Thanks for sharing! Alot of what I do is because of convenience In regards to the Beetle Blaster traps: they do work but do become propolized and I find beetles hide under the wings of traps. The Red entrance reducers Molly showed will strip pollen off the corbicula of your foragers. In the Beetle jail, reusable traps: I put cider vinegar in bait section and mineral oil in the sides ( vegetable oil becomes rancid here). It is essential you place them between side of box and first frame. And like you said, a ground drench is in extreme situations. Remember: strong colonies in full sun are your best defense! It is really essential to practice bio security. I have brought cut outs into an apiary in the past and have caused some massive infestations: dont bring pests to your front door. Dr. Ellis and Tarpy have some solid videos on biology and lifecycle.
Swiffer sheets are a must, but this year I've used Scott's GrubX on the ground around my colonies and I have had awesome results. From what I've read, the active ingredients are not toxic to bees but are highly effective against SHB larvae.
I've tried everything to get rid of hive beetles with no success. This year I followed Fredrick Dunn's free range chicken method with great success. The chickens are always around the hives scratching and eating stuff. The hives still have a few beetles but seem to be easily managed by the bees and my hive tool. I'm convinced the chickens are the only solution that works (and we get free eggs). Thanks for another great video Bob. :)
Bob my 4 year old daughter sits beside me in my recliner on Sunday morning and watches Nature Cat on the TV while I watch your video on my phone. This morning she glanced over at what I was watching and said “Is that Bob Binnie?” She knows you by sight! 😂
Although it was not mentioned, I have had some success using “Beetle Barns” and peppermint. The bees chase the beetles into the “barn” and then close up the doors if you don’t check them often. Of all the traps out there, I have had more success with the “barn.” The beetles also seem to be repelled by the peppermint scent. I first heard of peppermint from Hillbilly Earl. Using the peppermint has reduced the number of beetles I find in my hives. I use both the peppermint star candy and the liquid peppermint oil. I use the candy as a gauge to tell me when I should add the peppermint oil to the walls of the hive box. The biggest issue with the candy is it will melt in the Georgia heat faster than they can eat it. If you have more than a couple of hives, beetle control becomes arduous as you need to check the hives often for beetles and any other pests. Checking often allows you to catch any problems with beetles before they get out of control. Strong hives are your best control.
Here in East Tennessee I had a problem with small hive beetles last year. I have had unsatisfactory experience with traps. They are just a place to hide. This year I treated with Scott’s Grub EX about 15 or 20 feet around all of my hives. I have to look to find a beetle. Grub EX is easy to apply it is the consistency of course sand. I applied it late evening when rain was forecast over night. I will use again next year. It needs to be applied only once in early spring.
Hey Bob! Running 500 colonies in Central-Piedmont NC. We use (3) mechanical controls to help with our SHB issues. (1)Below our colonies we use (4' wide) woven black weed-matting. That stops the larvae from leaving the hive and going straight into the ground. (2)All hives are in full sun. (3)We also use Amazon brand Swiffer sheets, cut in half, below the migratory lids during late summer. They do an "ok" job, but it offers help to the colony in keeping SHB numbers in check. The bees will propolize them heavily in place in about two months. For us, its a very passive and cost effective way to apply to a large operation. Great video as always!!! Thanks!
They are a Big problem in Florida! I have tried everything on the market and what works for me is Beetle Barns. I put a very small dab of Maxforce roach jell bait inside center of the trap. I change them out every month because the bees glue the 4 entrances shut in about a months time. I put the used ones in the freezer for a short time and then the bee glue pops out easy. After awhile the door won't stay shut but don't throw them away just use a nuc staple gun the door shut. The staples are not hard to remove and reuse the trap. Happy beetle trapping Bob!😁
I use Dixie H700 disposable towels and no more beetles. Tear them into several strips and lay them across the frames. They’re long enough to overlap so lids or top box will hold them. Good tip from Bruce’s Bees.
I utilize the same Dixie sheets. They work a little better if you rough em up with some light sandpaper first. I also like the swiffer sheets also . I buy them in bulk off amazon because I have a problem finding the unscented sheets in my locale.
@@CCCRApiary yea I agree with that. I didn’t rough these up because the bees will do that to some extent. I did catch a few bees but it was well worth it for all the beetles I captured. Thanks for your input. Different ideas are always welcome at this apiary.👍
Sometimes, you CAN reuse the Beetle Blaster trap. If the oil is not congealed, hold the trap perpendicular to the ground and put a water hose on one end and let the stream flush out the dead SHBs and old oil out the other end. JE
Hello Bob - I live on only 2 acres in Va and the only cleared spot is where the house is, thus my 25 hives are in the woods so of course they are always in the shade, however I seldom have hive beetle issues, seeing only a few here and there. I used to have a much bigger problem until I placed agriculture fabric around all of my hives. I was careful to cover all of the dirt under and around all of the hives. The cloth I purchased was 6' wide and I put it out to 12'. The theory is that the larvae won't be able to go into the ground. Several said I was wasting my time because they thought the larvae would just crawl to the edge and still make it, but that has not been the case. This is my 4th year with the fabric and I am happy to report that this year has been the same as the last three - very few hive beetles. So few that I don't need any treatment at all.
I put down landscape fabric under the hive and then put a good covering of Grub X on top of that and cover with cedar chips. It has worked well for me in Coastal South Carolina.
Also, have heard that farmers who run free-range chickens along with hives don't have a problem because the chickens eat the larvae that are on the ground. This "breaks" the SHB life cycle. Recently, chlorantraniliprole in pollen patties was found to kill SHB but *not* bees!
Southwest Florida, USA here. Beekeeping since 2011. Honeybees do best in crowded boxes. I've learned to rely on building & maintaining "strong hives". It's so much easier focusing on queen quality & hygienic traits than it is to continually juggle by adding/removing traps or buying gadgets. I'd rather spend the dollars on varroa control. In fact, I use small hive beetle pressure to select potential breeder colonies to graft from. The colonies that lack hygienic traits don't have what it takes whereas the colonies which have zero problems with beetles/moths are the ones I wanna keep.
I live in western NC and had a severe SHB problem years ago. My hives were in direct sunlight, too. I then consolidated my hives to a 50x50 ft. area that was lined with railroad ties embedded in the soil by 3 inches. I then placed weed barrier fabric down and ran it up the sides of the railroad ties by 6 inches and overlapped the seams by six inches. I secured the fabric to the ties with staples. I then covered everything with 4 inches of stone dust. My thought process was to keep the larvae from pupating in the soil. I went from seeing thousands of SHB a year to only seeing a couple of them a year. My weapon of choice when I see them is my hive tool. I use single deep brood chambers with screened bottom boards made by me and followed the University of Guelph plans. I have 26 hives. I'm pretty meticulous with my scrapings, too. I personally think that employing traps with an attractant can actually lead to an increase to the number of hive beetles in the hive. But this is just a personal opinion. As to my success of keeping the SHB from infesting my hives in large numbers, I can't point to one thing. It may be what I described or the magnetic north pole moving.
Hi Bob last year I lost hives from beetles never having them before and not knowing how to control them that’s when I found the swiffer sheet method and I was amazed this year at how well they work. I use a full sheet on a 10 frame box and a half sheet on my double 5 over 5’s. I recommend throwing a box of non scented sheets in each on of your trucks! Better to have it and not need it then need it and not have it
In Michigan I use rock salt in front of the hive. If you have a wet year you can also spray the rock salt with vineger. The rock salt and vinegar keep the soil acidic Killing the bettle larva. It also kills all the weeds around the hive.
I have learned over the years that full sun is the way to combat the beetles. Also being taught by Bob Binnie to do full sun is the way to go. Bob is the professor of beekeeping. Thanks for sharing and thanks to Molly also. She is always so nice to us when we visit blue ridge honey. We love coming there! In Haywood county this week but just couldnt make it to see yall this week. We went to Tennessee for a trip to Buc-ees. Lol.
Bob, Dick Brickner and I tried a hot weather trial on Formic Pro using the single pad/strip method. The trial went very well and the Formic Pro did not cause queen or other problems despite upper 90's and even 100 degrees F. I installed the pads on a cooler 85 degree F day and the following days were in the upper 90's. One of he side effects/benefits of using Formic Pro in this fashion is that is drives the SHB's out of the colonies down onto the corrugated sheet on the bottom board in Langstroth hives making the hive beetles very easy to kill. In Apimaye hives, the Formic Pro drives the SHB's down into the bottom board drawer where they can easily be killed. I found that so many SHB's were initially driven out of the hive into the bottom corrugated plastic sheet/bottom board drawer that it was MUCH easier and quicker to kill the SHB's with cheap brake cleaner which evaporates very fast and leaves not residue. Just carefully & quickly remove the sheet or drawer and spray them with the brake cleaner. No brake cleaner gets into the hive or bees that way. Each day I would check each hive for SHB's during the 10 day hot weather Formic Pro trial and during the 10 day period, I easily killed WELL in excess of 1,500 SHB's in our 60 colonies.
I use the beetle jails. I put organic mother's apple cider vinegar in the bait compartment, diatomaceous earth in one side and mineral oil in the other. It seems to work well. I love your videos and Molly is a wealth of knowledge and a prime example of how customer service should be! I ❤ getting to pick her brain when I visit.
We have increasing problems with SHB here in Ohio. I use swisher sheets and Beetle Blasters with pretty good results. I also spray underneath and around the hives with a high salt and veneger solutiion with my weed control. I reuse my Beetle Blasters by running really hot water over the openings while shaking the hot water back and forth. It takes a while, but most of the beetles can be exposed this way and then reloaded with mineral oil. Keeping the hives in "mostly" full sun also helps. Really enjoy your videos.
Thank you Bob for great videos. I keep bees on Long Island, New York. During one season, I used permethrin to spray one of my yards to prevent ants. While it did eliminate the ant colonies near my hives, it resulted in a significant beetle problem that year. I've come to believe that having army ants (large predator ants) in the bee yards is important. They do an excellent job cleaning up the larvae that fall to the ground to pupate.
Hi Bob, I really enjoyed talking to you at EAS in Amherst and watching your videos. I live in Staten Island NY and have been battling SHB for 5 years. I’ve tried almost everything and feel that the Swiffer sheets work the best.
Hello Bob an Molly . I am in Central NC an yes we do have the small hive beetles. I have used the swiffer sheets an had great luck with them also I use the black an clear beetle blaster an yes they can be a pain in working the hive but they do work good but a pain . Also I have found that you can wash those out with a water hose but you have to cut one or two of your cross bars on top just one side of the bar an fold them open wash it out then fold the cross bar back down level . I have found out I can get about three or four extra uses out of the beetle trap by washing them out. You just have to be careful with them . Bob if you would like a big bucket full of beetles for testing I will be glad to send you some LOL . Thanks
Living in the far north of vermont the last 7 years ,didn't need to worry about shb. Moved to martinsville area of virginia ,got 4 swarms and had shb. Swiffer sheets in the 4 corners, and grub x has done wonders. From several running around unchecked. To now we're they are none to a.few that are driven to corners and their demise. All hives are in direct sun also.
First year fighting small hive Beetles and I have had a lot of luck smashing them. I forget your friends name you did a video with Bob who has around 300 hives who feeds with ziplock bags and shims....I started feeding that way to save in buying feeders and have had good success in feeding and secondarily using the bags as beetle traps. The bees push the beetles up under the bags so it gives an opportunity to smash a lot more. I have also found the bees push the beetles to the corner of the frames and allows the opportunity to smash a bunch of beetles...between smashing and using some beetle blaster traps I have had good results....beetles like to stay low in hive so another good way to smash a bunch is to look on the bottom board. I've pretty much handled my bees by watching your videos and they are looking strong and healthy so thank you again for all the knowledge.
This year I have had a few beetles since using the hive gate. I also on my one hive kept my white robbing screen on to see if it helps as they fly straight in to a entrance and don’t hover. I’ve seen a good amount of less beetles. My hives are on my concrete patio in the sun so if the larvae fall through the screen bottom board if they crawl into hot concrete it most likely cooks them. Strong hive a swiffer sheets help a lot but need to be anchored between the boxes edges. I’m in central NJ with 6 hives
Here In southeast KY Small hive beetles have been basically the same this year as any other year. Some of my best producing hives are in a location that gets more shade than sun and it stays slightly moist for several days if we receive rain. Through trial and error I’ve come to realize that you can control the Beetle very well if you take the time to do so. *I spray the ground under my hives at dark with a mix of water, vinegar, pool salt and dish washing liquid. This will kill the weeds and grass under the stands and keep the ground dryer since all the vegetation is gone. * I use the swiffer sheets on my supers, but not on top of the main hive body. You will catch a few bees in the sheets but the number of beetles you catch makes up for the 3 or 4 bees that’s stuck to the sheets. * I use the beetles traps with vegetable oil and a little honey mixed together. 2 per super unless I have 3 supers on and then I’ll put 1 per super staggered to the top one. * I also like using the beetle barn that you can place on the bottom board or on the top of the frames if you are using a inner cover. I learned the hard way that SHB can take over quicker than you can imagine when you don’t have any way of catching them to start with.
BOB, I was just watching the video you made about using peroxide in the feed to starve out hive beetles but I'm not on board with using any GrubEx. The NUCs I am growing in the shade seem to have a few beetles and I just put in some Jail Traps because the DirtRooster says these are the traps to use.. I really appreciate the efforts you make to promote healthy beekeeping in the modern age.. I just reached out to David Burns (AES Master) and I was told the bees throw the patties out, attract beetles and was given instructions to stir pollen powder into syrup, but I'm still running supers for honey storage because the brood boxes are plugged... BTW the comment I read about Molly being a pleasant salesperson is right on target, she reminds me of watching Pretty-Woman years ago.
Hey Bob , down here in Louisiana we have lots of beetles, I like using the real swifter sheets, the other towels don't work as well until the bees work the sheets fluffing them up, the real sheets start working right away. I started out using beetle traps with oil, but quickly stop using oil as you tend to forget where you put them and end up killing bees and even queens when you pull a box and spill the oil onto the bees when you but the box on its side. I have never used the red beetle entrances but I have heard from people they are a waste of time and money. For nucs you can also use the new traps that the lid comes completely off and use a bait that the bees can't get to put kills the beetles , seems to work really well. Last never put more pollen Pattie than what the bees can consume in a couple of days. Hope this helps Bob, have a bless day.
I put a tarp down under my hives to help stop the larva from getting into the soil. Helps with grass growing all over the hives as well. I usually leave ants alone as well since they can clean up under the hive. I rarely see them trying to get into a colony. I also see lizards on my hives which I leave alone. I figured they were eating a few bees but they may be feasting on shb. I dunno what keeps them down for me best but shb are almost nonexistent in my hives. Mostly full sun.
A market gardener I worked for once used saltwater to control cutworms on brassica seedlings. Brassicas can handle a bit of salt. The cutworm larvae living beneath the seedlings are desiccated by the salt. I tried it for hive beetle by using pool salt crystals around my colonies, kills the grass, weeds and I'm sure the larvae. After two of the wettest years here in Australia and lots of slimeouts, heavy salting seems to have worked.
Thanks for your thoughts on hive beetle control. I live in southern Alabama and we have a lot of beetles. I reuse Beetle Blasters. I clean them out with a garden hose set on "jet", fill them with the cheapest cooking oil I can find, then the blaster is ready for another use. I can generally get several years out of a Blaster before the plastic cracks and I have to throw it out. "Three beekeepers will give you four opinions."
Hot and dry seems to be the best natural treatment. With that being said, we have had a cooler and much more wet year than normal here in Bee Lick, Ky. I'm relatively new in beekeeping (about 4 years) and had never had a problem with SHB until this year (really the last two months or so). I have made an observation though, previously my hives stood on a black woven ground cover (used mainly for suppressing weeds in gardening) that put my hives backed up to a fence forcing me to work them from the front. This year I moved the hives out so I could work them from behind the hive, which resulted in the hives no longer being on the woven ground cover. The entrances are now over soil with grass. I suspect moving the hives to over soil and the odd climate has probably added to SHB. I am currently trying the swiffer sheet method (installed those about four days ago) and alsoconsidering purchasing some reusable beetle jails.
I do a combination of the earth in the pan, and entrance. It doesn't prevent beetles from entering but it slows them down enough to allow the guard bees to throw the beetles off the hive. I managed to capture it in a video. One of the most amusing things I've seen my girls do.
I’m also using the Guardian red entrance reducers things. I discovered that there is a danger with the bees plugging up the entrance from the inside, as they have to maneuver over the ‘ledge’ that prevents beetles from waltzing straight in from the front. This plugging up of the entrance seems to be more of an issue during the colder months, perhaps due to extra moisture in the hive from condensation, or more dead bees being removed, or a variety of yet to be discovered reasons. Just something to watch out for using the Guardians.
I’m in Northern NSW Australia, what works best for me is using chux wipes like the ones in the video. As well as placing hives in full sun with vented bottom boards. If I get a slime-out in any hive I seal that hive and destroy it. I Then place diatomaceous earth around 3 feet of every hive in that apiary including the hive that was destroyed. If I don’t do that, the SHB problem can spread to the other hives in the apiary very fast. (This only happened when we had record rain last year during the floods). We can also get a product here called Top-bait with the active ingredient being 0.05% Fipronil that goes inside traps that only SHB can enter and not the Bees (like Beetle Barn traps). I did have good luck with it last year. But the latest batch didn’t seem to have any effect on the SHB. The oil traps are messy, especially when you forget they are in the hive when you move them. I started experimenting with peppermint oil, it seems to work 2 drops in about 100ml of water. If you put too much peppermint oil the bees will hang on the outside of the hive. I have only tested this in bee mating nucs. For me, the Wipes and Hives in full sun work 99.9% of the time. Hives without vented bottom boards have more than 3 times as many hive beetles
I live less than an hour from the Gulf of Mexico and the Florida-Alabama line and around here if you don’t get serious about dealing with these things, they will wreck you in no time flat. I’ve tried every trick in the book and right or wrong this is what works for me without fail. Get some beetle barns and on the inside of them, apply Syngenta roach gel in the center and in each interior corner then close them up. The beetles can get in, eat and die, the bees will keep them corralled in there and the bees can’t get to the bait because the trap holes are tiny. Place two on the bottom board way back in the corners. Place one on the top bars of the frames in each box. (If you’re running two deeps and a super then it’s going to take one for each). Place another one between the top inner cover and the top telescoping cover. In this hot weather you might have to change the gel out every couple of weeks because it will get hard. But what you are going to find is after the first week, you probably won’t see any more beetles (they’ll all be dead in the traps), but don’t get lazy with the baiting and let them get established again.
Not familiar with the Syngenta product so I downloaded the MSDS to verify its toxicity. I use Bayer Maxforce FC Magnum roach bait which uses .05% fipronil while the killing agent in the Syngenta is .6%. The Bayer product is very effective at that low concentration and is a little higher cost than the Syngenta. The Syngenta is 20 times more toxic if consumed than the Bayer product. They do not give the vapor pressure for Syngenta, but the vapor pressure for Bayer FC is equivalent to the vapor pressure of rock, it does not evaporate.
Yeah, the Syngenta product doesn’t fully evaporate, but I’m guessing that the filler is left behind after the ingredient that keeps it in a paste form dries up. What is left behind is a stiff tan substance. It might still be effective, but rather than chance it, I just remove it and reapply.
Strong colonies in full sun work for us. We have used the disposable traps and Swiffer pads which work well. We also use Greg Burns beetle butter and like it.
Our colonies in NE Indiana did not have many issues with SHB this year. However, last year was very different. Especially for one colony in particular that was kept in the shade. It tended to be damp for longer because the dew didn't evaporate until later in the day. Especially on humid days. One article I read suggested that SHB need humidity for their eggs to reach the larval stage. That is when SHB becomes the most destructive because the larvae burrow through the cells eating and defecating along the way. We moved that colony into the sun and gave them new frames. That corrected the problem. We've found that the # 1 remedy is actually a preventative technique... maintain strong colonies. Honeybees can't police the interior and forage at the same time, and the queen will lay less once resources diminish, which over time will lead to less bees... perhaps even causing the colony to abscond. That is a perfect environment for SHB and Wax Moths!!! We use swifter sheets and reusable beetle traps as well. Honeybees will chase SHB into them where they become trapped. One last thing... take care of colonies that have been overrun with SHB. They will fly to other apiaries once they deplete the resources in your colonies.
I have one yard that is right up on a swamp sitting in the shade and yes beetles are an issue there. I've have great success with Beetle jails (not Blasters) and this year I've been treating the ground with GrubX, the jury is still out on whether it is helping or not. I'm hoping Dr Bartlett is till working with the Chlorantraniliprole, it showed such promises.
I use grubex around the base of the hives to help eliminate larval state, it also helps control Japanese beetle larvae.last year in early summer I had high numbers, this year after a fall and spring application the beetle population is very low. I had good kill with swiffer sheets last year. I have stronger hives too. Could be conditions, , it could be the grubex,. Not sure.
SHB's are one honey bee pest I don't have to deal much with and I am very glad for it. Wax moths are more the issue here, that's what I get for living at the edge of a North West Rain Forest.😂Have a great Sunday Bob and crew.👋
Hot desert summer here so no issues with small hive beetles. What has been hitting us the last three years are the wax moths. Looks like we might be losing one of our strongest hives to them? Starting next Spring we will replace all of our Queens and do such every other year and see if maintaining stronger hives via a good Queen might remedy our problem. Thank You for an informative video!
We are 1hr north of Chattanooga at 2000’ elevation. Years ago changed stocks, but completely changed practices as well (raising queens, no walk-away splits/possible weak hives), and beetle issues went away. This year family health issues drew my attention from mini mating nucs with several infestations (they are in shade, main yard full sun). Just wanted to drop a related baiting note. My son raises geckos and we both raise isopods (Rollie-Pollie bugs) for fun and profit. A while back I dropped a cup of UltraBee in a 16-qt Sterlite container with a few 100 isopods, to see how they would like it as food. Yesterday I opened the container and crushed several hive beetles crawling up the sides. I’ve seen them on open-feeders drinking sugar water (rarely), but otherwise never seen them in a non-bee environment. Passing along for what it’s worth. In mini nucs 2-3 hive beetles in the top usually means a mated queen (fresh pollen smell? brood smell?). Just saying they are not above scrounging UltraBee in a pinch in other environments. I’ve always thought an external trap to bait/catch adults would be a good (and marketable idea), but I have too many irons as it is. 😂
Good call Bob to ask for input on SHB. I particularly liked the chickens to scratch for SHB larva. I'm picturing you now selling fresh eggs in your shop after taking on a "few" chickens ha ha 📹👍
In Eastern Oklahoma we have never seen a major problem with hive beetles. But will see a few. Swiffer pads have cleaned up the hives every time! And we run around 400 colonies
I am located in NW Georgia. My hives are in full sun until around 5:30 in the afternoon . Ground drains well as slightly sloped. I purchased the red guardian. It goes on the entrance reducer. I used them 2 years and never saw a hive beetle. Took them off and the next season I began to see some. I am putting them back on this season. Another trial. I will say this about them: Bees carrying pollen will land and they will crawl up thru the holes knocking off their pollen. You end up with a good bit of pollen on the ground in front of the hive. I have witnessed the beetle going round and round in the little slot trying to figure out a way in. Everything has its pros and cons I guess.
I am trying the following for Small Hive Beetle control this year Started it in April so far I have not seen a Small Hive Beetle in my hives. BTW the food coloring is only used so I can see when the mixture is well mixed any color would work. Small Hive Beetle repellent 1 cup powdered sugar ½ cup Crisco 15 to 20 drops of Eucalyptus oil 30 drops of red food coloring
Chris from Queensland Australia, I get a cockroach bait from a large hardware store, place it below in traps and all hive beetles die within days, once they eat it they don’t walk more than 1 inch from the trap
In middle GA, I’ve only seen SHB overwhelm colonies weakened due to some other cause. It’s not unusual to see a few beetles in most colonies, but otherwise healthy colonies are still quite productive. To me, it’s not worth the effort to try to eradicate every last beetle, but does require more management to stay on top of colony health.
Swiffer sheets catch beetles well for me. I cut them in half and lay them on bottom board and on top of each box. I've never had bees move the sheets. Replace when they get filled up or propolized.
Bob, thank you. I’ve been almost overwhelmed with the little devils. Lost several colonies in spite of using swifter sheets, beetle traps and putting them to the hive tool test. A bear if a year for me in suburban Atl.
I use the beetle blasters with success. I fill them with just canola oil. You can easily clean them out for reuse with a garden hose spray nozzle. For several years I have repeatedly used the same beetle blasters.
I treated my yard with GrubX this year and have barely seen a SHB. I also put pool salt around the colonies. If you’re not feeding, and put the swiffer sheets in a frame feeder, that also kills them in large numbers
I use Diatomaceous Earth in the beetle blaster's and they work well. You can also reuse them buy tapping them upside down and the dead beetles and DE falls out.
The best treatment in a video you put out with Lewis Bartlett. I live on the coast in Queensland Australia hive beetle Central lawn beetle poison mixed pollen sub in a trap will clear nearly all beetle within 3 days nothing compares to it and I tried everything
I'm in north Texas. Last year I had eight hives two hive I put the red guardian on two hives. All hives have screened bottom board's. I found out that the two with the guardian the bee's didn't all end up in the hive. They started drawing comb under the hive. Where all the others didn't. And the beattles were the same throughout all hives. I'm now experimenting with grease patty and wintergreen oil
I've mixed crisco lard with peppermint or wintergreen oil.About 15 to 20 drops to acup of oil. Then on a2 to 3 inch piece of card board spread about a teaspoon and place on top of frame's
Hi Bob We use chux cloth all year around in Australia and home made coreflute split with a bit of cockroach bait then taped up will give you nearly 3 months will minimum problems. That’s the least of our problems the government is still killing hive to beat the mite problem. It seems to be a loosing battle and so many beekeepers are loosing 1000s of hives Appreciate your videos Thanks Rodney
Australian professional beekeepers were moving hives outside the quarantine zones and thus spread the problem over the east coast. They have themselves to blame for losing thousands of hives.
I have minimal issues with SHB up in NW Indiana. Although I preach & teach, keep your hives in full sun. I have seen it, less sun will increase your beetle population! Also, cull out the weak hives or boost them. HBM Bee Happy
Ha Bob they are bad here in Virginia. the Towels work the best I have tryed all the traps and the oil, the demast earth everything tryed it all the towels catch the most. I love dead beetles I have lost hives and there is thousands of worms in my hive in a week. In the sun or shade the hive beetles are in every hive I have. They do not care. Any way glad for the video I was wandering if u was going to do 1. I miss them when u do not hope u have a wonderful week God Bless u and your family.
We use the beetle jail. I place pollen in all three compartments and regular vegetable oil. Works great. We used the swifer sheets before but caught more. Red than beetles on them. I don't use them anymore. The one use beetle traps are worthless. We quite using them.
While the disposable beetle traps (Beetle Blasters) are very inefficient when used with oil/liquid of any kind, they do work fairly well when filled with just diatomaceous earth. The beetles can’t maneuver well in the earth, and they die. No drips of oil while installing/checking/removing, and even some spills of the DE doesn’t hurt the bees. What makes this option even more efficient for the beekeeper is that they are very easy to clean out using compressed air. Just mask up (using your OXA respirator) when you do this as the DE really dissipates as it exits. You may be left with some chunks of propolis or other types of ‘detritus’, but it’s usually not enough to make the trap unusable. Also, the comment on the SHBs hiding under the wings of beetle blasters- try and install them so there is as little space as possible, and then run your hive tool over the top of those wings when inspecting the hive, you will likely hear the crunch of a SHB shell or two.
i also use dixie brawny h700 (hydro entagled fibers) and blasters ,or jails,apple cider vingar/ mineral oil,...theres also flax towels by brawny i havnt tried yet
I use the blaster’s with Diatomaceous earth in them and then rinse them each year. I get about three years use out of each. The beetles have been horrid this year though. I always run my tool over the wings before removing
The best advice i can give anyone is keep your hives in full sun. A lot of new beekeepers think keeping their hives in full sun is going to kill their bees, but they will survive just fine.
frederick dunn interviewed a young man used miller highlife lager beer in his tests as a strong attractant,possibly mixed w mineral oil,or veg oil to slow evaperation of the beer,...plus its good on a hot day working bees😅
I’ve had great success with the unscented dry mop (swiffer) sheets. Also, corrugated plastic (political signs) cut into 3x3” squares in the bottom of the hive. The bees propolize the beetles inside. Can add combat roach bait. I know some people probably aren’t ok with doing that. Cut the plastic down the center and inject a small bit of poison into each cell. Hot glue the plastic shut. The bees can’t get to it and it will be the beetles last meal. I’ve had great success doing this for the last seven years.
Can't say I have any major issue with SHB - see one or two occassionally which in interesting in that the woodland area near the hives is swampy/seeping springs with lots of skunk cabbage. We just had a speaker come to discuss SHB at a recent club meeting... one thing mentioned was ground pupating and a suggestion was made that if you can proved a solid surface of some sort under the hives it would slow or inhibit the larvaes ability to pupate. I have two rows of 2x2 foot pavers under all my hives so perhaps that might be part of the reason for my low SHB populations as the SHB larvae are less able to enter the ground to pupate? Added benefit of the pavers is the ability to run the riding mower to the edge of the pavers and avoids weed whacking altogether!
Down here south of Houston TX I've really never had a real issue with SHB. When I had my hives In a more shaded area they were worse. Since moving to full sun I rarely see SHB, it's normally only when I have pollen patties on. I always tell people that complain about SHB to get the hives out of the shade. Shading the hives is a convenience for the beekeeper, not the bees.
Wow those are some big bugs/beetles and alot of them I would think bee hives would attract all kinds of insects because of their honey when I eat outside or have a sweet drink outside there’s always bugs trying to get in my food or drink love learning about bees thank you for sharing your knowledge with us hope everyone has a great Labor Day weekend god bless
What kind of drink is attracting bugs might be the weapon we are missing. Honeybees hold the fort but some areas need help more than other and any input helps if see success on catching different bugs. Looks like these are drawn into swiffer sheets used for dust and pollen break down.
Bob I seem to recall that Randy, dirt rooster was messing with the peppermint. Thank the dear Lord we don't have hive Beatles here. But it strikes me as odd that we haven't seen more studies on the peppermint and hive beetles.
Hey Bob Albee here here’s a tid bit o information I have found that. 5 gallon bucket of hot water with dawn dish detergent will bring the throw away nettle blasters back to new leave for a day sometimes you can reheat a fresh bucket and they will be ready to reuse also I have had better service with virgin olive oil not going rancid to expensive to throw away hope you’re doing well have a good day
The guardian do do work I used it in my bait hive and the guardian upper entrance I used in my Layens hive and my hive never get SHB in Central Florida.
Dollar Tree version of the swiffer sheets are awesome! I will sometimes put peppermints (red) in opposite corners of the swiffer sheets. I put them in when I add mite treatments in the fall.
Thanks for sharing! Alot of what I do is because of convenience
In regards to the Beetle Blaster traps: they do work but do become propolized and I find beetles hide under the wings of traps.
The Red entrance reducers Molly showed will strip pollen off the corbicula of your foragers.
In the Beetle jail, reusable traps: I put cider vinegar in bait section and mineral oil in the sides ( vegetable oil becomes rancid here). It is essential you place them between side of box and first frame.
And like you said, a ground drench is in extreme situations.
Remember: strong colonies in full sun are your best defense! It is really essential to practice bio security. I have brought cut outs into an apiary in the past and have caused some massive infestations: dont bring pests to your front door.
Dr. Ellis and Tarpy have some solid videos on biology and lifecycle.
Hi Tim. Thanks for helping.
Swiffer sheets are a must, but this year I've used Scott's GrubX on the ground around my colonies and I have had awesome results.
From what I've read, the active ingredients are not toxic to bees but are highly effective against SHB larvae.
I've tried everything to get rid of hive beetles with no success. This year I followed Fredrick Dunn's free range chicken method with great success. The chickens are always around the hives scratching and eating stuff. The hives still have a few beetles but seem to be easily managed by the bees and my hive tool. I'm convinced the chickens are the only solution that works (and we get free eggs). Thanks for another great video Bob. :)
Bob my 4 year old daughter sits beside me in my recliner on Sunday morning and watches Nature Cat on the TV while I watch your video on my phone. This morning she glanced over at what I was watching and said “Is that Bob Binnie?” She knows you by sight! 😂
You're raising her right !😊
Molly is such a nice woman and an expert on Varroa & Hive Beetle treatments. Wonderful to have people like her in your company!
Although it was not mentioned, I have had some success using “Beetle Barns” and peppermint. The bees chase the beetles into the “barn” and then close up the doors if you don’t check them often. Of all the traps out there, I have had more success with the “barn.” The beetles also seem to be repelled by the peppermint scent. I first heard of peppermint from Hillbilly Earl. Using the peppermint has reduced the number of beetles I find in my hives. I use both the peppermint star candy and the liquid peppermint oil. I use the candy as a gauge to tell me when I should add the peppermint oil to the walls of the hive box. The biggest issue with the candy is it will melt in the Georgia heat faster than they can eat it. If you have more than a couple of hives, beetle control becomes arduous as you need to check the hives often for beetles and any other pests. Checking often allows you to catch any problems with beetles before they get out of control. Strong hives are your best control.
Here in East Tennessee I had a problem with small hive beetles last year. I have had unsatisfactory experience with traps. They are just a place to hide. This year I treated with Scott’s Grub EX about 15 or 20 feet around all of my hives. I have to look to find a beetle.
Grub EX is easy to apply it is the consistency of course sand. I applied it late evening when rain was forecast over night. I will use again next year. It needs to be applied only once in early spring.
Hey Bob! Running 500 colonies in Central-Piedmont NC. We use (3) mechanical controls to help with our SHB issues. (1)Below our colonies we use (4' wide) woven black weed-matting. That stops the larvae from leaving the hive and going straight into the ground. (2)All hives are in full sun. (3)We also use Amazon brand Swiffer sheets, cut in half, below the migratory lids during late summer. They do an "ok" job, but it offers help to the colony in keeping SHB numbers in check. The bees will propolize them heavily in place in about two months. For us, its a very passive and cost effective way to apply to a large operation. Great video as always!!! Thanks!
They are a Big problem in Florida! I have tried everything on the market and what works for me is Beetle Barns. I put a very small dab of Maxforce roach jell bait inside center of the trap. I change them out every month because the bees glue the 4 entrances shut in about a months time. I put the used ones in the freezer for a short time and then the bee glue pops out easy. After awhile the door won't stay shut but don't throw them away just use a nuc staple gun the door shut. The staples are not hard to remove and reuse the trap. Happy beetle trapping Bob!😁
I live in southern Louisiana. I’ve been using Scotts grub EX seems to be working very well. I applied it in April and July.
Thanks Bob for sharing and taking your time to do it. God bless you
I use Dixie H700 disposable towels and no more beetles. Tear them into several strips and lay them across the frames. They’re long enough to overlap so lids or top box will hold them. Good tip from Bruce’s Bees.
I utilize the same Dixie sheets. They work a little better if you rough em up with some light sandpaper first. I also like the swiffer sheets also . I buy them in bulk off amazon because I have a problem finding the unscented sheets in my locale.
@@CCCRApiary yea I agree with that. I didn’t rough these up because the bees will do that to some extent. I did catch a few bees but it was well worth it for all the beetles I captured. Thanks for your input. Different ideas are always welcome at this apiary.👍
Great video I know you are a busy man and just want to thank you for sharing with us. Thanks Bob
Sometimes, you CAN reuse the Beetle Blaster trap. If the oil is not congealed, hold the trap perpendicular to the
ground and put a water hose on one end and let the stream flush out the dead SHBs and old oil out the other end. JE
Hello Bob - I live on only 2 acres in Va and the only cleared spot is where the house is, thus my 25 hives are in the woods so of course they are always in the shade, however I seldom have hive beetle issues, seeing only a few here and there. I used to have a much bigger problem until I placed agriculture fabric around all of my hives. I was careful to cover all of the dirt under and around all of the hives. The cloth I purchased was 6' wide and I put it out to 12'. The theory is that the larvae won't be able to go into the ground. Several said I was wasting my time because they thought the larvae would just crawl to the edge and still make it, but that has not been the case. This is my 4th year with the fabric and I am happy to report that this year has been the same as the last three - very few hive beetles. So few that I don't need any treatment at all.
Excellent information, thank you
I put down landscape fabric under the hive and then put a good covering of Grub X on top of that and cover with cedar chips. It has worked well for me in Coastal South Carolina.
Also, have heard that farmers who run free-range chickens along with hives don't have a problem because the chickens eat the larvae that are on the ground. This "breaks" the SHB life cycle. Recently, chlorantraniliprole in pollen patties was found to kill SHB but *not* bees!
Southwest Florida, USA here. Beekeeping since 2011. Honeybees do best in crowded boxes. I've learned to rely on building & maintaining "strong hives". It's so much easier focusing on queen quality & hygienic traits than it is to continually juggle by adding/removing traps or buying gadgets. I'd rather spend the dollars on varroa control. In fact, I use small hive beetle pressure to select potential breeder colonies to graft from. The colonies that lack hygienic traits don't have what it takes whereas the colonies which have zero problems with beetles/moths are the ones I wanna keep.
Thanks T
I live in western NC and had a severe SHB problem years ago. My hives were in direct sunlight, too. I then consolidated my hives to a 50x50 ft. area that was lined with railroad ties embedded in the soil by 3 inches. I then placed weed barrier fabric down and ran it up the sides of the railroad ties by 6 inches and overlapped the seams by six inches. I secured the fabric to the ties with staples. I then covered everything with 4 inches of stone dust. My thought process was to keep the larvae from pupating in the soil. I went from seeing thousands of SHB a year to only seeing a couple of them a year. My weapon of choice when I see them is my hive tool. I use single deep brood chambers with screened bottom boards made by me and followed the University of Guelph plans. I have 26 hives. I'm pretty meticulous with my scrapings, too. I personally think that employing traps with an attractant can actually lead to an increase to the number of hive beetles in the hive. But this is just a personal opinion. As to my success of keeping the SHB from infesting my hives in large numbers, I can't point to one thing. It may be what I described or the magnetic north pole moving.
Hi Bob last year I lost hives from beetles never having them before and not knowing how to control them that’s when I found the swiffer sheet method and I was amazed this year at how well they work. I use a full sheet on a 10 frame box and a half sheet on my double 5 over 5’s. I recommend throwing a box of non scented sheets in each on of your trucks! Better to have it and not need it then need it and not have it
Thx4share interesting content Bob 👍
In Michigan I use rock salt in front of the hive. If you have a wet year you can also spray the rock salt with vineger. The rock salt and vinegar keep the soil acidic Killing the bettle larva. It also kills all the weeds around the hive.
I have learned over the years that full sun is the way to combat the beetles. Also being taught by Bob Binnie to do full sun is the way to go. Bob is the professor of beekeeping. Thanks for sharing and thanks to Molly also. She is always so nice to us when we visit blue ridge honey. We love coming there! In Haywood county this week but just couldnt make it to see yall this week. We went to Tennessee for a trip to Buc-ees. Lol.
Bob, Dick Brickner and I tried a hot weather trial on Formic Pro using the single pad/strip method. The trial went very well and the Formic Pro did not cause queen or other problems despite upper 90's and even 100 degrees F. I installed the pads on a cooler 85 degree F day and the following days were in the upper 90's. One of he side effects/benefits of using Formic Pro in this fashion is that is drives the SHB's out of the colonies down onto the corrugated sheet on the bottom board in Langstroth hives making the hive beetles very easy to kill. In Apimaye hives, the Formic Pro drives the SHB's down into the bottom board drawer where they can easily be killed. I found that so many SHB's were initially driven out of the hive into the bottom corrugated plastic sheet/bottom board drawer that it was MUCH easier and quicker to kill the SHB's with cheap brake cleaner which evaporates very fast and leaves not residue. Just carefully & quickly remove the sheet or drawer and spray them with the brake cleaner. No brake cleaner gets into the hive or bees that way. Each day I would check each hive for SHB's during the 10 day hot weather Formic Pro trial and during the 10 day period, I easily killed WELL in excess of 1,500 SHB's in our 60 colonies.
Where are you located? Dick Brickner
I use the beetle jails. I put organic mother's apple cider vinegar in the bait compartment, diatomaceous earth in one side and mineral oil in the other. It seems to work well.
I love your videos and Molly is a wealth of knowledge and a prime example of how customer service should be! I ❤ getting to pick her brain when I visit.
We have increasing problems with SHB here in Ohio. I use swisher sheets and Beetle Blasters with pretty good results. I also spray underneath and around the hives with a high salt and veneger solutiion with my weed control. I reuse my Beetle Blasters by running really hot water over the openings while shaking the hot water back and forth. It takes a while, but most of the beetles can be exposed this way and then reloaded with mineral oil. Keeping the hives in "mostly" full sun also helps. Really enjoy your videos.
Thank you Bob for great videos.
I keep bees on Long Island, New York. During one season, I used permethrin to spray one of my yards to prevent ants. While it did eliminate the ant colonies near my hives, it resulted in a significant beetle problem that year. I've come to believe that having army ants (large predator ants) in the bee yards is important. They do an excellent job cleaning up the larvae that fall to the ground to pupate.
Hi Bob, I really enjoyed talking to you at EAS in Amherst and watching your videos. I live in Staten Island NY and have been battling SHB for 5 years. I’ve tried almost everything and feel that the Swiffer sheets work the best.
Beetle trap and olive oil works for me. But haven't had a problem this year with hive Beetle .
Thank you for posting
Hello Bob an Molly . I am in Central NC an yes we do have the small hive beetles. I have used the swiffer sheets an had great luck with them also I use the black an clear beetle blaster an yes they can be a pain in working the hive but they do work good but a pain . Also I have found that you can wash those out with a water hose but you have to cut one or two of your cross bars on top just one side of the bar an fold them open wash it out then fold the cross bar back down level . I have found out I can get about three or four extra uses out of the beetle trap by washing them out. You just have to be careful with them . Bob if you would like a big bucket full of beetles for testing I will be glad to send you some LOL . Thanks
Thanks but I'll resist the urge to test. 😊
Thanks for this info!
Living in the far north of vermont the last 7 years ,didn't need to worry about shb.
Moved to martinsville area of virginia ,got 4 swarms and had shb.
Swiffer sheets in the 4 corners, and grub x has done wonders.
From several running around unchecked.
To now we're they are none to a.few that are driven to corners and their demise.
All hives are in direct sun also.
First year fighting small hive Beetles and I have had a lot of luck smashing them. I forget your friends name you did a video with Bob who has around 300 hives who feeds with ziplock bags and shims....I started feeding that way to save in buying feeders and have had good success in feeding and secondarily using the bags as beetle traps. The bees push the beetles up under the bags so it gives an opportunity to smash a lot more. I have also found the bees push the beetles to the corner of the frames and allows the opportunity to smash a bunch of beetles...between smashing and using some beetle blaster traps I have had good results....beetles like to stay low in hive so another good way to smash a bunch is to look on the bottom board. I've pretty much handled my bees by watching your videos and they are looking strong and healthy so thank you again for all the knowledge.
This year I have had a few beetles since using the hive gate. I also on my one hive kept my white robbing screen on to see if it helps as they fly straight in to a entrance and don’t hover. I’ve seen a good amount of less beetles. My hives are on my concrete patio in the sun so if the larvae fall through the screen bottom board if they crawl into hot concrete it most likely cooks them. Strong hive a swiffer sheets help a lot but need to be anchored between the boxes edges. I’m in central NJ with 6 hives
I used Gubex around my hives this year, it almost completely eliminated my hive beetle issue
Well here's my 2 cents worth , I have Guardian entrances on ALL my hives , and I swear by them , best invention ever for hive beetle . Peter 🇦🇺
Here In southeast KY Small hive beetles have been basically the same this year as any other year. Some of my best producing hives are in a location that gets more shade than sun and it stays slightly moist for several days if we receive rain. Through trial and error I’ve come to realize that you can control the Beetle very well if you take the time to do so.
*I spray the ground under my hives at dark with a mix of water, vinegar, pool salt and dish washing liquid. This will kill the weeds and grass under the stands and keep the ground dryer since all the vegetation is gone.
* I use the swiffer sheets on my supers, but not on top of the main hive body. You will catch a few bees in the sheets but the number of beetles you catch makes up for the 3 or 4 bees that’s stuck to the sheets.
* I use the beetles traps with vegetable oil and a little honey mixed together. 2 per super unless I have 3 supers on and then I’ll put 1 per super staggered to the top one.
* I also like using the beetle barn that you can place on the bottom board or on the top of the frames if you are using a inner cover.
I learned the hard way that SHB can take over quicker than you can imagine when you don’t have any way of catching them to start with.
SW Iowa I feel full sun most the day and swiffers work great. I've been experimenting during feeding with some tea tree oil as well.
BOB, I was just watching the video you made about using peroxide in the feed to starve out hive beetles but I'm not on board with using any GrubEx. The NUCs I am growing in the shade seem to have a few beetles and I just put in some Jail Traps because the DirtRooster says these are the traps to use.. I really appreciate the efforts you make to promote healthy beekeeping in the modern age.. I just reached out to David Burns (AES Master) and I was told the bees throw the patties out, attract beetles and was given instructions to stir pollen powder into syrup, but I'm still running supers for honey storage because the brood boxes are plugged... BTW the comment I read about Molly being a pleasant salesperson is right on target, she reminds me of watching Pretty-Woman years ago.
Hey Bob , down here in Louisiana we have lots of beetles, I like using the real swifter sheets, the other towels don't work as well until the bees work the sheets fluffing them up, the real sheets start working right away. I started out using beetle traps with oil, but quickly stop using oil as you tend to forget where you put them and end up killing bees and even queens when you pull a box and spill the oil onto the bees when you but the box on its side. I have never used the red beetle entrances but I have heard from people they are a waste of time and money. For nucs you can also use the new traps that the lid comes completely off and use a bait that the bees can't get to put kills the beetles , seems to work really well. Last never put more pollen Pattie than what the bees can consume in a couple of days. Hope this helps Bob, have a bless day.
I put a tarp down under my hives to help stop the larva from getting into the soil. Helps with grass growing all over the hives as well. I usually leave ants alone as well since they can clean up under the hive. I rarely see them trying to get into a colony. I also see lizards on my hives which I leave alone. I figured they were eating a few bees but they may be feasting on shb. I dunno what keeps them down for me best but shb are almost nonexistent in my hives. Mostly full sun.
A market gardener I worked for once used saltwater to control cutworms on brassica seedlings. Brassicas can handle a bit of salt. The cutworm larvae living beneath the seedlings are desiccated by the salt. I tried it for hive beetle by using pool salt crystals around my colonies, kills the grass, weeds and I'm sure the larvae. After two of the wettest years here in Australia and lots of slimeouts, heavy salting seems to have worked.
Thanks for your thoughts on hive beetle control. I live in southern Alabama and we have a lot of beetles. I reuse Beetle Blasters. I clean them out with a garden hose set on "jet", fill them with the cheapest cooking oil I can find, then the blaster is ready for another use. I can generally get several years out of a Blaster before the plastic cracks and I have to throw it out.
"Three beekeepers will give you four opinions."
Hot and dry seems to be the best natural treatment. With that being said, we have had a cooler and much more wet year than normal here in Bee Lick, Ky.
I'm relatively new in beekeeping (about 4 years) and had never had a problem with SHB until this year (really the last two months or so). I have made an observation though, previously my hives stood on a black woven ground cover (used mainly for suppressing weeds in gardening) that put my hives backed up to a fence forcing me to work them from the front. This year I moved the hives out so I could work them from behind the hive, which resulted in the hives no longer being on the woven ground cover. The entrances are now over soil with grass. I suspect moving the hives to over soil and the odd climate has probably added to SHB.
I am currently trying the swiffer sheet method (installed those about four days ago) and alsoconsidering purchasing some reusable beetle jails.
I do a combination of the earth in the pan, and entrance. It doesn't prevent beetles from entering but it slows them down enough to allow the guard bees to throw the beetles off the hive. I managed to capture it in a video. One of the most amusing things I've seen my girls do.
I’m also using the Guardian red entrance reducers things. I discovered that there is a danger with the bees plugging up the entrance from the inside, as they have to maneuver over the ‘ledge’ that prevents beetles from waltzing straight in from the front. This plugging up of the entrance seems to be more of an issue during the colder months, perhaps due to extra moisture in the hive from condensation, or more dead bees being removed, or a variety of yet to be discovered reasons. Just something to watch out for using the Guardians.
I’m in Northern NSW Australia, what works best for me is using chux wipes like the ones in the video. As well as placing hives in full sun with vented bottom boards. If I get a slime-out in any hive I seal that hive and destroy it. I Then place diatomaceous earth around 3 feet of every hive in that apiary including the hive that was destroyed. If I don’t do that, the SHB problem can spread to the other hives in the apiary very fast. (This only happened when we had record rain last year during the floods).
We can also get a product here called Top-bait with the active ingredient being 0.05% Fipronil that goes inside traps that only SHB can enter and not the Bees (like Beetle Barn traps). I did have good luck with it last year. But the latest batch didn’t seem to have any effect on the SHB. The oil traps are messy, especially when you forget they are in the hive when you move them. I started experimenting with peppermint oil, it seems to work 2 drops in about 100ml of water. If you put too much peppermint oil the bees will hang on the outside of the hive. I have only tested this in bee mating nucs.
For me, the Wipes and Hives in full sun work 99.9% of the time. Hives without vented bottom boards have more than 3 times as many hive beetles
I live less than an hour from the Gulf of Mexico and the Florida-Alabama line and around here if you don’t get serious about dealing with these things, they will wreck you in no time flat. I’ve tried every trick in the book and right or wrong this is what works for me without fail. Get some beetle barns and on the inside of them, apply Syngenta roach gel in the center and in each interior corner then close them up. The beetles can get in, eat and die, the bees will keep them corralled in there and the bees can’t get to the bait because the trap holes are tiny. Place two on the bottom board way back in the corners. Place one on the top bars of the frames in each box. (If you’re running two deeps and a super then it’s going to take one for each). Place another one between the top inner cover and the top telescoping cover. In this hot weather you might have to change the gel out every couple of weeks because it will get hard. But what you are going to find is after the first week, you probably won’t see any more beetles (they’ll all be dead in the traps), but don’t get lazy with the baiting and let them get established again.
Not familiar with the Syngenta product so I downloaded the MSDS to verify its toxicity. I use Bayer Maxforce FC Magnum roach bait which uses .05% fipronil while the killing agent in the Syngenta is .6%. The Bayer product is very effective at that low concentration and is a little higher cost than the Syngenta. The Syngenta is 20 times more toxic if consumed than the Bayer product. They do not give the vapor pressure for Syngenta, but the vapor pressure for Bayer FC is equivalent to the vapor pressure of rock, it does not evaporate.
Yeah, the Syngenta product doesn’t fully evaporate, but I’m guessing that the filler is left behind after the ingredient that keeps it in a paste form dries up. What is left behind is a stiff tan substance. It might still be effective, but rather than chance it, I just remove it and reapply.
Strong colonies in full sun work for us. We have used the disposable traps and Swiffer pads which work well.
We also use Greg Burns beetle butter and like it.
Our colonies in NE Indiana did not have many issues with SHB this year. However, last year was very different. Especially for one colony in particular that was kept in the shade. It tended to be damp for longer because the dew didn't evaporate until later in the day. Especially on humid days. One article I read suggested that SHB need humidity for their eggs to reach the larval stage. That is when SHB becomes the most destructive because the larvae burrow through the cells eating and defecating along the way. We moved that colony into the sun and gave them new frames. That corrected the problem. We've found that the # 1 remedy is actually a preventative technique... maintain strong colonies. Honeybees can't police the interior and forage at the same time, and the queen will lay less once resources diminish, which over time will lead to less bees... perhaps even causing the colony to abscond. That is a perfect environment for SHB and Wax Moths!!! We use swifter sheets and reusable beetle traps as well. Honeybees will chase SHB into them where they become trapped. One last thing... take care of colonies that have been overrun with SHB. They will fly to other apiaries once they deplete the resources in your colonies.
Stopping using pollen paddies & the ground soak worked for me.
I have one yard that is right up on a swamp sitting in the shade and yes beetles are an issue there. I've have great success with Beetle jails (not Blasters) and this year I've been treating the ground with GrubX, the jury is still out on whether it is helping or not. I'm hoping Dr Bartlett is till working with the Chlorantraniliprole, it showed such promises.
I use grubex around the base of the hives to help eliminate larval state, it also helps control Japanese beetle larvae.last year in early summer I had high numbers, this year after a fall and spring application the beetle population is very low. I had good kill with swiffer sheets last year. I have stronger hives too. Could be conditions, , it could be the grubex,. Not sure.
SHB's are one honey bee pest I don't have to deal much with and I am very glad for it. Wax moths are more the issue here, that's what I get for living at the edge of a North West Rain Forest.😂Have a great Sunday Bob and crew.👋
Hot desert summer here so no issues with small hive beetles. What has been hitting us the last three years are the wax moths. Looks like we might be losing one of our strongest hives to them? Starting next Spring we will replace all of our Queens and do such every other year and see if maintaining stronger hives via a good Queen might remedy our problem. Thank You for an informative video!
We are 1hr north of Chattanooga at 2000’ elevation. Years ago changed stocks, but completely changed practices as well (raising queens, no walk-away splits/possible weak hives), and beetle issues went away. This year family health issues drew my attention from mini mating nucs with several infestations (they are in shade, main yard full sun).
Just wanted to drop a related baiting note. My son raises geckos and we both raise isopods (Rollie-Pollie bugs) for fun and profit. A while back I dropped a cup of UltraBee in a 16-qt Sterlite container with a few 100 isopods, to see how they would like it as food. Yesterday I opened the container and crushed several hive beetles crawling up the sides. I’ve seen them on open-feeders drinking sugar water (rarely), but otherwise never seen them in a non-bee environment. Passing along for what it’s worth. In mini nucs 2-3 hive beetles in the top usually means a mated queen (fresh pollen smell? brood smell?). Just saying they are not above scrounging UltraBee in a pinch in other environments. I’ve always thought an external trap to bait/catch adults would be a good (and marketable idea), but I have too many irons as it is. 😂
Good call Bob to ask for input on SHB. I particularly liked the chickens to scratch for SHB larva. I'm picturing you now selling fresh eggs in your shop after taking on a "few" chickens ha ha 📹👍
Chickens! I wouldn't have thought of that. And yes, the comments are full of interesting and fun information.
In Eastern Oklahoma we have never seen a major problem with hive beetles. But will see a few. Swiffer pads have cleaned up the hives every time! And we run around 400 colonies
I am located in NW Georgia. My hives are in full sun until around 5:30 in the afternoon . Ground drains well as slightly sloped.
I purchased the red guardian. It goes on the entrance reducer. I used them 2 years and never saw a hive beetle. Took them off and the next season I began to see some. I am putting them back on this season. Another trial.
I will say this about them:
Bees carrying pollen will land and they will crawl up thru the holes knocking off their pollen.
You end up with a good bit of pollen on the ground in front of the hive.
I have witnessed the beetle going round and round in the little slot trying to figure out a way in.
Everything has its pros and cons I guess.
I am trying the following for Small Hive Beetle control this year Started it in April so far I have not seen a Small Hive Beetle in my hives. BTW the food coloring is only used so I can see when the mixture is well mixed any color would work.
Small Hive Beetle repellent
1 cup powdered sugar
½ cup Crisco
15 to 20 drops of Eucalyptus oil
30 drops of red food coloring
Chris from Queensland Australia, I get a cockroach bait from a large hardware store, place it below in traps and all hive beetles die within days, once they eat it they don’t walk more than 1 inch from the trap
In middle GA, I’ve only seen SHB overwhelm colonies weakened due to some other cause. It’s not unusual to see a few beetles in most colonies, but otherwise healthy colonies are still quite productive. To me, it’s not worth the effort to try to eradicate every last beetle, but does require more management to stay on top of colony health.
Swiffer sheets catch beetles well for me. I cut them in half and lay them on bottom board and on top of each box. I've never had bees move the sheets. Replace when they get filled up or propolized.
Bob, thank you. I’ve been almost overwhelmed with the little devils. Lost several colonies in spite of using swifter sheets, beetle traps and putting them to the hive tool test. A bear if a year for me in suburban Atl.
Perhaps the ground drench is for you. Good luck.
Dixie H700 towels cut in 1/4 under lid. Very effective but must be replaced periodically. Beetles are a horrible problem here in Florida.
I use the beetle blasters with success. I fill them with just canola oil. You can easily clean them out for reuse with a garden hose spray nozzle. For several years I have repeatedly used the same beetle blasters.
I treated my yard with GrubX this year and have barely seen a SHB. I also put pool salt around the colonies.
If you’re not feeding, and put the swiffer sheets in a frame feeder, that also kills them in large numbers
I use Diatomaceous Earth in the beetle blaster's and they work well. You can also reuse them buy tapping them upside down and the dead beetles and DE falls out.
The best treatment in a video you put out with Lewis Bartlett. I live on the coast in Queensland Australia hive beetle Central lawn beetle poison mixed pollen sub in a trap will clear nearly all beetle within 3 days nothing compares to it and I tried everything
I had a couple of the guardian entrances 3d printed. Large reduction of hive beetles. They work.
I'm in north Texas. Last year I had eight hives two hive I put the red guardian on two hives. All hives have screened bottom board's. I found out that the two with the guardian the bee's didn't all end up in the hive. They started drawing comb under the hive. Where all the others didn't. And the beattles were the same throughout all hives. I'm now experimenting with grease patty and wintergreen oil
I've mixed crisco lard with peppermint or wintergreen oil.About 15 to 20 drops to acup of oil. Then on a2 to 3 inch piece of card board spread about a teaspoon and place on top of frame's
Hi Bob
We use chux cloth all year around in Australia and home made coreflute split with a bit of cockroach bait then taped up will give you nearly 3 months will minimum problems.
That’s the least of our problems the government is still killing hive to beat the mite problem.
It seems to be a loosing battle and so many beekeepers are loosing 1000s of hives
Appreciate your videos
Thanks
Rodney
Australian professional beekeepers were moving hives outside the quarantine zones and thus spread the problem over the east coast. They have themselves to blame for losing thousands of hives.
I have minimal issues with SHB up in NW Indiana. Although I preach & teach, keep your hives in full sun. I have seen it, less sun will increase your beetle population! Also, cull out the weak hives or boost them.
HBM
Bee Happy
Ha Bob they are bad here in Virginia. the Towels work the best I have tryed all the traps and the oil, the demast earth everything tryed it all the towels catch the most. I love dead beetles I have lost hives and there is thousands of worms in my hive in a week. In the sun or shade the hive beetles are in every hive I have. They do not care. Any way glad for the video I was wandering if u was going to do 1. I miss them when u do not hope u have a wonderful week God Bless u and your family.
Swiffer sheets and a piece of thin plexy glass on top to smash when opening. Rough sheets up with wire brush
The only few beetles I found in my few hives were hiding up in the hive top feeders. I'm putting Swiffer pads in ASAP
We use the beetle jail. I place pollen in all three compartments and regular vegetable oil. Works great. We used the swifer sheets before but caught more. Red than beetles on them. I don't use them anymore. The one use beetle traps are worthless. We quite using them.
While the disposable beetle traps (Beetle Blasters) are very inefficient when used with oil/liquid of any kind, they do work fairly well when filled with just diatomaceous earth. The beetles can’t maneuver well in the earth, and they die. No drips of oil while installing/checking/removing, and even some spills of the DE doesn’t hurt the bees. What makes this option even more efficient for the beekeeper is that they are very easy to clean out using compressed air. Just mask up (using your OXA respirator) when you do this as the DE really dissipates as it exits. You may be left with some chunks of propolis or other types of ‘detritus’, but it’s usually not enough to make the trap unusable.
Also, the comment on the SHBs hiding under the wings of beetle blasters- try and install them so there is as little space as possible, and then run your hive tool over the top of those wings when inspecting the hive, you will likely hear the crunch of a SHB shell or two.
a screened bottom board with a enclosed removable tray ,partly coated w mineral oil,can work too,
i also use dixie brawny h700 (hydro entagled fibers) and blasters ,or jails,apple cider vingar/ mineral oil,...theres also flax towels by brawny i havnt tried yet
Good Morning Bob !
Good morning sir !
I have found beer in the traps is quite effective.
I use the blaster’s with Diatomaceous earth in them and then rinse them each year. I get about three years use out of each. The beetles have been horrid this year though. I always run my tool over the wings before removing
I use the black trap with a little vegetable oil in it and reuse them by cleaning with liquid ammonia in the winter.
The best advice i can give anyone is keep your hives in full sun. A lot of new beekeepers think keeping their hives in full sun is going to kill their bees, but they will survive just fine.
aint really had much of problem up along the east cumberland plateau north Tenn. strong colonies and hives in the sun
frederick dunn interviewed a young man used miller highlife lager beer in his tests as a strong attractant,possibly mixed w mineral oil,or veg oil to slow evaperation of the beer,...plus its good on a hot day working bees😅
I’ve had great success with the unscented dry mop (swiffer) sheets.
Also, corrugated plastic (political signs) cut into 3x3” squares in the bottom of the hive. The bees propolize the beetles inside. Can add combat roach bait. I know some people probably aren’t ok with doing that. Cut the plastic down the center and inject a small bit of poison into each cell. Hot glue the plastic shut. The bees can’t get to it and it will be the beetles last meal. I’ve had great success doing this for the last seven years.
Can't say I have any major issue with SHB - see one or two occassionally which in interesting in that the woodland area near the hives is swampy/seeping springs with lots of skunk cabbage. We just had a speaker come to discuss SHB at a recent club meeting... one thing mentioned was ground pupating and a suggestion was made that if you can proved a solid surface of some sort under the hives it would slow or inhibit the larvaes ability to pupate. I have two rows of 2x2 foot pavers under all my hives so perhaps that might be part of the reason for my low SHB populations as the SHB larvae are less able to enter the ground to pupate? Added benefit of the pavers is the ability to run the riding mower to the edge of the pavers and avoids weed whacking altogether!
I enjoy watching your videos and thank you for sharing your knowledge. I do have an off topic question what kind of camera do you use?
A Canon m6 mark ii, mostly with a Sigma 16mm 1.4 lens. The camera could do better if I would take the time to learn how to use it properly.
Down here south of Houston TX I've really never had a real issue with SHB. When I had my hives In a more shaded area they were worse. Since moving to full sun I rarely see SHB, it's normally only when I have pollen patties on. I always tell people that complain about SHB to get the hives out of the shade. Shading the hives is a convenience for the beekeeper, not the bees.
Wow those are some big bugs/beetles and alot of them I would think bee hives would attract all kinds of insects because of their honey when I eat outside or have a sweet drink outside there’s always bugs trying to get in my food or drink love learning about bees thank you for sharing your knowledge with us hope everyone has a great Labor Day weekend god bless
What kind of drink is attracting bugs might be the weapon we are missing. Honeybees hold the fort but some areas need help more than other and any input helps if see success on catching different bugs. Looks like these are drawn into swiffer sheets used for dust and pollen break down.
Bob I seem to recall that Randy, dirt rooster was messing with the peppermint. Thank the dear Lord we don't have hive Beatles here. But it strikes me as odd that we haven't seen more studies on the peppermint and hive beetles.
Yes, Ive heard a lot about it but no real research.
I am in Pensacola Florida and use all of these and put peppermint in the boxes. Seems to work, beetles are greatly reduced.
Hey Bob Albee here here’s a tid bit o information I have found that. 5 gallon bucket of hot water with dawn dish detergent will bring the throw away nettle blasters back to new leave for a day sometimes you can reheat a fresh bucket and they will be ready to reuse also I have had better service with virgin olive oil not going rancid to expensive to throw away hope you’re doing well have a good day
The guardian do do work I used it in my bait hive and the guardian upper entrance I used in my Layens hive and my hive never get SHB in Central Florida.
Hello Bob Binnie my bees are giants, hive beetles run lol.
Dollar Tree version of the swiffer sheets are awesome! I will sometimes put peppermints (red) in opposite corners of the swiffer sheets.
I put them in when I add mite treatments in the fall.