1st question, I would stay away from concrete mix as it can contain trace amounts of iron which could wreak havoc with motors. Suggestion-use tile grout instead! It spreads easier, and sets up like concrete when wet!
Another option for "once a month" purchases... I also am on fixed retirement income. As a way to stretch that dollar amount look for free or substitute items you can use on your layout. A scoop of sand from the beach, grind up dry leaves for ground cover in the trees, cereal boxes for roads or small structures, etc. It's surprising the number of items outside your door that is to scale and free!
Excellent point. Also there are lots of shops/stores that sell pre-owned items at discounted prices, which can be a way to go down. However, you have to be careful when buying locomotives and make sure you purchase from a reputable dealer and the locomotives have been tested.😊🇬🇧
I'm always reluctant to suggest to an adult to purchase a starter set when beginning the hobby. Traditionally these sets have low quality equipment, both mechanically and visually. They are made to meet a price point and are expected to entertain a kid for a limited number of uses. Better, I believe, is to make strategic purchases from the used market. No matter the scale, plan to spend $100 to $150 on one good engine. Cars in Both N and HO can be purchase in the $10-15 range. I agree track should be an early purchase once you have a track plan in hand. The manufacturer doesn't matter. I model in N. If I was starting fresh, my choice would be to use Atlas flex track and Peco turnouts. The Peco turnouts are more expensive, but since they have an internal spring to hold the points in place, it save the cost of turnout machines. I would start with a DC system for a one engine layout. Once you've decided this is your hobby, look into DCC. That won't be a one month purchase, but I think you can still get entry level equipment in the $300 range. I'm a Digi Trax owner and user. Unless your occupation is computer programming, I would look at the NCE system first. It has a less formidable learning curve than Digi Trax,
As a professional decoder installer, I prefer programming mine and my customers locos on the mainline so as I make changes, I see/hear them instantly (lighting and sound) and if I need to test, I escape programming and I don't have to move my loco back n forth between the main and programming track. As long as you don't have another locomotive with the same address, you'll have no issue programming. JMRI does make things easier as it's drop down menus vs. manual inputs of CV Values. I use a programming track if I need to read a locomotives address and see if it has a consisting address before I do factory resets. I do agree on the starter set. At least you can start running trains on the floor while you build benchwork. Good answers Jimmy! - Jason
What DCC system do you use? I can test sounds and all other things on th prog track just like if it was standing on the main. I also prefer pom for most things as then I don't have to remove equipment from the layout, but that's the only reason. I can actually use pom on my pt.
@@benbedothu I have a NCE ProCab that I've had for about 15 years. I'm sure their are newer systems out there but for a layout the size I'm building, I'm not interested in investing in a newer system with the cost I already put into mine until it goes kaput one day. I could in theory have a track assigned as a program track but wire it on the main bus line. With NCE, you have two types of programming: OPS and Paged. Paged is for a dedicated programming track that kills power but everything is programmed in a broadcast. OPS programming leaves power on but you have to specify which address your programming to.
I agree with you on having a budget for modeling. Had to pass on several new locomotives as the exchange rate between Canadian and American dollars is getting expensive but I did pick up some new box cars.
Construct your own buildings. Camera boxes, cereal boxes, etc, are a basis for hi-rise structures for urban scenes. Transluscent report covers in various colors make good windows for such structures and plastic zip ties make good ladders, beams and guard rail replicas, or walkways on petrol plants. Find materials outside the hobby stores if you're on a budget. The light grey cardboard on the interiors of some pasta boxes make for good concrete and roadways. Plastic drinking straws make for good support beams for highways and such if you model in N-scale. They can be painted. Good hobby shops often have used track and decent, older locomotives and cars, and have often already been retrofitted with knuckle couplers. Also, neat old, used structures, often out of production, can be found in the second-hand bins of model train stores. And, chalk is a good weathering resource for making cars look used or dingy. You don't need an airbrush.
Re, addressing on the main. I have a DCC++ / JMRI setup and I've only got one loco that will accept an address change on the main. All others want to be done on the programming track. Most other changes can be done on the main.
Regarding powering multiple Arduinos: I have a 12 VDC power bus which is powered by a 2A wall wart. I just hook the Arduinos straight to the bus. The Arduino documentation says it will tolerate input voltage from 7 to 15 volts. I currently have on this system: eight Tortoise machines, seven Arduino Nanos, one SoundFX board from Adafruit, and multiple (more than 20) LEDs and 12 V light bulbs. According to my calculations, I am currently using about 0.7 amps.
I have a programing track but feeding that is a rotary sw. Feeding the sw. is programing from my digitrax on one lug. Power from the main on second lug. DC on the third lug. ( That's to test old engines before cconverting to DCC . So i read on programing track through sw. . Install decoder and program then sw. rotary sw. to main and test it. No handling of engine. I can keep going back and fore as needed. One other thing, the test track is mounted on a 1x2 board and hinged. When not in use I lift it off my bench and it stands ( locked in ) straight up so I can use my bench.
I recently installed a TCS decoder in a locomotive and discovered that CV1 - the short address - is the ONLY CV that cannot be programmed on the main. Most decoders provide instructions on how to program the locomotive address on the main. It is usually a several step - and HIGHLY non-intuitive - process.
I just want to add to the foreign aspect, there's a French heritage railroad that I really like. It is 1m gauge and that seems difficult to get an accurate model that would correspond to what I want. It would have to be HO scale, but with some like e or m after that, I'm not sure. That makes it a bit too large for the space I've got. I've ended up picking up some 4-wheels, 2-axle German passenger cars along with a pannier tank and a Class 04 shunter to match what the 'prototype' uses, simple to get as close as I can with what I can get my hands on for something that ISN'T as much as what some of these French trains cost. With that, I'll likely have to scratch build a lot of my structures, or get photographs.
I sold Bachman trains and now years later i have decided to build a Marklin set-up as I like the German made models and they use metals for their construct. For now, AC is good but will do some dcc in the future. I guess Marklins rr's aren't too popular?
Every Wednesday morning on trash day, I drive 5 miles around my neighborhood and collect items on the curbside and sell it on Offer Up. I make a couple hundred dollars a month doing that to buy my trains.
Please note that British N trains can cause problems when run with US N trains due to British trains being built in a sort of compromised scale in order to solve a technological problem which should no longer exist; Japanese trains much the same as they are made to simulate (not mathematically accurate) look of Cape gauge. All the states of the Eastern seaboard of Australia, each have their own state network gauges: Cape gauge (3'6") for Queensland; Standard for NSW; and Old Irish (5'3") for Victoria. And then it gets complicated. Vittoria 11.
As a modeler of Japanese railways, even with the slightly bumped up scale (1:150), they still have a smaller profile than the standard gauge Shinkansen, so there should be no trouble there.
@@atshinkansen7439 There may be, when you try to couple up the Japanese rollingstock to American stock. It's more complex than simply being 10 scales bigger.
@@thoughtengine My non-MU equipment mates up fine with the coupler on the Micro-Trains coupler height gauge, so I still don’t think that will be an issue. Now placing a small 2-axle freight car next to a large Amercan 60’ car might pose an issue on curves, but that would be dependent on the minimum radius used. I’ve run my Japanese trains on my local N-Trak club’s layout with no problems other than a couple Shinkansen being rather sensitive to some of the trackwork.
Hey Jimmy. Thoroughly enjoy your channel. Back in 1965-1975 I belonged to an ho club in my home town. After 45 years I would like to build my own budget layout. Need recommendations on a good DC power source and controls. Do they still make manual control switches? Thanks so much.
My question. What factors should you consider when choosing a track layout. I'm just starting out, and I'm to the point where I want to choose a track layout. But I can't decide. I've bought multiple books with layouts. I keep paging through them. One day I think one plan is the way I'll go, the next day it'll be a different layout.
I'm new and before I build my first layout I watched a ton of RUclips videos. I also built a 2x2 diorama for practice. Is there somewhere I can go to to get some professional critiques on what I've done?
Giles Kennedy here from Crossroads OVR; great insight. My question for next month if you could, if you do a general model railroad RUclips channel; how can you help boost subscribers as you retain your evolution of the vision of the channel? I am a family and travel columnist for our local webzine, Columbus Wired and do a lot of cross promoting on both my website and theirs
Turn table what do you know about them have you ever done one is it a pro or con to have a turntable could you do a video on one if you have done one to kind of help us learn or find out more about how the best way to go about doing it and what mistakes did you run into so we can avoid them
If you pull up your Kato Unitrack to reuse, how do you remove the caulk you used to hold it down? Is there an easy way to do it? Same for if you used hot glue to secure it.
I have my track and roadbed placed down and I’m onto the ballasting stage of my layout, but I don’t know if I should put my ground cover down first. What’s your thought on this?
I’m very new to this hobby and I can’t find a answer to this question. So this might be a silly question. I’m still DC and I bought a b and c locomotives. If I put them on the track by themselves they are all drastically different speeds. Does it hurt the motors, or do I have to do anything when I run them together.
Not sure what you consider a b and c locomotive. But if they run different speeds on the same setting of the power pack on DC you will have the problem one dragging the other or pushing. The only way I can think of doing if you are going to use DC only is to regear the locomotives or/and new motor. With DCC you can reprogram the speed CV's to match the slower locomotive. Hope this helps.
If you want to consist locos and have them run together you need DCC, can't do it in DC. The only way to do it in DC without damaging the locos is have one loco with the motor/power and the other ones be dummies that the motored pulls along like rolling stock.
Depends on what you are looking for since manufacturers don't make the same things as others do at the same time. Some things you may want you will have to go with that company no matter what even if you don't like them since no one else makes it. In general, anything made in the last 20 or so years in N Scale should be good to go. I would avoid anything older than that.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
1st question, I would stay away from concrete mix as it can contain trace amounts of iron which could wreak havoc with motors. Suggestion-use tile grout instead! It spreads easier, and sets up like concrete when wet!
And it's lightweight.
Another option for "once a month" purchases...
I also am on fixed retirement income. As a way to stretch that dollar amount look for free or substitute items you can use on your layout. A scoop of sand from the beach, grind up dry leaves for ground cover in the trees, cereal boxes for roads or small structures, etc. It's surprising the number of items outside your door that is to scale and free!
Excellent point. Also there are lots of shops/stores that sell pre-owned items at discounted prices, which can be a way to go down. However, you have to be careful when buying locomotives and make sure you purchase from a reputable dealer and the locomotives have been tested.😊🇬🇧
I'm always reluctant to suggest to an adult to purchase a starter set when beginning the hobby. Traditionally these sets have low quality equipment, both mechanically and visually. They are made to meet a price point and are expected to entertain a kid for a limited number of uses.
Better, I believe, is to make strategic purchases from the used market. No matter the scale, plan to spend $100 to $150 on one good engine. Cars in Both N and HO can be purchase in the $10-15 range. I agree track should be an early purchase once you have a track plan in hand. The manufacturer doesn't matter. I model in N. If I was starting fresh, my choice would be to use Atlas flex track and Peco turnouts. The Peco turnouts are more expensive, but since they have an internal spring to hold the points in place, it save the cost of turnout machines.
I would start with a DC system for a one engine layout. Once you've decided this is your hobby, look into DCC. That won't be a one month purchase, but I think you can still get entry level equipment in the $300 range. I'm a Digi Trax owner and user. Unless your occupation is computer programming, I would look at the NCE system first. It has a less formidable learning curve than Digi Trax,
As a professional decoder installer, I prefer programming mine and my customers locos on the mainline so as I make changes, I see/hear them instantly (lighting and sound) and if I need to test, I escape programming and I don't have to move my loco back n forth between the main and programming track. As long as you don't have another locomotive with the same address, you'll have no issue programming. JMRI does make things easier as it's drop down menus vs. manual inputs of CV Values. I use a programming track if I need to read a locomotives address and see if it has a consisting address before I do factory resets. I do agree on the starter set. At least you can start running trains on the floor while you build benchwork. Good answers Jimmy! - Jason
What DCC system do you use? I can test sounds and all other things on th prog track just like if it was standing on the main. I also prefer pom for most things as then I don't have to remove equipment from the layout, but that's the only reason. I can actually use pom on my pt.
@@benbedothu I have a NCE ProCab that I've had for about 15 years. I'm sure their are newer systems out there but for a layout the size I'm building, I'm not interested in investing in a newer system with the cost I already put into mine until it goes kaput one day. I could in theory have a track assigned as a program track but wire it on the main bus line. With NCE, you have two types of programming: OPS and Paged. Paged is for a dedicated programming track that kills power but everything is programmed in a broadcast. OPS programming leaves power on but you have to specify which address your programming to.
I just scored a huge box of HO train cars and 3 locomotives plus tons of track and scenery for $60 at a thrift shop! Shop used!
I agree with you on having a budget for modeling. Had to pass on several new locomotives as the exchange rate between Canadian and American dollars is getting expensive but I did pick up some new box cars.
Construct your own buildings. Camera boxes, cereal boxes, etc, are a basis for hi-rise structures for urban scenes. Transluscent report covers in various colors make good windows for such structures and plastic zip ties make good ladders, beams and guard rail replicas, or walkways on petrol plants. Find materials outside the hobby stores if you're on a budget. The light grey cardboard on the interiors of some pasta boxes make for good concrete and roadways. Plastic drinking straws make for good support beams for highways and such if you model in N-scale. They can be painted. Good hobby shops often have used track and decent, older locomotives and cars, and have often already been retrofitted with knuckle couplers. Also, neat old, used structures, often out of production, can be found in the second-hand bins of model train stores. And, chalk is a good weathering resource for making cars look used or dingy. You don't need an airbrush.
Like the idea of how you create your videos - especially depth of field management when working with stuff coming round the mountain.
Re, addressing on the main. I have a DCC++ / JMRI setup and I've only got one loco that will accept an address change on the main. All others want to be done on the programming track. Most other changes can be done on the main.
Regarding powering multiple Arduinos: I have a 12 VDC power bus which is powered by a 2A wall wart. I just hook the Arduinos straight to the bus. The Arduino documentation says it will tolerate input voltage from 7 to 15 volts. I currently have on this system: eight Tortoise machines, seven Arduino Nanos, one SoundFX board from Adafruit, and multiple (more than 20) LEDs and 12 V light bulbs. According to my calculations, I am currently using about 0.7 amps.
I've got a dark roast mix 30/30/30 of Kauai, Gevalia and Lavazza. Different is delicious!
Auscision Models have just released an N scale NR class. It's an Australian 6 axle GE loco if you're interested.
I have a programing track but feeding that is a rotary sw. Feeding the sw. is programing from my digitrax on one lug. Power from the main on second lug. DC on the third lug. ( That's to test old engines before cconverting to DCC . So i read on programing track through sw. . Install decoder and program then sw. rotary sw. to main and test it. No handling of engine. I can keep going back and fore as needed. One other thing, the test track is mounted on a 1x2 board and hinged. When not in use I lift it off my bench and it stands ( locked in ) straight up so I can use my bench.
Thanks for putting me on the right track.
I recently installed a TCS decoder in a locomotive and discovered that CV1 - the short address - is the ONLY CV that cannot be programmed on the main.
Most decoders provide instructions on how to program the locomotive address on the main. It is usually a several step - and HIGHLY non-intuitive - process.
I just want to add to the foreign aspect, there's a French heritage railroad that I really like. It is 1m gauge and that seems difficult to get an accurate model that would correspond to what I want. It would have to be HO scale, but with some like e or m after that, I'm not sure. That makes it a bit too large for the space I've got. I've ended up picking up some 4-wheels, 2-axle German passenger cars along with a pannier tank and a Class 04 shunter to match what the 'prototype' uses, simple to get as close as I can with what I can get my hands on for something that ISN'T as much as what some of these French trains cost. With that, I'll likely have to scratch build a lot of my structures, or get photographs.
I sold Bachman trains and now years later i have decided to build a Marklin set-up as I like the German made models and they use metals for their construct. For now, AC is good but will do some dcc in the future. I guess Marklins rr's aren't too popular?
did buy a bulding on etsy, your building is well done, and when I finish hope to send you a photo,
I have bought a lot of used rolling stock and 3 refurbished locos from BLI
Every Wednesday morning on trash day, I drive 5 miles around my neighborhood and collect items on the curbside and sell it on Offer Up. I make a couple hundred dollars a month doing that to buy my trains.
Please note that British N trains can cause problems when run with US N trains due to British trains being built in a sort of compromised scale in order to solve a technological problem which should no longer exist; Japanese trains much the same as they are made to simulate (not mathematically accurate) look of Cape gauge.
All the states of the Eastern seaboard of Australia, each have their own state network gauges: Cape gauge (3'6") for Queensland; Standard for NSW; and Old Irish (5'3") for Victoria.
And then it gets complicated.
Vittoria 11.
As a modeler of Japanese railways, even with the slightly bumped up scale (1:150), they still have a smaller profile than the standard gauge Shinkansen, so there should be no trouble there.
@@atshinkansen7439 There may be, when you try to couple up the Japanese rollingstock to American stock. It's more complex than simply being 10 scales bigger.
That pesky KPH/MPH rears it's ugly head again. Ha! Enjoy the day!
@@thoughtengine My non-MU equipment mates up fine with the coupler on the Micro-Trains coupler height gauge, so I still don’t think that will be an issue. Now placing a small 2-axle freight car next to a large Amercan 60’ car might pose an issue on curves, but that would be dependent on the minimum radius used.
I’ve run my Japanese trains on my local N-Trak club’s layout with no problems other than a couple Shinkansen being rather sensitive to some of the trackwork.
Nice presentation today with lots of different questions answered. Thank you.
Hey Jimmy. Thoroughly enjoy your channel. Back in 1965-1975 I belonged to an ho club in my home town. After 45 years I would like to build my own budget layout. Need recommendations on a good DC power source and controls. Do they still make manual control switches? Thanks so much.
If going for international roads, you need the ONR power to match your boxcar! But hey, I'm biased towards ONR!
My question. What factors should you consider when choosing a track layout. I'm just starting out, and I'm to the point where I want to choose a track layout. But I can't decide. I've bought multiple books with layouts. I keep paging through them. One day I think one plan is the way I'll go, the next day it'll be a different layout.
Speaking of video, how to install a camera in front of an N scale locomotive?
I'd love to see a video on using the ZV-E10 & what lenses you use in making your videos.
I'm new and before I build my first layout I watched a ton of RUclips videos. I also built a 2x2 diorama for practice. Is there somewhere I can go to to get some professional critiques on what I've done?
Hey Jimmy, I've always wondered what you thought about 7.5 inch gauge live steam. Is it something you're ever considering getting into?
Giles Kennedy here from Crossroads OVR; great insight. My question for next month if you could, if you do a general model railroad RUclips channel; how can you help boost subscribers as you retain your evolution of the vision of the channel? I am a family and travel columnist for our local webzine, Columbus Wired and do a lot of cross promoting on both my website and theirs
I drink green mountain every single day before work. A mechanic of 5 years. Can't beat green mountain.
Turn table what do you know about them have you ever done one is it a pro or con to have a turntable could you do a video on one if you have done one to kind of help us learn or find out more about how the best way to go about doing it and what mistakes did you run into so we can avoid them
Great video i watched and subscribed. My question?, wats the best way to clean the track?
Go Aussie N!! 🎉
If you pull up your Kato Unitrack to reuse, how do you remove the caulk you used to hold it down? Is there an easy way to do it? Same for if you used hot glue to secure it.
I have my track and roadbed placed down and I’m onto the ballasting stage of my layout, but I don’t know if I should put my ground cover down first. What’s your thought on this?
(For next month q&a) What non-sound DCC Decoders do you recommend? (Ie: best overall and best budget option)
Great video brother
On Digitrax you can program in ops mode on the mainline 😜
Question: What do you think of Z gauge (i think some call it postage gauge)?
Hey Jimmy Tim here- question for you... How much detail do you think is too much. I know there is all kinds of items out there to put on layouts.
cool video
First Australian thing you need is a hidden (easter egg) kangaroo! Ha! Hello to all our Australian friends!
I’m very new to this hobby and I can’t find a answer to this question. So this might be a silly question. I’m still DC and I bought a b and c locomotives. If I put them on the track by themselves they are all drastically different speeds. Does it hurt the motors, or do I have to do anything when I run them together.
Not sure what you consider a b and c locomotive. But if they run different speeds on the same setting of the power pack on DC you will have the problem one dragging the other or pushing. The only way I can think of doing if you are going to use DC only is to regear the locomotives or/and new motor. With DCC you can reprogram the speed CV's to match the slower locomotive. Hope this helps.
If you want to consist locos and have them run together you need DCC, can't do it in DC. The only way to do it in DC without damaging the locos is have one loco with the motor/power and the other ones be dummies that the motored pulls along like rolling stock.
Excellent!!!
How do you keep your trains safe from your kids?
What are some good N Scale manufacturers for Locomotives and Rolling stock
Can't really go wrong with Kato for locomotives.
Depends on what you are looking for since manufacturers don't make the same things as others do at the same time. Some things you may want you will have to go with that company no matter what even if you don't like them since no one else makes it.
In general, anything made in the last 20 or so years in N Scale should be good to go. I would avoid anything older than that.
Cafe bustelo espresso style
So I have to pay to submit my layout photos ?
No, layout submission is totally free. Just email photos to ddrrcommunity@gmail.com
@@DIYDigitalRailroad Thanks 👍