You know... I own and drive a Silverado... and the idea that it could possibly do what THIS Silverado does is just SO TEMPTING!! I love this project... thanks for sharing it with us.
Yeah, 2012 1500 got me into cars. Seems boring, but loud fun is the best fun lol. Rainy nights and empty parking lots go great with spinning tires, as well as all of winterXD
So happy you're going back to full exhaust! Now get that super sweet interior back in there! You worked so hard on it! Glad you're making it a street truck again
Awesome! I'm glad you're going back to a full exhaust. I've been following the build since it started, great work and loads of success with the business as well.
After watching this video, I'm confident HP is not going to be your problem, but traction is. You're going to need 0-60 times around 1.42 which will be a challenge on factory sized tires/rims. In comparison, your fastest run to date had your 60ft times around the 1.72-1.75 mark. If your wanting to go faster It's probably time to modify the bed for wider tires. Ps: I love the idea of returning to a sleeper theme.
Us normal guys working in our garages- "Damn, I wish I had a lift..." LT, a man who literally owns his own shop filled with lifts- " I think I'll lay on the ground and work of jack stands today..."
Really excited for this - very interested to see what you find when you pull the engine apart given the amount of boost you've been pushing through this. Hopefully the extra revs don't lead to the engine coming apart once you get it to rev out!! Is the rotating assembly balanced?
Finally! L8T content. I want to replace to old 4.8/4l60e in my Silverado and like the gen5 stuff. I’ve been waiting for people to work out all the stuff needed to make the swap. 6.6/6l90e
I figured it was a Gen V 6.6L because of the mechanical fan. Can't wait to see what you put that in. I understand putting the exhaust back on the UT, how about a cut out on the down pipe for the track?
Fun fact. Due to condensation buildup in the intercooler there’s a slight risk of hydro locking your engine. The smaller the engine and the bigger the cooler and the cooler the climate the bigger the risk. If the risk is high fit a petcock, also a sight glass can be helpful.
If your pulling the heads off, you might as well pull the pistons out and gap them for boost. If you doing this then if would also only make sense to replace the rod bearings as well. Thanks for the video and looking forward to more.
Ring gapping and new bearing stock parts means they ARE still "stock" my two cents buy a set of bigger valves (titanium preferably) and recut the valve seat. The only difference in Raylar's bigger and smaller heads are the valves. Porting or polishing stock heads is a waste of time as the casting is too thin, and make maybe 20 horsepower. But bigger valves give more flow and CAN go in easy, IF one knows how to do a valve job anyway. Bigger valves compliment the bigger cam and as the valve springs change with the cam why not pull and recut valve seats bigger. It would be interesting to see the gains from Raylar big head sized valves in a stock iron head. I bet it flows VERY similar. He could also run the plastic Raylar intake(many four cylinder vehicles use plastic intakes) he has for some free power, or electrify the acc belt to decrease torque leaching. He is however, busy building a new to him autoshop, and running a RUclips channel. I highly doubt prototyping is in his future, shows only show what they know works. No one wants the "it didn't work for me what's wrong?" conversations. He is, in fact, in business doing installation. Not much business in the unproven, and less in failure. Look at the frame welds he just had to fix. I just hope he doesn't pop the motor or get hurt when it quits.
2:38 it’s definitely a gen V LT engine but I’d be guessing on the displacement. Is it the l8T 6.6? Only guess it’s the HD truck version because of the mechanical fan as I can’t really see if it’s an iron or aluminum block
Nice work. Can't wait to see the 8.1 with a cam that revs. Might want to turn down the boost in the lower revs with a progressive boost controller. Peak torque is what kills rods. If you can keep the peak torque down a bit from kill mode, but at a higher rpm, you'll make brutal hp in the upper range without a windowed block. Can't wait to see more. With the unmolested fender, my OG ugly truck shirt will match the look again. Temporarily. Lol
LT question. When does the 4-inch exhaust become a restriction on a turbo application. 5.3 turbo. When do you have to step up to a full 5in exhaust vs. 4in exhaust
Well in theory putting any kinda exhaust on you vehicle is considered a restriction hence why all race/drag cars/trucks run headers or zoomies only. In short though this would be a very hard question to answer as you didn't give the HP. You could have a turbo d 5.3 making 600HP and 3 inch would be fine or you could have a 2,000 to 3,000HP needing a 4 or 5 inch pipe. So again your HP would need to be known for a proper answer.
If your on the hunt for a truck capable of 9.99 (maybe even faster) you should be looking at the Current track rules for this class. For example, at one time the rules shared 2014 - 2022 OEM Production Cars - 9.99 (6.39 1/8) - 9.00 (5.65 1/8) 2014-Current OEM model-year production cars are permitted to run no quicker than 9.00 (*5.65 eighth mile).and/or faster than 150 mph. • NHRA Level 6C license is required for drivers running quicker than 9.99 (*6.39 eighth mile) and slower than 9.00 (*5.65 eight mile) or faster than 135 mph or slower than 150 mph). Required to wear: • a minimum SFI 3.2A/1 jacket • full-length pants (no shorts) • closed shoes (no open-toe or open heel-shoes or sandals) • socks and a helmet. See NHRA General Regulations 10:7 for helmet requirements. Required Unaltered OEM • antilock brakes must be functioning as per manufacturer’s specifications. • airbag functions must be functioning as per manufacturer’s specifications. (non OEM rollbars that would impede OEM Airbag functions prohibited) stock frame\unibody construction, including floors and firewall, as well as all other OEM safety related systems, must be functioning as per manufacturer’s specifications. • Tires used may be other than OEM, but they must be DOT-approved. .................... For vehicles which didnt fit this class due to age, there were these considerations 9.99 seconds (6.39 1/8th) - 8.50 seconds (5.45 1/8) • NHRA Chassis Certification • NHRA Competition License adequate for speed and et • Minimum 8 point roll cage • SFI Jacket & Pants 3.2A/5 (multi - layer) • SFI Neck Collar & Gloves 3.3/1 • Full Face Helmet meeting Snell 2015 or later • Parachute at 150 MPH You dont wish to be sent home from the track for not being properly prepared.
I can tell you're not used to having a lift available to work on. I lost my mind when you were using a jack and jack stands while taking up a bay with a lift! You have the tools now, use them!
@lt lawrence why didn't you mention "tierods" solution to the 8.1l motor mount issue? To all....the 8.1l is known to pull the glue holding the metal halves of the motor mounts apart. This causes a very noticeable lifting and sitting of the engine. This happens pretty often to the 8.1l. The permanent solution, other the the awesome but over priced poly mounts, is to drill a 3/8 hole through the mount from plate to plate run a bolt and torque to 45/55lbs. Works with used old mounts as well as new ones. Many people had the problem of separation with brand new mounts. At 400$ for poly mounts, thats just way too much cash, yes they are way better designed but the price point is simply ridiculous.10$ and 4 hours of wrestling is just a better solution for most.
I'd love to see it dynoed after with the stock and then aftermarket intake. See how much of a restriction it is at that power level. Is it still getting a Holley?
As a diesel guy, I wonder if a large diesel charge air cooler, like a Banks Techni Cooler, would fit in the old gas truck. PS - I like the idea of the full exhaust sleeper. Well, at least until they hear it. LOL
How are you getting away with running faster than 11.50 1/4 mile, without having a cage? Usually tracks will kick you out immediately, due to insurance regulations.
I'm thinking while the heads are off you just as well take them to the machine shop get the vavles ground and have them check for sloppe vavle guides. I'm thinking good insurance. Anyway it's just good insurance that engine performs even better than it has in the past. Here is an instance it pays off. My had this Dodge Dart from the 1960 not totally sure what year it was but it was 1 of the big body darts with 318 my friend had a blown head gasket so we tore it apart Scraped the top of the block the heads as well it was so clean you could eat off of it so we put it back Torque everything down put new oil and filter and it ran really bad we don't know what happened so a week later we took it all apart took the heads in had them grind the vavles and put new vavle springs in and we went down picked up the heads brought home and put them back on did we on the 1st time of re-torc the heads down got new oil it started and it was really quiet engine and when you put on gas pedal it moved maybe even better than it did before. So hope you didn't get bored with I said and good luck with your project.
I love this truck!
you just keep showing up everywhere hahhahaa. loved the stuff with the donut guys
@@silvajay6443😢😮yo
You know... I own and drive a Silverado... and the idea that it could possibly do what THIS Silverado does is just SO TEMPTING!! I love this project... thanks for sharing it with us.
Yeah, 2012 1500 got me into cars. Seems boring, but loud fun is the best fun lol. Rainy nights and empty parking lots go great with spinning tires, as well as all of winterXD
So good to see the ugly truck back getting work done on the show. Always my favorite.
Man it must be nice having help again!
So happy you're going back to full exhaust! Now get that super sweet interior back in there! You worked so hard on it! Glad you're making it a street truck again
Awesome! I'm glad you're going back to a full exhaust. I've been following the build since it started, great work and loads of success with the business as well.
After watching this video, I'm confident HP is not going to be your problem, but traction is. You're going to need 0-60 times around 1.42 which will be a challenge on factory sized tires/rims. In comparison, your fastest run to date had your 60ft times around the 1.72-1.75 mark. If your wanting to go faster It's probably time to modify the bed for wider tires. Ps: I love the idea of returning to a sleeper theme.
Loving this build. Seen every episode so far 🔥🔥🔥
Us normal guys working in our garages- "Damn, I wish I had a lift..."
LT, a man who literally owns his own shop filled with lifts- " I think I'll lay on the ground and work of jack stands today..."
Really excited for this - very interested to see what you find when you pull the engine apart given the amount of boost you've been pushing through this. Hopefully the extra revs don't lead to the engine coming apart once you get it to rev out!! Is the rotating assembly balanced?
Finally! L8T content. I want to replace to old 4.8/4l60e in my Silverado and like the gen5 stuff. I’ve been waiting for people to work out all the stuff needed to make the swap. 6.6/6l90e
Big shop, lifts, still slumming it rolling around on the ground yanking transmissions. Very monk like. I approve.
Glad you are putting exhaust to the back again. I was going to say what you said in hard to be a sleeper with exhaust coming out of fender.
Cant wait for more! Keep up the great work!
Looking forward to the teardown footage!
#UglyTruck is finally getting some love!! Pumped up like a pair of 90's kicks!
Can’t wait for the tear down!
Full exhaust.. Bravo!! Sleeper mode engaged...
Greetings from the farm in S Carolina!!
You had me worried at 9:45 when the trani was coming down. Even though you couldn't hear me, I told you to watch your fingers😂
Man I love your truck because it's so unique.
Can’t wait to see what happens next! I would love to see the inside of that engine after all that boost.
Your video editing and production is getting much better. Keep it up.
I figured it was a Gen V 6.6L because of the mechanical fan. Can't wait to see what you put that in. I understand putting the exhaust back on the UT, how about a cut out on the down pipe for the track?
Man I prayed for those rockers caps to hold on glad they did😂
Only one complaint LT.....wished your vids were longer !!!
Fun fact.
Due to condensation buildup in the intercooler there’s a slight risk of hydro locking your engine.
The smaller the engine and the bigger the cooler and the cooler the climate the bigger the risk.
If the risk is high fit a petcock, also a sight glass can be helpful.
If your pulling the heads off, you might as well pull the pistons out and gap them for boost. If you doing this then if would also only make sense to replace the rod bearings as well. Thanks for the video and looking forward to more.
He’s already building a stroker. He’s trying to stay stock bottom end.
Ring gapping and new bearing stock parts means they ARE still "stock" my two cents buy a set of bigger valves (titanium preferably) and recut the valve seat. The only difference in Raylar's bigger and smaller heads are the valves. Porting or polishing stock heads is a waste of time as the casting is too thin, and make maybe 20 horsepower. But bigger valves give more flow and CAN go in easy, IF one knows how to do a valve job anyway. Bigger valves compliment the bigger cam and as the valve springs change with the cam why not pull and recut valve seats bigger. It would be interesting to see the gains from Raylar big head sized valves in a stock iron head. I bet it flows VERY similar. He could also run the plastic Raylar intake(many four cylinder vehicles use plastic intakes) he has for some free power, or electrify the acc belt to decrease torque leaching. He is however, busy building a new to him autoshop, and running a RUclips channel. I highly doubt prototyping is in his future, shows only show what they know works. No one wants the "it didn't work for me what's wrong?" conversations. He is, in fact, in business doing installation. Not much business in the unproven, and less in failure. Look at the frame welds he just had to fix. I just hope he doesn't pop the motor or get hurt when it quits.
Man I can't wait to see the tear down process. Great content!!!!
LT, love your channel very much. Advice for the channel: try to match the volumes of your vlogs vs the races.
2:38 it’s definitely a gen V LT engine but I’d be guessing on the displacement. Is it the l8T 6.6? Only guess it’s the HD truck version because of the mechanical fan as I can’t really see if it’s an iron or aluminum block
Cant Wait for more nice work ❤️👍
Can't wait to see how it goes
Two points for Nick on the fender
let the fun begin
14:27 that's an interesting engine. It could be the next junkyard king.
Nice work. Can't wait to see the 8.1 with a cam that revs. Might want to turn down the boost in the lower revs with a progressive boost controller. Peak torque is what kills rods. If you can keep the peak torque down a bit from kill mode, but at a higher rpm, you'll make brutal hp in the upper range without a windowed block.
Can't wait to see more. With the unmolested fender, my OG ugly truck shirt will match the look again. Temporarily. Lol
I believe with you turning the wrenchs, anything is possible
LT question. When does the 4-inch exhaust become a restriction on a turbo application. 5.3 turbo. When do you have to step up to a full 5in exhaust vs. 4in exhaust
Well in theory putting any kinda exhaust on you vehicle is considered a restriction hence why all race/drag cars/trucks run headers or zoomies only. In short though this would be a very hard question to answer as you didn't give the HP. You could have a turbo d 5.3 making 600HP and 3 inch would be fine or you could have a 2,000 to 3,000HP needing a 4 or 5 inch pipe. So again your HP would need to be known for a proper answer.
When the pressure ratio exceeds the ratio intended for the design of that turbo housing.
LT, you have to get that air filter out of the engine compartment. Cool
LT, we need longer videos again! 😂
If your on the hunt for a truck capable of 9.99 (maybe even faster) you should be looking at the Current track rules for this class.
For example, at one time the rules shared
2014 - 2022 OEM Production Cars - 9.99 (6.39 1/8) - 9.00 (5.65 1/8)
2014-Current OEM model-year production cars are permitted to run no quicker than 9.00 (*5.65 eighth
mile).and/or faster than 150 mph.
• NHRA Level 6C license is required for drivers running quicker than 9.99 (*6.39 eighth mile) and
slower than 9.00 (*5.65 eight mile) or faster than 135 mph or slower than 150 mph).
Required to wear:
• a minimum SFI 3.2A/1 jacket
• full-length pants (no shorts)
• closed shoes (no open-toe or open heel-shoes or sandals)
• socks and a helmet.
See NHRA General Regulations 10:7 for helmet requirements.
Required
Unaltered OEM
• antilock brakes must be functioning as per manufacturer’s specifications.
• airbag functions must be functioning as per manufacturer’s specifications.
(non OEM rollbars that would impede OEM Airbag functions prohibited)
stock frame\unibody construction, including floors and firewall, as well as all other OEM safety
related systems, must be functioning as per manufacturer’s specifications.
• Tires used may be other than OEM, but they must be DOT-approved.
....................
For vehicles which didnt fit this class due to age, there were these considerations
9.99 seconds (6.39 1/8th) - 8.50 seconds (5.45 1/8)
• NHRA Chassis Certification
• NHRA Competition License adequate for speed and et
• Minimum 8 point roll cage
• SFI Jacket & Pants 3.2A/5 (multi - layer)
• SFI Neck Collar & Gloves 3.3/1
• Full Face Helmet meeting Snell 2015 or later
• Parachute at 150 MPH
You dont wish to be sent home from the track for not being properly prepared.
Hate and love getting here 5 mins after u post video cuz now I can’t watch the tear down right after you get it out the truck 😂
I’m betting that the inside of that engine looks surgically clean.
Can’t wait to see what the inside looks like
Woo-hoo more 8.1 content
Man I’m glad ur back making ugly truck videos. Can wait to see more
The copo truck with this engine setup would have been nice. I can't help but miss that truck. I think you missed an opportunity there.
I can tell you're not used to having a lift available to work on. I lost my mind when you were using a jack and jack stands while taking up a bay with a lift! You have the tools now, use them!
I think ARP head studs and gaskets would be a good investment.
9.99 is my goal for my rcsb 4wd 5.3 truck. Been 10.4 so far on Michelin 265 street tires with a weak launch.
LT could i talk you into Bonneville speed week. what you're building is perfect for the salt.
Ought to put some rods and light pistons in it
Lt you should fire whoever cut that fender for exhaust 😁
I cursed 🤬 my phone when the exhaust was done that way 🤪
ive been looking at the L8T . seems like a good engine for boost
I love what you are doing with the 8.1 just wondering if you were going to check/ add some ring gap while you have it apart???
Would love to put that turbo setup on my ‘01 8.1 2500 HD 4x4!
@lt lawrence why didn't you mention "tierods" solution to the 8.1l motor mount issue? To all....the 8.1l is known to pull the glue holding the metal halves of the motor mounts apart. This causes a very noticeable lifting and sitting of the engine. This happens pretty often to the 8.1l. The permanent solution, other the the awesome but over priced poly mounts, is to drill a 3/8 hole through the mount from plate to plate run a bolt and torque to 45/55lbs. Works with used old mounts as well as new ones. Many people had the problem of separation with brand new mounts. At 400$ for poly mounts, thats just way too much cash, yes they are way better designed but the price point is simply ridiculous.10$ and 4 hours of wrestling is just a better solution for most.
I'd love to see it dynoed after with the stock and then aftermarket intake. See how much of a restriction it is at that power level.
Is it still getting a Holley?
you really should do something about that hot air intake filter
2:38 First name: El; Middle name: Eight; Last name: Tee
Got a 4.8 thats pushing 200k and 5.3 with 120k. Would you recommend working on the 4.8 or the 5.3?
The 4.8 will require more attention Sooner than the 5.3, use the 5.3 as a daily for now
Ya both need cam and turbo
Does the new cam use the ls firing order or the previous bbc firing order ?
Bad Azz 🤙🏻
What tires size do you have on it ?
Im confused, why you have the lift there and are using jack stands?
What intercooler is that
Why are you not using the lift?
Much needed upgrade?...the whole truck has been upgraded 😂👌
As a diesel guy, I wonder if a large diesel charge air cooler, like a Banks Techni Cooler, would fit in the old gas truck.
PS - I like the idea of the full exhaust sleeper. Well, at least until they hear it. LOL
Chevy Power baby, love my bowties.
Pleeeeease tell me that engine on the pallet is for the Morrvair 😉
That would be a good swap for it
You’re going to be in low 9s after these upgrades without a problem imo.
Why not do the Raylar type mods to your factory intake,it should flow much better.
Looks like a L84 from the newer trucks
How are you getting away with running faster than 11.50 1/4 mile, without having a cage? Usually tracks will kick you out immediately, due to insurance regulations.
I'm thinking while the heads are off you just as well take them to the machine shop get the vavles ground and have them check for sloppe vavle guides. I'm thinking good insurance. Anyway it's just good insurance that engine performs even better than it has in the past. Here is an instance it pays off. My had this Dodge Dart from the 1960 not totally sure what year it was but it was 1 of the big body darts with 318 my friend had a blown head gasket so we tore it apart Scraped the top of the block the heads as well it was so clean you could eat off of it so we put it back Torque everything down put new oil and filter and it ran really bad we don't know what happened so a week later we took it all apart took the heads in had them grind the vavles and put new vavle springs in and we went down picked up the heads brought home and put them back on did we on the 1st time of re-torc the heads down got new oil it started and it was really quiet engine and when you put on gas pedal it moved maybe even better than it did before. So hope you didn't get bored with I said and good luck with your project.
Chevys always have the floating valve issue try to conical springs.
🔥🔥🔥🔥
pretty soon the ugly truck is gonna want an hx82 based wimer or a 102mm gt55
When you have THAT much torque, stock motor mounts aren't enough. Those were probably designed for under 400 ft pounds.
Extra ring gap, if you haven't open it up already.
Since 9.99 et is the goal, are you going to be putting in a roll cage?
Told you not to do a greasy fender exit. Flush hood exit or out the back only sir.
Dedication using a floor jack instead of the 2 post lift.
Lol… my lift was down for service and waiting on parts so it was the old fashioned way
6.6L L8T with a Whipple supercharger = 700 pound-feet of torque. Now we are talking :)
700 is nothing to what the ugly truck makes
I'm out here in Las Vegas and I'm building my 02 silverado engine wear can i get a good engine dyno shop
Good thing abt building a truck , won’t lose no parts in the bed
If you want more RPM's, change the crankshaft.
Nope, changing the valve train along with the cam is what’s necessary.
So I assume they kicked you off the track at that speed?
I think may need bigger fuel pump/rail with bigger injectors
Going to gap the rings?
Is that a L8T 6.6L?
I was right!!! YAYYYA!!!!
Yup. I was thinking 6.6 gas
Ok a Gen 5 LS Based LT 400CID engine that's another ECU and harness change.
Is that new 6.6?
Can I have that turbo piping kit? I just got an 04 8.1 2500HD lol
Why don’t you rack up the truck on the lift?
are you gonna gap the rings?
I bet the 8.1 is very efficient... At making torque lol
Lt truck engine 👀
Elephants foot……chernobyl stuff under the reactor
Looks like an L8T sitting over there.... (EDIT: I didn't wait until the end of the video to post that, whoops!)