I’m really enjoying all your build and watching them avidly. Loved the Arizona build and superb work. I note that you mentioned that you use enamel paints. Is this still case and do you have a preference? 🏴
Missed you! Enjoyed your build of the Titanic, and I'm looking forward to your build of the Enterprise. I have the Tamiya 1/300 scale of CVN-65 in my lineup. I will probably learn a thing or two watching you build this one.
For my 2¢, you nailed the bow bulb. For oilcanning, while carving is visceral, paint shading may be more productive. USN WWII portholes are thorny. Navy Department ordered portholes to be welded over so that the glass could not reflect over ocean distances. Some ships just painted over the glass rather than weld plate. Painted glass lites could be opened for ventilation in the heat of the equatorial Pacific, so, you makes you bets and roll your dice. Photos will start as many arguments as finish them.
Just rewatching this Ben and it occurred to me that instead of styrene strips, it would be interesting to use copper tape. This can easily be scribed to simulate plating lines or “tin canning”.
The extra styrene work to make the bow more bulbous came out really well. I do agree with you too that the hull strips to show plating are a little too pronounced at the moment and need more thinning out to be authentic. I'm sure the hull will look fantastic when this work is completed. I look forward to your next video.
Ben, this is very cool. I'm looking forward to this build. Amazing ship. Yeah, the new hull plates are a bit thick, but I love the idea and where you are going with them. More sanding and I think you'll have it. I've been watching other builders, including the Norwegian builder working on the same ship. You referenced him some time back. You guys are both VERY good at what you do and present a very nice mix of review, building, talking, and "This is what I did off-line but I'm showing you the results now." Please don't change the mix. I learn a lot as you build and show the actual construction. I've seen a couple other builders who talk and talk and talk, then show the results of off-line work, but never actually show anything else. Not much to learn from there. Please stick with your format. Again, well done and I'm looking forward to this build.
This is going to be a great build, Ben! I think the hull looks great. Thanks for the power strip review. I'm building an HO layout and that is exactly what I need.
Ben, I really enjoy al the attention to detail that you do. This is going to be a massive ship when you get her finished. Looking forward to the voyage from start to finish. Maybe KGM Graf Zeppelin next?
Great video Ben and look forward to the build and your Titanic once it's done. Thanks for the recommendation on the power strip. Needed one for my model bench as well so figured I give this one a try.
I would say it is a great start Ben! Those KA scuttles will cover the oval shape of those portholes, I did that on my build. I agree that those plates are a bit too proud, but a bit of sanding will help as you say, and maybe some areas could benefit from being levelled out a bit. Have you evaluated some soldering lead for the degaussing lines? That might just do the trick. Looking forward to the next one. Regards Kenneth
I’ve thought about it but I found a pack of styrene rod in my drawer that’s 0.020” thick. It should be prefect. So I had my local hobby shop order some more and I’m hoping it shows up tomorrow. It’s so thin, it droops like a wire and it looks almost exactly the same size as the reference pics I have.
Suggest a new product for you for jobs like reshaping your bow. Free Form Air sculpting dough from Smooth On. It’s a two part apoxie type product that is so light, it floats in water after it has cured. It’s a 50/50 mix and you use water to lube your hands and tools to manipulate it to a smoothness leaving very little sanding. Cleans up with water, sands like a dream, NO shrinkage, and cures in about 4 hours.
Just building the Hornet, one of Enterprises sister class ships and will build Enterprise in parallel as they were for the Doolittle Raid, mid 1942. Will be quite a sight side by side.
Ben, great start. I've got the kit, too, and am looking forward to following along with your build. Not sure about Pontos vs KA ... and not sure I can afford both :). Question -- since the hull isn't marked, how are you determining where the water line is??? Thanks.
If you are not having fun you are not doing it right. Also, in N scale (1:160) model railroading we have what we call the Two-Foot Rule. If it looks good at two feet, there is no need to go further. Don't count rivets. :D
I'm doing this exact build with the KA and Pontos PE. I was working on the hull plating lines and I was wondering how you got them so straight. I thought I could measure the spacing in the middle point of the hull and just draw lines down the sides but it doesn't work as it approaches the box and stern, ie. they spread apart.
Yep. That happens because the hull is curved. You have to fist tape or fix something to the bottom of the hull so that it stays level. Then you need to use a pencil and something for marking the water line to make all of the line. I use this marking gauge from Menards that holds the pencil for me and then I just move it along the table. So the pencil remains level, it just moves in and out from the hull as it curves. When you’re finished, all of the lines appear level.
I love the work you do on these models, and I wish you showed an E-mail address to ask you questions ... so here it goes, I have one of the old Revell models, The Wind Class Eastwind, and I am not sure about what scale it is, but I will be removing the ugy modeled in Railings around the model, where do you suggest I find small PE railings?
Hey Ben, so happy to see this build is starting. I love this ship and this channel. You may want to look into getting the book, USS Enterprise (CV-6) by Steve Ewing. It's an absolutely awesome photo reference and it tells the whole history of the ship
Couple of things to be aware of. The fit on some of the kit parts is not very good. Also, the Pontos instructions have incorrect part numbers. All part of the fun.
Building the Yorktown the forward elevator walls will not fit if you fallow the instructions i fit it it to the bow upper deck it fit perfect however the front part of the bow had a gap so sanding will be required for it
4:10 from what I can see in Navy Archive photos, they were in place as late as March/April '42 but removed sometime later. www.navsource.org/archives/02/020643.jpg
Brilliant work.
I’m really enjoying all your build and watching them avidly. Loved the Arizona build and superb work. I note that you mentioned that you use enamel paints. Is this still case and do you have a preference? 🏴
Yes and no. It’s still my preference but I’m having more trouble getting them these days. So I’ll throw Life Color and AK into the mix.
many thanks
Missed you! Enjoyed your build of the Titanic, and I'm looking forward to your build of the Enterprise. I have the Tamiya 1/300 scale of CVN-65 in my lineup. I will probably learn a thing or two watching you build this one.
Looks great Ben.. I've been anxiously awaiting this build . 18:15
For my 2¢, you nailed the bow bulb.
For oilcanning, while carving is visceral, paint shading may be more productive.
USN WWII portholes are thorny. Navy Department ordered portholes to be welded over so that the glass could not reflect over ocean distances. Some ships just painted over the glass rather than weld plate. Painted glass lites could be opened for ventilation in the heat of the equatorial Pacific, so, you makes you bets and roll your dice. Photos will start as many arguments as finish them.
Just rewatching this Ben and it occurred to me that instead of styrene strips, it would be interesting to use copper tape. This can easily be scribed to simulate plating lines or “tin canning”.
Oh that’s a great idea! The real issue I had was getting it thin enough.
The extra styrene work to make the bow more bulbous came out really well. I do agree with you too that the hull strips to show plating are a little too pronounced at the moment and need more thinning out to be authentic. I'm sure the hull will look fantastic when this work is completed. I look forward to your next video.
This is the build I've been looking forward to the most. Good Luck, Ben.
Glad to see you are building the Enterprise CV6 thanks for sharing
Yay!!! My 2nd most favorite ship!! Awesome Ben, looking forward to this build sir! I Believe your on the right path with her hull.
Ben, this is very cool. I'm looking forward to this build. Amazing ship. Yeah, the new hull plates are a bit thick, but I love the idea and where you are going with them. More sanding and I think you'll have it.
I've been watching other builders, including the Norwegian builder working on the same ship. You referenced him some time back. You guys are both VERY good at what you do and present a very nice mix of review, building, talking, and "This is what I did off-line but I'm showing you the results now." Please don't change the mix. I learn a lot as you build and show the actual construction. I've seen a couple other builders who talk and talk and talk, then show the results of off-line work, but never actually show anything else. Not much to learn from there. Please stick with your format.
Again, well done and I'm looking forward to this build.
Off to a great start! Looking forward to this one.
As you might have noticed, there is a Knuckle, that goes around from the top of the Forecastle, from Port to Starboard on the Yorktown Class Carriers.
This is going to be a great build, Ben! I think the hull looks great. Thanks for the power strip review. I'm building an HO layout and that is exactly what I need.
Great start Ben., looking forward for the start. Panel lines really help the hull.
Looks great Ben
Ben, I really enjoy al the attention to detail that you do. This is going to be a massive ship when you get her finished. Looking forward to the voyage from start to finish. Maybe KGM Graf Zeppelin next?
Great video Ben and look forward to the build and your Titanic once it's done. Thanks for the recommendation on the power strip. Needed one for my model bench as well so figured I give this one a try.
Awesome! I really like mine. Hope it serves you well.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Thanks figured I need one and I'd give it a try.
Awesome work 👍
I would say it is a great start Ben! Those KA scuttles will cover the oval shape of those portholes, I did that on my build. I agree that those plates are a bit too proud, but a bit of sanding will help as you say, and maybe some areas could benefit from being levelled out a bit. Have you evaluated some soldering lead for the degaussing lines? That might just do the trick. Looking forward to the next one. Regards Kenneth
I’ve thought about it but I found a pack of styrene rod in my drawer that’s 0.020” thick. It should be prefect. So I had my local hobby shop order some more and I’m hoping it shows up tomorrow. It’s so thin, it droops like a wire and it looks almost exactly the same size as the reference pics I have.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Looking forward to seeing the result 😄
Me too!!!
Great to see you and a new builds 💪💪🙏🙏💞💞🍺🇺🇸🇺🇸
Great video👍
Hey Ben, for your wire on the sides, try Tichy Train Group various sized wire. I use it a lot on my builds.
Suggest a new product for you for jobs like reshaping your bow.
Free Form Air sculpting dough from Smooth On. It’s a two part apoxie type product that is so light, it floats in water after it has cured.
It’s a 50/50 mix and you use water to lube your hands and tools to manipulate it to a smoothness leaving very little sanding.
Cleans up with water, sands like a dream, NO shrinkage, and cures in about 4 hours.
I think you are off to a great start!
Just building the Hornet, one of Enterprises sister class ships and will build Enterprise in parallel as they were for the Doolittle Raid, mid 1942. Will be quite a sight side by side.
Ben, great start. I've got the kit, too, and am looking forward to following along with your build. Not sure about Pontos vs KA ... and not sure I can afford both :). Question -- since the hull isn't marked, how are you determining where the water line is??? Thanks.
I’m using reference photos and my eyes 😉
Lol - that's what I'm doing, too!
Great new build video ben ,are you throwing some led's in her
I think so. I wants a little light in the hanger deck.
Looks so much better at the bow but I see what you mean about plating. That said what you've done is tonnes better.
If you are not having fun you are not doing it right. Also, in N scale (1:160) model railroading we have what we call the Two-Foot Rule. If it looks good at two feet, there is no need to go further. Don't count rivets. :D
I'm doing this exact build with the KA and Pontos PE. I was working on the hull plating lines and I was wondering how you got them so straight. I thought I could measure the spacing in the middle point of the hull and just draw lines down the sides but it doesn't work as it approaches the box and stern, ie. they spread apart.
Yep. That happens because the hull is curved. You have to fist tape or fix something to the bottom of the hull so that it stays level. Then you need to use a pencil and something for marking the water line to make all of the line. I use this marking gauge from Menards that holds the pencil for me and then I just move it along the table. So the pencil remains level, it just moves in and out from the hull as it curves. When you’re finished, all of the lines appear level.
What about using soldering wire for the degaussing cable?
I hope you're aware of the USS Enterprise's air group had the TBF Avengers during the November 1942
Yes, there are a few in my KA kit.
@@TheMidwestModelShop I have the KA kit also and I didn't see anything that indicated the TBF Avengers. The details are for the TBDs
Well if they don’t exist, then they can’t be included. Unless someone 3D prints them out there.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Try shapeway models, I saw that they 3D printed 1/700th scale TBF Avengers
I love the work you do on these models, and I wish you showed an E-mail address to ask you questions ... so here it goes, I have one of the old Revell models, The Wind Class Eastwind, and I am not sure about what scale it is, but I will be removing the ugy modeled in Railings around the model, where do you suggest I find small PE railings?
TheMidwestModelShop@gmail.com
Hey Ben, so happy to see this build is starting. I love this ship and this channel. You may want to look into getting the book, USS Enterprise (CV-6) by Steve Ewing. It's an absolutely awesome photo reference and it tells the whole history of the ship
how about fishing line or flush as the degaussing lines
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Just for your information, 'Gauss' rhymes with 'house'.
Letsssss goooooo !!!
Video #4???
Couple of things to be aware of. The fit on some of the kit parts is not very good. Also, the Pontos instructions have incorrect part numbers. All part of the fun.
I figured as much. Thanks for the heads up!!!
Building the Yorktown the forward elevator walls will not fit if you fallow the instructions i fit it it to the bow upper deck it fit perfect however the front part of the bow had a gap so sanding will be required for it
WOW! I-666))))
As usual, a lot of talking and almost nothing to show.
Sorry. I just don’t do color by number any more 🤷🏻♂️.
Who cares he s a great teacher and u learn a lot and a lot of enjoy it if you don't then don't watch him simple
4:10 from what I can see in Navy Archive photos, they were in place as late as March/April '42 but removed sometime later. www.navsource.org/archives/02/020643.jpg