DIY Spark Igniter for My Hit and Miss Model Engine Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- While waiting for my replacement ignition box from Banggood I built one myself borrowing the idea from Jan Ridders. For more info please check out ridders.nu or search "Blokker circuit". I will show you how I build mine and there must be hundreds other ways to do it. If you want to copy my way I am not responsible for any damages caused! Thank you for watching.
Exceptionally clear - very nice work. I'm sure nobody would mind if you spoke! :-)
Thanks. HeeHee :-P
Excellent video, very well explained.👍🙂
Hi, thanks. Part 2 posted.
thank you so much, sir.
Hi, you are welcome. Hope you found it useful.
Hello again, I’m hoping you can help me. The spark that is produced is not strong enough to sustain a running engine. I have had to reduce the spark plug gap and I can get it to run for maybe 3 or 4 pops but won’t keep running. How can I change the circuit to produce a stronger spark?
I have used your ignition design with a reed switch on two of my engines and it works great. I really appreciate your video showing how to make it. Very well done. My third engine, which I am in the process of building, keeps failing at the reed switch. The reed switch get stuck in the closed position. I have gone through about 3 or 4 reed switches. It appears the high voltage may be arching to the reed switch some how. I am curious if you have experienced this problem and have a solution or know how to fix the problem. Thanks in advance for any help or advice.
Hi Sir. First of all I'm pleased that you have found my video useful. I haven't had any problem with my reed switch so far and I play with my Hit and Miss engine fairly frequently. The reed switch is only handling a low voltage and a small current, it is not connected to the high voltage side of the circuit. As I have confessed to you before I only have very elementary electronic knowledge so this is just a suggestion, any high voltage being fed back to the reed switch is likely coming from the thyristor so how about changing the thyristor just to see. Thank you.
@@mylittlediesels Thanks for the quick reply. I just received materials for making three more ignition systems. I am really impressed with how well they work. I will be installing a new ignition system with all new components in the problem engine so that should show if it is the thyristor. I am also going to use a larger reed switch and insulate different, better from the engine. The reed switches I was burning out were very tiny, about 3/32" in dia. and 3/8" long. They would fail stuck in the closed position. Thanks again.
@@LeslieProper It would be educational, like your other videos, to show us what you are making!
@@mylittlediesels I plan to show it as soon as I get it running. My last 4- stroke engine was a horizontal, watercooled, hit and miss. This one is a vertical, aircooled, hit and miss.
@@LeslieProper That would be great and I'm looking forward to it. Thanks
Hello again, I have another question for you. I have two extra Blokker ignition circuits that have quit working. One has a weak spark, perhaps the coil went bad? The second has good spark, but only sparks once or twice and stops. If I turn the power off and back on it will spark once or twice and again stop. Perhaps this is a problem with the oscillator? They are so cheap and easy to make I don't mind if a few fail. However, if they can be fixed, I wouldn't mind fixing them. Thanks for your help.
Hello, I'm sorry to hear that, I assume they did work for a while. May I suggest the following but don't use the reed switch as trigger, solder a wire from the 470 ohm resistor and use it to touch the positive of the battery to trigger.
(1) To check oscillator is giving an output: connect the black probe of your multimeter (DC voltage) to battery negative, use the red probe measure the voltage at the cathode end of the diodes, you should get about 300 to 500 volts. If not, check PNP transitor, then fast recovery diode, then oscillator.
(2) To check for internal leakage of the HT side: connect to a spark plug before carrying this out, when triggered, do you hear arcing noise (not from the spark plug)? Do you see any sparks inside the coil? Do you see any sparks jumping across the legs of the HT capscitor? (did you seal the coil and HT capacitor with two-part epoxide?)
(3) Try using 3V or even 3.7V lithium instead of 1.5V,
(4) Replace the thyristor and see??
Please let me know the outcome.
By the way, the reed switch that I have been using ever since has got stuck but I think this is due to long service. I am working on using a hall sensor as a trigger; I managed to use it's output (LOW, almost zero V) to turn on a PNP transitor and from its collector I hopefully should get a positive pulse to trigger the thyristor.
@@mylittlediesels Hey it is no problem. Yes, they did work for a while. Thanks for the good suggestions. It will take me a few days to follow up and I will let you know what I find. The Blokken ignitors I purchased had the coils already incased in a clear plastic cylinder. I assume they had made an upgrade and it didn't look necessary to apply the epoxy. I assume you will post a video if you get the hall sensor to work. I will be watching for it.
@@LeslieProper Hello again, just to let you know I have worked out a circuit to use a Hall sensor as the trigger! It seems to be working so far without roasting any thing so you might want to have a look as it could solve your sticky reed switch problem :-) I have just posted the video.
Hello again. The output voltage from the oscillators, using a 1.5 volt AA battery, measured 180 volts on both of the defective ignitions. The one that was working intermittently seemed to work fine today and produced a good strong spark. The second produced a spark, but soon quit and I found that the oscillator was no longer working. I was unable to get it to work again so I assume that is my problem. I will see if I can find some replacement parts to trouble shoot, but I don't want to take them from one of my working engines. I will continue to fiddle with it when I have time just to see if I can find the problem.
@@LeslieProper Hello, I measured mine, 225 on 1.5V and 365 on 3V and roughly the same for the second one. If I were you I'd try : (1) use 2x AA batteries (2) eliminate dry joints, touch each joint with hot soldering gun and check for broken tracks (3) it's quite easy to do, remove oscillator and check for broken windings, there should be three sets, one about 2 ohm, one about 5 ohm and one about 60 ohms.
Can this circuit also be used to drive larger ignition coils?
I'm sorry I don't really know.
Hi, is it possible to use a points setup instead of a reed or micro switch? I am looking for ideas for an ignition system on a small model but I need to retain the points that is already built into the engine. Thanks
I'm sorry I don't know as I only copied the idea from Jan Ridders. Perhaps you can do to his website and find out.
@@mylittlediesels ok, thank you. I might just make one and experiment with it.
@@darrenfawcett9912 Yes, that's the best way and sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
👌👍
It seems that all of the MICE around the world are buying these engines! (Model Internal Combustion Engineers)
I always wanted a model engine that runs on petrol and this one fits the bill. I had problems with the supplied ignition box and I cooked two in no time at all. I bought a third one just to keep everything original but I am not using it. The DIY version works very well especailly it only required one 1.5V battery. I still run my engine almost everyday for a few minutes just for fun. Thanks. Oh, just found your channel and subscribed, great site!
will this work with a hall sensor
Hi, the short answer is I'm not sure as I only have very basic electronic knowledge. I suspect it will not work as my understanding is that the output of the hall effect sensor is negative, and in the circuit we need a positive pulse to trigger the thyristor ON to discharge the capacitor causing the magnetic field in the primary coil to collapse inducing a very high voltage in the secondary. Furthernore, hall effect sensors require 3v to 5v to work and the circuit runs from 1.5v. Instead of using a reed switch, a cam and a microswitch will also work. This is my understanding and I might be wrong.
@@mylittlediesels thanks for the quick response. I enjoyed your video.
Should it be possible - instead of a microswitch - to use a piezo crystal, it would be "whipped" by mechanics on the driver (a smaller glow plug motor about 1-2 cc) to be converted to petrol engine ...
It's being used in a petrol engine already.
@@mylittlediesels Thanks! Very interesting, is there any documentation on this?
@@parlundqvist1670 I got the idea from a gentleman called Jan Ridders, a prolific model engine builder. You can google his name or try this modelengineeringwebsite.com/Blokker_I_C_ignition.html
more,more....
Dimana beli electronic igniter nya sir
coba ini di ebay. Try this on eBay "Kitchen Electronic Gas Ignition Portable Lighter Burner Pulse Ignitor"
Hello sir, it's a request:🙏
Can you please make this circuit using mosquito racket circuit as it's more powerful and almost same circuit as they all are chinese product.
Actually, i am not an electrician and I tried it with 1.5 v lighter but my lighter circuit is a bit different so I could not make this and also some of the components are not available here even on Amazon in my place.
Please see if you can make using mosquito racket circuit and make the same easy video like this one.. thank you in advance.
Hi, thank you for your interest. After reading your message I went to buy a mosquito zapper from Poundland (yes, costs £1) and reverse-engineered the circuit. You are right! The ciruit is similar but not because they are all Chinese product as you said, but they both use the "joule thief" free running oscillation circuit to generate a high voltage. So theorectically it is possible to build the circuit above, but I won't be testing it for you bacause all you have to do is to indentify the fast recovery diode and then copy the circuit above from there. You still have to buy a few compoents like the thyristor, high voltage capacitor and transformer, all those are available from eBay.
@@mylittlediesels Thank you very much for reply and giving this information about the circuit, especially after buying it just on my request. I will buy the required components and try to make it. Your information is definitely going to help me. Thanks again.
@@kapilsethi8054 Hi, well, since I have bought the mosquito bat so I thought I might give it a go as you requested. Just finished and posted it, have a look!
@@mylittlediesels hey! Thanks a ton, you just did amazing work. Thank you for fulfill my request. ☺
Why did you change the circuit? Is not powerful enough? Thanks
Hi, thanks for your interest. I take it you meant the circuit I built in part 2. That one, according to the inventer Jan Ridders, is an improved version. Both work fine and in fact I am still using the first version, I run my engine almost everyday for half an hour or so. The original ignition box supplied didn't last long, I went through two even though I earthed the engine block to the battery negative terminal.
@@mylittlediesels My question was why don´t you use the original spark ignitor without any modification? Isn´t powerful enough to spark the engine plug?
@@a330turbinex7 Oh I see what you meant. The original ignition box supplied with the engine didn't last very long. I went through two more even though I connected the engine block to the battery negative terminal (earthing it) asa advised by many ebayers. Some resort to buying a different ignition system like the Minimagneto unit which can be costly. The circuits desgined by Jan Ridders are easy and cheap to build and they work on my engine. I hope this answers your query. Thank you.
@@a330turbinex7 Oh I am so sorry I think I misunderstood your question again. The modification has two purposes, one, like you said, is to make the spark more powerful by changing the capacitor to a high value. Second, is to change the repeating sparks to a single spark when activated. You only want one single spark just before TDC to ignite the fuel mixture, not a series of sparks.
@@mylittlediesels Have you tried using a cigarret lighter? It uses a 3.7 battery...