Exciting presentation! Wonderful work! Wasn't exactly what I was expecting, but in a very good way! This ended up being a masterful work of art as it turns out! Very well done! Great job! Can not wait until your next one! 👍
Nice job mate. We had to build something similar in high school, but ours was much easier because we didn't do a rounded top....in fact there was no top at all, just a strap handle 😂
Interesting Bob! That came out mint!. I thought you were going to weld it for a minute there and got quite excited.That panel beating looks pretty tricky without cutting out the pies like you did on the second version. Now I have to ask Bob because that is just the way I am - what do you have there in the small parts drawers at around 14:00 - 3 across from the right and 6 up. hehehe - I used to keep them in a drawer as well mate - not in the garage though 😁
Well, those ones are for industrial use only :-) Old army trick was to slip one on the barrel of your gun to keep the mud and water out. But in WDG they come in real handy to keep the crud out of hydraulic hoses or stop fluid dribbling out.
Awesome build! But I have a question. Did you rivet the latches, hinges and handle on before painting and tape them? Or did you go back remove the rivets and paint it without hardware in it?
Thanks for watching that video, it took a while to get an audience. In answer to your question, option 2, I went back and removed the rivets, painted it and then refitted the hardware with new rivets. A bit wasteful I guess, more so as the rest of the metal work used recycled materials. I buy rivets in bulk, so I probably didn't even think about replacing them. In a recent video, where I made some metal drawers ( ruclips.net/video/A8p-ZSOAhyU/видео.html ), I actually used self drilling screws and removed the hardware for painting, after which I reassembled with the self drilling screws and then went along removing a screw at a time and replacing it with a blind rivet. 👍👍👍
@@whitedoggarage I’m doing a repair on an old miner’s lunch box and I’m trying to find a solution to blind rivets as I don’t want the nub end sticking out on the inside of the box. I was going to paint it and take the hardware off before hand but if I can’t replace the original rivets (being flush on both sides)I’m probably just going to have to tape all the hardware and paint over it. That’s why I was wondering. Also I enjoy your channel and thanks for the comment.
@@burnttoast2615 You can flatten the nub of a blind rivet with a hammer and I have done that on occasion. So as not to damage the paint, position the rivet head over the flat end of a piece of round steel and then tap down the nub - of course that method assumes you have enough room to use the hammer on the inside. Good luck with your lunch box.
Its a panel beating tool, main use is to make that deformation so two sheets can be overlapped. The old method was to take a pair of flat jaw pliers and grind the jaws to give the zig zag shape on closing. You can buy pliers like that now as well, the air tool just reduces the effort.
The main reason is that I don't have a spot welder :-). If I was going to produce a lot of them I would spot weld. Originally I was going to solder the joints so I would have clean lines, but when I grabbed the sheets from the scrap pile I was looking for bits big enough to cut to size and it was only after I had bent it up that I realized it was zincalume which cant be soldered, so rivets it had to be.
i just assumed since you have so many great metal working tools, that you would have a spot welder, LOL, you just never any call for one? with the bender, i thought they would go hand in hand
@@markwhalen5300 there was a time when I did lot of car work and I thought about getting one, but didn't and haven't really missed it. When I was thinking about building the lunch box I was going to solder all the joints so it would be smooth all over. Unfortunately the material I decided to use was zincalume which can't be soldered :-(
i figured the metal (or old coating) was the reason you avoided the spot welder, i have done similar, although more rudimentary projects myself and to eliminate snags i always used spot welds except where hinges or handles were involved (for obvious reasons). sorry but when i see your setup i think of the expense of a spot welder as small $ compared to the rivitless folding projects available to try/improve.
@@markwhalen5300 Yep small $, but I wont buy a tool if I don't have a lot of work for it and having moved away from car restoration and repair I can't justify adding a spot welder to the workshop.
It is called a '3-in-1 Pressbrake, Guillotine & Rolls' and is sold by Hare and Forbes. I am pretty sure it is the 760 mm wide one. Here is the link www.machineryhouse.com.au/s650?s=s650 Oh, and thanks for watching the video 🙂
6:50 I was wondering how you would provide a finished look without removing some of the material, and pretty sure it wouldn't work. on my personal mailbox, it looks like they flared the edge of the top, and then used a machine to crimp the sides and top together, not a very finished look, but it works well for mass production, I think your final solution @ 12:30 was the right idea!
Great video
Thank you
Saludos desde Chile.
Gracias 🙂👍👍👍
Nice job! tin work is not easy hats off 👍
Thank you.
Exciting presentation! Wonderful work! Wasn't exactly what I was expecting, but in a very good way! This ended up being a masterful work of art as it turns out! Very well done! Great job! Can not wait until your next one! 👍
Thank you very much, I enjoyed making it and have already been putting it to use.
nice job! new sub!
Welcome aboard and enjoy the ride Pistol Pete.
Wow I’m going to try this
nice job Bob
Lovely work Bob, Enjoy that sarnie 👍
Nice job mate. We had to build something similar in high school, but ours was much easier because we didn't do a rounded top....in fact there was no top at all, just a strap handle 😂
Interesting Bob! That came out mint!. I thought you were going to weld it for a minute there and got quite excited.That panel beating looks pretty tricky without cutting out the pies like you did on the second version. Now I have to ask Bob because that is just the way I am - what do you have there in the small parts drawers at around 14:00 - 3 across from the right and 6 up. hehehe - I used to keep them in a drawer as well mate - not in the garage though 😁
Well, those ones are for industrial use only :-) Old army trick was to slip one on the barrel of your gun to keep the mud and water out. But in WDG they come in real handy to keep the crud out of hydraulic hoses or stop fluid dribbling out.
@@whitedoggaragemakes perfect sense - just as well I asked - cleared that up! 😉
Awesome build! But I have a question. Did you rivet the latches, hinges and handle on before painting and tape them? Or did you go back remove the rivets and paint it without hardware in it?
Thanks for watching that video, it took a while to get an audience. In answer to your question, option 2, I went back and removed the rivets, painted it and then refitted the hardware with new rivets. A bit wasteful I guess, more so as the rest of the metal work used recycled materials. I buy rivets in bulk, so I probably didn't even think about replacing them. In a recent video, where I made some metal drawers ( ruclips.net/video/A8p-ZSOAhyU/видео.html ), I actually used self drilling screws and removed the hardware for painting, after which I reassembled with the self drilling screws and then went along removing a screw at a time and replacing it with a blind rivet. 👍👍👍
@@whitedoggarage I’m doing a repair on an old miner’s lunch box and I’m trying to find a solution to blind rivets as I don’t want the nub end sticking out on the inside of the box. I was going to paint it and take the hardware off before hand but if I can’t replace the original rivets (being flush on both sides)I’m probably just going to have to tape all the hardware and paint over it. That’s why I was wondering. Also I enjoy your channel and thanks for the comment.
@@burnttoast2615 You can flatten the nub of a blind rivet with a hammer and I have done that on occasion. So as not to damage the paint, position the rivet head over the flat end of a piece of round steel and then tap down the nub - of course that method assumes you have enough room to use the hammer on the inside. Good luck with your lunch box.
15:30 I have never seen that tool before, wow!
Its a panel beating tool, main use is to make that deformation so two sheets can be overlapped. The old method was to take a pair of flat jaw pliers and grind the jaws to give the zig zag shape on closing. You can buy pliers like that now as well, the air tool just reduces the effort.
3:50 I see you are using pop rivets, why not a spot welder?
The main reason is that I don't have a spot welder :-). If I was going to produce a lot of them I would spot weld. Originally I was going to solder the joints so I would have clean lines, but when I grabbed the sheets from the scrap pile I was looking for bits big enough to cut to size and it was only after I had bent it up that I realized it was zincalume which cant be soldered, so rivets it had to be.
i just assumed since you have so many great metal working tools, that you would have a spot welder, LOL, you just never any call for one? with the bender, i thought they would go hand in hand
@@markwhalen5300 there was a time when I did lot of car work and I thought about getting one, but didn't and haven't really missed it. When I was thinking about building the lunch box I was going to solder all the joints so it would be smooth all over. Unfortunately the material I decided to use was zincalume which can't be soldered :-(
i figured the metal (or old coating) was the reason you avoided the spot welder, i have done similar, although more rudimentary projects myself and to eliminate snags i always used spot welds except where hinges or handles were involved (for obvious reasons). sorry but when i see your setup i think of the expense of a spot welder as small $ compared to the rivitless folding projects available to try/improve.
@@markwhalen5300 Yep small $, but I wont buy a tool if I don't have a lot of work for it and having moved away from car restoration and repair I can't justify adding a spot welder to the workshop.
What kind of sheet metal press is that and where can i buy one?
It is called a '3-in-1 Pressbrake, Guillotine & Rolls' and is sold by Hare and Forbes. I am pretty sure it is the 760 mm wide one. Here is the link www.machineryhouse.com.au/s650?s=s650 Oh, and thanks for watching the video 🙂
6:50 I was wondering how you would provide a finished look without removing some of the material, and pretty sure it wouldn't work. on my personal mailbox, it looks like they flared the edge of the top, and then used a machine to crimp the sides and top together, not a very finished look, but it works well for mass production, I think your final solution @ 12:30 was the right idea!
*uses inches and metric at the same time
Hulk: these are confusing times.
Fluent in both measuring systems :-)