To all the fallkniven fanboys -> If you still think that the S1 is a great knife then go ahead and buy one. I myself thought this knife was great too when I bought it, but after only a couple of weeks of use it has disappointed me. The tip broke after only 2 days of use while searching grubs in wood, the steel (a kitchen knife steel!!) chipped on wood, the handle is too small and gave me a lot of blister, the sheath broke without reason...That is why I posted this video, to simply share my experience with it. Fallkniven is a great company producing great knives (for a high price!) in general but the VG10 steel is not suitable for the outdoors imho. You can agree or disagree with me that's ok.
Yes i like the review very much, because very often you see people testing knives without really using them in a hard fashion. I'm really looking forward for your upcoming knife reviews!
A good, honest review is worth more than any amount of glitzy hype, especially when it comes to a tool upon which you may have to depend to save your life. Excellent report. Cheers.
That was an amazing analysis! I grew up around Japanese knives, all of them were very brittle, breaking tips, chipping edges, and dulled easy. When dry and maintained, they'd be razor sharp.
I am on about 8 years of hard use. Hunting, fishing and camping and haven't had a single issue that couldn't be rectified with some sharpening. Using the knife poorly doesn't make a poor knife.
I wouldn't say she is using the knife poorly; she is using the knife in a survival situation and finding out it isn't up to the task. If all you're doing is cutting fish with it, then the VG10 steel is going to work for you. You're probably not batoning wood or whacking mollusks off rocks at the ocean. You didn't really clarify what "hard use" meant.
Very well said. 👍🏼 I have had mine about the same amount of time and also had not a single issue. Use the knife in ways a knife shouldn't be used and voila.you'll get damage as seen.
@@billybatts9491 You saying Japan is a red flag for steel and then you talk about KA Bar Marine Fighting knife as a formidable tool... It says a lot that you need to study more on knives. As much as the KA Bar was a knife chosen and used by the military for a long time doesnt make it a good knife for tasks as Bushcraft. It can stab and cut and make feather sticks. And carve. But its not good for hard use. Its a hollow handle and can easily break under a lot less stress than most bushcraft personal put through their knives. If you said KA Bar BK Becker series. Then I would believe you know what you are talking about. Not that Rambo novelty piece.
News flash! Different knifes handles abuse differently. That difference may be of interest. News flash! Water can be frozen to snow or ice, getting wet when warming up again.
Carrying it and using it to cut everyday items is not using it for survival. This knife is billed as a rugged survival knife but it does not live up to the hype put out by Fallkniven. I think Lily's review is spot on based on my experience with it.
@@JohnB-dr8sk Don't really know what you mean by everyday items but it certainly was put through its paces in combat over 5 years with battoning and various tasks such as forcing metal doors of cars, opening canned food, opening stuck ammo boxes. I'm sure you have put it through the same level of testing.
I bought my S1 VG10 about 4 years ago. I litteraly chopped down trees and still in best shape. Those knives are tanks. Of course CoS may be better steel and edge retention, but I truly believe that it would not survive more than standard S1 in the hands of this cruel woman.
Laminated VG10 straight from the factory will chip no doubt. I own a Fallkniven WM1, F1, S1, A1, and A2. The secret to edge stability with VG10 is to sharpen it a few times. The edge will become just fabulous after that. I do understand that Fallkniven factory edges can be brittle, this too has been my experience. After my first Falky chipped out I just sharpened my new ones before using them and avoided the issue. In a perfect world you would not need to sharpen a brand new blade 3 times before using it. That being said I LOVE my Fallkniven knives above all others and give them a HUGE 2 thumbs up!
Go figure...you abused the knife and used it poorly...and it broke. That doesn’t mean it’s a bad knife. In a survival situation, you should know that your knife must be protected. Survival doesn’t equal abusive use.
In a survival situation, you use your tools and hard. There isn't time for knife care. A survival knife is supposed to take care of you, a bushcraft knife you take care of it and it's gonna take care of you. The price point for this knife for it to brake is ridiculous. I have 2p dollar ebay knives that can do all that and never break, so for 120 I'd like more security and knowledge its gonna work under all pressure. Batoning is bushcraft work, so weak half tang knives do itbwuthout breaking. Knifes are tools, simple tools our ancestors made from rocks and basic metals, I expect alot from a full tang knife in pay over a hundred for, to have chips and all that damage at that price point is ridiculous. No knife should be more then 50 bucks unless it's for the shelf as a collector. Tell me what a knife is used for? That isn't a craving knife , that isn't a knife used to carry for small tasks like opening boxes and mail. These knives are working blades , they are meant for being there for you over and over for whatever crosses your path, any survivalist or bushman, drops their blade, its falls, you need to start fires, sharpen sticks or other objects for spears, and baton wood, if a knife chips and starts breaking its not worth the 120. I carry a mora survival knife, it's been on my hip for years, I've dine all this and more, exceot fir a few scratches in the bkack coating , there is literally no damage. It's used to hunt, fish, camp, and work on the farm, it gets no time off, I can see it being just as good in another five years, that's 40 dollars, this is what she is talking about, if you wamt a pretty knife that your going to baby, this isn't a bad knife, I actually really like the look of it honestly, and I bet as easier tasks it's a champ, but as a main blade it wouldn't hold up, and that is her point.
Dear Lilly, I would like to see the same test with your advertised Lilly APO knife. I am pretty sure, if you do the same test to yourAPO knife the result will be 10 times worse. I guess there will be no knife at all to be presented at the end. I am not sure what the intention of such destruction videos is. You can destroy every knife, if you want. I am not payed by Fällkniven and I am not making any RUclips videos. I just wanted to understand what this nonsense is all about. Regards Vassilios
same, my F1 has been utterly flawless after a few years of use. of my dozen knives, my F1 is still my go-to, easily. I get the feeling that Lily here has been abusing the knife beyond reasonable circumstances. if you want to baton and split small logs, bring a 2lb axe
F-1 A-1 two different designs, maybe that has something to do with it? I myself have a F-1 and i have no issues whatsoever with it, but i only use it with logs/food and such.
I agree. For chopping I use the three chopping tools you listed. My hatchet is a Wetterlings. My axe is a Gransfors Bruk. My parang was hand made in Bidor Malaysia. I use my knives to cut stuff.
At 4:30 Lily said she didn't smash knife on rock, but look, the blade. I have mine for 3 years and I beat the shit out of knife and never sharpen it, just strapping and it's in best condition
L EN, The idea is that in a survival situation, you may not have the luxury of multiple tools... so people like the idea of having a knife that can do many things, in a difficult situation.
You should see what Carothers Performance can do with his treatment of 3v. Hammer thru chain with no loss of edge and only some loss of sharpness. Still cuts after
@@joshuadocter2277either have never used this knife (or it’s upgraded siblings) or you use your knives for tasks far outside for the tasks they are designed for…which it dumb. As for what it’s designed for, those chips on the forward edge were not caused by cutting wood. Even on a bad knife, those those types of chips on the forward edge make no sense. Someone who uses knifes, with different steels, should know this. Those types of chips come from extended chops on rock, steel, or whatever other material knives aren’t good at cutting through. I don’t use an axe as a filet knife or a saw as an axe and then complain that they are not suited for the job…
so glad I read this commen,t so she just misused and poorly reviewed a few knives than brought one of her own out for some cash....fallkniven upped their prices because of all these snake oil salesmen ..
Wow... that edge looked like you used that knife for processing stones... I’d say you pushed the limits of VG10, and then some. To say that it’s the fault of the steel is just ridiculous, to be fair.
@@kennethmaddox6219 He can't do that. He is one of the fanboys sitting at home dreaming about magic katanas and indestructible magic knifes for all purposes. Thick prying bars made of never rusting elven magic steel. Light like a feather, batoning like an axe and carving like cutting warm twinkies.
Brook Eggleston. I see you replying to many peoples comments but just judging a book cover. It’s seems to me that you have never gone into the woods except for a nice stroll through the park. I respect your opinion, because everyone is entitled to one. Doesn’t mean yours is intelligent.
A knife is made for cutting Also survival knifes... cutting wood won't chip vg10. And even if you beat the shit out of it and...wich is what i do with my a1 on a regular basis...you can still featherstick and carve very well, also with a few chips. Its very expensive thats true. Most fällkniven haters are just people who bought the knife and chipped it because they dont now how to properly use a cutting tool. Then they a scared and blame the manufacturer instead of using it over and over. You can't use this knife like a esee/ tops knife, but trust me once you get to know this blade, it performs amazing. I prefer it to all my esee/tops/bark river knifes. But that does NOT mean that vg10 is a great steel. I just want to say that its not the steel that gets the work done, its the person using it. And looking at that saw edge...if you do the exact same things with your Apo-1, the edge will also be fucked up...not chipped as bad but rolled and also dull as hell. Also... batoning with a stone will dull any spine.
An Esee would be worse for her because she spends so much time in salt water. But still...I know what you mean. An Esee 5 is like an axe. I'd like to see a corrosion resistant knife that can preform like an Esee 5 for what she was doing.
She beat on the knife in ways anyone with any skills wouldn't need to. The fact is she should have used the knife to create tools for the jobs she ended up using the knife for. She just seems like she's got something out for the brand. Instead she just used the knife like a child would. So yea, it got fucked up and didn't hold up well.
Thanks Lilly! You hit on all the points that I had questions about. I am a former soldier who has destroyed a lot of knives. I suspected a lot of the flaws that you identified in looking at these 'high end' knives. For what they cost, they should not have these issues. A survival knife is a tool. Those that don't have issues only use it as a knife, for which I'm sure it is fine. Thanks for taking all the time in actually using these knives like anyone might in survival situations.
I hear you Jim and agree. And thank you for your service too (Army vet here as well). One just has to search RUclips for destruction tests on all the blades that have been out for the last several decades to see what steels and what designs are the toughest. Good old AUS8, 4116, 5160, 440B, 1055 Spring Steel, 154CM, 1095, Sandvik, and of course, 3V are all proven steels if heat treated properly. But with the exception of 3V, all of the knife snobs consider these proven steels to be "beginner steel" or "garbage." Most of course never served in the military or spent time in the wilderness and don't have a clue anyway. Lily did good pulling back the curtain on these over-priced knives. Regards, John
You literally make zero sense. This is what would happen if a man reviewed a woman's purse. It is not a knife for a lady. It is a man's knife. So therefore. Never trust a woman's opinion on something.
@@mikecarr1484 that's the dumbest shit I've ever read. what you've just said is one of the most insanely idiotic things I have ever heard. At no point in your rambling, incoherent response were you even close to anything that could be considered a rational thought.
Man? She litteraly stroke the edge, perpendicular against the firesteel. Are you guys out of your minds?? Show us one steel and edge that won't get ruined from being stricken multiple times with a firesteel, the way she is doing it! Go on, we'll wait! And if you EVER need, for some reason to generate sparks on a firesteel? What ever you do, cut along the firesteel, NEVER drag and roll the edge ontop/into the firesteel like she just did. She is way too inexperienced, this one thing clearly shows that!
Two things about your review: 1-Wich handle material would hold up to be smashed against a rock? (when you picked the seafood of the rocks with the back of the handle) I don't think Wood, Micarta, bone, G10 or anything else would hold up to that. Even the handle of your SRK would give up... 2- Convex grind: Hatchets, axes, tomahwks, all these usually have a convex grind, if you take one of these with you "into the wild" and you want to sharpen them you also have to know how to. So not that different to a knife with a convex grind.
1. every harder plastic will hold up much longer, or antler, 2. this video is not about axes but knifes. For knifes I prefer flat grinds because it is easy to sharpen from a suitable stone that you find in the wild.
The point is that if the pommel of the knife projects out of the back ... proud of the scales ... it can do its job without exposing the scales to the impacts. A pointed pommel one inch long with no plastic alongside it is the ticket. Frail Kneeven needs to redesign the handle on this peacock of a knife.
1)Micarta will hold up to being hammered on an anvil (trust me...I have done it...take twenty minutes and a 5 lb sledge hammer to destroy it)...2)although the basic geometry of a convex grind on a knife and a hatchet is the same, the angles and thickness is dufferent...axes being a much more shallow angle and MUCH thicker than a knife...
@Hangassan: anvil and hammer are plain, rocks are not. I guess its more like several chisels instead of an anvil. And yes it clearly withstands longer, but it gets damaged as well.
She tests all of her knives this hard. P Her point: if you're going to start a fire, this overpriced knife is poorly designed to use with a fire steel.
@@thomallom5906 But the Cold Steel SRK is in her estimation a great knife. The SRK is one of the worst knives I've ever bought, it's just grotesquely over built, it barely functions as a knife out of the box.
Hi, To my knowledge, it seems to me that Fällkniven never sold this knife as a survival knife but as an outdoor knife (this is very different). Online stores presented it as a hunting knife. If you want a survival knife, buy a survival knife. If you choose a butter knife, don't complain that it's a bad survival knife. Get the right knife for the right use and you should have no problem.
I've used the original A1, which is solid vg10 not laminate, with zero problems for many years now. I love your vids but I think you missed the mark on this one.
@@SurvivalLilly Lilly you did not have any problems with your knife, you made problems for yourself! I could use the same way your knife and at the end it would look the same or even worse. Of course I will not do this because I will never pay 140 euros for a chinese made Cold Steel clone.
@@levkvarner9865 what is the knife that Cold Steel cloned? Are you saying that the SRK is a Fallkniven clone? 😂 You got that backwards. The founders of Fallkniven got their start in the knife business, as being Cold Steel distributors. The A1 and S1 were both developed AFTER the commercial release of the SRK.
Thats not the correct way to colect limpets, you have to pry them with the tip of the knife, when they are distracted, or else they grab harder to the rock.
I used to be a subscriber a couple of years ago. This video reminded me why I'm not anymore. Abusing any knife will destroy it. Have some respect towards the blade. I've only had good experience with my S1, but also I don't use a striker on the EDGE.
I have been using the A1 for over ten years and it has held up against all kinds of abuse. Honestly I would recommend all 3 to anyone looking for a good quality bushcraft knife. Just remember hard use and actively trying to destroy it are two different things. Pro tip: it has a convex grind so if you are not familiar you can easily destroy it when sharpening.
Dear Lilly...... I like your Videos. But why Do you take a Stone for Batoning... ???? 😨 An What Do you think, What Happened wenn you Hit on a Rock with rubber/plastic...... I have The A1 and in my opinion its indistructibel.... I use IT vor batoning ( woodstick an not with stone....) Larger Handel and more robust Tip. Easy to scharpen..... Take a flat stone an make "Kreisende" (??? circual???? ) moves over the edge. In survival Situation IT is Not impotant if IT has a konvex grind or a secondary Phase... Your opinion is that this knive is not for you. My opinion is, this knive is for every one, how use his knive for normally woodworks. Still nice Videos from you. I like Them very much. Liebe Grüße, und alles Gute. Kai✌️👍
as i explained in the video I normally dont suggest batoning with a stone. I just tried if the knife holds up and breaks or not. its just an extreme knife test to show what it can take.
You stirred up a hornet's nest, lol, but I did like the video personally. Constructive criticism is how we make things better. Fallkniven should take note of this knifes failures and try to improve it. I believe a survival knife should be able to take a lot more punishment than you gave the s1, personally I think you were kinda easy on the knife. A good knife can stand up to these kinds of punishments and more and the only way to figure out if a knife is tough or not is to test it! I think a lot of people bought the s1 thinking it was the ultimate survival knife and now they are upset that your s1 failed because that means theirs could fail, and they just don't want to accept the fact that they forked out all that dough on a knife that they now have doubts about. They may defend their purchase and refuse to accept the facts publically but on the inside, they now have doubts. DBB obviously had enough doubts and mistrust in their s1 that they felt the need to test it in response to your video. It's because of you that everybody who owns or is thinking of buying an s1 now knows its limitations. Keep up the good work!
You cant baton with stone. Word baton comes from french "le bâton". And means what it means. Rock/stone is not baton. Girl wanted to destroy the knife and she did.
Much respect to lilly and her work but feel compelled to add some points that are not addressed. First off, the S1 is designed for wet and cold weather use. The sheath is designed to allow a knife to be wet and frozen and still be able to come out of the sheath. Try that with an SRK. Second, handle is small as knife is expected to be used with winter gloves. Third, any handle material that is rubbed against rock will deteriorate. I have both SRK and S1 and S1 handle has out lasted the softer rubber of the SRK (lilly's previous knife) Fourth, I think smashing the back of the spine of the knife with a rock has comprised the ferro rod sparking ability, as my F1 and S1 spark as well as any knife I own. Fith, The blade is designed for northern european forest and frozen wood, not golden sand. VG10 does chip out, but I can't say I have ever seen a blade as badly chipped as Lills. Maybe she has lemon. I think it's fair to say, if you find yourself on a beautiful desert island in a survival situation make sure you have a bikini. ...
1. never had problem to draw my SRK in winter conditions 2. I can hold a bigger handle with gloves as well 3. I am not happy with the rubber of the SRK either, 4. nope I was using the ferro rod on the back of the blade BEFORE I batoned it with a rock, 5. you havent seen a blade like this because I have used it extensively without resharpening the blade once.
Do the sales pitches and the manufacturer says how limited this knife's usage is when they sell it to you? I never heard of a knife that's only designed for wet and cold weather. I thought a knife was a freaking knife in all weather conditions.
I'm sorry but, with gloves you prefer a bigger handle, not a thinner one. I can't feel the knife if the handle is too small. And another thing: if the handle is also short how can you grab it comfortably with your gloves on? They risk to overwhelm the handle.
@@DutchClawz You obviously didn't watch the same video I did! The blade *never* hit stone! If a knife is advertised as a *heavy duty* knife, then it is expected to put up with a great deal of punishment!
Brook Eggleston I have a heavy duty drill but i I try use it like a full set SDS drill it’s not going to live up and fail. When you’re out to destroy a blade you will end up destroying it heavy duty means it will take punishment not indestructible. For the type of knife she needs she wants something made in tool steel or even s110v but the tool steel will rust out by this ladies test and chipping is the first indication of user error on a blade! Can a blade baton through a 8 inch oak branch? Yes of course. Should it ? No that’s what a hatchet is for which every serious bushman carries and we do so because we know NO knife can take that amount of repeated abuse! I have a cold steel vg10 Pendleton Hunter, I have made emergency shelters with this blade and I use to butcher the many deers I’ve shot over the last 8 years. I sharpen it regular and look after it even after years of use and it’s fine. My problem with this video isn’t about what she has done to the knife it’s that she is blaming the design and knife type, for a survival type knife which she states numerous times this isn’t designed to be. This is a debatable to be a bushcraft blade. For what she is looking to use a knife for going off this test I would recommended S30v all steel with a paracord handle and a impact top edge Scandi grind at 20 deg each side And a blade thickness of 3-4mm spine. I’m going to make a video where I Redline my car in ever gear driving it everywhere on the redline and when the clutch / engine / gear box fail I’m going to blame the car design and manufacture I’m not even a fan of this brand but my god what a bullshit video
@@brookeggleston9314 Fallkniven never claimed it was as an indestructible knife, you clown. You can make any knife fail if you want to, even knives made out of "super steels." There's no way she was doing ordinary bushcraft chores with that knife; or if she was doing them, she did them like a maniac.
I got an f1 that I have used for the last 3 or 4 years and I have used and abused it. I have stabbed it through doors, paint cans , cut down 10” trees, thrown it into the ground. And I have never had these problems. But I agree that the sheath is pretty bad for a 200$knife
By all accounts, VG10 steel is no longer used in the production of this knife (Fallkniven S1). Additionally, it would seem that the use of VG10 is very likely being gradually phased out by Fallkniven. Going forwards, the findings in this video are rendered redundant and relegated to the dustbin of history. I wonder how chippy Otzi the iceman would have found his flint knife in comparison to a knife of VG10 steel. Consider that his survival skills were probably several magnitudes greater than any of those playing the survival game in this modern world. I dont think there were many shops and supermarkets around 5000 years ago that folk could get their survival gear from. To be honest, it is quite easy to destroy anything without giving due consideration to materials science and the properties of the materials used.
Lol.. then you haven't seen Survival Lilly's new knife testing until it breaks video. She designs awesome knives because she knows what makes an extremely good knife. Her viewers should take notes.
@@MGDownUnder Och, lol, aye indeed. I am sure that she does a little bit. Trust me though. I view things through the lens of an engineery type with a wee bitty background dating back to the late 70's as a fresh out of school teenager unleashed into a world of melting, cutting, bending, forming, shaping chunks of steel to my will. That was just the early years. Then, there is the all the rest just piled on top including a few years at Uni earning a degree in Mechanical Engineering. All of that, and I still wouldn't know my arse from my elbow compared to Lilly. Maybe.
He'd have valued his flint knife (as you should in a survival situation) and probably used it for food prep, skinning etc... He was found with a copper axe which would have taken on the tougher duties.
First rule of REAL survival: Protect your knife,and only use it for its true purpose. This is not the knifes problem,it is a user problem. You should get yourself a crowbar.
I have had the S1 for about one and a half years now and just last week I lost the tip for the third. That's when I decided to sell it. I do like the sheath - mine has not broken. I actually thought it to be the knife's strong point. However - I have had all the other issues: It does chip easily. Because of the grind and the hard steel it is really difficult to sharpen. The blade is way too thick for how narrow it is and as consequence it never feels sharp. Not even out of the box or after I had it resharpened by Fallkniven (for 30€!). The handle does feel small. So overall this knife makes a very poor value for money. If anyone thinks otherwise, mine is on offer - resharpened and polished for as little as 90€.
I find this test rather silly. The test must be "If I want to destroy my knife, I can" If you take an old medival sword and beat it up like this it will survive. If you take a samurai sword and use it the same way it will break instantly. That doesn't mean the samurai sword is poor quality. It just means they valued different properties in their sword, like edgeretention, sharpness and hardness, than they did in medival Europe where durability was king (and they used metal armors, så they needed swords that could handle that) If I take my 1000$ custom made knife and beat it up like that I would ruin it. It would serve me fine in a survival situation. If I take my 50$ Gerber Bear Gryll knife, that is in every way a cheap, poorly heattreated soft knife... It would hold up just fine. You sacrifice edgeretention and cutting ability for durability. It depends what you want. So from a knifemakers perspective it's pretty clear she just doesn't understand how metals behave and how heattreating works.
You don't get it. In a survival situation, you do what you have to do to survive. You may only have one tool, a knife, to perform various tasks. Lilly knows that, and tested the knife to show its ability. It failed, especially considering its high price.
SixShootin' Parker no, SHE failed. There’s no “survival situation” where you do things this insanely stupid. You don’t beat a knife through coconuts with rocks. I don’t even particularly care for the blade but what she’s done is asinine.
@@sixshootinparker3823 you obviously don't do anything bushcraft related because in a survival situation you look after your tools so you don't screw your knife when it could be your only tool
@@jeddy_bravo You obviously don't do any critical thinking. What's more important, your knife or your life? If you starve to death, what the fook good is your knife?
you can grab a really thick piece of steel, put a cheap edge on it, and beat the crap out of it, but you will never be able to see what a real, sharp knife can do. if you take care of your Fallkniven, it will last you a lifetime and stay sharp as well.
Hello. Trees in tropical islands are very different from the softwood pine forests in Europe. Most tropical trees are called "hardwood" for a reason. Some have higher silica content, particularly the beach species, while some exude sap that would render chainsaws useless after a short time. Anyway I think these, in addition to the sand and seawater, may have factored in to your negative review.
Watched your review of yor own knifes, did not look like you trated them as harsh as you did this. You even batoning with wood vs vood, more carfull with your own survival knifes than the "freebees" 😂
Even as a swede i agree, its a overpriced knife with super qualities on paper, something you buy more to impress then to use. I rather buy 18 Mora knifes for the same price. =) My personal knife is Finnish however, a Terävä Jääkäripuukko 110 backed up with a skrama chopper from the same maker. Best knifes i have ever used, and not very expensive.
I got both of them in carbon, I do not mind the extra care you need to take with some oil on the blade. Kind of enjoy sitting by the campfire and do maintenance in the evenings. And if i get some surface rust who cares there is always steel wool for that. =)
I was actually thinking of offering a few of my knives to Varusteleka as well, but then had to take a step back from smithing due to circumstances and thus far haven't gotten back to it. The Skrama chopper is a beast, and quite along the lines of a few that I have coming up myself :)
I love the modern skrama, but a hand forged skrama seax with about the same specs as the one from varusteleka would be awsome. Problem is that most of the hisrorical seax replicas i looked at is only half tang. (and mostly made in India)
Yeah, because a Aus8 steel would be so much better for a knive... What a joke... The chips came from the usage of the fire steel, that would happen with every steel.
i have a fallkniven f1 ( my fav ) and an s1. personally, the s1 is a little large, i prefer a knife the size of the f1 for most uses. in my experience the factory edge of fallkniven vg-10 blades can be a little brittle, i had some very slight chipping when i first got my s1, only because i let a friend really beat on a hardwood branch, chopping as hard as he could, at the wrong angles / blunt angles. I have literally beat my s1 as hard as i possibly could, through logs to split them, with a very heavy baton, with all of my strength, and it held up great. I don't think i'll ever break a fallkniven under normal or even rather extreme use, unless it was simply outright abuse. once i sharpened away the more brittle edge steel, from the heat treatment process, the underlying steel is far less brittle, and more prone to rolling than chipping under normal use. i think the primary reason you got so much extreme chipping is from batoning the knife into the ground or coconut where the edge made contact with hard bits of sand ( silica ) .. that will chip any edge, it's like batoning through sandpaper. the thermorun handle, i would tend to agree with, i would much prefer a g10 or micarta handle, but they are more expensive. the sheath, as far as retention, i'd agree, altho overall i think the sheaths that come with fallknivens are sufficient / serviceable. i would still say that my fallkniven f1 is probably my favorite bushcraft and camp blade, it has a nice 90 degree spine, does most tasks well, and is just the right size blade for bushcraft / camp chores. i did not care for the handle geometry, i ended up taping the handle, and removing the guard from my f1. but the steel and grind on my f1 is pretty great, it keeps a nice edge and is easy to sharpen in my experience. for the price i paid for my f1 ( around $100 ) several years ago, it was a good value. fallknivens will definitely be overprices if they keep raising the prices on them any further. i've done a little bit of testing the tip on my f1 and it seems sturdy enough under normal use. same with my s1. my edc blade is actually a bark river mini fox river in cpm s35vn .. that steel is superior in pretty much every way to vg10, except it takes a bit more time to sharpen. cpm s35vn will roll if abused but i have never had it chip out like vg10. i much prefer the g10 / micarta hand ground handles on bar river knives. bark river is a better value if you want a knife with handmade style epoxy scales & superior steels. but my f1 remains in my pack as my go to bushcraft and camp chore knife, so that i keep my belt knife in good shape if i need it.
You make good points about the S1 and F1. But in my experience (I've owned 3) their tips are still too weak and VG10 is a steel I'd prefer on my Spyderco, but never on a true survival blade. I think Fallkniven relied too much on the lamination to protect the blade rather than steel selection. Even back in the 1980s, VG10 was known as a great steel for pocket blades, but way too brittle for fixed blades. That's why no famous survival blades since then used it (except Fallkniven). Steels like Carbon V, 1095, O-1, 154CM, 440C (it's actually very tough), AUS8, 440B, 5160, 420HC, Sandvik, 4116, 3V, etc dominated because they were all very tough. However, I would say that if your F1 works for you and you trust it, then that is awesome. They have fantastic cutting geometry and are very attractive knives as well. I would still have mine but the chipping and tip issues were just too much.
Owned a Fallkniven S1 for many years now and I have never had any issues with it--I suck at sharpening the damn thing, but other than that it's held up great. Let me preface all this by saying that I did get a great deal on mine and would never pay retail for it, but then again, it has been a good knife as I stated above. Now, I'm not taking a rock and striking the spine or abusing it in anyway. I have several other knife brands that I currently own, and I will go with most of them before I pull out the S1, and I would never do some of the tests Lilly preformed on my other knives either--for their intended purposes I love them all. I had a special kydex sheath made for me by Gorilla Tavern and he did a fantastic job--put a survival kit on it and it's been in my car kit for years--great knife when I need it. For every person out there that bags on this knife, there is another who actually thinks it's a good (not great) knife. Just don't pay retail for it because there are much better brands/options out there. I love Lilly but respectfully disagree. Oh, everyone knows the sheath sucks. Mine has never failed, but then again I will never us it because it's damn cheap and poorly made.
To be honest I think it is not very fair to complain about the bottom of the handle being damaged, the knife has already got a steel end coming out which is what you should hit other things with, I think maybe you missed it when hitting hard things and broke the kraton handle, but if you do the same with just about any other knife, it will most likely do the same though, unless the knife handle is made of steel too... But thanks for the review any ways, I think this knife is a bit too small for the tasks you wanted to do maybe? Try the fallkniven a1.
Lilly, you need the excalibur sword to do all thing that you are doing in this video without any damage!. Is not a knife fail, is because of you. Love you anyway!!
So why do you think she's happy with OTHER knives after the same treatment, but not this one? Hmmm? Yeah no, it's the knife... She's 100% correct in the assessment of the knife as a survival tool.
The tip of the knife is broken because the edge is also broken. It looks like you have cut metal, if you want to break a knife you will break any. Don't lie and tell the whole truth the edge looks like a saw
I bought a Tops Knives BOB in 154CM and it’s done great. I got it for $130 shipped to my door. Perfect size for me. My next purchase will be a Tops CUT4.0 and a C.A.T 2.0
i have an F1 and it has not let me down at all. It's my number one i love it, used it for years i think i got it in 2010 or 11 and it has not let me down.
Thank you for the vid Lilly! I have, and have had several Fällkniven models (WM1, F1 ATS34, F1 3G, a couple A1 solid VG10) and used several others, and no one has had the problem with not working properly with fire rod - this is a first. Grüß Gott /Ulf
The Fallkniven military knives are designed for arctic conditions. Hence the plastic sheath and rubber handle (the ESEE 6 sheath of a rubber like material is that way for the same reason, but at least has better handle material and a carbon steel blade that is tough.) The Swedes also have a tradition with laminated steels, such as in the Mora knives. But yes, VG-10 is a poor choice of steel for a survival knife as it is too brittle and prone to chipping. You can chip your very expensive Japenese kitchen knives simply cutting meat off of a bone. Incidentally, the fibers in the husks of the coconuts you were opening with the knife are probably the source of the small chips, that and the nut itself has a rough sough shell. For rustproof, get something in 154-CM and you can also sharpen it readily and if not over hardened will be quite tough (a lot of knife makers want extreme edge retention and over harden their knives, meaning they are chippy and can even snap.) I burned a bit of money over the years coming up to this conclusion....
Hi, Thanks for a nice post. One small comment on the sheath: it seems Fällkniven and authorized resellers offers several sheaths options, one being a leather sheath. At least this is true for S1. I do not know for a fact, but I was under impression that S1 was initially intended for part of the Swedish armed forces (then named M1, not S1), but was NOT bought by the military. Fällkniven seems to market it more as a knife for "outdoor adventure and fishing".
Survival experts are always entertaining... I abuse my tool, it’s not a good tool. Just a crazy idea... a knife if used for cutting. An axe is used for chopping. Prepare correctly and your tools will support you better.
Thanks Miss Lilly. Great review. The old standby SCHF3N Schrade is looking better everyday. The handle is important to me, I am 6' 3" and have large farmers hands. Thanks! And hello from Oklahoma. God Bless!
You didn't need a knife, you needed a prybar for the activities you were performing. Don't blame the knife when you bring the wrong tool for the job. Literally every knife would look like it was drug behind a truck after what you did to it. I do agree with you though on that sheath. What a piece of junk.
Thank you Lilly,great to see that the so called bushcraft community is getting more critical about overpriced and hyped knives and tools. I bought about 100+ knives until now and i'm not complietly satisfied with all of them,the search continues... One of my favorites is still the Benchmade Bushcrafter, the only knife i didn't sharpend for about a year and i used it a lot!! The sheath is crap and the handle needs getting used to but now i love it!
Was the little strap at the top of the sheath clipped on when you lost the knife? If so; that is a very bad sheath but if the clip wasn’t on, you weren’t carrying it properly, so I don’t really think it’s a fault with the knife.
dont say ur APO 1 is good if ur going to trash this knife ... try using ur knife doing all these rediculous tasks ... im pretty sure ud see major edge problems!
Just recently I got the Cold Steel SRK, your reviews helped me make the decision to get it. Shortly after I saw you got this new knife, it was disappointing that you chose to get a new knife but I still love my knife. It's unfortunate your knife didn't work out, as we all know the knife is one of the most important survival tools to have.
Last year, I had a difficult time choosing between the Cold Steel SRK and the Fallkniven S1. Despite watching several dozen Knife reviews on RUclips, I could not make a decision. Survival Lilly's review of the Cold Steel SRK provided a unique perspective on knife selection and usage. Her review greatly influenced my decision to buy the Cold Steel SRK. So far, I have been very happy with the knife. But, I have to admit I was also disappointed when she switched knifes.
This is not advertised as a survival knife it's an outdoor and fishing knife Fällkniven add says = The Fallkniven S1 Forest Knife is one of the best knife ever made for outdoor adventure and fishing. and the long curved edge is ideal for skinning. The blade of the S1 is long enough for mild chopping work
That amount of edge damage is just nuts. Was that batoning driftwood that may have had sand in it? I have pounded on VG10 from another maker and never had issues like that. What a bummer! Thanks for the review and keep up the good work!
Good review, I still like my Fallkniven. The new X-series, has a new steel, is heftier, and has scales instead of a fully molded on handle. Also sheath has a lock now. That is odd that it chipped out on you though. I think Fallkniven may have had a quality control issue around the time you made this. As an example I got a DC-3 stone, and the fine side looked like they glued it on backwards. it had what looked like circular saw grooves. Heard some similar things about the leather washer handled knives. Then around 2018-2019, stopped hearing those things.
5:36 Sharpen a VG-10 edge at a rock!?...%). I own a Fällkniven A1 myself. great steel, great knife. --timber!! 7:57 I wouldn't start a fire steel with the cutting edge either. it hurts to look at. In a real survival situation you depend on your knife staying sharp every inch as best it can. Maybe you should use that rock you mentioned at 5:36 to start the fire steel :) Outdoor Fairy Tales - The Austrian Elf just kidding
Well, she did say it is bad. I guess the point was that in a survival situation, what options do you have for your survival? Would you choose to freeze if you for some reason have no effect with the ferro rod using what would be the correct part of the knife?`Then, in that context, isn't what's work the correct thing? If course it would be better if the edge is not used and I read lilly that she wanted the knife design to help her on that.
I think your idea of putting it in your car as a back up is a good idea. Bringing it back to a point and sharp will be good if you really need it. Thank you for the frank honesty.
I own a Fallniven A1 for 4 years, i baton it every 2 weeks the whole weekend processing wood,delimbing branches, ofc i dont bash on the tip,its a 5mm thick blade, why would i smack on the fine tip... because you can break every tip...the handle is holding up perfect, ofc i dont smack it on stone, i would use another stone. Convex is the EASIEST to grind if you have a clue what you are doing, its like sharpening an axe. my knife never chipped on me also, i agree only on one thing that the sheet is not the greatest, but again it works and i have no malfucntions with it
Bark River just brought out the Bravo 1 in Cru-wear, which has the toughness of 3V but even better edge holding. I really want to try one out. The Bravo 1 has become a favorite of mine in the last year.
wasatchdan - I own a number of Bark River Bravo's in CPM-3V, and just purchased a Bravo 1 LT Cru-Wear version last week. So far I'm really impressed with it. I had Bark River thin the blade and give it a full height grind, and man does it slice. The edge is holding very well and seems to be just as good as 3V, but I'll need a little more time to truly confirm this.
Hi Lilly, I purchased a Cold Steel SRK in AUS-8 after watching your review of it and haven't regretted it since. It has been my go-to knife for all my camping and wildcrafting/herbal apocathery needs. If the handle ever wears down I'll replace it with heavy weave Micarta. Do you still use yours and how would you evaluate it now after all its use and compared to other knives you have had since? Thanks again for a stand-up site and educational experience. ... Jeff
Thanks for sharing Lilly, however what the review demonstrates is what happens to the knife when it's used by: A) Someone who's unfamiliar with survival skills/has little survival knowledge B) Someone with low to moderate survival skills that's no longer able to think clearly Ray Mears and other Survival experts continually re-iterate the importance of looking after your equipment in a survival situation, especially your knife as it's so difficult to reproduce if lost/broken! The essence of survival and the path to self reliance is about conserving your resources, and using what you have at your disposal. However in the video you've taken the brute force route that'll require not only more calories, increases your chance of injury and breaking your equipment. You dont appear to have used some of the other resources at your disposal, perhaps this was intentional? Alternative ways of opening coconuts & gathering limpets: ruclips.net/video/V2WplhVQscE/видео.html & ruclips.net/video/HaR3luiS73g/видео.htmlm26s Edge retention & maintenance will always be challenging in sandy/costal environments, but smashing an edge covered in sand into a coconut with a stone might not be the most effective long term method (see above). Neither is using the lanyard hole that's surrounded by soft rubber as the socket for your bow drill. You knew that the knife didn't have a sharpened spine prior to departure right? So purchasing a knife being well aware of this fact cannot work against the knife as it's not designed to throw sparks. I really enjoy your videos, however I think the review creates false expectations on what people can expect from a knife, but more important perhaps fails to encourage people to learn the most effective ways of performing a task. As for the FK sheaths, they really are not all that good, check out Martin Swinkels though who creates amazing sheaths for that very knife!
sorry I have to disagree. I am not here to NOT test out my knife and use other tools. I want to see want the knife can take. You can only see what it takes if you USE it. I have used my coldsteel SRK for 2 years extensively and I have never had issues like that. Also the chipping didnt come from the sand only. Before I went to the tropical island I used the knife to chop bamboo and baton softwood. It was already chipped back then.
Survival Lilly I totally get that you want to test the knife to see how it works for you, it's supposed to be a survival knife after all, and what you've proved is that FK probably have quality control issues that need addressing. However it's possible to damage the edge on almost any knife/steel if you don't use good technique. Even soft wood with knots, and batoning against or across the grain can damage the edge. We don't have to agree, but I think if you used more technique and finesse then the results would have been a lot different, and that your knife/knives might get better mileage from the knives. Looking forward to seeing reviews of the other knives that you intend to test under the same conditions. Keep up the great work, really like your channel!
Alfonso De Maria it's not even remotely patronising, it's a constructive discussion regarding a test and methods that I don't necessarily agree with. I'm engaging in an adult discussion with a content creator. What critical opinion are you adding to this that leads to an open and constructive discussion?
GBE: Mostly bullshit. In a survival situation, you do what you have to do. You may only have one tool, a knife, to perform various tasks. Lilly knows that, and tested the knife to show its ability. It failed, especially considering its high price.
To all the fallkniven fanboys -> If you still think that the S1 is a great knife then go ahead and buy one. I myself thought this knife was great too when I bought it, but after only a couple of weeks of use it has disappointed me. The tip broke after only 2 days of use while searching grubs in wood, the steel (a kitchen knife steel!!) chipped on wood, the handle is too small and gave me a lot of blister, the sheath broke without reason...That is why I posted this video, to simply share my experience with it. Fallkniven is a great company producing great knives (for a high price!) in general but the VG10 steel is not suitable for the outdoors imho. You can agree or disagree with me that's ok.
FIRST REPLY
Yes i like the review very much, because very often you see people testing knives without really using them
in a hard fashion. I'm really looking forward for your upcoming knife reviews!
Hi Lilly i want ti buy a new hatchet and a sharpening stone what kind of hatcet and sharpening stone do you recommand for me?
A good, honest review is worth more than any amount of glitzy hype, especially when it comes to a tool upon which you may have to depend to save your life. Excellent report. Cheers.
That was an amazing analysis! I grew up around Japanese knives, all of them were very brittle, breaking tips, chipping edges, and dulled easy. When dry and maintained, they'd be razor sharp.
I am on about 8 years of hard use. Hunting, fishing and camping and haven't had a single issue that couldn't be rectified with some sharpening. Using the knife poorly doesn't make a poor knife.
I wouldn't say she is using the knife poorly; she is using the knife in a survival situation and finding out it isn't up to the task. If all you're doing is cutting fish with it, then the VG10 steel is going to work for you. You're probably not batoning wood or whacking mollusks off rocks at the ocean. You didn't really clarify what "hard use" meant.
Very well said. 👍🏼 I have had mine about the same amount of time and also had not a single issue. Use the knife in ways a knife shouldn't be used and voila.you'll get damage as seen.
@@stephenclarke3990 using the blade to strike fire steel and also digging grubs out of wood with the tip too 😄
@@philipmilsom9544 If whit was shit, you'd be constipated 💩
@@billybatts9491 You saying Japan is a red flag for steel and then you talk about KA Bar Marine Fighting knife as a formidable tool... It says a lot that you need to study more on knives. As much as the KA Bar was a knife chosen and used by the military for a long time doesnt make it a good knife for tasks as Bushcraft. It can stab and cut and make feather sticks. And carve. But its not good for hard use. Its a hollow handle and can easily break under a lot less stress than most bushcraft personal put through their knives. If you said KA Bar BK Becker series. Then I would believe you know what you are talking about. Not that Rambo novelty piece.
News flash! Abusing a knife ruins it. In other news, water is wet.
News flash! Different knifes handles abuse differently. That difference may be of interest.
News flash! Water can be frozen to snow or ice, getting wet when warming up again.
7:58 a part of my soul died at that moment
omg...
WHAAAAT is she doing??? It hurts so much to watch this!!
Let me use the sharp edge of my knife to scrape on a fire steel.
@@elusivellama she did clarify that it's bad for the blade and she was only using it like that because the other ways weren't working
Never give to woman car and knife!
Lilly love your channel. I have had my S1 for years. Have carried it with me in Iraq, Afghanistan and other parts of the world. Never had a problem.
Carrying it and using it to cut everyday items is not using it for survival. This knife is billed as a rugged survival knife but it does not live up to the hype put out by Fallkniven. I think Lily's review is spot on based on my experience with it.
@@JohnB-dr8sk Don't really know what you mean by everyday items but it certainly was put through its paces in combat over 5 years with battoning and various tasks such as forcing metal doors of cars, opening canned food, opening stuck ammo boxes. I'm sure you have put it through the same level of testing.
@@JohnB-dr8sk its actually marketed as a forest knife
@@maxwell2.2 this!
Respect
I bought my S1 VG10 about 4 years ago. I litteraly chopped down trees and still in best shape. Those knives are tanks. Of course CoS may be better steel and edge retention, but I truly believe that it would not survive more than standard S1 in the hands of this cruel woman.
She needs a chisel not a knife and who batons with a rock
😂
Laminated VG10 straight from the factory will chip no doubt. I own a Fallkniven WM1, F1, S1, A1, and A2. The secret to edge stability with VG10 is to sharpen it a few times. The edge will become just fabulous after that. I do understand that Fallkniven factory edges can be brittle, this too has been my experience. After my first Falky chipped out I just sharpened my new ones before using them and avoided the issue. In a perfect world you would not need to sharpen a brand new blade 3 times before using it. That being said I LOVE my Fallkniven knives above all others and give them a HUGE 2 thumbs up!
“I was only cutting wood I have never slashed a stone with it” then she scrapes the fire steel with the edge without even blinking
Go figure...you abused the knife and used it poorly...and it broke. That doesn’t mean it’s a bad knife. In a survival situation, you should know that your knife must be protected. Survival doesn’t equal abusive use.
Well said👍
I treat my 1095 marine raider bowie the same way Lilly used this knife and the fine tip on my raider bowie never breaks off.
@@Proteus3000 those things are a beast, though. But I’m with you!
She did not abuse the knife. It is just simply an overpriced garbage, and you are a hater, and that is why your reply has no value.
In a survival situation, you use your tools and hard. There isn't time for knife care. A survival knife is supposed to take care of you, a bushcraft knife you take care of it and it's gonna take care of you. The price point for this knife for it to brake is ridiculous. I have 2p dollar ebay knives that can do all that and never break, so for 120 I'd like more security and knowledge its gonna work under all pressure. Batoning is bushcraft work, so weak half tang knives do itbwuthout breaking. Knifes are tools, simple tools our ancestors made from rocks and basic metals, I expect alot from a full tang knife in pay over a hundred for, to have chips and all that damage at that price point is ridiculous. No knife should be more then 50 bucks unless it's for the shelf as a collector.
Tell me what a knife is used for? That isn't a craving knife , that isn't a knife used to carry for small tasks like opening boxes and mail. These knives are working blades , they are meant for being there for you over and over for whatever crosses your path, any survivalist or bushman, drops their blade, its falls, you need to start fires, sharpen sticks or other objects for spears, and baton wood, if a knife chips and starts breaking its not worth the 120. I carry a mora survival knife, it's been on my hip for years, I've dine all this and more, exceot fir a few scratches in the bkack coating , there is literally no damage. It's used to hunt, fish, camp, and work on the farm, it gets no time off, I can see it being just as good in another five years, that's 40 dollars, this is what she is talking about, if you wamt a pretty knife that your going to baby, this isn't a bad knife, I actually really like the look of it honestly, and I bet as easier tasks it's a champ, but as a main blade it wouldn't hold up, and that is her point.
Dear Lilly,
I would like to see the same test with your advertised Lilly APO knife. I am pretty sure, if you do the same test to yourAPO knife the result will be 10 times worse. I guess there will be no knife at all to be presented at the end. I am not sure what the intention of such destruction videos is. You can destroy every knife, if you want. I am not payed by Fällkniven and I am not making any RUclips videos. I just wanted to understand what this nonsense is all about.
Regards
Vassilios
I wonder if she purposely sabotaged this review in order to sell her knife?
She said vg10 is bud steel and she use aus8 made in Taiwan in her own crappy copy 😂😂😂😂
no wonder you have so many chips with the fire steel against the blade
She has her own knife she sells.
Do you see her making a video doing the same things with her knife? No.
That's the whole story.
How do you guys chip your blades. I've had my F1 for 7 years doing plenty of stuff with it. It's still in great condition :)
same, my F1 has been utterly flawless after a few years of use. of my dozen knives, my F1 is still my go-to, easily. I get the feeling that Lily here has been abusing the knife beyond reasonable circumstances. if you want to baton and split small logs, bring a 2lb axe
F-1 A-1 two different designs, maybe that has something to do with it? I myself have a F-1 and i have no issues whatsoever with it, but i only use it with logs/food and such.
I agree. For chopping I use the three chopping tools you listed. My hatchet is a Wetterlings. My axe is a Gransfors Bruk. My parang was hand made in Bidor Malaysia. I use my knives to cut stuff.
At 4:30 Lily said she didn't smash knife on rock, but look, the blade.
I have mine for 3 years and I beat the shit out of knife and never sharpen it, just strapping and it's in best condition
L EN,
The idea is that in a survival situation, you may not have the luxury of multiple tools... so people like the idea of having a knife that can do many things, in a difficult situation.
So you're saying heavy abuse will damage a knife? Good to know.
This video was so dumb!
If you don't really use your knives just say that. Lol.
@@joshuadocter2277 dude your white knighting for the stupidest shit I’ve ever seen in the bushcraft world
You should see what Carothers Performance can do with his treatment of 3v. Hammer thru chain with no loss of edge and only some loss of sharpness. Still cuts after
@@joshuadocter2277either have never used this knife (or it’s upgraded siblings) or you use your knives for tasks far outside for the tasks they are designed for…which it dumb.
As for what it’s designed for, those chips on the forward edge were not caused by cutting wood. Even on a bad knife, those those types of chips on the forward edge make no sense. Someone who uses knifes, with different steels, should know this. Those types of chips come from extended chops on rock, steel, or whatever other material knives aren’t good at cutting through.
I don’t use an axe as a filet knife or a saw as an axe and then complain that they are not suited for the job…
So far, I saw 30 seconds of this video and I already think this will be a terrible review by someone who does not know how to use a knife (0:27).
Least she posts videos unlike you hater
@@dailydoseofshorts535 well sid from ice age knows simps will defend him in the comments
The coincidence...you made your own Lily's APO-1 Survival Knife...that looks like the S1...right🤔🤔🤔...this is as legit as the S1 review you left.
so glad I read this commen,t so she just misused and poorly reviewed a few knives than brought one of her own out for some cash....fallkniven upped their prices because of all these snake oil salesmen ..
Wow... that edge looked like you used that knife for processing stones... I’d say you pushed the limits of VG10, and then some. To say that it’s the fault of the steel is just ridiculous, to be fair.
true
Then it shouldn't be advertised as a *heavy duty* bush knife!!
@@brookeggleston9314 name one knife that can go against stones and rocks for a long period of time and not have any edge problems
@@kennethmaddox6219 He can't do that. He is one of the fanboys sitting at home dreaming about magic katanas and indestructible magic knifes for all purposes. Thick prying bars made of never rusting elven magic steel. Light like a feather, batoning like an axe and carving like cutting warm twinkies.
Brook Eggleston. I see you replying to many peoples comments but just judging a book cover. It’s seems to me that you have never gone into the woods except for a nice stroll through the park. I respect your opinion, because everyone is entitled to one. Doesn’t mean yours is intelligent.
A knife is made for cutting
Also survival knifes...
cutting wood won't chip vg10.
And even if you beat the shit out of it and...wich is what i do with my a1 on a regular basis...you can still featherstick and carve very well, also with a few chips.
Its very expensive thats true.
Most fällkniven haters are just people who bought the knife and chipped it because they dont now how to properly use a cutting tool.
Then they a scared and blame the manufacturer instead of using it over and over.
You can't use this knife like a esee/ tops knife, but trust me once you get to know this blade, it performs amazing.
I prefer it to all my esee/tops/bark river knifes.
But that does NOT mean that vg10 is a great steel. I just want to say that its not the steel that gets the work done, its the person using it.
And looking at that saw edge...if you do the exact same things with your Apo-1, the edge will also be fucked up...not chipped as bad but rolled and also dull as hell.
Also... batoning with a stone will dull any spine.
An Esee would be worse for her because she spends so much time in salt water. But still...I know what you mean. An Esee 5 is like an axe. I'd like to see a corrosion resistant knife that can preform like an Esee 5 for what she was doing.
"I gave it my best to destroy this knife. After a month of hard work I have managed to chip the edge, so it must be a poor knife..."
When you can’t even survive using an S1… It’s time to take survival out of your name.
She beat on the knife in ways anyone with any skills wouldn't need to. The fact is she should have used the knife to create tools for the jobs she ended up using the knife for. She just seems like she's got something out for the brand. Instead she just used the knife like a child would. So yea, it got fucked up and didn't hold up well.
Thanks Lilly! You hit on all the points that I had questions about. I am a former soldier who has destroyed a lot of knives. I suspected a lot of the flaws that you identified in looking at these 'high end' knives. For what they cost, they should not have these issues. A survival knife is a tool. Those that don't have issues only use it as a knife, for which I'm sure it is fine. Thanks for taking all the time in actually using these knives like anyone might in survival situations.
I hear you Jim and agree. And thank you for your service too (Army vet here as well). One just has to search RUclips for destruction tests on all the blades that have been out for the last several decades to see what steels and what designs are the toughest. Good old AUS8, 4116, 5160, 440B, 1055 Spring Steel, 154CM, 1095, Sandvik, and of course, 3V are all proven steels if heat treated properly. But with the exception of 3V, all of the knife snobs consider these proven steels to be "beginner steel" or "garbage." Most of course never served in the military or spent time in the wilderness and don't have a clue anyway. Lily did good pulling back the curtain on these over-priced knives. Regards, John
You literally make zero sense. This is what would happen if a man reviewed a woman's purse. It is not a knife for a lady. It is a man's knife. So therefore. Never trust a woman's opinion on something.
@@mikecarr1484 that's the dumbest shit I've ever read. what you've just said is one of the most insanely idiotic things I have ever heard. At no point in your rambling, incoherent response were you even close to anything that could be considered a rational thought.
@mikecarr1484 this woman put the knife through more abuse than most men. I'm normally not a fa. Of whining women
Lily is telling you the truth.
Man?
She litteraly stroke the edge, perpendicular against the firesteel.
Are you guys out of your minds??
Show us one steel and edge that won't get ruined from being stricken multiple times with a firesteel, the way she is doing it!
Go on, we'll wait!
And if you EVER need, for some reason to generate sparks on a firesteel?
What ever you do, cut along the firesteel, NEVER drag and roll the edge ontop/into the firesteel like she just did.
She is way too inexperienced, this one thing clearly shows that!
You really have no idea do you? Is this all about trying to sell your own product? Zero credibility imho
Two things about your review:
1-Wich handle material would hold up to be smashed against a rock? (when you picked the seafood of the rocks with the back of the handle) I don't think Wood, Micarta, bone, G10 or anything else would hold up to that. Even the handle of your SRK would give up...
2- Convex grind: Hatchets, axes, tomahwks, all these usually have a convex grind, if you take one of these with you "into the wild" and you want to sharpen them you also have to know how to. So not that different to a knife with a convex grind.
1. every harder plastic will hold up much longer, or antler, 2. this video is not about axes but knifes. For knifes I prefer flat grinds because it is easy to sharpen from a suitable stone that you find in the wild.
fair point.
The point is that if the pommel of the knife projects out of the back ... proud of the scales ... it can do its job without exposing the scales to the impacts. A pointed pommel one inch long with no plastic alongside it is the ticket. Frail Kneeven needs to redesign the handle on this peacock of a knife.
1)Micarta will hold up to being hammered on an anvil (trust me...I have done it...take twenty minutes and a 5 lb sledge hammer to destroy it)...2)although the basic geometry of a convex grind on a knife and a hatchet is the same, the angles and thickness is dufferent...axes being a much more shallow angle and MUCH thicker than a knife...
@Hangassan: anvil and hammer are plain, rocks are not. I guess its more like several chisels instead of an anvil. And yes it clearly withstands longer, but it gets damaged as well.
3:03 what on Earth have you done to that blade?😱 Have you tried to open an Armoured Vehicles with it or what?
It's the VG-10. I've personally never had a good experience with it, multiple manufacturers.
She tests all of her knives this hard. P
Her point: if you're going to start a fire, this overpriced knife is poorly designed to use with a fire steel.
@@thomallom5906 But the Cold Steel SRK is in her estimation a great knife. The SRK is one of the worst knives I've ever bought, it's just grotesquely over built, it barely functions as a knife out of the box.
@@Craigx71 Well it aint doing crap that she is doing to that knife.
Hi,
To my knowledge, it seems to me that Fällkniven never sold this knife as a survival knife but as an outdoor knife (this is very different).
Online stores presented it as a hunting knife.
If you want a survival knife, buy a survival knife. If you choose a butter knife, don't complain that it's a bad survival knife.
Get the right knife for the right use and you should have no problem.
I've used the original A1, which is solid vg10 not laminate, with zero problems for many years now. I love your vids but I think you missed the mark on this one.
so just because you didnt have any problems with your knife no it means that noone else can have any problems with the knife? common really?
@@SurvivalLilly
Lilly you did not have any problems with your knife, you made problems for yourself! I could use the same way your knife and at the end it would look the same or even worse. Of course I will not do this because I will never pay 140 euros for a chinese made Cold Steel clone.
@@levkvarner9865 got em XD
@@levkvarner9865 😆🤣
@@levkvarner9865 what is the knife that Cold Steel cloned? Are you saying that the SRK is a Fallkniven clone? 😂
You got that backwards. The founders of Fallkniven got their start in the knife business, as being Cold Steel distributors. The A1 and S1 were both developed AFTER the commercial release of the SRK.
Thats not the correct way to colect limpets, you have to pry them with the tip of the knife, when they are distracted, or else they grab harder to the rock.
I do not recommend prying them with the most sensible part of your knife.
That is why we use a €2 knife for that task here in Portugal ;)
Survival Lilly the tip of your knife was broken anyway LOL
The tip broke.
There was nothing sensible about your technique in the first place, LMAO
Had my F1 for 20 years and it is still going strong 👍🏻
She had her own knives in store.
Also expensive and less quality than fällkniven
@@N3m3sis439 yeah, she is very hypocritical, when i see her own creations... 😅
I used to be a subscriber a couple of years ago. This video reminded me why I'm not anymore. Abusing any knife will destroy it. Have some respect towards the blade. I've only had good experience with my S1, but also I don't use a striker on the EDGE.
I have been using the A1 for over ten years and it has held up against all kinds of abuse. Honestly I would recommend all 3 to anyone looking for a good quality bushcraft knife.
Just remember hard use and actively trying to destroy it are two different things.
Pro tip: it has a convex grind so if you are not familiar you can easily destroy it when sharpening.
Dear Lilly......
I like your Videos.
But why Do you take a Stone for Batoning... ???? 😨
An What Do you think, What Happened wenn you Hit on a Rock with rubber/plastic......
I have The A1 and in my opinion its indistructibel.... I use IT vor batoning ( woodstick an not with stone....)
Larger Handel and more robust Tip.
Easy to scharpen..... Take a flat stone an make "Kreisende"
(??? circual???? ) moves over the edge. In survival Situation IT is Not impotant if IT has a konvex grind or a secondary Phase...
Your opinion is that this knive is not for you.
My opinion is, this knive is for every one, how use his knive for normally woodworks.
Still nice Videos from you. I like Them very much.
Liebe Grüße, und alles Gute.
Kai✌️👍
as i explained in the video I normally dont suggest batoning with a stone. I just tried if the knife holds up and breaks or not. its just an extreme knife test to show what it can take.
You stirred up a hornet's nest, lol, but I did like the video personally. Constructive criticism is how we make things better. Fallkniven should take note of this knifes failures and try to improve it. I believe a survival knife should be able to take a lot more punishment than you gave the s1, personally I think you were kinda easy on the knife. A good knife can stand up to these kinds of punishments and more and the only way to figure out if a knife is tough or not is to test it! I think a lot of people bought the s1 thinking it was the ultimate survival knife and now they are upset that your s1 failed because that means theirs could fail, and they just don't want to accept the fact that they forked out all that dough on a knife that they now have doubts about. They may defend their purchase and refuse to accept the facts publically but on the inside, they now have doubts. DBB obviously had enough doubts and mistrust in their s1 that they felt the need to test it in response to your video. It's because of you that everybody who owns or is thinking of buying an s1 now knows its limitations. Keep up the good work!
You cant baton with stone. Word baton comes from french "le bâton". And means what it means. Rock/stone is not baton. Girl wanted to destroy the knife and she did.
Much respect to lilly and her work but feel compelled to add some points that are not addressed. First off, the S1 is designed for wet and cold weather use. The sheath is designed to allow a knife to be wet and frozen and still be able to come out of the sheath. Try that with an SRK. Second, handle is small as knife is expected to be used with winter gloves. Third, any handle material that is rubbed against rock will deteriorate. I have both SRK and S1 and S1 handle has out lasted the softer rubber of the SRK (lilly's previous knife) Fourth, I think smashing the back of the spine of the knife with a rock has comprised the ferro rod sparking ability, as my F1 and S1 spark as well as any knife I own. Fith, The blade is designed for northern european forest and frozen wood, not golden sand. VG10 does chip out, but I can't say I have ever seen a blade as badly chipped as Lills. Maybe she has lemon. I think it's fair to say, if you find yourself on a beautiful desert island in a survival situation make sure you have a bikini. ...
1. never had problem to draw my SRK in winter conditions 2. I can hold a bigger handle with gloves as well 3. I am not happy with the rubber of the SRK either, 4. nope I was using the ferro rod on the back of the blade BEFORE I batoned it with a rock, 5. you havent seen a blade like this because I have used it extensively without resharpening the blade once.
Do the sales pitches and the manufacturer says how limited this knife's usage is when they sell it to you? I never heard of a knife that's only designed for wet and cold weather. I thought a knife was a freaking knife in all weather conditions.
@@PurpleSwan so u wld bring a carbon knife to go diving ?
I'm sorry but, with gloves you prefer a bigger handle, not a thinner one.
I can't feel the knife if the handle is too small. And another thing: if the handle is also short how can you grab it comfortably with your gloves on? They risk to overwhelm the handle.
@@kennethmaddox6219 yep... just wipe the blade off after.
my a1 is a really good knive it has never failed me
It's certainly the worst knife I've ever had.
I have got F1 and A1 (both Lam VG 10).
They are very good knifes. I have used these for 6 years ago.
I don't understand...
Attila Kovács Have you smashed it againsr stones or smashed it with stones? The stuff she does is completely uncalles for😂
@@DutchClawz You obviously didn't watch the same video I did! The blade *never* hit stone! If a knife is advertised as a *heavy duty* knife, then it is expected to put up with a great deal of punishment!
Brook Eggleston
I have a heavy duty drill but i I try use it like a full set SDS drill it’s not going to live up and fail. When you’re out to destroy a blade you will end up destroying it heavy duty means it will take punishment not indestructible.
For the type of knife she needs she wants something made in tool steel or even s110v but the tool steel will rust out by this ladies test and chipping is the first indication of user error on a blade!
Can a blade baton through a 8 inch oak branch? Yes of course. Should it ? No that’s what a hatchet is for which every serious bushman carries and we do so because we know NO knife can take that amount of repeated abuse!
I have a cold steel vg10 Pendleton Hunter, I have made emergency shelters with this blade and I use to butcher the many deers I’ve shot over the last 8 years. I sharpen it regular and look after it even after years of use and it’s fine.
My problem with this video isn’t about what she has done to the knife it’s that she is blaming the design and knife type, for a survival type knife which she states numerous times this isn’t designed to be. This is a debatable to be a bushcraft blade.
For what she is looking to use a knife for going off this test I would recommended
S30v all steel with a paracord handle and a impact top edge
Scandi grind at 20 deg each side
And a blade thickness of 3-4mm spine.
I’m going to make a video where I Redline my car in ever gear driving it everywhere on the redline and when the clutch / engine / gear box fail I’m going to blame the car design and manufacture
I’m not even a fan of this brand but my god what a bullshit video
@@brookeggleston9314
Fallkniven never claimed it was as an indestructible knife, you clown. You can make any knife fail if you want to, even knives made out of "super steels." There's no way she was doing ordinary bushcraft chores with that knife; or if she was doing them, she did them like a maniac.
I got an f1 that I have used for the last 3 or 4 years and I have used and abused it. I have stabbed it through doors, paint cans , cut down 10” trees, thrown it into the ground. And I have never had these problems. But I agree that the sheath is pretty bad for a 200$knife
By all accounts, VG10 steel is no longer used in the production of this knife (Fallkniven S1). Additionally, it would seem that the use of VG10 is very likely being gradually phased out by Fallkniven. Going forwards, the findings in this video are rendered redundant and relegated to the dustbin of history.
I wonder how chippy Otzi the iceman would have found his flint knife in comparison to a knife of VG10 steel. Consider that his survival skills were probably several magnitudes greater than any of those playing the survival game in this modern world. I dont think there were many shops and supermarkets around 5000 years ago that folk could get their survival gear from. To be honest, it is quite easy to destroy anything without giving due consideration to materials science and the properties of the materials used.
Ahhhh we'd get along well, lol.
Lol.. then you haven't seen Survival Lilly's new knife testing until it breaks video. She designs awesome knives because she knows what makes an extremely good knife. Her viewers should take notes.
@@MGDownUnder Och, lol, aye indeed. I am sure that she does a little bit.
Trust me though. I view things through the lens of an engineery type with a wee bitty background dating back to the late 70's as a fresh out of school teenager unleashed into a world of melting, cutting, bending, forming, shaping chunks of steel to my will.
That was just the early years.
Then, there is the all the rest just piled on top including a few years at Uni earning a degree in Mechanical Engineering.
All of that, and I still wouldn't know my arse from my elbow compared to Lilly. Maybe.
He'd have valued his flint knife (as you should in a survival situation) and probably used it for food prep, skinning etc... He was found with a copper axe which would have taken on the tougher duties.
First rule of REAL survival: Protect your knife,and only use it for its true purpose. This is not the knifes problem,it is a user problem. You should get yourself a crowbar.
I have had the S1 for about one and a half years now and just last week I lost the tip for the third. That's when I decided to sell it. I do like the sheath - mine has not broken. I actually thought it to be the knife's strong point. However - I have had all the other issues: It does chip easily. Because of the grind and the hard steel it is really difficult to sharpen. The blade is way too thick for how narrow it is and as consequence it never feels sharp. Not even out of the box or after I had it resharpened by Fallkniven (for 30€!). The handle does feel small. So overall this knife makes a very poor value for money. If anyone thinks otherwise, mine is on offer - resharpened and polished for as little as 90€.
I find this test rather silly. The test must be "If I want to destroy my knife, I can"
If you take an old medival sword and beat it up like this it will survive.
If you take a samurai sword and use it the same way it will break instantly.
That doesn't mean the samurai sword is poor quality. It just means they valued different properties in their sword, like edgeretention, sharpness and hardness, than they did in medival Europe where durability was king (and they used metal armors, så they needed swords that could handle that)
If I take my 1000$ custom made knife and beat it up like that I would ruin it. It would serve me fine in a survival situation.
If I take my 50$ Gerber Bear Gryll knife, that is in every way a cheap, poorly heattreated soft knife... It would hold up just fine.
You sacrifice edgeretention and cutting ability for durability. It depends what you want.
So from a knifemakers perspective it's pretty clear she just doesn't understand how metals behave and how heattreating works.
You don't get it. In a survival situation, you do what you have to do to survive. You may only have one tool, a knife, to perform various tasks. Lilly knows that, and tested the knife to show its ability. It failed, especially considering its high price.
SixShootin' Parker no, SHE failed. There’s no “survival situation” where you do things this insanely stupid. You don’t beat a knife through coconuts with rocks. I don’t even particularly care for the blade but what she’s done is asinine.
@@sixshootinparker3823 you obviously don't do anything bushcraft related because in a survival situation you look after your tools so you don't screw your knife when it could be your only tool
@@jeddy_bravo You obviously don't do any critical thinking. What's more important, your knife or your life? If you starve to death, what the fook good is your knife?
@@sixshootinparker3823 also opening a flipping coconut with a knife and a rock to baton it with is one of the dumbest ways to kill your knife
you can grab a really thick piece of steel, put a cheap edge on it, and beat the crap out of it, but you will never be able to see what a real, sharp knife can do. if you take care of your Fallkniven, it will last you a lifetime and stay sharp as well.
Hello. Trees in tropical islands are very different from the softwood pine forests in Europe. Most tropical trees are called "hardwood" for a reason. Some have higher silica content, particularly the beach species, while some exude sap that would render chainsaws useless after a short time. Anyway I think these, in addition to the sand and seawater, may have factored in to your negative review.
I used my hammer to cut some cardboards but it doesn’t cut. It’s a bad tool
Watched your review of yor own knifes, did not look like you trated them as harsh as you did this. You even batoning with wood vs vood, more carfull with your own survival knifes than the "freebees" 😂
Even as a swede i agree, its a overpriced knife with super qualities on paper, something you buy more to impress then to use. I rather buy 18 Mora knifes for the same price. =) My personal knife is Finnish however, a Terävä Jääkäripuukko 110 backed up with a skrama chopper from the same maker. Best knifes i have ever used, and not very expensive.
Yeah, the Varusteleka knives are quite good quality and value for money.
What Terava 110 did you get? The carbon or stainless steel 110?
I got both of them in carbon, I do not mind the extra care you need to take with some oil on the blade. Kind of enjoy sitting by the campfire and do maintenance in the evenings. And if i get some surface rust who cares there is always steel wool for that. =)
I was actually thinking of offering a few of my knives to Varusteleka as well, but then had to take a step back from smithing due to circumstances and thus far haven't gotten back to it.
The Skrama chopper is a beast, and quite along the lines of a few that I have coming up myself :)
I love the modern skrama, but a hand forged skrama seax with about the same specs as the one from varusteleka would be awsome. Problem is that most of the hisrorical seax replicas i looked at is only half tang. (and mostly made in India)
I just want to roll my eyes the entire time she was talking. She won’t be using one of my knives in a survival situation.
It is designed for use in scandinavian or european environment. So places without sand, and enough wood you could use instead od rocks..
Yeah, because a Aus8 steel would be so much better for a knive...
What a joke...
The chips came from the usage of the fire steel, that would happen with every steel.
i have a fallkniven f1 ( my fav ) and an s1. personally, the s1 is a little large, i prefer a knife the size of the f1 for most uses.
in my experience the factory edge of fallkniven vg-10 blades can be a little brittle, i had some very slight chipping when i first got my s1, only because i let a friend really beat on a hardwood branch, chopping as hard as he could, at the wrong angles / blunt angles. I have literally beat my s1 as hard as i possibly could, through logs to split them, with a very heavy baton, with all of my strength, and it held up great. I don't think i'll ever break a fallkniven under normal or even rather extreme use, unless it was simply outright abuse.
once i sharpened away the more brittle edge steel, from the heat treatment process, the underlying steel is far less brittle, and more prone to rolling than chipping under normal use.
i think the primary reason you got so much extreme chipping is from batoning the knife into the ground or coconut where the edge made contact with hard bits of sand ( silica ) .. that will chip any edge, it's like batoning through sandpaper.
the thermorun handle, i would tend to agree with, i would much prefer a g10 or micarta handle, but they are more expensive.
the sheath, as far as retention, i'd agree, altho overall i think the sheaths that come with fallknivens are sufficient / serviceable.
i would still say that my fallkniven f1 is probably my favorite bushcraft and camp blade, it has a nice 90 degree spine, does most tasks well, and is just the right size blade for bushcraft / camp chores. i did not care for the handle geometry, i ended up taping the handle, and removing the guard from my f1.
but the steel and grind on my f1 is pretty great, it keeps a nice edge and is easy to sharpen in my experience. for the price i paid for my f1 ( around $100 ) several years ago, it was a good value. fallknivens will definitely be overprices if they keep raising the prices on them any further. i've done a little bit of testing the tip on my f1 and it seems sturdy enough under normal use. same with my s1.
my edc blade is actually a bark river mini fox river in cpm s35vn .. that steel is superior in pretty much every way to vg10, except it takes a bit more time to sharpen. cpm s35vn will roll if abused but i have never had it chip out like vg10. i much prefer the g10 / micarta hand ground handles on bar river knives. bark river is a better value if you want a knife with handmade style epoxy scales & superior steels. but my f1 remains in my pack as my go to bushcraft and camp chore knife, so that i keep my belt knife in good shape if i need it.
You make good points about the S1 and F1. But in my experience (I've owned 3) their tips are still too weak and VG10 is a steel I'd prefer on my Spyderco, but never on a true survival blade.
I think Fallkniven relied too much on the lamination to protect the blade rather than steel selection. Even back in the 1980s, VG10 was known as a great steel for pocket blades, but way too brittle for fixed blades. That's why no famous survival blades since then used it (except Fallkniven).
Steels like Carbon V, 1095, O-1, 154CM, 440C (it's actually very tough), AUS8, 440B, 5160, 420HC, Sandvik, 4116, 3V, etc dominated because they were all very tough.
However, I would say that if your F1 works for you and you trust it, then that is awesome. They have fantastic cutting geometry and are very attractive knives as well. I would still have mine but the chipping and tip issues were just too much.
Great clarification!
Thank you!
You hit a coconut with it using a rock, and you smashed the rubber against a rock repetitively.... that's not even close to what a knife is meant for.
Owned a Fallkniven S1 for many years now and I have never had any issues with it--I suck at sharpening the damn thing, but other than that it's held up great. Let me preface all this by saying that I did get a great deal on mine and would never pay retail for it, but then again, it has been a good knife as I stated above. Now, I'm not taking a rock and striking the spine or abusing it in anyway. I have several other knife brands that I currently own, and I will go with most of them before I pull out the S1, and I would never do some of the tests Lilly preformed on my other knives either--for their intended purposes I love them all. I had a special kydex sheath made for me by Gorilla Tavern and he did a fantastic job--put a survival kit on it and it's been in my car kit for years--great knife when I need it. For every person out there that bags on this knife, there is another who actually thinks it's a good (not great) knife. Just don't pay retail for it because there are much better brands/options out there. I love Lilly but respectfully disagree. Oh, everyone knows the sheath sucks. Mine has never failed, but then again I will never us it because it's damn cheap and poorly made.
To be honest I think it is not very fair to complain about the bottom of the handle being damaged, the knife has already got a steel end coming out which is what you should hit other things with, I think maybe you missed it when hitting hard things and broke the kraton handle, but if you do the same with just about any other knife, it will most likely do the same though, unless the knife handle is made of steel too... But thanks for the review any ways, I think this knife is a bit too small for the tasks you wanted to do maybe? Try the fallkniven a1.
Mein S1 war mit mir in Afghanistan und Mali im Einsatz, ich habe es für alle möglichen Sachen benutzt und habe keine Probleme..
and gentlemen this is why men were carrying the swords while women were in charge of the home works.
You used this knife like a hatchet... Remember that it's drill a knife.it's made for heavy duty,but not extreme use ! It's a knife ffs.
You dont like vg10 but your knife is aus8? So confused
Lilly, you need the excalibur sword to do all thing that you are doing in this video without any damage!. Is not a knife fail, is because of you. Love you anyway!!
There is knife abuse in a survival situation and then there is plain stupidity!
So why do you think she's happy with OTHER knives after the same treatment, but not this one?
Hmmm?
Yeah no, it's the knife...
She's 100% correct in the assessment of the knife as a survival tool.
@@phillipnunya6793 yep. And even if there was the same amount of damage on a cheaper blade, in my mind, that is the winner.
@@SB-ic2kl Both are one in the same dummy.
The tip of the knife is broken because the edge is also broken. It looks like you have cut metal, if you want to break a knife you will break any. Don't lie and tell the whole truth the edge looks like a saw
I bought my S1 some 20 years ago. It's still going strong. My sheath is very different. It is much better than the standard one nowadays.
Even with vg10, that knife appears to have a crappy heat treat, wood shouldn't chip out a blade in that manner.
I dunno, the most overrated thing here is you, probably. The knife is fine.
Alternative title: "This knife is overrated because I dont know how to use a knife properly"
I bought a Tops Knives BOB in 154CM and it’s done great. I got it for $130 shipped to my door. Perfect size for me.
My next purchase will be a Tops CUT4.0 and a C.A.T 2.0
i have an F1 and it has not let me down at all. It's my number one i love it, used it for years i think i got it in 2010 or 11 and it has not let me down.
LOL you bashed a rubber Handle against stone? Like 50 times? And your disappointed it damaged the handle ?
4:47 --- whoaaa -- what did you do to get the front part of that edge that messed up? Baton straight into rock?
Coconut
Thank you for the vid Lilly!
I have, and have had several Fällkniven models (WM1, F1 ATS34, F1 3G, a couple A1 solid VG10) and used several others, and no one has had the problem with not working properly with fire rod - this is a first.
Grüß Gott
/Ulf
I am pretty sure you have treated your srk as bad but it has stood the test of time.
The Fallkniven military knives are designed for arctic conditions. Hence the plastic sheath and rubber handle (the ESEE 6 sheath of a rubber like material is that way for the same reason, but at least has better handle material and a carbon steel blade that is tough.) The Swedes also have a tradition with laminated steels, such as in the Mora knives. But yes, VG-10 is a poor choice of steel for a survival knife as it is too brittle and prone to chipping. You can chip your very expensive Japenese kitchen knives simply cutting meat off of a bone. Incidentally, the fibers in the husks of the coconuts you were opening with the knife are probably the source of the small chips, that and the nut itself has a rough sough shell. For rustproof, get something in 154-CM and you can also sharpen it readily and if not over hardened will be quite tough (a lot of knife makers want extreme edge retention and over harden their knives, meaning they are chippy and can even snap.) I burned a bit of money over the years coming up to this conclusion....
Hi,
Thanks for a nice post.
One small comment on the sheath: it seems Fällkniven and authorized resellers offers several sheaths options, one being a leather sheath. At least this is true for S1.
I do not know for a fact, but I was under impression that S1 was initially intended for part of the Swedish armed forces (then named M1, not S1), but was NOT bought by the military. Fällkniven seems to market it more as a knife for "outdoor adventure and fishing".
And that’s why they came out with the X s1
While I’m not a fan of VG10, it’s still better than the AUS8 steel in the APO 1.
Crap. VG10 is the best steel I ever used. Half those supersteels you will never sharpen and probably never even use.
S1 is so much better than your APO 1, it has to be said
A Mora Basic is better
Survival experts are always entertaining... I abuse my tool, it’s not a good tool.
Just a crazy idea... a knife if used for cutting. An axe is used for chopping. Prepare correctly and your tools will support you better.
Thanks Miss Lilly. Great review. The old standby SCHF3N Schrade is looking better everyday. The handle is important to me, I am 6' 3" and have large farmers hands. Thanks! And hello from Oklahoma. God Bless!
There is no way that knife had that many edge problems after cutting wood
it had the first chip after only one day of chopping bamboo.
Cutting, not chopping
Giuliana Schiano if it’s a Fallkniven it will...
This is from personal experience.
They are trash when it comes to actual work.
You didn't need a knife, you needed a prybar for the activities you were performing. Don't blame the knife when you bring the wrong tool for the job. Literally every knife would look like it was drug behind a truck after what you did to it.
I do agree with you though on that sheath. What a piece of junk.
Thank you Lilly,great to see that the so called bushcraft community is getting more critical about overpriced and hyped knives and tools.
I bought about 100+ knives until now and i'm not complietly satisfied with all of them,the search continues...
One of my favorites is still the Benchmade Bushcrafter, the only knife i didn't sharpend for about a year and i used it a lot!! The sheath is crap and the handle needs getting used to but now i love it!
The tip is not broken. It's been, clearly, hit multiple times on something hard. Stone or Iron.
Was the little strap at the top of the sheath clipped on when you lost the knife? If so; that is a very bad sheath but if the clip wasn’t on, you weren’t carrying it properly, so I don’t really think it’s a fault with the knife.
dont say ur APO 1 is good if ur going to trash this knife ... try using ur knife doing all these rediculous tasks ... im pretty sure ud see major edge problems!
Just recently I got the Cold Steel SRK, your reviews helped me make the decision to get it. Shortly after I saw you got this new knife, it was disappointing that you chose to get a new knife but I still love my knife. It's unfortunate your knife didn't work out, as we all know the knife is one of the most important survival tools to have.
Nothing wrong with the Cold Steel SRK. It is still my number 1 survival knife. I like to try out other knifes occassionally tough.
Survival Lilly what do you think about the cold steel srk in San Mai lll?
agreed!
Last year, I had a difficult time choosing between the Cold Steel SRK and the Fallkniven S1. Despite watching several dozen Knife reviews on RUclips, I could not make a decision. Survival Lilly's review of the Cold Steel SRK provided a unique perspective on knife selection and usage. Her review greatly influenced my decision to buy the Cold Steel SRK. So far, I have been very happy with the knife. But, I have to admit I was also disappointed when she switched knifes.
I dont know I havent tried it yet. I love mine in AUS8 A
"almost lost my knife on the beach".
I wish you would have. Maybe somebody who knows how to use a knife may have found it and put it to good use.
This is not advertised as a survival knife it's an outdoor and fishing knife Fällkniven add says = The Fallkniven S1 Forest Knife is one of the best knife ever made for outdoor adventure and fishing. and the long curved edge is ideal for skinning. The blade of the S1 is long enough for mild chopping work
Also, I’m Not Aware Of Falkniven Using VG-10 In Their Fixed Blades. They Use Laminated Cobalt Steel.
That amount of edge damage is just nuts. Was that batoning driftwood that may have had sand in it? I have pounded on VG10 from another maker and never had issues like that. What a bummer! Thanks for the review and keep up the good work!
Good review, I still like my Fallkniven. The new X-series, has a new steel, is heftier, and has scales instead of a fully molded on handle. Also sheath has a lock now. That is odd that it chipped out on you though. I think Fallkniven may have had a quality control issue around the time you made this. As an example I got a DC-3 stone, and the fine side looked like they glued it on backwards. it had what looked like circular saw grooves. Heard some similar things about the leather washer handled knives. Then around 2018-2019, stopped hearing those things.
5:36 Sharpen a VG-10 edge at a rock!?...%). I own a Fällkniven A1 myself. great steel, great knife. --timber!!
7:57 I wouldn't start a fire steel with the cutting edge either. it hurts to look at.
In a real survival situation you depend on your knife staying sharp every inch as best it can.
Maybe you should use that rock you mentioned at 5:36 to start the fire steel :)
Outdoor Fairy Tales - The Austrian Elf
just kidding
"..and I mistreated the knife.."
Thats why the blade is so messed up lol you never ever use the edge of your knife to strike a ferro rod especially vg-10 as brittle as it is
Well, she did say it is bad. I guess the point was that in a survival situation, what options do you have for your survival? Would you choose to freeze if you for some reason have no effect with the ferro rod using what would be the correct part of the knife?`Then, in that context, isn't what's work the correct thing?
If course it would be better if the edge is not used and I read lilly that she wanted the knife design to help her on that.
Never had these problems. Better buy cheaper knifes when you want to treat them like this.
exactly
Please follow up with an S1 Pro. I would also love to see a Bark River in 3V compared
I think your idea of putting it in your car as a back up is a good idea. Bringing it back to a point and sharp will be good if you really need it. Thank you for the frank honesty.
I own a Fallniven A1 for 4 years, i baton it every 2 weeks the whole weekend processing wood,delimbing branches, ofc i dont bash on the tip,its a 5mm thick blade, why would i smack on the fine tip... because you can break every tip...the handle is holding up perfect, ofc i dont smack it on stone, i would use another stone. Convex is the EASIEST to grind if you have a clue what you are doing, its like sharpening an axe. my knife never chipped on me also, i agree only on one thing that the sheet is not the greatest, but again it works and i have no malfucntions with it
Will your APO survive beating a huge rock with it's handle?
that bow socket think you knew u were making a mistake
you should try out the esee laser strike
Agree
Bark River Bravo 1 in 3V steel.Cant beat it.
Loris Buschor Or Cold Steel Masterhunter if want a knife that looks similar Fällkniven S1. Can get it in CPM-3V too.
brkt bushcrafter 2 in cpm3v maybe ;D i got the bravo 1 aswell but in a2..... would love the 1.2 in cpm3v or maybe in elmax^^
Bark River just brought out the Bravo 1 in Cru-wear, which has the toughness of 3V but even better edge holding. I really want to try one out. The Bravo 1 has become a favorite of mine in the last year.
wasatchdan - I own a number of Bark River Bravo's in CPM-3V, and just purchased a Bravo 1 LT Cru-Wear version last week. So far I'm really impressed with it. I had Bark River thin the blade and give it a full height grind, and man does it slice. The edge is holding very well and seems to be just as good as 3V, but I'll need a little more time to truly confirm this.
I enjoy your videos, and I agree that their sheaths of this type are just about the worst on the market. But you were VERY rough on this knife!
Hi Lilly, I purchased a Cold Steel SRK in AUS-8 after watching your review of it and haven't regretted it since. It has been my go-to knife for all my camping and wildcrafting/herbal apocathery needs. If the handle ever wears down I'll replace it with heavy weave Micarta. Do you still use yours and how would you evaluate it now after all its use and compared to other knives you have had since? Thanks again for a stand-up site and educational experience. ... Jeff
For outdoors tough knife..just get 5160 blade. Easy to sharpen and tough
Thanks for sharing Lilly, however what the review demonstrates is what happens to the knife when it's used by:
A) Someone who's unfamiliar with survival skills/has little survival knowledge
B) Someone with low to moderate survival skills that's no longer able to think clearly
Ray Mears and other Survival experts continually re-iterate the importance of looking after your equipment in a survival situation, especially your knife as it's so difficult to reproduce if lost/broken! The essence of survival and the path to self reliance is about conserving your resources, and using what you have at your disposal. However in the video you've taken the brute force route that'll require not only more calories, increases your chance of injury and breaking your equipment. You dont appear to have used some of the other resources at your disposal, perhaps this was intentional?
Alternative ways of opening coconuts & gathering limpets:
ruclips.net/video/V2WplhVQscE/видео.html & ruclips.net/video/HaR3luiS73g/видео.htmlm26s
Edge retention & maintenance will always be challenging in sandy/costal environments, but smashing an edge covered in sand into a coconut with a stone might not be the most effective long term method (see above). Neither is using the lanyard hole that's surrounded by soft rubber as the socket for your bow drill. You knew that the knife didn't have a sharpened spine prior to departure right? So purchasing a knife being well aware of this fact cannot work against the knife as it's not designed to throw sparks.
I really enjoy your videos, however I think the review creates false expectations on what people can expect from a knife, but more important perhaps fails to encourage people to learn the most effective ways of performing a task. As for the FK sheaths, they really are not all that good, check out Martin Swinkels though who creates amazing sheaths for that very knife!
sorry I have to disagree. I am not here to NOT test out my knife and use other tools. I want to see want the knife can take. You can only see what it takes if you USE it. I have used my coldsteel SRK for 2 years extensively and I have never had issues like that. Also the chipping didnt come from the sand only. Before I went to the tropical island I used the knife to chop bamboo and baton softwood. It was already chipped back then.
Survival Lilly I totally get that you want to test the knife to see how it works for you, it's supposed to be a survival knife after all, and what you've proved is that FK probably have quality control issues that need addressing.
However it's possible to damage the edge on almost any knife/steel if you don't use good technique. Even soft wood with knots, and batoning against or across the grain can damage the edge.
We don't have to agree, but I think if you used more technique and finesse then the results would have been a lot different, and that your knife/knives might get better mileage from the knives.
Looking forward to seeing reviews of the other knives that you intend to test under the same conditions. Keep up the great work, really like your channel!
Alfonso De Maria it's not even remotely patronising, it's a constructive discussion regarding a test and methods that I don't necessarily agree with.
I'm engaging in an adult discussion with a content creator.
What critical opinion are you adding to this that leads to an open and constructive discussion?
@@g.buckieedwards7890 I have seen blades in A2 or 1095 put through much more than Lilly put that falkniven through with little to no damage.
GBE: Mostly bullshit. In a survival situation, you do what you have to do. You may only have one tool, a knife, to perform various tasks. Lilly knows that, and tested the knife to show its ability. It failed, especially considering its high price.