Great video, @adobo! And most impressive for managing to summarise this in less than 5 mins! Just a note for others, that quite often, your compression and rebound adjustment may be located separately on each fork, i.e. Compression on one and Rebound, the other. Your preload adjustment can be on top of the fork or at the bottom. Setting the right sag is key to comfort, handling and safety. Imagine if you didn't have sag and your bike travels over a dip or a hole - without the ability extend further, your whole front end (and rear end) will just end up crashing into it, upsetting the balance. Don't think your suspension is set up correctly straight off the showroom floor either. Most sportbikes may not have ANY rear free/ static sag set up whilst the front is way too soft. I know my R7 was waaaaay off for my weight and riding style. Spending time experimenting and adjusting it accordingly has improved the comfort and handling no end. And like others, I did also find Dave Moss' videos to be most helpful as he does dive into all the nuances and how it effects your bike in great detail for those interested. Thanks again for such a great video so succinctly explained!
Thanks for making this easy to understand. Just got a 2005 Yamaha R6 and it'll be my first bike with suspension adjustment capability. Haven't touched anything yet as I'm still working on the bike to get it roadworthy. Will be looking to do this setup once it's back on the road. Gonna probably set it up for street for now until I'm comfortable on the bike and then tighten things up next year when I take it to the track. Keep it up big bro
The only difference I would do is set rebound more like Dave Moss and bounce the front end and look for the front to go down (compress). Then return to you neutral point (rebound) and stop with out added bounces. Then bounce and set the rear shock and set the same way for rebound. Then standing next to the bike bounce both front and rear and look to see if the bike returns at the same rate front and rear.
Would love a separate video on your thoughts about after market front and rear suspension and the differences you could expect in handling, feel etc . Real world track benefits, advantages and impact of after market front and rear? Front vs rear benefits? Which one would you choose to upgrade first and why? Thanks!!
still a bit confused about the SAG settings ...should it be 25% of travel for the front and 25% of travel in the back as well? or you take 25% of the front travel, set the front sag, and then set the rear sag to be the same number? I watched like dozen of suspension setting video and nobody sad anything about this ...because as rear travel is longer, when you set rear sag for 25% of travel, the bike will squat on a rear a little ...should it be like that? or should front and rear sag the same?
I got my 23 gsxr and just started riding. 2nd year owning it and hitting decent bumps literally hurts. But I don’t wanna mess up the suspension by messing with it.
I know this is a year old but preload changing stiffness is a very common misconception. It has absolutely nothing to do with stiffness, just with ride hight and sag.
Before you start, you said "Before you do anything, make sure both forks are evenly adjusted." Are you adjusting the preload and rebound to the softest settings for suspension setup or are you using a mid point? What is the "start" point?
Start point is the Factory Settings, look in your User's Manual for all the suspension settings and make sure to set all adjustments to Factory. Then start from there.
oh but I did have a question, how do you get the initial measurements or what your bike is set up at? I look at my suspension from the factory and its set up differently on both forks. Ducati v4 set up
what if im on the softest setting for my setup (preload, rebound, compression) n while riding i still feel that everything is still very stiff n hard for me
ive found, that being a smaller guy, makes this process damn near impossible to set to "factory" without changing springs. except my cbr600rr i was able to actually set with my body on weight on factory springs, so if your a smaller guy, and just cant get it where it needs to be, you prolly just have to settle with close enough, or get softer springs
@@adobomoto yea im about 155 and have the absolute hardest time finding a bike thats for people of my weight. very good video tho, i just wanted to comment that incase someone is small like me and is like i have to back my preload all the way off and its still not enough lol
@chacorta8306 I'm an ase certified motorcycle mechanic🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 I wasn't asking for any advice. I was giving mine on the fact that bikes aren't made for guys my size. But how many motorcycle repair shops do you own???? No this isn't the most knowledgeable person in the game. But this video, is actually not wrong at all. The fact you made this comment is what's concerning to me🤣🤣🤣🤣
@adobomoto people Crack me up. Dude prolly doesn't even have a bike. But just wants to run his mouth. I graduated from MMI in 2010. What your saying, is 100 percent correct. And if anyone watches this video and follows the steps, they will have a proper tuned set up. I got your back bro🤣🤣
Thats only if ur oil is good and ur seals are not leaking! Also rider setup can differ from rider experience and and how aggressive of a rider you are!
i cant find good settings for my bike, cbr 600f pc41. stock settings from manual is waaaaay too hard for me :( im only 65kg wind blown haystick, so its not easy :D
What I fail to get is the total lack of real help the manufacturers are!?!? Its like WTF?? They dont even really try to help much IMHO! How HARD would it be for say Yamaha to have a program that helps get folks in the ball park? A program where you answer all the questions re your total weight with gear your style/type of riding (track twisty roads, highway, general commuting or percent mix of those....and then your level of proficiency from 1 to 10. Fill all that in hit enter and it comes back with suggested starting point. And btw IMHO? DEALERS ought to be REQUIRED to set your sag and replace the OEM springs if needed for minimal up charge because it CAN BE a a safety issue for one thing! It would be SUCH a help because I dare say hardly anyone knows what to do with their suspension even watching videos where Dave Moss is compressing some guys bike and by his expert feel alone can just tell "two clicks more out" etc whereas WE are just HUH?? Kinda makes me mad there is not a program like that....how hard could it possibly be to develop and offer new owners? Just for a baseline starting place? Instead it remains like voodoo mystery. BTW the listed questions above? THAT is what aftermarket asks new customers buying their suspension or kits and they USE that info to set up new suspension....So there is ZERO reason the manufacturers of new bikes cant have a simple program that asks the same questions and at least gives one the best educated guess at starting point for preload/compression/ and rebound! And whether you likely need to respring ASAP because you are so far from what the OE springs can work with
I can kinda get why preload should be the same on both legs but as for compression and rebound? I mean other than making it straight forward to keep track of change? HOW could it matter if the right and left were not the same number of clicks rebound and compression on each side? I mean consider that virtually all the high end forks and cartirdge kits have one side ONLY compression and the other ONLY rebound....now this is even with bone stock forks using new cartidge kit whether Ohlins or Ktech or Andreanni or Matris you name it I think ALL of em! So someone splain to me WHY all these DIY videos all seem to warn to "make sure both sides have the same number clicks rebound and compression" I hate ust hearing things parroted by people just parroting someone else who is parroting someone else ya know? I wish someone would do a lap time video comparing both (stock) legs identical number ofclicks and with trying just one leg with only rebound clicks added and other with only compression clicks added wouldnt it be something if there was no real difference? I have read comments on stick bike forums that claimed they could hardly tell difference with adjusting stock "clickers" but I mean how does one even tell other than "feel"? Unless it is lap times? OR a "shock dyno"....I am guessing a lot of what gets repeated is BS ....but again I honestly dont know. I assumed my forks were REALLY out of whack until I simply replaced my worn front tire with a brand new one of different make and profile.....and then it is now LITERALLY night and day difference! From all wonky gyrating in turns to now like it is on rails! JUST with a tire ALONE! One more thought re preload being same on both sides....I just remembered that there ARE in fact a number of models that only have a spring in ONE fork leg! One side is damping and the other side is spring so by that maybe it is not even critical that preload is identical both sides? just a guess I mean idk This is not only in price point little machines even race bikes like KX250 has this! Maybe Versys too? The point being there ar lots of bikes where one side is NOT the same as the other and provided it is adjusted right it works....so how critical could it possibly be that on "normal" forks they are identical number of clicks etc? Almost even sounds like to me if a number 10 for spring was too stiff and a number 9 too soft? It MIGHT (idk) be perfectly fine to put a 9 on the right and a 10 on the left for net effect of 9.5???
Same when I'm on my SV650 and same as the RC390 I had. You've got 2 options. Change the fork oil and spring or just live with it. Tbh my GSXR600 suspension is 'better' but not 'oh my god I can't corner' on the SV, it's just not as good so I go not as fast.
Now if I could get you to go back and do this again like you are teaching Timmy from South Park so I’ll get it. 😂
Just watch it again. 😂
Watch it again but slow the play back speed down 😂.
Timmahh
Possibly the best and easiest explanation ive seen, well done 👍
Out of 100 videos out there this is the best explanation. Thanks man
Great video, @adobo! And most impressive for managing to summarise this in less than 5 mins!
Just a note for others, that quite often, your compression and rebound adjustment may be located separately on each fork, i.e. Compression on one and Rebound, the other. Your preload adjustment can be on top of the fork or at the bottom.
Setting the right sag is key to comfort, handling and safety. Imagine if you didn't have sag and your bike travels over a dip or a hole - without the ability extend further, your whole front end (and rear end) will just end up crashing into it, upsetting the balance.
Don't think your suspension is set up correctly straight off the showroom floor either. Most sportbikes may not have ANY rear free/ static sag set up whilst the front is way too soft. I know my R7 was waaaaay off for my weight and riding style. Spending time experimenting and adjusting it accordingly has improved the comfort and handling no end.
And like others, I did also find Dave Moss' videos to be most helpful as he does dive into all the nuances and how it effects your bike in great detail for those interested.
Thanks again for such a great video so succinctly explained!
Thanks for making this easy to understand. Just got a 2005 Yamaha R6 and it'll be my first bike with suspension adjustment capability. Haven't touched anything yet as I'm still working on the bike to get it roadworthy. Will be looking to do this setup once it's back on the road. Gonna probably set it up for street for now until I'm comfortable on the bike and then tighten things up next year when I take it to the track.
Keep it up big bro
Im so glad I found this channel. Man you literally have the best channel in my opinion for bike maintenance. Please please continue
The only difference I would do is set rebound more like Dave Moss and bounce the front end and look for the front to go down (compress). Then return to you neutral point (rebound) and stop with out added bounces. Then bounce and set the rear shock and set the same way for rebound. Then standing next to the bike bounce both front and rear and look to see if the bike returns at the same rate front and rear.
Frfr💯💯
I just watched one of his videos showing exactly this method.
Bro coming in clutch with the wisdom! I needed this 1
Simple. To the point. Outstanding!!
Comment added to show appreciation. Damn that easy, now i feel lazy for not doing this yet to my bike.
best video online showing what each part does
I need you to start washing your bike before every ride. It's always nice to show up to the meet with a clean bike.
Would love a separate video on your thoughts about after market front and rear suspension and the differences you could expect in handling, feel etc . Real world track benefits, advantages and impact of after market front and rear? Front vs rear benefits? Which one would you choose to upgrade first and why? Thanks!!
Superb explanation. Thank you!
Fantastic video. Much appreciated 🙏
How did I miss this vid 😮😮😮. Another great vid.
Please do more vids with the ducati!
Something oddly satisfying about Adobo doing simple math.
Second! Tbh, i'm not really into this. but it's very entertaining and informative!!
😂 i think everyone is a fan of riding and talking
Great informational vid man!
This was very useful 🙏🙏, thanks
still a bit confused about the SAG settings ...should it be 25% of travel for the front and 25% of travel in the back as well? or you take 25% of the front travel, set the front sag, and then set the rear sag to be the same number? I watched like dozen of suspension setting video and nobody sad anything about this ...because as rear travel is longer, when you set rear sag for 25% of travel, the bike will squat on a rear a little ...should it be like that? or should front and rear sag the same?
Loved it. I’m going to play with my thing. :)
Best review yet for setting static sag. I want to know though is there a way to do the whole set up without the help of another person?
Center stand
I got my 23 gsxr and just started riding. 2nd year owning it and hitting decent bumps literally hurts. But I don’t wanna mess up the suspension by messing with it.
Soften the preload
That was very helpful
Thank you for the tip sinigang man
nice tutorial we should ride sometime im in the washington area
Great video, thank you
Awesome video
I don't understand why you did all that calculation for the sag but then just used 30% of the travel?
Is the 25~30 % sag applies to both front and rear suspension?
Ayyy the duc making an appearance
0:13 Do I need to loosen all the rebound and compression before I do the test?
Good info thanks
I know this is a year old but preload changing stiffness is a very common misconception. It has absolutely nothing to do with stiffness, just with ride hight and sag.
If you have adaptive suspension you just figure out sag right ?
Is it ok for your left foot to be on the ground when sitting on the bike while taking your rider sag measurments?
Before you start, you said "Before you do anything, make sure both forks are evenly adjusted." Are you adjusting the preload and rebound to the softest settings for suspension setup or are you using a mid point? What is the "start" point?
Start point is the Factory Settings, look in your User's Manual for all the suspension settings and make sure to set all adjustments to Factory.
Then start from there.
oh but I did have a question, how do you get the initial measurements or what your bike is set up at? I look at my suspension from the factory and its set up differently on both forks. Ducati v4 set up
what if im on the softest setting for my setup (preload, rebound, compression) n while riding i still feel that everything is still very stiff n hard for me
Revalve, respring.
So, we don’t need to measure the static sag at all?
ive found, that being a smaller guy, makes this process damn near impossible to set to "factory" without changing springs. except my cbr600rr i was able to actually set with my body on weight on factory springs, so if your a smaller guy, and just cant get it where it needs to be, you prolly just have to settle with close enough, or get softer springs
Most of these are for those around 180-200lbs riders
@@adobomoto yea im about 155 and have the absolute hardest time finding a bike thats for people of my weight. very good video tho, i just wanted to comment that incase someone is small like me and is like i have to back my preload all the way off and its still not enough lol
@chacorta8306 I'm an ase certified motorcycle mechanic🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 I wasn't asking for any advice. I was giving mine on the fact that bikes aren't made for guys my size. But how many motorcycle repair shops do you own???? No this isn't the most knowledgeable person in the game. But this video, is actually not wrong at all. The fact you made this comment is what's concerning to me🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@stoneyoutdoors8819 I blocked that idiot. don't waste your time bro..lmfao
@adobomoto people Crack me up. Dude prolly doesn't even have a bike. But just wants to run his mouth. I graduated from MMI in 2010. What your saying, is 100 percent correct. And if anyone watches this video and follows the steps, they will have a proper tuned set up. I got your back bro🤣🤣
I don't have a bike but what if i want to use 50 percent of all travel...
How about ohlins semi active electronic suspension
Thats only if ur oil is good and ur seals are not leaking! Also rider setup can differ from rider experience and and how aggressive of a rider you are!
Good man not sure if this is because of the comment I left but good to see you I think every writer should be aware
I think it was you who told me to make this. I made a short form of it..but i figured i’d make this long one
godsend I love you
i cant find good settings for my bike, cbr 600f pc41. stock settings from manual is waaaaay too hard for me :( im only 65kg wind blown haystick, so its not easy :D
I’m 90kg and I keep hitting my foot on the ground on the street. Been told maybe I need to tighten the suspension..
im a small rider so my preload is 0, all the way soft lolz
OMG i nid back to school
🙏
What I fail to get is the total lack of real help the manufacturers are!?!? Its like WTF?? They dont even really try to help much IMHO! How HARD would it be for say Yamaha to have a program that helps get folks in the ball park? A program where you answer all the questions re your total weight with gear your style/type of riding (track twisty roads, highway, general commuting or percent mix of those....and then your level of proficiency from 1 to 10. Fill all that in hit enter and it comes back with suggested starting point. And btw IMHO? DEALERS ought to be REQUIRED to set your sag and replace the OEM springs if needed for minimal up charge because it CAN BE a a safety issue for one thing! It would be SUCH a help because I dare say hardly anyone knows what to do with their suspension even watching videos where Dave Moss is compressing some guys bike and by his expert feel alone can just tell "two clicks more out" etc whereas WE are just HUH?? Kinda makes me mad there is not a program like that....how hard could it possibly be to develop and offer new owners? Just for a baseline starting place? Instead it remains like voodoo mystery. BTW the listed questions above? THAT is what aftermarket asks new customers buying their suspension or kits and they USE that info to set up new suspension....So there is ZERO reason the manufacturers of new bikes cant have a simple program that asks the same questions and at least gives one the best educated guess at starting point for preload/compression/ and rebound! And whether you likely need to respring ASAP because you are so far from what the OE springs can work with
Bro thats Not Simple Math you lost long ago
I can kinda get why preload should be the same on both legs but as for compression and rebound? I mean other than making it straight forward to keep track of change? HOW could it matter if the right and left were not the same number of clicks rebound and compression on each side? I mean consider that virtually all the high end forks and cartirdge kits have one side ONLY compression and the other ONLY rebound....now this is even with bone stock forks using new cartidge kit whether Ohlins or Ktech or Andreanni or Matris you name it I think ALL of em! So someone splain to me WHY all these DIY videos all seem to warn to "make sure both sides have the same number clicks rebound and compression" I hate ust hearing things parroted by people just parroting someone else who is parroting someone else ya know? I wish someone would do a lap time video comparing both (stock) legs identical number ofclicks and with trying just one leg with only rebound clicks added and other with only compression clicks added wouldnt it be something if there was no real difference? I have read comments on stick bike forums that claimed they could hardly tell difference with adjusting stock "clickers" but I mean how does one even tell other than "feel"? Unless it is lap times? OR a "shock dyno"....I am guessing a lot of what gets repeated is BS ....but again I honestly dont know. I assumed my forks were REALLY out of whack until I simply replaced my worn front tire with a brand new one of different make and profile.....and then it is now LITERALLY night and day difference! From all wonky gyrating in turns to now like it is on rails! JUST with a tire ALONE! One more thought re preload being same on both sides....I just remembered that there ARE in fact a number of models that only have a spring in ONE fork leg! One side is damping and the other side is spring so by that maybe it is not even critical that preload is identical both sides? just a guess I mean idk This is not only in price point little machines even race bikes like KX250 has this! Maybe Versys too? The point being there ar lots of bikes where one side is NOT the same as the other and provided it is adjusted right it works....so how critical could it possibly be that on "normal" forks they are identical number of clicks etc? Almost even sounds like to me if a number 10 for spring was too stiff and a number 9 too soft? It MIGHT (idk) be perfectly fine to put a 9 on the right and a 10 on the left for net effect of 9.5???
alr brah you doing to much i saw math and just paused it
Bro said just have your friend lift up the bike, ?????? Okay
Me: Crying in non adjustable suspension(mt03)
Same when I'm on my SV650 and same as the RC390 I had. You've got 2 options. Change the fork oil and spring or just live with it. Tbh my GSXR600 suspension is 'better' but not 'oh my god I can't corner' on the SV, it's just not as good so I go not as fast.
I took it to the track and had the suspension wizard do it for $40
Dave Moss?
@@adobomoto no I’m in Ottawa Canada, his name was probably Jean-Pierre or something like that 😂
First?😂