One point that bears mentioning, this is not a DX-60 but a DX-60B. The DX-60 has a very different line cord configuration, with feed-through capacitors. This is helpful, but would be nice to see how a DX-60 cord is upgraded.
The extra terminal(s) on the terminal strip were junction points for the power transformer primaries when this was converted to 220V. Most of the power transformers had dual primary windings for 110v which were wired in-phase-in-parallel. When converting to 220v, they were rewired in series. This is clear on the schematic.
I dunno who the Goober is that gave this a thumbs-down, but I give Goober a half of a peace sign... Good video Terry. Thank you. It cleared up the one question I had so now I can proceed with my DX-60 update/upgrade. Excellent! 73 DE K7RMJ Frank
I laugh that someone felt it important enough to log in to RUclips just to give this a thumbs down. I think Dick the Troll is back Terry. Thanks for the safety tips. Congrats on 25k subscribers!
3:04 I think I'd have run the fuse leads on the other side of the strip - just so there's no chance that the screw going though that chassis screw hole doesn't make contact with those leads - especially the unfused side. Even if you try to keep it far away, gravity or someone else working on the unit may move it.
Thanks for your video. I have a S-76 Hallicrafter receiver but the power cord has been cut off. Please how do I put in a new cord without frying the transformer. Thank you. 73.
The radio was breaking up but now its Con-FUSED. :) Nice job Terry as always. Where do you get those fuse holder.. I have not been able to find them. Thanks sir
Terry - that is very nice of you. I'd gladly purchase them from you ( or disguised as a DLab donation) if you don't mind. I think you have my email address, - Thanks Ron
Could you do next a safety capciator,and or fuse ,I like to fix 1960 ,s era radios.and clock radios and some.are hot chais,I want to be safe ,I never seen you ever work on a 60 ,a radio s ,but a lot of us collect them.and want to be safe .I like the AA5 G.E.radios because I am still learning I did five or six so far they work well ,but a little safety couldn't hurt.
At 3:15 you announce "mission complete," and leave us in the dark about how you knew which, green or white, to connect to which terminal. Please clarify. Thanks.
On some vintage gear I've added a three-wire cord with the green wire to chassis and it would not turn on. When I removed the green wire it would work just fine. I'm not sure what I did wrong. One piece of equipment in particular had a ground plane instead of a star grounding system so maybe that had something to do with it. Any advice from anyone would be appreciated.
@Paul J Pachasa JR Yes the fuse or circuirt breaker would trip but only if the caps compleatly short. But if the caps where a little leaky it would pass AC to the chassis and not enofe to trip the fuse unless you had it running thru a gfi breaker but most would not only running thru a simple circuit breaker,
That brings up the thought that, while popping a fuse & holder into the stock circuit breaker location is an easy improvement, it might have been slightly better still to put the fuse & holder between the hot lead's bypass cap & the AC line. A bit more work but then if that cap ever (unlikely) failed, the radio's fuse would pop long before any branch circuit breaker would go.
One point that bears mentioning, this is not a DX-60 but a DX-60B. The DX-60 has a very different line cord configuration, with feed-through capacitors. This is helpful, but would be nice to see how a DX-60 cord is upgraded.
The extra terminal(s) on the terminal strip were junction points for the power transformer primaries when this was converted to 220V. Most of the power transformers had dual primary windings for 110v which were wired in-phase-in-parallel. When converting to 220v, they were rewired in series. This is clear on the schematic.
as always, fantastic video for us beginners.
I dunno who the Goober is that gave this a thumbs-down, but I give Goober a half of a peace sign... Good video Terry. Thank you. It cleared up the one question I had so now I can proceed with my DX-60 update/upgrade. Excellent! 73 DE K7RMJ Frank
Quick and simple you make it. Thanks for sharing Terry
I laugh that someone felt it important enough to log in to RUclips just to give this a thumbs down. I think Dick the Troll is back Terry. Thanks for the safety tips. Congrats on 25k subscribers!
Oh, surely they didn't log onto YT _just_ to down-vote this video! They probably down-voted a *lot* of videos in one session. :-P
I would add that it’s a good idea to replace those disc ceramic line caps with XY safety capacitors at the same time.
Can and/or should this be done on any two blade plug in equipment?
I love fuses.
Thanks Terry!
3:04 I think I'd have run the fuse leads on the other side of the strip - just so there's no chance that the screw going though that chassis screw hole doesn't make contact with those leads - especially the unfused side. Even if you try to keep it far away, gravity or someone else working on the unit may move it.
thank you for this educational video now i can change my two prong power cord on my hallicrafter sx100 it should be pretty similar i guess
Is it typical for those first AC caps to always be connected to ground, even before the switch ?
Thanks for your video. I have a S-76 Hallicrafter receiver but the power cord has been cut off. Please how do I put in a new cord without frying the transformer. Thank you. 73.
The radio was breaking up but now its Con-FUSED. :) Nice job Terry as always. Where do you get those fuse holder.. I have not been able to find them. Thanks sir
Hi Ron, I purchased them surplus. Do you need some? I'd be glad to ship you a care package
Terry - that is very nice of you. I'd gladly purchase them from you ( or disguised as a DLab donation) if you don't mind. I think you have my email address, - Thanks Ron
Looks good :)
Why no mention of the positive and negative polarity of the power cord? Do the tubes nullify this?
Terry did mention that the white wire (the neutral) went to the accessory socket and the black (hot side) went through the fuse...
That's an AC (alternating current) cord, not a DC (direct current) one. Polarity alternates 60 times per second.
Roger that man
Do you sell these items you repair?
Could you do next a safety capciator,and or fuse ,I like to fix 1960 ,s era radios.and clock radios and some.are hot chais,I want to be safe ,I never seen you ever work on a 60 ,a radio s ,but a lot of us collect them.and want to be safe .I like the AA5 G.E.radios because I am still learning I did five or six so far they work well ,but a little safety couldn't hurt.
At 3:15 you announce "mission complete," and leave us in the dark about how you knew which, green or white, to connect to which terminal. Please clarify. Thanks.
Thanks for the example on upgrading rigs. However this seems like a doctor asking another doctor how to apply a bandage.
On some vintage gear I've added a three-wire cord with the green wire to chassis and it would not turn on. When I removed the green wire it would work just fine. I'm not sure what I did wrong. One piece of equipment in particular had a ground plane instead of a star grounding system so maybe that had something to do with it. Any advice from anyone would be appreciated.
Since you where in there why not replace the safety caps also, I think you would want to
Same thought I had...
@Paul J Pachasa JR Yes the fuse or circuirt breaker would trip but only if the caps compleatly short. But if the caps where a little leaky it would pass AC to the chassis and not enofe to trip the fuse unless you had it running thru a gfi breaker but most would not only running thru a simple circuit breaker,
I think changing them for modern "Y" rated caps would be a good idea. Upgrade the safety just a bit more.
Excellent video! But while we’re in there, why not replace those original electrolytic caps? It’s working OK, but I don’t trust ‘em.
That brings up the thought that, while popping a fuse & holder into the stock circuit breaker location is an easy improvement, it might have been slightly better still to put the fuse & holder between the hot lead's bypass cap & the AC line. A bit more work but then if that cap ever (unlikely) failed, the radio's fuse would pop long before any branch circuit breaker would go.