This was an outstanding video. Thank you! Your tip on releasing the clips and tilting the front of the battery box down made all the difference. On my 2016 V60 I actually removed the air filter cover first, which allowed the front of the battery box to come off completely.
Watched your video, drove to AutoZone, bought the battery, and about 10 minutes later I was driving home. The video helped immensely in making quick work of this. I knew what to expect, what sockets to have, and was able to quickly guide the AZ gal with replacing it. Her small hands helped a LOT when getting the battery hold-down bolt removed. Thanks for taking time to record it. Spot on!
This video tutorial is essential! I was about to throw in the towel getting that battery clamp reinstalled after replacing my H6 with a larger H7 AGM in a 2017 XC60. Your detailed instructions and pointing out those front clips to expand the battery case were the key! Many thanks, and keep making your tutorials.
I just completed changing out the battery on my 2011 Volvo XC70 T6 using your video as my only guide. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience. Your video is excellent, and it completely covered the battery replacement procedure.
Great video , but am I the only one who thinks this is completely insane. I miss my 63 Plymouth valiant convertible and my 68 mustang. Two screws at the terminal, done!
This was an excellent video, Floyd, thank you for sharing this. My S60 is a couple of years older than yours, but absolutely everything about the battery connections matched yours.
Picked up my battery from Costco and tomorrow AM I put it in. Returning the old one after. Thanks for all the info this will make it easier and hopefully without skinned knuckles and a lot of loud four-letter words. I can't believe how complicated this has become. But that's due to all the goodies and gadgets. No longer a car but a mobile computer infotainment system.
My dad is out of action after being in a motorcycle accident. His 2015 Volvo needs a new battery. I've changed batteries in other cars before but this one when I popped the hood had me stuck for some reason. He can't be outside to help b/c he'll get too helpful and might try to lift the battery😅. This is just such a huge help. And learning partway through you're from Michigan, I knew I had the right channel since I grew up as a Yooper. Ty for making this so much easier! Off to Ace to buy the extension for the ratchet
I have a 2015 Volvo S60. My experience was the low battery indicator came on 4-5 years ago. I checked the voltage, and it was fine. So, I lived with it. The other day we had some below zero temps and decided to start the car for a bit because we had not driven it for a week. It started REALLY slow. In the morning, I went out to check it and it was dead as a door nail. Put a trickle charger on it for a day; the voltage only measured 3.71. Dead. Watched your video and replaced the battery that I picked up at Wal-Mart, for $179. Now, runs great. So, I got 4-5 more years off that battery. I'm not sure if that causes other problems, but everything is good now. Btw, it was the original Volvo battery from 2015. Over 8 years! Amazing...
Thank you! Great video. I had my Volvo in for routine maintenance when they told me the battery had failed the voltage test. They wanted $487 to replace it! After I picked myself off the floor I said no thanks. I got a top of the line battery that came to $175 with the 20% coupon and with the help of your video, easily put in the new battery. You saved me $300! I also found out that Advanced Auto Parts, where I bought my battery from, would have changed it for free! Good to know for next time but I expect this battery to last a long time. Thanks again!
Thanks mate, am about to charge my battery on my V60 2017 and it looked so annoying to remove at first. Thought i'd youtube and here you are with the same battery box as mine.
I neve had to do anything with my windows for my car. Haven't heard about that one yet. That's new. Why can't these manufacturers let you change a battery without having to practically reprogram the whole car?
Just used your video to change the battery in my wife’s 2016 Volvo S60 platinum inscription. The clips on the front of the battery box made a world of difference getting to the retaining bracket. Also found a 20% coupon for an “advanced” store on an Optima yellow top. No more low battery warning message. Than you!
I followed this videos and was able to replace my 2015 Volvos battery. Only thing different is I don’t see a vent tube in my car. Just a quick reminder that when performing the battery reset u will need to do those step in a quick manner
It's recommended to reset the BMS (Battery measurement module) in VIDA after a battery change so the computer can re-read the max and min of your battery.
I'm not totally sure that's always needed. It's not mentioned as a requirement in the Volvo online owner's manual instructions, found here. www.volvocars.com/en-ca/support/cars?pc=Y283&my=2015&sw=14w20&tab=ownersmanualonline&article=75a67086b9856182c0a801e801a0eed3-om-en-ca-y283-2015-14w20 I think when you take that negative terminal off, and disconnect that clip part I mention, which is the BMS sensor, then it will reset itself from that, then after letting it sit inactive overnight will do that recalculation on it's own. If you do experience troubles, you can also force a reset without VIDA by disconnecting that plug for 15 seconds, then letting it sit for at least 6 hours with the car locked and everything off so it goes inactive. That forces the BMS to reset and relearn the battery charge level. Cars sure aren't like the old days where you swap the battery and that's the end of it.
Good video, thanks for making it easy to understand. The low battery is just old data in the computer that the dealers expensive computer has to delete. My guy says you have to replace the negative cable as there is a module on it.
Very good video - thanks for the full demo. I've had this ongoing issue since 2020 on a new Volvo OEM 2019 installed battery for a 2012 S60 T6. Volvo dealer refuses to change battery although under warranty, and claims I don't drive car enough for battery to recharge. I compensated by hooking up a slow drip battery charger when it's really cold, or when I don't drive it enough but it seems that this battery will not hold a charge for more than a few days and I'm just about ready to swap it since it's a huge inconvenience now and had to jump start it more than once with my own power pack that I now keep in the car. What I will also say is that I agree with your initial statement - I will not buy a Volvo OEM battery again - something is definitely wrong with them maybe built in obsolescence because I have a 2011 C70 with original battery that cranks right up to this day in 2022 (11 yr old battery) and the previous S60 battery lasted 7 yrs as well.
Just did mine. $225 batt fro O'Reilly after veteran discount. I had to pull air filter top out of the way to remove front wall of batt housing which (a) let me lift the harness that covers hold-down 10mm and (b) allowed batt to slide right in. Also, when got to O'Reilly they asked how long my battery was because there are 2 sizes (11" & 12-1/2") which was mentioned on any of the several bots I used to search correct model.
Thank you for the video. Very helpful. Since replacing my battery, my seatbelt warning lights are on and my windows are acting strangely (when I hold down the close button, they go up and turn around come right back down. Do I need to do some kind of reset of the electronics system? Maybe pull out fuses and put them back in?
I'm not aware of any reset that needs to be done. This almost sounds like the issue the I think it was 2001 to 2009 models had with the window regulator. I think there may be a relearn method you can use to tell the windows what all the up, and all the way down are to re-train them. Not sure what it is for models after 2009 though.
Thanks for the great video. I replaced my battery about a month ago on my 2012 S60. I went to get a smog test and didn’t pass. Smog guy said I had to reset the computer, but wouldn’t the battery swap have done that? And I’ve been driving it daily for a month. Any suggestions?
I have heard people mention this but I've never had to do it. If I remember right, the procedure is to remove the battery negative cable and leave it off, press the brake pedal for at least 10 seconds, and if you have a hard key to insert into a keyed ignition, then do that and turn to position 2 (II). Leave the key in that position and reconnect the negative cable. Alternate method is to remove the battery cables and tape them together so they touch and leave them there for at least 30 minutes and reconnect them. Never had to do it so can't confirm that actually works, but it's easy enough to test. i don't know how to confirm it works other than having a code scanner of some sort and knowing what the code is to look for.
Very helpful, thanks! Excellent detailed video and description! I have a 2016 Volvo S60 T5, no options. But.. I screwed up. The first terminal cable was difficult to remove so I used a screwdriver to help pry it up. I know, duh, why did I use a metal object around a battery! Big spark on the attachment with the small Volvo label. Ruh roh! I continued, no other issues. New battery installed. Jumped in the driver's seat -- No power to car functions... lights, or instrument displays, and of course no response to key insertion or start button. Hopefully you are still active on this video/subject. Help!! Advice? Suggestions? What did I kill? Could it be as simple as a fuse? Thanks Floyd or anyone else!
You probably sold that car by now but for anyone else... I understand that there's a ridiculous shut off in the electronics of the positive battery cable. Try installing a new positive cable. Should fire up.
Hello, thanks and it gave the overall idea how to change the battery by myself. One question, there were vent holes at both left and right sides of the battery. The right one needs to be connected to the white vent tude. What about the left vent hole? Do I have to leave it open as it is?
Actually, I just did this swap and would recommend the following: the OEM battery also has holes at both ends, but the front hole has a small plug in it. I removed this and plugged the front hole of the replacement battery with it. Seems to me this is preferable to ensure no gases vent through the front hole. Just my 2 cents...
I agree the front vent should be plugged. My replacement battery (from one of the advance parts places) came with one, attached to the positive terminal cover. Or pull the plug from the old battery.
I agree, i went to Advance and AutoZone for a Battery and I was surprised to see the prices and they didn't have the battery i needed, I ended up getting my battery from the Dealer and paid $10 more for the battery and didn't have to pay a core charge.
That hose (is from the coolant?) inside the battery enclosure and right on top of the holder is a nightmare of a design decision. I was afraid if I were to bend the hose too much it will break. It turned what should be a 10min job into more than 1hr. Thanks for the vid!!
From what I can find that could be a couple of things. A faulty door lock could do that, or the siren module for the alarm system actually has it's own little long life battery in it that can go bad. I found this in a forum that may help test if that's the case "You can also test the siren by locking the doors, waiting 20-30 seconds for the alarm to arm and then pulling up on the door lock pin. You should hear a high-pitched wailing. " I love my Volvo's but do have to wonder what the heck they were thinking for some things.
Thanks for great vid..just one comment. If you choose to buy an aftermarket (non Volvo) battery, take measurements to see if it fits into your battery compartment. And make sure it's an AGM type of battery if you do have a engine start/stop system
Yep, did all that. The batteries have a number associated with them so you just have to basically match the number to the replacement. Volvo doesn't actually make the batteries anyway. No matter what name is on the battery, there are only about 3 major manufactures, in the US that is, that make all "brands" of batteries. I believe my original battery was an Intersate with Volvo labeling, and Interstate is made by Johnson Controls.
Hello Floyd I have a 2012 V60 - Start stop dos not work and when i turn the motor of the radio keeps on playing until i open the door but when i wait to long to open the door i get the warning low battery. i have this problem now for 2,5 years and the car starts fine even when i don't drive it for a week or more. Dit you get the battery tested to see if indeed it was the battery greetings from Holland.
I didn't have my battery tested. From what I was able to learn from some of the Volvo forums, and a mechanic who owned a shop and saw several of these come thru, the factory battery (some of them) appears to only be able to charge to a little over 12 volts after 3 or 4 years. It's still plenty of voltage to allow the car to start just fine, and maintain that level for weeks, but it's low enough to trigger a low voltage warning and disable the start/stop function. The battery may last for years that way too. A fully charged battery should read about 12.6 volts. People were saying theirs would only ready about 12.0 to 12.2, and apparently that must be about what it takes to trigger that warning. I wasn't going to change mine, but when it got to that point where I would go to work, and at the end of the day when I got in the car it immediately showed the low voltage warning, I decided I no longer wanted to test and find out how long it would last that way.
@@FloydNashFixItDad Thank you for your honest reply and real world observations about choosing a store that stands behind the warranty more than the name brand!
I have a 17 xc60 with the second battery being almost shot......I am not a mechanic, but I bet the stop start function causes excess battery drain and caused the second battery to weaken prematurely.
Thanks for the video Floyd! I have the same car, and began getting battery warnings around 40k miles. After replacing the main battery, I still got the warnings and it seems the secondary battery (aka start/stop) is dead. I just ordered a new secondary battery for about $95, but was wondering if you ever had to replace this one? It seems its on the other side of the engine (passenger side). Thanks!
Holy cow! I never even knew that battery existed. I initially did have good results with start/stop but after about a month it has some come and go issues again. I ended up having to do a total battery reset procedure which kind of clears out all the learned info about the capacity of the batteries, and forces the car to test and relearn everything from scratch. I posted that info below. Since then, I haven't had a single issue. 1 - Ignition ON (engine off) 2 - dipped front lights ON (turn light switch to far right) 3 - Rear fog lights press 6x (3 on/off cycles) (button to left of light switch) 4 - Hazzard lights press 3x - Battery icon blinks 3x
@@FloydNashFixItDad Thanks, I will definitely try this out! Yea, I learned the hard way when our S60 died at a stoplight in a thunderstorm and wouldn't turn back on. I'm told it was the start/stop battery that caused it. Right now I drive with it turned off and other than warning messages its not a problem but I'd like to get the start/stop working again to save some fuel. I'll let you know if I end up replacing that unit.
Changed the battery and it started making a siren very loud and completely different than the horn and it wouldn’t stop. I am totally not sure what I did wrong. Any thoughts?
Sounds like the car thought it was being stolen. Maybe close the doors, lock them with the key FOB, then unlock them. Might just be able to hit the panic button on the key FOB to turn it off too.
You didn't mention anything about resetting the BMS system to indicate a new battery was installed. If you don't reset the BMS system when installing a new starter battery, the new battery can and likely will be overcharged (since the computer thinks you still have the old battery in). Then the new battery may only last a year or so. Its a shame Volvo doesn't mention this in the owner's manuals.
When you unplug the BMS it will force it to do a minor relearn on it. If anything though, it doesn't go far enough. I ended up about 3 or 4 months later having to use some really obscure multi-button routine that forces it to totally re-learn the battery charge level and charge capacity. It's really sad that car makers these days can't just make it so that if the battery is unplugged, it does all that automatically.
@@FloydNashFixItDad How can the BMS system know if you installed a new battery or if you just reconnected the old one again. So you have to tell the BMS manually. But, you forgot to mention what the maciic sequence is, that you used to reset the BMS to a new installed battery?
@@mulldruff From what I was told initially, you only needed to unplug the BMS to reset it, which you do during the battery replacement. I did find a couple of months later that there is indeed a secret code to force a total charging system relearn. Look here for that video ruclips.net/video/244elOIDBVM/видео.html
I don't think so but you would have to measure the available space. Your car I believe takes an H5 battery, also known as group 47. An H7 is also known as group 94R. Width and height are the same but the Length is different. H5 is 9 11/16 inches long while H7 is 12 3/8, so the H7 may not physically fit the spot where the existing battery is.
No, I didn't in this case. Unplugging that connector on the negative terminal disconnects the BLM or Battery Life Monitor so, in theory, should be all you need to do. Performing a full reset doesn't hurt anything though, at least not as far as I'm aware.
There may be alternative types of batteries that don't use the vent tubes, I'm not sure. The recommended replacement batteries I found were mostly all the AGM (Advanced Glass Mat) batteries, and it looks like they all were vented and had a standard fitting for a vent tube to be connected. I just made sure I got one that was a direct replacement. The start/stop feature does take a lot out of a battery sometimes, and I don't know if standard lead-acid batteries are up to the task.
It's really finicky that you get everything just right in the sequence. Also try with the key in the slot for it. I know my oil life reset doesn't seem to want to work unless the key is in the slot
YES!! I did it--thanks for your detailed instructions. I saved $150 (independent shop) to $250 (Volvo dealer) on a battery and labor. Our 2015-1/2 V60 was exactly like your video car, except for a stabilizing bar that is bolted across the fenders and the battery. I used a flathead screwdriver to gently unseat its grate cover edges on either end and a 15mm socket to remove the bolts securing it. Thanks again--so helpful!!! I used this to reset the BMS ruclips.net/video/iu9z5m78Szw/видео.html .
It's amazing just how much a dealership will charge for a simple, quick thing. They only make a fraction of their money on car sales. The rest is on inflated prices on service after the sale.
I am 83 yrs. And I had a mechanic attempt to put a battery in my 2015 V60 volvo wagon, I had him watch your video on my I-Pad an then it was installed. The video helped a great deal, your my number 1mechanic. Your videos are so precise and clear to what you have to do to start and complete your project. Jim DeMaio Port St. Lucie Florida.
I don't have any real preference on brands. For a newer car especially, I tend to want to make sure it's a name brand. I believe almost all car batteries in the US are made by only 3 companies anyway, no matter what the brand. I do know for this car with the start-stop feature, I definitely would recommend making sure the battery is the newer AGM or Advanced Glass Matt battery, not the older lead acid. The new AGM batteries will hold more charge for longer, allow for a deeper discharge, and better ability to recover. I like to buy from a place that stands behind the warranty too. I ended up getting mine from one of the Batteries Plus type places. It's a Duracell branded. I've used them before and they have always done me well. I believe these are just rebranded Interstate batteries, which is another good brand. Optima, Die Hard (available at Sears), and AC Delco are really good. The Duralast brand sold at Autozone I've heard really good things about too. Name brand from a reputable source goes a long way with batteries.
WOW! That's a huge deal. I think I might have had to get 2 of those and keep the spare on a maintenance charger or perhaps re-sell it. Considering the average price for an AGM battery starts at $200, you could have re-sold the second one, paid for the replacement, and pocketed some change!
I’ve been looking for one for my V60 (just in case) and yep I’ve seen them at over $300, but that must be the price for people stranded on the road or something? I remember the days of $40 batteries too, but they didn’t seem to last as long back then and were often on charge over winter 🥶
@FloydNashFixItDad And the $322 was with a 10% discount from the Volvo dealer. Which is why I went to Auto Zone. Got an AGM battery with a 4 year warranty for $225.
This was an outstanding video. Thank you! Your tip on releasing the clips and tilting the front of the battery box down made all the difference. On my 2016 V60 I actually removed the air filter cover first, which allowed the front of the battery box to come off completely.
Yes, another great video and thank you for posting!
Watched your video, drove to AutoZone, bought the battery, and about 10 minutes later I was driving home. The video helped immensely in making quick work of this. I knew what to expect, what sockets to have, and was able to quickly guide the AZ gal with replacing it. Her small hands helped a LOT when getting the battery hold-down bolt removed. Thanks for taking time to record it. Spot on!
This makes me smile so big. I'm glad it helped get you going again!
This video tutorial is essential! I was about to throw in the towel getting that battery clamp reinstalled after replacing my H6 with a larger H7 AGM in a 2017 XC60. Your detailed instructions and pointing out those front clips to expand the battery case were the key! Many thanks, and keep making your tutorials.
I just completed changing out the battery on my 2011 Volvo XC70 T6 using your video as my only guide. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience. Your video is excellent, and it completely covered the battery replacement procedure.
Great video , but am I the only one who thinks this is completely insane. I miss my 63 Plymouth valiant convertible and my 68 mustang. Two screws at the terminal, done!
This was an excellent video, Floyd, thank you for sharing this. My S60 is a couple of years older than yours, but absolutely everything about the battery connections matched yours.
Great information. I'm a recent owner of a used XC60 and your tips will come in very useful. Thank You!
Thank you sir. Would not have attempted without seeing how easy it was.
Nicely done Floyd, you've helped a lot of people!
I appreciate you sharing this with us, thank you. I can’t believe how many steps it takes to remove a battery.
Picked up my battery from Costco and tomorrow AM I put it in. Returning the old one after. Thanks for all the info this will make it easier and hopefully without skinned knuckles and a lot of loud four-letter words. I can't believe how complicated this has become. But that's due to all the goodies and gadgets. No longer a car but a mobile computer infotainment system.
My dad is out of action after being in a motorcycle accident. His 2015 Volvo needs a new battery. I've changed batteries in other cars before but this one when I popped the hood had me stuck for some reason. He can't be outside to help b/c he'll get too helpful and might try to lift the battery😅. This is just such a huge help. And learning partway through you're from Michigan, I knew I had the right channel since I grew up as a Yooper. Ty for making this so much easier! Off to Ace to buy the extension for the ratchet
Thank you as well. Always a good day when you have an excuse to buy a new tool!
Great video! Thanks...you saved me a trip to confession and the hospital!
Sooo good. Lots of good tips. The best one on you tube for changing a battery in this Volvo.
Great video Floyd! best regards from Sweden!
Thanks for sharing this! My 2014 has a slightly larger battery box and my hands fit down inside pretty easily.
Awesome tutorial, Floyd. Thanks for posting!
What a SOLID and into details video!! Thank you Sir!!
Easy peasy. I’ve now replaced both the backup and main batteries with your videos. Thanks!
Good stuff my friend!! Appreciate the tips and tricks (especially getting that holder to sit right!)
A thousand thanks for this video, your tip abort being able to loosen the front was a lifesver for me.
I have a 2015 Volvo S60. My experience was the low battery indicator came on 4-5 years ago. I checked the voltage, and it was fine. So, I lived with it. The other day we had some below zero temps and decided to start the car for a bit because we had not driven it for a week. It started REALLY slow. In the morning, I went out to check it and it was dead as a door nail. Put a trickle charger on it for a day; the voltage only measured 3.71. Dead. Watched your video and replaced the battery that I picked up at Wal-Mart, for $179. Now, runs great. So, I got 4-5 more years off that battery. I'm not sure if that causes other problems, but everything is good now. Btw, it was the original Volvo battery from 2015. Over 8 years! Amazing...
Thank you! Great video. I had my Volvo in for routine maintenance when they told me the battery had failed the voltage test. They wanted $487 to replace it! After I picked myself off the floor I said no thanks. I got a top of the line battery that came to $175 with the 20% coupon and with the help of your video, easily put in the new battery. You saved me $300! I also found out that Advanced Auto Parts, where I bought my battery from, would have changed it for free! Good to know for next time but I expect this battery to last a long time. Thanks again!
Autozone wouldn’t change mine bc their computer said it would take 30 min 🙄
Thanks mate, am about to charge my battery on my V60 2017 and it looked so annoying to remove at first. Thought i'd youtube and here you are with the same battery box as mine.
Thank you very much from Germany.
Battery replaced and works 100% fine!
You made me save a lot of money!!
just replaced my battery after watching this video. It does help alot. As a reminder, the windows will need to be reset for auto mode.
I neve had to do anything with my windows for my car. Haven't heard about that one yet. That's new. Why can't these manufacturers let you change a battery without having to practically reprogram the whole car?
This is a great video, you helped me infinitely... Thanks!
Just used your video to change the battery in my wife’s 2016 Volvo S60 platinum inscription. The clips on the front of the battery box made a world of difference getting to the retaining bracket. Also found a 20% coupon for an “advanced” store on an Optima yellow top. No more low battery warning message. Than you!
That's awesome! I'm glad to hear that people are able to get some use out of my videos, and saving a little money is always nice too!
Great video! Thanks for all the help
I followed this videos and was able to replace my 2015 Volvos battery. Only thing different is I don’t see a vent tube in my car. Just a quick reminder that when performing the battery reset u will need to do those step in a quick manner
It's recommended to reset the BMS (Battery measurement module) in VIDA after a battery change so the computer can re-read the max and min of your battery.
I'm not totally sure that's always needed. It's not mentioned as a requirement in the Volvo online owner's manual instructions, found here. www.volvocars.com/en-ca/support/cars?pc=Y283&my=2015&sw=14w20&tab=ownersmanualonline&article=75a67086b9856182c0a801e801a0eed3-om-en-ca-y283-2015-14w20
I think when you take that negative terminal off, and disconnect that clip part I mention, which is the BMS sensor, then it will reset itself from that, then after letting it sit inactive overnight will do that recalculation on it's own. If you do experience troubles, you can also force a reset without VIDA by disconnecting that plug for 15 seconds, then letting it sit for at least 6 hours with the car locked and everything off so it goes inactive. That forces the BMS to reset and relearn the battery charge level.
Cars sure aren't like the old days where you swap the battery and that's the end of it.
Great video on the battery replacement. I have the same car and year.
Great video. Steps worked exactly on my 2017 xc60 t5. Thx
great video just about to take my dads battery out for him since it’s needing a replacement. thanks a lot!
Glad I could help
Good video, thanks for making it easy to understand. The low battery is just old data in the computer that the dealers expensive computer has to delete. My guy says you have to replace the negative cable as there is a module on it.
Very good video - thanks for the full demo. I've had this ongoing issue since 2020 on a new Volvo OEM 2019 installed battery for a 2012 S60 T6. Volvo dealer refuses to change battery although under warranty, and claims I don't drive car enough for battery to recharge. I compensated by hooking up a slow drip battery charger when it's really cold, or when I don't drive it enough but it seems that this battery will not hold a charge for more than a few days and I'm just about ready to swap it since it's a huge inconvenience now and had to jump start it more than once with my own power pack that I now keep in the car. What I will also say is that I agree with your initial statement - I will not buy a Volvo OEM battery again - something is definitely wrong with them maybe built in obsolescence because I have a 2011 C70 with original battery that cranks right up to this day in 2022 (11 yr old battery) and the previous S60 battery lasted 7 yrs as well.
Thank you for the video. It was very helpful
Great video. Thank you!!
Thanks Floyd!
Just did mine. $225 batt fro O'Reilly after veteran discount. I had to pull air filter top out of the way to remove front wall of batt housing which (a) let me lift the harness that covers hold-down 10mm and (b) allowed batt to slide right in. Also, when got to O'Reilly they asked how long my battery was because there are 2 sizes (11" & 12-1/2") which was mentioned on any of the several bots I used to search correct model.
Just bought a Volvo , he telling me what's happening know ,great.
Thank you for the video. Very helpful. Since replacing my battery, my seatbelt warning lights are on and my windows are acting strangely (when I hold down the close button, they go up and turn around come right back down. Do I need to do some kind of reset of the electronics system? Maybe pull out fuses and put them back in?
I'm not aware of any reset that needs to be done. This almost sounds like the issue the I think it was 2001 to 2009 models had with the window regulator. I think there may be a relearn method you can use to tell the windows what all the up, and all the way down are to re-train them. Not sure what it is for models after 2009 though.
@@FloydNashFixItDad Thank you for the swift and generous reply. Much appreciated. Fingers crossed I'll come across an easy solution
Nice video and Good job, it was very interesting. Thank you ////////////////////
Thanks for the great video. I replaced my battery about a month ago on my 2012 S60. I went to get a smog test and didn’t pass. Smog guy said I had to reset the computer, but wouldn’t the battery swap have done that? And I’ve been driving it daily for a month. Any suggestions?
I have heard people mention this but I've never had to do it. If I remember right, the procedure is to remove the battery negative cable and leave it off, press the brake pedal for at least 10 seconds, and if you have a hard key to insert into a keyed ignition, then do that and turn to position 2 (II). Leave the key in that position and reconnect the negative cable. Alternate method is to remove the battery cables and tape them together so they touch and leave them there for at least 30 minutes and reconnect them. Never had to do it so can't confirm that actually works, but it's easy enough to test. i don't know how to confirm it works other than having a code scanner of some sort and knowing what the code is to look for.
Very helpful, thanks! Excellent detailed video and description! I have a 2016 Volvo S60 T5, no options. But.. I screwed up. The first terminal cable was difficult to remove so I used a screwdriver to help pry it up. I know, duh, why did I use a metal object around a battery! Big spark on the attachment with the small Volvo label. Ruh roh! I continued, no other issues. New battery installed. Jumped in the driver's seat -- No power to car functions... lights, or instrument displays, and of course no response to key insertion or start button. Hopefully you are still active on this video/subject. Help!! Advice? Suggestions? What did I kill? Could it be as simple as a fuse? Thanks Floyd or anyone else!
You probably sold that car by now but for anyone else... I understand that there's a ridiculous shut off in the electronics of the positive battery cable. Try installing a new positive cable. Should fire up.
Thx much dude
Many thanks for this useful video. I was able to do it mysellf with your guidance.
Hello, thanks and it gave the overall idea how to change the battery by myself. One question, there were vent holes at both left and right sides of the battery. The right one needs to be connected to the white vent tude. What about the left vent hole? Do I have to leave it open as it is?
Yes, just leave it like it is. The vent holes are there so you can connect to whichever side you need.
Actually, I just did this swap and would recommend the following: the OEM battery also has holes at both ends, but the front hole has a small plug in it. I removed this and plugged the front hole of the replacement battery with it. Seems to me this is preferable to ensure no gases vent through the front hole. Just my 2 cents...
I agree the front vent should be plugged. My replacement battery (from one of the advance parts places) came with one, attached to the positive terminal cover. Or pull the plug from the old battery.
I agree, i went to Advance and AutoZone for a Battery and I was surprised to see the prices and they didn't have the battery i needed, I ended up getting my battery from the Dealer and paid $10 more for the battery and didn't have to pay a core charge.
Thanks.
That hose (is from the coolant?) inside the battery enclosure and right on top of the holder is a nightmare of a design decision. I was afraid if I were to bend the hose too much it will break. It turned what should be a 10min job into more than 1hr. Thanks for the vid!!
Great video!
Changed battery in 2015 Volvo S60 & now I have Alarm system Malfunction service required.
Any suggestions?
From what I can find that could be a couple of things. A faulty door lock could do that, or the siren module for the alarm system actually has it's own little long life battery in it that can go bad. I found this in a forum that may help test if that's the case "You can also test the siren by locking the doors, waiting 20-30 seconds for the alarm to arm and then pulling up on the door lock pin. You should hear a high-pitched wailing. " I love my Volvo's but do have to wonder what the heck they were thinking for some things.
Can't thank you enough!!!
Thanks for great vid..just one comment. If you choose to buy an aftermarket (non Volvo) battery, take measurements to see if it fits into your battery compartment. And make sure it's an AGM type of battery if you do have a engine start/stop system
Yep, did all that. The batteries have a number associated with them so you just have to basically match the number to the replacement. Volvo doesn't actually make the batteries anyway. No matter what name is on the battery, there are only about 3 major manufactures, in the US that is, that make all "brands" of batteries. I believe my original battery was an Intersate with Volvo labeling, and Interstate is made by Johnson Controls.
Hello Floyd I have a 2012 V60 - Start stop dos not work and when i turn the motor of the radio keeps on playing until i open the door but when i wait to long to open the door i get the warning low battery. i have this problem now for 2,5 years and the car starts fine even when i don't drive it for a week or more. Dit you get the battery tested to see if indeed it was the battery greetings from Holland.
I didn't have my battery tested. From what I was able to learn from some of the Volvo forums, and a mechanic who owned a shop and saw several of these come thru, the factory battery (some of them) appears to only be able to charge to a little over 12 volts after 3 or 4 years. It's still plenty of voltage to allow the car to start just fine, and maintain that level for weeks, but it's low enough to trigger a low voltage warning and disable the start/stop function. The battery may last for years that way too. A fully charged battery should read about 12.6 volts. People were saying theirs would only ready about 12.0 to 12.2, and apparently that must be about what it takes to trigger that warning. I wasn't going to change mine, but when it got to that point where I would go to work, and at the end of the day when I got in the car it immediately showed the low voltage warning, I decided I no longer wanted to test and find out how long it would last that way.
@@FloydNashFixItDad Thank you for your honest reply and real world observations about choosing a store that stands behind the warranty more than the name brand!
Would be interested to learn how the start stop effects gas consumption
I have a 17 xc60 with the second battery being almost shot......I am not a mechanic, but I bet the stop start function causes excess battery drain and caused the second battery to weaken prematurely.
Thanks for the video Floyd! I have the same car, and began getting battery warnings around 40k miles. After replacing the main battery, I still got the warnings and it seems the secondary battery (aka start/stop) is dead. I just ordered a new secondary battery for about $95, but was wondering if you ever had to replace this one? It seems its on the other side of the engine (passenger side). Thanks!
Holy cow! I never even knew that battery existed. I initially did have good results with start/stop but after about a month it has some come and go issues again. I ended up having to do a total battery reset procedure which kind of clears out all the learned info about the capacity of the batteries, and forces the car to test and relearn everything from scratch. I posted that info below. Since then, I haven't had a single issue.
1 - Ignition ON (engine off)
2 - dipped front lights ON (turn light switch to far right)
3 - Rear fog lights press 6x (3 on/off cycles) (button to left of light switch)
4 - Hazzard lights press 3x
- Battery icon blinks 3x
@@FloydNashFixItDad Thanks, I will definitely try this out! Yea, I learned the hard way when our S60 died at a stoplight in a thunderstorm and wouldn't turn back on. I'm told it was the start/stop battery that caused it. Right now I drive with it turned off and other than warning messages its not a problem but I'd like to get the start/stop working again to save some fuel. I'll let you know if I end up replacing that unit.
Child labor is KEY in this install.
Changed the battery and it started making a siren very loud and completely different than the horn and it wouldn’t stop. I am totally not sure what I did wrong. Any thoughts?
Sounds like the car thought it was being stolen. Maybe close the doors, lock them with the key FOB, then unlock them. Might just be able to hit the panic button on the key FOB to turn it off too.
Also would suggest a Go Pro for filming if possible
You didn't mention anything about resetting the BMS system to indicate a new battery was installed. If you don't reset the BMS system when installing a new starter battery, the new battery can and likely will be overcharged (since the computer thinks you still have the old battery in). Then the new battery may only last a year or so. Its a shame Volvo doesn't mention this in the owner's manuals.
When you unplug the BMS it will force it to do a minor relearn on it. If anything though, it doesn't go far enough. I ended up about 3 or 4 months later having to use some really obscure multi-button routine that forces it to totally re-learn the battery charge level and charge capacity. It's really sad that car makers these days can't just make it so that if the battery is unplugged, it does all that automatically.
Floyd Nash Exactly. I had to do the “magic” sequence, then l used a OBD scan tool to verify that the Battery use days was reset back to Zero.
@@FloydNashFixItDad How can the BMS system know if you installed a new battery or if you just reconnected the old one again. So you have to tell the BMS manually. But, you forgot to mention what the maciic sequence is, that you used to reset the BMS to a new installed battery?
@@mulldruff From what I was told initially, you only needed to unplug the BMS to reset it, which you do during the battery replacement. I did find a couple of months later that there is indeed a secret code to force a total charging system relearn. Look here for that video ruclips.net/video/244elOIDBVM/видео.html
@@FloydNashFixItDad Thanks a lot! 👍
Does anyone know if a interstate H7 Costco battery will fit a 2017 S60 inscription?
I don't think so but you would have to measure the available space. Your car I believe takes an H5 battery, also known as group 47. An H7 is also known as group 94R. Width and height are the same but the Length is different. H5 is 9 11/16 inches long while H7 is 12 3/8, so the H7 may not physically fit the spot where the existing battery is.
have you done battery reset after changing battery?
No, I didn't in this case. Unplugging that connector on the negative terminal disconnects the BLM or Battery Life Monitor so, in theory, should be all you need to do. Performing a full reset doesn't hurt anything though, at least not as far as I'm aware.
Do you need a battery that takes the vent tube?
There may be alternative types of batteries that don't use the vent tubes, I'm not sure. The recommended replacement batteries I found were mostly all the AGM (Advanced Glass Mat) batteries, and it looks like they all were vented and had a standard fitting for a vent tube to be connected. I just made sure I got one that was a direct replacement. The start/stop feature does take a lot out of a battery sometimes, and I don't know if standard lead-acid batteries are up to the task.
Floyd Nash Thank you!
Ok got the new battery, tried to reset it by doing what you said didn't see battery indicator
It's really finicky that you get everything just right in the sequence. Also try with the key in the slot for it. I know my oil life reset doesn't seem to want to work unless the key is in the slot
@@FloydNashFixItDad got it thx!!!
To turn ignition ON you should press Start button without brake pedal for 3-5 seconds
❤讚❤感謝分享☀
You're very welcome 不客氣
would be nice to have battery group and size for reference.
It's a 94R
YES!! I did it--thanks for your detailed instructions. I saved $150 (independent shop) to $250 (Volvo dealer) on a battery and labor. Our 2015-1/2 V60 was exactly like your video car, except for a stabilizing bar that is bolted across the fenders and the battery. I used a flathead screwdriver to gently unseat its grate cover edges on either end and a 15mm socket to remove the bolts securing it. Thanks again--so helpful!!! I used this to reset the BMS ruclips.net/video/iu9z5m78Szw/видео.html .
It's amazing just how much a dealership will charge for a simple, quick thing. They only make a fraction of their money on car sales. The rest is on inflated prices on service after the sale.
I am 83 yrs. And I had a mechanic attempt to put a battery in my 2015 V60 volvo wagon, I had him watch your video on my I-Pad an then it was installed. The video helped a great deal, your my number 1mechanic. Your videos are so precise and clear to what you have to do to start and complete your project.
Jim DeMaio Port St. Lucie Florida.
Nice vid need some plaster eh
Which battery do you recommend?
I don't have any real preference on brands. For a newer car especially, I tend to want to make sure it's a name brand. I believe almost all car batteries in the US are made by only 3 companies anyway, no matter what the brand. I do know for this car with the start-stop feature, I definitely would recommend making sure the battery is the newer AGM or Advanced Glass Matt battery, not the older lead acid. The new AGM batteries will hold more charge for longer, allow for a deeper discharge, and better ability to recover. I like to buy from a place that stands behind the warranty too. I ended up getting mine from one of the Batteries Plus type places. It's a Duracell branded. I've used them before and they have always done me well. I believe these are just rebranded Interstate batteries, which is another good brand. Optima, Die Hard (available at Sears), and AC Delco are really good. The Duralast brand sold at Autozone I've heard really good things about too. Name brand from a reputable source goes a long way with batteries.
@@FloydNashFixItDad Absorbed Glass Mat
You forgot the battery plug buddy. It will eventually leak and corrode the two big bolts on the bottom.
Batteries PLUS store Coupon code was AUTO20
20% OFF UNTIL NOVEMBER 30TH
I found genuine Volvo batteries online for $102 incl. shipping to TN!
WOW! That's a huge deal. I think I might have had to get 2 of those and keep the spare on a maintenance charger or perhaps re-sell it. Considering the average price for an AGM battery starts at $200, you could have re-sold the second one, paid for the replacement, and pocketed some change!
Reset the BMS..
You are still getting ripped off on batteries, they are more like $120 in the UK for a Bosch
Wow, that's a really good price. We've become the land of rip offs lately though, so that's no surprise.
I’ve been looking for one for my V60 (just in case) and yep I’ve seen them at over $300, but that must be the price for people stranded on the road or something?
I remember the days of $40 batteries too, but they didn’t seem to last as long back then and were often on charge over winter 🥶
forgot to close the vent hole
You don't want to close the vent hole. Any escaping gasses need a way to get out so they don't build up to a dangerous level.
I was told that by a mechanic here in Perú, but I didn´t believe him. Now I do thanks.
What, you didn't spend $322 for a OEM Volvo battery!!!!! (I didn't)
Oh heck to the NO I didn't!
@FloydNashFixItDad And the $322 was with a 10% discount from the Volvo dealer. Which is why I went to Auto Zone. Got an AGM battery with a 4 year warranty for $225.
Batteries shouldn't be this difficult to chnage/replace...that's why mechanics charge you an arm and a leg.
If anybody has the epic tons of wires distributor panel on top of their battery, this DIY helps imgur.com/a/rCeuq7Z
When you shop......stores will not bother to match Volvo specs
This will bite you later