I like the simplicity of this construction, I think I could build it myself. Are there videos of people climbing at that wall? I wonder how stable it is when you do dynamic moves. Looks like only its weight prevents it from tipping over backwards (towards the wall). And could I make the construction even simpler by leaving out the „kicker“?
No video that I have and we have sence recycle the wall into other parts if the gym. It's a great wall and was born out of simplicity and speed. I never felt like it was unstable but wr did need to shim the base because our floors are wavy. If you wanted to kick the kicker to the curb it would be easier and cheaper to build. But I think the kicker adds a great touch to the usability of the wall and totally worth it.
If your wall doesn't have to be freestanding, check out this guide - www.metoliusclimbing.com/pdf/How-to-Build-a-Home-Bouldering-Wall.pdf. I used it to build my woody recently with no issues
For the fall zone, is there an affordable and safe alternative to laying out multiple crashpads? My wall will be indoors (garage) so have space to store away right next to it. Thanks for the help!
this is crazy advice, "dont use 2x4's" when framing a wall?? for a angled wall with 200lbs pulling out at any given sq. inch, the weakest point has to be the plywood or t-nut. now drill a hole very 6'' and the weakest point just got worse. a 2x4 vs 2 x12 @24'' center wall with the stress pulling on the plywood both fail the same, @24" centers the plywood will flex or holds pull out . floors support downforce and the ply distributes the stress over the stud's. A climbing wall we need to build for a pulling force. the more attachment points the stronger the pulling force so spacing is more important then size. my plan is 2x4's @12'' w/ 3 cross braces per per foot, 3/4 ply screwed @8'', 3" diameter light sheet metal plate's between the ply and t-nut ( 3 - sanded 3/4'' ply = $80) + (12- 2x4x10' = $40) + (4 - 2x6x10' = $20) + (screws, metal, bolts and disposables = $50) + ($30 for unknowns) = $220+/- . Get yourself a 10lb grab bag of escapes' factory seconds for $110. i have been planning for weeks to convert my spare room and hoping to keep it under $350 total, that's the build, painting and the holds. I have been barging shopping, I have the holds and 2x's and Im at $160 so far.
This one is probably at 9'. I have different build plans on Etsy if you want to check them out. www.etsy.com/listing/1741206514/4-climbing-wall-build-plans?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=climber+dad+build+plans&ref=sc_gallery-1-1&dd=1&plkey=0de5a6631714dfe881329f6bdb73a0ad149ae0a0%3A1741206514
Hey Climber Dad, thanks for the fantastic videos! I've been binging them all week. You mention that if you don't have enough room to make it at least 8x8, to not bother. I have enough room to make it 6 feet wide and 8 feet tall. Could I make an exception here? Cheers, David
Thats a tough one right now because gyms are closed for who knows how long. Normally I would say just build a campus board. I've built a lean-to wall that was 4' wide when I lived in a small apartment and I did enjoy it for a couple sessions, just to narrow. 6' would be better.
Just built a training board for absolutely nothing! make sure you check in your local area for any skips, tips or people getting rid of wood pieces and you'll save yourselves a fortune!
That's what I was thinking. I want to be able to move the wall in and out of garage by myself. I feel 2x8s will be too heavy and take up the little storage space I have. Hoping to start building my own version in the next couple of weeks.
@@CoryLyle I can confirm you can get away with just 2x4s for the back of an 8ft X 8ft frame. Basically just 4 sides, a 2x4 horizonal and vertical in the middle and that's it. The plywood boards add a huge amount of rigidity :)
Thanks for the feedback. I've never like the ones I've build in the past with 2x4 and I can't recommend it. But if you want to let us know want your thoughts are after a month.
I went ahead with 2x8s ... and my god this thing is heavy. i wish i would have gone with 2x6s. it took 4 of us to properly assemble ... yes, it feels very solid but i wouldn't want to be beneath it if for some reason it failed.
This video is a good introduction but lacks actual information that is helpful to people trying to build a climbing wall. By just saying " don't do this" it leave a person wondering all of the why's. I think it would help in the video if people were given facts to back an opinion (ex. I wouldn't use 2x4 because " insert fact")
Yo #1 most who are serious about building a wall are gonna know why not to use 2*4's if your trying to build a climbing wall please do waaayyyyy more research. He cant say everything in the vodeo and if you want more depth then get the build plans on his website
So with stronger hinges could you attach the wall to anchor points on the wall behind with straps and not require the legs? Trying to plan out a garage build, going to purchase your build plans but I don’t know if that is considered in them. Thanks!
What are your thoughts on shortening the side brackets for the kicker frame and main frame to allow room for a 2x6, with holes drilled throughout, to replace the use of the ratchet straps and to possibly make adjusting the angle easier? Do you think it would be pretty stable or would you recommend sticking with the ratchet straps?
I used ratchet straps in my original design because it was easy. If I wete to use a board in its place I wouldn't shorten the side brace at all, just put it in the same place the straps would be
Hi, I bought your plans and started buying some materials. The materials list implies that you use 2x6s for the top and bottom horizontal pieces on the main frame, but the vertical pieces of the frame are 2x8 - is that intentional?
Great video! I would love to see you climb on this home wall. I am building one my self and I would like to see what sort of things I could do on this home wall. Kind of like a training vid or something
Good Afternoon, I purchased the build pamphlet and it is spec'd for your re-imagining of the board. I was actually hoping to use this build for a Moonboard mini. Do you have a spec sheet by any chance for this? Or a materials list? Thank you.
Do you think the design as you have it would work at 10ft wide? This would open up more possibilities for traversing across the wall and setting some bolder problems. Thanks for all the videos.
would this be able to adjust up that the legs would be within 3 ft from the wall? I'm looking to put this in my garage, but would like to be able to put it away so I can fit a car in
No worries. This is the one a and the same. I hope to build a larger one though and use metric tnut spacing so it can be converted to a moon/tension board.
You can move it around but it's pretty heavy and only the kicker will fold in. I'm working on another design that will be roughly the same size and be able to fit in the bed of a pickup truck.
@@climberdad Thanks. I just wanted something that I can put up vertical when not in use, so that I can use it in the garage and still be able to park my car there.
What are the lower, short supports actually doing and how are they connected to the actual wall? I hope you get your website and plans ability for purchase soon. Thanks!
They support most of the weight at the lower joint. Without those you would need to anch the kicker panel to an existing wall or beams. I was really hoping to get the plans done sooner but my climbing gym has priority and we are in the middle of a remodel. It might be a while.
@@climberdad thanks so much for the reply, and I understand the priorities! Really appricate your channel be and Looking forwards to the website or Patreon. Last question if I may. If those braces are supporting the weight and are bolted at the kick plate and at the wall, how do you adjust the angle of your wall?
@@Generallyannoyed2024 Thanks! Most of the time I just left it one solid piece. If there was a large angle change I would lower the wall all the way down, loosen one side of the small braces, adjust the kicker angle and reattach the small braces. Honestly, I only did that once. The biggest reason for the hinges is to increase the ease and speed of the build.
@@ottom333 did you get the plans? It's not working for some people. Everytime I test the button, even using other account, it works so I'm not sure whats happening. I can resend the link to you if needed.
Would love it if you had an updated plan that could modularly combine 4'x8' so the parts could fit through doors and be assembled/disassembled as needed. Aside from that, thanks for sharing your plans at such a low price!
Followup question, at 2:04 I see huge wood supports, would it make sense to replace those with Slotted Angle bars? Say, if I had two 4'x8' plywood walls with slotted angle bars at each side, then I connect the two with nuts & bolts? I'm a non-carpenter non-builder so pardon my ignorance. Thanks in advance!
Stud spacing is one of the "newer things" that I would change. I would go with 32" spacing. If you only had a 8' tall main frame you could build 2 4x8 panels and bolt them together. You would also need to bolt on a brace to make it rigid.
You said that home wall of this size will quickly become boring to climb. I plan to do a similar size home chaos wall with led system to light up route - based on moon/tension/kilterboard apps. What do You think, will led system help to solve the 'boring' problem of such smaller home walls?
Most holds are from the escape starter pack. The base does need something to help it stay in place. Pushed up against the wall or attached to the ground.
Hey Climber Dad Ive looked at tons of videos and woody instructionals. Yours is hands down the best. Ive only been climbing a year and half, so sorry if these are dumb questions... It sounds like 20 cm lets me make both a systems board, kilter board, and a spray wall. Am i just measuring my beginning 20 cm from the starting edge of the board? Or would i half it like you did with 3 inch than 6 inch. Whats the difference between a spray wall and a systems board/ kilter? Adam Ondra said he got strong on the spray wall in one of his recent videos. Thats what im looking to build. Thanks for putting out awesome content!
Thanks. I'll do my best to answer your questions. A system board is a climbing wall full of holds that don't move around. It's purpose is to work through, train movements or "systems of movements". Spray wall, kilter board, moon board, tension board are all system boards. If your goal is to build a spray wall I would just keep the 6" grid pattern. I've found it to be kinda tricky mixing standard and metric sizes. If you do want to go with a 20cm start 20cm from the left edge and 4cm from the bottom edge and continue the 20cm spacing all the way up. You need to drill each panel by itself.
@@climberdad thanks! Are the big long 2x6 pieces of wood attached to the pulley system able to lower or higher the board when i lengthen the straps? Just want to not break it
How did you decide on your angle for the wall? I'm planning on building a woody and I've been climbing since last sep 3-4 a week. Don't want to set my angle too steep and not be able to do anything on it
Save you some time.
With holds its just shy of $1,000.
Without holds its around $350, depending on your area.
Great video.
The metric system makes sense.
6:00 Maybe it is time for the US, Myamar an Liberia to finally use the metric units like the rest of the world. :)
The rest of the world doesn't buddy.
Thank you so much for sharing these videos with us. I'm no carpenter so this is very helpful information.
great videos. you've really helped me put my board together during lockdown.
I like the simplicity of this construction, I think I could build it myself.
Are there videos of people climbing at that wall?
I wonder how stable it is when you do dynamic moves. Looks like only its weight prevents it from tipping over backwards (towards the wall).
And could I make the construction even simpler by leaving out the „kicker“?
No video that I have and we have sence recycle the wall into other parts if the gym. It's a great wall and was born out of simplicity and speed. I never felt like it was unstable but wr did need to shim the base because our floors are wavy.
If you wanted to kick the kicker to the curb it would be easier and cheaper to build. But I think the kicker adds a great touch to the usability of the wall and totally worth it.
Looking to buy plans for this ASAP stuck at home all day has left us looking to build
I'll step it up.
I want to buy them too!
If your wall doesn't have to be freestanding, check out this guide - www.metoliusclimbing.com/pdf/How-to-Build-a-Home-Bouldering-Wall.pdf. I used it to build my woody recently with no issues
@@climberdad Hey Sam, Vegas is great but Red Rock and the gyms are closed! Eagerly awaiting an update! Thanks, hope you're well.
For the fall zone, is there an affordable and safe alternative to laying out multiple crashpads? My wall will be indoors (garage) so have space to store away right next to it. Thanks for the help!
The cheapest way to go is old mattresses, try to find ones that don't have metal springs.
Thank you dude!
Have you thought about making your own holds? Would save a ton of money and it's not too difficulty if u have the tools for it.
Yep :) ruclips.net/video/c8EE0_OJArU/видео.html
@@climberdad awesome!
What is the "top lip of the wall"? 6:03.
Just the frame on this one, kinda sloper like. The last one I built "Best Home Climbing Wall" had a small lip at the top.
what is the angle that shoule be between the wall and the support beams ?
this is crazy advice, "dont use 2x4's" when framing a wall?? for a angled wall with 200lbs pulling out at any given sq. inch, the weakest point has to be the plywood or t-nut. now drill a hole very 6'' and the weakest point just got worse. a 2x4 vs 2 x12 @24'' center wall with the stress pulling on the plywood both fail the same, @24" centers the plywood will flex or holds pull out . floors support downforce and the ply distributes the stress over the stud's. A climbing wall we need to build for a pulling force. the more attachment points the stronger the pulling force so spacing is more important then size. my plan is 2x4's @12'' w/ 3 cross braces per per foot, 3/4 ply screwed @8'', 3" diameter light sheet metal plate's between the ply and t-nut ( 3 - sanded 3/4'' ply = $80) + (12- 2x4x10' = $40) + (4 - 2x6x10' = $20) + (screws, metal, bolts and disposables = $50) + ($30 for unknowns) = $220+/- . Get yourself a 10lb grab bag of escapes' factory seconds for $110. i have been planning for weeks to convert my spare room and hoping to keep it under $350 total, that's the build, painting and the holds. I have been barging shopping, I have the holds and 2x's and Im at $160 so far.
What is this and where to buy by name tdying to find one
www.etsy.com/listing/1326857382/1-day-build-climbing-wall-self?click_key=e6a2e3407d8dfcc262aa83a9b33bd5635c09a4c7%3A1326857382&click_sum=3110de01&ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=climbing+wall+build+plans&ref=sr_gallery-1-1&organic_search_click=1&bes=1&styled=1
Your link to get the plans fail with paypal. Sadness
So sorry. I need to get that fixed. Shoot me an email at theclimberdad@gmail.com
qual altura da prancha?
This one is probably at 9'. I have different build plans on Etsy if you want to check them out.
www.etsy.com/listing/1741206514/4-climbing-wall-build-plans?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=climber+dad+build+plans&ref=sc_gallery-1-1&dd=1&plkey=0de5a6631714dfe881329f6bdb73a0ad149ae0a0%3A1741206514
1:55 16 foot kicker lol bigger than the board lol.
Haha, that got away from me. Thought I corrected it to 16 inches.
Hey Climber Dad, thanks for the fantastic videos! I've been binging them all week. You mention that if you don't have enough room to make it at least 8x8, to not bother. I have enough room to make it 6 feet wide and 8 feet tall. Could I make an exception here? Cheers, David
Thats a tough one right now because gyms are closed for who knows how long. Normally I would say just build a campus board.
I've built a lean-to wall that was 4' wide when I lived in a small apartment and I did enjoy it for a couple sessions, just to narrow. 6' would be better.
@@climberdad 4x8 sounds insanely small. Do you have pictures of it? I'm trying to wrap my head around how you could set a problem on that.
@@TheJunkieBox I would have to dig through boxes of picture, this was before the digital camera was a thing :)
Super cramped.
What should the size of the landing zone be?
Planning on doing a future video on flooring. Stay posted :)
Climber Dad Looking forward, cheers!
What is the angle of the wall in the video?
I think it was a 30 degree.
Just built a training board for absolutely nothing! make sure you check in your local area for any skips, tips or people getting rid of wood pieces and you'll save yourselves a fortune!
Is the angle of the wall adjustable?
Not easily, but yes. I changed the angle only a couple times during its first year of existence.
I'm not convinced you need 2x8s... I'll see if my crappy 2x4 board holds up!
That's what I was thinking. I want to be able to move the wall in and out of garage by myself. I feel 2x8s will be too heavy and take up the little storage space I have. Hoping to start building my own version in the next couple of weeks.
@@CoryLyle I can confirm you can get away with just 2x4s for the back of an 8ft X 8ft frame. Basically just 4 sides, a 2x4 horizonal and vertical in the middle and that's it. The plywood boards add a huge amount of rigidity :)
Thanks for the feedback. I've never like the ones I've build in the past with 2x4 and I can't recommend it. But if you want to let us know want your thoughts are after a month.
Yea I agree, made one yesterday out of 2 x4s and it's bomber. 12 x 12 ft climbing face at 45 deg
I went ahead with 2x8s ... and my god this thing is heavy. i wish i would have gone with 2x6s. it took 4 of us to properly assemble ... yes, it feels very solid but i wouldn't want to be beneath it if for some reason it failed.
what happend to the building plans?
Climberdad.com/plans
@@climberdad the link in the description is 404
so they cost money now?
Just a couple bucks to help support the channel. The plans took me longer to make than the actual wall.
@@climberdad ok
The holds seems ridiculously expensive
They are... until you realize what it takes to make them. You can get cheaper holds but you get what you pay for with climbing holds.
@@climberdad Thanks
About $300 in materials
This video is a good introduction but lacks actual information that is helpful to people trying to build a climbing wall. By just saying " don't do this" it leave a person wondering all of the why's. I think it would help in the video if people were given facts to back an opinion (ex. I wouldn't use 2x4 because " insert fact")
Yo #1 most who are serious about building a wall are gonna know why not to use 2*4's if your trying to build a climbing wall please do waaayyyyy more research. He cant say everything in the vodeo and if you want more depth then get the build plans on his website
what changes would you make to make it a fixed board
Loose the hinges, solidly attach the kicker to the floor and wall. Run support bracing behind the wall.
So with stronger hinges could you attach the wall to anchor points on the wall behind with straps and not require the legs? Trying to plan out a garage build, going to purchase your build plans but I don’t know if that is considered in them. Thanks!
Bigger hinges and use a winch to raise and lower it. Probably be a good idea to use safety chains while in use too.
What are your thoughts on shortening the side brackets for the kicker frame and main frame to allow room for a 2x6, with holes drilled throughout, to replace the use of the ratchet straps and to possibly make adjusting the angle easier? Do you think it would be pretty stable or would you recommend sticking with the ratchet straps?
I used ratchet straps in my original design because it was easy. If I wete to use a board in its place I wouldn't shorten the side brace at all, just put it in the same place the straps would be
Hi, I bought your plans and started buying some materials. The materials list implies that you use 2x6s for the top and bottom horizontal pieces on the main frame, but the vertical pieces of the frame are 2x8 - is that intentional?
2x6s for the kicker, 2x8s for the main frame.
Great video! I would love to see you climb on this home wall. I am building one my self and I would like to see what sort of things I could do on this home wall. Kind of like a training vid or something
It has been recycled into other parts of the gym after about 1 year of use.
@climber dad hello I am trying desperately to find a video that has an adjustable angle wall, I know you had one but I can't find it! Thanks
Which angle did you settle at, and did you experience any instability when making it steeper (45degree)
It was last set at about a 35 degree angle. As long as I have the base against something solid the wall is solid :)
Building a wall this weekend from your Plan
Good Afternoon, I purchased the build pamphlet and it is spec'd for your re-imagining of the board. I was actually hoping to use this build for a Moonboard mini. Do you have a spec sheet by any chance for this? Or a materials list? Thank you.
No, but you can use the build plans as a starting point to design a moonboard.
Do you think the design as you have it would work at 10ft wide? This would open up more possibilities for traversing across the wall and setting some bolder problems. Thanks for all the videos.
Maybe beef up the supports but yes.
would this be able to adjust up that the legs would be within 3 ft from the wall? I'm looking to put this in my garage, but would like to be able to put it away so I can fit a car in
I think your best option would be to modify this design to be more of a permanent structure with the support coming from the back side.
Nice vid man! Thanks for sharing your findings!
Any idea what kind of plywood / treatment would you use for a backyard wall? something that stands up to some rain...
They do make an outdoor plywood that would be better. Also use an exteriir paint and I would cover the back to keep it a little more protected.
Sorry to comment on another video asking the same question is this the same dimensions as the other diy wall you built
No worries. This is the one a and the same. I hope to build a larger one though and use metric tnut spacing so it can be converted to a moon/tension board.
Does this construction allow the climbing wall to be folded or does it have to be permanent?
You can move it around but it's pretty heavy and only the kicker will fold in. I'm working on another design that will be roughly the same size and be able to fit in the bed of a pickup truck.
@@climberdad Thanks. I just wanted something that I can put up vertical when not in use, so that I can use it in the garage and still be able to park my car there.
👍👍👍
How far out do you suggest the legs stick out from the top of the wall? 2ft? 3ft?
Designing a wall can have a lot of factors that come into play. Weight, frame, purpose, supports...
@@climberdad I was wondering in reference to your design for the wall in the video. Sorry I should have been more clear!
What are the lower, short supports actually doing and how are they connected to the actual wall?
I hope you get your website and plans ability for purchase soon. Thanks!
They support most of the weight at the lower joint. Without those you would need to anch the kicker panel to an existing wall or beams.
I was really hoping to get the plans done sooner but my climbing gym has priority and we are in the middle of a remodel. It might be a while.
@@climberdad thanks so much for the reply, and I understand the priorities!
Really appricate your channel be and Looking forwards to the website or Patreon.
Last question if I may. If those braces are supporting the weight and are bolted at the kick plate and at the wall, how do you adjust the angle of your wall?
@@Generallyannoyed2024 Thanks!
Most of the time I just left it one solid piece. If there was a large angle change I would lower the wall all the way down, loosen one side of the small braces, adjust the kicker angle and reattach the small braces. Honestly, I only did that once. The biggest reason for the hinges is to increase the ease and speed of the build.
My husband is willing to build this for my moon board but he says he needs plans. Do you have plans for this?
Not yet. As soon as its done it will be up on climberdad.com
@@climberdad damn i sent u a buck thinking it was for plans T_T haha
@@ottom333 did you get the plans? It's not working for some people. Everytime I test the button, even using other account, it works so I'm not sure whats happening. I can resend the link to you if needed.
@@climberdad oh its available? No I didn't receive it if you could resend it to my email! Awesome
send your reciept to theclimberdad@gmail.com
Would love it if you had an updated plan that could modularly combine 4'x8' so the parts could fit through doors and be assembled/disassembled as needed. Aside from that, thanks for sharing your plans at such a low price!
Followup question, at 2:04 I see huge wood supports, would it make sense to replace those with Slotted Angle bars? Say, if I had two 4'x8' plywood walls with slotted angle bars at each side, then I connect the two with nuts & bolts? I'm a non-carpenter non-builder so pardon my ignorance. Thanks in advance!
Stud spacing is one of the "newer things" that I would change. I would go with 32" spacing. If you only had a 8' tall main frame you could build 2 4x8 panels and bolt them together. You would also need to bolt on a brace to make it rigid.
You said that home wall of this size will quickly become boring to climb. I plan to do a similar size home chaos wall with led system to light up route - based on moon/tension/kilterboard apps.
What do You think, will led system help to solve the 'boring' problem of such smaller home walls?
Good question. I thinks it's more about the ability to add variety. Not sure LEDs would help that. Might help though.
would this work as a free standing setup? or does the wall it is against add stability? Is that the escape starter pack x2 with escape footholds?
Most holds are from the escape starter pack.
The base does need something to help it stay in place. Pushed up against the wall or attached to the ground.
can you link to the podcast with Kris Hampton please?
It is no longer on their website so you'll need to find it on your pod casting app. It was early October 2019.
Hey Climber Dad Ive looked at tons of videos and woody instructionals. Yours is hands down the best. Ive only been climbing a year and half, so sorry if these are dumb questions...
It sounds like 20 cm lets me make both a systems board, kilter board, and a spray wall. Am i just measuring my beginning 20 cm from the starting edge of the board? Or would i half it like you did with 3 inch than 6 inch.
Whats the difference between a spray wall and a systems board/ kilter? Adam Ondra said he got strong on the spray wall in one of his recent videos. Thats what im looking to build.
Thanks for putting out awesome content!
Thanks. I'll do my best to answer your questions.
A system board is a climbing wall full of holds that don't move around. It's purpose is to work through, train movements or "systems of movements". Spray wall, kilter board, moon board, tension board are all system boards.
If your goal is to build a spray wall I would just keep the 6" grid pattern. I've found it to be kinda tricky mixing standard and metric sizes.
If you do want to go with a 20cm start 20cm from the left edge and 4cm from the bottom edge and continue the 20cm spacing all the way up. You need to drill each panel by itself.
@@climberdad thanks! Are the big long 2x6 pieces of wood attached to the pulley system able to lower or higher the board when i lengthen the straps? Just want to not break it
How did you decide on your angle for the wall? I'm planning on building a woody and I've been climbing since last sep 3-4 a week. Don't want to set my angle too steep and not be able to do anything on it
Thats a tough one to narrow down. I would go somewhere between 20 and 45 degrees. Space, height, ability and climbing preferences all play into that.
@@climberdadnow, is that 20-45 measuring from the ground or from the back wall?
Make it steep so it's future proof if u get super strong. If it's hard make easier holds the difficulty is totally up to you
is this suitable for an outside wall?
If you build it with outdoor matterials and put a cover on the back.