
using the IQ
and ingenuity.. very good video.
We where farming 55 acres of weed fabric and found those big holes a pain..we switched to xxs and dibbled in the plants and no weeds period. We of course also used water transplanters at certain seasons and they just punched a slit and in went plants...save hell realns no circles...my daughters did what you did and regretted the littke bit of weedibg at plant necks in our flower farming.
You just changed my life!! Thank you.
Can this method be utilized from seedling? Meaning not as a transplant method but straight from seed?
can i use the lumber yard clastic that is used to cover piles of lumber. i have lots of this plastic.
are you using anything to anchor the fabric down to the ground? I'm sure it would be fine when all the plants get a bit bigger, but I'd be worried about a gust of wind shifting or blowing up the fabric and damaging the plants, especially the new plugs.
Thanks for sharing. Fairly new to gardening in U.K. - will be implementing this on my allotment 👍🏻
Do you burn the holes in, roll it up, and then put down the irrigation, and then roll the covering back out?
+Tom Anderson Pretty much.
Nice job Ray!!
I'm following this method for an 80X50 charity garden.
I've purchased the same fabric you use and have a couple questions.
Does it stand up well to foot traffic or must you keep that to a minimum?
Does this fabric allow for decent water to reach the soil without irrigation?
I'm hoping this is what enables ut to eliminate the tedious weeding work that chases away all but the most dedicated of volunteers.
Using heavy duty commercial weed block as you show in your video, how do you fertilize and water your plants????
+www.MuscadinesAndMore.com You can water these however you like. We have various ways of watering. I have videos on fertilizing.
I love it, thanks you for all the helpful tips. Keep up the good work Curtis 👍
What holds the fabric to the ground so that it stays straight and does not blow in the wind?
Stake it.
I was just watching the old tarp video looking for info! Can you tell us where you get your tarps from and what fabric type/thickness they are specifically? Im finding the tarps for rows (3'x25' and such) but cant find the large tarps (50'x50'?) that you use for the stale seedbed technique. Thanks for all the great info Curtis
do you typically use the fabric for transplants or direct seeding by hand or both?
transplants
Very useful, can't wait to do this one.
Is there a reason you don't do five rows with six inch centers? There's enough room on 30 in fabric.
How many different hole patterns do you use? Different for every crop?
Im thinking about making a template for a small raised bed 3x12 and make maybe a 5 on center for carrots.
how did u the holes.. lime did u kinda use the square foot method
Does the plastic 'shrink back' to the edges of the holes, or is molten plastic ending up in the bed?
In the summer heat, these not affect crops like Arugula and Lettuce?
Thank you so much for sharing your ideas. Great Job!!
do those fabrics stay in the ground all season or do they get moved to a new plot as needed?
Hello, Why do you use Polypropylene? Does it save heat underneath?
"Simply" brilliant... thanks for sharing
Is the soil get contaminated with burning the weed fabric?
I love this! So awesome and efficient!
Can you use the paper pot planter first, then cover with the prepared landscape fabric? Is the paper pot planter accurate enough so this will work?
I'd love to see someone try it.
What are the dimensions of your wooden stencil I imagine it needs to be small enough to for one person to manage easy.
+tjz19d These are made for a 30" wide bed.
Yea but what's the overall size of ur template, 2.5ftx3ft etc
Just try it and see what works man! :)
I'd start with 4', since that means you'd only have to make one cut off a 4'x8' sheet of plywood.
Perfect. I'll be doing this tomorrow.
How do you make this line up with the paper pot planter, and seeder?
is the burnt fabric hazardous or conflict with organic regulations ? is it ok to burn on the bed if your certified organic farmer?
It might be. Not sure. I'm not CO.
Do they stick together after you burn the holes in them?
Love it! Curtis how are you anchoring the fabric? I farm in a windy area.
Landscape staples.
Kind of a late question here. I heard you say the hole saw was a 2" but it looks like a 3". Or is there really no big difference?
It's 2 inches.
Do whichever one you want. I like 2 inches because I don't need a 3" hole. I want less soil exposed, so 2 inches works for us.
Melted plastic gets thicker at the edges reinforcing it I'm sure. This is good
Love you mate. You saved us a lot of time.
Smart! How do you lay down the lines?
What distance do you leave between circles?
+TheNetworkD Depends on the crop. This is 6".
in an earlier video he states that it is 6" on center with a 3" stagger.
Do these bed covers work well with overhead watering?
Just saw you answered this in a previous comment! Thanks for the videos!
Awesome improvement!
Great video. Say where did you buy the propane burner attachment? C-tire?
+Joshua Blades yes exactly.
Does anyone sell these (with same quality, long-lasting fabric) pre-made and ready to install?
How do you guys keep the fabrics from ripping apart when you do more than 1 at a time?? THANKS Curtis and Ray!
I'm not sure. We never have that problem.
Great time saver!
So smart thank you for the idea
Do you recommend this if you have heavy weed pressure
Fantastic idea just what I was looking for, thanks👍
By the way do you use the Dewitt Pro-5 (20 yr, 5 oz) Weed Barrier or the GR-SB32 Polypropylene Ground Cover? Thanks again, Ralph.
+R Stenger Yes.
I was wondering why you use landscaping fabric instead of the solid plastic, if you are using drip irrigation? (Or do you only use it when you have overhead sprinklers?)
In the DR, the cheapest weed barrier is 3 or 4 times the price of the traditional plastic row covers.
I like fabric because I can reuse it for years. I use both drip and overhead.
Urban Farmer Curtis Stone
Thanks for your reply!
How many times longer (roughly) might the fabric last? Calculating better, here the 3.65m x 100m rolls of fabric would cost me 6-8x more in total than the 1.32m x 1220 meter plastic rolls. (I have not yet seen the actual thickness though.)
Also, with the landscape fabric, would you move it between plantings so that the holes use different soil each time, or so you always do that pitch fork aeration technique anyways, between plantings, this peeling back the fabric each time? Thanks!
Hey I need some advice! I tried this last year and it was a big fail! The fabric kept shifting and slightly covering entire rows of plants and weeds found there way through it eventually and the sun destroyed the integrity!
Thank you so much for the good ideas!
Excellent. What did you plant ?
Question: how would you suggest to hold the fabric down in a windy place? Stakes worked half the time, but blew away several times when i used this as my walkway a few years ago. I have room for about 9 strips of these in my garden and would like to use them as you have instead... but when that wind comes... Im doomed!
Get garden pins!
i found somewhere that sells those same fabric strips but its only sold in 30 ft at apx 8 dollars
doesn't the layers of fabric melt together
This is awesome - what exactly are the dimensions on that plywood board?
Matthew Pidge 2.5 by 3 feet or what every covers the your row beds
Couldn't you fold the fabric up, and just make the holes through multiple layers at once? Or use that hole saw?
How can you use this in combination with the Jang seeder?
You can’t.
GREAT IDEA!!!!
Just a quick list of the by-products of burning landscape fabric made out of petroleum based plastic such as PET: Water, methane, acetaldehyde, ethylene, formaldehyde, methanol, acetone, benzene, terephthalic acid, styrene (ethenylbenzene), ethanol, toluene (methylbenzene), xylene (dimethylbenzene), ethylbenzene, naphthalene, biphenyl and phenol. These compounds being organic chemicals will bind to the soil. You can accomplish the same work with an exacto knife without melting the plastic.
Do you buy 3 ft fabric and trim or ?
do you re-use the fabric every season, or is it better to buy new fabric?
+JGilOrganic Same every season.
What kind of weed fabric do you use? I've used junk stuff that tears up after a year. What's the good stuff?
HOLE SAW
Love this idea
it would fray the liner and reduce the lifecycle of the material.
She's not saying use a hole saw to bore the holes, you dumb shit; she's telling him the name of the tool used in the video he couldn't name.
Geez, settle down max. Be nice man!
Can you reuse landscape fabric for a couple years?
+Kyle LaBerge Oh ya.
why not simply use a utility knife and cut an X? It would save on the gas and i can't imagine it would be a big time difference.
+Kris Heiss Because it's more work, requires getting on my hands and knees, and then you have frayed ends.
Kris Heiss You have to melt/burn this stuff. It's woven and if you just cut it, it frays horribly!!
Thanks for these time saving tips Curtis! Quick question - does this fabric, the Sunbelt, transfer water effectively? More directly, can I put this down then transplant and rely on overhead water to irrigate and not do drip lines underneath - have you found that to work? Thanks!
+Mission of Mary Cooperative oh yes for sure. It works just fine for overhead.
awesome! thanks, Curtis - was hoping
You mentioned that you cut your landscape fabric to make your 30" X 50' lengths. Do you need to burn the edges so that they don't unravel?
With woven fabric yes.
Why not fold them in half if they line up and burn through multiple layers? Wouldn't that make more sense to do lets say 2 or 3 of those wooden sheets at a time?
We do 3 sheets at a time.
So the burnt plastic doesn’t effect the soil? I’m not sure how healthy that is... it seems too good to be true...
For those saying 'hole saw' please remember about the fraying of the material. I would expect the liner to fray using a hole saw.
I think they're all saying 'hole saw' because Curtis used one to cut the wooden template, not the fabric. He couldn't remember the name of the tool, so people are commenting 'hole saw'. :)
Great Idea!!
this is awesome! thanks!
Thks!
Hi Curtis, Do you burn holes for root vegetables like carrot and beets? Or do you burn a long slit for these types of vegetables?
no, just with transplant crops
We sale this Landscape/garden fabric with holes, you do not need to “burning holes”
Awesome!
Just re-watched this in anticipation of using this technique in my tiny little backyard plot.
It occurred to me that at the planting stage you could take a couple of scraps of 2X material and some dowel rod and fashion an upside down, "T" shaped, multi head dibble with the pins corresponding to the hole spacing.
I couldn't find exactly what I am envisioning but this is "sort of" what I mean.
i.ytimg.com/vi/wkBhutIMfHw/maxresdefault.jpg
Walk down the row, poke in your holes (say four at a time using the spacing in this video) and drop in the transplants.
Easy peazy and fast.
I built that exact thing. 8' 2 x 4, 1/2" dowels.
I did this with 3 tarps stacked on top of eachother and they melted together so badly I spent 2 hours cutting them loose. My tarps are 110gr./m² maybe the ones used in this video were alot lighter. So anyway, I'm not stacking tarps anymore to do this :-)
To people that say this will poison the soil: landscape fabrics are made from polypropylene which is pretty safe. When you do this trick the plastic liquefies and hardens in just a second and even if it burns there are no toxins released that could contaminate soil or air. Just do some research before spreading non sense.
I am having the same issue right now. I think i figured it out though. When i try to baby it apart i really start screwing it up. But it seems to work better when i stand on the sides of the tarp beneath and grab the sides of the tarp on top and then yank up as fast as i can in one big rip. It seems counter intuitive and i feel like each yank is going to rip the tarp apart, however it comes apart much cleaner that way. Its still not perfect, but the results i believe are acceptable. Also, how i used the torch made a big difference in how well it came apart. In the spots where i was really taking my time trying to get it to melt well around the edges of the circle, it really gobbed up the plastic and made it difficult to get apart. In the spots where i went real fast with the torch and didnt worry about the sides being perfect, these holes came apart rather easy with less damage to the tarps.
Am assuming curtis has the same issues and finds these imperfections ok for the time savings of not doing them one at a time, he has employees on the clock. But you are correct, doing them one at a time would give better results.
codygillespie I had this issue too. I also was standing on the wood template to douse the flame. But I think you are right about torching the holes quickly and perhaps using Curtis's up and down movement of the torch to be more precise in order to get less melting together of the fabrics.
A template or plan would be really useful. :)
The fun part is figuring out some of it on our own! :)
Burning plastic on the soil in which you'll grow your food: isn't there any danger of getting polution or even poison in your soil? Doesn't look very "organic" ;-) (sorry could be some wrong words in this text)
Sigh.. It's become a trigger at this point for me. Most of the gardening community is dictated by people who have very low levels of actual knowledge on the scientific side, so it's taught people to make broad sweeping generalizations about things that they know very little about in depth because they lacked the scientific approach of learning to distinguish empirical data from here say.
A simple answer would have been better.
@@stahpitt8531 Basic high school chemistry. Hydrophobic substances bind to organic material like soil.
2 inch hole saw with arbor and drill bit
2 inch hole saw....hehe
That looks bigger than 2 inches. It looks more like 3 or 3.5 inches.