Test and try: Macintosh Centris 610 (with a "sassy" recap)
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2024
- Time for another Test and Try episode. This time we have a Macintosh Centris 610 pizza box computer from 1993. Let's see if this old thing works and see if I can clean it up.
0:00 Looking inside the Centris 610
6:11 Recapping and cleaning the board
1:02:45 Testing out the Mac
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Your ability to "chat" with your audience as you do your work is amazing - it's almost like we're there with you having a conversation! Excellent YT skillset, Adrian.
Thanks!
The Bob Ross of retro computing RUclipsrs.
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 Something I hate of the ceramic caps... is that they don't say the value😠... they should be laser engraved or something 🥺... next time you need to work in this board.. you will not have a way to tell the value of this caps🤷♀....
@@inrit Happy little capacitors?
i actually like to fall asleep to these videos lol
Hi Adrian,
According to my research, the so-called capacitor plague is caused by chemical decomposition of the electrolyte. Hydrogen gas is being formed, causing the safety valve to spew out whatever electrolyte is left in the capacitor. The electrolyte itself mainly consists of water, ethylene glycol and boric acid. Other types of acid or bases may be present too. From a chemists point of view: you should consider using a double treatment, first with a mild base like a solution of sodium carbonate (soda), followed by another treatment with a mild acid like white vinegar or even citric acid. Generally I would prefer citric acid over vinegar as citric acid is just more capable of complexing metal ions.
Would a product like Goo-Gone be safe to use on a PCB? I'd figure the citric acid in it would work as intended, but I'm not sure if it would remove any of the silk-screen or solder mask as well.
Most other videos I've seen like this use vinegar. I think since everyone pretty much has a jug of it laying around, and I'm guessing the metal ions aren't as much of the problem, as neutralizing the corrosiveness of the usually alkaline electrolyte. And as long as you don't neglect the vinegar and leave it on, it's pretty mild. I may also boil down to mileage may vary, I'm guessing different ppl have different solutions work for them. So it's highly likely someone out there prefers the citric acid method like you mention. So I guess, try each and see. LoL
What about the other way - I'd think it would be better to douse the thing in lemon juice first, then use baking soda to bring it back to pH neutral?
@@cobrag0318 Different people; different solutions, eh? I see what you did there.
@@tvtoms ohh actually wasn't intentional, but I'll take it. Lol. But I'm a firm believer in that sort of things. Some people find different things work better for themselves. If it's "stupid" but works, it's not stupid.
No arguing with Mr Carlson, that man is an undisputed legend !
I absolutely agree.
Adrian is the Bob Ross of recapping, the random chatting is great.
haha, i was thinking the same thing!
It's a happy little corroded capacitor.
that would mean that Mr Carlson is Mr Rogers
Find yourself an old board, and "beat the devil out of it"
Happy little Caps
FYI, If you replace electrolytic capacitors with ceramic capacitors you really should use ceramic capacitors that are rated for at least 2-3 times the voltage the capacitor will see. The reason is ceramic capacitors actually have lower capacitance the closer they get to their rated voltage. The loss of capacitance is often severe - 60% or more if they are operated near their rated voltage.
Using a capacitor rated for a higher voltage mitigates this by shifting the operating voltage further down so the capacitance ends up close to the expected value while in circuit.
Some manufacturers of ceramic capacitors (such as Murata) publish charts showing exactly how much the capacitance drops in relation to rated voltage and operating voltage for each model capacitor.
Yes. This effect is called DC Bias. You probably want something like a 25V ceramic cap for a 5V rail to avoid the DC Bias effect.
One other thing: please don't blindly substitute ceramic caps for electrolytics unless you know 100% that they are suitable for the circuit in question. Ceramic caps have effectively zero ESR, but some circuits will be reliant on the small ESR of an electrolytic cap to function properly. It might 'work', but in reality the circuit may be unstable or erratic (e.g. a linear voltage regulator oscillating, which may appear fine on a multimeter, but a 'scope will show is a hot mess).
Yup, I learned this lesson the hard way, ceramic caps capacitance goes down the closer you get to the rated working voltage, so you want much higher voltage versions to ensure they're actually large enough at whatever voltage they're operating at.
I was thinking the same thing. Most of the time it is fine to do this if you give good voltage rating headroom, but occasionally you can get burned and invite unwanted oscillations in the circuit.
I'm consistently impressed at how I can watch a video for more than an hour and be engrossed the entire time. It's so rare I find someone who can do that!
Heh thanks! Yeah I figured this video would be mostly “background” video for someone working on something else.
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 Nobody puts Adrian in the background 😊 I love your videos!
@@jbrown9742 I'd say he's half right, but that's not a bad thing. This video can used as background noise yet still be fascinating to listen to or see.
Twist and press down is the best way to remove those caps. Fully agree! Thanks for sharing
Totally agree. People that rip traces pull up on the caps when twisting, thats what's killing traces.
Nope, it's unprofessional and lazy. Shows he doesn't care he's adding structural damage to the board.
@@Breakfast_of_Champions 🤡
@@Breakfast_of_Championsso? It's a hobby. Does not have to be professional and it's good to be lazy then.
And it worked just fine!
@@Breakfast_of_Champions It never happened to him as he said, it's his stuff anyway and he's way more competent than David Murray for example
The Centris to Quadra change was about 68LC040 to 68RC040. In other words, changing to ones with the FPU. In the case of the 610, they also increased the speed from underclocked 20MHz to the actual 25MHz the CPU was capable of. In the LC vs Quadra series such as LC 475/Quadra 605, there was the same pattern of LC vs RC model 040; FPU vs no FPU. In any case, I think the idea was that Macintosh LC series were supposed to be low end, and Quadras high-end, and Centris something in-between. That naming didn't live long, and they started with the Performa stuff shortly after. The clock oscillator is the G1/G2 or perhaps G5/G6, a 4-pin chip, it's just an SMD version of the common tin can oscillator. There used to be commercial clip-on accelerators that overclocked these, and it's one of the first Macs that were commonly overclocked. I had a Quadra 900 at the time and overclocked it to 33MHz. The actual Quadras (700/900/950) of this Centris era had all tantalum caps.
"Macintosh LC series were supposed to be low end" - It's even in the name: LC = Low Cost ;)
oh, and the oscillator OC was also popular on the mac IIsi as apple built the IIsi from the same spec parts as its higher clocked, more expensive brother, the IIci - so the IIsi could handle IIci speeds just as well as a real IIci.
The former owner of my IIsi had already swapped the original 40 MHz tin can for a 50 MHz one in a socket.
I've read that you can go up to 55 MHz before things start falling apart.
@@KenjiUmino Yes, but there were other crippling on the IIsi as well, such as the policy of making expansion slots a premium feature. Artificial product segmentation, and way too much of it was another core sin of Apple and many others at the time, which only led to them sabotaging their own products.
All this crippling of their own products (and the same within Commodore and Atari) led to the win of the lackluster PCs. If they had properly competed against each other and PCs instead of against their own artificial product segmentations of overpriced vs crippled products, history would've been different, because PC assemblers (calling them manufacturers would be too much) couldn't afford such crippling, and just went with the best bang for buck components at any given time.
That, and the fact that boomers were responsible for financial decisions such as which computers to buy for their companies or homes despite not understanding computers, so they bought the only brand they recognized such as IBM (compatibles). They also had weird ideas such as that good graphics and sound capabilities somehow made computers inferior, and dismissed such computers as "game computers".
This was also seen later in the 90s and even in the 2000s as giving kids some awful random old PC they salvaged from their work-place's junk bin as a "game computer" despite lacking any of such gaming features, such as sound or hi-res color graphics. Sure kid, go ahead and enjoy some PC games like Quake on this random 286 with Hercules graphics and sound capabilities comparable to a vacuum cleaner.
I like to use the "twist method" to remove processors. I live on the edge.
LOL!!
While you're taping over the SIMM sockets, you might want to slap a piece on the CPU socket too if you're going to leave the CPU out while you're doing solder work on the board.
I love these rambling videos. Would love to hear about your time in IT security and your thoughts about the future in that industry.
ooh that would be awesome!
Pro-tip for solder wick. Take the end between thumb and index of both hands and wiggle side to side along the thin profile. This will open up the weave of the wick, and it works better that way. When the wick is being made, the tension of the braiding machine will make the wires too close together, hampering the "wicking" action.
Also, while every solder wick i have ever used has rosin in it, add some liquid rosin to the braid before you apply it to the joint and heat.
I never used to believe in liquid flux, till i had to do some really challenging repairs. Now, i will only not use it if it's not available for some reason. It's easy mode, for sure.
I never thought to do it with my fingertips, I always struggled to get consistent splaying with two sets of tweezers 😅
@@kaitlyn__L Learned that trick from an 80 year old man back when i was a teenager. Solder wick wasn't even a thing when he started in electronics.
That old bastard taught me a ton of stuff i never realized was gold, until i was much older. For instance, how to solder. I owe my soldering skills to that man.
Sadly, i am way out of practice, but i expect to remedy that very soon.
@@jeromethiel4323 that’s great! I learned to solder in electrical engineering class, but only the teacher was allowed the expensive wick. We all had to make do with awful solder suckers! (And cheap, uncooperative solder!)
@@kaitlyn__L I have used every de-soldering mechanism known to man. One of the best, is the silly soldering iron with the red rubber ball on top and a hollow tip.
It takes a ton of practice to get good with it, but when you do, it's amazing at de-soldering through hole components. The control you get over the suction makes all the difference. Plus you can use the hollow tip to wiggle leads to break any last little bit of solder holding on down in a plated through hole.
But nothing beats solder wick for just mopping up extra solder on PCB pads.
@@jeromethiel4323 I’ll have to look into that! I only see people comparing suckers, wick, and high-power (and high-cost!) desoldering stations. Kind of sounds like it’s a manual-pumped version of the latter? But also more compact and cheaper. Which sounds right up my alley - I don’t do enough soldering to warrant a full station, but I’m starting to do enough again that wick is beginning to feel excessive.
Try putting a drop of flux on the solder wick, as well as the item being desoldered. Most solder wick comes prepped with a coating of solid flux, but the addition of a drop of liquid rosin flux on the wick really helps remove oxidation in the wick, and makes superb capillary action occur.
Intro "just a quick video"
😂😂
Love your long videos Adrian :) Always a highlight in the day when you upload 😀
Best wishes from the UK
Thanks Adrian for the Centris 610 video and the full tutorial on your recapping process! No angry comments here.
Take that "This Does Not Compute" !!
In regard of replacing electrolitics with ceramics, or perhaps film or tantalums, be aware that different sorts of caps mostly are chosen for their properties. A electrolitic performs different on higher frequencies than a ceramic. Though it often is not really critical, it is wise to review the function of the cap before changing the type.
It's always best to replace type with type for that reason. Except when you know for sure that the specific properties of the cap don't matter, but even then type with type is best.
This video has made me realize that it's absurd that I'm intimidated by recapping a board when I've built several keyboards using SMD diodes.
There's no perfect way to take those evil corrosive buggers off, we all just do what works best for us.
I recently recapped an Amiga 600 and the electrolyte had worked it's way underneath surface mounted passives. It's a big worry that without removing everything there might still be corrosion happening.
Love listening to you rambling!
I just recapped a SE/30 board (not on video) and it's unbelievable how bad it looked. You couldn't even see the pads it -- I wouldn't even tell if they were there or not! But with a bit of work I was able to save it. I'll need to make a little Patreon video showing the before and after as I did take some pictures at least.
I had an old 32" lcd tv that went bad. I opened it u and it had 3 bulging caps on the power board. i bought new ones and soldered them on and now it works again. I bought a cheap iron. I think I will do that again. It's all thanks to watching you and Noel and Necroware.
As someone who has recapped a lot of computers, TVs etc, I approve of this comment. Hope you'll end up repairing lots of things 😃 Another common fault on TVs is the backlights going bad, it's usually not too expensive or difficult to replace them.
Can't say I've EVER tried this personally, but I've read that the salts left by the electrolyte are polar and a polar solvent should be used. From what I've read, distilled or deionized water is best. Just soak the board in distilled or deionized water and wait for the salts to dissolve, then clean with an old toothbrush and bake the board to dry it (110F). I also read that a pencil eraser can help scrub the salts off. If you try it, please let us know how it turns out. I don't have any boards from that generation that need recapped, so I can't do my own experimenting. BTW: the previous commenters were right. 'Quick' and 'super mini' don't really apply here. 🤣
That's interesting! What I find is that the salts appear after I wash the board -- so perhaps scrubbing it first with just distilled water is the way to go before using any soap?
I was wondering if vinegar would help remove the salts and any corrosion that might be present.
Yeah, as some others here have suggested, an old toothbrush and some IPA is perfect for cleaning PCBs from all sorts of gunk :) Also, there is never too much flux when it comes to deoxidizing pads :) You can always wash it away when you're happy with it
I'm all for twisting off those types of capacitors. I tried doing it the "sensible" way and it caused carnage to a CD32 motherboard. When I started twisting them loose there was no further damage. In fact, I think I discovered your channel by googling "surface mount electrolytic capacitor removal" and landing on one of your videos! 😊
I totally agree that twisting the caps is the best method.
That scan converter does sometimes identify 640x480 as 1280x480 ...
The Bob Ross of ancient computers. "That happy little capacitor lives right there."
Haha Mr Carlson's lab it feels like back to school learning electronics.. I love to watch his videos about his restoration and the explainations..
Love the video. Love that you tell so many good things and stories. Love your content. Thank you very much!
I watch a guy who works on iPhone's and he mounts caps just like you do on the boards. Keep these videos coming, I love watching them!! Its been years for me now!!
This is completely wrong. You’re supposed to lift the caps off with a levitation spell and use melted gummy bears for flux. Duh
Wow, I loved this video 😃. More than one hour that flew in a moment! I mean, listen to you while watching you working is great, and as usual I’ve learnt a lot
I'd recommend baking soda or, ta-da, Windex to clean the electrolyte crusties. One of the more common electrolytes in those caps is boric acid, so a diluted base would be your best bet to neutralize it. Just make sure you rinse it off with some IPA or similar once you're done.
Some stores sell a cheap dilute ammonia solution in their cleaning aisle, that would be ideal for getting rid of electrolyte crust.
There is a video comparing the different decapping methods, and it came to the same conclusion: Twisting or cutting them off is the most effective and much less prone to damage due to stray heat.
I wish I had known this removal method earlier. Recapped an SE 30 back in 2013 and had to rebuild some traces. This is amazing! Also the ceramic capacitors tip is gold! Thank you for this amazing video!
Hey Adrian just wanted to say thank you for making a video like this. As someone who is very much an amateur solderer (my only experience has come from youtube videos over the past year), having this sort of step by step process is super helpful. Although some might complain about it being a repetitive video and thus less entertaining, this is perfect for someone like me who is trying to improve/refine techniques. I will be trying out the twist method the next time I have to do a recap. Any similar "tutorial" videos in the future when it comes to technical work like this will be very much appreciated.
Hi Adrian. I've been a fan of your channel for a long time! Especially enjoy your content on the TRS-80s and other Tandy devices. My boss in my first job out of high school holds the patent on a dial-up modem for the Coco. So I always send him your content on those machines and he gets a huge kick out of them. But seeing you boot up a machine with OS 7.5.3 was more my neighborhood! I had OS 7.5.3 on a 5260/100 that my mom bought me when I was 13. That was my first computer. And I still have it! Running OS 7.5.3!
It was good to see the old machine working!
Adrian, I also use the twist method to remove caps; I learned from your channel. I have removed hundreds of capacitors with no damaged traces. This method is both quick and effective. I applaud you in keeping on using it and showing it to your viewers.
i really enjoy this video format, it's like a vlog/podcast but interesting.
Great job you did Adrian! Thankx for sharing with us. Greetings from Steven from the Netherlands
To clean flux and crust I use a vibrating (not rotating) "sonic toothbrush", I found in the dumpster. After wetting the location with isoprop it applies just the right amount of mechanical force to remove the crust like a charm.
So cool, really inspiring. I have an old Sunspar v440 from the late 90's early 2000s, might just take that off the shelf in my garage and go over it? hehe thanks for all you do!!!!
love theese chillax videos Adrian!
I have spent 1.5 hrs watching this... and i am now late for work!! Thank you so much!! 🙂 Awesome vid.
I have been in the field for 50 + years. There's nothing wrong with your process!
Biggest difference between this and the Quadra 610 is the processor- this has a 68LC040 (which lacks the FPU) and the Quadra has the full-fleged 68040. The 68EC040 also lacks the MMU. I believe the clock oscillator is the one next to the NIC chip (NS DP83932 SONIC). The NCR 53C96 is the SCSI controller, one of the first single-chip SCSI controllers, which was designed in east Wichita, KS, about 25 miles from where I live.
Speaking of brittle plastics, my Performa 636 has almost all of its plastics missing.
You've inspired me Adrian, I have a Centris 610 in storage that I picked up a few months ago - tested it at the time and confirmed it worked and booted and a quick visual inspection of the caps didn't really show any signs of leaking - so I put it aside for another day repair. But seeing your video now makes me thing I need to get those caps off quick smart! ;-) Thanks for the great content and especially love it when you do Apple stuff!
I tend the remove the caps and wash the board even if I don’t have time to finish the recap … I’d rather is not keep corroding away while in storage.
Don't wait too long! I have an LC II that I popped open and inspected all quick-like. Didn't notice any leaking, so I left it for a year or so. When I got back around to it later and took a little more thorough look, they were definitely leaking. I lost some pads on that one because the damage directly underneath was a lot worse than it seemed at first glance.
I find that extra-firm toothbrushes do well to clean flux using IPA. I've had good results from a pack of bamboo toothbrushes I got from amazon.
I think that Epitronics uses Vinegar to neutralize those crystals from Cap/Battery leachate.
RUclips Video of the Year! So helpful.
W/O even watching, this is my most favorite ADB video!
My first computer love was my Centris 610 w/an Apple (Sony Trinitron) monitor and DOS card! Once in love, always in love... Still own it today
I love your enthusiasm!
I enjoyed the video, particularly the bit about setting up the 7.5 system to boot on the HD. I have a couple of macs of this vintage, but never used them much.
I think we had one of these in the desktop publishing lab when I was in high school. Neat to see!
So salty in this one, Adrian! It was great. I love these old Macs, My elementary school had tons of these in our computer labs and a couple of the "fat pizza box" PowerPC machines too. Then the single machine that was assigned to each classroom was usually an LCIII or something similar. Good memories of that startup sound (and the sad one, for that matter).
I thought you were going to talk about the electrolytes!😂
Awesome video as always Adrian. Reminds me of when I recapped my PC Engine Duo motherboard.
I like the 2 soldering iron method of removing those kind of caps. On a Symetrix 528E voice processor you do stand a good chance of tearing the pads off with the twist method but then those devices have possibly the worst built board I have ever seen. I have done dozens of them and after having to repair pads I'll just stick to the 2 soldering iron method. Love those little caps you have.
i love the long vids thank you Adrian for posting
Oh man this is awesome. I have this exact model that I've been needing to recap
I'm saving this video somehow
I'm with you, I've used the twist on about 100 boards and have not had a problem. You have to be really careful to collect the remnants of the cap's contacts though. I also use the dishwasher method.
Love these long form videos!
I can tell you, I have tried other methods, but damaged a board. I had to purchase a replacement board. Now I use your method. And now it works wonders. Let your friend know I am using his method and thanks for passing it along. And all I have to do is remove the original legs. That is extremely easy. Thank you for showing how to use it. I have seen you do many boards this way. I am part Canadian myself. But live in the USA. The winters in Canada are way too cold for me.
Fully agree about the method you use to remove these caps. It's always worked for me.
I'm Canadian and been soldering since the mid 70s... and I pronounce it "sodder" :) I save all my old toothbrushes for cleaning flux and other gunk off boards. It works ok. btw, I had some anxiety as you were cleaning up the cap pads and moved your soldering iron tip over those video dimm sockets (until you put masking tape over them) ;)
HAHA! I need someone to slap my hand anytime I solder near SIMM slots without putting tape over them. And yeah, growing up everyone I knew said "sodder" too
How do you pronounce colder, folder and holder?
@@Okurka.How do you pronounce could, would or half?
Like MANY differences in pronunciation and word usage, Brits and Americans used to pronounce it the American way and then Brits changed their pronunciation later.
Perfect examples that show you can't try to make sense of the english language :)
You are doing an excellent job Adrian, I have watched a lot of your videos the past few years, and I haven’t seen one single thing that I thought of as wrong. On the comments, RUclips have a couple of times banned me for 24 hours for leaving normal comments without anything that should trigger the guidelines of the tube.
So much delicious content! I love that i have somebody talking to me while I eat food and watch electronics. :)
This is Great Info... I'm about ready to re-cap on my SE/30..
Thank you for the repeated details cap removal demonstration, I want to recap my Amiga 4000/040 and mostly that means those sorts of caps, so I'm very happy to have had the clear instructions. (I'm sure it's the "push down" part that's important and not doing that is probably why some people have bad experiences.)
I love to see any work you do, wether it's recapping or other repairs and/or mods especially on Amigas as that's the computer I grew up with. Apples and Machintosh were the computers I primarily used in school. Remember using 5 1/4 inch floppies to play The Oregon Trail. Never got very far 😂.
Hey Adrian! Excellent video as always. As for your question about why some leaky caps appear to cause more corrosion, if they leak and then continue to see powered use they'll corrode the board faster than if they leak and then are left powered off. The DC current going through the caps can "spread out" into the leaked fluid causes electrolysis of the board's materials and accelerates the decomposition process significantly. Your Centris board probably started to leak around the same time it stopped seeing regular use and got thrown into an attic for 15-20 years!
Having done numerous recaps myself using the twisting method, can confirm it works wonderfully.
Sometimes you have to use sidecutters to shear the ends of the legs after the capacitor is twisted off so that the little plastic stand can be freed from the board as well, but that's about it.
Static-free detailing brush can help get your neutraliser or isoprop into tight gaps between IC legs, as well as providing a gentle agitating - in combination with a qtip to mop up the slop seems helpful.
I agree that watching that cap removal intially pinged my "oh my god no" instinct. But as you demonstrate and your experience shows. Sometimes the best process does feel "wrong". We as people need to accept things that challenge or beliefs when there is sufficient evidence.
Thanks for the creator comments on comments, Adrian. Insightful.
Amazing Sassy video. You rock!🎉
Adrian, two things:
First, I will have you know I drove my wife bonkers as I was commenting at the screen trying to warn you about the rogue tantalums on the motherboard, as if you could hear me through the screen and in the past! 😂
Second, I love this and all your videos. They are relaxing and educational and have actually encouraged me to finally learn electronics and electronics repair specifically.
I recently completed a class at a local community college that taught me how to solder and inspect boards to professional certification standards. Armed with that training and confidence from watching your videos, I was able to diagnose and repair a faulty Bluetooth speaker I had been given. My first actual successful repair!
I would not have tried to learn and do if not for your videos making it look so easy. Thank you for all you do and your work preserving these vintage computers and electronics!
Using amtech flux while soldering or desoldering or even reflowing an SMD componet makes a great difference. Also using a metal/fiber brush with 99% IPA will help a lot. I learned a lot from your channel but Alex is doing good also in his YT channel NorthridgeFix. Thanks for everything you teach us.
I just finished bringing a Mac LC back to life, and recapping it. Similar situation, although I didn't twist the old caps off. I'm going to be using this method in future, thanks! Always trust what Mr. Carlson says :D
Whoehoee Adrian again :) :) Always looking forward to this.
Great topic!
Indeed the solder and chat works well, enjoyed the video. Have one of these myself. Some of the earlier 040 pizza boxes seemed faster. As for a scsi replacement a lot of attention seems to have moved away from what was previously called the rascsi. Pi based, and you need a fast one, but it is so useful if you have a large collection of machines to have one on a bench. You can transfer images and manage the unit via a web interface, so easy to swap out a cd image without rebooting, make images. Really would recommend.
Adrian generally fixes everything he works on. Not sure why people would complain about how you remove caps when you obviously know what you’re doing.
This is a good template for me to get my dad's old Quadra 660AV running again. A while ago I opened it up (and snapped off one of the clips that kept the case on) I really didn't know know what to do from there. I now feel more compelled to see if I can do some maintenance before I try booting it up
Loving the 'sassy' cap removal well explained and why.
"Quick" Test & try...
*Uploads 90 minute video*
I don't think Adrian knows what "Quick" and "Super Mini" mean anymore! 😝
Hahaha!! I started with the thought it would just be quick - -and then things "Devolved"
I both welcome and benefit from his confusion.
I fell in love with this case design in the 6th grade. My Middle School had the 6100/66 Power PC version which used an identical case design with the only major design change being the floppy drive was changed from auto to manual inject. It was my introduction to Mac and I have been addicted since. (Sadly my heart lies with OS9 and below, cannot find the same love connection with OSX) I had never before seen such a good looking computer compared to all the Dos/Windows machines at the time.
Fascinating to watch, especially in real time, rather than the usual sped up stuff. And, speaking as someone who lives in the country that the language is named after, it's Solder, not sodder. 🙂
I am in the middle of battle with mac lc II. They are not common in the my part of the world. I am learning how to use the OS. So the little things you did with HDD and system copy were very useful to me. Thanks!
Like long videos and like repair. Love your channel from Sweden 😊
Love it. I have a 660AV which has caddy CD drive and full set of video ports in the back.
My worst mistake was getting rid of my Quadra 605 FPU which was my first computer.
Don't let the haters get you down, Adrian!
Nice You have these things, wish everyone did. Good to be You...
Hi Adrian Love the channel , my only comment on the resolder is i use SMD solder paste as i find it produces a better solder puddle around the new component leads , but i have a precision fluid dispenser
I used to have one of those! Ran an external SCSI array with 9.1GB drives for it.
Mine came with a CDrom. Found it next to a dumpster.
Took me forever to find the AAUI adapter to get it on my home network.
At that point I had plenty of better computers to use so I ran Yellow Dog Linux on it.
Love watching your vids when I solder my DIY audio projects.
I always thought the small, Centris line was an interesting one. It's run was at a time when Apple had (IMHO) far too many lines running at the same time - many of which were near identical, overlapping models. The Centris 610 and 650's had hints of the earlier snow white design with its similar, yet sculpted floppy drive (sans lips), but not quite like the later Quadra's. They were quicker than the '030 models they helped replace, but not as fast as the '040 models that were introduced only a few months after the Centris' debut. I don't know why, but I've always had a soft spot for the Centris Mac's.
I wonder if the board you're talking about ruining because of the solder in the socket could be resurrected with some solder wick around a very sharp knife tip? There are tips with basically razor blades on the ends of them. Still might be too tight, but it was the first thing I thought of and probably what I would have tried if it happened to me.
Also, Vinegar. That will neutralize any of the corrosive cap juices (because they're alkaline) and the very mild acid of the vinegar will loosen it up, too. Let the vinegar sit for 15 or 20 minutes and then get a good, stiff toothbrush and scrub it. Should take the bulk of it off without damaging anything further. Clean as usual with soap/water/ipa and it should be good.
Also, also, the different cap types aren't just a manufacturing thing. There are different characteristics for electrolytics vs ceramic vs tantalum, etc. The engineers who designed the board would have known that and chose each type based on what the circuit was doing. Now, _in practice_ for applications that aren't super sensitive, you can get away with switching them like this. But just know that there is a difference in how they function that will affect the circuit in subtle ways.
Movie length Adrian,,,, Freakin' awesome !!!
Holy crap, my first mac was a Power Macintosh 6100, this computer brings back some memories... I, much later, bought an earlier 040 Mac in the same exact case, it must have been a centris. Because it was dated it was very inexpensive. I got it because I wanted to check out the Macs from an era I had just missed, It was a solid great machine and ran 7.x.x like a champ!!
I've had one of these in my loft for at least 15 years, and I've never turned it on. One day I'll take a look at it!
French Mac"s here are thanking you for the video. WE LOVE YOU
Thank you! Very entertaining video.
Only problem with MLCC's is that the capacity at the rated voltage is not what it says. Sometimes is is less than 50% of this so if you use them ever use 50V+ types for recapping 16V ones.
That, and while not necessarily applicable in this application cracking can be an issue for boards prone to experiencing vibrations or bending forces. As well as microphonics in some specific cases.
Oh! and if you happen to be using murata capacitors they have a wonderful web tool called simsurfing that lets you check the derated capacitance for any of their caps at the voltage, temperature and frequency you're using.
I don't know about cap leakage, but for 'elemental' damage I've had good luck with just IPA and a stiff bristle brush. I use a fresh 'surplus' weapon cleaning brush at work, and a denture brush at home. Worst case of green death due to rain caused me to have to break out the IPA and the fibreglass abrasive brush. Always try to avoid the metal myself, my luck would result in scratching a trace or breaking a leg. Always enjoy seeing things from my younger years running again, keep up the neat work.
*Electronics soldier and flux are not corrosive. Plumbing and gas-fitting soldier and flux are though. They are acid based, and electronic stuff isn't.
Ceramic caps can fail, but usually due to thermal/manufacturing defects. I believe the official reason is internal cracking of the layers due to flexing, since the internals are so thin.
And a blob of soldier is just a blob. A 'fillet' is the shape you want on the soldiered edges of SMDs, its the concave version of a radius.