I’m giving you a thumbs up for your efforts. You took on this task after sundown, used a flashlight and filmed it. It also appears as though you were solo, not even someone to film or hold the light. You kept your composure and even though you ran into slight adversity, you completed the job without incident. It appears as though it was after hours and you still were able to locate an acceptable bolt replacement. I would like to leave you with a couple of suggestions as a former automotive technician. Rust and corrosion affect different components in different ways, so to protect the electrical connections, even though there is an encompassing rubber type seal, I like to add a thin layer of dielectric grease to the outer edges of the connections and the rubber seal. It helps keep moisture out and prevents corrosion. It creates an additional layer of protection, it also insulates between closely situated connections and helps prevent arcing. Dielectric grease is non conductive and water resistant. Being non conductive you don’t want to add any to the actual surfaces of the metal connectors. Those should be clean of corrosion, without damage and dry prior to connection. The grease acts as an additional layer of protection against any outside elements which can cause unseen, premature failure. You can also use the DE Grease on spark plug boots to help prevent adhesion, as well you should apply a thin layer on the sockets of your automotive light bulbs, it will help prevent corrosion and adhesion as well. There are many different uses for this product. Try not to use Vaseline unless in the event of emergency. ie.. Bad connections, severe storms, need some sort of temporary protective barrier. Vaseline deteriorates different types of rubbers and plastics and is combustible. If you are ever in need of a grease which will come in contact with any consumables, for example, O-rings for faucets, mixers, food processors etc. Or you need to pre lubricate hydraulic or mechanical o-rings or silicone rubber seals etc. you should consider purchasing Petrol-Gel Food Grade Equipment Lubricant, sold by many brick and mortar stores and online retailers. You can purchase it readily on Amazon, 2 tubes of grease, 4 ounces each, for a total of 8 ounces, at $9.49 for both with free shipping for Prime Members. I have been using this grease since the mid 1980’s for multiple reasons without failure. Garden hose rubber connection seals, automotive seals and electrical connections, battery connections, the list is endless, and the tubes go an incredibly long ways. Back to the installation of the sensor, I would have cleaned off as much of the corrosion as I could have from the main stud and the transmission cable connection, as well as the retention bolts before reinstallation. For the transmission cable connection I would have applied a thin layer of white lithium grease for ease of operation and the limited protection it offers from additional corrosion. Although I have been told I am somewhat OCD, I believe what little we can do to ensure our transportation infrastructure (our cars or trucks 😏) lasts that much longer, all the better for us. I figure, what the heck, it’s apart, no better time than now to go that little bit extra, it’s only a few minutes more than it otherwise would have been. Anyway, you keep up the great work, keeping your G.F. (and I’m sure you help out your friends and family as well. You just seem like that kind of guy 👍) safe and on the road so they don’t have to worry, thereby making it so you don’t have to worry about them. Stay safe, have fun, more importantly, enjoy life!! We’re only known to come around once, and, take it from me, it goes by quick, too quick! My kids were born in 1987 and 1991, no one told me I’d wake up the next day and they’d be 36 and 32. 🤷 I can’t wait to wake up tomorrow and see what that brings 😏🫣
I had the same issue with my Mazda yesterday when I filled up my gas tank it wouldn’t start so I put it in neutral and it started went to autozone this morning and got the part put it on thanks to ur video it really helped out 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks for the video. This gave me the confidence to try to replace it myself. I always expect problems when I work on a car, but in this case, everything came off as expected. New switch is in place, and so far, so good.
Thank You. My 2010 Mazda 3 has intermittent no start issue. Replaced ignition switch,and starter,and shuffled relays from horn to starter. Still doing it. Bought new Neutral Switch from ebay last night,but could not find where it was located on car on the internet. Your video cleared that up for me. "Again Many Thanks"
Thanks guys. Now It'll be a simple fix for me! great video. Your videos don't need to be professionally sponsored to be just what you need to know when you need to know it!! great job!
So many channels say “it’s the neutral safety switch” and then move on without even showing where it is or what it looks like... fucking morons... they’re making videos for people who don’t know what the fuck a neutral safety switch is and they don’t have the mental capacity to show the viewer what it looks like or where it’s located. Thanks man! Very well done video. Good explanation and good camera work showing is how it’s done. The only things that could have been better would be to have turned the key a few times and actually show us what it looks like when it’s not working, and to do the same thing to show the problem was fixed. But thanks a bunch man. Well done! Very appreciated.
Yeah I agree there is a lot of videos out there without proper explanations and visualizations! We try to do our best for both aspects. We truly appreciate your comment, and very true we could’ve shown how it operates more! We will try and improve that on our other tutorials and videos thank you for your feedback!
Good video on the how, but it would have helped a bit if this also mentioned the why. My 2010 Mazda 6 would drop out of drive. The lighted 'D' would just go off, and if it stayed off for more than a few seconds, the transmission would not know what gear it was in. The RPMs doubled, and in some cases (depending on my current speed) would abruptly slow the car down. It was obvious that the automatic transmission shifted to a lower gear. Lubing the connection pin that the shift cable attaches to helped initially, but eventually the problem returned. The new Neutral Safety Switch (aka Transmission Range Sensor?) seems to have solved the problem. Thanks for the video.
Hey guys, just letting you know that before you go changing the switch, get down under and take the skid plate off and spray with a penetrating lubricant on it. I had this problem two years ago, and can't remember the exact product I used (Deep Creep, or whatever). I shifted in and out of D to P several times, I think after letting it work it's magic for a little while. I may have put this on a second time after working it the first round. But for me, personally, I haven't had a problem since. For some reason these Mazda's (mine's a 2011) are prone to this gunking up. I drive a lot of dirt roads and country roads, etc. Anyway, hope this helps somebody.
Thanks for posting. Replaced the switch with ease due to this vid. One question though, why remove the clip and linkage when you remove the 20mm nut and washer anyway? I left it on and had no issues.
Alright here some updates. Well it worked!!! 40$ fix bam. But well the hardest was the plastic thing cover , some screws broke, tieraps fixed that, the big screw was a bitch! A lot of wd40 and a huge ratchet loosed it. Was hard AF... after that really easy. Thank to you man, I would never got the guts to do it.
Awesome! I’m glad we can give you the courage to do it and save some serious money! But yeah usually they rust out down there so Wd-40 is essential! Overall pretty easy other than some minor things
Hey RW. Great video. I followed all of the steps and connected the cable in the Park / far left position. The car starts but it no longer “clicks” into R or N. it’s more of a glide. I also cannot get the car into drive. P,N and R work. How bad did I mess this up?
You never mentioned that on the switch, there is a "D" with a line pointing toward the opening. Inside the opening of the switch is a notch that fits into the groove of the transmission. That is how you know you put the switch on correctly.
Hey Great video. When I tightened the main nut with the new part in place, it moved the gear linkage. I thought I’d moved it furthest left again but now I think I may not have as it won’t engage reverse at all and it’s engaging drive in neutral Park still seems to be park. Is there an easy way to resolve this? Can I just put it in park disconnect, ensure it is furthest left and then reattach and go from there?
Great job. You really helped me out. I didn't have a clue as to where the neutral safety switch is located. I have been given a car that I suspect has a defective neutral safety switch. It will not start in park but would start in neutral for a while but won't start in either now. Battery checks out ok but starter doesn't click. I will do a battery load test to make sure battery is still good.
i have that problem. garage guy say it must be in the electronic and stuff... the cable is so rusty and the switch look like it had better days lol... ill do it myself thanks to you. i hope it goes smooth like you
Yeah most cases it’s just the cables and less likely to been the computers. It’s a start so definitely try it and if it works you’re set but if not it could be computer issues. Highly doubtful but possible! Wish ya luck! Make sure to help us out by subscribing for more content!
Thanks for the video. How has the car worked since this repair? My 08 Mazda 3 2.0L Auto Trans is having same issue. Sometimes it starts, sometimes not.
I think I might have the same problem with my 2007 Mazda3 5-door. The car suddenly wouldn't start this morning after I filled up at the gas station. Jumping it didn't work and the fuses were okay. A website mentioned that it might be able to start in neutral. Sure enough it did. I don't mind having to do a little trick like this to start the car. If it is the neutral safety switch can I just put up with it or will ignoring the problem lead to a bigger problem?
Do you think just removing the cable bushing and greasing the nipple might to the trick? Im thinking maybe that's the part restricing the movment of the lock cable lever.
I tried this a couple of weeks ago and everything went fine but now my manual shaft lever is just spinning and not clicking into gear any more. Is there something I can do ti fix that? is there anything that could be causing that? Any help would GREATLY be appreciated, since I cannot drive the car right now, or get it off of the ramps since it is just stuck in park, I think.
Just a little tip from your Uncle Dave, buy an original Mazda part. Most aftermarket switches may work but for whatever reason some don’t. I’ve never had a problem with an oem switch. If you’re not a professional mechanic troubleshooting a new switch may be a problem. Just buy an oem switch.
Hey man, recently when I was changing out a transmission cable bushing for my 2004 Corolla I had to pull on the wire a bit to get it fit on the shifter arm. Now, my car randomly won't crank, similar to yours in the beginning. Do you think my NSS is unaligned since I pulled on the shifter cable from the gear shifter?
@@davidhine2991 haha this was an old comment, it turned out that my shifter bushing broke at the same time my starter shit itself. Caused a lot of confusion lol. Now I'm dealing with a new problem 👌
POVHD truly depends tbh. Each shop has different hourly rates, different part suppliers so some are cheaper than others. There’s a lot of factors but if it’s on this car I’d say prob around $100 in labor and then whatever the part cost is 😬
Good job but getting underneath the vehicle isn't a better idea.its risky the neutral safety switch for Hyundai Cars or front it's simple you open it replace with Mazda cars it's lil hard.
![Twenty One Pilots - The Line (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XCz7WUotXs8/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m giving you a thumbs up for your efforts. You took on this task after sundown, used a flashlight and filmed it. It also appears as though you were solo, not even someone to film or hold the light. You kept your composure and even though you ran into slight adversity, you completed the job without incident.
It appears as though it was after hours and you still were able to locate an acceptable bolt replacement.
I would like to leave you with a couple of suggestions as a former automotive technician. Rust and corrosion affect different components in different ways, so to protect the electrical connections, even though there is an encompassing rubber type seal, I like to add a thin layer of dielectric grease to the outer edges of the connections and the rubber seal. It helps keep moisture out and prevents corrosion. It creates an additional layer of protection, it also insulates between closely situated connections and helps prevent arcing. Dielectric grease is non conductive and water resistant. Being non conductive you don’t want to add any to the actual surfaces of the metal connectors. Those should be clean of corrosion, without damage and dry prior to connection. The grease acts as an additional layer of protection against any outside elements which can cause unseen, premature failure. You can also use the DE Grease on spark plug boots to help prevent adhesion, as well you should apply a thin layer on the sockets of your automotive light bulbs, it will help prevent corrosion and adhesion as well. There are many different uses for this product. Try not to use Vaseline unless in the event of emergency. ie.. Bad connections, severe storms, need some sort of temporary protective barrier. Vaseline deteriorates different types of rubbers and plastics and is combustible.
If you are ever in need of a grease which will come in contact with any consumables, for example, O-rings for faucets, mixers, food processors etc.
Or you need to pre lubricate hydraulic or mechanical o-rings or silicone rubber seals etc. you should consider purchasing Petrol-Gel Food Grade Equipment Lubricant, sold by many brick and mortar stores and online retailers. You can purchase it readily on Amazon, 2 tubes of grease, 4 ounces each, for a total of 8 ounces, at $9.49 for both with free shipping for Prime Members. I have been using this grease since the mid 1980’s for multiple reasons without failure. Garden hose rubber connection seals, automotive seals and electrical connections, battery connections, the list is endless, and the tubes go an incredibly long ways.
Back to the installation of the sensor, I would have cleaned off as much of the corrosion as I could have from the main stud and the transmission cable connection, as well as the retention bolts before reinstallation. For the transmission cable connection I would have applied a thin layer of white lithium grease for ease of operation and the limited protection it offers from additional corrosion.
Although I have been told I am somewhat OCD, I believe what little we can do to ensure our transportation infrastructure (our cars or trucks 😏) lasts that much longer, all the better for us. I figure, what the heck, it’s apart, no better time than now to go that little bit extra, it’s only a few minutes more than it otherwise would have been.
Anyway, you keep up the great work, keeping your G.F. (and I’m sure you help out your friends and family as well. You just seem like that kind of guy 👍) safe and on the road so they don’t have to worry, thereby making it so you don’t have to worry about them.
Stay safe, have fun, more importantly, enjoy life!!
We’re only known to come around once, and, take it from me, it goes by quick, too quick!
My kids were born in 1987 and 1991, no one told me I’d wake up the next day and they’d be 36 and 32. 🤷
I can’t wait to wake up tomorrow and see what that brings 😏🫣
I had the same issue with my Mazda yesterday when I filled up my gas tank it wouldn’t start so I put it in neutral and it started went to autozone this morning and got the part put it on thanks to ur video it really helped out 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks for the video. This gave me the confidence to try to replace it myself. I always expect problems when I work on a car, but in this case, everything came off as expected. New switch is in place, and so far, so good.
Thank You. My 2010 Mazda 3 has intermittent no start issue. Replaced ignition switch,and starter,and shuffled relays from horn to starter. Still doing it. Bought new Neutral Switch from ebay last night,but could not find where it was located on car on the internet. Your video cleared that up for me. "Again Many Thanks"
Our pleasure glad we could help you out
Thanks guys. Now It'll be a simple fix for me! great video. Your videos don't need to be professionally sponsored to be just what you need to know when you need to know it!! great job!
Hey thanks we appreciate and are glad it’ll help you out
So many channels say “it’s the neutral safety switch” and then move on without even showing where it is or what it looks like... fucking morons... they’re making videos for people who don’t know what the fuck a neutral safety switch is and they don’t have the mental capacity to show the viewer what it looks like or where it’s located. Thanks man! Very well done video. Good explanation and good camera work showing is how it’s done. The only things that could have been better would be to have turned the key a few times and actually show us what it looks like when it’s not working, and to do the same thing to show the problem was fixed. But thanks a bunch man. Well done! Very appreciated.
Yeah I agree there is a lot of videos out there without proper explanations and visualizations! We try to do our best for both aspects. We truly appreciate your comment, and very true we could’ve shown how it operates more! We will try and improve that on our other tutorials and videos thank you for your feedback!
Good video on the how, but it would have helped a bit if this also mentioned the why. My 2010 Mazda 6 would drop out of drive. The lighted 'D' would just go off, and if it stayed off for more than a few seconds, the transmission would not know what gear it was in. The RPMs doubled, and in some cases (depending on my current speed) would abruptly slow the car down. It was obvious that the automatic transmission shifted to a lower gear. Lubing the connection pin that the shift cable attaches to helped initially, but eventually the problem returned. The new Neutral Safety Switch (aka Transmission Range Sensor?) seems to have solved the problem. Thanks for the video.
Hey guys, just letting you know that before you go changing the switch, get down under and take the skid plate off and spray with a penetrating lubricant on it. I had this problem two years ago, and can't remember the exact product I used (Deep Creep, or whatever). I shifted in and out of D to P several times, I think after letting it work it's magic for a little while. I may have put this on a second time after working it the first round. But for me, personally, I haven't had a problem since. For some reason these Mazda's (mine's a 2011) are prone to this gunking up. I drive a lot of dirt roads and country roads, etc. Anyway, hope this helps somebody.
Thanks for the tip!
Worked for me. 2013 Mazda 5. Used WD-40 penetration oil. Before the P light won't on. After P light on. Thx
Q¹q11q
@@gerryhan8818I'm so glad it helped. And to date, I've still not had the issue reoccur. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for posting. Replaced the switch with ease due to this vid. One question though, why remove the clip and linkage when you remove the 20mm nut and washer anyway? I left it on and had no issues.
Alright here some updates. Well it worked!!! 40$ fix bam. But well the hardest was the plastic thing cover , some screws broke, tieraps fixed that, the big screw was a bitch! A lot of wd40 and a huge ratchet loosed it. Was hard AF... after that really easy. Thank to you man, I would never got the guts to do it.
Awesome! I’m glad we can give you the courage to do it and save some serious money! But yeah usually they rust out down there so Wd-40 is essential! Overall pretty easy other than some minor things
Hey RW. Great video. I followed all of the steps and connected the cable in the Park / far left position. The car starts but it no longer “clicks” into R or N. it’s more of a glide. I also cannot get the car into drive. P,N and R work. How bad did I mess this up?
Uses pry bar on only thing that doesn’t need a pry bar. 😂.
Good video definitely straight to the point.
😂 thank you!
You never mentioned that on the switch, there is a "D" with a line pointing toward the opening. Inside the opening of the switch is a notch that fits into the groove of the transmission. That is how you know you put the switch on correctly.
Hey
Great video.
When I tightened the main nut with the new part in place, it moved the gear linkage.
I thought I’d moved it furthest left again but now I think I may not have as it won’t engage reverse at all and it’s engaging drive in neutral
Park still seems to be park.
Is there an easy way to resolve this?
Can I just put it in park disconnect, ensure it is furthest left and then reattach and go from there?
Great job. You really helped me out. I didn't have a clue as to where the neutral safety switch is located. I have been given a car that I suspect has a defective neutral safety switch. It will not start in park but would start in neutral for a while but won't start in either now. Battery checks out ok but starter doesn't click. I will do a battery load test to make sure battery is still good.
Thanks! We're glad this video was helpful that's why we're here
Very instructional, thanks for that!
Rachel Maho stay tuned for more!
i have that problem. garage guy say it must be in the electronic and stuff... the cable is so rusty and the switch look like it had better days lol... ill do it myself thanks to you. i hope it goes smooth like you
Yeah most cases it’s just the cables and less likely to been the computers. It’s a start so definitely try it and if it works you’re set but if not it could be computer issues. Highly doubtful but possible! Wish ya luck! Make sure to help us out by subscribing for more content!
Ratchet Wrenches what is the name of that cable ?
Thanks for the video. How has the car worked since this repair? My 08 Mazda 3 2.0L Auto Trans is having same issue. Sometimes it starts, sometimes not.
You’re welcome! And it’s running and starting up fine now
Thanks, my girls car was having this issue: helpful video
You're welcome!
Can you tell me what that rod is called that the sensor slides on to?
Mine was so rusted that I had to cut off the nut.
I think I might have the same problem with my 2007 Mazda3 5-door. The car suddenly wouldn't start this morning after I filled up at the gas station. Jumping it didn't work and the fuses were okay. A website mentioned that it might be able to start in neutral. Sure enough it did. I don't mind having to do a little trick like this to start the car. If it is the neutral safety switch can I just put up with it or will ignoring the problem lead to a bigger problem?
Do you think just removing the cable bushing and greasing the nipple might to the trick? Im thinking maybe that's the part restricing the movment of the lock cable lever.
I tried this a couple of weeks ago and everything went fine but now my manual shaft lever is just spinning and not clicking into gear any more. Is there something I can do ti fix that? is there anything that could be causing that? Any help would GREATLY be appreciated, since I cannot drive the car right now, or get it off of the ramps since it is just stuck in park, I think.
Just a little tip from your Uncle Dave, buy an original Mazda part. Most aftermarket switches may work but for whatever reason some don’t. I’ve never had a problem with an oem switch. If you’re not a professional mechanic troubleshooting a new switch may be a problem. Just buy an oem switch.
Just started happening to my daughters car. Think I’m gonna try this. The splash guard is already ripped off lol.
Good luck and haha makes for one less step!
Do not break the nut without a 10mm on the edge of the bracket for counter bracing.
Great video! thx.
Thank you! And our pleasure
Hey man, recently when I was changing out a transmission cable bushing for my 2004 Corolla I had to pull on the wire a bit to get it fit on the shifter arm. Now, my car randomly won't crank, similar to yours in the beginning. Do you think my NSS is unaligned since I pulled on the shifter cable from the gear shifter?
Your cable is out of adjustment.
@@davidhine2991 haha this was an old comment, it turned out that my shifter bushing broke at the same time my starter shit itself. Caused a lot of confusion lol. Now I'm dealing with a new problem 👌
6:00 Don't use an electric tool for this. You can cross-thread it if youre not careful
If I go to a mechanic and ask them to install a new neutral safety switch . It should be around how much u think?
POVHD truly depends tbh. Each shop has different hourly rates, different part suppliers so some are cheaper than others. There’s a lot of factors but if it’s on this car I’d say prob around $100 in labor and then whatever the part cost is 😬
Ratchet Wrenches I have a 2005 g35 and thx for the quick reply!
POVHD my pleasure! I’m sure it’ll be in the $100-300 range all said and done
Good job but getting underneath the vehicle isn't a better idea.its risky the neutral safety switch for Hyundai Cars or front it's simple you open it replace with Mazda cars it's lil hard.
And see. Good mechanic. Good boyfriend. Smart girlfriend.
Wow not everyone knows anything happy for you 😂
Lol he's awesome for sharing and caring. Tell him thank you 😊.
Me sirvió de mucho para mí mazda5
what size or the hex/torx?
5
Awesome
Thx 🙏
You’re welcome!
Nice
Thanks
Anyone know where to buy one less than $250 for a 2014 Toyota Camry? 😫
Shit outta luck like my life lol
nice videoo
Ayyyy
is she still your girlfriend ?
No