ZF6HP26 Teardown, 3-4 slip
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- This is a continuation of last week, after I fixed the park issue and was able to drive the car, had a very bad 3-4 slip that would put the trans in safe mode and have a clutch E monitoring code. Found the clutch smoked of course. I also show how to check the E clutch drum to make sure it is not cracked. enjoy and thanks for watching
Gary, I am a novice transmission rebuilder, I only work on my own for now. I always research every transmission before I open it. Your videos have given me such confidence and information that I can not find anywhere else. Thank you for the great videos and practical information. Great job on all of these vids.
Thanks Russ, any questions just drop me a line
gsferraro@yahoo.com
I've been looking forward to this since last week with the valvebody. That E drum sure put out a lot of heat into all the surrounding parts. Great video Gary, thanks for sharing!
It was good to see what was wrong with this one. Thanks for showing the details as well.
TakeCare,
Bill
Bill K Thanks for watching Bill. Always nice to hear from you.
I've been hoping you would do this one, there is a good chance my next car will have a ZF6hp26 in it. Your videos helped so much with my ZF5HP24 rebuild I did 3 years/35,000 miles ago and it's still on the road.
TattooPyramidHead Great news. Glad I could help
Hi Garry, my 6hp26 will need a overhaul as E clutch adaptions are past point on no return (750mbar instead of recommended 350mbar and B clutch is 440mbar) anyway.. since I am looking for a upgraded parts to handle Exedy stage 3 clutches and roughly about 500whp I found out a oil pump, E clutch with input shaft and intermediate shaft from a Ford 6R80 could be a direct replacement without needing any other modifications... I don't suppose you don't have the 6R80 parts somewhere at your shop and you could test it out on your next video if it would be even possible? Seen a lot of 6hp26 videos on here and then I found your channel, you are doing a good job with all those very informative videos, thanks for that.
I do not have the parts, but I can tell you that I do believe it is the same overhaul kit
im looking at doing the 6R80 E clutch and pump swap also as the 6R8 has the larger dia shaft and possibly bigger pump.
@@denisovanhybrid9610 Agreed, When i do these units durabond is what i use, Good stuff.
@@denisovanhybrid9610 I'm going to ask my supplier, i thought they were the same
@@denisovanhybrid9610 6HP26 and 6HP 19 are 2 different kits, most of the bushings in the ZF19 kit are smaller
Gary- I just want to say thank you for your videos. I am right in the middle of repairing a 6hp19 with an E drum that looks almost exactly like that. The stator bush wear (and low fluid level!) likely accelerated the wear. How do you normally clean up the pressure plate and "wave"? Scotch Brite? 1000 grit? Is it necessary to lubricate the steels or other parts before reinstalling? I had never cracked open an AT before, but your videos and expertise made me say "why not" before just ordering a junkyard trans in questionable shape! Wish me luck on reassembly and lining up all those splines. Lol.
Hi Gary, In a case like this where the E drum is burnt, do you replace or clean the drum? Do you replace all discolored(burnt) parts?
It depends on how bad the clutches are burnt, most of the time i can clean the drum
Hi Gary! I bought BMW 535d (2008) with ZF6HP28 gearbox. After while I had noticed that 1-2 and 2-3 gear looks like slipping (like manual gearbox with half pressed clutch). When I push accelerator, tachometer stays at 2000 rpm and car speed increases (like CVT). Could you please be so kind and suggest possible solution of this existing problem? Could it be worn out torque converter? P.s. I presume the transmission oil was never changed. Thanks!
Hi Gary, first of all your videos are amazing. I'm preparing to do this job myself and wondering about your diagnosis for e clutch issues. My 2008 Alpina tuned zf6hp is having the 3-4 sqwak. However no problem putting down power and the transmission is smooth on all gears. 4-5-6 shifts is perfect as well. Yellow error with locking to 3rd gear comes up once every 2 months after some extended periods of hard driving, a car restart clears the error. How will I be able to identify if this is a solenoid issue or a stator bush issue? Would I need to prepare new clutch packs and e clutch housing as well? Thankyou for your time
If your getting a sqwak on the shift that is usually a clutch issue, very possible the clutch is flaking off causing to much clearance in the clutch pack
@@GaryFerraro thanks Gary, so I should just replace the stator bush and clutch pack for E clutch?
Hey gary i cant seem to find a video on how to take apart the e and a drums to do the o rings for the overhaul kit, any insight would be helpful
Gary one question, do you prefill the 'pistons' / cluch baskets with oil or will they vent the air on theirs own?
Im just changing seals and i wonder if i need to worry about any air being trapped in the cluch pack pistons
I do not do that, air will bleed out
What kind of defect do you know? d Does it not start moving and at high torque will the car suddenly slip out of place, or will electric welding fix the problem? Thank you very much
Crazy thing about this trans is just about every time I get a ZF6hp it has bad packs. If it's valve body is leaking pressure the bands and clutch wear every shift but the unit has adaptations that hide it up until it a huge problem, I tried doing just mechatronics work for creep clients/cars and just about every time that band-aids the problem
Great job as always, thanks for posting
Thank you Scott.
Hey Gary, I have a 6HP19A fitted on Audi A6. The problem was a squak between 3-4 and 4-5. After a complete rebuild (sonax bushings, friction discs, all seals, piston rings, O-rings, valve body rebuilded as well as torque converter), the "squak" is still there with the only difference it is present when the engine is at operating temperature. When cold it is fine. The charge pressures are negative values (checked via VCDS) and I assume this mean there is no pressure leak. Can you suggest what may cause the problem?
It's the clutch material, get the posi additive from Ford and add that to the transmission or look on line for Dr Tranny's Instant Shudder fix in a red tube, add a couple of those tubs and problem sloved, The ford posi smells (just FYI) but works good lol
Hi Gary, My e70 2007 diesel 70k km on it. It doesn’t go to manual mode/sport mode, and sluggish shifts 1st to 2nd, can you help me please? What are the common issues. Thanks advance
Hi Gary I have pressure solenoid d on zf6hp26 transmission I have replaced bride seal and the four round tubes and new fluid with filter and metal pan . What is the pressure solinoid d mean? Does it mean replace solinoid D ? And which one is D ?
Can you tell me the code number and definition please
BMW of N.A. is not happy with you sir , lol I admire you
Great video Gary and very informative,are there any rebuild manuals available anywhere for these transmissions in paper back,other than cd's,or downloadable from internet,cant seem to find one anywhere!Again Thank You,for the great videos on these transmissions!
I am from Indonesia I found a code violation of the gear 5 incorect ratio, what are the causes of zf 6hp26
That is usually a worn out rear stator bushing
Thks my friends
Hello.which washer is placed on the shaft from the parking drum, and which one between the bearing and the flanges of the drive shaft?
is one thick and one thin
@@GaryFerraro first THICK shim on the shaft, next shaft in to bearing ,next THIN shim ,Flange,nut ?Is that is corect sequence?
@@TheMarcinvr6 The thicker one would normally go by the park drum
Hello Gary. First let me say I thoroughly enjoy your videos and have been watching them for a long time now. I have a nice 6607 with the zf6hp 26 and I am having issues and wonder if I can get some help. I am not afraid to do any of the work I have swap the transmission once and also rebuilt the valve body but I am still having issues with my car going into limp mode when I come to a stop or if I'm sitting idle for a little while. Watching your videos I am thinking maybe the bushings a possibly the solenoid which I've replaced a couple of times but they were used so that could be the problem. It does Drive fine on the highway and during motion until I slow down to a stop or actually stopped and sit idle like maybe at a light or a stop sign. Any advice or suggestions?
I would like to know what codes are present
@@GaryFerraro I'm sorry. That should have read 2007 e66 lol. Anyway sorry for the late response I was at work. So this evening I drove it and when it happened I was sitting idle. The codes are 4e89 solenoid 1or 2 mechanically jammed and 51BO message(brake light switch)from disc implausible. Quick history. Bought car with gears not engaging. Kept jumping back to park immediately. Thanks to you I replaced bridge seal,4 tube seals pan and fluid. Car ran great for a week. Got e clutch code. Replaced trans with used one. Replaced all parts again. Swapped computer to other valve body. Ran great for a few months this time. I decide to fixed all areas of possible oil leakage and when I finished and started the car it would thump and jump back in park. It was perfectly fine before the preventative maintenance. I rebuilt valve body with sonnax kit and still having the issue but when I come to a stop or sit idle for some time. Thanks in advance.
@@waynehazard-ql5sv ok so now you have the 4E89 Code?
@@GaryFerraro yes. I have seen this code for awhile just had no clue as how to fix it. Again like I mentioned earlier after changing valve cover gaskets and alternator bracket seal along with valvetronic o-rings plugs and coils this is when trans started acting up. Thinking maybe coincidence. Also from watching one of your videos I was thinking maybe bushings might be the problem. The battery is new and so is alternator.
@@waynehazard-ql5sv This code is solenoid mechanically Jammed, i never had this code here in my shop but reading forums about this code seems it's a valvebody problem, i have read that changing the valvebody fixed it, but i never diagnosed this code yet
Hi Mr. Gary, I would like to tell you about my hacking BMW e53 zf5hp24 hydraulic block I found a crack at the top, and for what reason it may have cracked please tell me help me very please
hey. where do you get your kits? for example bushing kit? clutch kit with steels?
I purchase from Transtar
@@GaryFerraro any link to theyr web? thanks
@@powpow4033 www.transtar1.com
I have this box in an Aussie Ford Falcon XR8 (5.4 Litre V8) which has only done 55,000km.. when coasting downhill or coming to a stop under no load the revs jump up and down 200 or so rpms.. it stops doing it with any throttle and doesn't do it when underload... Shift from 3-4 is a little harsh.. what could it be at such low km?? I've had 2 other ZF Australian Ford's both with similar issues at low km
Do you have a scan tool that can reset shift adapts?
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for your reply mate. No I don't have a scan tool, what brand/model should I purchase? Could it possibly be the torque converter as it feels like that's what is locking and unlocking, just seems strange as such low km, and that it's fine when underload. Thanks again I really appreciate your help
@@mrbrad4637 Autel scanners are good. Very possible could be torque converter. Is the Trans for sure a ZF6HP26 or is it a 6R60?
@@GaryFerraro hi mate, thanks again for your help. It is definitely a Zf6HP26 .. The Australian high performance Turbo and V8 Ford Falcons come with the ZF6HP26 box. Mine is a 2008 model, the previous owner garaged it for most of its life hence it only has 55,000km
@@mrbrad4637 I would certainly like to see these shift adapts reset and take a look at the fill volume. Do you know anyone with a scan tool?
Really enjoy your videos, lotsa insight. Question: what has been your customers' experience with these refurbished solenoids from china on ebay ? Acceptable or unadvisable.
I would never use them, OE solenoids came way down in price, i only use OE
Hi Gary, your fan here in Georgia, US. Quick question. I have a 07 Range Rover SC with ZF 6HP26X and I have error code p0730 and p0735 gear 5 incorrect ratio. Am about to change ATF and filter. What are your recommendations? Please help
I have same issue but with 2 year what happened?
Gary, thank you for your videos. They are very informative. I have an hp19/21 with 130k miles that’s making a groan sound between 3rd and 4th, but only when running at operating temps. After a fluid/filter change, it’s still present. I have been considering replacing the solenoids and valve body seals, but I am hesitant to just throw parts at the issue. Have you seen this issue before? If you have, what was the remedy? Thank you very much in advance!
Alfred E. Neuman Sounds like the rear stator bushing is worn. Would you describe the noise as a squak?
Gary Ferraro yes, I have heard it referred to as a squak somewhere else. Additionally, I have no codes.
Alfred E. Neuman That usually happens when the clutch is worn out. Surprised it’s not setting a code.
I noticed you like to use copper bushings in other videos, are these considered oem replacements or an upgrade?
Also do you sell these repair parts for a diy’er?
WackyInflatableFlailingArmTubeMan The bushing are actually brass, upgrade from Babbit material. I do not sell parts but if you need I could hook you up with my supplier.
Gary Ferraro sure, what’s the number at your shop? I have some other questions too
on these transmissions 6HP26, the 2 cooler ports on the selector side of the transmission, is there a flow direction to follow to hook it up to an external oil cooler?
There is but im not sure which line is the return line
@@GaryFerraro Ok, i cant find any info anywhere as to show the in / out of oil flow. I assume the top is flow out and the lower being flow in. HMMMMM..
Gary where is your shop located? I need to get mine rebuilt I think too. What was the total cost?
mr beverly hills I’m in New York on Long island
Are you in the New York Area?
I love watching these videos. I was gonna do some overhaul on my transmission at weekend. Ive allready bought new oil pan and the brick seal. Do you reckon the rubber tubes/seals are worth changing, mean the ones you take off after removing mechatronics? Got 140k miles on mine.
Yes those are sealing sleeves, i would change them
Ok, I will order those also. Thank you for your reply.
@@denisovanhybrid9610 it went good. Put in washing detergent and drove for a while. Removed old oilpan and the amount of oil that comes out, removed mechatronics and changed the brick seal + 4 tube shaped seals. Put in new oem oil pan, filled in the same amount of new oil, and did full flush change after that. Reset adaptations, and after certain amount of driving, the transmission worked 110% perfect. No hesitating, no sharp gear changes, no flares, no slipping, no nothing. Just supermooth transmission with perfect lockup and perfect gearchanges. Double checked the oil colour after 2000miles, totally clear with nothing else than original colour in it.
Very very very well worth the money and effort. Highly recommend doing the same if you have 6hp.
I would vacuum test the valve body... especially E clutch and pressure valves. But of coarse it looks like bushing related problem
I believe it was yes, The owner of the car called me the other day to let me know how good the Trans is working.
Question about the E clutch drum test. I have checked for leaks where you described, and no leaks was discovered. But air is escaped right by the wall of the drum itself (90 degree, where the flat part around the shaft meets the wall with the gears), not by the shaft or the "welded" part, is that normal?
I would say no, that should be a solid air check, did you have codes for E drum?
Audi zf6hp19a. Code: p0783 3-4 shift malfunction.
It won't go into 4th under load. The E drum is not burned and the E clutch is more worn than the other clutches. The bushing on the pump looks very worn and the e drum can "wobble" when connected to the pump.
@@BergVX The worn bushing can be your problem, the worn bushing is allowing E clutch apply oil to escape, Between the worn clutch and bushing, that is probably the issue
Thank you for your answers. Keep up the good work!
@@GaryFerraro After some further inspections of the drum, there is a crack/opening going all the way around the outer side of the drum in the area as mentioned. If it's supposed to be one single part, then I found the problem.
Looks like worn bushings introduces vibrations which in the end causes the drum to crack due to fatigue.
Been trying to diagnose possible slipping on my BMW with the 6hp to no avail. Replacement transmission still experiencing slipping out of gear when getting into throttle.
Codes I keep getting are 2E7F, CD99, CD9D, CD9E, CDB0? Any experience with this? Thanks!
Can you tell me the definitions of the codes
Gary Ferraro these are the codes consistent no matter transmission
*2E7F - DME: EGS via PT-CAN2 and PT-CAN.
*CD99 - MESSAGE (torque request, EGS, 0xB5) faulty, receiver DME, transmitter EGS/HIM/SMG/DKG.
*CD9D - Message (transmission data, 0xBA) faulty, receiver DME, transmitter EGS/HIM/SMG/DKG.
*CD9E - message (transmission data 2, 0x1A2) faulty, receiver DME, transmitter EGS/SMG/DKG.
*CDB0 - message error (display, transmission data, 0x1D2), DME RECEIVER, ETC/HIM/SMG/DKG TRANSMITTER.
@@brandonsampang7917 Seem like communication codes, if you clear them how fast do they come back
Gary Ferraro
Those same codes will come up as soon as I put heavier throttle, and slip out of gear occurs.
i here you mention erikkson in a lot of your videos....they are the zf go to on the east coast correct....i live in ca and the ctsc is the go to out here
Yes, i purchase a lot from them and they do all my converters
Great videos Gary spent hours watching them 👍
I have bmw 335d 2006 with zf 6hp26 had a proper service done with bridge and valve seals new upgraded metal pan and full fluid machine flush, adaptations reset and relearn...
Since the service was done it started shifting rough 1->2->3 same with downshifts, sometimes it hangs on to 2 gear a bit too long 4->5->6 still really smooth...
Its a lot harsher when cold then it is when fully warmed
No fault codes stored
Adaptation pressures changed after service for A clutch from 312 to 426 and for B clutch from -174 to -272
Ive done a lot of research and thinking that maybe the fluid used was not lifeguard 6 but some alternative (service was done by a range rover specialist)
How should i go about diagnosing this problem and what should i try first ?
Would really appreciate some advice
crypt keeper I would try resetting the adapts again. If there are codes present in engine or trans, adaptation will not work, also make sure the trans temp is at least 130F
@@GaryFerraro did the adaptations reset again about 2 weeks and 500 miles ago, not much have changed...
What would be the next thing to try ?
It was shifting fine before the service was done
Thank you
@@cryptkeeper60 Ok, when you say service, what was done Fluid and filter? Are there any codes present in engine or trans?
@@GaryFerraro got the sleeve, bridge seal and 4 round seals replaced and upgraded metal pan with removable filter used mainly for range rover. From what i know the pan is slightly thiner and holds less fluid than the plastic one not sure if that makes a difference...
And then all the old fluid was machine flushed, was told it was lifeguard 6 used, but maybe not ?
And some seal conditioner was put in with new oil
What a burn! What could cause that Gary?
Long uphills at high speeds? Also, did hour customer mention where he got that aluminum bridge seal?
As Always top notch!
The burn was caused by a worn out rear stator bushing. He called me the other day to tell me all is working good and asked if he could post a comment on where he got the seal.
What causes the e-clutch to burn like that? anyway to prevent it?
The E clutch can burn out do to the Rear stator bushing being worn or the clutch material flakes off
hi, gary 2008 Mazda 3 4f27e i have code p0771, i changed master kit, drum R, Drum 3-4, oil pump is good. Loses the sequential change the AT appears. But pressure is very low. R 40 psi, PND 15 psi. D is good. Thanks so much, from colombia
If oil pump is good may have a bad valvebody, if you unplug the connector with the pressure gauge still hooked to the trans, does pressure go up or stay the same?
valvebody also changes, pressure is the same, the car doesn't lose power it'll not be the PCM, please help me
ovidio libreros unplug the trans connector with the gauge still hooked up, see what the pressure does, if it stays the same problem is inside the unit
My friend, I tried various ways, I took a 6hp2 transmission for a Range Rover 2.7 liter and put it inside the transmission for a Range Rover 6hp26 petrol V8 and you know it well, except that I only changed the chip. I changed everything inside the gearbox except the chip. I changed the internal and external sensors. Can you help me
You should go by the vin number if your going to be swapping transmissions, what is the problem?
Doesn't surprise me the ZF has a fault. Dealer servicing (ie ZF) is no good. Instructions for oil fill can't possibly put the required 9.5 liters in. My 6HP26 was slipping from cold and very jerky changes etc, hilarious. Drained the fluid got 1.5 liters out and pumped 7 liters in! Result super smooth changes, no slip a pleasure to drive. If the trans hasn't enough fluid it will go wrong pretty quickly. The ZF guide stating fill thru oil port until drain off then run the engine and refill is a joke. No way they ever get more than 3 liters in. That ZF there is cooked because of low oil. No surprise that ever more faults develop when the driver keeps running it.
That happened to someone, didn't have enough fluid because he had the car on ramps and it was not level, he leveled the car and it took 4 more quarts.
@@GaryFerraro I didn't even run the car when I filled the trans. Just pumped the fluid in. Don't know why ZF have this engine run procedure for filling. Worst method ever and risks seizing oil pump.
I have the 6hp19a in a 2004 audi s4. 3rd to 4th flare. Any suggestions?
Does the flare happen all the time or only hot? Any codes?
@Gary Ferraro so it's usually mid throttle getting on the highway, especially in sport. But full throttle it's perfect. No harsh downshift. Just that flare 3rd to 4th, which I'd say max 70 percent throttle. Amd happens hot or cold
Are there any hints to be learned from the 'fill pressure' & 'rapid fill time' adaptation values? I have no codes, but it just doesn't feel right. I've already done all my typical seals not that long ago.
What problem are you having? you can read the fill times in MB?
@Gary Ferraro My problem is in frequent stop situations, like multiple stop signs close together. If I don't stop for a full beat & gas it, I'll get a bit of a rev-up & a slam like I got rear-ended. I doesn’t do it in sports mode, where I think it starts off in 1st. In normal mode, I believe it starts in 2nd gear(?).
I don't do much freeway driving, but when I let off the throttle after getting up to freeway speed, I sometimes get a bit of a clunk. Not sure if it's upshifting at that point or not.
Mine is an '06 BMW e66. 190k miles. Should be long dead for this model.
I’m doing to solenoids regardless, and my pump seal(assuming) is seeping into the bell-housing. So I’m already looking at pulling the trans and pump, and wondering if I should just go all the way at this point & do the bushings. Doing all the clutch+steel plates really drives up the cost though.
I'm not sure what you mean by "MB", but I assume mbar?
Clutch A fill pressure: 130 mbar
Clutch A filling time: 32ms
Clutch B fill pressure: 295 mbar
Clutch B filling time: 8ms
Clutch C fill pressure: 406 mbar
Clutch C filling time: 6ms
Clutch D fill pressure: 200 mbar
Clutch D filling time: 8ms
Clutch E fill pressure: 270 mbar
Clutch E filling time: 0ms
P.S. - It's really awesome of you to answer random people's questions on here. You just happen to be on the wrong coast for me to visit.
@@jooper99 Ok, question, have you checked the fluid level? Clutch C seems a little high
@@GaryFerraro Yes. I've been keeping an eye on the fluid level since I discovered the leak and have been topping it off as needed. Don't really loose all that much.
@@jooper99 ok does it work the same when the car is cold and hot?
just curious...mostly snap on for you
Yes, that is the only tool truck that we have around here
I am sure there has been a fire inside the transmission housing.
Gary, can i use the bmw 6hp26 rebuild kit on my audi 6hp26a61. If just the friction plates are the same the would great because the 3-4 shift was really bad it would go into safe mode.
some of the seals may be the same and some may not, The E clutch frictions have different thickness
@@GaryFerraroi couldn't find anyone to rebuild my transmission locally. Im just going to replace the e clutch friction and steel plates. Are the snap ring and pressure plate usually bad because i couldn't find does parts? Also do you know the torque spec for the pump?
@@jar4807 If the drum was heated up, pressure plate and snap ring may be bad , open it and see what you have. Torque spec for pump tp case?
@@GaryFerraro yes pump to case
@@jar4807 I do 100 Inch Pounds.
great video thanks for sharing!I have 07 bmw 650i with zf6hp26.the trans want to a limp mode and no reverse. when I got the car it was parked for a long time do to the problem and have a E clutch monitoring code, so when i took the oil pan off there was less than liter of oil in the pan. replaced the bridge seal and put new oil. started the car and delete all the fault code and reset the adaptation, now the car wont move at all when I put it in drive i feel the trans engage but it wont move, with the car on the lift only when i put it in N and give it gas the tire move but not in D or R. no error code or failsafe mode set.when i took the trans apart i found very burnt E clutch, and slight burnt A clutch.I'm looking to get the bushing kit replace. and get new clutch. can you please help me if there anything else can I look at or check or if you have any insight on the problem I'll appreciate it. many thanks!!
If this did not move, you may want to check the pump, i had a couple of 650I and the pumps went bad
@@GaryFerraro thanks for the reply. I've already did check the pump but nothing wrong with it.
@@mohammedx8293 ok, so the car at this point does not move? does it move when cold and not hot? any noises coming from the trans?
@@GaryFerraro yes, it won't move at all cold or hot, it had a little noise before I fill the oil no noise after. i have the trans disassemble but i can't find anything wrong beside the burnet E clutch.
@@mohammedx8293 No clutches burnt or splines stipped? do you have a spare valvebody?
How much do you charge for a rebuild? I have 6hp26 that’s I feel exhibiting the same symptoms you explain in 3/4 5 and 6th on a 645. Location?
Im in New York on Long Island, are you in the New York Area?
No sir. California. But for some obvious reasons, I trust you far more than any arms reach transmission shop local to me.
Unless you have other rebuilt trans and I can ship mine with a core charge. Email me. jberg6r.1.9@gmail we can exchange numbers and discuss options or if you can recommend me one close to me. Thank you
@@boosted6ers I do not know anyone out there, i will e-mail you when i get home
Gary Ferraro sounds good, looking forward to your email. Thank you!
Gary what’s the contact info for your shop?
Code 4f89 did have any time this error ?
I'm sure it did, very common fault
Great job man.....
hi gary.. thanks for the video.. whats probably the problem on a tranny im working.. its a 2005 bmw x5, e53, 6hp26. already rebuild, new clutches and seals, new torque converter, new mechatronics, but still 4th gear is slipping. i have a code 4F89. 4th engagement is slipping. do you what should be the problem?
Did you install new bushings?
@@GaryFerraro yes. new bushibgs installed
@@e-boydtech9080 Slips 4th all the time? or when hot?
@@GaryFerraro yes. i replace all bushings with a new one
@@GaryFerraro when its its cold, its fine when normal driving at 2,000 rpm.. but when you did 2500rpm and up it will slip.. when its hot, all the way it will slip.. only 4th gear
1. Like
2. Play
3. Watch & listen carefully every second of video
Mine on my 2005 navigator has a shudder from 45-60 wat can it be and how much should I expect to pay to get fixed
Does it feel like a wash board or maybe like your driving over rail road tracks?
Gary Ferraro yes like driving on rail road tracks
@@MrThe302crew That is a converter chatter
Gary Ferraro so I need a new converter?
@@MrThe302crew The converters do have problems, have you tried changing the fluid?
If my 2010 Land Rover LR4 with the zf6hp26x will only slip between 3-4 when it is hot, has been driven for a long period of time, or it has been driven hard up a hill or on normal road, and will put it into limp home mode. do you think it is the bridge seal and valve body seals or do you think it is the e-clutch/e-drum as well. Other observers I’ve noticed, if not much power is applied during the shift between 3-4 and it is not too hot it rpm gage will fly up about 200-300 rpm but then go into 4th with a smooth shift. If more power is put down during the shift it will shift perfectly normal as if nothing is wrong. Also when the transmission is cold it will have a little bump when shifting to 3-4 but nothing terrible enough to put it into limp home mode. Other then that the transmission is flawless. (Note when it goes into lip home mode it will display transmission fault on the gage cluster but no engine light so I doubt it is a solenoid issue) Please let me know what you think the issue is I want my car to work.
I would say either rear stator bushing, solenoids or the E clutches, they may be worn out.
Not the bridge seal or sleeves, the E clutch is not fed through those valvebody seals. What codes do you have?
Gary Ferraro not completely sure of the codes, don’t have a code reader nor has the car been driven a lot anymore since the codes have been cleared. They haven’t happened Because we don’t drive the car a lot. When it did happen I know the engine light wouldn’t turn on and the car would just read transmission fault. The car was said to have a “transmission rebuilt” but I believe the mechanic was dishonesties didn’t do it all. Are you sure you wouldn’t think it’s the seals, a lot of forums about the transmission fault issue say it’s the seals but I’m just not sure and quite honestly I’m already overwhelmed with the amount that was spent on the rebuilt transmission.
@@jimmybrooks1650 The E clutch is not fed through those seals. The B-C and D clutches are fed through those seals. How long ago was it rebuilt? Where are you located?
Gary Ferraro also if I were to get the eclutch rebuilt new seals new rear stator bushing and new solenoids how much do you think that would run with labor and everything included. (Note I live in California so things will cost a little bit more)
Gary Ferraro a little over 2 years ago, 16,000 miles ago. We gave up on it because no matter how many times we took it in they would say they did something to fix it and the same exact fault would happen.
Do you remember the price on this job? Thinking of dropping off my 6hp26 off to you.
Where are you located? What is year,make,model and engine size
@@GaryFerraro 2006 BMW 750li 4.8l V8 (n62b48)
@@handleit7881 getting the car here or just the trans?(car is preferred)
@@GaryFerraro I had planned on having the trans out for a reman torque converter and full rebuild of the valve body. Figured some new clutches and bushings would make all the difference. I have no codes but hang ups on 2-3 & 3-4 (car repeatedly tries to bang into gear but can't until you let off the gas pedal) when cold or warm. Coming off the brakes and onto the gas car revs stationary and bangs into gear. (Already claimed 2 differentials) Also a weird groan when in drive but not park. Solenoids have never been changed with 160k. Bridge seal and feed tubes changed @ 120k
What is the name of your shop? I want to send my transmission to you.
You can e-mail me at
gsferraro@yahoo.com
Hi, I have a 2006 land rover lr3 4.4L and am not sure but I think it is the same as a 6HP26 transmission. Would it be the same as this if it was 4x4? Mine is slipping in 2nd to 3rd and also 4th slips if rpms are to high. I was thinking I could probably use one of these BMW ones as used donor to replace since the land rover ones are hard to find in my area or really expensive. Wikipedia has stated I probably have a 6HP26Z or 6HP26X.
if 4x4 probably the 6HP26X Has the fluid level been checked? are there any codes?
@@GaryFerraro I changed the fluid out with that febi stuff few months ago. It was burnt. But still gets me around but not dependable. I can't recall codes, I can check when I get home. Took it to a shop here and they said they didn't tell me more then I already know. Its slipping. They wanted $$$$ to tear it down and find out.
@@UptownFights What type of scan tool do you have? Can you see clutch fill times?
@@GaryFerraro Just a land Rover Specific obd2 tool called Icarsoft I930.
Current transmission codes are as follows:
P0730 Incorrect gear ratio,
P0783 3-4 shift,
P0741 Torque converter clutch soleniod - performance or stuck off,
P0732 Gear 2 incorrect ratio.
@@UptownFights change out the solenoids and fresh bridge seal and tube seals
Hi Gary
really enjoy watching your vids on these transmissions
Can these transmission cause a vibration driving at 100kms ?
My ZF6HP26 has done 195000kms and has terrible shifting when cold gets a little better when heats up
I’m going to rebuild my valve body was the sonax zip kit and new solenoids
I did experience an odd shift at the lights it didn’t want change gears seemed to stay in first and rev then it changed
My trans seems to have the harsh and flared shifting the normal complaint
I am concerned about the bush conditions and clutch packs due to the transmission shifting how ever
I have no Codes in the EGS healthy
Transmission has been serviced every 80000kms
Can I ask what you would do in this case ?
Mines a BMW E60 540i
Thanks
The vibration your getting, does it feel like going over rough road or rail road tracks? With the other issues, i would do the valvebody first and replace the solenoids, new fluid and filter too.
When finished, the shift adapts must be reset or the car may work the same way
Gary Ferraro hello thanks for the reply I will take your advice
Yes funnily enough at times Yes it does feel like railways racks corrugation evident at the higher speeds
The reason I was leaning towards transmission and questioning is I have done everything else that could potentially cause a vibration
Yes I can reset all adaptions I have BMW ISTA +
@@mattwoodcraft474 If it feels like a rough road or rail road tracks that very well could be the converter, issue with solenoid may cause too
Gary Ferraro thanks Gary I will look into rev converter as I’m removing my trans
What generally happens with the converter ? Out of balance
@@mattwoodcraft474 The internal clutch may be bad, on these converters there may be a small clutch pack
2007 ranger 5R55E i have a P0731 gear ratio in first. Ebriting is ok inside 3 diferent valve bodys
Juan Castro ok so you s?changed the valve 3 times still same problem? Does this slip on takeoff? Any other codes?
@@GaryFerraro not slip on the lift it is working fine as soon as star driving come right away
Not slip on lift? your driving the car on the road or running it through the gears on the lift?
@@GaryFerraro there are no codes on the lift. Shift is ok. As soon as i start driving, the codes appear right away. It has different speed sensors & different MLPS
@@JuanCastro-ik9ne do you have a scanner that shows live data? a bad speed sensor will make gear ratio codes show up
I replaced all the clutch discs and steels after an overhaul 4,-5 slip and now I got the 3-4 slip,
I still got a loud bang downshifting
Did you replace the rear stator bushing? and reset shift adapts?
@@GaryFerraro
Yes on stator bushing
No on Adaptations
Was dealing with a 53FC restored power now 5F3A,
Installing a new vtg motor
Monday.
And then we'll reset adaptation.
@@GaryFerraro after I fixed the valve body the three-four slip went bye-bye.
@@johnbarrett3170 What did you do? solenoids?
Initially came in with a cd99 code with black transmission fluid,
Tear down revealed no problems with the clutches, valve body and torque converter we're obviously skipped on overhaul done in 2019.(date on TCM)
Customer skipped on torque converter, accumulator pistons for valve body,. Used Chinese solenoids and refused ZF transmission fluid.
After reinstall had a 4-5 slip slip with torque converter shutter.
.
wheres your shop?
I’m in New York on Long Island
@@GaryFerraro I'm upstate NY Good to know I have a Jag s type if I have a problem I will check you out...everyone up here cant fix anything on jaguars.
Hello my friend i have a big problem and i couldn't solve it my friend can you help me ?? I have a Range Rover Petrol V8 Automatic Transmission 6hp26 I changed the gearbox completely and I did not change the electronic chip only and unfortunately I could not start with it I have the code p0501-00 What could it be Thank you
Have you tried to start in neutral?
Rob Brice, your post did not show up, you can e-mail me at gsferraro@yahoo.com
I am from Georgia and our professional car masters have a great time helping me please and advice
Im sorry I totally missed your post, do you have a question?
@@GaryFerraro Mr. Gary I wrote to you a while ago, and your advice helped me a lot, exactly what it was you were supposed to do. zf5hp24. I replaced the damaged "A drum". And one reason was left out when "D". You enter the mode until the 2500 turns and the car does not get out of place and switches to emergency mode at 5 speeds. And when you go 3 or 4 kilometers you stop the car, turn it off and when it starts everything works fine. And if you stop for another 30 minutes it still has the same problem. And maybe you can guess what the cause may be and where to look for a problem? please. And I just replaced the damaged "A drum"
@@GaryFerraro Where can I find a problem? When I drive after 3-4 kilometers I stop the car. Then I will build the car again and everything will work fine
ok, so the car revs up to 2500 then starts to move? Then turn the car off and start it again and it works? Have you had it scanned for codes
@@GaryFerraro Yes, after 2500 min / h it starts moving from the fifth step
Heyyy love u video ., just camera quality is not good
Ok, Will check the settings, I do upload in HD. Thanks
lol transmissions are all pretty much the same
LOL, Thanks for watching, Please subscribe, any questions just let me know
Easier to break down than and old c4 or c6.
@@yarleumas Yes, I agree
Gruß aus Deutschland
Greetings from New York
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