The wall assembly for the home in the video is a split wall design and is a very safe wall assembly for our cold climate. The design follows the 60/40 rule with over 60% of the insulation on the exterior side of the 5/8" plywood air barrier. This keeps the plywood sheathing warm and above the dew point, reducing or eliminating the risk of condensation inside the wall cavity. There is no interior poly vapour barrier, which allows the wall assembly to dry to the interior if necessary. The demo wall in the video does not show the Tyvek WRB that was installed between the plywood and the first coarse of foam. Typically, we use Roxul Comfortboard for the exterior insulation, however EPS foam will provide a safe and cost effective wall assembly when used properly. The screws attaching the 1x4 strapping do cause a thermal bridge which reduces the wall assemblies effective r-value by approximately 10%. However, this is offset by the fact that insulation values increase with decreasing temperature (with the exception of polyiso foam).
I have a question, R52 can probably pass Passive House standard & you’re already using PH Certified materials (tapes) & PH building strategies such as taping the sheathing and the details around the windows, the only weak link in this house on the video is windows.. I’m assuming they’re not PH certified but still better than code. Why did you decide to build it to net zero & not just go all the way to Passive House?
Net Zero and Passive House building techniques should be standard building practice. There is no good reason to build a home that wastes energy month after month. Air sealing and blower door tests should be required on all new builds.
That would require governments to act in the best interests of people and the environment, instead of only in the interests of builders and utilities that want to build as cheaply as possible and continue to sell overpriced energy to consumers.
Yeah that just kills it,some how i think over time it gets louder. as u dont want to be ,i want the hear all that Good stuff! sory , dont have the words
It's impressive you can get to around net zero with only 10% extra cost. Great to see. I imagine that an extra $30k on a mortgage but having almost zero power bills would be about the same cost (or cheaper!!!) than a standard design.
So Fantastic! i have no connection to this company in Edmonton that makes super hi R value windows ,up to R26, its called Lit Zone Glass inc but i do Solar Hot Water
u have R 50 in the Walls and 100 in the ceiling but so much Glass which just kills it as u can only get R3 , so id go with less? and have u thought of any SHW?
High performance windows should give at least R8. Cheap American windows give around R3. Plus the windows they use leak less air than a typical American window.
Square footage price is relative to the area and the level of finishes. There was an 8-9% premium to build this home as Net Zero when compared to building it to code. This includes the 16.43 kW solar system, which provides enough energy for all the heating and energy usage of the home.
This property was built in southern Saskatchewan. Our temperatures do get down to -30 degrees Celsius (on some days) in the middle of winter. I will be doing a followup video shortly to discover how the property has performed over the last few months. Specifically regarding the heating and cooling of the home as we do get into +30 degree Celsius days in the summer.
@@andrewrinkremaxcrownreales8085 That is way colder than this part of the world. Today it got into the 50F range. We do get snow usually enough to make a snow ball.. LOL I somehow think getting to net zero with insulation and great windows is a lot easier here. Double pane with a couple layers of film inbetween will get me close to the u VALUE that is needed. Lots of cellulose with a bit of foam in the right places can really achieve decent air sealing. Modern ventilation and getting the exterior of the building done right with a full envelope on all sides (foundation) to keep the air change to 0.5 per hour. Allowing a place for moisture to move away and allow for the various building materials to dry . It all adds up. but my thinking is over time the savings quickly pay for the extra to do the shell correctly and make for a comfy house. I live in an area where cooling is generally a much bigger thing than heating.. That said.. think Radiant in floor that is 90% driven by solar is the way to go. Heat cooling and hot water seem to be the massive load on utilities. I am waiting to see if someone who builds appliances is going to come up with a combo unit that is a refrigerator that help drive the hot water or one that heats water and drives an ice making machine.
Tomorrow I am filming part 3 of the Net Zero Home. I should have it up to view within the next week or so. It will be interesting to see how the home has performed as the last couple days we've had 60km/h wind gusts making it feel as cold as minus 40 degrees Celsius.
@@andrewrinkremaxcrownreales8085 There are lots of ways to get to net zero have been working on my own version Thinking a few things that really dont add lots to the cost. 20 inch open truss filled with dense pack cellulose. Walk out basement/ similar in design to an earth ship, only with out the tires. Using magnesium oxide sip panels not tires. Just the mass of the earth.. Much longer earth tubes to help ventilate to the ERV. Seems like the key to every net zero home is getting air change per hour way way down. Air sure does not move easily thru almost two feet of cellulose. Firestoping is easy and helps to cut down the air flow. Am still a bit up in the air with metal roof or a living roof. I am in se Tn so the weather is in no way like yours though we do get pretty good amount of humidity. looking at perhaps 5k watts of pv power and 2 large storage tanks for water . Radiant is the only way to go
would consider wood strapping to allow for condensation to flow and dry the plywood.. so using a dimple mat with fiber like is used on basement walls is another way to accomplish this I would use mechanical fasteners as not a lot to really glue the foam to and still have a way to attach finished sheathing
Houses like this use solar heat gain as part of the overall heating strategy. So, in the northern hemisphere, you want to limit the number of windows facing north, east and west to limit uncontrolled solar gain. On the south side of the house (what Andrew refers to as "the back"), or the areas that generally have most of the communal living space, is where you want to have most of the glazing on the house. During the late spring through early fall, the sun is generally higher in the southern sky, and you want to LIMIT thermal gain. You do this through overhangs and awnings. During the late fall through early spring, when the sun is lower in the sky, it comes directly in through the windows, contributing to the amount of heat put into the home, and decreases the amount of heat that the HVAC system needs to produce.
You want most of your windows on the Southside, few on the East & West sides, and even fewer windows on the North side. The Windows on the South are specially treated to allow radiant heat from the sun in while blocking convection and conduction heat thorugh the window. All the windows are triple paned. Home orientation is key to making use of passive solar energy.
We are in climate zone 7a. The r-value for the wall depends on your goal with the home. Whether you are looking to build a high-performace, net zero or Passive House. For climate zone 5, I would consider an R-35 to R-40 wall to be high performance. To achieve this you could use a 2x4 wall with 6" of exterior insulation to get you close to R-40. By reducing the insulation on the inside of the air barrier the assembly is less likely to have moisture issues at cold temperatures.
@@pillerputzconstruction1934 dont think one needs nearly the exterior insulation for most zones.. a larsen wall filled with cellulose. and a 2 to 2.5 inch for the exterior to get a good thermal break. so R 15 exterior will get you r-42 Still one has to look at whole wall which is mostly destroyed by inferior windows.
trap moisture has to be on outside plywood surface, then it MUST BE gap /distance 1"/ thick , and then you can add any thickness of any insulation.Never ever stick tight styrofoam to plywood.Thats the lie!
Actually, consensus is changing on that front. There is plenty of evidence showing that eliminating air gaps from the building envelope can improve efficiency, if done right. No one is lying, they're innovating. Just because it's been done a certain way for ages doesn't mean there isn't a better way to build in efficiency. Building techniques will continue to improve, but the industry needs to embrace the innovation instead of fight it just to keep their cost low. Many customers are willing to pay a modest premium if they understand the long term savings.
Andrew Misiak air gaps have proven increase STC. Structural Insulated Panels for 60 years have been attaching foam to plywood or OSB with no air space. Research Forest Products of Madison, WI. Frank Lloyd Wright and Forest Products developed and built a frameless wall system in 1932. Those homes are still standing today. Visit sips.org or premiersips.com
The wall assembly for the home in the video is a split wall design and is a very safe wall assembly for our cold climate. The design follows the 60/40 rule with over 60% of the insulation on the exterior side of the 5/8" plywood air barrier. This keeps the plywood sheathing warm and above the dew point, reducing or eliminating the risk of condensation inside the wall cavity. There is no interior poly vapour barrier, which allows the wall assembly to dry to the interior if necessary. The demo wall in the video does not show the Tyvek WRB that was installed between the plywood and the first coarse of foam. Typically, we use Roxul Comfortboard for the exterior insulation, however EPS foam will provide a safe and cost effective wall assembly when used properly. The screws attaching the 1x4 strapping do cause a thermal bridge which reduces the wall assemblies effective r-value by approximately 10%. However, this is offset by the fact that insulation values increase with decreasing temperature (with the exception of polyiso foam).
I have a question, R52 can probably pass Passive House standard & you’re already using PH Certified materials (tapes) & PH building strategies such as taping the sheathing and the details around the windows, the only weak link in this house on the video is windows.. I’m assuming they’re not PH certified but still better than code. Why did you decide to build it to net zero & not just go all the way to Passive House?
I want to hear more from Adam. He has lots of information to share.
instead of overhangs on the south side you should have used solar panels
Net Zero and Passive House building techniques should be standard building practice.
There is no good reason to build a home that wastes energy month after month.
Air sealing and blower door tests should be required on all new builds.
That would require governments to act in the best interests of people and the environment, instead of only in the interests of builders and utilities that want to build as cheaply as possible and continue to sell overpriced energy to consumers.
@@dlg5485 Well Stated!
People should be able to build how they want
carbon fiber windows. $$$$ ?
very very interesting , but why the stupid background music ????
Would you have power to the house in times when the electric goes out? If so for how many days?
I like the idea. I would skip the music in the background for future videos.
Yeah that just kills it,some how i think over time it gets louder. as u dont want to be ,i want the hear all that Good stuff! sory , dont have the words
What european brand windows are are these tilt turns?
The windows are Aluplast Energeto 8000.
It's impressive you can get to around net zero with only 10% extra cost. Great to see. I imagine that an extra $30k on a mortgage but having almost zero power bills would be about the same cost (or cheaper!!!) than a standard design.
So Fantastic! i have no connection to this company in Edmonton that makes super hi R value windows ,up to R26, its called Lit Zone Glass inc but i do Solar Hot Water
Thanks for the great info.
u have R 50 in the Walls and 100 in the ceiling but so much Glass which just kills it as u can only get R3 , so id go with less? and have u thought of any SHW?
High performance windows should give at least R8. Cheap American windows give around R3. Plus the windows they use leak less air than a typical American window.
what is the cost per sq. ft for this construction?
Square footage price is relative to the area and the level of finishes. There was an 8-9% premium to build this home as Net Zero when compared to building it to code. This includes the 16.43 kW solar system, which provides enough energy for all the heating and energy usage of the home.
Mr.Rink do you know of a net zero home builder in the n.Jersey area?
I'm sorry I do not
sounds like you are building in North Canada where temperatures go down to 60 below and stay there for months at a time
This property was built in southern Saskatchewan. Our temperatures do get down to -30 degrees Celsius (on some days) in the middle of winter. I will be doing a followup video shortly to discover how the property has performed over the last few months. Specifically regarding the heating and cooling of the home as we do get into +30 degree Celsius days in the summer.
@@andrewrinkremaxcrownreales8085 That is way colder than this part of the world. Today it got into the 50F range. We do get snow usually enough to make a snow ball.. LOL I somehow think getting to net zero with insulation and great windows is a lot easier here. Double pane with a couple layers of film inbetween will get me close to the u VALUE that is needed. Lots of cellulose with a bit of foam in the right places can really achieve decent air sealing. Modern ventilation and getting the exterior of the building done right with a full envelope on all sides (foundation) to keep the air change to 0.5 per hour. Allowing a place for moisture to move away and allow for the various building materials to dry . It all adds up. but my thinking is over time the savings quickly pay for the extra to do the shell correctly and make for a comfy house. I live in an area where cooling is generally a much bigger thing than heating.. That said.. think Radiant in floor that is 90% driven by solar is the way to go. Heat cooling and hot water seem to be the massive load on utilities. I am waiting to see if someone who builds appliances is going to come up with a combo unit that is a refrigerator that help drive the hot water or one that heats water and drives an ice making machine.
Tomorrow I am filming part 3 of the Net Zero Home. I should have it up to view within the next week or so. It will be interesting to see how the home has performed as the last couple days we've had 60km/h wind gusts making it feel as cold as minus 40 degrees Celsius.
@@andrewrinkremaxcrownreales8085 There are lots of ways to get to net zero have been working on my own version Thinking a few things that really dont add lots to the cost. 20 inch open truss filled with dense pack cellulose. Walk out basement/ similar in design to an earth ship, only with out the tires. Using magnesium oxide sip panels not tires. Just the mass of the earth.. Much longer earth tubes to help ventilate to the ERV. Seems like the key to every net zero home is getting air change per hour way way down. Air sure does not move easily thru almost two feet of cellulose. Firestoping is easy and helps to cut down the air flow. Am still a bit up in the air with metal roof or a living roof. I am in se Tn so the weather is in no way like yours though we do get pretty good amount of humidity. looking at perhaps 5k watts of pv power and 2 large storage tanks for water . Radiant is the only way to go
I'm in SE TN, too, and planning to build soon. Have you decided yet what to do?
What you used to fasten EPS to plywood,is it glued, or it is only mecanical fix?
The Builder says they attached the first 4x8 sheet with 5" construction screws and washers. The second course was attached with the strapping.
would consider wood strapping to allow for condensation to flow and dry the plywood.. so using a dimple mat with fiber like is used on basement walls is another way to accomplish this I would use mechanical fasteners as not a lot to really glue the foam to and still have a way to attach finished sheathing
For sure.....
In cold climate, low perm on outside would trap moisture. See u-wert calculator
explain south??? what is facing south??
South facing is referring to the direction the back or rear of the home faces for maximum sun exposure to help heat the home in the winter.
Houses like this use solar heat gain as part of the overall heating strategy.
So, in the northern hemisphere, you want to limit the number of windows facing north, east and west to limit uncontrolled solar gain. On the south side of the house (what Andrew refers to as "the back"), or the areas that generally have most of the communal living space, is where you want to have most of the glazing on the house.
During the late spring through early fall, the sun is generally higher in the southern sky, and you want to LIMIT thermal gain.
You do this through overhangs and awnings.
During the late fall through early spring, when the sun is lower in the sky, it comes directly in through the windows, contributing to the amount of heat put into the home, and decreases the amount of heat that the HVAC system needs to produce.
You want most of your windows on the Southside, few on the East & West sides, and even fewer windows on the North side. The Windows on the South are specially treated to allow radiant heat from the sun in while blocking convection and conduction heat thorugh the window. All the windows are triple paned.
Home orientation is key to making use of passive solar energy.
Adam
what climate zone are you in? How much EPS insulation for climate zone 5?
We are in climate zone 7a. The r-value for the wall depends on your goal with the home. Whether you are looking to build a high-performace, net zero or Passive House. For climate zone 5, I would consider an R-35 to R-40 wall to be high performance. To achieve this you could use a 2x4 wall with 6" of exterior insulation to get you close to R-40. By reducing the insulation on the inside of the air barrier the assembly is less likely to have moisture issues at cold temperatures.
@@pillerputzconstruction1934 dont think one needs nearly the exterior insulation for most zones.. a larsen wall filled with cellulose. and a 2 to 2.5 inch for the exterior to get a good thermal break. so R 15 exterior will get you r-42 Still one has to look at whole wall which is mostly destroyed by inferior windows.
DIDN'T STIPULATE ..DOUBLE OR TRIPLE PAYNE?
If I remember correctly Adam mentioned to me off camera that they were 4 pane windows.
They are triple pane Aluplast windows.
AKshully .. AKshully .. AKSHULLY !!!
trap moisture has to be on outside plywood surface, then it MUST BE gap /distance 1"/ thick , and then you can add any thickness of any insulation.Never ever stick tight styrofoam to plywood.Thats the lie!
Actually, consensus is changing on that front. There is plenty of evidence showing that eliminating air gaps from the building envelope can improve efficiency, if done right. No one is lying, they're innovating. Just because it's been done a certain way for ages doesn't mean there isn't a better way to build in efficiency. Building techniques will continue to improve, but the industry needs to embrace the innovation instead of fight it just to keep their cost low. Many customers are willing to pay a modest premium if they understand the long term savings.
seems most builders do not do a good job of giving moisture a place to go.
Andrew Misiak
air gaps have proven increase STC. Structural Insulated Panels for 60 years have been attaching foam to plywood or OSB with no air space. Research Forest Products of Madison, WI. Frank Lloyd Wright and Forest Products developed and built a frameless wall system in 1932. Those homes are still standing today. Visit sips.org or premiersips.com
Chipmunks mice rats ants
Is it more videos from the build?