Four Methods to cut a Rabbet / Rebate Joint
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- Rob Cosman shows you four methods to cut a rabbet joint
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Thank you Rob. Wood working vs wood machining; two ways to get to the same or at least very similar result, except for the human satisfaction part. You and your team continue to be a unique blessing to the wood working community world wide.
I especially enjoyed Method #3 using a router plane.
I'm going to get my router plane set up like that and make some rabbets! ❤ 💯
Go for it!
Rob, thanks to you for teaching me to sharpen my wood working tools so I can do the kind of work you do. My next two projects are a sape'le ladder shelf with bottom cabinet and a maple and sape'le corner shelf 80% hand tools. Having sharp irons ,saws and
chisels are the key to any well made projects
Superb video and commentary detailing 4 methods using both hand tools and the table saw to cut a rebate (though and stopped). Extremely useful tips using a variety of appropriate hand planes - the use of the router plane and its fence was particularly insightful as was the your method of checking accuracy(depth of cut and parallel distances) with the marking gauge. One ALWAYS learns new skills and alternative approaches with your videos - explained simply and effectively, backed up with great (close up) camera footage. Most grateful to you ALL for taking time to produce and promote such wonderful content - it is really appreciated!!!
Thanks for the thoughtful and detailed comment.
And love the secondary fence for the router plane
Its a game changer
@@RobCosmanWoodworking made one yesterday n making a different width one today
Great video for cutting a rebate. The power method is fast but is it as accurate as the router plane? I think not if you are fussy and want accuracy. Great video showing all the different ways to cut a rebate. Thank you for sharing. Take care!👍🏻
You are correct. And I like to be fussy
0:52 nice.
What about a plain old rabbet plane? Like the Stanly # 78.
It's unbelievable how many different tools people invented. That #3 "routery" thingy feels most comfortable to me, as it requires less skill that takes months to develop.
Yes there are a lot of tools. more tools meant more thing sto sale. The roughte plane is a nice tool...I love it
thanks
If you were cutting a rebate into a veneered plywood can you cut it using the same methods? What problems might you encounter? How would you cut the rebate in that situation? Thank you. Take care!
It works the same. If cutting into plywood you will encounter alternating grain patterns. A nicker or marking gauge to establish the shoulder line is a must.
Rob, where is the moving fillister plane? That should be #1 for cutting rebates. This can also be used for stopped rebates if you first remove the waste at the start and end of the rebate (otherwise one will plane a curve). Regards from Perth, Derek
Would it not be better to stop the blade of the saw before lifting the work piece?? Possibly of damage to the piece plus danger of dropping on the blade sending it flying back into you
Yes you are absolutely correct. I should have done that. Thanks for the safety tip.
Either cut the hair or grow a beard 😊
The hair was cut weeks ago, I think this is the last video we made before cutting the hair
Cut the hair man, not improving the look.🇨🇦👍👨🦳
You leave hippy Bob alone, the only looks he cares about are his products lol
@@J.A.Smith2397DickC6932 got other men’s appearances on his mind smdh
Hair got cut 3 weeks ago as a fundraiser for our Purple Heart Project. Raised just shy of $27,000.00!
@RobCosmanWoodworking wow I missed that. Fanatic and tks again from an Iraq vet!
Thanks Rob. I always learn something from your videos. Like using the marking gauge to cut the step left by a rabbeting block plane. That was a head slapper for me. I thought...DUH! How come I never thought of that? That really makes short work of the step. You make my day when you release a new video. Thanks again.
Glad I was able to share a useful tip with you
FIRST! Gday hippy Bob
I cut my hair weeks back...I think this is the last video we shot before the haircut
Very good Rob
Thanks for watching and commenting
When you find that your rebate is stepping out as you deepen the rebate, I believe that's caused by the way you're adjusting the blade. The blade should not be perfectly flush to the inside/cutting edge of the plane, but rather should be protruding slightly. If it's not protruding slightly, it can't cut any relief and get all the way into the corner of the rebate. Paul Sellers covers this is a few different videos including his Fillister Plane video on the Stanley 78 (ruclips.net/video/oz6NM4ZQDzY/видео.html) as well as one of his videos about the Stanley 92 Bullnose Plane (ruclips.net/video/50OSJ7PSTZM/видео.html) with a much better explanation than I can give.
When Rob is showing how to press the blade against another plane so it's perfectly flush (ruclips.net/video/Pi04Oa117f8/видео.html), my understanding is that this leads to the stepped/sloped shoulder. Instead, bump it out very slightly on the cutting side of the plane and I think you'll find you get a clean shoulder right off the plane. As a caveat, I'm a novice at best, but I had this very problem cutting a rebate joint recently with my Stanley 78 and bumping the blade out slightly for the next set of cuts did the trick for me. Rob may very well have a good/different reason for keeping the blade flush, so take this with a grain of salt and try some experiments to see how it works for you.
The marking gauge trick is a great one I'm going to have to try out next time I misconfigure my rebate plane and end up with a stepped shoulder. The stopped rabbet with a router plane looks pretty handy too.
You are correct and extending the blade slightly paste flush is what I advise in my video when I demonstrate cutting the rebate with a skew block plane.
Sure enough! I missed that on method one.
I was watching method two starting around 10:14 when you were getting setup for the cut with a regular block plane and a clamped board as the fence. Is there a reason the blade needs to be perfectly flush with the side of the plane for that technique or is it because of the specific planes? Maybe something to do with the blade not being wider than the plane and trying to keep the blade perfectly parallel with the sole? You did note that the blade was expected to be slightly wider than the body so I'm still confused.
You demonstrate the neat trick using the marking gauge to correct the sloping shoulder, but I'm just trying to understand why it was necessary at all.
How much longer on the Super 51/2??)
4-12 months is our current guess
@@RobCosmanWoodworking and what's up with no US sales?..
No US sales on WoodRiver planes.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking was hoping to buy from u along with the prep service.. anyway thanks for filling me in..one more question if ur obliged..do u think ur 3/4 dovetail saw can handle thicker better than the regular can handle thinner or other way?
Is the hair going to get cut in the intro?
We are working on that now
I like restoring old planes which I use. I just bought an old Stanley 190 rabbet plane which has no fence and recently restored a Stanley 71 router plane so this video came in very handy. I've seen others that begin there rabbet towards the far end of the rabbet and slowly work their way back with each pass. You don't do that. Why do you not or why do they? Great channel.
Starting your cut at the far end and working backwards to establish the cut is a good technique. The reason for it is so the grain doesn't pull your plane off of your cut. get the cut established then take full strickes. So the need for that technique is based on the wood grain you are working with, the cut you are making and your tool. That technique is really more applicable to a plough plan and cutting a dado or a groove. with this I am cutting pine which I don't anticipate grain issue, If my plan was to veer its no big deal since The cut is a rebate (It woul dbe a big deal is I was cutting a groove, and I have confidence from using my plane so much that it wont be effected by th egrain. Bottomline either method works.
Hey Rob & team, how easy it to align the nicker on a skew-block plane with the edge of blade? I'd be worried that unless it was spot on I'd leave a rough or wispy edge. Is there much advantage in using the nicker as opposed to just using a marking gauge?
Either way works but aligning the nicker is not difficult at all. Strike a line with a marking gauge then drop the nicker in the line, then set your fence. The real pain is unlocking the nicker, lowering the nicker, then tightening it back up then reversing that when done.
I love to watch you using the planes You make it look so easy and give it a more personal touch compared to using the table saw I really liked the third planer never seen that style before Thanks for the illustration of doing the rabbits Which do you like more, the rabbit or the miter
I don’t think that is a fair question as they are so different. But I don’t like miters much so I will go with rebate
I believe ive seen videos where you use a handsaw as your intitial means to get down to your depth and then proceed to clean up with a router plane or shoulder plane or something along those lines. Im actually doing a project and have been using that method for rebates and it seems to work fairly well. Do you find that method to not be as efficient as the ones youre using in this video?
There are several other methods for cutting a rebate that I did not show, mostly because I don't use them. The method you describe is fine. I don't like it as I prefer don't to use the saw on this joint, other ways are faster. But it works just fine
No mention of the fillister plane???
I did not mention several ways to cut a rebate. filister plane, yankee plane, other types of rebate planes, just a chisel. These are the four methods that I tend to ues.
Great video, Rob👍
Glad you enjoyed it