True. Most customers don't want to spend the money for one and they're not really necessary for residential pools. Commercial pools must have them. This is just an inexpensive way to get you in the ballpark.
i hear ya but as a residential pool owner with a VS pump I absolutely want to know and to be able to adjust my pump...and $100.00 for the flowVis meter is really not that much...
Hello! I have seen your videos and I have a question! I noticed you said this pool was a salt water pool. If I was to ever own a pool what kind would you recommend Salt or Regular? And which is less expensive and why?
I would recommend a salt pool. The reason is BC the salt gives the water a much softer feel while swimming. A Chlorine pool would be less expensive to maintain BC you don't have the added salt to maintain or the equipment you would need to buy for a salt pool.
thats amazing, my pool is also around 11k gal, and i runs like 8+hr a day. not knowing how to reduce since i worry if not making at least one turn over. Does your pool use vacuum line or you have something like in floor cleaning system(pop-up head)?
by yourself a vacuum gauge off of Amazon and screw it into the bottom of your pump just as he did. figure out your total dynamic head and pull up the spec sheet on your pump by way of using model number. Once you figure out how long it takes for one rotation of all water and pool go over to your pool timer and set it for that amount of time. it's very simple man you just watched him do it. at the moment you're probably wasting 4 hours of juice everyday as well as the extra wear and tear on your equipment...
How would I infer the GPM if the TDH axis and GPM don't fall on the RPM line? For example, in your video you had 2350 RPM which worked out, but what if I wanted to run in a lower RPM like 1500rpm? The lines wouldn't intersect. Or does TDH decrease with lower RPMs where I would see it line up on the performance curve?
Yes both will decrease as you lower the RPM. Remember a pool can't survive on just filtration alone so it's not a good idea to run at those low RPM bc you will not get the circulation you need to move the chlorine around the pool. You can split high RPM with Low RPM.
@@swimmingpoolchemistrydoner5569 thank you. I was looking to maybe run on a higher speed for a couple hours a day and then lower speed to make up the rest of the GPM to turn the water over at least once per day (using the least electricity to accomplish it). I read that the longer you keep the water moving, even at low speeds, is better at preventing bacteria growth than if you are stagnant. Sound like a good plan or is it diminishing returns after like 8 hours a day? I'll have to see where things shake out once I measure the vacuum when I get the gauge in since I need around 30gpm optimally for my solar collectors.
Good starting point. Mustard Algae is a good sign of lack of circulation. Maintain 4 ppm chlorine, good circulation and filtration and you shouldn't get algae. If you do then you're missing one of those three.
This is a great method, and helps those who are interested in how to calculate GPM with vacuum. Thank you for taking the time to share!
The way it’s shown in your video explains it so much easier than the book! 😆 I learn easier with hands on
Good video. Good job in explaining the feet/head method. I am new to sand filter world. Wish me luck.
a flow meter would work just as good if not better and you can adjust anytime...
True. Most customers don't want to spend the money for one and they're not really necessary for residential pools. Commercial pools must have them. This is just an inexpensive way to get you in the ballpark.
i hear ya but as a residential pool owner with a VS pump I absolutely want to know and to be able to adjust my pump...and $100.00 for the flowVis meter is really not that much...
It would be nice if more people would think like you do. I do it to save customers money. Totally agree with you.
Right on brother! 🤟
Got to love all the pool guys in my area, they swear up and down that you must run your pump 12 hours a day...
Good stuff. What app is that on the computer?
Hello! I have seen your videos and I have a question! I noticed you said this pool was a salt water pool. If I was to ever own a pool what kind would you recommend Salt or Regular? And which is less expensive and why?
I would recommend a salt pool. The reason is BC the salt gives the water a much softer feel while swimming. A Chlorine pool would be less expensive to maintain BC you don't have the added salt to maintain or the equipment you would need to buy for a salt pool.
thats amazing, my pool is also around 11k gal, and i runs like 8+hr a day. not knowing how to reduce since i worry if not making at least one turn over. Does your pool use vacuum line or you have something like in floor cleaning system(pop-up head)?
by yourself a vacuum gauge off of Amazon and screw it into the bottom of your pump just as he did. figure out your total dynamic head and pull up the spec sheet on your pump by way of using model number. Once you figure out how long it takes for one rotation of all water and pool go over to your pool timer and set it for that amount of time. it's very simple man you just watched him do it. at the moment you're probably wasting 4 hours of juice everyday as well as the extra wear and tear on your equipment...
How would I infer the GPM if the TDH axis and GPM don't fall on the RPM line? For example, in your video you had 2350 RPM which worked out, but what if I wanted to run in a lower RPM like 1500rpm? The lines wouldn't intersect. Or does TDH decrease with lower RPMs where I would see it line up on the performance curve?
Yes both will decrease as you lower the RPM. Remember a pool can't survive on just filtration alone so it's not a good idea to run at those low RPM bc you will not get the circulation you need to move the chlorine around the pool. You can split high RPM with Low RPM.
@@swimmingpoolchemistrydoner5569 thank you. I was looking to maybe run on a higher speed for a couple hours a day and then lower speed to make up the rest of the GPM to turn the water over at least once per day (using the least electricity to accomplish it). I read that the longer you keep the water moving, even at low speeds, is better at preventing bacteria growth than if you are stagnant. Sound like a good plan or is it diminishing returns after like 8 hours a day? I'll have to see where things shake out once I measure the vacuum when I get the gauge in since I need around 30gpm optimally for my solar collectors.
Good starting point. Mustard Algae is a good sign of lack of circulation. Maintain 4 ppm chlorine, good circulation and filtration and you shouldn't get algae. If you do then you're missing one of those three.