Excellent. We're working in an apartment complex and are installing outlets and switches. As plans keep changing, it got a little confusing regarding which outlets were to be GFCI and which receptacles were 15A or 20A (back to the dedicated receptacle or multiple receptacles on a circuit issue). Then there was the laundry room, and distance of receptacle to the washer. Am really finding value in your videos. Thanks.
Around time 5:00 you talked about appliance garages. 210.8 says the gfci must be readily accessible. This indicates that the recepticles inside the garage must be gfci protected but cannot be a gfci. Readily accessible definition talks about not overcoming obstacles to operate. Keep up the great work bro.
Also, 210.52.(C).(3). Talks about appliance garage recepticles not counting as the required counter top recepticles for spacing, however, I expect 210.8.(6). Still requires them to be gfci protected.
As it pertains to "whenever electricity comes through a finished wall it is referred to as an outlet," (1:41 in video, 6:05 in review) does that even include things like junction boxes, where there's no light or switch or receptacle, but merely some junctions? Or what about just plain wall-plates where there's no receptacle or switch, but live wires BEHIND the plate? Are those included in "outlet"?
I've got a ~1962 build house, where all the 12-2 are white (I had to do a double and triple take on that to make sure I was reading the NM-B jacket right), and it bugs me so much that the peninsula doesn't have a receptacle on it. It sure would be way more convenient than having to resort to the receptacles on the other side of the (albeit small) kitchen. Seeing code like this, where it is now required to have receptacles there, makes me so glad for residents and owners going forward, that they're going to have so much more convenient access to power, and so much LESS risk to health/safety by extension cables and malarkey like that that have caused far too many fires over the decades.
Type NM-B cable did not come out until the 1980's. Therefore original wire in all homes built in 1962 would be type NM cable. Somebody woke NEC up to report type NM cables in hot attic down South were detereating.so they rep laced what appeared to be a type TW insulation with far superior appearing type TWHN insulation. Best practice is to always install more receptacles closer together then the code requires. My house was built in 1964 and except ft or the kitchen glibly had #14 guage type NM cable with a flimsy #16 guage ground wire. House only had 19 receptacles when I moved in but added over 25 over the years. Some did not get used for over 20'years until I moved furniture around..I have central AC but installed a dedicated 20'amp receptacle under every bedroom window in case I had to th ft ow in a temporary window aur conditioner.. Also added six three way switches & two four way switches.
@@garbo8962 THANK YOU for typing that all out!! I often wonder about naming, but hadn't yet looked up (or remembered?) what the "-B" was for nonmetallic (NM) cable, so thanks for explaining that bit of history! And good on you for adding in all those ~25+ receptacles!
Question for ya and hoping I could get your input as soon as you are able! We are doing a very custom home for a client, they don't want to see receptacles on the wall or anything and make my life hard. They have an office, all countertops around north, east and west walls, however they also have cabinets. Would I need to follow 2/4' rule for these counter top spaces for an office? Completely detached in another section from the kitchen ? Or can I just use general 6/12 rule for wall space and make the cabinet guys cut them in to their cabinets around 18" from sub floor? I hope this makes sense and your answer would mean the world to me
Hi , I still confused about the outlet meaning. So, about the code, the 4 feet rule is fitting for even lighting switch and any other “outlet” that is not only for “receptacle outlet”, is that right? Thanks.
Your video is really useful. I still have a question or maybe more kind of an issue. We do not want outlets on the backsplash, we were thinking about having an outlet strip under the wall cabinet, but it seems this option is not valid (up to code). Is there any option for not having the outlets on the wall of the backslapsh nor the counter???
Came across your profile when searching for someone who may have an answer to my question. I'm in the middle of a new build and opted not to pay for the kitchen island through the builder and I want to personalize and get my kitchen island to my liking. I've been reading that per 2020 NEC guidelines you have to have 1-2 electrical outlets on kitchen islands. So will I be able to put my own kitchen island in if I don't get an island through the builder? Because once they put flooring in I'm not sure how electrical would be achieved. Especially with it being a concrete slab.
If you have not done this yet, he is right. Have the builder run power to the island/,island location for your future use. This is a link toa RUclips video from THIS OLD HOUSES showing exactly what you asked about. ruclips.net/video/9756YcjRCss/видео.html
A concrete slab won't slow anyone down from drilling threw it. But you have to be careful if you have under floor heating... one nick and the entire thing is useless.
Aside from cost, would there really be any problems with putting a receptacle in every single stud's 16"?? Like, could one for new work put in receptacles every single possible place along counters or floor lines? Is cost of the receptacles and for doing the labor the only thing preventing this? Is the voltage drop along the line/circuit and the increased number of possible points of failure negligible or significant enough to render an upper limitation on how many receptacles is reasonable?
It's very rare to have 20A appliances in a residential setting in our part of the country. The 15A outlet is capable of carrying the circuit load, but not supporting a 20A appliance plugged into one individual outlet.
You said that minimum 2 circuits required for the kitchen. You have 4 receptacles in the video. Does it mean you installed 4 circuits or just 2 receptacles on each circuit?
@jameskarrie298 this answer is VERY wrong. you can NOT use a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp breaker. it is the opposite. you CAN use a 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp breaker. if you do it your way the receptacle will melt or catch fire before breaker pops.
@James Karrie DUDE READ WHAT YOU OPRIGANELY WROTE, you stated using 15 AMP receptacle on 20 amp circuit. you said 15 amp receptacle not 20 amp... you said i was wrong because you stated the amount of receptacles on a 20 circuit not the amperage of the receptacle itself.. You CAN NOT HAVE ANY 15 AMP RECEPTICLE ON A 20 AMP BREAKER PERIOD..
You are talking about amount of receptacle on one circuit compared to type of receptacle which will mess people up causing them to buy the cheaper one and fail inspection and cause a fire in there home...
@James Karrie well you definitely got me on that one but i could never see any inspector letting that go as they have the last say in the end. i wish i could save some cash using all 15 amp receptacles in my new house.
@@orlandosparks831 The reason for this is no appliances are made that plug into a standard outlet that draw more than 15apms. Suppose one could plug many into a 3way adapter. But that would go against the labeled purpose of the adapter.
⭕️You’ll have to update the 2023 code change for requiring receptacles on islands and peninsulas. They are no longer required. You just need to provide future means to add them, like a conduit or junction box. Major code change.
Only needs to be updated, not removed. Like others have pointed out, the 2023 NEC has changed for peninsula/island countertop. More specifically NEC 210.52(C)(3) needs to be highlighted. Ryan Jackson's video on this explains this well for the optional aspect of this implementation.
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Fantastic video! No rambling on or 5 minute pre-amble. Precise and succinct. Good job!!
Excellent. We're working in an apartment complex and are installing outlets and switches. As plans keep changing, it got a little confusing regarding which outlets were to be GFCI and which receptacles were 15A or 20A (back to the dedicated receptacle or multiple receptacles on a circuit issue). Then there was the laundry room, and distance of receptacle to the washer. Am really finding value in your videos. Thanks.
Amazing!this is the most clear explanation of the receptacle code in RUclips! Thank you. Now I know what’s going on!!
Very useful! I wish you covered voltage and GFCI, but I will look in your other videos to try to find it.
Around time 5:00 you talked about appliance garages.
210.8 says the gfci must be readily accessible. This indicates that the recepticles inside the garage must be gfci protected but cannot be a gfci.
Readily accessible definition talks about not overcoming obstacles to operate.
Keep up the great work bro.
Also, 210.52.(C).(3). Talks about appliance garage recepticles not counting as the required counter top recepticles for spacing, however, I expect 210.8.(6). Still requires them to be gfci protected.
As it pertains to "whenever electricity comes through a finished wall it is referred to as an outlet," (1:41 in video, 6:05 in review) does that even include things like junction boxes, where there's no light or switch or receptacle, but merely some junctions?
Or what about just plain wall-plates where there's no receptacle or switch, but live wires BEHIND the plate?
Are those included in "outlet"?
I've got a ~1962 build house, where all the 12-2 are white (I had to do a double and triple take on that to make sure I was reading the NM-B jacket right), and it bugs me so much that the peninsula doesn't have a receptacle on it. It sure would be way more convenient than having to resort to the receptacles on the other side of the (albeit small) kitchen.
Seeing code like this, where it is now required to have receptacles there, makes me so glad for residents and owners going forward, that they're going to have so much more convenient access to power, and so much LESS risk to health/safety by extension cables and malarkey like that that have caused far too many fires over the decades.
Type NM-B cable did not come out until the 1980's. Therefore original wire in all homes built in 1962 would be type NM cable. Somebody woke NEC up to report type NM cables in hot attic down South were detereating.so they rep laced what appeared to be a type TW insulation with far superior appearing type TWHN insulation. Best practice is to always install more receptacles closer together then the code requires. My house was built in 1964 and except ft or the kitchen glibly had #14 guage type NM cable with a flimsy #16 guage ground wire. House only had 19 receptacles when I moved in but added over 25 over the years. Some did not get used for over 20'years until I moved furniture around..I have central AC but installed a dedicated 20'amp receptacle under every bedroom window in case I had to th ft ow in a temporary window aur conditioner.. Also added six three way switches & two four way switches.
@@garbo8962 THANK YOU for typing that all out!!
I often wonder about naming, but hadn't yet looked up (or remembered?) what the "-B" was for nonmetallic (NM) cable, so thanks for explaining that bit of history!
And good on you for adding in all those ~25+ receptacles!
Question for ya and hoping I could get your input as soon as you are able!
We are doing a very custom home for a client, they don't want to see receptacles on the wall or anything and make my life hard. They have an office, all countertops around north, east and west walls, however they also have cabinets. Would I need to follow 2/4' rule for these counter top spaces for an office? Completely detached in another section from the kitchen ? Or can I just use general 6/12 rule for wall space and make the cabinet guys cut them in to their cabinets around 18" from sub floor? I hope this makes sense and your answer would mean the world to me
Can you talk about the new 2023 NEC code for kitchens: Islands or Peninsula’s? Or do you already have a video addressing these changes.
👍👍😉😉 Thank you!
Hi , I still confused about the outlet meaning. So, about the code, the 4 feet rule is fitting for even lighting switch and any other “outlet” that is not only for “receptacle outlet”, is that right? Thanks.
Do these rules apply to a basement wet bar?
Your video is really useful. I still have a question or maybe more kind of an issue. We do not want outlets on the backsplash, we were thinking about having an outlet strip under the wall cabinet, but it seems this option is not valid (up to code). Is there any option for not having the outlets on the wall of the backslapsh nor the counter???
Plugmold
Could you use 15 amp outlets?
Came across your profile when searching for someone who may have an answer to my question.
I'm in the middle of a new build and opted not to
pay for the kitchen island through the builder and
I want to personalize and get my kitchen island to
my liking.
I've been reading that per 2020 NEC guidelines
you have to have 1-2 electrical outlets on kitchen
islands. So will I be able to put my own kitchen
island in if I don't get an island through the
builder? Because once they put flooring in I'm not
sure how electrical would be achieved. Especially
with it being a concrete slab.
If you have not done this yet, he is right. Have the builder run power to the island/,island location for your future use.
This is a link toa RUclips video from THIS OLD HOUSES showing exactly what you asked about.
ruclips.net/video/9756YcjRCss/видео.html
A concrete slab won't slow anyone down from drilling threw it. But you have to be careful if you have under floor heating... one nick and the entire thing is useless.
I found that mounting the outlets horizonal above counter tops makes it easier to plug two items in.
What’s the closest distance required for an outlet to be installed to a stovetop ?
An outlet must be installed within 24" of wall space from a break in the countertop caused by an obstruction such as a sink, stove or similar other.
What about the dishwasher receptacle ?
Well explained
Excellent.
Aside from cost, would there really be any problems with putting a receptacle in every single stud's 16"??
Like, could one for new work put in receptacles every single possible place along counters or floor lines?
Is cost of the receptacles and for doing the labor the only thing preventing this?
Is the voltage drop along the line/circuit and the increased number of possible points of failure negligible or significant enough to render an upper limitation on how many receptacles is reasonable?
@@ElectricProAcademy Some places have a local code limit.
Awesome!😎💯😎
PLEASE DO MORE OF THESE!!!@!@!@
If the circuits are 20A. and GFCI protected, why does no one ever seem to install actual 20A. receptacles at each outlet? This has bugged me forever.
It's very rare to have 20A appliances in a residential setting in our part of the country. The 15A outlet is capable of carrying the circuit load, but not supporting a 20A appliance plugged into one individual outlet.
You said that minimum 2 circuits required for the kitchen. You have 4 receptacles in the video. Does it mean you installed 4 circuits or just 2 receptacles on each circuit?
Multiple outlets can be on 1 circuit.
@@vids595 got it thanks. Just called city, they confirmed 2 circuit 2 outlet each, 20A GFCI protected
good video but the aulet has to be 3 feet away from the sink consiter wet area
Sir, nec 210..(A,).(7). Uses a distance of 6 feet. If you have a better reference please let me know.
210.52 in 2020 Dwelling Unit Receptacle Outlets
We use 15 amp split receptacles
@jameskarrie298 this answer is VERY wrong. you can NOT use a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp breaker. it is the opposite. you CAN use a 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp breaker. if you do it your way the receptacle will melt or catch fire before breaker pops.
@James Karrie DUDE READ WHAT YOU OPRIGANELY WROTE, you stated using 15 AMP receptacle on 20 amp circuit. you said 15 amp receptacle not 20 amp... you said i was wrong because you stated the amount of receptacles on a 20 circuit not the amperage of the receptacle itself.. You CAN NOT HAVE ANY 15 AMP RECEPTICLE ON A 20 AMP BREAKER PERIOD..
You are talking about amount of receptacle on one circuit compared to type of receptacle which will mess people up causing them to buy the cheaper one and fail inspection and cause a fire in there home...
@James Karrie well you definitely got me on that one but i could never see any inspector letting that go as they have the last say in the end. i wish i could save some cash using all 15 amp receptacles in my new house.
@@orlandosparks831 The reason for this is no appliances are made that plug into a standard outlet that draw more than 15apms. Suppose one could plug many into a 3way adapter. But that would go against the labeled purpose of the adapter.
⭕️You’ll have to update the 2023 code change for requiring receptacles on islands and peninsulas. They are no longer required. You just need to provide future means to add them, like a conduit or junction box. Major code change.
👌👍
Old code on peninsula requirements. Check 2023, no longer required.
This video should be removed from RUclips. It outdated and does not comply with the current 2023 code.
How so exactly?
Only needs to be updated, not removed. Like others have pointed out, the 2023 NEC has changed for peninsula/island countertop. More specifically NEC 210.52(C)(3) needs to be highlighted. Ryan Jackson's video on this explains this well for the optional aspect of this implementation.